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HE
WAIST
DINE
IN
ART
AND
FASHION
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THE AMERICAN WAIST.LINE. S . . . 'W- V . -'' THE ENGLI8H WAIST LINE.
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No Swearing
While" Working
Tho novel provision In th contract
for th erection of new Methodist
ohurch at Logansport Ind., to the effect
that no roan employed on any part of
the construction. shAU either swear or
drink while so employed, is causinr o
end of inconvenience to John E.. Barnes,
the contractor. His first . trouble re
salted from disinclination on the part
of men. even though they were not ad
dicted to swearing or drinking, to bind
themselves absolute y to, refrain from
the exercise of the privilege should
seeming; necessity for it arise.
. The churoh people wanted a provision
In the contract to the effect that the
mechanics employed . upon : It should
neither chew-, nor . smoke.- but no con
tractor would bid on the work under
such conditions, and chewing and smok-
inr are snot prohibited. The building
-committee would not recede from its
demands regarding swearing and drink
Ag, nd though Mr. Barnes, finally
signed the contract under his bid for
the work, it was with many misgivings
as to the result v ,
the day before he began ' ' work he
' called hi men around him ' and told
them : the conditions under which the
contract had been secured. Some of the
men who have worked for hlm"Tor years
shook their heads ominously: and con
fessod that they did not know whether
or not they could stay -on the Job If
they were not permitted, to swean One
of them asked that a "swearing line'
be drawn, within .whkh .oaths must not
. be uttered, and the workmen be required
to go outside of this if they wished to.
tractor, thought this might be Construed
into n evasion of ;the eontract, and in
sisted that the men pledge him to ab"
stain absolutely from .profanity while
-working on the Job.' ' -r . ' ; t
'."The stonemasons who were employed
. to lay the foundatldns positively refused
' to be bound by suah conditions, and It
was 'arranged , to get , out the stone t
the yards of the company, and all the
' ; cutting1 will be 1 done ' some distance
; ' away,, from ' the "consecrated ground,"'
as the men have come to call the site of
the new fdiflae. The same artifice, was
employed by some' of the men Who are
' getting out the heavier timbers for the
new structure," that work being . done
10 squares from the site; and the tim
bers being ready for putting in place
when they are delivered at the church.
The contract not only requires that
- the workmen shall refrain rrom swear
ing and , drinking, , but ; Mr. .Barnes
agrees to r discharge any " man who is
guilty of either offense while employed
on the structure. So far he has had
7 but ene caeto deal with, and that was
a young man who had been In his em
ploy but a few ; months. The young
carpenter Struck his finger with the pole
of-'hia hatchet, and before he thought
he uttered the fatal "cuss word, The
foreman reported ' the act' and, tried to
' excuse the offender, but Mr. Barnes said
. he had made tho contract in' good faith,
' that the men had all agreed to its term
and that he could not make any excep
tions to the ruleespecially when the
FASHIONS FRESH FROM NEW YORK &
i - , (By "Maude Griffin.) 4
: New York, Oct 21. One of the most
positive signs that ' the - fashions' are
yearly accommodating themselves " more
to the dictates of .common sense is found
in the fact that each season brings a
smaller surplus, of needless 'novelties.
