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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (March 22, 1908)
'THE OREGON ; .SUNDAY " JOURNAL ' PORTLAND, . SUNDAY" HORNING, I MARCH 2y 1905 aHEHLSMH ft 1 ;1 C-'--.V'.NJffM X':- 111 WWW IV V 'V 1 mi ' !!,' - www-, hu j ;s i1" -.v. I - ?R ATO-'Wra fit w7 i t-vip, v'i;i V -1,1 ill ill itstv!-r; -- i v-': ,4..- : i -IB-. -V'. f . I i -fa IV H II I II iir f ivm.'i h!' l...:..;, ' fill I (lP;tM ill r " l : zi,-. a III I T.. riJLI i ... i. ..TMT . 1 1 Hi, r ,kji , Ntrt and tulle bloutet ire much in tv f dentt. The ihort ikirt of fmen or pongee it plctc4 and ma4 with i high-boned girdJo rWTW eveiun - litin. li v a: I T IB a st ranee pervrnlon that has brought back into men great favor the ciaaale line of another age, and much Interest haa hecn taken in what caused the revival. Hid all other shape given out? Wn there nothing left but to return to what had gone bcforoT Reilfern is an Athenian. Can that have Influenced fashion? Is It to his birthplace that the tunic owes Its In troduction? Jle Is devoted to long, elaeslc lines, and his delight was great when lie was asked by a great artist to create her costumes for the role of Aplircxilte. Princess dresses, too, though said to have been design ed by Worth, are the acknowledged mas terpieces of Kedfern. Trt Paquln, cx-bank clerk and greatest of roufuiiere, prefers the personal atmosphere. His aim. al ways to create a dress to' suit the wearer, has produced the finest com binations in the world, lias he fournl that the present-day women suit the classic lines, or do the classlo lines suit them? Who can tell? Beer, the artist, prefers a perfect combination of color, a distinction in the lines, posaJbl only for a great cre ator; therefore the nalons of the Dace V'endonie are visited by the most queenly of Parisienncs. Does he rind that the Grecian style best suits aris tocratic figures? Then there is Poeulllet, the apos tle of simplicity, so vast a simplicity, Indeed, that It conceals the whole acience of harmony and color, reveal ing only the grace of cut, the great est art of the couturier. Perhaps it la this simplicity, this desire for the moderate that haa placed him in the front runk of artists even in this present strenuous day, whop ParlH, formerly the slave of one couturier, has so many real creators to chonne from; and among these Is Drecoll, the heat of tailors. He has at his disposal the cutters of Vienna and Parts, and all the world knows that Vienna leads in the fit of the tailor-made. The apring dresses, be they classic or the revival of some other era,, are made of clinging materials, silk cash mere, crepe de chine, liberty eatln, chiffon cloth, voile, and most of them are finished with the long tr&rfs which fasten at the side and end In a fringe. The Paquin skirt is now made In tucks, not folds, In front, and sometimes these are on the side in stead. Filet net, always popular, Is used ror wnoie dresses and heavily In crusted with lace and hand-work, and dotted tulle is elaborated in un believable ways, A wonderful seml-evenlng dress Is f liberty satin, while a debutante If xki'A r ft f I X"1 A cloth gown by Ney Socurt, howing' of the long icarf that serves a and is fastened at tha side-. Not ng law undenleeve and tha idipti- f the Paquin .akirt; with, the plurt tnc ionu A'linnv--''- 3 'iifll&rtf ''.-..4 for 1 II ; ""S 1 11 The fichu effect with the high waist promitea to be much in evidence. Laces m well a soft materials are jutiLto make V':- " 1 T 7 r i Ucbtitanrs i evemns mm k r The uie of the satin ribbon and bows on thti simple dress does much to give it its note of distinction. fH' ft h JT A atek, , 'tX '-;' . ,',.TT.'!.Jbi' 2S.-u.i..v . -in J f " Hi J;li X 1 ?aSl t',',.' I'M'- . '7 ' k-'l MM t i m 4 "e Ml 'f? .V A . . ". : ,y: v , v y ' - Y ' ' I - 1. , , 1 f(, 1 ft I - '.'"--- I i.' I ' H , ' A II .Costume by Martial 8f Armand. A skirt of filet net heavily incrusted.-witk slecvclcss.whitejincn jicltecy suit of gray prunella, which hat around the neck a little fold of black and white linen Just peeping above th cellar and revers. This la a good idea for a sprint suit, as it may be taken ont and laundered, and it Insures tfc neatness of the costume. Another peculiarity of these spring? Duits in the taffeta used In collar aad, cuffs. Presumably later In tha aa son a little line of embroidery Will be added, for the dead bark la rather somber for bright spring weather. ' t 4 J 4 I SB IS W- ', White - dotted tulle summer gown, ehotvinghe new. draped skirt Rose cashmere de sole evening gown by Ney Soeura, showing a beautiful Gre cian rxunming and the use ot fringe,' propria te to the youngest of buds. The fichu effect for slightly older women Is complicated in its curves and intersections, but it serves to drape the short waists of the empire era. ' A Paquin model which combines spangled net and tulle over a cloth skirt deserves the closest scrutiny, for It Is rarely beautiful and roost becoming;. A new Paquin modeL The