THIS OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL 6RTL"AKd7"SUNDAV ; MORNING, -AiPRlLX'"JW
Iiftiilii Ml
rv7fcm 1 he xiLppaJJinq lluost 1 or
'
average woman'i coiffure. The puffs 1 SjC Jv . r
fS are "extra hair" you must no longer I ' r VvrJv r- .
I ti ' "false' the heavy braid vou :id- 7 '"r fT i
, mire, will moat likely spend the night X . . y
on matlame s dressing table., the coquet- S .'A f
I . 1 tlsh Utile curia are attached to hair- X 1 sSi
I X ?ln" and "tuck Only the poropa- if i ?
X dour and the hair turned up at the S T 1 Nr- 1
. a a siaes ana dack can sareiv Da riiniHni r J
1 XJ
; ; w omen s raise riair
' . '.. - . , ; . . :' " v ... ,.m. ......... . , - ,
How Lond Will It Be Before A mericau Women
Are Wearing Vigs? Tke Englisli "Bun" anci Gre-,r
cian Knot Figktmg for the Place of Honor in tke
New Hairdressmg. Tke Size of tke Enormous
Coiffure Skows No Signs of Growing Smaller y
In the city can afford to do without
The duat of the city atreet and the
constant drylnr of the hair by hot ourl
Int Iron aoon (tela the hair Into a de
plorabla condition If aomtothlnK la not
dona to counteract theae oondltiona.
Kroin tl to 13 a treatment is charged
by experienced persoiui, and at leant one
treatment a week Is required. Ho we
aeo that women's "crown of a"lory" be
comes a ffolden crown If not In color,
then lnisTrt.
At -Hie beflnnina; of the winter aeaaon
there aeetned hope that the coming
months would show a decrease in the
- ! of coiffures. But Instead of Vhelr
Trowing smaller (ha width and height
were only shifted from one part of the
head to another, changing the outline,
but leaving the alia of the head prac
tically the same. Today the hair Is be
ing done lower on the head at the back,
slowing the puffs and curls to be seen
under the brim of the hat The hair is
brought back softly from the forehead
In long, loose waves, quite unlike the
atlff marceling which made such scare
crows of woman for some time a year
or so ago.
.'" r.nmisn nun" is with ti:
There Is no denying It. By what secret
way It has crept Into the country I can
not say, but here It is. The bun, the
Jov of our caricatures, the target for
our wit, being actually worn by smart
American women? Even so. Jarre and
unmistakable, H has made Its appear
ance during the daylight hours, in the
arrangement of hair fqr the evening
the nieek Influence makes itself felt
The hair Is drawn softly back to the
crown of the head, where It ends in a
frankly Ureclan knot.
Occasionally a part In the pompadour
Is seen. Sometimes the hair Is parted
at OB side and, much wared. Is draws
Into a knot at the crown of the head
In a manner made familiar by. the
"Mills Twins" on opera nights this sea
son In New York.
If you are not blessed with a maid,
nor are you able Xo pay constant visits
to the hairdressers, than you must learn
by dint of much experimenting before
your mirror to "do" your hair yourself.
Or If time le an object perhaps one
visit to the hairdresser will point out
the way to a successful Imitation of
his methods, although you will probe
blv find a more becoming outline If
you study the thing out for yourself.
riit-modue operandi Is usually about
the same as to the first steps of arrang
ing the coiffure. In adding the extra
hair puffs, switch, braid and curls. Is
the Individuality of effect gained. The
hair, after being loosely waved. Is Dart
ed In a circle around the head, part be
ing allowed to hang around the face
and the other pert drawn up to tha top
or me neao. me rat ' is then pinned
on snd the hslr which has been hanging
down Is drawn up loosely yet firmlv
over It and pinned In a knot oa top of
ine nean, or towara me crown. U.yeu
are going in for Ureclan effect.
Then cornea the Important adding of
the hair In the shape of puffs and colla.
This Is something which cannot he done
ny ruie. r;acn woman must find out
ror nerseir the most becoming outline.
The same Is true of combs. The shape
of sosne heads they nrnch Improve! to
others they give too flattening an ef-
IOC1.
A new fad Is of having a whole set
of extra hair rlc for evening wear
several shades lighter than that worn
during the cold light of day. Hair la
apt to appear darker under artificial
ugni, nence mis acneme.
