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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Feb. 23, 1908)
THE OREGON SUNDAY 'JOURNAL; .PORTLAND, SUNDAY MORNtNO. FEBRUARY 83,7 1908 r iw wraps ( jh o l wc Mm . -rn s ' . . .'. ' . V Sliort Skirts Are No Longer Seen on Elaborate White Gowns Advance Models Show More Lace and Less Embroidery FOR weeks past the Bhopi hnve been filled with tantalizing articles of summer attire hints of the glories which warm weather will bring- Into ftlll tloom. fortunately one does not have to be one of that lucky class of mortals that fly southward and find summer In the winter months to take an Interest In hot weather clothes. For In those days of super-heated houses muslin gowns need not be laJd away with the mosquito screens Nor do we have to wait for apple blossom ' season to don the charming now lin gerie frocks which are each day mak ing their appearance In exclusive dress making; establishments. It has been quite th thing during this winter to wear for home dinnrrs frocks of filmy white, which by reason of their elaborate and delicate laclneas can hardly truthfully be called wash able. But "lingerie'' they are dubbed all the same, even though the cleanser and not the laundress Is responsible . for their renewed freshness. Paris designers always take particular Joy in finding new combinations of laces and embroideries to make these fowns of batiste things of real beauty, n the lately arrived models they have quite outdone themselves and have sent . us over such charming things of frosty lace and fine needlework that their ex hibition la hailed by a feminine chorus Of admiration. Although a good many gowns of deli cately tinted mull and batiste ar ' shown, white well, aa always, take first . place. Nothing la more satisfying to good taste than the combination of fine white material, creamy lace and ' the duller white tone of hand em broidery. It has an air of richness .. and luxury with which color seems un - able to compete. On the latest models I notice that 'tnore lace and less embroidery Is used. Fine band tucking plays a very prom inent part, some gowns being almost entirely composed of fine tucks, hand run, of course, held together by inser- tlons and motifs of Valenciennes luce. Again we see the combination of many. laces; filet, cluny, Irish crochet and French and German Valenciennes being the moat used. Batiste bandings of fine embrodlery and Irish lace enter into the composition of some of the more simple dresses. Alas for the days of sensible short skirts; Never were short skirts more sensible than when made of the fine whit materials and laces, for to them ' ' llllllllliililpiiiL :-f iilllllllllllillllf liP- jj pM Few Long Sleeve's Appear on Thin Gowns Intended for Afternoon Wear. On Many Skirts the Lines of Trimming Simulate Overskirts . run from the waist Una over the shoulders, falling low over the arm. The rather wide tucked front gore of the aklrt Is enclosed in pieces of em broidery and lace, which descend to meet the lace insertion which rung around the skirt a little above the knee. Again there la tucking separating this insertion from the next one, wiilch heads the tucked flounce. The bottom of the flounce Is scalloped and button holed over a full ruffle of Valenclennoa lace, which makes a delightful froufrou at the edge of the skirt. A dreaa of quite different lines is Jilctured In the sketch lettered "C." It b a simple frock of white batiste. The almost .inevitable long line In front is flven by a banc of fine batiste Inner Ion. edged on either side by Valen ciennes lace, which runs upward from the skirt hem and. dividing at the V haped yoke of Valenciennes lnce, con tinues over each shoulder. The short puff sleeves are almost hidden by shaped nieces of lace-edged batiste, which rail from the arm hole. The collar Is hljrh and boned and the cuffs are of Insertion and lac. .The skirt. htch touohes slightly lII aiound. has a deep flounce, with four tanks about an Inch and a half In width above the hem. Two rows of Valen ciennes Insertion head the flounce. An up-to-date little gown which It would be iulte possible to copy at no very great expense. Overskirts will be a feature of spring and summer gowns. While the real nversklrt is not very possible on these diaphanous hite gowns, which do not take klndlyr to undernklrts. trimming la applied In Hnen which make a very good imitation of the real thing. The sketch lettered "E" has an orig inal skirt of overiklrt effect. Inser tions and Valenciennes lace are used In apron shape, a trimming which la repeated In the back. The line of in sertion which runs ud the skirt and con tinues to the arm hole is "particularly useful In creating an Impression of slendernesa that thing which seem above sll others to be desired Just now. The neck of this princess dreaa is cut In a shallow V and Is enclosed In a yoke composed of