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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (July 21, 1907)
: Tnn Oregon Sunday ; journak Portland, sunday mornino. tdxy tu .igcr. s a is x m ;y': J Two Smart Linen Frocks Worn ty Miss . Blanche Oel- : ricns and Mrs. . Willard S. 'Brown. An Elaborate i fefeSfc til Kii ' ; Costume of (I ,T 1 T 1 .Linen and Irish v Lace Designed for Mrs. D. : Willis J ames. Mrs. Hermann - Oelrlclls, "Good ; Luck Slipper YOUTH, we are told, spells folly. So, I suppose, we can't bLam. the young things too severely If they sometimes wear the oaf) and bells a little obviously. But really, between you and me, aome of the achool girls of on.'a acquaintance are too abaurd. Their senna of their own importance Is overpowering. I heard a rather amusing story of one girl who la still in the schoolroom and whose mother we all know. Bhe had a mild attack of muasles and her one cry waa, "Oh, dootor, aave my beauty I Save my beauty! What aelf-conaoloua thine, aome of them are! But of course there are ex ceptions. Blanche Oelrlcha, the daugh ter of Mr. and Mr a. "Charley' Oelrlcha and a niece of the late Hermann Oel rlcha, promisee to be a great beauty, and yet she's not a bit spoilt. Bhe'a only II and charmingly pretty, with a maaa of waving black hair, which a he usually wear flying loose over her shoulders. Such a contrast to her sls ter's Mrs. Peter D. Martin blonde coloring! ust now Blanche Oelrlcha is in Germany with her mother, visiting her grandmother, Mre. Theodore A. Havemeyer Sr. She 1a quite an ardent tennla player, and had some rather well designed little tennla frocks, one of which you may see a sketch of here. It waa mad. of khaki colored linen, the color which la having such a vogue in Paris and which a few wise ones were farsighted enough to order costumes of in advance on thla aide of the water. It was a simple little frock, aa waa fitting for "sweet sixteen." The Skirt, which was quite short and made with out tuck or plait, had only a few unique ly applied bands of about one Inch in width around the foot to relieve the plainness. The waist had a comfortable looking turned-down collar, which gave the freedom of movement ao necessary for tennis. The waist had two deep scallops down the front, under which it cloaed In visibly. Edging the scallops were inch wide bands of the material. A deep plait on each shoulder near the sleeve gave a becoming fullness. Cuffs, with applied bands echoing the bands on the skirt, ended a plain ahtrt waist sleeve Just below the elbow. And on the collar, the scallops down the front and the cuffs waa the dainti est French embroidery of little flowers and leaven done In white. It gave a contrast which waa very effective and yet delicate. The belt was a plain one of the khaki linen, and with this dress Blanche Oel- f.w wor. one of hfr favorite hate, with the brim turned back In front and trimmed only with a ribbon bow. v, !?" H Brown In very proud of nis tall, good-looking daughters-in-law. And you can't blame him -can youT -when you consider how smart and well turned out they always are Mrs. 8. Willard Brown was looking the smartest of the smart the other flay when I saw her wearing a charm ing town of pale blue linen. A moet elaborate gown it was, too. No "sweet slmplioltv'p about this! Its only trimming was of fine white soutache braid, that ultra-smart adorn ment thla year. It has almost entirely superseded French embroidery for any thing but all-white gowns, and It has aj-lchness of effect which quite Justifies Tnere was braiding on the little cost and on the deep cuffs, and most In Bklrt "Jtpn"iv braldlnar on the The skirt waa of walking length and had a plain front breadth, with stitched-down side plaits running from there around to the back. Down 'he outer edges Of the front gore ran a line of soutache braid put on with a little quirt here and there. Six large button of the pale blue linen embroidered la white ornamenttd the gore near the foot an were un closed in lines of the braid. Starting on either side of this plain front width was the braiding, which ran all the way around the skirt A line of narrow braiding outlined the hem. Kather leas body and more sleeves tnan we have been accustomed to see In smart coats thla year characterised the little Jacket, It had a low, square-cut opening at the neck and waa eollarless. Lines of braiding ran all around the neck and made elaborate the fronts of the jacket. It waa cut Irregularly around the lower edge ' and was followed by the braid design. It fastened in double-breasted fashion, with six big buttons of blue embroidered in White. Box plaita, set In the top of the sleeve and continuing to the cuff, gave, a rather unusual air to the aleevea. The cuffa were really "stunning." Generous affairs they were, running up In two rounded pointa in the back and front. They were braided and fastened with big buttons like those on the Jacket and skirt. A lingerie blouse of fine lace and embroidery waa worn under the coat A hat with the fashionable roll in front and trimmed with rosea completed thla very smart and trim-looking get up. A Mlas Blnache Oelrtchs Were a Tennis Dress of Khaki Linen Embroidered la White. B White Linen and Irish Lace Combined In Unique De Blfn for Mrs. D. Willie James. 