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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (April 4, 1908)
THIS OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL 6RTL"AKd7"SUNDAV ; MORNING, -AiPRlLX'"JW Iiftiilii Ml rv7fcm 1 he xiLppaJJinq lluost 1 or ' average woman'i coiffure. The puffs 1 SjC Jv . r fS are "extra hair" you must no longer I ' r VvrJv r- . I ti ' "false' the heavy braid vou :id- 7 '"r fT i , mire, will moat likely spend the night X . . y on matlame s dressing table., the coquet- S .'A f I . 1 tlsh Utile curia are attached to hair- X 1 sSi I X ?ln" and "tuck Only the poropa- if i ? X dour and the hair turned up at the S T 1 Nr- 1 . a a siaes ana dack can sareiv Da riiniHni r J 1 XJ ; ; w omen s raise riair ' . '.. - . , ; . . :' " v ... ,.m. ......... . , - , How Lond Will It Be Before A mericau Women Are Wearing Vigs? Tke Englisli "Bun" anci Gre-,r cian Knot Figktmg for the Place of Honor in tke New Hairdressmg. Tke Size of tke Enormous Coiffure Skows No Signs of Growing Smaller y In the city can afford to do without The duat of the city atreet and the constant drylnr of the hair by hot ourl Int Iron aoon (tela the hair Into a de plorabla condition If aomtothlnK la not dona to counteract theae oondltiona. Kroin tl to 13 a treatment is charged by experienced persoiui, and at leant one treatment a week Is required. Ho we aeo that women's "crown of a"lory" be comes a ffolden crown If not In color, then lnisTrt. At -Hie beflnnina; of the winter aeaaon there aeetned hope that the coming months would show a decrease in the - ! of coiffures. But Instead of Vhelr Trowing smaller (ha width and height were only shifted from one part of the head to another, changing the outline, but leaving the alia of the head prac tically the same. Today the hair Is be ing done lower on the head at the back, slowing the puffs and curls to be seen under the brim of the hat The hair is brought back softly from the forehead In long, loose waves, quite unlike the atlff marceling which made such scare crows of woman for some time a year or so ago. .'" r.nmisn nun" is with ti: There Is no denying It. By what secret way It has crept Into the country I can not say, but here It is. The bun, the Jov of our caricatures, the target for our wit, being actually worn by smart American women? Even so. Jarre and unmistakable, H has made Its appear ance during the daylight hours, in the arrangement of hair fqr the evening the nieek Influence makes itself felt The hair Is drawn softly back to the crown of the head, where It ends in a frankly Ureclan knot. Occasionally a part In the pompadour Is seen. Sometimes the hair Is parted at OB side and, much wared. Is draws Into a knot at the crown of the head In a manner made familiar by. the "Mills Twins" on opera nights this sea son In New York. If you are not blessed with a maid, nor are you able Xo pay constant visits to the hairdressers, than you must learn by dint of much experimenting before your mirror to "do" your hair yourself. Or If time le an object perhaps one visit to the hairdresser will point out the way to a successful Imitation of his methods, although you will probe blv find a more becoming outline If you study the thing out for yourself. riit-modue operandi Is usually about the same as to the first steps of arrang ing the coiffure. In adding the extra hair puffs, switch, braid and curls. Is the Individuality of effect gained. The hair, after being loosely waved. Is Dart ed In a circle around the head, part be ing allowed to hang around the face and the other pert drawn up to tha top or me neao. me rat ' is then pinned on snd the hslr which has been hanging down Is drawn up loosely yet firmlv over It and pinned In a knot oa top of ine nean, or towara me crown. U.yeu are going in for Ureclan effect. Then cornea the Important adding of the hair In the shape of puffs and colla. This Is something which cannot he done ny ruie. r;acn woman must find out ror nerseir the most becoming outline. The same Is true of combs. The shape of sosne heads they nrnch Improve! to others they give too flattening an ef- IOC1. A new fad Is of having a whole set of extra hair rlc for evening wear several shades lighter than that worn during the cold light of day. Hair la apt to appear darker under artificial ugni, nence mis acneme. T f HERB is no doubt about It