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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (May 12, 1907)
Tiic Com Caiiriot Die The New Xxample r in Toulard Worn by Mrs. Chauiicey. ;:'.;.::;;-r;;:Depew, Mrs. Elihu Root in a Spring Gown of Black, Much Plaited, with , Just a Touch of White. The Square Cut Arm Hole in Miss Root's Jumper Frock as an 1 Important Hint. a Foreword of Fashion With About the" "Mushroomi T IHB "mushroom" in th fashlonabl as In th vegetable world pro greeeea la shape and lie. If It keeps on t (oat all our under sized women will look like the toads of the t fairy books, completely overshadowed by the toadstools.- And ret Ita growth here baa by no moans begun to attain lta full fashionable perfection. , Over acroaa, In Paris, they ar wear ing their chapeeux aet ao far far back. and their hair 1 ao much fluffed way, way forward, aKd pinned ao up, Hp In ' tha middle of tha brlmal . Well, w ehall see. Like all extreme accentuations In a node, the Immense, enormous, over powering "mushroom growth la fear fully unbecoming; to eome woman. ' One of Natlca Rives' bridesmalda Just be fore her wadding the other week wa trying on ana of the newest ahapea when aha tapped her feat In vexation, snatched It off and swore thatt . . ., "t can and Just won't wear ona of these things with that detestable, unl- veraal, tiresome, turn-down , brim "Muahy's a good name for it, I say," . Tet to noma faces the setting la real ly very becoming and quite delightful. It may get provoklngly tiresome, and ; Ilka all other accented things, get too quickly, too common, but there will be as many smart variations of thla fashionable confection aa of tha edible. The chef will put a, touch of piquancy In his aauca and aj will Mile. Modiste . In ' her sauciness. Each , win tie ais tlnctively more desirable and colt rood bit you may bo sure, , . I wonder if there ever waa a woman who wasn't really ' and truly fond of foulard, s I noticed Mrs. Chauncey Do pe w was wearing a very nice frock of It the other day at Bherry's aunng juncn ' eon. and It seems to be making a atrong bid for smart popularity. A new weave of it by ' tha way, la called messallne why mescaline, I'm sure I don't know whether from the name nf a city or the name of a sln jier, but messallne It Is, and it's utterly charming. I aver, in the way It drapes and clings. ' Its clinging and draping effects are softest and moat artistic. Z find much Joy In it, , . , ,- An Effect in French Poulard. Mra. Depew'a gown waa not of this variety, however. It waa a French fou lard. ; It had a ground of white with a, very '"stunning" design In blue and dull green over it all. . The colors, I thought, exactly , suited her and ' were a. decidedly good change from tha plain array and blue she usually wears. I .always think somehow of Mrs. Depaw as such a very well groomed woman i and she's so fresh looking that aha eeuld successfully allow herself mora latitude In tha way of color and design, I'm aura. Why does aha nearly always al low herself to atlck to neutral tints and auch conservative styles. I trust ' phe will heed my sincere suggestion. ' The gown I quite fell In love with had one of those long, perfectly plain ' skirts which look ao deceptively sim ple and so easy to make. In reality they should never be attempted by any but a very experienced creator, far la the knowledge of exactly how to cut and drapa tha material Ilea their com . rilete1 suecea. Thia ;axiri naa ao in iittT tucka at the waist and t foil away in folds and draptngs w,hlfch vera most satisfying to one s eye. It doesn't seem possible to build a waist this 1 year without eonatructlng an widerwalst' of white. To .try to do this would be something like attempt ing, to erect a building without laying 3the cornerstone, f Mrs. Depewe walat was Square cut and under the -abort','; loose -foulard sleeves an under waist of cluny and filet lace peeped out. This, by tha way, is - cornblmrttonff- laeen-mneb-af fact mi Just now, .very correct ana most umart ' Tha walxt waa double breasted and fastened with six large buttons of cut ateel. The deep swathed girdle was of Uffeta allk tha exact shade of 1ihe lslua figura f the foulard. All' these details I am father rushing through because I am bo anxious to telt you about tha trimming, whioh really waa the motif of -tha whole symphony. ' This trimming was the dearest, daln- !At I am temptea to say -cutest". thing, and what da you think U was? t v u mr 4 " 0 i :. m -.." - - - laaaaAir 'g. .'