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THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAtX PDRTL'XNP, SUNDAY MOANING. MARCH W. 1803.
5 Passing of Stripes.
5 wHuyBn r
m mmmmm
11 ft HiiiiS
Plain Clotkes and Indefi
nite Chech Will Take
Tkeir Place ,
Waistcoats, Frivolous,
Coquettish and Pictur
esque, Are a Feature of
the JLNew Dprmg
Jackets
FlOSt II month or mor th world
fao&lnrn bM bea Indulging In
. Krtp,
Sat) f strip, dres of
atrip, hat with brims and
- omnia omposd f strip,
, VtnjMd parasols, striped abos. Evn
.v;tb Umonstn motor ear In which on
hop or calls hM ba attacked by
tb vtalpo pdaro and wears a eoat of
' croaB toned or maroon atrip es.
Tbta rar tho ahopa ar full of print'
rnaUrlals In strip, atrtpaa, atrlpeal
From heaviest cloth to hrt ahlffon
It la lmpoaalbla to aaeap thtm. Bo I
suppose thar la no doubt that wa shall
again don tba convlot garb. With th
diffaraooa that tb stripes run up and
. down, or cornar war a, or on tha bias,
r but nvr croaawlaa. For that would b
fatal to tha allmnaaa at Una which wa
all atrlv and struggle to obtain.
But In Part a, whara tha coming and
. th passing ball a of faahlon ara par-
Ktually rune, the kneil of tha atrip
baen tollad. Stripe ara dead dead
: aa tha proverbial door nail. On tha Rlv
iara whara tba spring modaa f lrat ahow
themselves, atrip ara eonaplcuoua by
their abaance. Plain cloths and clotba
' with Indefinite overpl&ida and checks
' ara tha new choice.
Nor la thla to be wondered at. There
la no one more fickle than the woman
. devoted ta faahlon. What aha haa loved
with greatest ardor aha dropa with tha
moat nonchalance, and surely for one
Mr aha haa faithfully axnlnltad lier
passion for atrlpea. Now 1 rol eat
mon -vive te roi;
Bo In planning your aprine; ault. un-
leaa you hare a tailor of audi (rood
taata that you can leave thla Important
matter unreaervedly In hla ,handa
chooaa a plain cloth or one of Indefinite
' check. Then will you be distinguished
from "tha ready-mad, and neat
aprine" sunshine will ahow your ault
not entirely out of fashion.
.Although It 1 early yet to aay poal
tlvely "this will be worn." or "that will
b tha faahlon thla summw." our French
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14;
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A Coats of Silk Will
Be Worn With Voile
Skirts.
'torn
Sleeves Cut m One Witk
tke Rest of tke Coat Witk
No Fullness at tke Skoul
der tke Latest Mode
Tkree-qukrter Sleeves ' Here to
Stay Tkrougli tke Hot Weather
Tke Smart New
Little Jackets
B Suit of Pale Brown
Cloth on Simple but
Effective Lines.
C Smart Walking
Suit of Silver-Gray
Cloth With Cape
Effect Sleeves.
D Blue Serge Is
Again Fashionable.
Still Another Ar
rangement of the In
dispensable Scarf.
E The Trimming Is
Often Confined to
the Jacket, the Skirt
Being Long and
Plain,
friends have rather definitely made up
their minds on the matter of suits. It
only remains to be seen how far Amer
ican women will adopt their Ideas.
In the first place the models sent
here by the great foreign designers are
lor.f aa to sklrta. Even plainly tai
lored walking eult hav skirts which
llu on the ground and quite perceptibly
trail bjhind. But the American woman
lorg may her good sense wav will
have none of them. 8he may approve
of the ret of the model, admire the cut,
crow enthuslaatlc over the aleeves and
waistcoat, but the aklrt must b re
prod uned to clear the ground.
Home dressmakers refuse to cut the
ahort skirts, but with most of them if
It la a question of losing a good order
vou will find they usually give in.
Gored skirts with trimmed panel front,
very full ciroular skirts, close-fitting
around the hips, and plaited skirts are
all to be worn, with poaalbly the circu
lar aklrt as first choice.