the spring hats are mere accessories to the spring coiffures. With hats growing smaller and smaller and the erection of puffs and braids and curls growing largerand larger, the Importance of hats as part -now only a part of the head dress ' rapidly diminishes. . The hair dressing of today It is "an awesome thing." Waves ripple against waves, puffa are piled airily ona on an other, heavy braids bind them all to gether, while little curls bob out of the unfilled chinks. . The question naturally suggests lt elf, When will femininity take to wlgsT 1 That It la not remote possibility will be conceded by anyone who gives this important matter a few. minutes , thought - Already there la little hair "grown en the premises" to be seen In the average woman's coiffure. The puffs are "extra hair" you must no longer say "false' the heavy braid vou ad mire, will moat likely spend the night on maiiame s dressing table, the coquet tish Utile curia are attached to halr- Slns and stuck in. Only the pompa our and the hair turned up at the sides and back can safely be guessed as belonging by right of nsture and not cash to the owner. Even then you may sometimes be disappointed, for "trans formations" have come to us from over the water and are being worn by many American women, who thus save their hair the constant waving by hot irons that fashion demands. When anywhere from $5 to t!00 worth of hair la massed on a woman's long-suffering head. Ih pinned and un pinned, arranged and rearrnnftcd sev eral times a day. Isn't it quite within the bounds of possibility to helleve that she will grow tired of this long hefoie the fashion of elaborate coiffures wanes? It would be so much easier to have, the business done, say, once a week. That would be all the hair drepulng a wig would require. And afl for deceiv ing people who on earth Is guileless enough to believe that women actually grow the masses Of hair built onto their heads? Oh, yes;1t wouldn't be at all surpris ing to find wigs become suddenly the fashion. And really, common sense would quite commend them. The item of hair dressing makes an impressive show in the total of the fashionable woman's expenses today Of course, if she be a dame of sufficient means to employ a maid, the services of a hairdresser can be dispensed with, hut that is really only a small part of the cost of that shining head of hers. For no Hitch tower can be erected with out bricks and mortar. In other words, "rats," "transformations." puffs, braids, curls and hot Irons all go to the mnklne of modern coiffures and these things (out money! "Rats" are not especially expensive, their cost running from 26 cents to $2 for ones of hair. Krectlons of wire, which were for a while used instead of the "rat" of hair, did not prove a success, ;i the harshness of the wire was found to Injure the hair roots. Even hairdressers do not claim any health fulncss for the hair in the use of "rats," all. the least injurious toman braids are still much worn by those women who like low, broad effects In hair dressing. They can be obtained at prices ranging up to t7t. according to the color of the hair. White hair Is by far the most costly. Puffs may be bought as low as S3 the set. but the people who are at all particular about knowing the "how and why" of thing will prefer to go to a reliable estab lishment where they will be obliged to pay f'orrt VI to $R per puff- Sometime as may as IS puffs can be counted on one head. Ko figure for yourself the expense of that! A "dear little head sunning over with curia" la not today the simple thing of nature which I Imagine the poet had In mind when he wrote that verse. And I might add. en passant, that Krench hair saying that they are only the lesser dressers now advertise wigs of flowing or two evils. The width and height curls for very little children. Horrible of the present fashionable coiffure Is thought! But for curls to bob in sweet Impossible to obtain without the under waywardness on one's own head you structure of a "rat" or else by vigorous may safely add from $10 to $15. If they "ruffing" or "hack-combing" of the nat- are bought at a first-class shop, ural hair a thing quite fatal to Its gome ' women think they require the growth. Bo, you see, the "rat" is, after .ttn,inn nC . hntr-dresaer averv dav. ' " while others are content to go to hlni 1 1 lJ OLLlJVlj i