. . ft ... RTIV m. W I Cs7-V , c.y . . .. t . ; f - 1 Afe. ' , 1 ' v ' ' .! 'X , . aTf I aaa W aWV I i i ri . 1 - w .,. " 1 i . i. :.."i .: . a I .-ill if . ai ' if f.x - x.. i i . i . i ill! I aBasSJftTj afSt'cXS I lh . -1 - " ' . '' f 1 . -miAV.tl . V)i r.l.JI. : :t X - 3vt?. .ii . u .. rfmmxM&mM. . , Y.VY.mWMl X t 1 ' li Voi" 1 vr'VAi VH Iff a. I 2 iMVW a ' a v. - if. it - -w. - a . j i -rru . - . ar aaaacim i a a aaaas. . aw m' "nar . a .aa a m w a . a bl' ar . I ', . .. ILXi 1 . . . 1 'inn ' l.fllri . ' "v: a , . . la 'a i Taaaw .. Bl 1 . V . VaTT? aVl ' a-asaW" '.'ft . , I ? ' '' 1 VgSj ' y Jfl if ' v n. lAl ' ' i v tner wardrobe. , . . 1 . 'v ' y Crrench Foulard Gown of Blu and Dull Green. Worn by Mra. Chaun- 1111 I I 1 . AW . ' - .. 'MM I B It 1 . ' B . S 11 . a . " a .. i V t . . : I "ITf " MM 1 .11 1 1 1 V' WW I MM I 111 1 a X. II I 1 111 I'm . W , i r a i ii s i - a a a m'wi x x iv ' i 1 I ll I 1 111 .1 tt' l ' ,', V in f u I i. ill ; i" w Vtfvv ' fflUl'l III ft . ft W X IIII I III 1 Villi B I 1 Vft-WI Walat, .Skirt n Just lota and lota of tiny little out tea buckle strung on ha If -Inch blue velvet rlbbona! They. were put qulta oloaa together and. fairly twinkled at ona! ' , i And on tha other aide of thla twink ling, buckle-strung velvet was a row of narrow black soutache braid. This trimming was uaed to outline tha equare-eut neck and waa applied right down the front of the waist. . It also gave Just a note af decided accent to tha edgea of tha foulard aleevea,: whloh war slaahed up tb oMter side and A-fra, Ellhu Eoofa Smart Gown, Deilsned with . Sleeve All in Plait. - A A-Back Vltw of Mra. Boofa Gown. caught acroaa with two Straps over the white undewleeves.) ' , ,. T--. -i . What a charming, coor fashion hla ona of sheer white gulmpe and BUevea promlaea to be this summer. ' ; Wa can breathe and fl deleetabl In a bit of dlaphanoua laoa, lightly up held by a mora slender bona or two. In our afternoon frocks we shall dispense with collars altoaether. for tha collar less Dutch neck ta to ba again tha thing. This la a fashion becoming to nearly vary one, thought Of course ona who Is blessed with youth and pretty neck will ba doubly blessed. J advise you to aea toft thaV your masaeuaa spends aartloular care on you neck just now, Don't hesitate. . Your reward will coma later on. 'xtt'" V"''''''''''.. I ran over to Washington, aa l toid you last waek. to peep In at Bennlngs. catch a whiff at lilacs If they bad burat and. Incidentally, I eaw a gown that ie most worthy of hotlce from tha pen of the Recording Angel of Fashion. Mra. Ellhu Boot waa Inside tha frock, ,Jt waa biaok, ana; it waa a purposely and scrupulously chosen gown of long lines. It was what one might call, in very practical words, a plaited dress in fact,' I don't think I ever saw a dreia aulte ao much plaited, r j , Waist, skirt, sleeves an wart aom poacd of plaits. o , . . A Smart Little Jumper Fock. , ' Tha material tatd -was a peculiarly sllky supple' veiling, firm and yet not stiff. Bur taf f at tllk played quite aa important; a Prt in the affect of the whole for the edge of; each plait waa narrowly bound with, taffeta allk.' Pr-nament8otJaffetaLUlt-wera.uae4--a both sKlrt and waist . The waist ; was entirely plaited, A yoke of cluny and valenaiennes lace In white worked in together and further ornamented wlthi applications of Irish orochet lace, extended over the should ers to the . sleeves, The veiling came qr on to the front of the silk in little points, each point edged with a tiny piping of taffeta,, ''r:--fiyf:ri- Tnere was a suggestion or-auspenaer effect In the shaped pteeea of veiling weloh. ran from the belt to near the top of the ahoulder, where they ended.! These "pleeea were bound with taf fete and bad seme cleverly contrived rosette- like ornament of , tarreta taw .upon them at Intervale, graduating In elae from the ahoulder down. :(;;- , v The back of the walat duplicated the rant. Jolnlna tha ' straps over the shoulder were two very narrow banda of ailkiwhloh ran over the white lace of the yoke.