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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Oct. 21, 1903)
-V-'lJI l ' I J 1 l . f II lllll'ii II I 1 I M i 1i 11 II ' .1 ... . I W"-v A . I , Ill II M M Mill II II 1 II III . WZ llll. illll II , HE WAIST DINE IN ART AND FASHION - . i ..4 .... ' i ' ' ' ' ' 'i i ji 1 ,i ' v' I rC' kk: ; Cl THE AMERICAN WAIST.LINE. S . . . 'W- V . -'' THE ENGLI8H WAIST LINE. , . - n , - ::k , i Wi:; VfMAj , i 1 ... .. , , , , ; . , . , i No Swearing While" Working Tho novel provision In th contract for th erection of new Methodist ohurch at Logansport Ind., to the effect that no roan employed on any part of the construction. shAU either swear or drink while so employed, is causinr o end of inconvenience to John E.. Barnes, the contractor. His first . trouble re salted from disinclination on the part of men. even though they were not ad dicted to swearing or drinking, to bind themselves absolute y to, refrain from the exercise of the privilege should seeming; necessity for it arise. . The churoh people wanted a provision In the contract to the effect that the mechanics employed . upon : It should neither chew-, nor . smoke.- but no con tractor would bid on the work under such conditions, and chewing and smok- inr are snot prohibited. The building -committee would not recede from its demands regarding swearing and drink Ag, nd though Mr. Barnes, finally signed the contract under his bid for the work, it was with many misgivings as to the result v , the day before he began ' ' work he ' called hi men around him ' and told them : the conditions under which the contract had been secured. Some of the men who have worked for hlm"Tor years shook their heads ominously: and con fessod that they did not know whether or not they could stay -on the Job If they were not permitted, to swean One of them asked that a "swearing line' be drawn, within .whkh .oaths must not . be uttered, and the workmen be required to go outside of this if they wished to. tractor, thought this might be Construed into n evasion of ;the eontract, and in sisted that the men pledge him to ab" stain absolutely from .profanity while -working on the Job.' ' -r . ' ; t '."The stonemasons who were employed . to lay the foundatldns positively refused ' to be bound by suah conditions, and It was 'arranged , to get , out the stone t the yards of the company, and all the ' ; cutting1 will be 1 done ' some distance ; ' away,, from ' the "consecrated ground,"' as the men have come to call the site of the new fdiflae. The same artifice, was employed by some' of the men Who are ' getting out the heavier timbers for the new structure," that work being . done 10 squares from the site; and the tim bers being ready for putting in place when they are delivered at the church. The contract not only requires that - the workmen shall refrain rrom swear ing and , drinking, , but ; Mr. .Barnes agrees to r discharge any " man who is guilty of either offense while employed on the structure. So far he has had 7 but ene caeto deal with, and that was a young man who had been In his em ploy but a few ; months. The young carpenter Struck his finger with the pole of-'hia hatchet, and before he thought he uttered the fatal "cuss word, The foreman reported ' the act' and, tried to ' excuse the offender, but Mr. Barnes said . he had made tho contract in' good faith, ' that the men had all agreed to its term and that he could not make any excep tions to the ruleespecially when the FASHIONS FRESH FROM NEW YORK & i - , (By "Maude Griffin.) 4 : New York, Oct 21. One of the most positive signs that ' the - fashions' are yearly accommodating themselves " more to the dictates of .common sense is found in the fact that each season brings a smaller surplus, of needless 'novelties. Time was when one was -almost afraid to buy anything at the beginnings of the siderably and with a few touches of lace of white It is possible for almost' anyone to wear' a blue velvet gown. . r A somewhat ornate design has the skirt trimmed with bands of the same shade taffeta stitched on to simulate a flounced Although it is. somewhat too pro nounced for entire gowns, . orange is a color that will be very much worn this season. One sees it on many of the smart waists, hats and garnitures, es nenlallv whera white or brown n renom inates. Nothing makes a more effective an 0Pei Mexican stltcnmg done at home gown that displays more than ordinary originality is russet brown voile over apple green taffeta. The skirt has three partly tucked flounces bordered with a wide fold of cloth and joined with with effective. Especially Is this tru. of the blue-greys. . An Important walking dress of steel blue has a deeper blue plaid threaded through it so closely that the lighter tone is scarcely perceptible.