: Tnn Oregon Sunday ; journak Portland, sunday mornino. tdxy tu .igcr.
s a is x m
;y': J
Two Smart
Linen Frocks
Worn ty Miss
. Blanche Oel-
: ricns and Mrs.
. Willard S.
'Brown.
An Elaborate
i
fefeSfc til Kii '
; Costume of
(I ,T 1 T 1
.Linen and Irish
v Lace Designed
for Mrs. D.
: Willis J ames.
Mrs. Hermann
- Oelrlclls, "Good
; Luck Slipper
YOUTH, we are told, spells folly.
So, I suppose, we can't bLam.
the young things too severely If
they sometimes wear the oaf) and
bells a little obviously.
But really, between you and me, aome
of the achool girls of on.'a acquaintance
are too abaurd. Their senna of their
own importance Is overpowering.
I heard a rather amusing story of
one girl who la still in the schoolroom
and whose mother we all know. Bhe
had a mild attack of muasles and her
one cry waa, "Oh, dootor, aave my
beauty I Save my beauty!
What aelf-conaoloua thine, aome of
them are! But of course there are ex
ceptions. Blanche Oelrlcha, the daugh
ter of Mr. and Mr a. "Charley' Oelrlcha
and a niece of the late Hermann Oel
rlcha, promisee to be a great beauty,
and yet she's not a bit spoilt.
Bhe'a only II and charmingly pretty,
with a maaa of waving black hair, which
a he usually wear flying loose over her
shoulders. Such a contrast to her sls
ter's Mrs. Peter D. Martin blonde
coloring! ust now Blanche Oelrlcha
is in Germany with her mother, visiting
her grandmother, Mre. Theodore A.
Havemeyer Sr.
She 1a quite an ardent tennla player,
and had some rather well designed
little tennla frocks, one of which you
may see a sketch of here.
It waa mad. of khaki colored linen,
the color which la having such a vogue
in Paris and which a few wise ones were
farsighted enough to order costumes
of in advance on thla aide of the water.
It was a simple little frock, aa waa
fitting for "sweet sixteen." The Skirt,
which was quite short and made with
out tuck or plait, had only a few unique
ly applied bands of about one Inch in
width around the foot to relieve the
plainness.
The waist had a comfortable looking
turned-down collar, which gave the
freedom of movement ao necessary for
tennis.
The waist had two deep scallops down
the front, under which it cloaed In
visibly. Edging the scallops were inch
wide bands of the material. A deep
plait on each shoulder near the sleeve
gave a becoming fullness.
Cuffs, with applied bands echoing the
bands on the skirt, ended a plain ahtrt
waist sleeve Just below the elbow.
And on the collar, the scallops down
the front and the cuffs waa the dainti
est French embroidery of little flowers
and leaven done In white. It gave a
contrast which waa very effective and
yet delicate.
The belt was a plain one of the khaki
linen, and with this dress Blanche Oel-
f.w wor. one of hfr favorite hate,
with the brim turned back In front
and trimmed only with a ribbon bow.
v, !?" H Brown In very proud of
nis tall, good-looking daughters-in-law.
And you can't blame him -can youT -when
you consider how smart and well
turned out they always are
Mrs. 8. Willard Brown was looking
the smartest of the smart the other
flay when I saw her wearing a charm
ing town of pale blue linen. A moet
elaborate gown it was, too. No "sweet
slmplioltv'p about this!
Its only trimming was of fine white
soutache braid, that ultra-smart adorn
ment thla year. It has almost entirely
superseded French embroidery for any
thing but all-white gowns, and It has
aj-lchness of effect which quite Justifies
Tnere was braiding on the little cost
and on the deep cuffs, and most In
Bklrt "Jtpn"iv braldlnar on the
The skirt waa of walking length and
had a plain front breadth, with
stitched-down side plaits running from
there around to the back. Down 'he
outer edges Of the front gore ran a
line of soutache braid put on with a
little quirt here and there.
Six large button of the pale blue
linen embroidered la white ornamenttd
the gore near the foot an were un
closed in lines of the braid. Starting
on either side of this plain front width
was the braiding, which ran all the way
around the skirt A line of narrow
braiding outlined the hem.
Kather leas body and more sleeves
tnan we have been accustomed to see In
smart coats thla year characterised the
little Jacket,
It had a low, square-cut opening at
the neck and waa eollarless. Lines of
braiding ran all around the neck and
made elaborate the fronts of the jacket.
