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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (May 21, 1922)
-SECTION: VOL. XLI PORTLAND, OREGON, SUNDAY MORNING, MAY 21, 1923 , , r I ' V NO. 21 : SPORT TOGS; HOT DAINTY BUT SmDfeORN By ATMlTIG GIRL - . . . . . . , . . . . . .. ! , . ... " '. : ' ' ' : ' - . . '. , , . . , T-- -..- . . . ' . White Being Donned for Golf as Well as for Tennis This Year Every Week Knicker Suits Acquire More Style and Grace as Manufacturers Learn How to Build Them Blanket Coats Splendid for Country Wear. " . , ' 7 5-y IHxl'-A. yJjvrir foil - !l ' - -:". ofe fe'? : li i-lM rff ;J3u rv V; 1 Mill WV 11 41 - " ; si rr sJtJJJfhitf&d Siponj' ONE CANNOT " blame the woman ; who wears sport' clothes for heir own sake rather than for the sake of the athletics they are sup posed to represent. She who sports tor clotnes sake, however, usually pre feis irefficient sport togs to those' built primarily for service, and it is this type of wearer who has encour aged a vast number of manufacturers to turn out bizarre and absurd gar ments that are merely pretty and have no sincere reason for being when they call themselves "sport clothes" But so picturesque and so becoming are these wearables that it would take a female stoic to resist them. . Why should even grandma af-' feet sprigged lawns and little shawls when she can. have graceful silken skirtj and sweaters, enchanting bloues of cobwebby linen and even flattering little hats that shade her eyes yet do not interfere with leaning back in the porch rocker. ' But today we are going to consider genuine and not pretend sport clothes; the practical, sturdy wearables ready for actual indulgence in outdoor eport clothes for the golf girl and tennis girl, the girl who sails her own boat and the girl who rides a horse. These exercises are not indulged in except by amateurs and bunglers in filet-trimmed blouse, ostrich-trimmed hats, French heels and narrow silk skirts. Such effects may be all very well for the club veranda or the side linca of the tennis court, but the sin cere participator -in sports has :a-fine contempt for them. - , , Snow-Unite Golf Girls. ' . Straws point; in the exclusiye shops, to-pure -white as the exclusive color scheme for sport" wear the coming summer.- There are authoritative windows on Fifth avenue , which are displaying all-white sport attire, and when one has observed window after window of the sort the conclusion is obvious. Pure white is to be the ex clusive idea, probably at Newport and Bar Harbor where such , high-class raiment is most in. evidence. ' Well, we shall see! At any. rate the white, win-' dows ere vey attractive. There are skirts of white prunella;; of flannel, of softly woven linen. There are spot less white capes with collars of white angora. There are heavy-ribbed: white silk sport stockings and buckskin ox fords all white and guiltless of those dari leather "saddles" which seem to frenzy this spring. Just search around for a pair of sport shoes without the inevitable "saddles" and see where you end up, in the exclusive and high priced shops. There are white sweat ers, too; silk ones and Shetland ones, and heavy while wool slipons that sucgen a sailboat and a brisk breeze and a tugging sheet. .. . . Golf togs is well as tennis togs are to be-had in-all-white effects though" of course the golf clothes are much heavier than raiment -or the tennis co-rt. An "ractive golf kit (to -borrw-.y' theEnglis.V expression) 'in cludes a skirt of white prunella, white ribbed hose, white oxfords with dark leather fdxings near the sole (for your golfer has to tramp over wet ground and in all sorts of places that would be the death of entirely white shoes) and a 'tairn o' ehanter cap of white,clpth.:. A dark green sweater with trimming bands of white an gora goes with this white costume and the sweater is new and interest ing. It buttons with white pearl but tons down the left side of the front, not down the ..center, and there is a choker collar of white angora at the top. The sash is tipped with email angora balls. 1 ' , ' . For the golf girl who prefers some- thing in color there is a very prac tical and sturdy, 'costume combining jumper and. sktrt of knitted worsted. Cross stripes in1 softly blended color are set in panels down the sides of the skirt and there is a band. of , the colored; striping around the elbow sleeve.! Tie golf girl has also taken to the-new wrap-around skirt which buttons down one side of the front. Most of these skirts are fringed at thj-edge. A smart one is in vertical. 6t-.ipes of black and green with hair lines of white" separating the black and green stripes. Knicker Salts Ideal for Conn try. , .. . Every , week the knicker euita ac quire more style and grace, as manu facturers learn how to build them. A mannish costume for a feminine fig ure ""must' be 'cut in aspecial way or it is -anything but graceful,, and a"i;the hem andj has-a circular; cape at first . onljr the slim, , lithe girl with i tached at "the collar line. "There: are flat, boyish figures managed to look ' three-Tiece golf costumes, -too; with well in these -.suits, y Now they ; are circular 1 capes1 Jhat riiay be turned madefto'give graceful lines to even ' into wrap-around skirts which com iarger women-ta trick in cutting 'ana ; pletely hid the knickers. draping the material. ; For instance 1 Of courSe' these C1077) bt'ahk'et'coats the manufacturers .of these suits ce- registered instant success, they are so cently - discovered that women -'were buying their knickers' in men's shops! The feminine knickers looked - all picturesque in addition to their cozy warmth and their lightness of weight. The coat as pictured is a genuine right, when one stood uy, but unless' $cotch blanket model in soft tones of they --'were ungracefully big and tan, blue and green. Fringe and baggy one could not sit down in them comfortably. ' All-this has been recti- h,row-collar' are features .of smart ness and the ciat is supplied