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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (March 9, 1919)
- 7 PARISIAN MILLINERS EMPHASIZING FLAT MODELS IN HAT SILHOUETTES THIS SPRING Turban From Paulette Typical of New Mode and Is One of Most Striking Millinery Importations of Season. Saucy Little Bows of Grosgrain Ribbon Feature. THE SUNDAY OREGONIAN, TORTLAXD, MARCH 9, 10W. h I FT' " ; ' '' 1 Ml I - ! f ," v -J u : : ?zsz THEKB '8 a radical change In ht silhouettes this spring' and manj of the best Parisian milliners are emphasizing flat models in tricorne ef fects. This turban from Paulette is typical of the new mode and ia one of the striking millinery importations of the season. Paulette has draped a placque of dark blue hemp over a tri torne brim of deep orange straw and has tied rim and crown together with nauc little V-ws of fcrosgrain ribbon. The edge of the big hemp pla'cque pro jects at one s'de and is tied together With ribbon in a casual manner. Last winter's felt hat tried to look like straw; and here is next summer's Btraw hat doing the best it can to re semble wool! Jeanne Baroz has achieved here a very fetching little tarn for a young wearer. The hat Itself is made of a new woolly looking straw braid in pale gray; and the tarn crown, and a part of the brim covered with marguerites made of chenille and vel vet. A soft tassel ornament draws down the tarn crown at one side. From Paulette comes this model, made of a queer rope-like straw that is braided to cover crown and brim in a.n apparently heavy but incredibly light effect. It is the color of the hat that the shape is a familiar mushroom type becoming to all faces. In deep, lcep, burnt orange is the ropy straw, jtnd three burnt orange asters are placed In a row up and down one Fide of the brim. This new flower effect is balanced at the other side of the hat by a wee bow of dark blue gros grain ribbon. Old-Time Hat Pin Doomed by Modern Device. Pretty Dance Krocfc of Gieorsette Is Admired for A omen's far. HELIOTttOPE is the shade of shades just now, and it is often combined with flesh tint in most charming ef fect. New negligees of heliotrope chif fon have flesh pink satin foundation clips, and. dance frocks in the two dainty colors are enchanting. A pretty dance frock for a debutante is of flesh jink georgette with heliotrope moire ribbon for trimming. Three bows of the ribbon border iho tunic and two rows frilled edge the rounded decol letage. The sash is made of two lengths of the ribbon tied in a small low at one fide, the four ends flutter Ins to the knee. No more hatpins to stab the eyes of Inoffensive neighbors in trolley cars. There is a new hat-fastener on the rnarket which is just as easy to use as the dangerous hatpin, and a deal safer for everybody around. The fastener is sewed to the inside of the hat and lias a short prong that projects through the crown to' the outer side. Vhen the hat is on, another short prong with an inconspicuous knob- DseCuticuratoKeep YcurHairfromFalling How many times hare barbers riven this advice to men who are losing; their hair because of dandruff and sciId irritation. At nieht rub Curi- cura Ointment into the scalp. Next morning shampoo with Cuticura Soap and hot water. A clean, healthy scalp means good hair. ..t r-,ir- TaiV-um is an anrisertic.. orwohy- lactic, soothinc dusting powder of delicate. fascmatins fragrance, rreiywnm!. I; - ft; 1 v: V -:; T ' ,;' K ' ' i ' ' ? . :' V head is screwed over the projecting prong and a eort of curving hairpin attached to the fastener inside the hat is pushed through the hair. When the hat is about to be removed, the outside prong if unscrewed and the sm.yl hair pin inside goes back into place. . The very newest thing in trimming for little girls' dresses is an embroid PERHAPS no feature of auction bridge is less understood or more abused than the double. Some players have the doubling fever and announce a double as blithely and with as little apparent concern for the con sequences as those who were called the "merry no-trumpers" and "light hearted makers of expensive suits" at bridge, were wont to make wild and unwarranted declarations. A sound double adds zest to the game, creating a pleasant spirit of rivalry and spurring players to do their best. An unsound double weakens the con fidence of the remaining players and has a demoralizing - effect generally. Not only this, but it is the most dis astrous policy for the doubling side that it can possibly adopt. It is 'worse than even a poor bid, since at one's bid the adversaries at best can score but penalties. An unsuccessful double often enables the adversary to score game, perhaps the rubber game, which had it not been for the. double would have been impossible. Frequent doubles are a sign manual of poor playing. .An inveterate doubler is always a weak player. Some one has said that if one never loses a double it shows he doesn't double often enough. But this is ut terly illogical. If the bid is sound the opportunities for doubling develop but rarely, and it is far bettor to 'be too conservative in regard to doubling than not conservative enough. One of our best-known authorities does not hes itate to fay that he- would rather lose three chances on potable doubles that njioht .win -than, make -one poor, double IBBinliiSM JllllffillllflWwrtM 111 Sj-j"gzss,af:sfS Wee i, ered device showing the tiny French mascot figures. Ninette and Rintintin in fright colors. Sometimes three of tiie little groups are embroidered on a single frock; other frocks have Ninette and Rintintin in a border effect, the embroidered figures very tiny, of course. Little flower