- The contrast is marked by a nappy silk cord of black runnlnor throuirh thn Cheviot eiiect,. mere oemg apparently inree or me defining a larger square than that out- lining for the exquisite nut shades than embroidery silk. These flounces open flounces. A plaited velvet skirt Is rather lined by the darker blue. orange taffeta. over a plaited front piece of the voile, a daring adventure even for a slender The skirt l. made milt nialn nhnut th A handsome seoarate bodice of white The bodice has a partly tucked loose season for fear that after the modes fiacre, but such was successfuyy ae- hips and fits faultlessly. Around the bot- chiffon generally trimmed with thread ESton effect falling over a girdle of rus had been authoritatively settled the pur- compllshed . in this toilette. The plaits torn It Is finished with a solitary fold of lace has a dainty bertha effect fastened set brown panne. Under the Eton effect chases made early would not be adequate extend all around the waist, but are the same material piped with velvet, at the front with a curiously twisted knot is a waist of white lace over ,chlffon. The for the demands of an ultra -smart ward- stitched very flat. Above the knees the flounce Is headed of two shades pf orange-colored velvet bishop sleeves have a top piece of the robe. The bodice to cloae-fltting and Is plaited with three rather wide anDiled tucks, but Descending from the corsage Is a double lace and this is bordered very simply mowaaays lew cnanges are maae ana uove aeep giraie io meei a yone iaia . the, velvet Piping Is not repeated here. twist of the velvet wnlch meets a giraie wim a strip oi Drown emoromery wnicn they are comparatively speaking, . lncon- In transverse, folds of blue satin. Bor- The blouse has only a medium deep of the same-caught with a handsome aering tne-giraie in clerical effect are hip-flounce and this is brimmed simply gold buckle set wjth rough topazes, bands of blue and ?white embroidery- with a stitched fold of the' cheviot. The The increasing width of girdles has touched here and there with dull orange, girdle is of steel blue satin faced cloth caused a flutter of fashion's domain, while the border of the emnroldery is of stitched with black silk braid. It is Madame La Mode seems determined to a lighter shade of blue. Medallions of rather ' narrower than most of the belts make it an important part of winter There is a noticeable revival of velvet rich cream lace are appllqued over the seen lust now. and clasDS at the front dress trimmings, and there is. almost a costumes this fall and they are seen in plaited yoke which Is 'also finished with with a. handsome blue and gold enameled general outcry against it because, of its charming new; colorings. Blue is one oanas or ine emoroiaery. . ,Tne tops or buckle. ... - exactions. The only figure to wnicn it is Of the prettiest. 4This peculiar shade of the sleeves are trimmed with lace and A distinctive feature of the blouse Is a possible Is a very slender, long-walsted bluish .violet has been used in former embroidery and below the elbow the full shoulder trimminc of verv - ODen-work one., and even when, if the wearer is too years, but its favor has been uncertain puffs are caught into a tight fitting platted braid stitched over blue taffeta. This ex- tall, the style is not certain to be becom- because generally speaking the color Is cun with , stitchings oi the silk used to tends from the. collar over the shoulder ?ing. Where the figure will permit how- trim tne sKtrt. seam and down the sleeves to the elbows ever, no details lend more cachet to a A Ijouis XIII silk beaver hat. trimmed where it is finished with silk passemen terie. Medallions of the same braid fin ished with large buttons matching the sequential. Of course eVery smart open ing ias Its extreme modes, but as these are. intended principally ror display, no one Is expected to- follow them. unbecoming.