Time was when one was -almost afraid
to buy anything at the beginnings of the
siderably and with a few touches of lace
of white It is possible for almost' anyone
to wear' a blue velvet gown. . r
A somewhat ornate design has the skirt
trimmed with bands of the same shade
taffeta stitched on to simulate a flounced
Although it is. somewhat too pro
nounced for entire gowns, . orange is a
color that will be very much worn this
season. One sees it on many of the
smart waists, hats and garnitures, es
nenlallv whera white or brown n renom
inates. Nothing makes a more effective an 0Pei Mexican stltcnmg done
at home gown that displays more than
ordinary originality is russet brown
voile over apple green taffeta. The skirt
has three partly tucked flounces bordered
with a wide fold of cloth and joined with
with
effective. Especially Is this tru. of the
blue-greys. . An Important walking dress
of steel blue has a deeper blue plaid
threaded through it so closely that the
lighter tone is scarcely perceptible.- The
contrast is marked by a nappy silk cord
of black runnlnor throuirh thn Cheviot
eiiect,. mere oemg apparently inree or me defining a larger square than that out- lining for the exquisite nut shades than embroidery silk. These flounces open
flounces. A plaited velvet skirt Is rather lined by the darker blue. orange taffeta. over a plaited front piece of the voile,
a daring adventure even for a slender The skirt l. made milt nialn nhnut th A handsome seoarate bodice of white The bodice has a partly tucked loose
season for fear that after the modes fiacre, but such was successfuyy ae- hips and fits faultlessly. Around the bot- chiffon generally trimmed with thread ESton effect falling over a girdle of rus
had been authoritatively settled the pur- compllshed . in this toilette. The plaits torn It Is finished with a solitary fold of lace has a dainty bertha effect fastened set brown panne. Under the Eton effect
chases made early would not be adequate extend all around the waist, but are the same material piped with velvet, at the front with a curiously twisted knot is a waist of white lace over ,chlffon. The
for the demands of an ultra -smart ward- stitched very flat. Above the knees the flounce Is headed of two shades pf orange-colored velvet bishop sleeves have a top piece of the
robe. The bodice to cloae-fltting and Is plaited with three rather wide anDiled tucks, but Descending from the corsage Is a double lace and this is bordered very simply
mowaaays lew cnanges are maae ana uove aeep giraie io meei a yone iaia . the, velvet Piping Is not repeated here. twist of the velvet wnlch meets a giraie wim a strip oi Drown emoromery wnicn
they are comparatively speaking, . lncon- In transverse, folds of blue satin. Bor- The blouse has only a medium deep of the same-caught with a handsome
aering tne-giraie in clerical effect are hip-flounce and this is brimmed simply gold buckle set wjth rough topazes,
bands of blue and ?white embroidery- with a stitched fold of the' cheviot. The The increasing width of girdles has
touched here and there with dull orange, girdle is of steel blue satin faced cloth caused a flutter of fashion's domain,
while the border of the emnroldery is of stitched with black silk braid. It is Madame La Mode seems determined to
a lighter shade of blue. Medallions of rather ' narrower than most of the belts make it an important part of winter
There is a noticeable revival of velvet rich cream lace are appllqued over the seen lust now. and clasDS at the front dress trimmings, and there is. almost a
costumes this fall and they are seen in plaited yoke which Is 'also finished with with a. handsome blue and gold enameled general outcry against it because, of its
charming new; colorings. Blue is one oanas or ine emoroiaery. . ,Tne tops or buckle. ... - exactions. The only figure to wnicn it is
Of the prettiest. 4This peculiar shade of the sleeves are trimmed with lace and A distinctive feature of the blouse Is a possible Is a very slender, long-walsted
bluish .violet has been used in former embroidery and below the elbow the full shoulder trimminc of verv - ODen-work one., and even when, if the wearer is too
years, but its favor has been uncertain puffs are caught into a tight fitting platted braid stitched over blue taffeta. This ex- tall, the style is not certain to be becom-
because generally speaking the color Is cun with , stitchings oi the silk used to tends from the. collar over the shoulder ?ing. Where the figure will permit how-
trim tne sKtrt. seam and down the sleeves to the elbows ever, no details lend more cachet to a
A Ijouis XIII silk beaver hat. trimmed where it is finished with silk passemen
terie. Medallions of the same braid fin
ished with large buttons matching the
sequential. Of course eVery smart open
ing ias Its extreme modes, but as these
are. intended principally ror display, no
one Is expected to- follow them.
unbecoming.- Previously its greatest
vogue" was in millinery effects where
there ' was a better chance of getting it
away -from the face by massing bunches
of.bluettes around the crown or at the.
back of the brim. The effort to reprp
with black plumes
tume.
completes - the , cos-
gown.
