THE OREGON SUNDAY 'JOURNAL; .PORTLAND, SUNDAY MORNtNO. FEBRUARY 83,7 1908
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Sliort Skirts Are No Longer
Seen on Elaborate White
Gowns
Advance Models Show More
Lace and Less Embroidery
FOR weeks past the Bhopi hnve
been filled with tantalizing
articles of summer attire hints
of the glories which warm
weather will bring- Into ftlll
tloom.
fortunately one does not have to be
one of that lucky class of mortals that
fly southward and find summer In the
winter months to take an Interest In
hot weather clothes.
For In those days of super-heated
houses muslin gowns need not be laJd
away with the mosquito screens Nor
do we have to wait for apple blossom
' season to don the charming now lin
gerie frocks which are each day mak
ing their appearance In exclusive dress
making; establishments.
It has been quite th thing during
this winter to wear for home dinnrrs
frocks of filmy white, which by reason
of their elaborate and delicate laclneas
can hardly truthfully be called wash
able. But "lingerie'' they are dubbed
all the same, even though the cleanser
and not the laundress Is responsible
. for their renewed freshness.
Paris designers always take particular
Joy in finding new combinations of
laces and embroideries to make these
fowns of batiste things of real beauty,
n the lately arrived models they have
quite outdone themselves and have sent
. us over such charming things of frosty
lace and fine needlework that their ex
hibition la hailed by a feminine chorus
Of admiration.
Although a good many gowns of deli
cately tinted mull and batiste ar
' shown, white well, aa always, take first
. place. Nothing la more satisfying to
good taste than the combination of
fine white material, creamy lace and
' the duller white tone of hand em
broidery. It has an air of richness
.. and luxury with which color seems un
- able to compete.
On the latest models I notice that
'tnore lace and less embroidery Is used.
Fine band tucking plays a very prom
inent part, some gowns being almost
entirely composed of fine tucks, hand
run, of course, held together by inser-
tlons and motifs of Valenciennes luce.
Again we see the combination of
many. laces; filet, cluny, Irish crochet
and French and German Valenciennes
being the moat used. Batiste bandings
of fine embrodlery and Irish lace enter
into the composition of some of the
more simple dresses.
Alas for the days of sensible short
skirts; Never were short skirts more
sensible than when made of the fine
whit materials and laces, for to them
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jj pM
Few Long Sleeve's Appear
on Thin Gowns Intended
for Afternoon Wear.
On Many Skirts the Lines
of Trimming Simulate
Overskirts
. run from the waist Una over the
shoulders, falling low over the arm.
The rather wide tucked front gore of
the aklrt Is enclosed in pieces of em
broidery and lace, which descend to
meet the lace insertion which rung
around the skirt a little above the knee.
Again there la tucking separating this
insertion from the next one, wiilch
heads the tucked flounce. The bottom
of the flounce Is scalloped and button
holed over a full ruffle of Valenclennoa
lace, which makes a delightful froufrou
at the edge of the skirt.
A dreaa of quite different lines is
Jilctured In the sketch lettered "C." It
b a simple frock of white batiste. The
almost .inevitable long line In front is
flven by a banc of fine batiste Inner
Ion. edged on either side by Valen
ciennes lace, which runs upward from
the skirt hem and. dividing at the V
haped yoke of Valenciennes lnce, con
tinues over each shoulder. The short
puff sleeves are almost hidden by
shaped nieces of lace-edged batiste,
which rail from the arm hole. The
collar Is hljrh and boned and the cuffs
are of Insertion and lac.
.The skirt. htch touohes slightly lII
aiound. has a deep flounce, with four
tanks about an Inch and a half In width
above the hem. Two rows of Valen
ciennes Insertion head the flounce. An
up-to-date little gown which It would
be iulte possible to copy at no very
great expense.
Overskirts will be a feature of spring
and summer gowns. While the real
nversklrt is not very possible on these
diaphanous hite gowns, which do not
take klndlyr to undernklrts. trimming la
applied In Hnen which make a very good
imitation of the real thing.
The sketch lettered "E" has an orig
inal skirt of overiklrt effect. Inser
tions and Valenciennes lace are used
In apron shape, a trimming which la
repeated In the back. The line of in
sertion which runs ud the skirt and con
tinues to the arm hole is "particularly
useful In creating an Impression of
slendernesa that thing which seem
above sll others to be desired Just now.