T
f HERB is no doubt about It the
spring hats are mere accessories
to the spring coiffures.
With hats growing smaller and
smaller and the erection of puffs
and braids and curls growing largerand
larger, the Importance of hats as part
-now only a part of the head dress
' rapidly diminishes. .
The hair dressing of today It is "an
awesome thing." Waves ripple against
waves, puffa are piled airily ona on an
other, heavy braids bind them all to
gether, while little curls bob out of the
unfilled chinks. .
The question naturally suggests lt
elf, When will femininity take to wlgsT
1 That It la not remote possibility
will be conceded by anyone who gives
this important matter a few. minutes
, thought
- Already there la little hair "grown
en the premises" to be seen In the
average woman's coiffure. The puffs
are "extra hair" you must no longer
say "false' the heavy braid vou ad
mire, will moat likely spend the night
on maiiame s dressing table, the coquet
tish Utile curia are attached to halr-
Slns and stuck in. Only the pompa
our and the hair turned up at the
sides and back can safely be guessed
as belonging by right of nsture and not
cash to the owner. Even then you may
sometimes be disappointed, for "trans
formations" have come to us from over
the water and are being worn by many
American women, who thus save their
hair the constant waving by hot irons
that fashion demands.
When anywhere from $5 to t!00
worth of hair la massed on a woman's
long-suffering head. Ih pinned and un
pinned, arranged and rearrnnftcd sev
eral times a day. Isn't it quite within
the bounds of possibility to helleve that
she will grow tired of this long hefoie
the fashion of elaborate coiffures
wanes?
It would be so much easier to have,
the business done, say, once a week.
That would be all the hair drepulng a
wig would require. And afl for deceiv
ing people who on earth Is guileless
enough to believe that women actually
grow the masses Of hair built onto their
heads?
Oh, yes;1t wouldn't be at all surpris
ing to find wigs become suddenly the
fashion. And really, common sense
would quite commend them.
The item of hair dressing makes an
impressive show in the total of the
fashionable woman's expenses today Of
course, if she be a dame of sufficient
means to employ a maid, the services
of a hairdresser can be dispensed with,
hut that is really only a small part of
the cost of that shining head of hers.
For no Hitch tower can be erected with
out bricks and mortar. In other words,
"rats," "transformations." puffs, braids,
curls and hot Irons all go to the mnklne
of modern coiffures and these things
(out money!
"Rats" are not especially expensive,
their cost running from 26 cents to $2
for ones of hair. Krectlons of wire,
which were for a while used instead
of the "rat" of hair, did not prove a
success, ;i the harshness of the wire
was found to Injure the hair roots. Even
hairdressers do not claim any health
fulncss for the hair in the use of "rats,"
all. the least injurious
toman braids are still much worn by
those women who like low, broad effects
In hair dressing. They can be obtained
at prices ranging up to t7t. according
to the color of the hair. White hair Is
by far the most costly. Puffs may be
bought as low as S3 the set. but the
people who are at all particular about
knowing the "how and why" of thing
will prefer to go to a reliable estab
lishment where they will be obliged to
pay f'orrt VI to $R per puff- Sometime
as may as IS puffs can be counted on
one head. Ko figure for yourself the
expense of that!
A "dear little head sunning over with
curia" la not today the simple thing of
nature which I Imagine the poet had In
mind when he wrote that verse. And I
might add. en passant, that Krench hair
saying that they are only the lesser dressers now advertise wigs of flowing
or two evils. The width and height curls for very little children. Horrible
of the present fashionable coiffure Is thought! But for curls to bob in sweet
Impossible to obtain without the under waywardness on one's own head you
structure of a "rat" or else by vigorous may safely add from $10 to $15. If they
"ruffing" or "hack-combing" of the nat- are bought at a first-class shop,
ural hair a thing quite fatal to Its gome ' women think they require the
growth. Bo, you see, the "rat" is, after .ttn,inn nC . hntr-dresaer averv dav.
' " while others are content to go to hlni
1 1 lJ OLLlJVlj i L II IN L liMU jrvK ihop If .man is sent to your home
A Hair Must Be Arranged to Suit
8 THE, Frenchwoman uses mora charge of the work.
eT. mrA mnu XalntlW trtmnd jnigm nave jeiiers A
" " " letter representini
underwear man no nor Sometimes
other countries, French launder
ing has coma to be recognised as
the highest oett reached by that useful
art
A
Thus one worker
O, Z. E. V. R, each
ig a different rami v.
small letters, or small I .fi
lers witn llgures attached, are used.