extends over the bodice forming a border
for the rich lace yoke. Deep cuffs of silk
from whloh fall folds of soft lace com
plete a puff of voile falling from
shoulder to wrist
It is predicted that later In the sea
son fashion will revert to very high
stocks and collars. It has been found
that the narrow comfortable bands that
are now so highly favored will not be
able to withstand the cold of winter and
fashion does not care to be responsible
for sore throats and aching chests. Al'
though collars may be high, however.
they will be very soft and most delicate
An Elephant!
at the Dentist's
Smart contourleres are extending the supports being used to nold them up.
buckle on the lrdle adorn the blouse province of plaits bove the belt-line to Anything stiff and formidable looking
It would he difficult In And .nvthlnir front RolnW th lhmr tha sleeves are many or tne DOdlCe. THIS idea is ex- will DO aiscaraea as ungainly ana uu-
duce the tint in velvet which has - not ' prettier than the plaid cheviots which made in full puffs with three tucks and empllfled more in at home gowns though, feminine, but there are so many dainty
met wltn success 'until this season, is are the most formidable rival of velvet fathered Intn a. cuff of braided cloth. An than In street toilettes, because the pll- designs to choose from that one. stands
dpubly commendable,- because the cold for street gowns. Those In two or three ermine toque trimmed with blue silk and able fabrics used for house toilettes are little chance, of falling into such a sar-
metallic lustre vhas ; been softened con- shades of the samff color are extremely ostrich pompons la worn, with the gown, more adaptable to piaua ana wins, ah ton&i error.
work was just in a beginning. - The
young -carpenter took his discharge
gracefully, but said that It was. such a
relief to swear when he struck his
finger that he did not regret It . even
though it deprived him of work. ' ;-
-One of the church officers said that
the building committee had a double
purpose in placing such a provision in
the contracts In. the first place, the
swearing 'and drinking habits were fool
ish and under the circumstances crim
inal, and iathe-second It seemed the
worst - sacrilege to have,- men swearing
in .the construction of. house which
was to- be dedicated te the worship "of
the ILord.- Her' added that Mr. Barnes
had 'talc en the contract with . a full
understanding, of the conditions,- and it
was expected that they would be com
plied, with 1n spirit and letter. , ' i.
"And there was a third reason- that
Influences us," said another member, of
the committee,- 'land it should be taken
into account . Swearing la a foolish
vice ' and drinking is even worse. Men
at work on buildings here take the name
pf God in vain without thinking, and it
is no uncommon thing to see them
drinking beer at their work. We wanted
them to know that neither swearing nor
drinking . is necessary to their comfort
or-their happiness and we insisted on
the provision, Suppose now that these
men abstain both from swearing and
drinking while on this ' work. - Won't
they see that Jt can .be done easily, and
if. they are sensible, won't they .refrain
from it in the future? ' That : is the
Ithinif-we are trying to teach them, and
that is one- reason for put Ung. such a
provision in the building contract We
just wanted to show them that the thing
can be done." . - -
r,:- If Ton Would Uv a Century.
i From the New . Tork Sun. ,
Every woman, so the story goea, car
ries with her aigns which to the experi
enced tell ,. whether. sher. will Uve Jong.
Here are some of the supposd signs of
longevity: ' . ,-
The eyes must be round and wide
rather than long and narrow," and ; if
thev are hrmrn-er nasei lire win do
longer than If they were black or vio
let. -
The neck must be full and pillar-like,
rather than slender.
The brows must be ample and slope
back slightly from an absolute perpen-.
dleular. The. head must be wide behind
ana over the ears.
The mouth-must be full and well -set
and the chin sauare and Arm.
- The - nose - must - be wide and -full
through Its whole length, and have open,
easily dilating nostrils. This Indicates
a good heart and good lungs. , ;
lf; the ,or!nce of the ear is lowr denot
ing a deeply seated brain, there Is a bet
ter chance of long life, , .. 'r
The woman who appears taller In pro
portion heir sitting down than- when
standing has a' good chance to live long.
It the body Is Ions In proportion to the ,
limbs, the heart, lungs and digestive or
gans are large,
The pulse should beat with full and
normal stroke. Limbs and joints should
be large and well formed, the flesh
neither too hard nor too soft
Those who resemble their mothers
may expect to live longest and the first
born is longer lived than other children.