-, The sleeves were oioseiy nlAitcd and ended In a euff of lace, The deen lrdle waa of taffeta and taffeta ornaments were, again uaed to fasten th anda of the aliened Pieces to the belt. Two flower-ltke ornament ef allk, from which hung bunches of little taffeta, "danaiers" were piacea jus e- lew the yoke on the front of the walat It ought to Interest you to know how the rosette-like ornaments were maae. Rounds of the silk were "out and on them were aewed gathered taffeta baby ribbon "ronnd and ground following tha outline of the tarreta oisk. unite simple, ta U notT et the effect waa po clever. si .t-.w" Skirts run to extreme tm year, wa either trail i our long garments in a beautiful simplicity of lonr llnea, with out tucks, without plaits or ornaments of any-kind, or else we wrap ourselves In yards and yards or stun, lucaea, platted, embroidered and braided. -Ton could hardly ; find ' better " ex amples of these two .style than In the BsiiTS OI jura, myitr 0 .u . iwv. , gowns, ror Mra. kooib bkjti am no belong to the simple class.- It bad, of course, to conform to the lines of the waist The ahaped pteeea which ornat mented the v waist were i continued on the aklrt, gradually widening front belt to hem. .Theae bad the- same rosette ornamanta-ia reduatad-siaaV-Around the bottom of , the krt wa a wide, plain band of " allk. Above thi i two band of the Telling, attached at the upper edge only, were placed. The upper one of these twe banda bore the rosettes. v The back of . the . skirt had two shaped piece similar to the front These continued the line. Of the walat As I have said before,f clever dress for a woman of few Inches, But let her Uo is, however, -t'dlvlnely tall," beware. Thosa long up-and-down line are not for her. f Jumper dresses, mark me, are golna to be worn thla summer by all classes and ages of women. It would ba a prat ty aafe wager that It a woman a ward robe held but three dressea. two Of them would be of the Jumper tyla Theee dressea are o slmpl and ao youthful looking that they are, capable Of taking yeara fromjhe wearer's age. And what woman object to that? Not you, mv a&ra, ana cemiwy nox ; ; And, by the Way I oaughi a glimpse ef a very (mart little Jumper dreaa dea tlned for wear later on by Ml Ithel Boot, the secretary's daughter. It was mad of a dellclou atrawberry-1 lee cream " plnk-t shade ef llnea which should pro? most becoming to Miss Root' dark eye and hair, I know, that one heara a great deal about M IM Root cleverness and sorlousnes and all that, dui ana naa, 100, e rvy xaminina leva for pretty -olothe. The skirt of the Jumper dres waa a plaited one. with a box plait down the eenter of the front and two aid plait en either aid turn ing baoki then a pllm breadth. The next group" of plait turned toward the front, whion gave a very gooe; awing ta the plaited pert and accentuated the plain piece.- Two tuck ran around the skirt and a simple StltQhed nam finished the bottom. . i - . When you are arranging with your modiste for your Jumper frock be ur that the armholea are aquare-eut, for the aquare-cut armhole la now quite the mode. It, a tha parUcuar attention .to these little detail which ta auoh a val uable asset in amartnesa. , - v In Mis Roof dras the armhole waa aauare-cut and . tha walat and r, little sleeves were all ut la one. ; Over the shoulder ran narrow atitohed tuck to Jrlve the necessary girlish fullneaa. The ow-cut neck, which ran down In front In a deep U waa outlined with a three- auarter-incn. Dana or . mi linen. Tne eut-out TJ was crossed by three bands of the linen, allowing the white gulmpe of lawn ana lace to he eeen tnrougn. Each band waa decorated with Just the littlest, daintiest apray of rrenon em broidery in white. The linen aleevea, which were so small they ware hardly worthy of the name, had the same em broidery, : The sleeve of laern and lace ended In a straight ruff Just below the elbow. The waist and skirt were Joined together under e belt ef jtnea, . CHANGES IN INDIAN LIFE - From Youth' Companion. ' " Wo hear a great deal of the Indian a a vanishing race.