It waa cut Irregularly around the lower
edge ' and was followed by the braid
design. It fastened in double-breasted
fashion, with six big buttons of blue
embroidered in White.
Box plaita, set In the top of the
sleeve and continuing to the cuff, gave,
a rather unusual air to the aleevea. The
cuffa were really "stunning." Generous
affairs they were, running up In two
rounded pointa in the back and front.
They were braided and fastened with
big buttons like those on the Jacket and
skirt.
A lingerie blouse of fine lace and
embroidery waa worn under the coat
A hat with the fashionable roll in
front and trimmed with rosea completed
thla very smart and trim-looking get
up.
A Mlas Blnache Oelrtchs
Were a Tennis Dress of Khaki
Linen Embroidered la White.
B White Linen and Irish
Lace Combined In Unique De
Blfn for Mrs. D. Willie James.
0 Pale Blue Linen With
White Soutache Braiding Worn
by Mr. Willard 8. Brown.
D -Mr. Herman Oelrlchs
Carries Her Luck on Her
Dainty Slipper.
I had a loo at a costume the other
day which waa a Frenoh model and un
doubtedly unique, even If, personally,
I couldn't commend It for beauty. It
waa, I waa told, destined for wear by
Mra D Willis James, and It struck me
aa being one Of the most pretentious
linen gowns I had yet seen.
White linen and heavy Irish crochet
lae wre used exclusively In Its con
struction. . ,
A band of magnificent lace was put
almost midway around the skirt. Be
low the lace wee three shaped bands)
of linen, each one being stitched at the
top and bottom, but fastened to the
skirt only at the upper edge. Theso
bands were Inclined to be ruffly. They
did not lie quite flat
The top of the skirt suggested aa
apron more than anything else or rather
three little aprons.
They were put on one oa top of the
other, and hung out loosely from the
foundation skirt. In a gale of wind I
oan quite Imagine the effeot being aa
angry white hen. with all Its feathers
ruffled. As X said before, it was unique.
The little coat suggested a box coat
la out But It had bands applied which
simulated a boUro, It was made of
linen folds, three overlapping. Indeed,
the Idee of these was oarried out In skirt
and eoat and sleeve a .
Wide bands of the earn beautiful
Irish lace aa oa the skirt were Inserted
down the ooat and on the aleevea. Rdg
log thla on the ooat war three folds
wnloe. cams down the front and rata
around the bottom of the Jacket Three,
folds were used for the little simulated
bolero and again three folds made oapee
over the tons of the sleeves.
The euffa were wide turned-back ones
and were made of three pieoea. There
waa no oollar to the coat and the open
Ingat the neok waa alight Jk
The hat to wear with thK... wae
trimmed with roses and had iong'SgVjt-
pf streamers depending from
We all eherlati our nwn eat anMretl
tlons. At leaat I hope you have one,
I oertalnly have and get all manner oC
thrills and discomfort out of It
Cholly jeers at me, but I notloe he
oarefully avoids walking under a ladder
or starting on a Journey on a Friday.
Bat a good luck superstition we all
hold Is that of the horaeshoe. I think
that la what has made It ao common. I
had to have all the diamonds In my
Immense horseshoe set In another de
sign. I really eouldn't wear It after
I saw one of my maids on her "after
noon out" wearing an exact duplicate,
in glittering class. I have no doubl
It ooat her twentyMitne cents.
But now I'm rather oorry that I did
It For the other evening at a dinner
Mrs. Herman Oelrlchs was wearing a
glittering diamond horseshoe on her
black suede shoe. The shoe was tiny
you know she's famous for her email
feet the diamond horseshoe was very)
big and the effeot was quite fascinating,
I suppose the vogue of very short
skirts is responsible for our lively in
terest In clothing for our feet
And how abnormally short the skirts
are I Borne time ago I told you that
my tailor Insisted on making my walk-
lag anna rour or nve lncaes rrom the
ground. At the time I protested, but
now I see his wisdom. I should feet
quite "dowdy" with my skirts any
longea
whatever the "none of the ease may
be one of the "pros" la the excellent
opportunity It gives ns to exhibit to
an admiring world the very newest and)
smartest things In shoes.
And suoh odd and origtnal Ideas are
shown, too. Even quite conservative
women nave broken forth In unex
pectedly giddy footgear. The woman
who a season or two ago would have
scorned the suggestion of garbing hei
feet la anything but sober blaok nasi
now set forth In her boot-cloo.t row
and rows of shoes of shoes and sltpperst
rivaling tn hue the colors of the rainbow.