The neck of this princess dreaa is cut
In a shallow V and Is enclosed In a
yoke composed of Valenciennes lace In
sertion, put together with baby Irish!
beading. A shaped piece of batiste em-I
broidery In a design matching the pat-I
tern or tne lace ana efigea witn a rriu
of Valenciennes runs down to the waist
In front. The sleeves are made Ofl
puffs of batiste, caught around In three!
piaoea with the baby Irish beading.
While sleeves on many French gowns!
J row smaller there does not seem much!
oubt that the picturesque kimono!
alevawlll be seen on fluffy musllnl
gownaAhrough at least one more hotl
weathef season. Designers seem to have!
a curious object loir to disclosing the!
arm hole. The JJoJInlng of the sleeve!
with the rest of the waist must be hid-
den at any cost. Therefore, all man-l
ner of little capes, aa well as tne widel
Japanese aleeves, are in evidence.
For elaborate gowns for afternoon!
wear the three quarter or elbow sleeve!
still holds. It Is very mucr. morel
graceful and possible of variation thanl
the long straight sleeve which will be!
seen in linens intended ror wear dur
ing the morning hours.
Although the dress In the sketch "D"
Is of linen, it is somewhat elaborate!
for morning wear, being much trimmed!
with Irish crochet lnce and embroidery.
The straps which Join waist and skirt!
are a novel feature. They ere heavily!
hand embroidered and Inset with Irish!
lace beading on either side. The yokel
and cape aleeves are entirely of Irish!
crocnet lace. I
This dress has the collar rising hlghl
behind the ears In which one may look!
forward to suffering during the summer!
days. For anything which tightly en-l
closes the neck Is bound to add ap
parent degrees to your temperaturel
when the mercury has already climbed!
unhappily high. I
Not that these collars are uncomfort-l
able in themselves, for. If properly!
made they are not. If made of linen
or other Arm material they ehould bel
cut out well under the chin and boned I
up behind the ears. But If lace in used!
for the collar It Is best to leave it un-l
shaped, the aide boning holding It upl
to the required height. It wrinkles!
down under the chin.
A Gown of Mull .Elab
orately Lace Inset and
Hand Embroidered.
B Trained Dress of
Batiste With Valen-
ciennes Lace and.,
French Embroidery.
soiling meant death to their most
necessary freshness. This season's lin
gerie frocks all have pklrts which most
unquestionably trail. Only the simplest
of morning frocks promise to have
6klrts escaping the ground.
ThS belt seems to be again coming
into Its own. While it has not quite
'succeeded in encircling the waists of
the one-piece frocks. It haw at least got
two-thirds around. For while tli prin
cess effect Is still evident in the un
broken line from neck to hem in front,
the belt' quite frequently starts on
either side of the front piece and con
tinues around the back. On rare oc
casions the belt is allowed to mark the
wlst line all around that is, tho
natural waist line. In this day of ap
parent waist lines at any point be
tween hip and arms It la necessary to
particularize!
The emriJr effect Is seen In the back
of many thin white gowns and with tho
pofily trailing skirt It is very grace
ful. 'Ihf dress marked "A" in tho
Illustration has this empire hack, al
though the lace is arranged to give a
rather long-walsted effect in front
ThlB gown very well illustrates many
of the points of this year's lingerie
dresses, although it Is difficult for a
sketch to give a truthful Idea of the
extreme delicacy of the materials and
of the effect of the dress aa a whole.
Made of the finest French mull it has
a yoke of creamy Valenciennes laco, be
low which are some tucks to give the
necessary fulness. The 9leeves are com
posed of ruffles 6f the same lace, which
are half corfcealed by lace-edged pieces
of mull, beautifully embroidered which
CKimono Sleeves Are
Again Seen on Many
Filmy White Gowns.
THE SMART SET-Better Class of Society Shocked ty Its Abandon
iii
'ill
1
D Dress of White Lin
en With Embroidered
Straps and Irish Cro
chet Lace and Beading.
E Princess Gown of
French Batiste, Lace
and Embroidery. The
Trimming Simulates
an Over-skirt.
By Mildred Stuart.
PEOPLE who compose the better
class of society, and upon whom
the destiny of the nation depends,
are constantly shocked at the
abandon cf the amart set.
With unpardonable effrontery they
dare to criticise and make sport of the
dignified, refined, moral class.
They call them prudes, drones and
stupid bores, and take delight In doing
ihings that they know offend the deli
cate sense of propriety of the cultured.