- In one sense this is a correct description. ' By alow but sure BtagfB the Indiana whom Cooper IdealUed and Catlln painted are passing from view, and the great nations whom "the early explorer of our country dis covered occupying their original hunt ing ground are breaking rv-. But the vanishing race and the dla tnembered natlone are atill numerous enoufrh to make a pretty fair Showing for thcroneivea. Tho rtory of Captain Jack, the lr reconcUaUle Modoe , leader, Is still toM frHa-itm ttr ttme ta prrnTfluch Ip the same spirit in which the historical writ, axa now and then revive bloody mem erte of Callrula and Nero. Today a visit to the, remote Klamath 'reserva tlnn in Oregon, wlire a remnant of the .lodne trilie, once aa savage aa any, haa - for v6riA jtait nai m bom, U a revelation Neat house, well built and sensibly equipped, are found on every side, the ' handiwork of young jnen trained to simple carpentry In the gov ern men t schools. . "; . " Farm that would do eredlt to many a white man are here. . la the pine for ests we come upon hug tree failed by the Indians, and in the awmljl at the agency may oe eeen redraen ,dTlng in the log and turning them into lum ber aa skillfully as whites could do it Most of the heavy freighting through that region la don either by i Indian 0 with Indian , Theae people have learned aomethlng else withal When.JL-o-entering th resfervatieirlaaraummer I met, one of the t freight caravana coming nut, the' big, atrong horses wearing balls on their 1 tame, hich tinkled wulcally a they j came. h:; . -J ; Kecognlslhg tne, the' manager of the ' Outfit, a brawny, splendid looking In. j dlaa of full blood, stopped his team and tane forward slUt a creeUng, . i ;I am sotry to say that I o far for-J got my own manners as to offer . him my hand still covered with .its gauntlet But there waa no sucu thoughtlessness on his part.' With an absence of self -eonBciouanesa that would have done eredlt to a Chesterfield he had hi bead bared and his hand ungloved In an in stant te bid me a cordial welcome. One Indian whom I met on that res ervation, alsq a full blood, who began life as penniless bound boy, Is worth aew probably e.eoo. ail or whion naa been earned by his own Industry and na tive shrewdness, although h does not knowjma better af-thetlphabet from another. . He Is the local "cattle king," aa they call a Successful stock rancher In-the, west .v ' ;--.. !ff At a reception wnicn was given in my honor at , me . juamatn ooaraing echoot ; X saw the Indian boys choose their girl pertnere for the dance and lead them out with deportment enough to satisfy Mr, ' Turvey drop's v highest Waal, - . ( WOMEN IN SUPREME COURT From the Washington Herald, - Mlaa Ida, M. MfA-ere of thi city, who wa admitted ,t- practise . before the supreme court yesterday, la the twenty eighth member of the tender sex to at tain that distinction . ' i The first woman to become a member Of thati bar waa Belva A. Lockwood, who waa first denied the privilege on the ground there wa no authority for women to practise . before the court She then secured the passage of a spec ial law admitting women to the bar on an-qnaifootjng-wtth nT and aa soon aa the bill i wa signed she appeared and took the customary oath on March S, 185, ; n;;v rr-: r , J;- It was not until six year later that Mra. Lockwood lost her monopoly ef rights, and sine then applicants have appeared every year or ao, . They are scattered ail - the way - from Massa chusetts to California, each of which la Ui , residence o( jwa women wha'ar. member of the bar. .. This city has the greatest number six, Illinois and Wis cousin have four each, Nebraska throe, Pennsylvania two and Arizona, 'Connecticut- Missouri, New Jersey and Montana one each. All four , of ' the . Wisconsin members belong to one family Jdr. Kate Pier