For wearing with her walking toga
she has trim shoes of rusaet leather
for the fashion of taa shoes has In tioi
wise diminished. Even with black cloth,
frowns shoes of brown are the correct
hlng.
For golfing she has stoutly made ox
fords, for tennis white buckskin with
rubber soles. To accompany her light,
tub gowns are a variety of whrte shoes.
Pumps of buckskin, "sailor ties" or
white linen, slippers of embroideredl
white linen with a tiny tongue and bis
mother-of-pearl buckle. Heavy, ribbed
English pique made Into pumps andj
adorned with a flat ribbon bow are!
considered very smart.
With her lingerie dreeses, which She
dons in the aftornoon, are quite the
cutest" thing in shoes. They are made
of very fine white kid almost a pump
tn shape, and they boast a little turn
over collar (I think that best describee
It) of colored hid. Sometimes tney aro
white with a coral pink collar, some
times black, shiny patent leather, with!
a eollar of violet kid. of course, the
stockings must bear a hint of the same
color. For Instance, if the color on her
shoes were pale blue her white ellM
stockings would probably be embroid
ered with a delicate design of forget-me-nots.
Stockings of plaid silk are going t
be worn a lot I've been quite orlgtnnl,
I flatter myself, and have had some
collars of silk of the same clan as my
stocking's put on my patent leather
shoes. Don't you think ft pounds chloT
But all the glories of the daytime
footgear quite sink Into thstgnlflcanee
beside the slippers designed for wear
In the evening. Such darling and dainty
things thev are!
They are made of satin, plain end
brocaded, of silk, of the finest softest
suede, of velvet and of lace yes, (I
lace!
Embroidery in gold and In silver IS
employed to mako them beautiful. Even
the heels are quite works of art Inset,
as some of them are, with sparkling!
stones: though that I must admit, like
the slippers of gold and stiver olothj
we saw in tne winter, is a pu too meaty
rlcal for my taste.
But the height of luxury seen
me to be reaohed In the gaiters!' laea
which some women are ordfijTflg. foil
wear with low white shoes.
Thev are. made on a fine white lining.
exactly the shape of -oloth gaiters ws
wear in the winter. The lace, of course,
Is of a rather heavy kind, as very fine
lnce would crease and not set so well,
They button with little pearl buttons,
and of course are cut and fitted wltUI
the greatest aocuracy and care.
GOWNS CAN BE MADE WHILE YOU WAITHow
the Modern Modiste Meets tne Exactions of Fasnion Devotees
"W
HAT a perfectly beautiful
gown!" whispered one of
New York's society matrons
to another. "When did
you have it made7"
"This afternoon," replied her friend.
"Bo glad you like It."
Did the admiring friend express as
tonishment at the information that thla
elaborate dinner gown had been made In
an afternoonT Not a bit of it! "Mak
ing a gown while you wait" Is no com
mon thing among the "Four Hundred"
In any big city.
JniS-i. fashionable establishment Jest
off Fifth avenue, in New York, hurried
an elegantly gowned woman. In a mo-
ment she was consulting with Madame
the dressmaker. A dinner gown must
he made to wear that night.
"Something in moonlight blue," sug
gested madame, "and you might wear
xurquiosea and diamonds with it, or
oven pearls, if you like."
"I'd like a long train and something
fluffy oa the bodice," interjected the
-customer. i
"Yes. well make It of satin, veiled
In chiffon and lace and embroidered
with Iridescent beads In shades of light
' blue Just picked out with gold yte,
gold would be better at a dinner; it will
Impart more color to the gown. Leave
it to me. J.wUl get you up something
charming. Let me eee, can you drop
In about fotr o'clock or, say five, for
a. flttingt Mrs. Blanks comes at four
and Mrs. Tandevere at half after, rn
queeso jrou in before the next fitter."
v "And J must have It st seven o'clock
sharp. Don't you think you can sead It
up before thatr eoaxinly.
"I'll try," smiled madame: "but you
ahall have It by seven, anyhow."
With a wisp of moonlight blue ma
terial in her hand madame trailed grace
fully to the forewoman. "Make a dinner
gown in this color." She .ordered, and
then she directed of what materials the
fown was to be made, with a general
irectlon as to ita style.
The forewoman hurried to the work
room with the order and to the stock
room to see What ahe had of which to
make it
' This has got to be done by Seven
o'clock," she commanded. "Hurry now,
and see where thlsi goods can be
matched. You must buy the lining and
chiffon veiling of the same tint.