L II IN L liMU jrvK ihop If .man is sent to your home A Hair Must Be Arranged to Suit 8 THE, Frenchwoman uses mora charge of the work. eT. mrA mnu XalntlW trtmnd jnigm nave jeiiers A " " " letter representini underwear man no nor Sometimes other countries, French launder ing has coma to be recognised as the highest oett reached by that useful art A Thus one worker O, Z. E. V. R, each ig a different rami v. small letters, or small I .fi lers witn llgures attached, are used. As She receives the washing each worker sorts it again, putting such thinga as flannels and woolen goods aside. While ri ft.nrt tt.trli llnun a fa " A typical laundry in any large French separate. Dainty trimmed articles and lr at onea reveals to the visitor ute iacea are aiso piacea Dy tnemseives. hk ecrets of the fine results they produce. Whenever possible, clothea are dried In the ren air. Bach woman has sole vharra of a certain number of lots about rive famines; hae regular customers week by week, so steeped '-'. tnat It is to ner own inirei iy uu uci beat, alnca if there is fault found it ould be ahe alone who would be blamed. Likewise with those who iron and polish. 'Generally the washer and irener of certain lots work in conjunc tion, sharing the profits or commissions. These depend, too, upon the amount of tha work, as well aa the quality of the work done.' Everything ' first passes through the ' hands of the sorters and checkers, who nter the number of articles under the headlnsr of certain letters, which letter,! are lso given to the women who take also the colored articles. Each worker has three tubs, which are kept scrupu lously clean, and although bed and body linen are washed totether, all table linen is washed separately. All white garments are carefnllv hours before washing clear, cold water. 8oap or soda are not used, as It Is held that soap, if put in with white things, turns the linen a lv.1 color, while soda is much worse. Dirtv towels are, However, steeped In soapv water, and all stained portion;: well rubbed beforehand. Such things as window curtains am well shaken before being steeped, to get rid of the dust. All articles which have been stfveped are now placed In clear, lukewarm water and rinsed again to loosen the dirt. No soap la used, and the water is only Just warm. Soap is now rubbed over the wet gar ments, and they arc, plunged into hot water and rubbed carefully by hand, no boards being used. The articles now wrung out are rinsed in warm water several times, a great deal of trouble being expended over this portion of labor. Each article is rinsed until the water in the last stage is quite clear. A copper or boiling tank Is used by every five women, but in order to avoid confusion each woman places her arti cles in a bag numbered with her special letter, each bag having three holes in it, this preventing the bag floating. Shreded soap is placed in the boiling water, a certain amount being allowed td each tank. . Tli" bags of clothes are then lifteM nut Into larpe traps half full of tepid water, rinsed again several times, and finally given a rinsing in cold water. Rlulng is a very important process re Miilring great care. Each article Is taken separately and dlpoed loosely in the water, rinsing it carefully, and then Immediately wrung out very lightly and shaken. Hefor hanging out to dry all articles are well whaken and examined. Then, If an; spots or stains are seen they are taken Indoors and specially treated. the cost la double. Hair treatment of some kind or other Is a thing which very few women living SSXS2SF& HOURS f BUSINESS ARE NOT Your Own By John Anderson Jayne coming. B Bunches of Curls Are Sometime Attached to Combs. C This Udy Holds in Her Hand an Entire Coiffure. . ' " the Pompadour. J H 'Empire Curls. Roman Braid. v f IPS J Forehead Curls. ' L K Transformation n L I, iii i 1 lim ' 1 1 '"i 'I li'm r iliii 1 'i i j hi ' -i i':is-' Him ! torritr-i1"!"