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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (March 9, 1919)
THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAN. - rORTXAXD, , 3IARC1I 9, 1919. STUNNING SPRING WRAPS OF SOFT, HEAVY SATIN WIN ADMIRATION IN FRENCH FASHION CENTERS Latest Parisian Coat Has Real Simplicity Plus-Style and Rare Attractiveness Loose Sleeves and Deep Cuffs Add Materially to Beauty of Garment Dark Colors Predominate. At : . rr- H f-4 i r I 1 : :r - f - I w Ml -v 1 . I , : 4 I a.v f.4-i i v - i f ' ; - ill -1 j f t- ' i . f f r s - F-'U-i ;. I - ' - I i J . j I i i . t : : x - - "t v f " ' '4 r ;v ..ill Mix smoothly the flower, salt and cold milk: stir the hot milk Into this,-return to the pan, let boll up. then cook over hot water 10 to 15 minutes. Add the egg, beaten with the salt, and lot oook until It thickens, when cold add the extract and use for cake fllllnpr. If a fluff y"texture la liked, use two pkk yolks In making the cream as above and when cold fold In one or two egg whites beaten until stiff with H tea spoon salt and Vi teapoon cream of tartar, then beaten until glossy, with level tablespoons sugar for each ckk white. ' Fold this meringue Into the thick custard cream with the flavoring. This cream may also be used for fill- Ins cream puffs or eclairs. When wanted for the latter purpose it can be varied by the addition of a little cara mel or chocolate dissolved in the milk. The vanilla would be added In either case, but might be oomewtiat reduced in amount. If a sweeter filling is wanted add 1 tablespoon extra sugar or sweeten to taste. By add i up 1 tablespoon butter to the mixture while warm and about 3 table spoons lemon juice (or more to taste) to the cold mixture with the meringue and omitting the vanilla, a UHeful sweet fruit salad dressing may be obtained. This, however, is sreatly improved by the addition of a little whipped cream as well as the meringue. Oatmeal. cookies (Mrs. M. L. JIcO One-half cup butter or other shorten- in sr. -t cup sugar, 1 feg. 2 tablespoons milk. 1 cup uncooked rolled oats or oatmeal. 1 cup flour, "b teaspoon bak ing powder. i cup small or cut-up seeded raisins (rolled in flour before adding to the mixture), 1 teaspoon cinnamon, 's teaspoon nutmeg, tea spoon salt. Cream the butter and su gar. Add the. egg very well beaten. then 'the milk, oatmeal, raisins and flour, sifted with the bakintr nowder. spices and salt. The mixture should be very stiff. Drop by small spoonfuls on well-greased baking tins and bake lj or 20 minutes in a moderate oven. Nut meats can be used in place of raisins If preferred. Jojtz yj?j7 JO'eV. MME. PAQCIf is turning out some stunning spring wraps of soft, heavy satin; and the most talked of model is this "Monk's Mantle" of enable brown satin which has taken 1'aris by storm. The wrap has loose sleeves with deep cuffs and to each sleeve is attached a panel extension which merges into the skirt drapery and gives the coat a mantle suggestion. The dark brown color, the loose lines, the girdle, knotted like a monk's cord girdle, and the cowl collar; have given the wrap its name. In another picture you have seen this smart afternoon wrap from a back view, with bands of embroidery cross ing the panel back at lower edge, knee, hip, waistline and shoulder.. . These bands of embroidery do'not cross the front, but end at the lapped front pan els, slightly shorter than' theength of the garment at sides and back. The coat is in the favored seven-eighths length, showing a little of the frock and smart buttoned walking boots. Es pecially graceful is the huge collar of cloth and satin, which gives the simple coat a very dressy suggestion. "Wherever you met' this spring coat you would recognize it as Parisian. There is a simplicity plus style about it, a softness and grace in Its "hang" and who but a Paris couturier would have thought of horizontal bands of embroidery like this? The Brandt coat is for semi-dress -wear and is made of a. "new tricot material that has a ve lour surface. With this rich wool fab ric in the smart "cuir," or leather, brown color, black, satin is effectively combined in pockets, belt and the big Burplice collar which "extends to the foclt In front. The embroidery is done with black and brown silk threads il luminated with fine silver thread. Recipes for Desserts ' Just ' Enough for Two. Uncouragement Given to ' Inexpert Ions Housewives. fT'IIE Inexpert young , housewife is 1. often discouraged by the amount of ingredients required for all the recipes in the kitchen cook book which she ex pected to rely upon, her own experi ence in the art of cookery . not being sufficient to risk tampering with print ed recipes. . Soups in the cook book all seem to demand a quart of milk or stock. Puddings have a maddening way of requiring three eggs and when It comes to halving a recipe what is one to do about three eggs? And if the full recipe is made Mr. Young Husband begins to give evidences on the third evening of baked macaroni or Brown Betty pudding that he feels a-trying sameness in his menu. Here are some "bride" recipes for desserts that will be just enough for two ana notning left over: , Nut custard. Put some bits of stale cake in dessert cups or tall-stemmed glasses; make a boiled custard with one egg. three-fourths of a cup of milk, two tablespoons of sugar and a few drops of vanilla. (The invaluable cook book will reveal to you just how a boiled custard is made).. Chop up the meats of three or four walnuts and ttlr into your hot custard and pour while hot over the bits of cake. When cool and firm add dabs of the beaten whites on top and finish off with little square of jelly, a- maraschino cherry or half a walnut meat Queen of puddings. Soak half a cup of bread crumbs in a cup of milk one nourt beat the yolk of one egg. adl a tablespoon of sugar, a pinch of salt (do cream may be turned out on saucers, when cold and firm, and sorved with cream and preserved strawberry. and a little nutmeg; stir into the soaked crumbs and milk and pour into a small buttered baking dish. Bake about 25 minutes and when cool cover with a layer of jelly or jam and put the beat en whites on top. Brown five minutes and set away until needed. Spanish cream. Soak an eighth of a box of gelatine in an eighth of a cup of cold water; when soft pour over it a quarter of a cup of belling water; make a custard with half a cup of milk, the yolk of an egg, one tablespoon of sugar and a few drops ot vanilla; add the strained gelatine water and lastly stir in the beaten white of th egg. This will fill two glass-dessert cues and th not forgot tte felL- in this -uddias -little. mounds -of- tleliclous Spanish, PORTLAND. Or., Feb. 20. Will you please let m have a recipe for bran wafera. also for- Washington pie with a. cream filling? Am senninc my recipe for oatmeal cookies hoping it may be uweful to xome of your readers. Ihanklng you Tor past favors. MRS. M. L. Mc Thank you very much for your re cipe. I hopo the following will suit you: Bran wafers. One-third cun short ening (part butter if possible), cup sugar, cup molasses, cup water or milk, cup flour, u. teaspoon soda teaspoon cream of tartar, 1 teaspoon salt, bran to make a stiff dough. Cream the shortening and beat in the sugar and the molasses. In cold weather the water can be used warm and beaten in with the butter, sugar and molasses to make the "creaming" quick and easy, In hot weather it is generally better to use cold water. Add the flour, sift ed with the soda, cream of tartar and salt (the amount of salt can be modi fied to suit personal taste), and enough bran to make a stiff dough. The amount will vary somewhat with the fineness of the bran used. lioll very tiiin, cut in squares, fingers, or. dia monds, with a large, .sharp knife, prick over with a fork, and bake until crisp and slightly colored. Caro is needed to secure even baking and crispnesa without undue browning. A cookie sheet should be used if avail able. If not, baking on an inverted baking pan will usually give better re sults than if the wafers are placed in the pan in the usual way. Store in a closely covered tin. The wafers may bo made with little or no sweetening if preferred. In this case add one or two more level table spoons shortening, if liked, and pos sibly a little extra salt, or use a few tablespoons of dry grated cheese for flavoring in place of the sugar and molasses. Washington pie. One-third cup but ter or butter substitute, i cup sugar. well-beaten eggs. cup milk. IV. cups parstry flour. teaspoons (lev el) baking powder, teaspoon salt. Cream the butter, beat in the sugar, then the eggs, alternately with the milk and with a tablespoo nor so of the flour to retain the "creamed but ter" consistency; then add the rest of the flour, sifted with tho salt and bak ing powder. If a very sweet cake is liked, two or three more level tablepoons sugar may be used: but the above quantity is us ually enough, and gives a finer texture. Bake in layer-cake pans, put together when cool with raspberry jam, or with English cream filling as