The Oregon daily journal., March 22, 1908, Page 50, Image 50

!A Drecoil tailored cot fume !if
rT etnped material. The jacket
andui hints of draping and a vest.
by Lewu with courpnne.&f.rote,
niums and large aigrettes .
A B LONO ago as lart spring a wise
dressmaker prophesied that the
oo&ta for aprtng- would b abort.
'. .'They muat be," aha argued,.
Wm bow can tha conflicting faahlon of
pony, bolero, cutaway and kimono ba
combined? A little longer than the pony,
a little ahorter than the cutaway." Bha
" was right, and Paquln and Drecolliava
shortened the Jackets for this aprlng'a
suits, while Francis shows both long
and short, as usual.
The new cutaway is squared off across
the back,' brought up to the hip Una and
. sloped greatly In front.
Vests, Which hare been worn alt winter,
are noW of linens, lace or suede, while
almost all of the walking aklrta are
pleated, , the long circular "sheath
skirts" being reserved for afternoon
wear.
Most of the models are of soft ma
terials, and Francis Is showing on tail
ored costume of crepe de chine. Stripes
are again at the top notch of popularity
and are used In all sorts of queer ways,
bias, , double bias, perpendicular, while
checks are not much worn, although
a few, which cannot be mistaken when
they come within the range of vision,
are reserved for tailored suits.
Some suits ane composed of a voile
skirt with a wide band of taffeta at the
foot, and a coat of taffeta; while an
other Drecoil mode baa an adapted
vesL Borne drapery la shown even in
the cloth materials, while in other cases
the coata show an incipient leaning
' toward the Directolre.
Really tailored suits were never mado
In silks and such light materials before,
but the close lines of the preaent-day
coats make a suffer material an lm
: possibility.
' Spring Materials for Suits
A SK the polite salesman at the
" woolen counter what the favor
ita materials for suits seem to
be, and he will say smilingly that
everything ts worn, and truly so, for
never has personal preference had its
innings to such an extent. However,
If youi. stop, look and listen to the
well-dressed shoppers who know
what they want, you will And that
: the first call is for strtpea. In all
.widths, colors and designs.
' There Is the chevron stripe shown
fn a smooth worsted, so called from
.the deep, almost perpendicular V made
ever so often., Especially good Is this
variation of the universal' herring
bone, as It can be cut to better ad-
VTN., JtfET II f0-rr?, U f 1 V .,1 . , med In theme-way. The "haute j,, x, tlJZeSlaw-' I
1 BBBSBssvaaVsl mf - ' -www . ' . monae . or, .raris approve or contrast; . s M f " lit m ' "aJaiYr'sss Af
Vj i' , Sv- lV'kwV"' ' S l&V'' 'SSsl ' they, prefer coats1 that do not look as yfT 'M KJjFj ' r t ' ,esIW J T " 1
, 1 il Jt J though they belonged with the skirts; jf jf s"?? . , trr(X-A ' fL
i-?rr . I 1 , they like a deep cutaway, in front; they UmJ " tVJP1
f ' ,' " '': 'Llfs 5 'y "' '",-'1 l 1 ' " admire gathered f silk' and -braid, even I I"' 'I ft, r , II l " " ,
U - r it"- t-.v.--;-Ll.A."-';.', . ' JeT - th , .,!,. ur-, TL I A ' ml '.Hli-sl j
'I. r' . ' 11 i V-4r .-I cm v-.r ;
I 3XA wBKrt bCTft ' MoiihedVNorfoIk'jacket , of.pricot ' r. - .aasa,, I I rtiin' VV .y? chevio, trlmed M
I TaS S.d! Collm and J of pU f) U P,nams mmmed with pttmr leather and B belted cent of d,rk th Z ' lr,mmed ,n . f of same shade IB I
Hm J Wd.of.0rIped.,lkw,rhbr.oramena. g C . L.ghfwe.gh, d,epherriPl.I4;.kirn' ' VO I E
pale
hort
Hat
grra?
IllS C kA IB II 1 1 I'm I1HI I""" fSf Xitv . . v - . I
IIIV"-' 1 : - 1 . I IE III! 1 r, . . 1111 IIIIMII I. I 1 f
II L , I I II I III II II llll I . I i
mmtmmmmmammmKmammsmasiM - J- 1 i -mm r"... ; i nap .
