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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (March 15, 1908)
1 THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAtX PDRTL'XNP, SUNDAY MOANING. MARCH W. 1803. 5 Passing of Stripes. 5 wHuyBn r m mmmmm 11 ft HiiiiS Plain Clotkes and Indefi nite Chech Will Take Tkeir Place , Waistcoats, Frivolous, Coquettish and Pictur esque, Are a Feature of the JLNew Dprmg Jackets FlOSt II month or mor th world fao&lnrn bM bea Indulging In . Krtp, Sat) f strip, dres of atrip, hat with brims and - omnia omposd f strip, , VtnjMd parasols, striped abos. Evn .v;tb Umonstn motor ear In which on hop or calls hM ba attacked by tb vtalpo pdaro and wears a eoat of ' croaB toned or maroon atrip es. Tbta rar tho ahopa ar full of print' rnaUrlals In strip, atrtpaa, atrlpeal From heaviest cloth to hrt ahlffon It la lmpoaalbla to aaeap thtm. Bo I suppose thar la no doubt that wa shall again don tba convlot garb. With th diffaraooa that tb stripes run up and . down, or cornar war a, or on tha bias, r but nvr croaawlaa. For that would b fatal to tha allmnaaa at Una which wa all atrlv and struggle to obtain. But In Part a, whara tha coming and . th passing ball a of faahlon ara par- Ktually rune, the kneil of tha atrip baen tollad. Stripe ara dead dead : aa tha proverbial door nail. On tha Rlv iara whara tba spring modaa f lrat ahow themselves, atrip ara eonaplcuoua by their abaance. Plain cloths and clotba ' with Indefinite overpl&ida and checks ' ara tha new choice. Nor la thla to be wondered at. There la no one more fickle than the woman . devoted ta faahlon. What aha haa loved with greatest ardor aha dropa with tha moat nonchalance, and surely for one Mr aha haa faithfully axnlnltad lier passion for atrlpea. Now 1 rol eat mon -vive te roi; Bo In planning your aprine; ault. un- leaa you hare a tailor of audi (rood taata that you can leave thla Important matter unreaervedly In hla ,handa chooaa a plain cloth or one of Indefinite ' check. Then will you be distinguished from "tha ready-mad, and neat aprine" sunshine will ahow your ault not entirely out of fashion. .Although It 1 early yet to aay poal tlvely "this will be worn." or "that will b tha faahlon thla summw." our French l ( ":'ii1Mi''5t'l(.,'; V ". ' i" . ?. , I tit, i . f. SVV ) y, tut 1 ' 14; n A Coats of Silk Will Be Worn With Voile Skirts. 'torn Sleeves Cut m One Witk tke Rest of tke Coat Witk No Fullness at tke Skoul der tke Latest Mode Tkree-qukrter Sleeves ' Here to Stay Tkrougli tke Hot Weather Tke Smart New Little Jackets B Suit of Pale Brown Cloth on Simple but Effective Lines. C Smart Walking Suit of Silver-Gray Cloth With Cape Effect Sleeves. D Blue Serge Is Again Fashionable. Still Another Ar rangement of the In dispensable Scarf. E The Trimming Is Often Confined to the Jacket, the Skirt Being Long and Plain, friends have rather definitely made up their minds on the matter of suits. It only remains to be seen how far Amer ican women will adopt their Ideas. In the first place the models sent here by the great foreign designers are lor.f aa to sklrta. Even plainly tai lored walking eult hav skirts which llu on the ground and quite perceptibly trail bjhind. But the American woman lorg may her good sense wav will have none of them. 8he may approve of the ret of the model, admire the cut, crow enthuslaatlc over the aleeves and waistcoat, but the aklrt must b re prod uned to clear the ground. Home dressmakers refuse to cut the ahort skirts, but with most of them if It la a question of losing a good order vou will find they usually give in. Gored skirts with trimmed panel front, very full ciroular skirts, close-fitting around the hips, and plaited skirts are all to be worn, with poaalbly the circu lar aklrt as first choice. Coats seem to be almost any length to ault the Individual taata, but they are all loose hanging or seml-f ittlng. That overworked phraae, "moulded to the figure," is obaolete. The waist line, which la in many coats only faintly in dicated. In still high. The cutaway, which haa been aUch an unhealthy freak of faahlon this winter, will be more welcome in warm weather suits. Tha coata ara fastened with one, two or three buttons, placed high on the chest, or not fastened at all, as it hap pens. But in every caae thera la oppor tunity given for a display of waist coat. And what a feature waistcoats will be in smart tailor mades this spring. No combination of - materials, trlmminga and button will ba too fantastic, no color too brilliant or gorgeous, no cut too outre. Tou can let your originality run wild with perfect safety In these picturesque front plecea. Rest assured no suits will be complete without them. Made, of rich brocaded satlna, of ori ental embroideries, of cloths smothered in braiding and appliquea, they will bring delight to the heart of the E as tar sir. Old curiosity shops will b over- ready in many dainty wprk bankets are silks and satins in process of embroid ery which will later be sent to the tail ors' hands to be made up into waist coats. When you Invest in your spring hat. have in mind the color of your spring waistcoat For these two important ar ticles of dress to be entirely correct, must be of the same rolurs. Already for the severe type of walking suit, waistcoat and "spats" are being or dered made of the same material. For a pale gray walking suit, a small check of black and white and lavender waa chosen for vest and gaiters. The waistcoat will fasten with buttons of that plnky-mauve quarts, set in silver rims, and. above her ruffled white lawn jabot the girl will wear a narrow tie of violet silk. In her simple gray hat a wing of vlo'et will echo tba note of color. There are many new and effective ar rangementa of jabots which will appear with the early coata. These come as a natural accompaniment to the old-time brocade waistcoats and do much to add to the picturesqueness of effect. Stocks of black satin, built up high under the earr, are replacing the useful, but alas, ao common, white linen collar. It really looks as though sleeves com ing only to the elbow or Just below would obtain for another hot weather season at least For which let us give praise! Sleeves extending to th knuck les add several degrees to th tempera ture. But