As She receives the washing each
worker sorts it again, putting such
thinga as flannels and woolen goods
aside. While ri ft.nrt tt.trli llnun a fa
" A typical laundry in any large French separate. Dainty trimmed articles and
lr at onea reveals to the visitor ute iacea are aiso piacea Dy tnemseives. hk
ecrets of the fine results they produce.
Whenever possible, clothea are dried
In the ren air. Bach woman has sole
vharra of a certain number of lots
about rive famines;
hae regular customers week by week, so steeped
'-'. tnat It is to ner own inirei iy uu uci
beat, alnca if there is fault found it
ould be ahe alone who would be
blamed. Likewise with those who iron
and polish. 'Generally the washer and
irener of certain lots work in conjunc
tion, sharing the profits or commissions.
These depend, too, upon the amount of
tha work, as well aa the quality of the
work done.'
Everything ' first passes through the
' hands of the sorters and checkers, who
nter the number of articles under the
headlnsr of certain letters, which letter,!
are lso given to the women who take
also the colored articles. Each worker
has three tubs, which are kept scrupu
lously clean, and although bed and body
linen are washed totether, all table linen
is washed separately.
All white garments are carefnllv
hours before washing
clear, cold water. 8oap or soda are not
used, as It Is held that soap, if put in
with white things, turns the linen a lv.1
color, while soda is much worse. Dirtv
towels are, However, steeped In soapv
water, and all stained portion;: well
rubbed beforehand.
Such things as window curtains am
well shaken before being steeped, to
get rid of the dust.
All articles which have been stfveped
are now placed In clear, lukewarm
water and rinsed again to loosen the
dirt. No soap la used, and the water
is only Just warm.
Soap is now rubbed over the wet gar
ments, and they arc, plunged into hot
water and rubbed carefully by hand, no
boards being used.
The articles now wrung out are rinsed
in warm water several times, a great
deal of trouble being expended over this
portion of labor. Each article is rinsed
until the water in the last stage is quite
clear.
A copper or boiling tank Is used by
every five women, but in order to avoid
confusion each woman places her arti
cles in a bag numbered with her special
letter, each bag having three holes in
it, this preventing the bag floating.
Shreded soap is placed in the boiling
water, a certain amount being allowed
td each tank. .
Tli" bags of clothes are then lifteM
nut Into larpe traps half full of tepid
water, rinsed again several times, and
finally given a rinsing in cold water.
Rlulng is a very important process re
Miilring great care. Each article Is
taken separately and dlpoed loosely in
the water, rinsing it carefully, and then
Immediately wrung out very lightly and
shaken.
Hefor hanging out to dry all articles
are well whaken and examined. Then,
If an; spots or stains are seen they are
taken Indoors and specially treated.
the cost la double.
Hair treatment of some kind or other
Is a thing which very few women living
SSXS2SF& HOURS f BUSINESS ARE NOT
Your Own By John Anderson Jayne
coming.
B Bunches of Curls Are Sometime
Attached to Combs.
C This Udy Holds in Her Hand
an Entire Coiffure. .
' " the Pompadour.
J H 'Empire Curls.
Roman Braid.
v f IPS J Forehead Curls.
' L K Transformation
n L I, iii i 1 lim ' 1 1 '"i 'I li'm r iliii 1 'i i j hi ' -i i':is-' Him ! torritr-i1"!"-" s:
F
i ROM a "newsy" on the atreet to
the presidency of a large corpora
tion Is not a bad. record for any
man to point to. If that record
be a record of honesty and fair'
D This Shows the Effect of the Hair dealing all along tha line, more's the
Pieces Seen in "C" When Arranged honor, due its owner,
on th Head, Walk up and down the streets of a
' flty, taking special notice pf the names
E A Novel French Theatre Head of -men that appear on the sign boarda
Dress.
they regard as infallible rfilea leading
to success, and wondering how this par
ticular man had worked bis rule. In
quiry was made among the man's for
mer friends. What follows is, in part,
their testimony:
"He worked a If he really enjoyed
his work,"
"He was always on time: In fact, he
made 1t hts boast that for years fie
was the first to arrive and the last to
leave tho, store,"
"He attended strictly to his own bus-
over the tttACAU, flat In ' tnunh with IneSS. and never Went radflins- irnnnil
, some old resldenter and let him tell you "He worked systematically ener t
F Curls Arranged on Comb All tory of the rise and the progress ,Jcally, and took, or seemed to taka a
Ready for Adjustment of ""any of the men whose names- you srt Interest in the business."