A young "shopper" hastened away
with a bit of the moonlight blue, to
search the shops for materials that
matched it.
Before her skirts had whisked out of
the door the forewoman was telephon
ing hurried orders to bead embroiderers
and trimming makers with" commands
for one to come up and get a sample
to match. When the prospective owner
of the gown came to be ntted number
less workers were engaged In stitching
upon her dress. Borne worked Tipon one
sleeve, some upon another. One decor
ated the decolletage cf the bodice, as
yet unrated and undraped; others Sewed
bead after bead upon the gleaming
folda of the filmy gown already glitter
ing with points of Iridescent light from
applications of trimmings and embroid
ered arabesques of tiny beads. BtlH
others worked upon the undersllp and
skirt Just before 1 o'clock two busy
packers (aid th. last fold of tissue i
paper between the diaphanous loveli
ness of aa elaborately tmbroidered din
ner gown, and a little biter a maid was
arranging; its fold upon Its owae&
Mrs George Gould came smiling into
one of New York's big dressmaking es
tablishments not long since with an or
der for a vllvet dinner gown to be worn
with her magnlflclent emeralds.
"I suggest green velvet," said madame,
the dressmaker, "with a very simple
bodice to act as a frame for the Jewels.
Your diamonds with the emeralds, will
give all the Illumination required, and
there should be nothing to detract from
the beauty of the stones. Some em
broidery upon the skirt? Well, perhaps
a design in emerald and Hilnestohe
beads running up the skirt and around
the bottom. Just enough to relieve it,
and Quite a rich finish to the little
sleeves."
"It must be readv in time for dinner
before the opera," said Mrs. Gould. At
the opera that night her superb gown
of green velvet, with its rich embroider
ies and glittering emerald and diamond
ornaments was the cynosure of all eyes.
Scarcely had she disappeared from the
modiste's when a friend, who Was due
at the same dinner and opera party,
dropped in for a gown.
"I'll wait for It." she calmly an
nounced. "I'm tired and I'll lust Sit
here and answer some notes while you
make it. Call me when I'm to be fitted."
In a cosy little room she was ushered.
Now she would write notes; then would
pause for interested chat with some
other gown purchaser and such friends
were constantly dropping in then she
concluded to look over samples of ma
terials for another dress. After this
more notes and then the selection of a
hat And so she rested and amused
herself and shopped during the short
afternoon while shoppers and workers
hurried and scurried about gathering
together tho Infinite rarist , of ma
terials which go to make up a smart
kown nowadays and shaping them Into
a beautiful whole. ,
"What! finished already," she ex
claimed, as the fitter deferentially ap
peared with shining lengths of satin
over his arm and a business-like looking
pair of scissors and cushion bristllnjj
with pins. , '
"in a moment," assured the fitter. "It
has only to be tried on."
In a place where each customer has a
duplicate of her form ever in readiness
to De draped with a new gown the fit
ting Of a gown Is seldom more than a
matter of form. Indeed, gowna are often
never fitted to anything but dummy fig
uree where customers are away or do
not want to be fitted either at their
homes or at the shops which they pa
tronise. The average woman, however,
Is more than willing-16 be fitted, for
she knows that little touches of origi
nality co be Imparted to the living
figure which one might not think of tn
relation to a dummy. Sometimes, too,
the dummy does not answer for an ab
solute fit where the gown is of the
charaoter known as "molded to the
figure
Ift thliTMtfie the fitter and hi assis
tant pinned, and draped and clipped, and
In a moment the handsome kown was
slipped off, earned to the finishers,
and Soon after dlapatched to Its owner.
It seems little short of incredible to
the average person that an entire elab
orate gown can be . made up In a few
hour. that a fashionable woman may
order a gown on her way to pay after
noon calls end put that gown on when
ahe returhe te her home after the round
of calls has been paid.
What does It mean to make such a
gownT It mesne that one bit of ma
terlaj coast be matched with Ughtsiaf
rapidity with linings, chiffon veilings,
flounclngs, binding., trimmings, buttons,
frequently with beads and sequins. That
satin or cloth must have silk and chif
fon to match It and this is one of the
most difficult things In the world, since
In some shades matching proves an ab
solute Impossibility. In that case the
laces and other materials must be dyed,
and dyed In a few hours. Materials for
linings, too, must often be dyed.
Memory of Sleepwalkers.
From Pearson's Weekly.