Valenciennes lace In sertion, put together with baby Irish! beading. A shaped piece of batiste em-I broidery In a design matching the pat-I tern or tne lace ana efigea witn a rriu of Valenciennes runs down to the waist In front. The sleeves are made Ofl puffs of batiste, caught around In three! piaoea with the baby Irish beading. While sleeves on many French gowns! J row smaller there does not seem much! oubt that the picturesque kimono! alevawlll be seen on fluffy musllnl gownaAhrough at least one more hotl weathef season. Designers seem to have! a curious object loir to disclosing the! arm hole. The JJoJInlng of the sleeve! with the rest of the waist must be hid- den at any cost. Therefore, all man-l ner of little capes, aa well as tne widel Japanese aleeves, are in evidence. For elaborate gowns for afternoon! wear the three quarter or elbow sleeve! still holds. It Is very mucr. morel graceful and possible of variation thanl the long straight sleeve which will be! seen in linens intended ror wear dur ing the morning hours. Although the dress In the sketch "D" Is of linen, it is somewhat elaborate! for morning wear, being much trimmed! with Irish crochet lnce and embroidery. The straps which Join waist and skirt! are a novel feature. They ere heavily! hand embroidered and Inset with Irish! lace beading on either side. The yokel and cape aleeves are entirely of Irish! crocnet lace. I This dress has the collar rising hlghl behind the ears In which one may look! forward to suffering during the summer! days. For anything which tightly en-l closes the neck Is bound to add ap parent degrees to your temperaturel when the mercury has already climbed! unhappily high. I Not that these collars are uncomfort-l able in themselves, for. If properly! made they are not. If made of linen or other Arm material they ehould bel cut out well under the chin and boned I up behind the ears. But If lace in used! for the collar It Is best to leave it un-l shaped, the aide boning holding It upl to the required height. It wrinkles! down under the chin. A Gown of Mull .Elab orately Lace Inset and Hand Embroidered. B Trained Dress of Batiste With Valen- ciennes Lace and., French Embroidery. soiling meant death to their most necessary freshness. This season's lin gerie frocks all have pklrts which most unquestionably trail. Only the simplest of morning frocks promise to have 6klrts escaping the ground. ThS belt seems to be again coming into Its own. While it has not quite 'succeeded in encircling the waists of the one-piece frocks. It haw at least got two-thirds around. For while tli prin cess effect Is still evident in the un broken line from neck to hem in front, the belt' quite frequently starts on either side of the front piece and con tinues around the back. On rare oc casions the belt is allowed to mark the wlst line all around that is, tho natural waist line. In this day of ap parent waist lines at any point be tween hip and arms It la necessary to particularize! The emriJr effect Is seen In the back of many thin white gowns and with tho pofily trailing skirt It is very grace ful. 'Ihf dress marked "A" in tho Illustration has this empire hack, al though the lace is arranged to give a rather long-walsted effect in front ThlB gown very well illustrates many of the points of this year's lingerie dresses, although it Is difficult for a sketch to give a truthful Idea of the extreme delicacy of the materials and of the effect of the dress aa a whole. Made of the finest French mull it has a yoke of creamy Valenciennes laco, be low which are some tucks to give the necessary fulness. The 9leeves are com posed of ruffles 6f the same lace, which are half corfcealed by lace-edged pieces of mull, beautifully embroidered which CKimono Sleeves Are Again Seen on Many Filmy White Gowns. THE SMART SET-Better Class of Society Shocked ty Its Abandon iii 'ill 1 D Dress of White Lin en With Embroidered Straps and Irish Cro chet Lace and Beading. E Princess Gown of French Batiste, Lace and Embroidery. The Trimming Simulates an Over-skirt. By Mildred Stuart. PEOPLE who compose the better class of society, and upon whom the destiny of the nation depends, are constantly shocked at the abandon cf the amart set. With unpardonable effrontery they dare to criticise and make sport of the dignified, refined, moral class. They call them prudes, drones and stupid bores, and take delight In doing ihings that they know offend the deli cate sense of propriety of the cultured. They will cultivate the vulgar and Immoral feeling that their money will allow them to do things that they could not but for their wealth, with which they can purchase immunity from the law. Thev are the first to patronise' new things that are sensa tional. They adopted the automobile at once because the asto gave them an oppor tunity to go faster than it had been possible by 'any other means of loco motion. They