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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 20, 1908)
HIE OREGON - SUNDAY JOURNAL,, PORTLAND, SUNDAY HORNING, SEPTEMBER r20. 1903 Gax D Fashions Will Permit a Startling 'Indulgence in lor Effects RIBSS FOR f X P SEEMED to have' stepped into Yff life from a colored fashion plate. x r ji is clothing- was immaculately new, freshly creased, and had the brand of the first-class tailor. Tfie cut of the garments was impeccable. But as hetwalked down the street men stopped to siare open-eyed, women gazed at him in astonishment,', and even chil dren manifested interest in Jhis attire. His suit was of at unclassified shade, breathing hues of purple add lines of orange, while his shirt, necktie, socks scarf pin, studs and cuff links were a harmony in purple, lavender and orange. ' . , No, he was not abroad tq advertise a . I Ml M-mmh M 1 mMmmm 1 Oirercoarf for yr'cr cpuarrry patent pill, nor was he a near-poet seeking to attract attention. He was merely an up-to-date dresser, who dared to be the first to don the loudest of the colorful harmonies in men's attire which will be the dominant keynote in men's fashions this fall and winter. hor color, more than during any previ ous season, will make men's fashions this fall and winter distinctive. New shades, new tones and new combinations will envelop him in the borrowed plumage of the bird of paradise. IN THEIR search for new colors the makers of fabrics for men have created shades entirely new and novel. Imitating; the brown of a Havana cigar and the color of wood, the but of the hide of elephants and the akin of mice. This season the soheme in color will call for har mony, even in the Jining of one'a suit. Originality seems the keynote of the combinations. Five years ago few men would have dreamed of wearing some of the materials they will doa the coming season If they follow fashion. However, the change Will doubtless be hailed by many with joy. For many men have become restive under the reign of sober raiment It required a wom an to voice their' resentment some years ago, when, in a lecture. Miss Agnes Repplier; the essayist, de clared that men In evening dress looked like an ag- ' gregatlon af rooks. "The modern garb of man," she declared, "Is hideous to the sight of any one gifts 1 with an artistio sens. In order to realise how completely he has deteriorated In respect to dress, one has only to turn to the figure paintings of the Vandyke period, or compare the dress of the modern man with the square-cut costs, the velvets and colored water silks, powdered wigs and dlamond-hllted swords of the period of Louts XV. Men of those days, at least, had some Idea of harmony of color, elegance in design and artistio completeness." WelL the pioneer baa cotne. At least. In' regard to color the stylishly dressed man of the fall and win ter will begin to meet Miss Reppllers requirements. He will jot wear colored water ailk trousers, to be sure, but he Is on tbs way the Innovations of the fall tii ay be regarded as being full of promise to the men -who like gay and colorful dress. m materials, woolens will come first, follows in popularity by worsted materials. Unfinished worsteds and those el a sazonr nmsa wiu meet with the combinations of woolens extremely well, will be Ik. wn ArmmMMA man KDDniTU. Crossbreds In materials, and worsteds, which wear l.mlt worn. Stripes will run riot In suitings, estlngs,bosiry shins and Ues for the small man the talior will pre cribe a design with a thin hair lip a, and for the big man a bold, broad stripe. Many nsw sad besatlfal brawns will be went They run from the lightest of geldea tsas to a dark tobacco brown.- A popular material will be a dark tea of unfinished worsted wtth purple strlpae. There will be new shades ia mocha, wood asd Havana browns. A combine tip a of gre-ea and brown will go. - Graye will run from lit M silver grays fo dark hues, blended with- divers ralabew colore. Ptrtpee of range, mauve, rl. porpia, I a reader, yellow, fclee and greea will skimmer tareegh these eoetly fabrtra What ill eppar suite wonderful are the ronbt aatloas ot vartawa celsrs. Tet these fabrics wiu act Men a featur. i .. . ; ' IP cloth, will elose with three buttons set quite law, It will be made With' a notch collar. - In the harmony' scheme of the fall ant winter dres the trimmings will plsy aa Important role. Tour lin ings must harmonise with the color scheme of the cloth. Silk will be mors used for linings than ever. Vfervellleus. will run ahead of, satin da china New woolens, coming In terra' cotta, olte; steel and other novel effects, will call for theso shades in lining. Sleeve linings will be fancy-oh, quite fancy. What natter If they are not seen? The gods of the sartorial world will dlotate that they shall ite,so. Their wod Is law. Like woolsns, linings will' oome mostly In stripes. . ., v " ,1 But the color scheme does not stup here. The over coat, you Imagine, Is plain and sober of hue by years of established custom. 