with fied and the feminine knicker suit is. capacious pockets. now well nigh perfect in cut, fit, and- . The ; tennis girl,, once discovering appearance. It must be accompanied the excellence of a worsted slipon for by a masculine type, of hat or a severe '. sailor, and by low-heeled sport ox-; fords. Frills, lace and - even hem-' her particular sport, refused to give it up. The wool slipon is light, im pedes movement not al all, may be stitching are debarred - - from -. the pulled down trimly in a second when blouse; this type of suit demands i plain shirt of linen as nearly as pos siblo ' approaching the negligee shirt. ' . Blanket Coats Look Hough. ., Splendid . for , country wear, or for worsted with yachting, are the blanket -sport coats white worsted. it becomes disarranged by active play, and -while. :Cool because it rapidly ab- masculine sorbs perspiration it"; protects '-, its wearer from sudden-; chill.-. Here (1327) is a new tennis slipon pf black i crocheted edge of The skirt is Of black which come in soft yet bright colors, and white striped prunella. ; ' Real Scotch blarik&ts are cut up ; to' The' most sensible sport- costume make the best models and the coats yet, as every woman 'admits whether are warm yet light to carry. Most of she dares wear one or not, is the cost them -have throw-collars ending in: deep: fringe. A useful coat for . the; woman who likes to wear knickers; off,v climb mountains-- or ...scramble at the country club but must make around boats. - No- girl who dons one the trjp out from town in more con-.of these costumes will go back to ventloaTgarbfalls in good length at petticoats' w'itfwut'a. 'sigh' -ot 'regret. and, knicker combination that gives you glorious freedom to step out and Here (1171) is an' authoritative knicker costume of mixed tweedst, the very smart material for sport' wear just how. , The knickers are g'race fully cut and the loose coat opens over a sport shirt of fine. linen, un trimmed. ' . . - i . i .-. . . In those communities where day light saving prevails, the dinner hour occurs at twilight in' May "and June; and fading sunset glow through the open windows mingles with the soft gleam of dinner candles- within the--room. Particularly ' charming, in this lighting, are tables whose rich, dark mahogany Is only partly cov ered, so, that the candle-gleam is re flected in the wood, and. while a for mal damask tablecloth is most cor rect during the months when curtains are drawn and daylight is shut out, or darkness, as the case may -be, there is a charm in the . doily-decorated table for twilight dining, - , ' Lace-trimmed and elaborately em broidered linens are a bit too elegant and formal for the every-day 'home table, and simple, rather plain linens are preferred. The linens themselves are rich and beautiful In quality but the dcj3ration confines itself to hem stitching. For a round table the cir cular centerpiece with four circular dollies is; the ' best 'arrangement. Longer tables, set for six people, look well with a broad runner down jthe center and square or oblong place -dollies, .' The candle-sticks are set in Jihe with the flower bowt n a formal ' arrangement- lenghtwise-of- the -table. , .Cream ;or ecru linen withiwhite ami; gold china. and ,a cenferpieqe pf .nas-j tCrtiums or yellow; sprjng-, flowers is ; charming. .. Pale gray, linen with blue; or violet posies is cool, and daintyj A ! pale green linen set, 4ised: with-- green ; and white china and white flowers is : delightful on a warm evening. ' " . "' v ' . . ;' X.;-' Paisley did not make a final bow after, its revival of last.', season. and retire again ; to oblivionv for- a -generation as was expected of it. This; spring Paisley is - enormously " fash- ; lonable again and Is used for hand bags and for trimming on frocks and : wraps... Paisley bags with, cut-steel beads-are shown .in ; windows; along Fifth avenue. Paisley-printed chiffon . is used for blouses. And - etunnU. black silk wraps have broad bands of Paisley trimming. One such 'wrap is oL black satin meteor with an 18-inch: border evidently taken from. a hand- ; some Paisley shawl. The border fol lows the edge of the wrap all around and a deep black silk fringe swings from the bottom. ' A Paisley evening coat that rode a; few blocks in a New York trolley car the other night . completely absorbed ' the attention oVevery woman, in that : car,1 until - its wearer and her "escort ' departed.' Such a . perfect' evening coat it. .was, warm, loose and.com ; pfetely 'coveri g" the frock; "and -oh. so ; smart ; and1 f different," .The' whole coat was of Paisley, the skirt portion in flaring circular. cut, evidently taken from "a Paisley s-hawl. This circular skirt portion was 'attached to a low bf.lt,of sealskin and. a.- border. of seal skin 12 inches-deep went all. around the-' skirt, rippling with the circular coat. There were deep cuffs of seal skin' and. a seaiskin choker collar. With so much sealskin used, not a great deal of Paisley was necessary but .the whole effect , was indescrib ably rich and- beautiful. - Liittle French boys wear rompers and their small sisters cunning pina fores, "with knickers underneath. A nnyr romper has' buttons in a flap at the front, the top and sides of the flap piped in contrasting, color, with two big pearl buttons set at the waistlins. These - little costumes are of linen the-French child wears linen prefer ably for play hours and dainty trim ming Is added in hand-hemstitching. The ,wee girl's pinafore is also of linen with edges piped in contrasting color, and pale yellow is a smart tint for childhood this season. ... - For the small girl is a modish cape of dove gray broadcloth, lined with white crepe de chine. The circular cape is attached to a circular yoke cut in scallops. The white pearl but tons fasten the yoke at the front and . there is a turnover collar of -white angora. Very smart is this .- dove.i gray and white cape with a black -milan hat and white shoes and ' stockings, . ls :.