0 Pale Blue Linen With White Soutache Braiding Worn by Mr. Willard 8. Brown. D -Mr. Herman Oelrlchs Carries Her Luck on Her Dainty Slipper. I had a loo at a costume the other day which waa a Frenoh model and un doubtedly unique, even If, personally, I couldn't commend It for beauty. It waa, I waa told, destined for wear by Mra D Willis James, and It struck me aa being one Of the most pretentious linen gowns I had yet seen. White linen and heavy Irish crochet lae wre used exclusively In Its con struction. . , A band of magnificent lace was put almost midway around the skirt. Be low the lace wee three shaped bands) of linen, each one being stitched at the top and bottom, but fastened to the skirt only at the upper edge. Theso bands were Inclined to be ruffly. They did not lie quite flat The top of the skirt suggested aa apron more than anything else or rather three little aprons. They were put on one oa top of the other, and hung out loosely from the foundation skirt. In a gale of wind I oan quite Imagine the effeot being aa angry white hen. with all Its feathers ruffled. As X said before, it was unique. The little coat suggested a box coat la out But It had bands applied which simulated a boUro, It was made of linen folds, three overlapping. Indeed, the Idee of these was oarried out In skirt and eoat and sleeve a . Wide bands of the earn beautiful Irish lace aa oa the skirt were Inserted down the ooat and on the aleevea. Rdg log thla on the ooat war three folds wnloe. cams down the front and rata around the bottom of the Jacket Three, folds were used for the little simulated bolero and again three folds made oapee over the tons of the sleeves. The euffa were wide turned-back ones and were made of three pieoea. There waa no oollar to the coat and the open Ingat the neok waa alight Jk The hat to wear with thK... wae trimmed with roses and had iong'SgVjt- pf streamers depending from We all eherlati our nwn eat anMretl tlons. At leaat I hope you have one, I oertalnly have and get all manner oC thrills and discomfort out of It Cholly jeers at me, but I notloe he oarefully avoids walking under a ladder or starting on a Journey on a Friday. Bat a good luck superstition we all hold Is that of the horaeshoe. I think that la what has made It ao common. I had to have all the diamonds In my Immense horseshoe set In another de sign. I really eouldn't wear It after I saw one of my maids on her "after noon out" wearing an exact duplicate, in glittering class. I have no doubl It ooat her twentyMitne cents. But now I'm rather oorry that I did It For the other evening at a dinner Mrs. Herman Oelrlchs was wearing a glittering diamond horseshoe on her black suede shoe. The shoe was tiny you know she's famous for her email feet the diamond horseshoe was very) big and the effeot was quite fascinating, I suppose the vogue of very short skirts is responsible for our lively in terest In clothing for our feet And how abnormally short the skirts are I Borne time ago I told you that my tailor Insisted on making my walk- lag anna rour or nve lncaes rrom the ground. At the time I protested, but now I see his wisdom. I should feet quite "dowdy" with my skirts any longea whatever the "none of the ease may be one of the "pros" la the excellent opportunity It gives ns to exhibit to an admiring world the very newest and) smartest things In shoes. And suoh odd and origtnal Ideas are shown, too. Even quite conservative women nave broken forth In unex pectedly giddy footgear. The woman who a season or two ago would have scorned the suggestion of garbing hei feet la anything but sober blaok nasi now set forth In her boot-cloo.t row and rows of shoes of shoes and sltpperst rivaling tn hue the colors of the rainbow. For wearing with her walking toga she has trim shoes of rusaet leather for the fashion of taa shoes has In tioi wise diminished. Even with black cloth, frowns shoes of brown are the correct hlng. For golfing