'This season,' however, over coats will run to light color. Fancy materials will ha used. Bewildering, da nl In tr. colorful fabrics will prt valL They' will be made in light, tan' and darkt brown, In drab,' mouse, mocha, olive 'and green tint. They will carry out the color scheme of, the suit be neath, if you choose. ' , ;, .i ' With fancy coats, however, the old "eavrs, jer seys, meltons will be worn'; the old chinchilla of our forefathers will be revived, the ' weight decreased there will appear, too. shetlands, for which a great vogue Is predicted, and a rough cheviot with? faint -y-hf" 5Vtr trt 5vtf kpc'ec 7b ftr Shiror I Hi lit I .090000 xavQ&fj n II II ' 'IM I ftwod II I IS I XfeOCOO t00COZ,-O4l I! iFx l 77 3?&rA'. Eie 0e be Joud, none will be vulgar. They will be colorful, yes; but harmonious. Man this fail must be an artistic success If he fol lows bin tailor's advice. In style there is little that is radical. A four-button sack coat will be worn for ordinary wear. For a man averaging Ove feet seven incnea tne proper coat will measure thirty Inches. The edges will be single stitched and the vest pocket welted. Flaps will be made to go Inside and out on the side pockets. There will be a seven-Inch vent In the bck. Two buttona Will be worn on the cuff. Kven more popular will be a sack coat with three buttons. This coat will be marked by a full chest effect, being made two inches fuller at the chest than ordinarily. The waist will fit sleekly, giving a most dressy effect. Sleeves will be rather full, with a stitched cuff, off set with one button on each sleeve. The lapels will be long, with a ful' rolling effect. Coats will be slightly cut away at the bottom, and will be longer in the front than In the back. They will be two' Inches shorter than the spring coats. The double-breasted sack has fallen into innocuous desuetude. . This fall, however, it will experience a slight revival and quite. a number will be worn. This coat will be made an average tlength of thirty one inches, and will close with three buttons. The but tons will be set five Inches apart at the top. and taper to a distance of five inches at the bottom. This scheme will accentuate the waist line. Tile coat will be full at the chest, and the collar and lapel heavily designed.' Of medium proportions, the sleeves wlll.be finished with one button, made to button through, at the cuffs. Trousers will be made quite full about the hips and of medium fulness at the knees. There will be a slight suggestion of the peg top. A coat which, it is declared, will become popular is a dinner coat made of undressed worsted in blue. This will be of full length, measuring 29 Inches. The coat will be marked by a shawl roll and will close with one button. Trousers will be made of the same material and will' fit rather snugly. A Tuxedo in blue is a novelty, but not so much as the evening dress In gray or dark blue, which one may expect to see. A substitute for the sack coat will come In a single-breasted morning coat, marked by Its artistic and well-flttlns cut. The coat will be made with a long soft roll, and will average 85H Inches in length. The material will be quite fancy, and fancy .waistcoats will complete a natty, neat effect. These waistcoats will be sludge breasted, dosing with six buttons, and open ing moderately high. A diagonal worsted fabric will appear In a three liutton cutaway coat, made with a moderately wide lapel. For afternoon wear the proper garment will be the double-breasted frock coat, which will be made generally of undressed worsted. The average length will be forty-one Inches, the sleeve will be fairly full, the collar and lapel will be wide and faced with silk to the buttonhole, it will be built to close with three buttons. A radical departure will mark dress coatings. This will be the use of fancy weaves. Barathea will be quite popular, while fine twills will bs favored. Goods will be unfinished. "Everything will go in vestlngs this fall," recently declared a ruler of fashion. "Nothing can be too gay. The world has been ransacked by big concerns for fine and costly fabrics. Vests will be made of the) most ornate and luxurious silks from the Orient. Flannels of fine and rare designs from France will be popular. Other men, again, will favor a vest made of sealskin, perhaps deerskin from the North. Scottish