Tiic Com
Caiiriot Die
The New Xxample r in Toulard
Worn by Mrs. Chauiicey.
;:'.;.::;;-r;;:Depew,
Mrs. Elihu Root in a Spring Gown
of Black, Much Plaited, with
, Just a Touch of White.
The Square Cut Arm Hole in Miss
Root's Jumper Frock as an
1 Important Hint.
a Foreword of Fashion
With
About the" "Mushroomi
T
IHB "mushroom" in th fashlonabl
as In th vegetable world pro
greeeea la shape and lie. If It
keeps on t (oat all our under
sized women will look like the
toads of the t fairy books, completely
overshadowed by the toadstools.- And
ret Ita growth here baa by no moans
begun to attain lta full fashionable
perfection. ,
Over acroaa, In Paris, they ar wear
ing their chapeeux aet ao far far back.
and their hair 1 ao much fluffed way,
way forward, aKd pinned ao up, Hp
In
' tha middle of tha brlmal
. Well, w ehall see.
Like all extreme accentuations In a
node, the Immense, enormous, over
powering "mushroom growth la fear
fully unbecoming; to eome woman. ' One
of Natlca Rives' bridesmalda Just be
fore her wadding the other week wa
trying on ana of the newest ahapea
when aha tapped her feat In vexation,
snatched It off and swore thatt . . .,
"t can and Just won't wear ona of
these things with that detestable, unl-
veraal, tiresome, turn-down , brim
"Muahy's a good name for it, I say," .
Tet to noma faces the setting la real
ly very becoming and quite delightful.
It may get provoklngly tiresome, and
; Ilka all other accented things, get too
quickly, too common, but there will
be as many smart variations of thla
fashionable confection aa of tha edible.
The chef will put a, touch of piquancy
In his aauca and aj will Mile. Modiste
. In ' her sauciness. Each , win tie ais
tlnctively more desirable and colt
rood bit you may bo sure, , .
I wonder if there ever waa a woman
who wasn't really ' and truly fond of
foulard, s I noticed Mrs. Chauncey Do
pe w was wearing a very nice frock of It
the other day at Bherry's aunng juncn
' eon. and It seems to be making a atrong
bid for smart popularity.
A new weave of it by ' tha way, la
called messallne why mescaline, I'm
sure I don't know whether from the
name nf a city or the name of a sln
jier, but messallne It Is, and it's utterly
charming. I aver, in the way It drapes
and clings. ' Its clinging and draping
effects are softest and moat artistic.
Z find much Joy In it, , . , ,-
An Effect in French Poulard.
Mra. Depew'a gown waa not of this
variety, however. It waa a French fou
lard. ; It had a ground of white with
a, very '"stunning" design In blue and
dull green over it all. . The colors, I
thought, exactly , suited her and ' were
a. decidedly good change from tha plain
array and blue she usually wears. I
.always think somehow of Mrs. Depaw
as such a very well groomed woman i
and she's so fresh looking that aha eeuld
successfully allow herself mora latitude
In tha way of color and design, I'm
aura. Why does aha nearly always al
low herself to atlck to neutral tints
and auch conservative styles. I trust
' phe will heed my sincere suggestion.
' The gown I quite fell In love with
had one of those long, perfectly plain
' skirts which look ao deceptively sim
ple and so easy to make. In reality
they should never be attempted by any
but a very experienced creator, far la
the knowledge of exactly how to cut
and drapa tha material Ilea their com
. rilete1 suecea. Thia ;axiri naa ao
in iittT tucka at the waist and t
foil away in folds and draptngs w,hlfch
vera most satisfying to one s eye.
It doesn't seem possible to build a
waist this 1 year without eonatructlng
an widerwalst' of white. To .try to do
this would be something like attempt
ing, to erect a building without laying
3the cornerstone, f
Mrs. Depewe walat was Square cut
and under the -abort','; loose -foulard
sleeves an under waist of cluny and
filet lace peeped out. This, by tha way,
is - cornblmrttonff- laeen-mneb-af fact
mi Just now, .very correct ana most
umart '
Tha walxt waa double breasted and
fastened with six large buttons of cut
ateel. The deep swathed girdle was
of Uffeta allk tha exact shade of 1ihe
lslua figura f the foulard. All' these
details I am father rushing through
because I am bo anxious to telt you
about tha trimming, whioh really waa
the motif of -tha whole symphony.