only in models of the most sever tailor made are these to be found. Th sleeve cut in one with the rest of th ooat and moulded to the turn of the shoulder, without gather or fold, which has been turned out by French tailors this winter, is a decided feature rraany of the spring models. By this do not mem , th. sooallad butterfly aleey. which has for som time been seen In ready made garments. That sleeve was wide and clumsy looking, hanging out aa it did from the waist Una. But this sleeve, as may be seen In the sketch lettered "D," Is fitted tightly over th shoulder, tb fullness beginning Just above th lbow, on end M nWb jMatua euued jttemub tb ds braided cuff in an extremely original done with such art that its presence is promise to have a spring vogue. Shaped not detected oi mnieriai simulating nversKiria . ,. . . ,,. .vi.t. are being tentatively tried on short The gored and circular skirts call for akirt,, but it cuts the length of line cloths of firmer texture than those we so necessary in today's modea and I were familiar with In last spring's suit- don't foresee mUch success for thla lngs, and broadcloths of chiffon weight venture. way. This suit alao has a clever touch n the use of the ever-present scarf in the form of a walatcoat. In this casu It is made of gray liberty silk, which is folded across the front of the figura, carried to the back, crossed at the waist line there and brought around again to the front, where It Is knotted at the left side, the fringed ends hang ing. Modistes seem to take a special Inter est In sleeves this year. Where the sleeve and reat of the garment are not cut in one, very care is taken to hide the Joining. Some variations of their scheming may be seen in the sketches on 'this page. Soutache braiding will be used more than ever, and In a greater variety of fascinating designs. Fancy buttons, with loops made of taffeta silk, will be a feature of garniture quite apart from any real use. Coats of firm eloth will again be bound with black- braid, although this is not new. This binding will be par ticularly used to outline the coats slashed high toward the hips and elop ing sharply either back or front, as the designer s taste suggests. Little Jackets, cut with especial care and elaborately trimmed, made of striped taffeta silk or flowered fancy silks will be fashionable for afternoon wear. They will be donned with skirts of thin ma terial, silk voiles or chiffon oloth. On particularly good example is shown In the sketch lettered "A." It Is tight fit ting whioh surely proclaims It original! with slightly high waist Unfit an! abort skirts set on. Made of Pekic silk in whit and mustard stripes of even width. It is trimmed with fine gold lace and gold buttons and edged all around with a narrow cord of gold. Th little walatonst is of ros-eolord silk, rlehly embroidered. It fastens with two chrysanthemum-like rosettes of Nattier blue ribbons high on th bust, above which appears a yoke and collar of lace. With this is worn a skirt of mustard colored silk voile mada over white silk. Soft, with every bit of stiffness elim lnaud, ara th llttl French model coats , bU zar. If canvas ud sit all, it to COURAQE MANY KINDS of BRAVERY By London Carter (Copyright, 1008. by W. ft. Heant.) STRANGE to say, that although the word courage Involves so many different moral qualities, its al most universal usage is applied to physical bravery, whereas the greatest, truest and noblest courage is always tempered with gentleness, Jus tic and mercy and so far from these qualities being effeminate, rather may It be said that the bravery of manhood is Incomplete without them. A lack of physical fear does not con stitute bravery, for a ruffian may pos sess that, but in tha recognition and pursuance of one's higher duties to ward one's fellow-men, oblivious of self-interest, then, indeed, the heart must dictate, and there waa never a heart without gentleness. At times there la mora courage In a cheerful smile than an angry frown; and In self control than unrestrained passion. Many a so-called brave man has light ly almost carelessly faced the terrors of war, and yet, perhaps, that same man may avoid giving a direct answer to a jjertlnent question or express . his inward moral convictions for fear of opposition, and by such forms of cow ardlo hav many principles needlessly waned; whraa, through moral eourag might hav forever been unquestion ably established. Not long since Mr. Walker, In citing differences of bravery, wrote that dur ing th revolution In France there were men, and many of them, who did not dare set themselves in opposition to th dictation of their class, . though they might has aawvd Trans by a timely exhibition of their beliefs, and yet later those same men marched from tha prison to the guillotine with a light heartedness and Insouciance that showed physical courage of tho highest type, and so confusing and paradoxical at times seem these contradictions that, one almost wondera what the word courage really means. Another clever Incidence was exhibited In one of life's cartoons, which shows a lion tamer who has returned home at a late hour and fears to encounter his spouse, so he went to his lion's cage for- his night's rest, and, being diacovered later, the Wife, looking through the bars of the cage, exclaimed: "Oh, you coward!" It la precisely the proudest men who in moments of Importance will shift their position and contradict them selves suddenly, everything is easier to them than the moral courage to face the fact of failure and acknowledge themselves defeated. Just as moral attainments are mors ..lull . ,Mjr BLI R I VIIO", DU ,v does it require proportionately higher ,g courag to bravely accept misfortune, and perhaps false pride la the most bitterly powerful form of cowardice, for by It the happiness of numerous homes has been wrecked and th depths of which suffering would inva riably b less keen and frequently could hav been averted wer there only suf ficient moral courage to incite honesty for principle's sake rather than policy's. ine distinction between moral', ahd physical bravery emphasises th great-' est difference between the animal king dom and the human race civilisation and barbarism refinement and refut larttx; - ' . . 1. 1 - !