A anrinir tailored coitum Vf fcrecolLThe little curaway jacket, Cottume in cuhmen de wie, by IecolTTut Idei caa
I $ EI S U .voile, with a wide Jttniofc be carried out.in many ibaddof. beige,; petccdublueaad
taffera.et.the foot ' .
vantage than either the diagonal or
straight. But the smooth, satin-faced
diagonals are beautiful in weave and
texture and deservedly popular, as
they are always distinctive and in
good taste.
Diagonal serges and worsteds, as
usual, hold their own, for nothing so
fits In with the variation of all cli
mates as these lightweight but com
fortable materials.
1 ' ours. Americans . prefer their coats , to . . it . awfJV v 1
I t
T
1 i
1HB 0MG0I1VS
NOVELTIES
PARISIAN fashions are the fashions
of this country, except that Amer
ican women seem to have an un
erring instinct In distinguishing the best
of everything In line, cut and material. -Another
peculiar quality that the
women of America possess Is the abil
Cloth robe fc IHe bf NT Soeurt with rx-ii -n.. V, tt V ll' Tailored gortn ofodl tni feuxby ElSJ 1 1 , : w ' ",., !
:
IN AMERICAN SPRING SUITS
ity to look well-gowned in the most ex
aggerated of tailored suits, while a Pa
rlaienne never looks at home In English '
tweed. To be at her best she needa her
chiffons and ' laces, her ruffles and
scarfs. It is for this reason that French
fashions are always - more dressy than
ours. Americans , prefer their coats , to
match their skirts, or at least to be trim
med In the - same - way. The "haute
. monde" of Paris approve of contrast;
they prefer coats that do not look as
though they belonged with the skirts;
they like a deep cutaway-In front; they
admire gathered 5 silk', and braid, even
with a strictly tailor-made. ,
The American suits for the spring of
1908 have followed the Idea of Paris in
the peculiarity of coloring. Apricot,
amethyst champagne, beige, mulberry
all of them are seen in the newest''
models, wnue the buttons are covered in
the same material or with silk to match.
Spring tailored suit by E. foudnitt a
imple model in good style.
Some spring costumes, too, are la
very visible stripes, but the majority
are Of the invisible variety, in tone and
shades of the same color. In Paris all
of the suits are braided in varieties of
soutache, while here they are trimmed
in the same designs, but usually In bias
bands of the material or of silk.
Blue herringbone serge is very popu
lar, arid a new material called chevron.
In which the stripes are not parallel, but
meet In angles. Is very much worn.
Panama, too, is being used to a great
extent.' while plain serge Is another
favorite.
The style varies from a modified Nor
folk to a cutaway, but almost all the
aklrta are plain, trimmed only with a
deep fold of the material, forming a
tSort of false tunic below the kneea,
though a few are pleated or kilted after
the manner of .the French walking
skirt
There seenis to be a tendency to
lengthen morning costurae in spite of
the fact that the season for half shoes
Is rapidly approaching; but perhapa
thla emanates from Paris, for the Psrla
ienne never is guilty of wearing low
shoes or slippers on the street, whatever
She does in her own home.
Striped Voile Used in
Novel Way
A CHARMING dress of voile Is made
on the aeml-princess plans' with
the faint stripes running from
the shoulder to hem, but the panel
which extends In an unbroken line down
the front ts made with the stripes ex
tending from side to side. This cos
tume la very little trimmed and depends
on this peculiar panel and its surplice
sleeves to carry out the effect of the
wonderful lines.
The colors shown are pale violet and
white stripes, and the belt which ex
tends around both sides, but does not
meet in the front. Is of violet linen.
The hat for this, costume, made of
violet chip lined with white straw and
turned up on one side, was trimmed
with a wreath of violets about three
Inches in diameter and a white straw
aigrette.
Coats for Stormy Days
I
' T IS a great relief to know that
when hot weather comes, and It Is
necessary to wear a raincoat we
will not have to wear those heavy silk
affairs, either in white or any other
color, that have been worn for so long,
The new summer raincoats are 0 rub
berized pongee, lust as waterproof as
the strongest rubber, but light and codW',
and fairly becoming In trrelr soft linear