' This trimming was the dearest, daln-
!At I am temptea to say -cutest".
thing, and what da you think U was?
t v u mr 4 " 0 i :. m -.." - - - laaaaAir 'g. .'. . ft ... RTIV m. W I
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a ' a v. - if. it - -w. - a . j i -rru . - . ar aaaacim i a a aaaas. . aw m' "nar . a .aa a m w a . a bl' ar .
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? ' '' 1 VgSj ' y Jfl if ' v n. lAl ' ' i v tner wardrobe. , . .
1 . 'v ' y Crrench Foulard Gown of Blu and Dull Green. Worn by Mra. Chaun-
1111 I I 1 . AW . ' -
.. 'MM I B It 1 . ' B . S 11 . a . " a .. i V t . . : I
"ITf " MM 1 .11 1 1 1 V'
WW I MM I 111 1 a X.
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i r a i ii s i - a a a m'wi x x iv ' i
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IIII I III 1
Villi B I 1 Vft-WI
Walat, .Skirt n
Just lota and lota of tiny little out
tea buckle strung on ha If -Inch blue
velvet rlbbona! They. were put qulta
oloaa together and. fairly twinkled at
ona! ' , i
And on tha other aide of thla twink
ling, buckle-strung velvet was a row
of narrow black soutache braid. This
trimming was uaed to outline tha
equare-eut neck and waa applied right
down the front of the waist. . It also
gave Just a note af decided accent to
tha edgea of tha foulard aleevea,: whloh
war slaahed up tb oMter side and
A-fra, Ellhu Eoofa Smart Gown, Deilsned with
. Sleeve All in Plait.
- A A-Back Vltw of Mra. Boofa Gown.
caught acroaa with two Straps over the
white undewleeves.) ' , ,. T--. -i .
What a charming, coor fashion hla
ona of sheer white gulmpe and BUevea
promlaea to be this summer. ' ;
Wa can breathe and fl deleetabl
In a bit of dlaphanoua laoa, lightly up
held by a mora slender bona or two. In
our afternoon frocks we shall dispense
with collars altoaether. for tha collar
less Dutch neck ta to ba again tha thing.
This la a fashion becoming to nearly
vary one, thought Of course ona who Is
blessed with youth and pretty neck
will ba doubly blessed. J advise you
to aea toft thaV your masaeuaa spends
aartloular care on you neck just now,
Don't hesitate. . Your reward will coma
later on. 'xtt'" V"''''''''''..
I ran over to Washington, aa l toid
you last waek. to peep In at Bennlngs.
catch a whiff at lilacs If they bad burat
and. Incidentally, I eaw a gown that ie
most worthy of hotlce from tha pen of
the Recording Angel of Fashion. Mra.
Ellhu Boot waa Inside tha frock, ,Jt
waa biaok, ana; it waa a purposely and
scrupulously chosen gown of long lines.
It was what one might call, in very
practical words, a plaited dress in fact,'
I don't think I ever saw a dreia aulte
ao much plaited, r j ,
Waist, skirt, sleeves an wart aom
poacd of plaits. o , . .
A Smart Little Jumper Fock. , '
Tha material tatd -was a peculiarly
sllky supple' veiling, firm and yet not
stiff. Bur taf f at tllk played quite aa
important; a Prt in the affect of the
whole for the edge of; each plait waa
narrowly bound with, taffeta allk.' Pr-nament8otJaffetaLUlt-wera.uae4--a
both sKlrt and waist .
The waist ; was entirely plaited, A
yoke of cluny and valenaiennes lace In
white worked in together and further
ornamented wlthi applications of Irish
orochet lace, extended over the should
ers to the . sleeves, The veiling came
qr on to the front of the silk in little
points, each point edged with a tiny
piping of taffeta,, ''r:--fiyf:ri-
Tnere was a suggestion or-auspenaer
effect In the shaped pteeea of veiling
weloh. ran from the belt to near the
top of the ahoulder, where they ended.!