she has stoutly made ox fords, for tennis white buckskin with rubber soles. To accompany her light, tub gowns are a variety of whrte shoes. Pumps of buckskin, "sailor ties" or white linen, slippers of embroideredl white linen with a tiny tongue and bis mother-of-pearl buckle. Heavy, ribbed English pique made Into pumps andj adorned with a flat ribbon bow are! considered very smart. With her lingerie dreeses, which She dons in the aftornoon, are quite the cutest" thing in shoes. They are made of very fine white kid almost a pump tn shape, and they boast a little turn over collar (I think that best describee It) of colored hid. Sometimes tney aro white with a coral pink collar, some times black, shiny patent leather, with! a eollar of violet kid. of course, the stockings must bear a hint of the same color. For Instance, if the color on her shoes were pale blue her white ellM stockings would probably be embroid ered with a delicate design of forget-me-nots. Stockings of plaid silk are going t be worn a lot I've been quite orlgtnnl, I flatter myself, and have had some collars of silk of the same clan as my stocking's put on my patent leather shoes. Don't you think ft pounds chloT But all the glories of the daytime footgear quite sink Into thstgnlflcanee beside the slippers designed for wear In the evening. Such darling and dainty things thev are! They are made of satin, plain end brocaded, of silk, of the finest softest suede, of velvet and of lace yes, (I lace! Embroidery in gold and In silver IS employed to mako them beautiful. Even the heels are quite works of art Inset, as some of them are, with sparkling! stones: though that I must admit, like the slippers of gold and stiver olothj we saw in tne winter, is a pu too meaty rlcal for my taste. But the height of luxury seen me to be reaohed In the gaiters!' laea which some women are ordfijTflg. foil wear with low white shoes. Thev are. made on a fine white lining. exactly the shape of -oloth gaiters ws wear in the winter. The lace, of course, Is of a rather heavy kind, as very fine lnce would crease and not set so well, They button with little pearl buttons, and of course are cut and fitted wltUI the greatest aocuracy and care. GOWNS CAN BE MADE WHILE YOU WAITHow the Modern Modiste Meets tne Exactions of Fasnion Devotees "W HAT a perfectly beautiful gown!" whispered one of New York's society matrons to another. "When did you have it made7" "This afternoon," replied her friend. "Bo glad you like It." Did the admiring friend express as tonishment at the information that thla elaborate dinner gown had been made In an afternoonT Not a bit of it! "Mak ing a gown while you wait" Is no com mon thing among the "Four Hundred" In any big city. JniS-i. fashionable establishment Jest off Fifth avenue, in New York, hurried an elegantly gowned woman. In a mo- ment she was consulting with Madame the dressmaker. A dinner gown must he made to wear that night. "Something in moonlight blue," sug gested madame, "and you might wear xurquiosea and diamonds with it, or oven pearls, if you like." "I'd like a long train and something fluffy oa the bodice," interjected the -customer. i "Yes. well make It of satin, veiled In chiffon and lace and embroidered with Iridescent beads In shades of light ' blue Just picked out with gold yte, gold would be better at a dinner; it will Impart more color to the gown. Leave it to me. J.wUl get you up something charming. Let me eee, can you drop In about fotr o'clock or, say five, for a. flttingt Mrs. Blanks comes at four and Mrs. Tandevere at half after, rn queeso jrou in before the next fitter." v "And J must have It st seven o'clock sharp. Don't you think you can sead It up before thatr eoaxinly. "I'll try," smiled madame: "but you ahall have It by seven, anyhow." With a wisp of moonlight blue ma terial in her hand madame trailed grace fully to the forewoman. "Make a dinner gown in this color." She .ordered, and then she directed of what materials the fown was to be made, with a general irectlon as to ita style. The forewoman hurried to the work room with the order and to the stock room to see What ahe had of which to make it ' This has got to be done by Seven o'clock," she commanded. "Hurry now, and see where thlsi goods can be matched. You must buy the lining and chiffon veiling of the same tint. A young "shopper" hastened away with a bit of the moonlight blue, to search the shops for materials that matched it. Before her skirts had whisked out of the door the forewoman was telephon ing hurried orders to bead embroiderers and trimming makers with" commands for one to come up