- Previously its greatest vogue" was in millinery effects where there ' was a better chance of getting it away -from the face by massing bunches of.bluettes around the crown or at the. back of the brim. The effort to reprp with black plumes tume. completes - the , cos- gown. extends over the bodice forming a border for the rich lace yoke. Deep cuffs of silk from whloh fall folds of soft lace com plete a puff of voile falling from shoulder to wrist It is predicted that later In the sea son fashion will revert to very high stocks and collars. It has been found that the narrow comfortable bands that are now so highly favored will not be able to withstand the cold of winter and fashion does not care to be responsible for sore throats and aching chests. Al' though collars may be high, however. they will be very soft and most delicate An Elephant! at the Dentist's Smart contourleres are extending the supports being used to nold them up. buckle on the lrdle adorn the blouse province of plaits bove the belt-line to Anything stiff and formidable looking It would he difficult In And .nvthlnir front RolnW th lhmr tha sleeves are many or tne DOdlCe. THIS idea is ex- will DO aiscaraea as ungainly ana uu- duce the tint in velvet which has - not ' prettier than the plaid cheviots which made in full puffs with three tucks and empllfled more in at home gowns though, feminine, but there are so many dainty met wltn success 'until this season, is are the most formidable rival of velvet fathered Intn a. cuff of braided cloth. An than In street toilettes, because the pll- designs to choose from that one. stands dpubly commendable,- because the cold for street gowns. Those In two or three ermine toque trimmed with blue silk and able fabrics used for house toilettes are little chance, of falling into such a sar- metallic lustre vhas ; been softened con- shades of the samff color are extremely ostrich pompons la worn, with the gown, more adaptable to piaua ana wins, ah ton&i error. work was just in a beginning. - The young -carpenter took his discharge gracefully, but said that It was. such a relief to swear when he struck his finger that he did not regret It . even though it deprived him of work. ' ;- -One of the church officers said that the building committee had a double purpose in placing such a provision in the contracts In. the first place, the swearing 'and drinking habits were fool ish and under the circumstances crim inal, and iathe-second It seemed the worst - sacrilege to have,- men swearing in .the construction of. house which was to- be dedicated te the worship "of the ILord.- Her' added that Mr. Barnes had 'talc en the contract with . a full understanding, of the conditions,- and it was expected that they would be com plied, with 1n spirit and letter. , ' i. "And there was a third reason- that Influences us," said another member, of the committee,- 'land it should be taken into account . Swearing la a foolish vice ' and drinking is even worse. Men at work on buildings here take the name pf God in vain without thinking, and it is no uncommon thing to see them drinking beer at their work. We wanted them to know that neither swearing nor drinking . is necessary to their comfort or-their happiness and we insisted on the provision, Suppose now that these men abstain both from swearing and drinking while on this ' work. - Won't they see that Jt can .be done easily, and if. they are sensible, won't they .refrain from it in the future? ' That : is the Ithinif-we are trying to teach them, and that is one- reason for put Ung. such a provision in the building contract We just wanted to show them that the thing can be done." . - - r,:- If Ton Would Uv a Century. i From the New . Tork Sun. , Every woman, so the story goea, car ries with her aigns which to the experi enced tell ,. whether. sher. will Uve Jong. Here are some of the supposd signs of longevity: ' . ,- The eyes must be round and wide rather than long and narrow," and ; if thev are hrmrn-er nasei lire win do longer than If they were black or vio let. - The neck must be full and pillar-like, rather than slender. The brows must be ample and slope back slightly from an absolute perpen-. dleular. The. head must be wide behind ana over the ears. The mouth-must be full and well -set and the chin sauare and Arm. - The - nose - must - be wide and -full through Its whole length, and have open, easily dilating nostrils. This Indicates a good heart and good lungs. , ; lf; the ,or!nce of the ear is lowr denot ing a deeply seated brain, there Is a bet ter chance of long life, , .. 