love to Invade the quiet neighborhoods of every locality and in many instances have caused serious ac cidents and loss of life, not always es caping injury themselves. Copying the most profligate of Eu tope they nave' caused all sorts of vul- faritles te be Introduced tn this coun ry cigarette smoking for men and BrUMB. JHdVllU IM balUt perform ances, dissipations of all kinds, swag ger in manners and walk, cultivating taste in drees that refined people abhor, indulfrinK in slang almost to the extent of destroylr.fr the English language, women so far forgetting themselves as to descend to the level of the most reck less of the smart set In telling storlea, smoking cigarettes and assuming Inele gant positions in their free aod easy manners. Not long sines a young man, who had not had a very large experience in tho world, was invited to dine at the homo of one of the matrons of the smart set. In addition to the young lady and gentleman of the house, there were other young men and women invited, so that they had a party of a dosen. The dinner was all that could be de sired. All the appointments were in good taate. After dinner they spent an hour or two in oonversatlon, the young ladies Joining in the cigarettes and liquors. They, told stories that the young man, who was the honored guest of the evening, declared subsequently were the "toughest" he had ever heard In his life, that they were worse than college boys of the fastest set would tell, and yet these guests belonged to the best families of the fashionable. Too many young women, especially young matrons, have degenerated into most careless habits, hiding behind their husbands, whom thejr constantly deceive, and also go into the poolrooms at the races and are familiar with horse talk. When they have enough money they have their own stables anjd horses and TERMS OF ENDEARMENT Pet" N ames m 'ranee From Tit-Bits. The terms employed by the people of one nation as the choicest phrases in their vocabulary of endearment are often employed for quite the opposite purposes by pther peoples. One of the most familiar and most coveted phrases of endearment among the French, for instance, is "my little pig,-' and "my little puppy dog" is also much appreciated. When a French hus band calls bis wife a "cat" she does not fly into a passion of resentment, as an English speaking wife might do under tt aama aUoaontaaoes. but takes U as an J G ermany a gentle compliment. On the other hand if ho were to call her a "duck," as the Hrlllsh husband might his wife, she would be very rauoh offended. Some time ago In Germany letters written by the late Count von Moltke to his betrothed were published. In theso the great soldier frequently called the lady "my little kernel of coffee." This strikes one as a very queer pet name and has suggested to a cynical authority that In view of the writer's profession "my little grain of powder' or "my little lump of lead" wdnld bar bean mora appropriate. . - ' ' :V- t : A person's individual likings and oc cupation frequently supply him with terms of endearment. A farmer some times calls his little girl his "colt," and a well known fisherman, to whom the creatures of the brook were as the apple of. his eye, used to begin his let ters to his wife when he was on his fishing expeditions with the words "My dear little speckled trout." At tha seventh annual session of the New York State Federation of Work Ingmen. held recently in Syracuse, the federation pledged its support to Women's Trade Union league In Its f forts to organist the womea workers cf Um stat. managers, not infrequently entering tha lists against their husbands'. They dress flashily and could not , well be outdone In the vulgarity by the veterans of the turf. They mingle unbluahlngly with horsemen of all grades until they become vulgarians themselves. The sums of money that have been spent n .their educations seem wasted, as they have, elected to throw aside their aiaacmpiisnments ror a lire of reckless-1 ness that sewiir mothers would have con-j damned for their brothers. ; Profanity has been heard from ths lips of beautiful women, who have had everything that could be acquired! with money. There is nothing truexl than the old maxim: Si "Evil communlcatlodns corrupt good morals." Their association with evil, sooner or later destroys au tne good they may nave lriiieriiea ana win inane mem un happy, remorseful men and women When it Is too lato for them to reform their misspent lives. When fortunes take wings and. people are ennuied with the)r pleasure-seektnji in Immoral channels, then comes great dissatisfaction with everything and everybody, generally ending in domestia infelicity and the divorco courts. Poor and useless these foolish people sometimes eke out many years of pre carious existence, shunned by hey-dey friends, and ar In every u aMtl of oommiseratioa. ' . t -.., TP : , : ., ::. Cxi:
