The Sunday Oregonian., July 18, 1920, SECTION FIVE, Page 4, Image 62

THE StrypAY OREGONIAN, PORTLAND, JULY 18, 1920
IDEAS FOR NEGLIGEES EVIDENTLY TAKEN
FROM ANCIENT PRINTS AND PAINTINGS
Modern Tea Gown Really Work of Art With Much Skill and Care Given to Design Dinner Negligee Is
Latest Fad Stunning New Garment Falls in Flat Lines.
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thing but a erliree. The dirn'fiea
J and artistic-dinner negligee has made
i its appearance in, America now and
j undoubtedly it haa come to etay. But
such a garment must be rich and
beautiful as its own excuse for bing.
j Made on inartistic lines and of ma
i terial that does not shimmer, flow
; and cling, it would sink to the level
ot a wrapper, and be impossible for
dinner table or drawing-room wear.
Away back in tha seventies they
used -to wear breakfast eowns of
sheer white lawn, with yards of nar
row rurries at the foot, down the
front and around the flowing sleeves.
Many little byows of black velvet fol
lowed each other down the front.
They were cool, daintyand delight
fully feminine, those breakfast gowns
of the seventies. One wonders why
they went out of fashion: but they
disappeared when Mother Hubbards
arrived and before the kimono swept
the land with its wave of popularity.
Now the ruffled breakfast gown is
back, but t is made of silken stuff,
of crepe de chine or satin meteor. It
Just a long, straight coat, opening
all the way down the front, and with
et-in sleeves in elbow or three-quarter-length.
Asoft sash ties it in
gracefully at the waistline. Ruffles
of the material go down the front,
around the edge, and finish sleeve
nd neckline. And shirred pockets
at the hip make a convenient place
to tuck away the morning correspon
dence if there is a letter one does
not want everybody asking about.
One of these pretty breakfast gowns
is of orchid satin, with ruffles set on
1th hemstitching. Another is of
apricot satin. And modes of pale
blue or daffodil crepe de chine are
specially popular.
Many of this season's room negli
gees are of fine linen, the fabric of
fabrics this year, new that we may
all have linen again for personal use.
Lovely is a sacque. or coatee, of hand
kerchief linen cut on loose kimono
lines an dedged all around with val
lace frills. The linen is embroidered
at regular intervals with tiny sprigs
of lilac and lilac ribbons Ue the
coatee together. Another little coatee
is of pale blue handkerchief linen
with pintucks and net footing for
trimming. A very stunning kimono
for the boudoir Is of heavy white
linen embroidered In eyelet pattern.
the design of grapes. leaves and ten
drils sprawling gracefully over back,
front and sleeves of the garment. The
embroidery is white and this white
linen negligee, heavy with its rich
embroidery and beautifully soft and
supple in the hands, is a very sump
tuous affair.
Graceful sacques are made In scarf
fashion. A two-yard length of chif
fon is doubled lengthwise, the fold
coming at the shoulders. Each end
is slashed half way to the neck, the
arm thrusting through the slash, at
its top. . Another slash In the center
of one side, from neck to waistline,
makes the front opening. The chif
fon is picot finished all around and
tassels are hung at the four corners.
. An ideal sort of teagown (2086) per
fectly correct for a late afternoon
occasion in the drawing-room when
friends are informally received, yet
as comfortable after a tiring day as
any peignoir! Under a chiffon slip
the color of deep green leaves is a
skirt of shimmering crepe In nastur
tium red: and the overdress is em
broidered with nasturtium colored
wool on train, sleeve and neck open
ing. Very graceful is the straight
garment with its kimono shoulders
and soft looseness drawn in by a
wide, trailing chiffon sash.
Out of the simplest ideas designers
of negligees achieve the loveliest
lnes. Here (398) is a doubled length
of chiffon, slashed at the doubled
fold for arm openings and clashed at
right; angles from neck to waist for
a front opening and with a few tas
sels sewed on to weight the chiffon.
Could anything be simpler or love
lier, for a summer afternoon? The
dainty scarf fastens with a nosegay
of eilk flowers ard it is worn over
a camisole and petticoat of exclusive
style.
Just an old-style wrapper It le (400)
revived but is It not adorable in
style and comfort? The straight,
loose garment Is built of orchid satin
and disdains any filmy trimming of
lace or chiffon. Instead, the satin
Is made into little frills which r
set on with hemstitching, and a few
tucks add their smartness here and
there. Pockets, of course. In this
cosy breakfast gown to slip love
letters into! The sash is made of
doubled ribbon and is weighted with
silk ornaments.
FINE WEATHER IN CORNWALL
DOES NOT SUIT EVERYBODY
Cobblers Find Season Dull Because People Neglect Having Shoes
Repaired Until "Leakin' Wef Days Come and Water Runs In.
BY EDITH LANTON.
ST. NEWLYN, t,ast tornwiii, juiy
17. (Special.) There is an old
vst country saying that "Rain
in June keeps -everything in tune."
If that be true, everything nere nas
been well tuned up the last few days.
I bought a Joyous Jaza parasol in
London, so many-colored that It has
Joseph's celebrated coat beaten. It Is
a parasol calculated to brighten up
any village, but Sol hasn't come out
to be parried lately.
Fine weather does not suit every
body, though. One lovely day last
week I took some shoes to the village
shoemaker to be repaired. He is a
demobilized soldier who learned his
trade in the army, and learned it well.
I asked him if he were busy, and Be
said: "No; business is never very
good in fine weather."
"Oh" I said. "Don't people wear out
their shoes in fine weather?"
Yes, they wear them out all
right." he told me, "but they aon t
bring them to be mended until the
water comes In througn tne noies.
Next day was "a leakin wet day.
so I should think every coonier wu
working overtime.
We are using "summer time again
this year, which is an hour earlier
than sun time. It is not popular in
again and again. She could only keep
me out of it by holding me. and then
I murmured. "Pritty, pritty!" and
never took my eyes off It.
My nurse was a Cornish woman of
seafaring ancestry, and boasted of my
daring far and wide. It seems that
other inferior babies were afraid of
the sea! I evidently didn't have pi
rate blood in my veins for nothing.
The beauty of the ocean captivated
me then and has held me captive ever
since. In spite of our long friend
ship the sea greeted me with gray,
sullen looks after our years of sepa
ration. The seagulls were mewing on
the cliffs and a sea mist blowing in
land. Even the lighthouse on the
distant headland was hidden from
sight. Next day when the sun shone
out spasmodically a few Jade-green
lights glittered in and out upon the
surfa'ce of the sea. Just a hint of
the treasures of emerald, sapphire and
amethyst it could display "if it had
a mind to," as they say down this
way.
The Cornish sea is so full of moods
that no picture, however beautiful,
can ever begin to be a likeness. Some
of the best attempts I have ever seen
are hanging on the walls of the Royal
academy this year.
There was a wet old beach, but I
loved It Just the same and dabbled in
my pet fairy pools and renewed acquaintance-with
my friends the anem
ones and the crabs and the mus.sels
which so kindly offer one foothold
rural districts and sun time is popu- . upon the slinnerv rocks.
larly called "Uod s times.
NEGLIGEES become more and
more like pictures. Indeed,
there is evidence that designers
of these garments borrow ideas from
old prints and paintings and some of
the more formal tearowns are won
derfully beautiful and artistic. Neg
ligees are getting away from the
stereotyped and conventional stand-
ards of a decade ago, -when wrappers
and kimonos were the . only things
one thought of having for room-wear
and teagowns were all alike made
over a fitted lining- and with a long
train that tangles up in the furniture
as one moves about.
A modern teagown is really a work
of art and much care and skill are
given to the designing of these gar
ments. Lines are as Important a
consideration in negligees as in
frocks these days. It is a far cry
indeed, from the era of the terrible
"Mother Hubbard" with its ample
proportions gathered to a skimpy
yoke; a garment in which even a
Venus would look hideous.
The latest addition to the negligee
realm is the dinner negligee. This
ia a. disUngui&ued, pne-$iece garment
that has formality and dignity enough
for an appearance at the dinner table
if the occasion is not one requiring
evening dress. There is nothing
about it that suggests a bedroom
lounglng-gown, except its long, flow
ing lines and one-piece cut and its
materials are the very richest and
most sumptuous stuffs the maker
thereof can lay her hands on. From
the Flambeau Weavers, whose artis
tic and individual creations in dress
are almost world-famed now comes
a stunning dinner negligee of soft,
heavy silk crepe with batik printing
between hip and ankle. The garment
falls in perfectly flat, straight lines
from shoulder to floor and has a se
verely plain, rounded neck opening.
The heavy silk crepe Is deep orange
In color and the batik printing in
yellow, gold and pansy purple ex
tends up to the knees at back and
front and quite to the hip at the
sides. The simple, straight lines are
made very formal by very long
sleeves, tight between hand and el
bow and widening out gracefully
above to meet the extended, straight
armhole of the straight garment.
These are called "Fortuna" sleeves
after their designer and are one of
the compelling sartorial features of
the season.
Another of these' rich-hucd. rather
formal negligees for downstairs wear
n the afternoon and evening, when
the occasion is not a formal one,
shows a straight, loose slip of leaf
green chiffon over a skirt of shim-
erlng crepe in nasturtium shadings.
ine green cnirion garment is em
broidered around neck and loose ki
mono sleeve with nasturtium-colored
wool and Is tied In loosely at the
waistline with a soft chiffon sash
whose long loops fall to the hip while
the ends trail on the floor with the
little train of green chiffon. This
train is made of the back breadth of
the chiffon slip. The front breadth
is much 6horter falling scarcely
lower . than the knees, to show the
nasturtium-colored skirt. Until you
have come In, tired, from a long day's
traveling or shopping, to slip into
one of these soft. rich, loose gowns
for the home dinner, you have no
conception of what perfect comfort
may be.
Women on the continent and In
England have worn these dinner and
evening negligees of dark, soft fab
ric for years and if they knew "about
it, would probably wonder why the
American women had no similar gar
ment: no choice between getting into
a frock for dinner or staying upstairs
and eating from u tray because she
was too exhausted to dine In -e.ny-
The village Is making great strides
in its effort to keep up with the
times. This year we can actually get
the London morning papers the same
evening. Last summer i, wno wouia
like to read tomorrow s news toaay,
had to be contented with yesterday's
paper.
The village war memorial to me
men who were Killed was . aemcaiea
last month. It is a Celtic cress, of
Cornish granite set up at the cross-
ways. The base is always hidden by
bunches of fresh flowers placed there
by the village children. The cross
bears the inscription: "To the Glory
ot God and in Honour and Memory of
Our Fellow Parishioners who Did
Their Duty in the Great War. A, D.
1914 1919."
Several of the brave soldiers whose
names are engraved upon it received
comforts from Portland during those
dark days when they were fighting
or lying wounded in hospitals.
"Greater love hath no man than
this, that he lay down his life for a
fiend," is the text which is engraved
below the list of names. Had I been
i here when the monument was dedi
cated I should have taken my place
in the procession among the nurses.
As it happened, only one nurse was
present, and she told me she felt
rather embarrassed when a command
ing voice called out: "V. A. D. nurses.
fall in line!" and she stepped forward,
all alone. We worked together at the
naval hospital, and she had hoped I
should be in time to walk with her.
I few mornings ago I was coming
up the winding road which leads from
the village to the holy place upon the
hill when a small animal ran out of
the hedge in front of ma. ' I thought
at first that it was a baby rat, but
was not sure whether it might not be
young weazel or a baby stoat.
There were two little children Just
behind me, coming home. from school,
and I thought they would be sure to
know, so I turned around and said:
"What is that running along the
road?"
They looked, and then the chubby
we girl said delightedly: "It's a
darlin' little brown puppy dog. Ain't
! un a darlin'?"
I have come back to my first love
the Cornish sea. when I was a tiny
child. Just able to toddle, my nurse
took me down on the beach. She says
I gave one look at the big, glittering
blueness which was the sea and ran
to It with both my little arms out
stretched, ran into it, fell down In it
and kissed it. She fished me out, all
dripping wet. and brought me to
land, but T rushed back to the sea
FRE
CKLES
Now la the Time o Get Rid of These
Vgly Spots.
There's no longer the slightest need
of feeling ashamed of your freckles.
as utnine aouoie strengtn is guar
anteed to remove tnese homely spots
Simply get an 'ounce of Othine
double strength from any druggist
aad apply a little of it night and
morning and you should soon see that
even the worst freckles have begun to
disappear, while tne lighter ones have
vanished entirely. It is seldom that
more than an ounce is needed to com
pletely clear the skin and gain I
beautiful clear complexion.
Be sure to ask for the doubls
strength Othine as this Is sold under
guarantee of money back if it falls to
remove freckles. Adv. .
The snake-locked anemones which
used to inhabit one pool only are
spreading. I am afraid they are can
nibals and are eating their way
along. They are weird creatures, like
miniature octopi, fortunately an
chored safely to the rock. These
flowers of the sea never make me
sneeze, but the land flowers do. At
this time of the year in every blade
of flowering grass or plant lurks a
hidden enemy ready to spring upon
me. Pollen is not imposing to look
at, but it can do a lot of damage. I
have Just had my second innoculatlon.
so feel rather daring.
One of the most unique plans I
have come across for raising money
was that of St. Dunstan's in aid of
the fter-care tund for soldiers and
sailors blinded in the war and now
going blind through wounds. St.
Dunstan's ran buses to the derby.
The tickets cost 3 and included:
A position in No. 1 upper carriage
enclosure.
A six-course lunch and an excel
lent tea by Messrs. I. Lyons & Co.,
Ltd., in a reserved marquee.
"A comfortable journey there and
back."
The advertisement, which I cut out
of the Financial Times, ends: "All
Beautiful Arms and Shoulders
are unusually alluringin this season's bathinr
costumes, so danngl designed, in wmu low
cut and in the thinnest ot dressee. To wear
them and vet enjov a graceful freedom of moe-
ment women everywhere have found Del
atone a toilet necessity. Then. too. in warm
weather, comfort and clfisnlinrni depend on it.
i DEL-A-TOEIE
la a scientific preparation made by beauty ex
perts tor ue purpose
of taety removing
hair from the face,
neck or under-armi.
Beauty specialists
use Delatone becausa
it leaves the skin
clear, firm ana per
f ectly smooth.
Delatone is easiest
to apDly simple di
recuona with every
iar.
cA t Any eDruggist't
m 1rpaitmrmt Storm
Sntitimnm
I Htmtu T 1
I MHALKL COL 1 1 T
'"-OS, i a
To Ward Off Summer
Complexion Ills
it
A Jo))
r- i rvu
&
if
made a re
fer
1
ft
NO WOMAN need longer suffer from falling hmr, itching
scalp, dandruff and the kindred ailments that are growing
more common each day. HAIR-Bitters, a natural remedy, known
to a few people for many years, has now been perfected nd .is
available to every one.
This genuine remedy has already
mark able record in relieving and healing
the most aggravated xorms 01
scalp-eczema, scurf, and other
forms of scaln and hair disease. It
is exceptionally pleasant to use and
it works with amazing rapidity. In
many instances absolute relief is ob
tained with three to four applica
tions. HAIR-Bitters is positively guar
anteed and backed by a money forfeit
as well. It has benefited hundreds right
in this city. It will do the same for you.
R. Belle Calvert, Alaskan Apart
ments, Seattle, writes: "I had itching
scalp for twenty years and it was an incessant annoy
ance to me until I used Hair-Bitters. The first appli
cation allayed the itching and, after two applications,
my scalp is smooth and free from dandruff."
Have HAIR-Bitters applied by your hair-dresser. Use
it -at home regularly. The results -will delight you. At all
drug stores, $2 and $3 the bottle or, write direct to Bervanlt
Mfg. Co., 1104-14 Broadway, Seattle, U. S. A.
juHi!rHarimmiiitiuiHnrnirnnniii!imuinn
5
SEN
WLC&
- J r far 1 m !.
03 ?SA
ill
Blpiiil
jiflf?jjl
A MOY
you have to do is to book your seats;
St. Dunstap'a will do the rest."
All profits on this venture were to
go to the fund.
I always feel that a soldier who
has been blinded suffers the most
grievous wound of all. My eye could
never offend me to such an extent
that I could pluck it out. St. Dun
stan's hostel has done the most won
derful work In caring for the blinded
service men. I can remember of
sending a large consignment of eye
bandages from Portland there.
At church one morning, in the
course of the Psalms for the day we
sang: "Who satisfieth thy mouth
with good things maketh thee young
and lusty as an eagle." I came home
and told our old housekeeper we had
been singing about her at church, and
repeated tae verse. She laughed, but
it is quite true. My mouth is con
stantly being satisfied with Cornish
pasties, gooseberry tart and clotted
cream, toffee tart and granny bis
cuits, chicken pie and other dainties.
I am rapidly getting young and
lusty as an eagle; an American eagle,
not the double-headed kind.
Miles of PMtaa-e Stamps.
Measured in terms of miles accord
ing to a calculation of Director James
L. Willmeth of the government print
ing office, the daily output of holes
perforated from stamps when placed
side by side and edge to edge would
extend in single file a distance of
S63H miles.
Insist on the Genuine
75,000.000 of ti Chew Gam.