They will cultivate the vulgar and
Immoral feeling that their money will
allow them to do things that they
could not but for their wealth, with
which they can purchase immunity
from the law. Thev are the first to
patronise' new things that are sensa
tional. They adopted the automobile at once
because the asto gave them an oppor
tunity to go faster than it had been
possible by 'any other means of loco
motion. They love to Invade the quiet
neighborhoods of every locality and in
many instances have caused serious ac
cidents and loss of life, not always es
caping injury themselves.
Copying the most profligate of Eu
tope they nave' caused all sorts of vul-
faritles te be Introduced tn this coun
ry cigarette smoking for men and
BrUMB. JHdVllU IM balUt perform
ances, dissipations of all kinds, swag
ger in manners and walk, cultivating
taste in drees that refined people abhor,
indulfrinK in slang almost to the extent
of destroylr.fr the English language,
women so far forgetting themselves as
to descend to the level of the most reck
less of the smart set In telling storlea,
smoking cigarettes and assuming Inele
gant positions in their free aod easy
manners.
Not long sines a young man, who had
not had a very large experience in tho
world, was invited to dine at the homo
of one of the matrons of the smart
set. In addition to the young lady and
gentleman of the house, there were
other young men and women invited,
so that they had a party of a dosen.
The dinner was all that could be de
sired. All the appointments were in
good taate. After dinner they spent an
hour or two in oonversatlon, the young
ladies Joining in the cigarettes and
liquors. They, told stories that the
young man, who was the honored guest
of the evening, declared subsequently
were the "toughest" he had ever heard
In his life, that they were worse than
college boys of the fastest set would
tell, and yet these guests belonged to
the best families of the fashionable.
Too many young women, especially
young matrons, have degenerated into
most careless habits, hiding behind
their husbands, whom thejr constantly
deceive, and also go into the poolrooms
at the races and are familiar with horse
talk.
When they have enough money they
have their own stables anjd horses and
TERMS OF ENDEARMENT Pet" N
ames m
'ranee
From Tit-Bits.
The terms employed by the people of
one nation as the choicest phrases in
their vocabulary of endearment are
often employed for quite the opposite
purposes by pther peoples.
One of the most familiar and most
coveted phrases of endearment among
the French, for instance, is "my little
pig,-' and "my little puppy dog" is also
much appreciated. When a French hus
band calls bis wife a "cat" she does not
fly into a passion of resentment, as an
English speaking wife might do under
tt aama aUoaontaaoes. but takes U as
an
J G
ermany
a gentle compliment. On the other hand
if ho were to call her a "duck," as the
Hrlllsh husband might his wife, she
would be very rauoh offended.
Some time ago In Germany letters
written by the late Count von Moltke
to his betrothed were published. In
theso the great soldier frequently called
the lady "my little kernel of coffee."
This strikes one as a very queer pet
name and has suggested to a cynical
authority that In view of the writer's
profession "my little grain of powder'
or "my little lump of lead" wdnld bar
bean mora appropriate.
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A person's individual likings and oc
cupation frequently supply him with
terms of endearment. A farmer some
times calls his little girl his "colt,"
and a well known fisherman, to whom
the creatures of the brook were as the
apple of. his eye, used to begin his let
ters to his wife when he was on his
fishing expeditions with the words "My
dear little speckled trout."
At tha seventh annual session of the
New York State Federation of Work
Ingmen. held recently in Syracuse, the
federation pledged its support to
Women's Trade Union league In Its f
forts to organist the womea workers
cf Um stat.
managers, not infrequently entering tha
lists against their husbands'.
They dress flashily and could not
, well be outdone In the vulgarity by
the veterans of the turf. They mingle
unbluahlngly with horsemen of all
grades until they become vulgarians
themselves.
The sums of money that have been
spent n .their educations seem wasted,
as they have, elected to throw aside their
aiaacmpiisnments ror a lire of reckless-1
ness that sewiir mothers would have con-j
damned for their brothers. ;
Profanity has been heard from ths
lips of beautiful women, who have
had everything that could be acquired!
with money. There is nothing truexl
than the old maxim: Si
"Evil communlcatlodns corrupt good
morals."
Their association with evil, sooner
or later destroys au tne good they may
nave lriiieriiea ana win inane mem un
happy, remorseful men and women When
it Is too lato for them to reform their
misspent lives.
When fortunes take wings and. people
are ennuied with the)r pleasure-seektnji
in Immoral channels, then comes great
dissatisfaction with everything and
everybody, generally ending in domestia
infelicity and the divorco courts.
Poor and useless these foolish people
sometimes eke out many years of pre
carious existence, shunned by hey-dey
friends, and ar In every u aMtl
of oommiseratioa.
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