HIE OREGON - SUNDAY JOURNAL,, PORTLAND, SUNDAY HORNING, SEPTEMBER r20. 1903
Gax D
Fashions Will Permit a
Startling 'Indulgence in
lor Effects
RIBSS FOR
f X P SEEMED to have' stepped into
Yff life from a colored fashion plate.
x r ji is clothing- was immaculately
new, freshly creased, and had the brand of
the first-class tailor. Tfie cut of the garments
was impeccable. But as hetwalked down the
street men stopped to siare open-eyed, women
gazed at him in astonishment,', and even chil
dren manifested interest in Jhis attire.
His suit was of at unclassified shade,
breathing hues of purple add lines of orange,
while his shirt, necktie, socks scarf pin, studs
and cuff links were a harmony in purple,
lavender and orange. ' . ,
No, he was not abroad tq advertise a .
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Oirercoarf for yr'cr cpuarrry
patent pill, nor was he a near-poet seeking to
attract attention. He was merely an up-to-date
dresser, who dared to be the first to don
the loudest of the colorful harmonies in men's
attire which will be the dominant keynote in
men's fashions this fall and winter.
hor color, more than during any previ
ous season, will make men's fashions this fall
and winter distinctive. New shades, new
tones and new combinations will envelop him
in the borrowed plumage of the bird of
paradise.
IN THEIR search for new colors the makers of
fabrics for men have created shades entirely new
and novel. Imitating; the brown of a Havana
cigar and the color of wood, the but of the hide
of elephants and the akin of mice.
This season the soheme in color will call for har
mony, even in the Jining of one'a suit.
Originality seems the keynote of the combinations.
Five years ago few men would have dreamed of
wearing some of the materials they will doa the
coming season If they follow fashion.
However, the change Will doubtless be hailed by
many with joy. For many men have become restive
under the reign of sober raiment It required a wom
an to voice their' resentment some years ago, when,
in a lecture. Miss Agnes Repplier; the essayist, de
clared that men In evening dress looked like an ag- '
gregatlon af rooks.
"The modern garb of man," she declared, "Is hideous
to the sight of any one gifts 1 with an artistio sens.
In order to realise how completely he has deteriorated
In respect to dress, one has only to turn to the figure
paintings of the Vandyke period, or compare the dress
of the modern man with the square-cut costs, the
velvets and colored water silks, powdered wigs and
dlamond-hllted swords of the period of Louts XV. Men
of those days, at least, had some Idea of harmony of
color, elegance in design and artistio completeness."
WelL the pioneer baa cotne. At least. In' regard to
color the stylishly dressed man of the fall and win
ter will begin to meet Miss Reppllers requirements.
He will jot wear colored water ailk trousers, to be
sure, but he Is on tbs way the Innovations of the fall
tii ay be regarded as being full of promise to the men -who
like gay and colorful dress.
m materials, woolens will come first, follows in
popularity by worsted materials. Unfinished worsteds
and those el a sazonr nmsa wiu meet with the
combinations of woolens
extremely well, will be
Ik. wn
ArmmMMA man KDDniTU.
Crossbreds In materials,
and worsteds, which wear
l.mlt worn.
Stripes will run riot In suitings, estlngs,bosiry
shins and Ues for the small man the talior will pre
cribe a design with a thin hair lip a, and for the big
man a bold, broad stripe.
Many nsw sad besatlfal brawns will be went
They run from the lightest of geldea tsas to a dark
tobacco brown.- A popular material will be a dark tea
of unfinished worsted wtth purple strlpae.
There will be new shades ia mocha, wood asd
Havana browns. A combine tip a of gre-ea and brown
will go. -
Graye will run from lit M silver grays fo dark
hues, blended with- divers ralabew colore. Ptrtpee of
range, mauve, rl. porpia, I a reader, yellow, fclee
and greea will skimmer tareegh these eoetly fabrtra
What ill eppar suite wonderful are the ronbt
aatloas ot vartawa celsrs. Tet these fabrics wiu act
Men a featur.
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cloth, will elose with three buttons set quite law,
It will be made With' a notch collar.
- In the harmony' scheme of the fall ant winter dres
the trimmings will plsy aa Important role. Tour lin
ings must harmonise with the color scheme of the
cloth. Silk will be mors used for linings than ever.
Vfervellleus. will run ahead of, satin da china New
woolens, coming In terra' cotta, olte; steel and other
novel effects, will call for theso shades in lining.