preferred. The jam filling Is. I think, more in accordance with "Washington pie" tra dition. Old-fashioned Washington pies wero frequently arranged with very thin layers, each layer as baked being carefully split with a sharp knife when perfectly cold, so that another layer of jam could be inserted. This is not practical with a cream filling. Another way was to split the cold layers and put them together again with jam. and to use a cream filling between each of these split and filled layers. In any case, no frosting should bo used, but very fine granulated or confectioner's sugar may be sprinkled over the top of the finished cake. Knglish Cream Killing One-third cup cold milk. 1-3 cup flour. 1-3 tea spoon salt. 1-3 cup sugar. 1 cup hot milk. - egg yolks very well beaten (or 1 whole egg as may be most con- , vcnicut)t- tLaspooa vauUU extract. PORTLAND. Or.. Feb. 14. Mv near Mlt Tingle: fan you give- a reeipe for a coffee cake made with ycal that has sort of crumb-looking mlvture on top? Would like also a filling for eako made with grated ap ples. Thanking you in advance. MRS. G. C. I cannot be sure that either of the following recipes is exactly what you had in mind, but if they do not suit you, please write again. "Crumb" Coffee Cake One-fourth cup shortening. 1 cup milk, ai tea spoon salt, '.4 cup sugar. 1 well beaten egg, 1 cake fresh compressed yeast. softened in Vi cup lukewarm water; about 4 cups bread Hour. Scald the milk, add the shortening, sugar and salt, stirring while the shortening is melted and the sugar dissolved. Then cool to lukewarm and add the yeast and about i cup flour. ' let rise in a warm place, then all tho egg, very well beaten, and about 3 Hi cups flour to make a smooth, soft dough, too soft to knead. Mix well, instead of kneading, by beating, and as it gets etiffer, cut ting through and through and turning over. Then cover and let rise. When doubled in bulk, spread in a pan to a depth of about one inch. If liked, at this point a few raisins or stoned cut- up dates may be stuck here and there in the dough or a few pieces of crushed maple sugar may be similarly used if available; but the cofi'ce cako is more usually made without these additions. Cover and let rise until again double in bulk. Brush with melted butter or beaten egg and sprinkle with the "crumb mixture" given below. Then bake about -5 minutes and serve witli coffee or chocolate. If liked, a little mace or nutmeg or powdered cardo- nionis may be used for flavoring, the last named being a favorite in Nor wegian coffee cakes similar to this. Crumb Mixture Three tablespoons butter,. 3 tablespoons sugar. 6 table spoons flour. Cream the butter and sugar together, then work in the flour until the mixture looks like crumbs. This may be left plain or flavored with nutmeg or grated orange or lemon rind. as preferred. Fine sifted brown sugar may be used if the flavor is liked. Apple Cako Killing Two cups grated raw apple. 3 tablespoons lemon juice. s to 1 cup sugar, 1 egg, 1 tablespoon butter. Put all the Ingredients but the egg into the double boiler and cook until the sugar is dissolved, then add the egg, very well beaten, and let thicken. W hen cool use for cake filling or as sauce for a plain pudding or for short cake or as pic filling for a simple crust pie with or without meringue. I give the recipe with grated apple as requested, but I think about the same result can be secured by the use of lis to 2 cups stiff, smooth apple sauce. rfm? M N936!,' k l Nemo Self-Reducing Corset No. 361 $3.75 will be welcomed by those who are eco nomically inclined. It is the result of a successful attempt to reconcile the high cost of material and labor with the demand for a corset that is truly economical. Nemo Self -Reducing Corset No. 361 com bines the comfort and extreme durability for which Nemo Corsets have so long been famous with the Hygienic-Style-Service which protects the health and improves the figure. Nemo Self-Redncbvr Corset No. 361 $3.75 Twenty other Self 'Reducing models $4.25 to $7 11111111111111)7 i They make you look and feel smaller. They're Self-Adjustable. They are made in four teen styles, and in all sizes. $1.00 $1.50 $2.00 NEMO HYGIENIC-FASHION INSTITUTTUi 9 FOOD SITUATION IN ENGLAND SHOWING GREAT IMPROVEMENT Many Articles, Heretofore Difficult to Secure, No Longer Rationed, Although Prices Remain Iligh Eggs Quoted at 11 Cents Each. PORTLAND, Or., Kcb. 18. Will you kindly give directions for a sooj lemon pio with a clear, transparent filling and a good me riniyue? Would like lo know what makes my meringue tough and leathery. A!,o. a recipe for a lemon pie in whleh bread crumbs can be used. Thanking you In advance. MRS. J. B. V. Clear lemon pic One-quarter cup cornutarch, 1 cup sugar, 1 cup boiling water, onc-lialf teaspoon salt. 2 egg yolks, 1 tablespoon butter, 3 to 4 tablespoons lemon juice according to preference, grateil rind of one lemon (yellow part only). Mix the tfugar and corn starch combine with the hot water, without "lumping," and return to the pan. Let boil up once, then add the other ingredients and mix thoroughly. Turn into a very lightly baked pie-shell, made with any good nhort crust or plain flaky pastry. This is most conveniently made by baking it on the outside of an inverted pie plate. Prick the pastry while bakinc so as to let out the air bubble which usually forms between the pie plate and the pastry, and when the paste is very lightly baked, but not yet hard ened. Klip from the outsidw to the in side of the pic plate and fill with the mixture, made as above. Bake until the mixture thickens, let cool slightly, then cover with a meringue made by beating stiff '1 egg whites with one-quarter teaspoon salt and one-quarter teaspoon cream of tar tar. When stiff enough to give a "clean cut." when tried with a knife (but not beaten until granular) add four level tablespoons fine granulated sugar, beating only cnoufth to give a nice glossy appearance. Spread on the slightly cooled (but not cold) pio fill ing, or apply with a pastry bag as preferred, and return to a slow oven to dry out the merinsue. The merincue should not color in tho slightest before 8 or 10 minutes. A hot oven with "hurry-up" methods in coloring the meringue is the most usual cause ot toughness and a leathery texture. Some makers get the best results by lightly sifting a little fine granulated sugar over the meringue before relum ing it to the oven. Baking the crust lightly, as described above, tends to prevent either of two frequent faults found in lemon pics soggy uudcrcrust, or over-browned edge crust. Lcruoii pie with bread crumbs One cup soft, white, fresh, sifted bread crumbs. 3 tablespoons butter. 1 cup sugar, half teaspoon salt. 2 egg yolks very well beaten. 1 cup boiling water 3 to 4 tablespoons lemon juice. 1 grated yellow rind of one lemon. Pour the hot water on the crumbs then beat in the other ingredients. Two different textures may be ob tained as follows: (a) Use the above mixture as filling for a single crust pie. baking crust and filling together (with good bottom heat to prevent a soggy undercrust) and finish with mf.ringuo made from - egg whites as above. (b) Beat the meringue as above and fold it Into the prepared filling, then place the resulting fluffy mixture in a pie Plate lined with pastry and hake until firm enough not to fall when the hoi Air no loncr ta Hates mo iouus, BY EDITH K. LAN YON". SOMKVIERE IN KNC5L.AND. Feb. 10. My nerves are gradually re covering fym influenza and I feel more like myself again. The American Red Cross has all the nurses it needs at pre nt. so I am biding' my time. Have volunteered as a tort of under-study nurse to be called upon if needed. My doctor said I was not even to put on my uniform for two months after I left the hospital, so I still have a month to rest. The only profersional work I havo done was to bandage the broken wing of a pet rooster. The food problem is much ce&ler. I was surprised to find when I got out of the hospital that white bread was once more to be scon in the land, but tho greatest surprise of all was to be invited to parlako of a real mutton-chop. It seemed like seeing an old and long-lot friend. I had not seen one for years, tjut remem bering my doctor's parting advice, to "retit as much as you can and eat as much as you can. nurse" I did it full justice. Eggs are 11 cents each; we are promised plenty of cheese in three months' time, and lemon marmalade Is positively a drug in tho market. We are allowed one ounce each of butter a week; an amount anyone could easily manage at a meal. If one is so reckless she must use her five ounces of margarine fur the rest of the week. Pork, bacon, sausage, tinned meat and poultry are all unrationcd, but very dear. . The Portland tea party was a great suecefs. The guests wished me to mention that they got more curranlo in one bito of that glorious fruit-rake than they had ceii in a year. There as a perfect orgy of teas in the pretty village where I was staying. I certainly sampled lea out or all the best china belonging to the first families of the