-" s: F i ROM a "newsy" on the atreet to the presidency of a large corpora tion Is not a bad. record for any man to point to. If that record be a record of honesty and fair' D This Shows the Effect of the Hair dealing all along tha line, more's the Pieces Seen in "C" When Arranged honor, due its owner, on th Head, Walk up and down the streets of a ' flty, taking special notice pf the names E A Novel French Theatre Head of -men that appear on the sign boarda Dress. they regard as infallible rfilea leading to success, and wondering how this par ticular man had worked bis rule. In quiry was made among the man's for mer friends. What follows is, in part, their testimony: "He worked a If he really enjoyed his work," "He was always on time: In fact, he made 1t hts boast that for years fie was the first to arrive and the last to leave tho, store," "He attended strictly to his own bus- over the tttACAU, flat In ' tnunh with IneSS. and never Went radflins- irnnnil , some old resldenter and let him tell you "He worked systematically ener t F Curls Arranged on Comb All tory of the rise and the progress ,Jcally, and took, or seemed to taka a Ready for Adjustment of ""any of the men whose names- you srt Interest in the business." ' are looking at on the sign boards. You w hl" frora Z"!. G-A Hair Frame for Wear Under wm b ""-prised to knJw how many 5T,p of emloyTto employe? t hitman nr innm nnva rinn rrrm t n aa nun n r nnw rwin tr TircwiinmTT a nna nr tha hi.h. the "newsy." 'Uei, lwa'8 Pld strict attention V One of these men, the story of whose him " ' -.7 a tru" life reads like a fairy tale, is to hold our aiieiuion louay. jkis rainar was a carpenter, a good workman, but. like These testimonials from Itvlnr man relative to a livlna man are vnJiiahiM. They are net epitaphs on a tomb atones Bk wia n ui aiiiBII. 1IUL. IIHH ' m " somo others of his trade, a hard drinker. J nB7. no1 ,Iu.ner5.V eu'Kes. over a His mother was a godly, righteous sort ?d an a casket.- They are the eam nt Mman whn iui,,.. ir. ...... est expressions or sane. ennrirAtln tnan hard for her, died at an early age. With relatl'he, t0 a sane and n1f,r!tlc min- ne nome oroaen Dy tne aeatn or; ms ;i.; ,.t. . ' v1"11" L-An Uo.to.Date Grecian Co!ffnr mother, tha boy was practically thrown Jl,LHfd harmonlousi conspiracy. The i n up-to-uate urectan coinure, out on the streets at a tender age to . V" ,Dee"l, tn, elevation of the j ;' earn his own living. His first woak a" . i elevation in the business . . uiiiino. nano.a 71 World and In the estimation re hia his age, he could find no one who would tji " ' c give him regular employment. r - His motto Is a good one for ybunj His first regular position was With a I"n tn;nk bout- Boiled down' for prominent furniture dealer, who made' SV thought of young men, it says, him his hostler. From that he rose to Your hours of business are not your be the owner and proud possessor of a ow, " ' . , , , horse and delivery wagon. At tha age l means that a young- man to suv of 24 he took a course in bookkeeping, 'ceed, must consider himself last and his afterwards finding a position as ship- employers interests first. He must not ping clerk - with a larfe . house, with e ev" on the "J11 " Wa which he remained In ever increasing thoughts on his pay envelope. For the responsibile positions until the concern. "'"P WUV mranmy, intelligently, 1 1 went out of business and" persistently, the hands of the clo?k M Fojlowipg this he took a position aa wiu Ma r0un,?. -ulc,t ough, and his payH auanor witn a targe corporation, re- ',k jwii. nono-s malnlng there until he found hla way !m 1" tn world to those who jj slear to purchase enough atock In Htt ""rve them in the long run. Success embryonic corporation Just starting in crowns the effort of him who Is willing business to give him a word of authoH- i wor fr wait for It, and watea ty in tne conduct or its affairs, - with ,1Vrf4k' the passage of the years he rose hlghnr - and still higher, until now the eorporo ' tlen ha1 changed Its nam and his name v is now the first on, tha sign ; boards.1 : bill and letter heads. -.. . ; Just the other day he was asked ta :3' give in a sentence .the secret of hl4 success. ThU was his reply: "When -first went to work for another man 1 realised that my hours were - not . my' , own. that , they belonged t ray, em : ployer.' - ' ' - -- . Knowing mm mmy so eiiwn suueess- ful, business man have ptt mottoes that point. ' From tha American Wine Press. : t There f 4 fooyatnant among1 spms the graduates of" tha : German univer sities . to abolish , compulsory drlnktnf by memoers of tha Student -corhs.' A present no -one Is. admitted -io'thesa's-w ; clettes if he b an ahstaiher, and- whert students are initiated they are required: to drink almost to . the lutoxicat-ioa i.r-