Sleeve linings will be fancy-oh, quite fancy. What
natter If they are not seen? The gods of the sartorial
world will dlotate that they shall ite,so. Their wod
Is law. Like woolsns, linings will' oome mostly In
stripes. . ., v " ,1
But the color scheme does not stup here. The over
coat, you Imagine, Is plain and sober of hue by years
of established custom. 'This season,' however, over
coats will run to light color. Fancy materials will ha
used. Bewildering, da nl In tr. colorful fabrics will prt
valL They' will be made in light, tan' and darkt
brown, In drab,' mouse, mocha, olive 'and green tint.
They will carry out the color scheme of, the suit be
neath, if you choose. ' , ;, .i '
With fancy coats, however, the old "eavrs, jer
seys, meltons will be worn'; the old chinchilla of our
forefathers will be revived, the ' weight decreased
there will appear, too. shetlands, for which a great
vogue Is predicted, and a rough cheviot with? faint
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be Joud, none will be vulgar. They will be colorful,
yes; but harmonious.
Man this fail must be an artistic success If he fol
lows bin tailor's advice.
In style there is little that is radical. A four-button
sack coat will be worn for ordinary wear. For a
man averaging Ove feet seven incnea tne proper coat
will measure thirty Inches. The edges will be single
stitched and the vest pocket welted. Flaps will be
made to go Inside and out on the side pockets. There
will be a seven-Inch vent In the bck. Two buttona
Will be worn on the cuff.
Kven more popular will be a sack coat with three
buttons. This coat will be marked by a full chest
effect, being made two inches fuller at the chest than
ordinarily. The waist will fit sleekly, giving a most
dressy effect.
Sleeves will be rather full, with a stitched cuff, off
set with one button on each sleeve. The lapels will be
long, with a ful' rolling effect. Coats will be slightly
cut away at the bottom, and will be longer in the
front than In the back. They will be two' Inches
shorter than the spring coats.
The double-breasted sack has fallen into innocuous
desuetude. . This fall, however, it will experience a
slight revival and quite. a number will be worn.
This coat will be made an average tlength of thirty
one inches, and will close with three buttons. The but
tons will be set five Inches apart at the top. and taper
to a distance of five inches at the bottom. This scheme
will accentuate the waist line.
Tile coat will be full at the chest, and the collar
and lapel heavily designed.' Of medium proportions,
the sleeves wlll.be finished with one button, made to
button through, at the cuffs.
Trousers will be made quite full about the hips and
of medium fulness at the knees. There will be a
slight suggestion of the peg top.
A coat which, it is declared, will become popular
is a dinner coat made of undressed worsted in blue.
This will be of full length, measuring 29 Inches. The
coat will be marked by a shawl roll and will close
with one button. Trousers will be made of the same
material and will' fit rather snugly.
A Tuxedo in blue is a novelty, but not so much as
the evening dress In gray or dark blue, which one
may expect to see.
A substitute for the sack coat will come In a single-breasted
morning coat, marked by Its artistic and
well-flttlns cut. The coat will be made with a long
soft roll, and will average 85H Inches in length. The
material will be quite fancy, and fancy .waistcoats will
complete a natty, neat effect. These waistcoats will
be sludge breasted, dosing with six buttons, and open
ing moderately high.
A diagonal worsted fabric will appear In a three
liutton cutaway coat, made with a moderately wide
lapel. For afternoon wear the proper garment will be
the double-breasted frock coat, which will be made
generally of undressed worsted. The average length
will be forty-one Inches, the sleeve will be fairly full,
the collar and lapel will be wide and faced with silk
to the buttonhole, it will be built to close with three
buttons.
A radical departure will mark dress coatings. This
will be the use of fancy weaves. Barathea will be
quite popular, while fine twills will bs favored. Goods
will be unfinished.
"Everything will go in vestlngs this fall," recently
declared a ruler of fashion. "Nothing can be too gay.
The world has been ransacked by big concerns for
fine and costly fabrics. Vests will be made of the)
most ornate and luxurious silks from the Orient.
Flannels of fine and rare designs from France will be
popular. Other men, again, will favor a vest made of
sealskin, perhaps deerskin from the North. Scottish
knits will be worn."