The memory Of Sleep walkers Is oc
casionally prodigious under the Influ
ence of the dominating Impulse that
moves them
There Is an Instance of a poor and
Illiterate basket maker, who was unable
to read or write, yet In a" state of alesp
he would preach fluent sermons, which
were afterward recognised as having
formed portions of discourses he was
accustomed to hear in the parish church
aa a child more than 40 years before.
Quite aS strange a case of "uncon
scious memory" la. referred to by Dr.
Aberorombie. A girl Jtlrm to sleep
walking waa In the habit of Imitating
the violin with her lips, giving the pre
liminary tuning and scraping and flour
ishing with the utmost fidelity. It
puszled the physician a good deal until
he ascertained that when a child ehe
lived in a room adjoining a fiddler, who
often -performed -onh4e- violin la her
hearing.
i e t
Indianian'i Epitaph.
Kokomo Correspondence Indianapolis
... ' gtar.
proud of his Ufa's coatletion. and es-
teeming It an honor to any man, W. T..
Johnson, 71 years Of age, of Oak ford,
who died, today, , asked that It be carved
upon his tombstone that he was a Prc
hlbltltonlst. ' This remembrance waa
the .desire of a lifetime, and he often
poke of It to acquaintances. Ha had
lived Ja thla county over (9 yeara.
LIFE IN THE SULTANS HAREM Mon
arck's MotLer Rules Harem and Is Terror of Inmates
AT THE present moment when so
much attention la being paid to
the question of equal rights for
men and woman, a passing
glimpse into the harem of his
Serene Majesty Abdul-Ham Id exposes a
condition of things hard to believe, and
atill harder to accept
Curiously enough, however. It la not
the sultan who Is the most powerful
and most dreaded autocrat In his own
harem, but the sultan's mother, known
by the name of "Valid.." It Is the
sultan's mother who, not only regulates
every lnetdent of the harem, but pos
sesses the right of life and deathover
the wotnan In it and there are almosfno
known instanoee in which a aultan has
dared to save a favorite from a pun
ishment ordered by "the crown of vleled
heads," as the Valid, is called In the
harem.
And next to the Sultan's mother
comes, not the sultan's favorite wife,
as might be Imagined, but the hasna-dar-osta,
or grand mistress of finances.
The sultan's chief wife, or, more cor
rectly speaking, mistress, ranks only
third In the order of the harem, and
Seems to possess, moreover, no real
power whatsoever. I Use th word mis
tress because the sultan, which will
firobably come as a surprise to the ma
ority of English readers, la not allowed
0 . marry, Thla extraordinary- prohlbl- .
lng dates from the time when 4 sultan,
going upon some holy war, and taking
his legitimate wife with him. found her
suddenly seised by the enemy and led
into eaptlvity, Now, the sultan, being
considered tne Almighty's descendant
and representative cn earth, hta wife
was of course, sacred, and qould pot be
eome the property ei any leases crsat-
ore. Her seliurs. therefore, created
something like a panic in royal circles.
A council was called, and It was decided
that henceforward, to avoia repeuuun
of a similar abomination, no aultan
should ever marry.
The members of the harem are still
young slaves brought in Clrassla,
Georgia, Armenia and other places, and
practically educated In the hnrem ltselt
on the chance that the sultan may ons
day notice them. It appears al30 that
civilization hits not mode great sinaea
In the management of the royal harem,
and that corporal punishments are still
frequent, eunuchs, -called "beating?
eunuchs," still being kept for refractory
persons. Poisoned coffee Is also not
entirely Out or fashion, while, grimmer
still, the terrible sack flung into tha
Bosphorus even now docs its sinister
work. It is piteous to learn that, not
withstanding all this, many parents will
ingly sell children to supply the enor
mous colony which conatitutes the
narem.
But life for a Turkish potentate la at
beat a troubled circumstance. The fear
of assassination Is so great that the
aultan, It seems, has not for years slept
two nights running In the same chamber,
The only person aware each night of the
room selected is his mother, who secret
ly gets It ready. Two female slaves
als lie. like faithful dogs, extended
across the doorway, ready to spring up
at tha allBhteat linlne or the faintest
Call from the sovereign, But .for feaj
or treachery even -those are
everv night and never Until
moment know to what part of the
tney are to do sent. ine c
amusements of the harem are
inmi rh hut it 1m nlotaont in Iar
Some of the women have the deeper Joy
of motherhood, and that the. are chil
dren to take care of and watch over.
Bo many bet animals ars kept also, that
the royal harem has been called a
iraiiu
trlvflV
rn thaV
,r; . I..