'r The woman who appears taller In pro portion heir sitting down than- when standing has a' good chance to live long. It the body Is Ions In proportion to the , limbs, the heart, lungs and digestive or gans are large, The pulse should beat with full and normal stroke. Limbs and joints should be large and well formed, the flesh neither too hard nor too soft Those who resemble their mothers may expect to live longest and the first born is longer lived than other children. For example, a sister born 10 years be fore another sister la supposed to have six years' greater duration of life. ' It is well known that women live longer than men, but so. far there is no satisfactory explanation, of why this is bo. -Out of a million people. 216 women and, only 8 J men reach the age of 100 years. , Maybe . tt ; is because a woman gets more . sleep 'than a man, for: the longer a person sleeps the longer will life last . Nearly all long-lived people have been great Sleepers. When M. de Lesseps was ' on the cen .he would sleep for 20 hours at a stretch. - Glad- 18 hours a day might live 100 years. .One of the secrets of. longevity, there fore, is to take plenty of sleep. -Other rules which ..the seeker after length, of days should observe are these: . Sleep on the light side. . - Keep the bedroom window open all night Don't : take a cold tub In the morn' ing. but a bath the temperature of the body. Don't allow any pets In the living room. They , may carry disease germs. Take .dally, exercise, in the open air, and live in the country; if not all the year, at least for Ave or six months. Occasionally change your occupation. ' Take frequent and short holidays. Watch the three D's drinking water; dampness and drains. " , t . Limit your ambitions. " Keep your temper. , Worry less, work more; ride less, walk; moret -drlnk less, - breathe -more; tone averaged It hours sleep a day. A I eat less, chew more; preach less, prac- maner woman who would learn to sleep i tic more.. From the New Tork Sun. A queer looking procession moved up Sixth avenue yesterday afternoon. Jus what It was no one seemed to know. The policemen along the avenue de- scribed it as a "jay oireus, The- out fit consisted of three men, two mulea ' drawing wagons, four billy goats and- ' an elephant that trailed along In they rear. - At Sixth avenue and Thirty-sixth? street there la a dentist's establishment The dentist, in addition to advertising his business by fancy signs, has a gaily dressed negro on the sidewalk to hand . out cards to pedestrians. The negro is known along the' avenue as "Jim Cards." Yesterday Jim's . raiment waa particularly gay. He wore a tall haft with a red silk band and a bright red spike-tail coat. His trousers were oft the "Uncle Sam" variety. The elephant got one look at "Jim.! and then, with a snort made for the; card man. The negro fled up the stairs, four steps at a time. He didn't stop in the dental parlor. Instead, ho went' to the roof and hastily discarded the hat and coat Meanwhile the elephant was trvliur to follow. He got his head and trunk into) the doorway. There he stuck fast snorting and squealing so loudly that people for two blocks around ran out ' to see who wss being killed. "Jim" peered over the roof, but ofr course the elephant didn't see him. All the same, he stamped and shook hla frame so much that a negress in tho street yelled to "Jim:" ' Ton git off dat roof. He's done gwlna to tore de house down." "Jim" traveled to another roof, but soon the men in the procession tackled the elephant with hooks and got him out of the . doorway. . It took much, prodding to get the beast to continue up the avenue, but by the time he reached Thirty-fourth street he seemed to have forgotten "Jim" and went alone peacefully. An hour later the negro came down and resumed his work, but he kept hla : eyes alternately up and down the ave nue, to bo sure not to be, taken by sur prise again. "Ah wonder what dat old fool el'phant wanted uf me." said heW "Ah neve said anyflng - wrong 'bout him. Fact. Ah nevah would harm no el'phant " YolnBlllty Ssplalaea, A man with a wife who was gifted, wits gab. While he very plainly was not Concluded one day he would try to find . . 'out , .-- Why in thunder she talked such a lot . So lie said very mildly: "Please exens , me, but why Do you tell me a thing o'er and tftrT" 'A word to the wise is sufficient" M - she. t . . !"Whlch-l why tin eorope'.!4 t e more." ( "New Tork ju -Y