A regulation vest will be made single breasted,
closing with stx buttons and enhanced by two pock eta
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The collar Is optional. A double-breasted vest, with five
buttons on each Side, wilt be made with a notch col
lar. Another popular vest, made of extremely fancy.
half-Inch stripes of the order of an Irish friese-s A
novelty will be an English cheviot in light tan and,
light gray, with faint contrasting plaids. j
The prevailing- coat ; will be a double-bre.v.'te-l
frock, closing with three" buttona The waist line iU
be emphasized, and 'the skirts made of a generous ful-,
ness. Popular, too, will be a double-breasted, box
coat, made of striped or plain material, closing with,
three buttona It will be forty-four lathes in length,
with a generous collar. The shoulders will not be aa
full as formerly and will be cut square. . An ulster
with a military collar will be popular. All coals Willi
be extremely full. Many will wear a velvet collar
The raglan overcoat wilt return for the winter.
But you have still your shirts, collars, ties) amt
hosiery to get Ah, keep, the oqlor scheme in mindl
Shirts will come with a stiff front, with patch bosom
and cuffs of the same materials. They will be either
striped or flowered, the body of the shirt. covered with
hairline stripes of the same hue. Bodies of the shirts
will also come in solid colors matching the designs oa
the bosom and cuffs., "
Btrlpes on a long blaa and flower designs will marie
ties, unusually rich colors will prevail.
Tour hosiery must match your tie, too, ' Wtth m
flowered tie wear silk or silk lisle boss of the sama
color, embroidered with flowers of" the same design
and shade. Hosiery Will come in the 'same color ef
fects as ties. - . .
The proper collar for the fall and winter will be
the turn-over, one-half Inch higher In ihe front than,
In the back, with rounded poiats. . .
During the early fall a low shoe wfll be worn, with
a round tie and decorated tip. - Doe and buck -sklri
glpves, of a tan, maroon effect, brown or gray, will
be proper. Tour handkerchief, finally,, must match
aolt, shirt, ties and hosiery. . . -
The Newest Tilings in Hats Fbr Mfelv.,.
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mra't beadwear ti4 prevailiri color in
oft IiaU during the fall and winter will
ba (rreeo.
This is a'ceordins to tbfl best batten.
Green will even color tba derby. The alpine bat,
however, will be roost farored by -mart dressers.
It will come in about ten different shade.
DBCTDEDLT. the greea hat Is the greatest aov
elty of many sea son a
i Men have worm bats la black, brews, gray
and evea blae bat aew It Is green.
The greea hat baa bee a popular for the past sev-
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era! seasons in London. Parts. Berlin and other Euro
pean cities. It eomes la the alpine shape, of soft felt,
and can be worn with the rim turned down on one
side.
A soft telescope bat la tea and gray will appear,
bat betters doubt its popularity.
Little change will mark the ahape of the derby
bat. Brims will earl slightly more than last winter.
Brims will rna from oe asd three-quarters to ens and
evea -eighths aad possibly twe Inches la width. There
will be extreme brims Measuring two and oae-quar-ter
Inches.
Lerbles win be Ave and one-quertsr to trs and
one-half Inches In height.
Caps will be extensively worn. English plaids alii
become qnlte popular. It is believed, aad ran la vari
ous eolora The site excaeds that of last wlntsr.
In the line of silk bats will appear something new.
This Is a hat with a flat brim. It will ba partienlarly
favored by young- mea; it looks not ealy dressy, bat
poasoeeee the piquant affect af novelty.
Opera bats are gelsg dowa the tebogrea. batters
declara Silk beta which are more areasy. will re
place them largely. Tt bate will fc-e almost
straight A weoiaJB eet brim wi'l be wrw by Mr
folk, lists ill ras from five and gr-ghTr,e to ave
aad serea-elgbUis laches la eVptn. Brtma will meaa-
ara one aad three -quart ere to two fnehee la a I Jit.
Well-drseasd folk, aathorltlee Inform you. k
something distinctive. Their Idea Is la get snn,..'
exclusive. The popularity af the opera l it, t,,- ,
elare, baa eheepened It la the eyee ef the yUpg
who iom not eeunt the dllf be spr,,le t.u c
Therefore the revival at the silk tat.
Nutria bata which will api ar U' r'y. t
popular fr many years In the H est. v tj t ,
for frosa II to tit 1 will wer f r ir it , ,
cleaned repMtd:y, and the : r it u
batter It nfTM.
Another io,ty In bst 's f tl I t .
aad lar.rs ef e1er-ht trt;., ;
black, stick is a dark trew-v.