pots with equally minute flowers are also embroidered in bright hues on juvenile frocks and Pinafores. and lose it. How many of our average players can make the came statement? Doubies are' divided into two classes, the business double and the informa tory double. It is the business double which I will take up today. The busi ness double is the double made with the object to secure doubled penalties when one sees the chance to defeat the contract. Business doubles are sub divided - into free doubles and forced doubles. As explained, when the bid ia sound the opportunity to make a good double develops so infrequently that it is per haps easier to say when one should not double than when one should. Never when it is the only bid which one stands a chance to defeat. Never on trump strength alope. Never on one suit alone. Never on low bid. It Is too easy for the adversaries to escape. Never when, if the declarant makes good, the doubled valuations will en able him to go game, but, undoubled, he could not. Rarely, if ever, when bitting on declarant's right. Now as to the first: Never double when it 'is the only bid you stand a chance to defeat. Take the following case. Declarant bids no trumps. You, the oldest hand, hold a solid suit, say of diamonds, six or more to the ace. king and queen. Ton may or may not have re-entry. In bridge proper this would be an ideal hand for a double: in auction it would be the craziest thing possible. The difference lies in the fact that in bridge a declaration once made cannot be changed and the success of the double Is sssured. In auction, tliu Lid is liatilo to bo vhanged; t , " 4 . f. - - -W -ii h, " '-r- m m rT St Sir YZ ;' 1.1 fc "".,r- iSTCr.,!- ii.vWf.f indeed, the very fact of its being dou bled may cause the declarant or his partner to shift and it may be ulmost anything before the bidding ceases. I3y your double you would thus have thrown away the gifts the gods had offered you and lost your only chance of a score. Never double on trump strength alone. The success of a double depends as a rule more upon suit strength, aces and guarded king?, especially if the con tract be a comparatively low one, than upon trump strength, though the latter is by no means to be dihpiscd. The chief thing is to be able to count ax many tricks in your hand as will make you book and one trick over, and to be equally able to double any other make. Never double a small contract, as a two or even three-trick bid, unless you are so strong generally that you may double any- declaration to which the declarant or his partner may rhift. If the contract Is small it is generally nn easy matter for them to change if they wish to do so. Never double when the bid. undou bled, would not give declarant game but the doubled valuation would. This is of the greatest importance, yet 1 wonder how many players give It a thought o take the pains to familiar ise themselves with the state of the score before announcing a double. In the modern game of auction, game is the goal which all players hope to at tain in making their bid. It is for this reason that some players at love score feel the only bid worth announcing is a major bid. no trumps or spades or hearts, the first of which goes game at three tricks, the two remaining at four. If they announce a minor suit at all. they do so more in the hope that their partner, encouraged by the fact that they hold a certain strength in the suit, will advance the declaration., preferably to no trumps; if not, to one of the two major suits. Game, then, being the end in view which the de clarant is striving to attain, why should the adversary by a rash double often enable him to accomplish it. when had it not been for the double he could not have done so? As an Illustration: Declarant bids "two hearts," the score being love. "Two hearts," undoubled assuming him to make good will be but J 6. "Two hearts" doubled will give him 32 points, game. Again, declarant, be ing already six points to the good, bids "two clubs." "Two clubs." un doubled. is 12 pointy; added to six. IS. "Two clubs." doubled, equals 24 points, which, added to the six already scored, makes 30. game. A consideration not to be ignored is that the side first making game gains a decided advant age over the opposing side, it needing but one more game to win rubber, while the opponents still must win two. Some players double "on principle," as they say, whenever the contract reaches a high figure. Such players act on the theory that a high bid is never successful, but In this they are mistaken. If they have the strength seemingly necessary to the double Ihey undoubtedly should double under these conditions; if not, they should refrain. The higher the contract the greater the chance necessarily that the double will bo successful, but play often firings up many unexpected developments, and save when one holds the commanding trumps, it being a suit bid. one can never be absolutely assured. Ares of side suits, apparently invulnerable, are lia ble to be trumped. When the adversa ries have carried their bid to a high figure, both perhaps having taken part in the bidding, and yu yourself have been Juntified in a high bid. you can not logically look for much tf any help from your partner. i:ase your cal culations, therefore, on your hand mm alone At alt ' doubles, roc' that mat DAINTY, carefully groomed and everywhere admired, this little woman had lived in various cities on the Continent, but London was the place she loved best of all. It was during one of her sojourns here something like ten years ago that she first tried CR&ME ELCAYA. Never since has she used any other cream. