-SECTION:
VOL. XLI PORTLAND, OREGON, SUNDAY MORNING, MAY 21, 1923 , , r I ' V NO. 21 :
SPORT TOGS; HOT DAINTY BUT SmDfeORN By ATMlTIG GIRL
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White Being Donned for Golf as Well as for Tennis This Year Every Week Knicker Suits Acquire More Style and Grace as Manufacturers Learn How to Build Them Blanket Coats Splendid for Country Wear.
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ONE CANNOT " blame the woman ;
who wears sport' clothes for
heir own sake rather than for
the sake of the athletics they are sup
posed to represent. She who sports
tor clotnes sake, however, usually pre
feis irefficient sport togs to those'
built primarily for service, and it is
this type of wearer who has encour
aged a vast number of manufacturers
to turn out bizarre and absurd gar
ments that are merely pretty and
have no sincere reason for being
when they call themselves "sport
clothes" But so picturesque and so
becoming are these wearables that it
would take a female stoic to resist
them. . Why should even grandma af-'
feet sprigged lawns and little shawls
when she can. have graceful silken
skirtj and sweaters, enchanting
bloues of cobwebby linen and even
flattering little hats that shade her
eyes yet do not interfere with leaning
back in the porch rocker. '
But today we are going to consider
genuine and not pretend sport clothes;
the practical, sturdy wearables ready
for actual indulgence in outdoor
eport clothes for the golf girl and
tennis girl, the girl who sails her own
boat and the girl who rides a horse.
These exercises are not indulged in
except by amateurs and bunglers in
filet-trimmed blouse, ostrich-trimmed
hats, French heels and narrow silk
skirts. Such effects may be all very
well for the club veranda or the side
linca of the tennis court, but the sin
cere participator -in sports has :a-fine
contempt for them. - , ,
Snow-Unite Golf Girls. '
. Straws point; in the exclusiye shops,
to-pure -white as the exclusive color
scheme for sport" wear the coming
summer.- There are authoritative
windows on Fifth avenue , which are
displaying all-white sport attire, and
when one has observed window after
window of the sort the conclusion is
obvious. Pure white is to be the ex
clusive idea, probably at Newport and
Bar Harbor where such , high-class
raiment is most in. evidence. ' Well, we
shall see! At any. rate the white, win-'
dows ere vey attractive. There are
skirts of white prunella;; of flannel,
of softly woven linen. There are spot
less white capes with collars of white
angora. There are heavy-ribbed: white
silk sport stockings and buckskin ox
fords all white and guiltless of those
dari leather "saddles" which seem to
frenzy this spring. Just search around
for a pair of sport shoes without the
inevitable "saddles" and see where
you end up, in the exclusive and high
priced shops. There are white sweat
ers, too; silk ones and Shetland ones,
and heavy while wool slipons that
sucgen a sailboat and a brisk breeze
and a tugging sheet. .. . .
Golf togs is well as tennis togs are
to be-had in-all-white effects though"
of course the golf clothes are much
heavier than raiment -or the tennis
co-rt. An "ractive golf kit (to
-borrw-.y' theEnglis.V expression) 'in
cludes a skirt of white prunella, white
ribbed hose, white oxfords with dark
leather fdxings near the sole (for
your golfer has to tramp over wet
ground and in all sorts of places that
would be the death of entirely white
shoes) and a 'tairn o' ehanter cap of
white,clpth.:. A dark green sweater
with trimming bands of white an
gora goes with this white costume
and the sweater is new and interest
ing. It buttons with white pearl but
tons down the left side of the front,
not down the ..center, and there is a
choker collar of white angora at the
top. The sash is tipped with email
angora balls. 1 ' , ' .
For the golf girl who prefers some-
thing in color there is a very prac
tical and sturdy, 'costume combining
jumper and. sktrt of knitted worsted.
Cross stripes in1 softly blended color
are set in panels down the sides of
the skirt and there is a band. of , the
colored; striping around the elbow
sleeve.! Tie golf girl has also taken
to the-new wrap-around skirt which
buttons down one side of the front.
Most of these skirts are fringed at
thj-edge. A smart one is in vertical.
6t-.ipes of black and green with hair
lines of white" separating the black
and green stripes.
Knicker Salts Ideal for Conn try. ,
.. . Every , week the knicker euita ac
quire more style and grace, as manu
facturers learn how to build them. A
mannish costume for a feminine fig
ure ""must' be 'cut in aspecial way or
it is -anything but graceful,, and a"i;the hem andj has-a circular; cape at
first . onljr the slim, , lithe girl with i tached at "the collar line. "There: are
flat, boyish figures managed to look ' three-Tiece golf costumes, -too; with
well in these -.suits, y Now they ; are circular 1 capes1 Jhat riiay be turned
madefto'give graceful lines to even ' into wrap-around skirts which com
iarger women-ta trick in cutting 'ana ; pletely hid the knickers.
draping the material. ; For instance 1 Of courSe' these C1077) bt'ahk'et'coats
the manufacturers .of these suits ce- registered instant success, they are so
cently - discovered that women -'were
buying their knickers' in men's shops!
The feminine knickers looked - all
picturesque in addition to their cozy
warmth and their lightness of weight.
The coat as pictured is a genuine
right, when one stood uy, but unless' $cotch blanket model in soft tones of
they --'were ungracefully big and tan, blue and green. Fringe and
baggy one could not sit down in them
comfortably. ' All-this has been recti-
h,row-collar' are features .of smart
ness and the ciat is supplied with
fied and the feminine knicker suit is. capacious pockets.
now well nigh perfect in cut, fit, and- . The ; tennis girl,, once discovering
appearance. It must be accompanied the excellence of a worsted slipon for
by a masculine type, of hat or a severe '.
sailor, and by low-heeled sport ox-;
fords. Frills, lace and - even hem-'
her particular sport, refused to give
it up. The wool slipon is light, im
pedes movement not al all, may be
stitching are debarred - - from -. the pulled down trimly in a second when
blouse; this type of suit demands i
plain shirt of linen as nearly as pos
siblo ' approaching the
negligee shirt. ' .
Blanket Coats Look Hough.
., Splendid . for , country wear, or for worsted with
yachting, are the blanket -sport coats white worsted.
it becomes disarranged by active play,
and -while. :Cool because it rapidly ab-
masculine sorbs perspiration it"; protects '-, its
wearer from sudden-; chill.-. Here
(1327) is a new tennis slipon pf black
i crocheted edge of
The skirt is Of black
which come in soft yet bright colors, and white striped prunella. ; '
Real Scotch blarik&ts are cut up ; to' The' most sensible sport- costume
make the best models and the coats yet, as every woman 'admits whether
are warm yet light to carry. Most of she dares wear one or not, is the cost
them -have throw-collars ending in:
deep: fringe. A useful coat for . the;
woman who likes to wear knickers; off,v climb mountains-- or ...scramble
at the country club but must make around boats. - No- girl who dons one
the trjp out from town in more con-.of these costumes will go back to
ventloaTgarbfalls in good length at petticoats' w'itfwut'a. 'sigh' -ot 'regret.
and, knicker combination that gives
you glorious freedom to step out and
Here (1171) is an' authoritative
knicker costume of mixed tweedst, the
very smart material for sport' wear
just how. , The knickers are g'race
fully cut and the loose coat opens
over a sport shirt of fine. linen, un
trimmed. ' . . -
i . i .-. . .
In those communities where day
light saving prevails, the dinner
hour occurs at twilight in' May "and
June; and fading sunset glow through
the open windows mingles with the
soft gleam of dinner candles- within
the--room. Particularly ' charming, in
this lighting, are tables whose rich,
dark mahogany Is only partly cov
ered, so, that the candle-gleam is re
flected in the wood, and. while a for
mal damask tablecloth is most cor
rect during the months when curtains
are drawn and daylight is shut out,
or darkness, as the case may -be, there
is a charm in the . doily-decorated
table for twilight dining, - ,
' Lace-trimmed and elaborately em
broidered linens are a bit too elegant
and formal for the every-day 'home
table, and simple, rather plain linens
are preferred. The linens themselves
are rich and beautiful In quality but
the dcj3ration confines itself to hem
stitching. For a round table the cir
cular centerpiece with four circular
dollies is; the ' best 'arrangement.
Longer tables, set for six people, look
well with a broad runner down jthe
center and square or oblong place
-dollies, .' The candle-sticks are set in
Jihe with the flower bowt n a formal '
arrangement- lenghtwise-of- the -table.
, .Cream ;or ecru linen withiwhite ami;
gold china. and ,a cenferpieqe pf .nas-j
tCrtiums or yellow; sprjng-, flowers is ;
charming. .. Pale gray, linen with blue;
or violet posies is cool, and daintyj A !
pale green linen set, 4ised: with-- green ;
and white china and white flowers is :
delightful on a warm evening. ' "
. "' v ' . . ;' X.;-'
Paisley did not make a final bow
after, its revival of last.', season.
and retire again ; to oblivionv for- a -generation
as was expected of it. This;
spring Paisley is - enormously " fash- ;
lonable again and Is used for hand
bags and for trimming on frocks and :
wraps... Paisley bags with, cut-steel
beads-are shown .in ; windows; along
Fifth avenue. Paisley-printed chiffon .
is used for blouses. And - etunnU.
black silk wraps have broad bands of
Paisley trimming. One such 'wrap is
oL black satin meteor with an 18-inch:
border evidently taken from. a hand- ;
some Paisley shawl. The border fol
lows the edge of the wrap all around
and a deep black silk fringe swings
from the bottom. '
A Paisley evening coat that rode a;
few blocks in a New York trolley car
the other night . completely absorbed '
the attention oVevery woman, in that :
car,1 until - its wearer and her "escort '
departed.' Such a . perfect' evening
coat it. .was, warm, loose and.com
; pfetely 'coveri g" the frock; "and -oh. so
; smart ; and1 f different," .The' whole
coat was of Paisley, the skirt portion
in flaring circular. cut, evidently taken
from "a Paisley s-hawl. This circular
skirt portion was 'attached to a low
bf.lt,of sealskin and. a.- border. of seal
skin 12 inches-deep went all. around
the-' skirt, rippling with the circular
coat. There were deep cuffs of seal
skin' and. a seaiskin choker collar.
With so much sealskin used, not a
great deal of Paisley was necessary
but .the whole effect , was indescrib
ably rich and- beautiful. -
Liittle French boys wear rompers
and their small sisters cunning pina
fores, "with knickers underneath. A
nnyr romper has' buttons in a flap at
the front, the top and sides of the flap
piped in contrasting, color, with two
big pearl buttons set at the waistlins.
These - little costumes are of linen
the-French child wears linen prefer
ably for play hours and dainty trim
ming Is added in hand-hemstitching.
The ,wee girl's pinafore is also of
linen with edges piped in contrasting
color, and pale yellow is a smart tint
for childhood this season.
...
- For the small girl is a modish cape
of dove gray broadcloth, lined with
white crepe de chine. The circular
cape is attached to a circular yoke
cut in scallops. The white pearl but
tons fasten the yoke at the front
and . there is a turnover collar of
-white angora. Very smart is this
.- dove.i gray and white cape with a
black -milan hat and white shoes and
' stockings, . ls :.