and her three daughters, who are active practitioners in Milwaukee. The eldest daughter, Mlaa Kate H. Pier, the first of the family to be admitted, had aa her sponsor the, , then Senator William F. VUae of Wisconsin,, Later her next sister was admitted oil her motion,' and afterward ahe - Introduced her mother and youngest sister on the same day, . , Comparatively -few of the women- ad mitted avail:, themselves of their priv ileges, the conspicuous exceptions being Mrs. Lockwood, who has appeared fre quently, and last term argued an Indian case, and Mrs. Barah Herring Soim of Tusoon City, Arlsona, who wae admitted about , a year ago, and. la the attorney of record iq d ease on call next week. . W Voytr, ln utt addiUou to the ranks, is a good looking young woman, apparently It er II year of age, and is the senior member of a law , firm here which make a specialty of prac tice before to eourt w clataja. , , - r " t ! Tre Fountain. " From the London Sphere, An extraordinary curiosity s te he seen in the vlUage: of Ounten e the Thun lake, which takea the form of a natural tree fountain, the water flowing continuously apparently from the trunk of the living tree, and shews the won derful vitality of out wood. - ' . , -; About 10 years ago the water of the spring waa conducted through a shaft and the , supply pip - was directed through the eut trunk ef a young pop. lar tree whioh was rammed in th ground. After a short time it became natent that tha trunk had etruck root and branchea were pushing themselve w,.ii fnrmnrii! at the cresent time a aplendid too growth Is to be eeen. The pife and, tree have become lBparablaj By Camilla Flammarlon. HAT the soul exists as a force we do not doubt; that It la ona with. , the eerebral atom, the prinolple of organisation, we may admit That ( It thus survive the dissolution of th body we conoetve. ; But what beoomes ef ItT Whither The greater number of soul are not even consciou of their existence. Of tha sixteen hundred million human be . Ingd who people our planet ninety-nine hundred the do not think. . ; f , ' What use should thy wake of Im- mortalltyT '-5' ;'' It1"',;- as the molecule ef iron noata with out being consciou of It la the bloods hleh thrcbe beneath the brow of - a Laasartlne or a Victor Slugo, or remains for a time attached t the aword of a - Caevar, aa moleeul ef hydrogen , shine In the light ef the foyer of the (: opera, or sink In the drop of water wallowed by a Ah v iato th dark V abysses of the , a d the living atom which have avr-thought alura er. ... , Te the eoul Wh think Belongs the gift ef tatelleetual Ufa. There are th guardiane of the Inheritance ef hu manity and augment It for the ages which are yet te earn. Were it not mat tne human souls. , who are eonaeloua ot their exlstenee and live by the spirit are Immortal, th whole history ef the earth would end In nothing, and tha entire ereation that . ef the greatest world, a well aa our own insigmncant planet, would "0a a ee!eus absurdity snore Vila and seii less than the , nteanast : worm - that erawla This ha a ralaon d'etre, and the universe should have none! . Can you picture to yourself myriads of worlds attaining t tha utmost aplen- dep of life and thought succeeding each other endleeely la the history of the sidereal universe for ao other end then te give- birth to hope perpetually de ceived, to grandaura perpetually da atreyedf It Is In vain that we would) humble ouraelvea, we cannot admit an alhllatlen aa the supreme end of prog ress, proved such by the whole history of nature. Souls are the seed of the - planetary populatlona. -1 t van aouis tnsn transport tnemseivea froM one planet to anotherr I hear seme one ask,'' ' ''"'.'iv .,.'