'THE OREGON ; .SUNDAY " JOURNAL ' PORTLAND, . SUNDAY" HORNING, I MARCH 2y 1905
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Ntrt and tulle bloutet ire much in tv
f dentt. The ihort ikirt of fmen or pongee
it plctc4 and ma4 with i high-boned
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T IB a st ranee pervrnlon that has
brought back into men great
favor the ciaaale line of another
age, and much Interest haa hecn
taken in what caused the revival.
Hid all other shape given out? Wn
there nothing left but to return to what
had gone bcforoT
Reilfern is an Athenian. Can that
have Influenced fashion? Is It to his
birthplace that the tunic owes Its In
troduction? Jle Is devoted to long,
elaeslc lines, and his delight was
great when lie was asked by a great
artist to create her costumes for the
role of Aplircxilte. Princess dresses,
too, though said to have been design
ed by Worth, are the acknowledged mas
terpieces of Kedfern.
Trt Paquln, cx-bank clerk and
greatest of roufuiiere, prefers the
personal atmosphere. His aim. al
ways to create a dress to' suit the
wearer, has produced the finest com
binations in the world, lias he fournl
that the present-day women suit the
classic lines, or do the classlo lines
suit them? Who can tell?
Beer, the artist, prefers a perfect
combination of color, a distinction in
the lines, posaJbl only for a great cre
ator; therefore the nalons of the Dace
V'endonie are visited by the most
queenly of Parisienncs. Does he rind
that the Grecian style best suits aris
tocratic figures?
Then there is Poeulllet, the apos
tle of simplicity, so vast a simplicity,
Indeed, that It conceals the whole
acience of harmony and color, reveal
ing only the grace of cut, the great
est art of the couturier. Perhaps it
la this simplicity, this desire for the
moderate that haa placed him in the
front runk of artists even in this
present strenuous day, whop ParlH,
formerly the slave of one couturier,
has so many real creators to chonne
from; and among these Is Drecoll, the
heat of tailors. He has at his disposal
the cutters of Vienna and Parts, and all
the world knows that Vienna leads
in the fit of the tailor-made.
The apring dresses, be they classic
or the revival of some other era,, are
made of clinging materials, silk cash
mere, crepe de chine, liberty eatln,
chiffon cloth, voile, and most of them
are finished with the long tr&rfs
which fasten at the side and end In a
fringe. The Paquin skirt is now made
In tucks, not folds, In front, and
sometimes these are on the side in
stead. Filet net, always popular, Is used
ror wnoie dresses and heavily In
crusted with lace and hand-work,
and dotted tulle is elaborated in un
believable ways,
A wonderful seml-evenlng dress Is
f liberty satin, while a debutante
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A cloth gown by Ney Socurt, howing'
of the long icarf that serves a
and is fastened at tha side-. Not
ng law undenleeve and tha idipti-
f the Paquin .akirt; with, the plurt
tnc ionu
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The fichu effect with the high waist
promitea to be much in evidence. Laces
m well a soft materials are jutiLto make
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The uie of the satin ribbon and bows on
thti simple dress does much to give it its
note of distinction.
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.Costume by Martial 8f Armand. A
skirt of filet net heavily incrusted.-witk
slecvclcss.whitejincn jicltecy
suit of gray prunella, which hat
around the neck a little fold of black
and white linen Just peeping above th
cellar and revers. This la a good idea
for a sprint suit, as it may be taken
ont and laundered, and it Insures tfc
neatness of the costume.
Another peculiarity of these spring?
Duits in the taffeta used In collar aad,
cuffs. Presumably later In tha aa
son a little line of embroidery Will
be added, for the dead bark la rather
somber for bright spring weather. '
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SB IS W-
', White - dotted tulle summer gown,
ehotvinghe new. draped skirt
Rose cashmere de sole evening gown
by Ney Soeura, showing a beautiful Gre
cian rxunming and the use ot fringe,'
propria te to the youngest of buds.
The fichu effect for slightly older
women Is complicated in its curves
and intersections, but it serves to
drape the short waists of the empire
era. '
A Paquin model which combines
spangled net and tulle over a cloth
skirt deserves the closest scrutiny, for
It Is rarely beautiful and roost becoming;.
A new Paquin modeL The oddity lies
in the combination of a" sheer apangled
jacket with a cloth .skirU Cirde and,
icarf of black tulle..