district. At these parties talk of war, peace or the in fluenza was taboo. vo lightly con versed of early snowdrops or whether the family chickens were laying or not. I remember one woman who kept re arking that her family had "a per fect passion" for chocolate bl.inc mange, and how glad she was that It wasn't rationed. Such funny, cold. flabby stuff to have a perfect pac tion for! Even the cat, I remember, devoured it passionately. Not a party had a cake like mine, though. Tea parties are a great feature of English life. I recall how I nearly wrecked my career as a nurse in me cany war days by going out to tea with the colonel In charge of my hospital. A dire offense and against all rules, only I didn't know it. Oh. those rules, what a. thorn in the flesh they were. . . -'It" is a novelty to hear the church bells chiming, jus-t as they did in the days before air raids. The bells of Westminster aro being repaired ready to ring joy chimes for the peace celebration. They had gone out of tune during their long silence. One of thee same bells run? to celebrate- the defeat of the Spanish ar mada in Queen Elizabeth's reign. Ect us hope when peace coincs that It will be the right kind of a peace and not one which will leavo the Her mans unpunished. The women feel more bitter against them than the men who havo fought, I believe. A woman who has been robbed of her men by this cruel war feels as remorseless as a cat robbed of her kittens. Nurses feel no sympathy for the Huns who maltreated their pa tients: for to a nurse her patients are like beloved children. We. who dressed the rrucl Vounrit of our men. cannot forget. Men are different. They seem to feel a cer tain sentimental pity for a vanquished foe. ... None of the public moneys entrusted to the ministry of munitions was (w a&lcd ou rac, Icr'tuy pay acluaUy deducted for the time t was lil in the hospital. This in spite of my illness having been raucrht througii nurs ing influenza patients. A case of "injured on active service," if ever there was one. I am keeping my depleted check as a souvenir of my war work on mu nitions, as well as the triangular brai-s badge engraved with the words "On War Service." Had I been a muni tion worker and caught influenza at a dance or at a picture show, I should probably have been treated with ten der sympathy and got full pay whilst I was ill. It la splendid to see our soldiers coming home again, but pitiful to see the returned prisoners from (lermany, shattered in health and aged many yearn through their treatment in the prison camps. The only ones who seem to have been decently treated are the ones who were sent to work on farms. I gave books and magazines to a soldier who was home on leave from Bulgaria and sent some yesterday to an American flying officer from Vir ginia, who is in the hospital here, lie was injured by crashing into a tree in the fog. Tho big soldier is still In Turkey and has sent me some pictures of places W'hlch took his fancy. The news of my unhappy Christ mas' had not yet reached my grateiui patients. I shall be glad when it does, as I am till in that convalescent state which craves sympathy, and I know 1 shall get plenty of it from them. When it comes to grateful patients, munitioners are not in it. 1 feel as annoyed at having caught influenza from them as I did when I got bit ten by civilian fleas. ... Ju.-t now I am in a town in the north, after recuperating for a while at a village between here and the works in Scotland. It was a long and inconvenient jnurnrjr here al though the distance is not great. The first words which greeted inc when 1 got on the train were th-se: "L'nneces sary traveling uses coal needed to warm your homes." They were printed on a notice put up in a prominent part of the carriage and did not seem a very kind welcome. 1 refused to feel at all conscience stricken, as my Journey was elrictly necessary and 1 wax traveling- on a government pass. Traveling is cer tainly mud as inconvenient as pos sible in order to discourage would-be travelers. All trains carefully miss connections and one has to wait hours at junctions. "Junction," I believe, means "a Joining." but the trains cer tainly don't Join. The coal which- usually warms waiting rooms is pre sumably warming someone's home, be cause it Is conspicuously absent from the waiting-room fireplaces. Even the chairs repulse you. no doubt think ing you ought to be sitting in your chair at home. One tipped mc out when I tried to sit down and rest my weary convalescent bones. I waa glad lo find that my