-''VM isething I ae aimsult te comprehend aa that we are ignorant ef, while noth ing is simpler than what we know. - Whe wonders today at Boeing human thought Instantaneously . transmitted aeroaa eontlneata and ocean by tele graph wires and cables, er even with out these, by wireleaa telegraphy? . . Who wonders et seeing light trans mitted front one star to another with a velocity of 109,00 kilometres a second f Bealdea, only - ehlloaonhera - would be able to appreciate these marvels, the vulgar herd la surprised at nothing. . it ay means er some aew discovery W were abl tomorrow ta send mes sage to th Inhabitants of Kara, and to receive answers - In return, thre fourtha ef mankind would have ceased te wonder at It the day after. - Tea, living principle of force can transport themselves from one world to the ether, not always and not every where, assuredly not, nor all . of them. There are law and conditions to be ob- erved, : ' a, . My will by the aid ef ay muscles. has power te move sny area to threw a etenet If I take la fay hand a weight of twenty kilogramme; it still has power to move any arm. hut If X try to raise" a ton, It can aa longer do so. hiosan. at la year ef age. mad all who heaid hint fee) the spell of his musical genius and published, at eighteen, hla flrat twe works of son nets, while the greatest dramatist who ' haa ever lived, Shakespeare, had written nothing worthy of hla . nam before thirty. ' . .;,..?-- J- . We must not think the soul belongs to some supernatural world. There la nothing that is not In nature. Jt is scarcely more than a hundred thousand years,. sine - terreetrial humanity emerged from its chrysalis State of be ing. ..;-'; -....., ; vi,-;.J : v. During million of years, during the plmary secondary and territory periods, - tner was not upon eartn a single mind te appreciate the glorious spec- . taolea It offered, not a single human fiance te note thent- . ...... The progress ef evolution gradually developed front plant and animals souls of an inferior gradat man is of recent date upon the planet. Nature la a uneeaatnv process, the ' unlverei la a perpetual becoming, , a never ending ont. ., , - . ' LONGEST TELEGRAPH . Row I4n From London to Teheran I Worked, V ; ' Tretej t, Wartla's-Je-Orand. ? -Probably the longest telegraph cir cuit in the world has been in operation foy over a year en the lines ef the indo European Telegraph company, between London and Teheran, rerata'a capital. Thla circuit la e.OOO miles in ie and In Its course It traverses UX?orth ea for 100 mile and passe through Belgium, Germany, Russia, Turkey In Asia and Persia. The Wheatsfton auto matic system of transmission and re ception la employed on the circuit By , this system messages" are transmitted at the rate Of from 10 to 409 words a mln- , ute, according to the nature of the cir cuit. against SB to 16 words by man ual Morse transmission. ' On the London-Teheran circuit there - are .10, automatlo repeating ! stations, namely, at Lowestoft, Eroden, Berlin, Warsaw, Rouno, Odessa, Kertch, Suk-.,. .. bum Kaleb, Tlflls- and Taurla The businesB for and from Manchester and Liverpool la also handled direct with Teheran, K; - ":- ?-x ; 'Ai.; " It will be understood that automatlo . reneaters .virtually take the place of operatora at the repeating atatlons. In , the case of the circuit under oonaidara- r tton there are repeating tnatrumants and batteries at aoh ef the 10 repeating sUUena. A the Une ts divided into 11' prta, each part la comparatively short -.1 Hat an Judgea of Ivory. - - From th New Orleans Times-Democrat, The Ivory dealer , pointed to a half doien rats gnawing among tnViyellow heaoa of tueka and ivory fragmeSWln the sarret - - - . . ;: - "Tbez are quit tame, you see, no said. "Why shouldn't they bet The fact la, they are on my payroll. Tbey work for me. Their wages are a pound ef eheese and. a loaf of bread a week. 'Ivory dealer Ilk rata, tor rat are Ivory best Judgea, and without their help w should often want a higher price for had tusk than for. a fin one" , , -vW.: He took a fragment of Ivory from tha flooy end pointed t certain small fur row in it eurraoe, - ; - .. .;- . The rat did that," he aeld. ' .Those . furrow are a. proof ef th Ivory ex cellence, - Bats gnaw th Ivory that eoataia animal giue er gelatine, a ub- stance ef whioh they are fond. - And thla ' substance It is that make Ivory ex cellent yet a mere man can't tell . whether a tusk contain it er not 'The rats eaa tell. They are Ivory experts, tad. thi werk e cheap,1 ,