These "pleeea were bound with taf fete
and bad seme cleverly contrived rosette-
like ornament of , tarreta taw .upon
them at Intervale, graduating In elae
from the ahoulder down. :(;;- ,
v The back of the walat duplicated the
rant. Jolnlna tha ' straps over the
shoulder were two very narrow banda
of ailkiwhloh ran over the white lace
of the yoke.-, The sleeves were oioseiy
nlAitcd and ended In a euff of lace, The
deen lrdle waa of taffeta and taffeta
ornaments were, again uaed to fasten
th anda of the aliened Pieces to the
belt. Two flower-ltke ornament ef
allk, from which hung bunches of little
taffeta, "danaiers" were piacea jus e-
lew the yoke on the front of the walat
It ought to Interest you to know how
the rosette-like ornaments were maae.
Rounds of the silk were "out and on
them were aewed gathered taffeta baby
ribbon "ronnd and ground following
tha outline of the tarreta oisk. unite
simple, ta U notT et the effect waa
po clever. si .t-.w"
Skirts run to extreme tm year, wa
either trail i our long garments in a
beautiful simplicity of lonr llnea, with
out tucks, without plaits or ornaments
of any-kind, or else we wrap ourselves
In yards and yards or stun, lucaea,
platted, embroidered and braided. -Ton
could hardly ; find ' better " ex
amples of these two .style than In the
BsiiTS OI jura, myitr 0 .u . iwv. ,
gowns, ror Mra. kooib bkjti am no
belong to the simple class.- It bad, of
course, to conform to the lines of the
waist The ahaped pteeea which ornat
mented the v waist were i continued on
the aklrt, gradually widening front belt
to hem. .Theae bad the- same rosette
ornamanta-ia reduatad-siaaV-Around
the bottom of , the krt wa a wide,
plain band of " allk. Above thi i two
band of the Telling, attached at the
upper edge only, were placed. The
upper one of these twe banda bore the
rosettes. v The back of . the . skirt had
two shaped piece similar to the front
These continued the line. Of the walat
As I have said before,f clever dress
for a woman of few Inches, But let
her Uo is, however, -t'dlvlnely tall,"
beware. Thosa long up-and-down line
are not for her. f
Jumper dresses, mark me, are golna
to be worn thla summer by all classes
and ages of women. It would ba a prat
ty aafe wager that It a woman a ward
robe held but three dressea. two Of them
would be of the Jumper tyla Theee
dressea are o slmpl and ao youthful
looking that they are, capable Of taking
yeara fromjhe wearer's age. And what
woman object to that? Not you, mv
a&ra, ana cemiwy nox ; ;
And, by the Way I oaughi a glimpse
ef a very (mart little Jumper dreaa dea
tlned for wear later on by Ml Ithel
Boot, the secretary's daughter. It was
mad of a dellclou atrawberry-1 lee
cream " plnk-t shade ef llnea which
should pro? most becoming to Miss
Root' dark eye and hair, I know, that
one heara a great deal about M IM Root
cleverness and sorlousnes and all that,
dui ana naa, 100, e rvy xaminina leva
for pretty -olothe. The skirt of the
Jumper dres waa a plaited one. with a
box plait down the eenter of the front
and two aid plait en either aid turn
ing baoki then a pllm breadth. The
next group" of plait turned toward the
front, whion gave a very gooe; awing ta
the plaited pert and accentuated the
plain piece.- Two tuck ran around the
skirt and a simple StltQhed nam finished
the bottom. . i - .
When you are arranging with your
modiste for your Jumper frock be ur
that the armholea are aquare-eut, for
the aquare-cut armhole la now quite the
mode. It, a tha parUcuar attention .to
these little detail which ta auoh a val
uable asset in amartnesa. , - v
In Mis Roof dras the armhole waa
aauare-cut and . tha walat and r, little
sleeves were all ut la one. ; Over the
shoulder ran narrow atitohed tuck to
Jrlve the necessary girlish fullneaa. The
ow-cut neck, which ran down In front
In a deep U waa outlined with a three-
auarter-incn. Dana or . mi linen. Tne
eut-out TJ was crossed by three bands
of the linen, allowing the white gulmpe
of lawn ana lace to he eeen tnrougn.
Each band waa decorated with Just the
littlest, daintiest apray of rrenon em
broidery in white. The linen aleevea,
which were so small they ware hardly
worthy of the name, had the same em
broidery, : The sleeve of laern and lace
ended In a straight ruff Just below the
elbow. The waist and skirt were Joined
together under e belt ef jtnea, .