Coats seem to be almost any length
to ault the Individual taata, but they
are all loose hanging or seml-f ittlng.
That overworked phraae, "moulded to
the figure," is obaolete. The waist line,
which la in many coats only faintly in
dicated. In still high.
The cutaway, which haa been aUch an
unhealthy freak of faahlon this winter,
will be more welcome in warm weather
suits. Tha coata ara fastened with one,
two or three buttons, placed high on the
chest, or not fastened at all, as it hap
pens. But in every caae thera la oppor
tunity given for a display of waist
coat. And what a feature waistcoats will be
in smart tailor mades this spring. No
combination of - materials, trlmminga
and button will ba too fantastic, no
color too brilliant or gorgeous, no cut
too outre. Tou can let your originality
run wild with perfect safety In these
picturesque front plecea. Rest assured
no suits will be complete without them.
Made, of rich brocaded satlna, of ori
ental embroideries, of cloths smothered
in braiding and appliquea, they will
bring delight to the heart of the E as tar
sir. Old curiosity shops will b over-
ready in many dainty wprk bankets are
silks and satins in process of embroid
ery which will later be sent to the tail
ors' hands to be made up into waist
coats. When you Invest in your spring hat.
have in mind the color of your spring
waistcoat For these two important ar
ticles of dress to be entirely correct,
must be of the same rolurs. Already
for the severe type of walking suit,
waistcoat and "spats" are being or
dered made of the same material. For
a pale gray walking suit, a small check
of black and white and lavender waa
chosen for vest and gaiters. The
waistcoat will fasten with buttons of
that plnky-mauve quarts, set in silver
rims, and. above her ruffled white lawn
jabot the girl will wear a narrow tie of
violet silk. In her simple gray hat a
wing of vlo'et will echo tba note of
color.
There are many new and effective ar
rangementa of jabots which will appear
with the early coata. These come as a
natural accompaniment to the old-time
brocade waistcoats and do much to add
to the picturesqueness of effect. Stocks
of black satin, built up high under the
earr, are replacing the useful, but alas,
ao common, white linen collar.
It really looks as though sleeves com
ing only to the elbow or Just below
would obtain for another hot weather
season at least For which let us give
praise! Sleeves extending to th knuck
les add several degrees to th tempera
ture. But only in models of the most
sever tailor made are these to be
found.
Th sleeve cut in one with the rest
of th ooat and moulded to the turn of
the shoulder, without gather or fold,
which has been turned out by French
tailors this winter, is a decided feature
rraany of the spring models. By this
do not mem , th. sooallad butterfly
aleey. which has for som time been
seen In ready made garments. That
sleeve was wide and clumsy looking,
hanging out aa it did from the waist
Una. But this sleeve, as may be seen
In the sketch lettered "D," Is fitted
tightly over th shoulder, tb fullness
beginning Just above th lbow, on end
M nWb jMatua euued jttemub tb ds
braided cuff in an extremely original done with such art that its presence is promise to have a spring vogue. Shaped
not detected oi mnieriai simulating nversKiria
. ,. . . ,,. .vi.t. are being tentatively tried on short
The gored and circular skirts call for akirt,, but it cuts the length of line
cloths of firmer texture than those we so necessary in today's modea and I
were familiar with In last spring's suit- don't foresee mUch success for thla
lngs, and broadcloths of chiffon weight venture.
way.
This suit alao has a clever touch n
the use of the ever-present scarf in the
form of a walatcoat. In this casu It is
made of gray liberty silk, which is
folded across the front of the figura,
carried to the back, crossed at the
waist line there and brought around
again to the front, where It Is knotted
at the left side, the fringed ends hang
ing. Modistes seem to take a special Inter
est In sleeves this year. Where the
sleeve and reat of the garment are not
cut in one, very care is taken to hide
the Joining. Some variations of their
scheming may be seen in the sketches
on 'this page.