oddity lies in the combination of a" sheer apangled jacket with a cloth .skirU Cirde and, icarf of black tulle.. AMERltAN DESIGNS FOR DRESSY DRESSES T i HE new cutaway coat has sprung Into such Instant favor that even the suits designed for afternoon wear are out on this principle, although the materials are smoother and the trimming is mors elaborate. The Parialennes use only the light, sheathlike skirts for their more drossy costumes, but the Americana, who al ways think first of comfort, have adopted tha walking skirt In a very whole-hearted manner so much so. In deed, that, be the coat as elaborate as it may, the sktrt continues to just clear the ground. The false tunic is, how ever, used on some of these skirts, while a few of them are cut with fifteen gorea and left Quite unadorned. But the coats are made in ss many ways as there are sands of the sea one popular method being that modified Japanese sleeve, dubbed in trade cir cles the butterfly. It is a large and full affair, with pleats at the strapped shoul der, and spreads out over the arm giving Just the effect of one of the in sects from which it takes its name. Tho materials for these semi -dressy suits are quite different from those used In more simple costumes. Pana ma and cheviot have no place here, but rajah, prunella (a new material with a silk stripe) and voile all these are popular; while the colors vie with the rainbow palest lavender, Copen hagen, modore (the new brown), mus tard color none of them is missing. The trimmings are of black taffeta, but when the material Is of the striped variety bias bands ara used so that they form a sort of herring bone. Quite a new touch Is shown In a Popular Colors for Spring THERE Is no doubt that for suits, browns and blues hold first, but for dresses the colors may range anywhere from green to purple, from pink to red, and a very beautiful foulard Is shown in the new serpent ahade which is 'twist blue and green while the 1-ondon smoke still extstf la atripes and plaids In all materials. Perhaps in the lighter materials the most beautiful color is Nattier blue, but it is a far cry from the wonder ful shade painted by that popular French artist of the middle of the eighteenth century to the many aad varied shades attributed to htm now. In almost every portrait painted by him. It was either In a velvet curtain half hiding the background or a tono In a rug on the floor, but It was al ways there. So now we see It every where, and nowhere does It show to better advantage than In the soft, part woolen, part silken materials of the spring. Then there Is the new Ude of brown called "modore," beautifully and especially becoming1 to those who treasure the rod glint In their hair, while Copenhagen blue la beautiful, and much used In lighter cotton Roods. , , , Parasol in New Design , - ONE of the newest parasol to fin ish a charming summer ooetumej Is of white china silk embroider ed all round the edge with, spray of thistle done in lightest mauve and Ual est greens. It Is a novel style, and adds . every possible charm of color and graee, at the same time being quite) simple) and decidedly not on the order of tho fluffy lingerie parasols so popular a abort tint ago. This same design Is sometimes used en a linen parasol for morning, except that ' the design is embroidered In cotton or linen thread and la of a much plainer stitch than the silky stylo for after noon. ? a ri i ai sruuuu. ine laise tunic la maw. x tf Jp,l"w aT! I Wr ii j iip asas aw ever, used on some of these skirts, while i-asssssean r sw 1 CTv ' i Vj A 90 I ml """ -flEi """"aw If a 'w of them are cut with fifteen gorea I" ' ire ,i i jTHgt 11 A i- ..., V 7"k. 7&Zr. 1 and left quite unadorned. ll ivf ,' 'W , ' " "y''si I XfT S U L-asa V I Ml r- (B Ch J . But th. coats are made In u many f r5V)t ' . 'HiIill 1 'frraiii J? BCe-" ' iaa "Jf' ViA f Ml ways as there are sands of the sea oni a '"x-. " , X ) l aT fr, NVrrl Ml V- " - -v Vl ?Pula'- method being that modified 1 ZSZf ' ' 1 T-r-OJ' ,i 41 LL-sVy " " , i A.VTr 1 f tit -. J If Japanese sleeve, dubbed in trade cir- M jm " fif j& X '"?C '? IFTrT ' ihw , i m P - ejautterfiy. A 6& SfF & 1 V 1 ' f :, Xt T-' '? i v! II t'w 11 s r, and spreads out over the arm V" ' II jA I X 1 if 4, H yv ' till Sw I I ' i trpM' -db5r&v trfi&Xijt TKf . I v-A I " I f H Light blue aerge with bladtailk trtai IJghr Mue rajshilk trirruned, with I f f ' V f ' 1 t Amethyst rajah cloth. Orienral' em-. I ' cy" doth with fclk irripe howi! 1 wraiig and piped with striped hnen: T nairrwr rersisA embroidery and plain H . , .J -mB' braiderf and ornamented with hand-made aw l"6 in i PP'"? with bias m- I i v tt lUsys" : aWM<tiri false tunic, VT j.pue coac'ahowuig.ke shoul-' 1 ' . ; . ii frttdignctttttt; J5kee,fatt A Z)' V IL-IV iim 4tfcVwrfee , , 4xaeDjug bUcj?lu , .-a-v ', ' , . - ' ' -: - - ;" . - . " -. : : : - '- .. .- ......... f - - , ' . '. ,1- " ' , - - . ' - . v. - . - : ''. . -y 'sAV'Vf ..v-; "'i i- - " v ' . , - - , - . r . ' ' . " ' . . ' ' : ' 4, f ' ; 4 '