CHANGES IN INDIAN LIFE
- From Youth' Companion.
' " Wo hear a great deal of the Indian
a a vanishing race.- In one sense this
is a correct description. ' By alow but
sure BtagfB the Indiana whom Cooper
IdealUed and Catlln painted are passing
from view, and the great nations whom
"the early explorer of our country dis
covered occupying their original hunt
ing ground are breaking rv-.
But the vanishing race and the dla
tnembered natlone are atill numerous
enoufrh to make a pretty fair Showing
for thcroneivea.
Tho rtory of Captain Jack, the lr
reconcUaUle Modoe , leader, Is still toM
frHa-itm ttr ttme ta prrnTfluch Ip the
same spirit in which the historical writ,
axa now and then revive bloody mem
erte of Callrula and Nero. Today a
visit to the, remote Klamath 'reserva
tlnn in Oregon, wlire a remnant of the
.lodne trilie, once aa savage aa any, haa
- for v6riA jtait nai m bom, U a
revelation Neat house, well built and
sensibly equipped, are found on every
side, the ' handiwork of young jnen
trained to simple carpentry In the gov
ern men t schools. . "; . "
Farm that would do eredlt to many
a white man are here. . la the pine for
ests we come upon hug tree failed by
the Indians, and in the awmljl at the
agency may oe eeen redraen ,dTlng
in the log and turning them into lum
ber aa skillfully as whites could do it
Most of the heavy freighting through
that region la don either by i Indian
0 with Indian
, Theae people have learned aomethlng
else withal When.JL-o-entering th
resfervatieirlaaraummer I met, one of
the t freight caravana coming nut, the'
big, atrong horses wearing balls on their 1
tame, hich tinkled wulcally a they j
came. h:; . -J
; Kecognlslhg tne, the' manager of the '
Outfit, a brawny, splendid looking In. j
dlaa of full blood, stopped his team and
tane forward slUt a creeUng, . i
;I am sotry to say that I o far for-J
got my own manners as to offer . him
my hand still covered with .its gauntlet
But there waa no sucu thoughtlessness
on his part.' With an absence of self -eonBciouanesa
that would have done
eredlt to a Chesterfield he had hi bead
bared and his hand ungloved In an in
stant te bid me a cordial welcome.
One Indian whom I met on that res
ervation, alsq a full blood, who began
life as penniless bound boy, Is worth
aew probably e.eoo. ail or whion naa
been earned by his own Industry and na
tive shrewdness, although h does not
knowjma better af-thetlphabet from
another. . He Is the local "cattle king,"
aa they call a Successful stock rancher
In-the, west .v ' ;--.. !ff
At a reception wnicn was given in
my honor at , me . juamatn ooaraing
echoot ; X saw the Indian boys choose
their girl pertnere for the dance and
lead them out with deportment enough
to satisfy Mr, ' Turvey drop's v highest
Waal, - . (
WOMEN IN SUPREME COURT
From the Washington Herald, -
Mlaa Ida, M. MfA-ere of thi city, who
wa admitted ,t- practise . before the
supreme court yesterday, la the twenty
eighth member of the tender sex to at
tain that distinction . ' i
The first woman to become a member
Of thati bar waa Belva A. Lockwood,
who waa first denied the privilege on
the ground there wa no authority for
women to practise . before the court
She then secured the passage of a spec
ial law admitting women to the bar on
an-qnaifootjng-wtth nT and aa soon
aa the bill i wa signed she appeared and
took the customary oath on March S,
185, ; n;;v rr-: r , J;-
It was not until six year later that
Mra. Lockwood lost her monopoly ef
rights, and sine then applicants have
appeared every year or ao, . They are
scattered ail - the way - from Massa
chusetts to California, each of which la
Ui , residence o( jwa women wha'ar.
member of the bar. .. This city has the
greatest number six, Illinois and Wis
cousin have four each, Nebraska
throe, Pennsylvania two and Arizona,
'Connecticut- Missouri, New Jersey and
Montana one each.