' are looking at on the sign boards. You w hl" frora Z"!.
G-A Hair Frame for Wear Under wm b ""-prised to knJw how many 5T,p of emloyTto employe? t hitman
nr innm nnva rinn rrrm t n aa nun n r nnw rwin tr TircwiinmTT a nna nr tha hi.h.
the "newsy." 'Uei, lwa'8 Pld strict attention V
One of these men, the story of whose him " ' -.7 a tru"
life reads like a fairy tale, is to hold
our aiieiuion louay. jkis rainar was a
carpenter, a good workman, but. like
These testimonials from Itvlnr man
relative to a livlna man are vnJiiahiM.
They are net epitaphs on a tomb atones
Bk wia n ui aiiiBII. 1IUL. IIHH ' m "
somo others of his trade, a hard drinker. J nB7. no1 ,Iu.ner5.V eu'Kes. over a
His mother was a godly, righteous sort ?d an a casket.- They are the eam
nt Mman whn iui,,.. ir. ...... est expressions or sane. ennrirAtln tnan
hard for her, died at an early age. With relatl'he, t0 a sane and n1f,r!tlc min-
ne nome oroaen Dy tne aeatn or; ms ;i.; ,.t. . ' v1"11"
L-An Uo.to.Date Grecian Co!ffnr mother, tha boy was practically thrown Jl,LHfd harmonlousi conspiracy. The
i n up-to-uate urectan coinure, out on the streets at a tender age to . V" ,Dee"l, tn, elevation of the
j ;' earn his own living. His first woak a" . i elevation in the business
. . uiiiino. nano.a 71 World and In the estimation re hia
his age, he could find no one who would tji " ' c
give him regular employment. r - His motto Is a good one for ybunj
His first regular position was With a I"n tn;nk bout- Boiled down' for
prominent furniture dealer, who made' SV thought of young men, it says,
him his hostler. From that he rose to Your hours of business are not your
be the owner and proud possessor of a ow, " ' . , , ,
horse and delivery wagon. At tha age l means that a young- man to suv
of 24 he took a course in bookkeeping, 'ceed, must consider himself last and his
afterwards finding a position as ship- employers interests first. He must not
ping clerk - with a larfe . house, with e ev" on the "J11 " Wa
which he remained In ever increasing thoughts on his pay envelope. For the
responsibile positions until the concern. "'"P WUV mranmy, intelligently, 1 1
went out of business and" persistently, the hands of the clo?k M
Fojlowipg this he took a position aa wiu Ma r0un,?. -ulc,t ough, and his payH
auanor witn a targe corporation, re- ',k jwii. nono-s
malnlng there until he found hla way !m 1" tn world to those who jj
slear to purchase enough atock In Htt ""rve them in the long run. Success
embryonic corporation Just starting in crowns the effort of him who Is willing
business to give him a word of authoH- i wor fr wait for It, and watea
ty in tne conduct or its affairs, - with ,1Vrf4k'
the passage of the years he rose hlghnr
- and still higher, until now the eorporo
' tlen ha1 changed Its nam and his name
v is now the first on, tha sign ; boards.1
: bill and letter heads. -.. . ;
Just the other day he was asked ta
:3' give in a sentence .the secret of hl4
success. ThU was his reply: "When
-first went to work for another man 1
realised that my hours were - not . my'
, own. that , they belonged t ray, em
: ployer.' - ' ' - -- .
Knowing mm mmy so eiiwn suueess-
ful, business man have ptt mottoes that point.
' From tha American Wine Press. :
t There f 4 fooyatnant among1 spms
the graduates of" tha : German univer
sities . to abolish , compulsory drlnktnf
by memoers of tha Student -corhs.' A
present no -one Is. admitted -io'thesa's-w ;
clettes if he b an ahstaiher, and- whert
students are initiated they are required:
to drink almost to . the lutoxicat-ioa
i.r-