knits will be worn." A regulation vest will be made single breasted, closing with stx buttons and enhanced by two pock eta raj ify liK ' ; 1 i mm$m I wl r;ji! It te!! f:i if Nl i ; rli , . .. ; ; . .i The collar Is optional. A double-breasted vest, with five buttons on each Side, wilt be made with a notch col lar. Another popular vest, made of extremely fancy. half-Inch stripes of the order of an Irish friese-s A novelty will be an English cheviot in light tan and, light gray, with faint contrasting plaids. j The prevailing- coat ; will be a double-bre.v.'te-l frock, closing with three" buttona The waist line iU be emphasized, and 'the skirts made of a generous ful-, ness. Popular, too, will be a double-breasted, box coat, made of striped or plain material, closing with, three buttona It will be forty-four lathes in length, with a generous collar. The shoulders will not be aa full as formerly and will be cut square. . An ulster with a military collar will be popular. All coals Willi be extremely full. Many will wear a velvet collar The raglan overcoat wilt return for the winter. But you have still your shirts, collars, ties) amt hosiery to get Ah, keep, the oqlor scheme in mindl Shirts will come with a stiff front, with patch bosom and cuffs of the same materials. They will be either striped or flowered, the body of the shirt. covered with hairline stripes of the same hue. Bodies of the shirts will also come in solid colors matching the designs oa the bosom and cuffs., " Btrlpes on a long blaa and flower designs will marie ties, unusually rich colors will prevail. Tour hosiery must match your tie, too, ' Wtth m flowered tie wear silk or silk lisle boss of the sama color, embroidered with flowers of" the same design and shade. Hosiery Will come in the 'same color ef fects as ties. - . . The proper collar for the fall and winter will be the turn-over, one-half Inch higher In ihe front than, In the back, with rounded poiats. . . During the early fall a low shoe wfll be worn, with a round tie and decorated tip. - Doe and buck -sklri glpves, of a tan, maroon effect, brown or gray, will be proper. Tour handkerchief, finally,, must match aolt, shirt, ties and hosiery. . . - The Newest Tilings in Hats Fbr Mfelv.,. A m , -v S mii-i mn i Hill t: - "itJ 1 !:! Shu' f&i tM til 77r Proper 77rirf 7r Jffi F Mr rtfre Abrefy- 7j 6rrres Zrtesf mra't beadwear ti4 prevailiri color in oft IiaU during the fall and winter will ba (rreeo. This is a'ceordins to tbfl best batten. Green will even color tba derby. The alpine bat, however, will be roost farored by -mart dressers. It will come in about ten different shade. DBCTDEDLT. the greea hat Is the greatest aov elty of many sea son a i Men have worm bats la black, brews, gray and evea blae bat aew It Is green. The greea hat baa bee a popular for the past sev- 77r e& Arr . era! seasons in London. Parts. Berlin and other Euro pean cities. It eomes la the alpine shape, of soft felt, and can be worn with the rim turned down on one side. A soft telescope bat la tea and gray will appear, bat betters doubt its popularity. Little change will mark the ahape of the derby bat. Brims will earl slightly more than last winter. Brims will rna from oe asd three-quarters to ens and evea -eighths aad possibly twe Inches la width. There will be extreme brims Measuring two and oae-quar-ter Inches. Lerbles win be Ave and one-quertsr to trs and one-half Inches In height. Caps will be extensively worn. English plaids alii become qnlte popular. It is believed, aad ran la vari ous eolora The site excaeds that of last wlntsr. In the line of silk bats will appear something new. This Is a hat with a flat brim. It will ba partienlarly favored by young- mea; it looks not ealy dressy, bat poasoeeee the piquant affect af novelty. Opera bats are gelsg dowa the tebogrea. batters declara Silk beta which are more areasy. will re place them largely. Tt bate will fc-e almost straight A weoiaJB eet brim wi'l be wrw by Mr folk, lists ill ras from five and gr-ghTr,e to ave aad serea-elgbUis laches la eVptn. Brtma will meaa- ara one aad three -quart ere to two fnehee la a I Jit. Well-drseasd folk, aathorltlee Inform you. k something distinctive. Their Idea Is la get snn,..' exclusive. The popularity af the opera l it, t,,- , elare, baa eheepened It la the eyee ef the yUpg who iom not eeunt the dllf be spr,,le t.u c Therefore the revival at the silk tat. Nutria bata which will api ar U' r'y. t popular fr many years In the H est. v tj t , for frosa II to tit 1 will wer f r ir it , , cleaned repMtd:y, and the : r it u batter It nfTM. Another io,ty In bst 's f tl I t . aad lar.rs ef e1er-ht trt;., ; black, stick is a dark trew-v.