discomfiture brought faint smiles to the faces of my fel!ov- travelers. A polite eoldicr with a row fo decorations alt across his chest helped mo to my feet. The waitrefs in the refreshment room actually pre sented me with u box of chocolates. which quite made up for the unkind tiesa of the chair. Chocolates are so rare and precious that the had none for sale. Some time ago I had a very inter esting letter from the nursing sister in Erancc. when she was stationed at a casualty dressing station on the P.elglan border during the lat great "push." the station caught fire and sne, aescrioes ii niuei k rttpn ica iiy . "One night in- the midst of a rush a fire accidentally started and soon spread so that in an incredibly short time five wards were burned down. But in less than half an hour every patient was removed to a safe place without a tingle casualty. The order lies and eurgeons and nil sisters on duty carried the wounded rapidly from the wards in blankets, on stretchers, mattresses and even In some cas pulling out the beds so that the pa tients need, not be disturbed more than necessary, Ouc poor 'man,- -who- tad only just gotten comfortably warm in hcd. exclaimed when carried out into tho field. "There's no end to tins damned war.' indorsing most em phatically our unexpressed thoughts. Warm drinks and blankets were given around to the patients until ambu lances came and took thm away to another hospital and an ambulance tra in. "None of us will ever forget th.tt tracic night. Electric light cut off. lurid flames, wounded on the ground in every direction, ether, gas and oxygen cylinders going off from time to lime like guns. Happily an opera tion was finished just before the flumes reached the theater and the patient and surgeons got out in tim; but not before all personal belong ings were lost: in one surgeon's pocket f?0 got burned. By the next evening the hospital was again in working order and 500 more cases were ad mit ted." Careless Use of Soap Spoils the Hair Soap should be used very carefully, if you want to keep your hair looking Its best. Most soaps and prepared sham poos contain too much alkali. This dries the scalp, makes the hair brittle, and ruins it. Tho best thing for steady use Is Just ordinary mulsified cocoanut oil (which Is pure and greaseless), and is better than the most expensive soap or any thing else you can use. One or two teaspoonfuls will cleanso the hair and scalp thoroughly. Simply moisten the hair with water and rub it In. It makes a.n abundance of rich. creamy lather, which rinses out easily, removing every particle of dust, dirt, dandruff and excessive oil. The hair dries quickly and evenly, and it leaves the scalp soft and the hair fine and silky, bright, lustrous, fluffy and easy to manage. You can get mulsified cocoanut oil at any pharmacy, it's very cheap and a. few ounces will supply every member of the family lor months. Adv. TODAY'S BEAUTY TALK You can enjoy a delightful bhampoo with very little effort and for a very trifling cost, if you get from your druggist's a package of cantrox and dissolve a teaspoonful in a cup of hot water. This makes a full cup of shampoo liquid enough so it Is easy to apply it to all the hair instead of just the top of the head. Your sham poo is now ready. Just pour a little at a time on the scalp and hair until both are entirely covered by thpc daintily perfumed preparation tht thoroughly dissolves and removes every bit of dandruff, excess oil and dirt. After rinsing, the hair dries quroAy with a fluffiness that makes it seem heavier than it is, and takes on a richer luster and a softness tlrifl makes arranging it a pleasure. .VJ v. DARKENS GRAY HAIR Dainly Tablet-Toilet Necessity K'rp our hair young, soft and lus trous. If your hair is gray or faderi, use Ncver-Tel, the world's greafc-,t hair restorative. relicatrly nerfunrd and easily dissolved in a little water as used. Not a dye and does not st.n. A real dressing that does the work so gradually your own friends can "Never Tel." At your druggist's. JiOc, or dir t from NVver-Tel Laboratories Co., I-p. 154. Kansas City. Mo. Adv. Just One Application and the Hairs Vanish Toilet Talks) Any woman can keep her skin free from unsightly hair or fuzs if she will follow these simlpe instructions. "V h- hairy growths appear, apply a vjmple paste, made by mixing some water Uk powdered delatone. Apply this to hairy' surface and after - or 3 minutes nb off. wash the skin and the hairs 8r gone. This is a harmless treatment. ut be euro you set the rcil dcls-ioue. Ailv,