Soutache braiding will be used more
than ever, and In a greater variety of
fascinating designs. Fancy buttons,
with loops made of taffeta silk, will be
a feature of garniture quite apart from
any real use.
Coats of firm eloth will again be
bound with black- braid, although this
is not new. This binding will be par
ticularly used to outline the coats
slashed high toward the hips and elop
ing sharply either back or front, as the
designer s taste suggests.
Little Jackets, cut with especial care
and elaborately trimmed, made of striped
taffeta silk or flowered fancy silks will
be fashionable for afternoon wear. They
will be donned with skirts of thin ma
terial, silk voiles or chiffon oloth. On
particularly good example is shown In
the sketch lettered "A." It Is tight fit
ting whioh surely proclaims It original!
with slightly high waist Unfit an!
abort skirts set on. Made of Pekic silk
in whit and mustard stripes of even
width. It is trimmed with fine gold lace
and gold buttons and edged all around
with a narrow cord of gold. Th little
walatonst is of ros-eolord silk, rlehly
embroidered. It fastens with two chrysanthemum-like
rosettes of Nattier blue
ribbons high on th bust, above which
appears a yoke and collar of lace. With
this is worn a skirt of mustard colored
silk voile mada over white silk.
Soft, with every bit of stiffness elim
lnaud, ara th llttl French model coats ,
bU zar. If canvas ud sit all, it to
COURAQE MANY KINDS of BRAVERY
By London Carter
(Copyright, 1008. by W. ft. Heant.)
STRANGE to say, that although the
word courage Involves so many
different moral qualities, its al
most universal usage is applied
to physical bravery, whereas the
greatest, truest and noblest courage is
always tempered with gentleness, Jus
tic and mercy and so far from these
qualities being effeminate, rather may
It be said that the bravery of manhood
is Incomplete without them.
A lack of physical fear does not con
stitute bravery, for a ruffian may pos
sess that, but in tha recognition and
pursuance of one's higher duties to
ward one's fellow-men, oblivious of
self-interest, then, indeed, the heart
must dictate, and there waa never a
heart without gentleness. At times
there la mora courage In a cheerful
smile than an angry frown; and In self
control than unrestrained passion.
Many a so-called brave man has light
ly almost carelessly faced the terrors
of war, and yet, perhaps, that same
man may avoid giving a direct answer
to a jjertlnent question or express . his
inward moral convictions for fear of
opposition, and by such forms of cow
ardlo hav many principles needlessly
waned; whraa, through moral eourag
might hav forever been unquestion
ably established.
Not long since Mr. Walker, In citing
differences of bravery, wrote that dur
ing th revolution In France there were
men, and many of them, who did not
dare set themselves in opposition to th
dictation of their class, . though they
might has aawvd Trans by a timely
exhibition of their beliefs, and yet later
those same men marched from tha
prison to the guillotine with a light
heartedness and Insouciance that
showed physical courage of tho highest
type, and so confusing and paradoxical
at times seem these contradictions that,
one almost wondera what the word
courage really means. Another clever
Incidence was exhibited In one of
life's cartoons, which shows a lion
tamer who has returned home at a late
hour and fears to encounter his spouse,
so he went to his lion's cage for- his
night's rest, and, being diacovered later,
the Wife, looking through the bars of
the cage, exclaimed: "Oh, you coward!"
It la precisely the proudest men who
in moments of Importance will shift
their position and contradict them
selves suddenly, everything is easier to
them than the moral courage to face
the fact of failure and acknowledge
themselves defeated.
Just as moral attainments are mors
..lull . ,Mjr BLI R I VIIO", DU ,v
does it require proportionately higher ,g
courag to bravely accept misfortune,
and perhaps false pride la the most
bitterly powerful form of cowardice,
for by It the happiness of numerous
homes has been wrecked and th
depths of which suffering would inva
riably b less keen and frequently could
hav been averted wer there only suf
ficient moral courage to incite honesty
for principle's sake rather than policy's.
ine distinction between moral', ahd
physical bravery emphasises th great-'
est difference between the animal king
dom and the human race civilisation
and barbarism refinement and refut
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