and get a sample to match. When the prospective owner of the gown came to be ntted number less workers were engaged In stitching upon her dress. Borne worked Tipon one sleeve, some upon another. One decor ated the decolletage cf the bodice, as yet unrated and undraped; others Sewed bead after bead upon the gleaming folda of the filmy gown already glitter ing with points of Iridescent light from applications of trimmings and embroid ered arabesques of tiny beads. BtlH others worked upon the undersllp and skirt Just before 1 o'clock two busy packers (aid th. last fold of tissue i paper between the diaphanous loveli ness of aa elaborately tmbroidered din ner gown, and a little biter a maid was arranging; its fold upon Its owae& Mrs George Gould came smiling into one of New York's big dressmaking es tablishments not long since with an or der for a vllvet dinner gown to be worn with her magnlflclent emeralds. "I suggest green velvet," said madame, the dressmaker, "with a very simple bodice to act as a frame for the Jewels. Your diamonds with the emeralds, will give all the Illumination required, and there should be nothing to detract from the beauty of the stones. Some em broidery upon the skirt? Well, perhaps a design in emerald and Hilnestohe beads running up the skirt and around the bottom. Just enough to relieve it, and Quite a rich finish to the little sleeves." "It must be readv in time for dinner before the opera," said Mrs. Gould. At the opera that night her superb gown of green velvet, with its rich embroider ies and glittering emerald and diamond ornaments was the cynosure of all eyes. Scarcely had she disappeared from the modiste's when a friend, who Was due at the same dinner and opera party, dropped in for a gown. "I'll wait for It." she calmly an nounced. "I'm tired and I'll lust Sit here and answer some notes while you make it. Call me when I'm to be fitted." In a cosy little room she was ushered. Now she would write notes; then would pause for interested chat with some other gown purchaser and such friends were constantly dropping in then she concluded to look over samples of ma terials for another dress. After this more notes and then the selection of a hat And so she rested and amused herself and shopped during the short afternoon while shoppers and workers hurried and scurried about gathering together tho Infinite rarist , of ma terials which go to make up a smart kown nowadays and shaping them Into a beautiful whole. , "What! finished already," she ex claimed, as the fitter deferentially ap peared with shining lengths of satin over his arm and a business-like looking pair of scissors and cushion bristllnjj with pins. , ' "in a moment," assured the fitter. "It has only to be tried on." In a place where each customer has a duplicate of her form ever in readiness to De draped with a new gown the fit ting Of a gown Is seldom more than a matter of form. Indeed, gowna are often never fitted to anything but dummy fig uree where customers are away or do not want to be fitted either at their homes or at the shops which they pa tronise. The average woman, however, Is more than willing-16 be fitted, for she knows that little touches of origi nality co be Imparted to the living figure which one might not think of tn relation to a dummy. Sometimes, too, the dummy does not answer for an ab solute fit where the gown is of the charaoter known as "molded to the figure Ift thliTMtfie the fitter and hi assis tant pinned, and draped and clipped, and In a moment the handsome kown was slipped off, earned to the finishers, and Soon after dlapatched to Its owner. It seems little short of incredible to the average person that an entire elab orate gown can be . made up In a few hour. that a fashionable woman may order a gown on her way to pay after noon calls end put that gown on when ahe returhe te her home after the round of calls has been paid. What does It mean to make such a gownT It mesne that one bit of ma terlaj coast be matched with Ughtsiaf rapidity with linings, chiffon veilings, flounclngs, binding., trimmings, buttons, frequently with beads and sequins. That satin or cloth must have silk and chif fon to match It and this is one of the most difficult things In the world, since In some shades matching proves an ab solute Impossibility. In that case the laces and other materials must be dyed, and dyed In a few hours. Materials for linings, too, must often be dyed. Memory of Sleepwalkers. From Pearson's Weekly. The memory Of Sleep walkers Is oc casionally prodigious under the Influ ence of the dominating Impulse that moves them There Is an