AMERltAN DESIGNS FOR DRESSY DRESSES
T
i HE new cutaway coat has sprung
Into such Instant favor that even
the suits designed for afternoon
wear are out on this principle, although
the materials are smoother and the
trimming is mors elaborate.
The Parialennes use only the light,
sheathlike skirts for their more drossy
costumes, but the Americana, who al
ways think first of comfort, have
adopted tha walking skirt In a very
whole-hearted manner so much so. In
deed, that, be the coat as elaborate as
it may, the sktrt continues to just clear
the ground. The false tunic is, how
ever, used on some of these skirts, while
a few of them are cut with fifteen gorea
and left Quite unadorned.
But the coats are made in ss many
ways as there are sands of the sea one
popular method being that modified
Japanese sleeve, dubbed in trade cir
cles the butterfly. It is a large and full
affair, with pleats at the strapped shoul
der, and spreads out over the arm
giving Just the effect of one of the in
sects from which it takes its name.
Tho materials for these semi -dressy
suits are quite different from those
used In more simple costumes. Pana
ma and cheviot have no place here,
but rajah, prunella (a new material
with a silk stripe) and voile all these
are popular; while the colors vie with
the rainbow palest lavender, Copen
hagen, modore (the new brown), mus
tard color none of them is missing.
The trimmings are of black taffeta,
but when the material Is of the
striped variety bias bands ara used
so that they form a sort of herring
bone. Quite a new touch Is shown In a
Popular Colors for Spring
THERE Is no doubt that for suits,
browns and blues hold first, but
for dresses the colors may range
anywhere from green to purple, from
pink to red, and a very beautiful
foulard Is shown in the new serpent
ahade which is 'twist blue and green
while the 1-ondon smoke still extstf la
atripes and plaids In all materials.
Perhaps in the lighter materials the
most beautiful color is Nattier blue,
but it is a far cry from the wonder
ful shade painted by that popular
French artist of the middle of the
eighteenth century to the many aad
varied shades attributed to htm now.
In almost every portrait painted by
him. It was either In a velvet curtain
half hiding the background or a tono
In a rug on the floor, but It was al
ways there. So now we see It every
where, and nowhere does It show to
better advantage than In the soft,
part woolen, part silken materials of
the spring. Then there Is the new
Ude of brown called "modore,"
beautifully and especially becoming1
to those who treasure the rod glint In
their hair, while Copenhagen blue la
beautiful, and much used In lighter
cotton Roods. , , ,
Parasol in New Design , -
ONE of the newest parasol to fin
ish a charming summer ooetumej
Is of white china silk embroider
ed all round the edge with, spray of
thistle done in lightest mauve and Ual
est greens. It Is a novel style, and adds .
every possible charm of color and graee,
at the same time being quite) simple) and
decidedly not on the order of tho fluffy
lingerie parasols so popular a abort tint
ago.
This same design Is sometimes used en
a linen parasol for morning, except that '
the design is embroidered In cotton or
linen thread and la of a much plainer
stitch than the silky stylo for after
noon. ?
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tf Jp,l"w aT! I Wr ii j iip asas aw ever, used on some of these skirts, while i-asssssean r sw 1 CTv ' i
Vj A 90 I ml """ -flEi """"aw If a 'w of them are cut with fifteen gorea I" ' ire ,i i jTHgt 11 A i- ...,
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L-asa V I Ml r- (B Ch J . But th. coats are made In u many f r5V)t ' . 'HiIill 1 'frraiii J?
BCe-" ' iaa "Jf' ViA f Ml ways as there are sands of the sea oni a '"x-. " , X ) l aT
fr, NVrrl Ml V- " - -v Vl ?Pula'- method being that modified 1 ZSZf ' ' 1 T-r-OJ' ,i 41 LL-sVy
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P - ejautterfiy. A 6& SfF & 1 V 1 ' f :,
Xt T-' '? i v! II t'w 11 s r, and spreads out over the arm V" ' II jA I X 1 if 4,
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" I f H Light blue aerge with bladtailk trtai IJghr Mue rajshilk trirruned, with I f f ' V f ' 1 t Amethyst rajah cloth. Orienral' em-. I ' cy" doth with fclk irripe howi! 1
wraiig and piped with striped hnen: T nairrwr rersisA embroidery and plain H . , .J -mB' braiderf and ornamented with hand-made aw l"6 in i PP'"? with bias m- I i v
tt lUsys" : aWM<tiri false tunic, VT j.pue coac'ahowuig.ke shoul-' 1 ' . ; . ii frttdignctttttt; J5kee,fatt A Z)'
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