The sap of the chicle tree, which
grows in South America, practically
is tha source of the chewing gum of
the United States. The gum Is
cooked, stretched and then shipped
In 25-pound cakes to factories in this
country, where it Is made Into chew
ing rum for snme 7S.000.000 chewi-rs.
To keep the face smooth, white and
beautiful all aummer. there's nothing
Quite eo good as ordinary mercollsed m-ax.
Dlacblored or frecklad skin, ao common, at
this season, is gently, gradually abaorbed
by the wax and replaced by the newer,
freahor akin beneath. Tha face exhibit!
no trace of the wax, which Is applied at
bedtime and washed off mornings. Greasy
creams, powders and rouges, on the other
hand, are. apt to appear more conspicuous
than usual the days of excessive perspi
ration. Just get sn ounce of mercollsed
wax at any drugstore and use It like cold
cream. This will help any skin at once
and In a week or so the complexion will
look remarkably clear, young and healthy.
JEST MZZWl
7h Sf,wm
READ THIS
HELPFUL BOOK
It's FREE with a
package of DIXIE
DYES.
51
'HEN you read
this booklet you.
will be surprised to find
how many things you
can dye and tint at
home, and how easy it
all is. now that DIXIE DYES have re
placed old-fashioned methods.
You'll find DIXIE DYES in the' DIXIE
cabinet on your dealer's counter. This
cabinet shows you just what effect you will
get before you buy.
Ask Your Dealer for
jaTsriZus:
or mail us 10c for a full size package, to
gether with the booklet shown above. State
what color you desire when writing.
CXARKK. WOODWARD DRtG CO,
Portland. Or.. Uial-ibutors.
THE WHITE TAR COMPANY
S8 Veeey Street New York
1
DIXIE
UYliS
ERAL1.S
at. o. s. ru. os.
Ask to see a suit of KOVERALLS. Loos)
carefully at the neckband; it should carry
the red-woven label shown below or the
garment is not the genuine KOVC RALLS
nd it should be if your child is to get this
safeguard
The Qmnenf AwrWs 1'otir Qtikf
The Guarantee Protects You
KOVERALLS give free play, and the mother
never worries for fear the anderclotb.es will
get dirty or tha tender skin scratched. Made
in one pises; ao tight or elastic bands.
Only $240 the suit and you get
A New Suit FREE if They Rip
Two weights many fabrics and col ore, all fa at.
Trimmed in fast-color Galatea of contrasting,
shades. Round neck with long aleeves, or
Dutch neck with elbow slecvaa. Buttonholes
corded; buttons on to atay. Smooth back
bead means easy ironing. Sixes 1 to 8 years.
CanHoai Before
you buy be sure)
tbie label is on the
neck of each euit
Thia label is our
guarantee to you.
Look for it.
$2.00 SlZ
and M
tS.Ut PAT. OFF.
LEVI STRAUSS &CQ
SAJ1 FRANCJSC& CAL.
LOT AGE
181a Pine Street
Actually Removes Hair
Roots Something New!
(Htrralfru Method; Works "Like Made")
To have the superfluous hairs come out,
roots and all, before one's very eyes,
sounds almont too good to be true. Yet
many thousands cf women have proved to
their own atlsfaction that this can he
accomplished eaity, quickly, harmlessly
by meana of the wonderful phelactine
process.
This method 1s not to be compared at
all with any liquid, powder or pane, nor
with electrolysis or anything- else. Nothing
like It ever originated. It causes the hairt
to come out entire, roots Included, leaving
the skin smooth and hairless as a babe's
Phelactlne is non-odorous, non-irritating
n on"-poisonous a child could safely est it
Get a small stick of phelactlne Trom your
drurgist today, follow the simple Instruc
tions, and you will "have a most acreesbie
surprise. Adv.
It's Easy Now to Curl
Hair to Stay Curled
To curl the hair to star curled, nothing
equals the simple silmerine method, it s
little liquid silmerine he applied with a
clean tooth brush before doing up the hair
the loveliest wavy effect Imaginable wil
be in evidence In three hours, and thi-J
will last a -Jong time, regardless of tern
perature or humidity.
Tlis harmless method ft not to oe com
parad with curling by means of hot iron
because, instead of Iniurintt th hair. ItV j
really beneficial. A few ounces of liqui
silmerine. which may,h procured at an1
drug store, will lat for months. Thi be?
way is to divide the hair Into strands an-:
moisten each of them from root to tip
Th curllness will look perfectly "natural,
and the hair will be beautifully glofnx
yet without the least greaslnesa or sUclu
iieirt. Adv.
(