For example, a sister born 10 years be
fore another sister la supposed to have
six years' greater duration of life. '
It is well known that women live
longer than men, but so. far there is no
satisfactory explanation, of why this is
bo. -Out of a million people. 216 women
and, only 8 J men reach the age of 100
years. , Maybe . tt ; is because a woman
gets more . sleep 'than a man, for: the
longer a person sleeps the longer will
life last . Nearly all long-lived people
have been great Sleepers. When M. de
Lesseps was ' on the cen .he would
sleep for 20 hours at a stretch. - Glad-
18 hours a day might live 100 years.
.One of the secrets of. longevity, there
fore, is to take plenty of sleep. -Other
rules which ..the seeker after length, of
days should observe are these:
. Sleep on the light side. . -
Keep the bedroom window open all
night
Don't : take a cold tub In the morn'
ing. but a bath the temperature of the
body.
Don't allow any pets In the living
room. They , may carry disease germs.
Take .dally, exercise, in the open air,
and live in the country; if not all the
year, at least for Ave or six months.
Occasionally change your occupation.
' Take frequent and short holidays.
Watch the three D's drinking water;
dampness and drains. " , t .
Limit your ambitions.
" Keep your temper.
, Worry less, work more; ride less,
walk; moret -drlnk less, - breathe -more;
tone averaged It hours sleep a day. A I eat less, chew more; preach less, prac-
maner woman who would learn to sleep i tic more..
From the New Tork Sun.
A queer looking procession moved up
Sixth avenue yesterday afternoon. Jus
what It was no one seemed to know.
The policemen along the avenue de-
scribed it as a "jay oireus, The- out
fit consisted of three men, two mulea '
drawing wagons, four billy goats and- '
an elephant that trailed along In they
rear. -
At Sixth avenue and Thirty-sixth?
street there la a dentist's establishment
The dentist, in addition to advertising
his business by fancy signs, has a gaily
dressed negro on the sidewalk to hand .
out cards to pedestrians. The negro
is known along the' avenue as "Jim
Cards." Yesterday Jim's . raiment waa
particularly gay. He wore a tall haft
with a red silk band and a bright red
spike-tail coat. His trousers were oft
the "Uncle Sam" variety.
The elephant got one look at "Jim.!
and then, with a snort made for the;
card man. The negro fled up the stairs,
four steps at a time. He didn't stop
in the dental parlor. Instead, ho went'
to the roof and hastily discarded the
hat and coat
Meanwhile the elephant was trvliur to
follow. He got his head and trunk into)
the doorway. There he stuck fast
snorting and squealing so loudly that
people for two blocks around ran out '
to see who wss being killed.
"Jim" peered over the roof, but ofr
course the elephant didn't see him. All
the same, he stamped and shook hla
frame so much that a negress in tho
street yelled to "Jim:" '
Ton git off dat roof. He's done gwlna
to tore de house down."
"Jim" traveled to another roof, but
soon the men in the procession tackled
the elephant with hooks and got him
out of the . doorway. . It took much,
prodding to get the beast to continue
up the avenue, but by the time he
reached Thirty-fourth street he seemed
to have forgotten "Jim" and went alone
peacefully.
An hour later the negro came down
and resumed his work, but he kept hla :
eyes alternately up and down the ave
nue, to bo sure not to be, taken by sur
prise again.
"Ah wonder what dat old fool el'phant
wanted uf me." said heW "Ah neve
said anyflng - wrong 'bout him. Fact.
Ah nevah would harm no el'phant "
YolnBlllty Ssplalaea,
A man with a wife who was gifted, wits
gab.
While he very plainly was not
Concluded one day he would try to find .
. 'out , .--
Why in thunder she talked such a lot .
So lie said very mildly: "Please exens ,
me, but why
Do you tell me a thing o'er and tftrT"
'A word to the wise is sufficient" M
- she. t . .
!"Whlch-l why tin eorope'.!4 t e
more." (
"New Tork ju
-Y