All four , of ' the . Wisconsin members
belong to one family Jdr. Kate Pier
and her three daughters, who are active
practitioners in Milwaukee. The eldest
daughter, Mlaa Kate H. Pier, the first
of the family to be admitted, had aa
her sponsor the, , then Senator William
F. VUae of Wisconsin,, Later her next
sister was admitted oil her motion,' and
afterward ahe - Introduced her mother
and youngest sister on the same day, .
, Comparatively -few of the women- ad
mitted avail:, themselves of their priv
ileges, the conspicuous exceptions being
Mrs. Lockwood, who has appeared fre
quently, and last term argued an Indian
case, and Mrs. Barah Herring Soim of
Tusoon City, Arlsona, who wae admitted
about , a year ago, and. la the attorney of
record iq d ease on call next week.
. W Voytr, ln utt addiUou to the
ranks, is a good looking young woman,
apparently It er II year of age, and
is the senior member of a law , firm
here which make a specialty of prac
tice before to eourt w clataja. , , - r
" t ! Tre Fountain.
" From the London Sphere,
An extraordinary curiosity s te he
seen in the vlUage: of Ounten e the
Thun lake, which takea the form of a
natural tree fountain, the water flowing
continuously apparently from the trunk
of the living tree, and shews the won
derful vitality of out wood. - ' . , -;
About 10 years ago the water of the
spring waa conducted through a shaft
and the , supply pip - was directed
through the eut trunk ef a young pop.
lar tree whioh was rammed in th
ground. After a short time it became
natent that tha trunk had etruck root
and branchea were pushing themselve
w,.ii fnrmnrii! at the cresent time a
aplendid too growth Is to be eeen. The
pife and, tree have become lBparablaj
By Camilla Flammarlon.
HAT the soul exists as a force we
do not doubt; that It la ona with.
, the eerebral atom, the prinolple of
organisation, we may admit That
( It thus survive the dissolution of
th body we conoetve. ;
But what beoomes ef ItT Whither
The greater number of soul are not
even consciou of their existence. Of
tha sixteen hundred million human be .
Ingd who people our planet ninety-nine
hundred the do not think. . ; f , '
What use should thy wake of Im-
mortalltyT '-5' ;'' It1"',;-
as the molecule ef iron noata with
out being consciou of It la the bloods
hleh thrcbe beneath the brow of - a
Laasartlne or a Victor Slugo, or remains
for a time attached t the aword of a -
Caevar, aa moleeul ef hydrogen ,
shine In the light ef the foyer of the (:
opera, or sink In the drop of water
wallowed by a Ah v iato th dark V
abysses of the , a d the living
atom which have avr-thought alura
er. ... ,
Te the eoul Wh think Belongs the
gift ef tatelleetual Ufa. There are th
guardiane of the Inheritance ef hu
manity and augment It for the ages
which are yet te earn.
Were it not mat tne human souls. ,
who are eonaeloua ot their exlstenee
and live by the spirit are Immortal, th
whole history ef the earth would end
In nothing, and tha entire ereation that .
ef the greatest world, a well aa our
own insigmncant planet, would "0a a
ee!eus absurdity snore Vila and seii
less than the , nteanast : worm - that
erawla This ha a ralaon d'etre, and
the universe should have none! .
Can you picture to yourself myriads
of worlds attaining t tha utmost aplen-
dep of life and thought succeeding each
other endleeely la the history of the
sidereal universe for ao other end then
te give- birth to hope perpetually de
ceived, to grandaura perpetually da
atreyedf It Is In vain that we would)
humble ouraelvea, we cannot admit an
alhllatlen aa the supreme end of prog
ress, proved such by the whole history
of nature. Souls are the seed of the -
planetary populatlona. -1 t
van aouis tnsn transport tnemseivea
froM one planet to anotherr I hear
seme one ask,'' ' ''"'.'iv .,.'-''VM
isething I ae aimsult te comprehend
aa that we are ignorant ef, while noth
ing is simpler than what we know. -
Whe wonders today at Boeing human
thought Instantaneously . transmitted
aeroaa eontlneata and ocean by tele
graph wires and cables, er even with
out these, by wireleaa telegraphy? . .