Instance of a poor and Illiterate basket maker, who was unable to read or write, yet In a" state of alesp he would preach fluent sermons, which were afterward recognised as having formed portions of discourses he was accustomed to hear in the parish church aa a child more than 40 years before. Quite aS strange a case of "uncon scious memory" la. referred to by Dr. Aberorombie. A girl Jtlrm to sleep walking waa In the habit of Imitating the violin with her lips, giving the pre liminary tuning and scraping and flour ishing with the utmost fidelity. It puszled the physician a good deal until he ascertained that when a child ehe lived in a room adjoining a fiddler, who often -performed -onh4e- violin la her hearing. i e t Indianian'i Epitaph. Kokomo Correspondence Indianapolis ... ' gtar. proud of his Ufa's coatletion. and es- teeming It an honor to any man, W. T.. Johnson, 71 years Of age, of Oak ford, who died, today, , asked that It be carved upon his tombstone that he was a Prc hlbltltonlst. ' This remembrance waa the .desire of a lifetime, and he often poke of It to acquaintances. Ha had lived Ja thla county over (9 yeara. LIFE IN THE SULTANS HAREM Mon arck's MotLer Rules Harem and Is Terror of Inmates AT THE present moment when so much attention la being paid to the question of equal rights for men and woman, a passing glimpse into the harem of his Serene Majesty Abdul-Ham Id exposes a condition of things hard to believe, and atill harder to accept Curiously enough, however. It la not the sultan who Is the most powerful and most dreaded autocrat In his own harem, but the sultan's mother, known by the name of "Valid.." It Is the sultan's mother who, not only regulates every lnetdent of the harem, but pos sesses the right of life and deathover the wotnan In it and there are almosfno known instanoee in which a aultan has dared to save a favorite from a pun ishment ordered by "the crown of vleled heads," as the Valid, is called In the harem. And next to the Sultan's mother comes, not the sultan's favorite wife, as might be Imagined, but the hasna-dar-osta, or grand mistress of finances. The sultan's chief wife, or, more cor rectly speaking, mistress, ranks only third In the order of the harem, and Seems to possess, moreover, no real power whatsoever. I Use th word mis tress because the sultan, which will firobably come as a surprise to the ma ority of English readers, la not allowed 0 . marry, Thla extraordinary- prohlbl- . lng dates from the time when 4 sultan, going upon some holy war, and taking his legitimate wife with him. found her suddenly seised by the enemy and led into eaptlvity, Now, the sultan, being considered tne Almighty's descendant and representative cn earth, hta wife was of course, sacred, and qould pot be eome the property ei any leases crsat- ore. Her seliurs. therefore, created something like a panic in royal circles. A council was called, and It was decided that henceforward, to avoia repeuuun of a similar abomination, no aultan should ever marry. The members of the harem are still young slaves brought in Clrassla, Georgia, Armenia and other places, and practically educated In the hnrem ltselt on the chance that the sultan may ons day notice them. It appears al30 that civilization hits not mode great sinaea In the management of the royal harem, and that corporal punishments are still frequent, eunuchs, -called "beating? eunuchs," still being kept for refractory persons. Poisoned coffee Is also not entirely Out or fashion, while, grimmer still, the terrible sack flung into tha Bosphorus even now docs its sinister work. It is piteous to learn that, not withstanding all this, many parents will ingly sell children to supply the enor mous colony which conatitutes the narem. But life for a Turkish potentate la at beat a troubled circumstance. The fear of assassination Is so great that the aultan, It seems, has not for years slept two nights running In the same chamber, The only person aware each night of the room selected is his mother, who secret ly gets It ready. Two female slaves als lie. like faithful dogs, extended across the doorway, ready to spring up at tha allBhteat linlne or the faintest Call from the sovereign, But .for feaj or treachery even -those are everv night and never Until moment know to what part of the tney are to do sent. ine c amusements of the harem are inmi rh hut it 1m nlotaont in Iar Some of the women have the deeper Joy of motherhood, and that the. are chil dren to take care of and watch over. Bo many bet animals ars kept also, that the royal harem has been called a iraiiu trlvflV rn thaV ,r; . I..