Who wonders et seeing light trans
mitted front one star to another with a
velocity of 109,00 kilometres a second f
Bealdea, only - ehlloaonhera - would be
able to appreciate these marvels, the
vulgar herd la surprised at nothing. .
it ay means er some aew discovery
W were abl tomorrow ta send mes
sage to th Inhabitants of Kara, and
to receive answers - In return, thre
fourtha ef mankind would have ceased
te wonder at It the day after. -
Tea, living principle of force can
transport themselves from one world to
the ether, not always and not every
where, assuredly not, nor all . of them.
There are law and conditions to be ob-
erved, : ' a, .
My will by the aid ef ay muscles.
has power te move sny area to threw a
etenet If I take la fay hand a weight of
twenty kilogramme; it still has power
to move any arm. hut If X try to raise"
a ton, It can aa longer do so.
hiosan. at la year ef age. mad all
who heaid hint fee) the spell of his
musical genius and published, at
eighteen, hla flrat twe works of son
nets, while the greatest dramatist who '
haa ever lived, Shakespeare, had written
nothing worthy of hla . nam before
thirty. ' . .;,..?-- J- .
We must not think the soul belongs
to some supernatural world. There la
nothing that is not In nature. Jt is
scarcely more than a hundred thousand
years,. sine - terreetrial humanity
emerged from its chrysalis State of be
ing. ..;-'; -....., ; vi,-;.J : v.
During million of years, during the
plmary secondary and territory periods, -
tner was not upon eartn a single
mind te appreciate the glorious spec- .
taolea It offered, not a single human
fiance te note thent- . ......
The progress ef evolution gradually
developed front plant and animals souls
of an inferior gradat man is of recent
date upon the planet.
Nature la a uneeaatnv process, the '
unlverei la a perpetual becoming, , a
never ending ont. ., , - . '
LONGEST TELEGRAPH .
Row I4n From London to Teheran
I Worked, V ;
' Tretej t, Wartla's-Je-Orand. ? -Probably
the longest telegraph cir
cuit in the world has been in operation
foy over a year en the lines ef the indo
European Telegraph company, between
London and Teheran, rerata'a capital.
Thla circuit la e.OOO miles in ie
and In Its course It traverses UX?orth
ea for 100 mile and passe through
Belgium, Germany, Russia, Turkey In
Asia and Persia. The Wheatsfton auto
matic system of transmission and re
ception la employed on the circuit By ,
this system messages" are transmitted at
the rate Of from 10 to 409 words a mln- ,
ute, according to the nature of the cir
cuit. against SB to 16 words by man
ual Morse transmission. '
On the London-Teheran circuit there -
are .10, automatlo repeating ! stations,
namely, at Lowestoft, Eroden, Berlin,
Warsaw, Rouno, Odessa, Kertch, Suk-.,. ..
bum Kaleb, Tlflls- and Taurla The
businesB for and from Manchester and
Liverpool la also handled direct with
Teheran, K; - ":- ?-x ; 'Ai.; "
It will be understood that automatlo .
reneaters .virtually take the place of
operatora at the repeating atatlons. In ,
the case of the circuit under oonaidara- r
tton there are repeating tnatrumants and
batteries at aoh ef the 10 repeating
sUUena. A the Une ts divided into 11'
prta, each part la comparatively short
-.1 Hat an Judgea of Ivory. - -
From th New Orleans Times-Democrat,
The Ivory dealer , pointed to a half
doien rats gnawing among tnViyellow
heaoa of tueka and ivory fragmeSWln
the sarret - - - . . ;: -
"Tbez are quit tame, you see, no
said. "Why shouldn't they bet The
fact la, they are on my payroll. Tbey
work for me. Their wages are a pound
ef eheese and. a loaf of bread a week.
'Ivory dealer Ilk rata, tor rat are
Ivory best Judgea, and without their
help w should often want a higher
price for had tusk than for. a fin
one" , , -vW.:
He took a fragment of Ivory from tha
flooy end pointed t certain small fur
row in it eurraoe, - ; - .. .;- .
The rat did that," he aeld. ' .Those .
furrow are a. proof ef th Ivory ex
cellence, - Bats gnaw th Ivory that
eoataia animal giue er gelatine, a ub-
stance ef whioh they are fond. - And thla '
substance It is that make Ivory ex
cellent yet a mere man can't tell .
whether a tusk contain it er not
'The rats eaa tell. They are Ivory
experts, tad. thi werk e cheap,1 ,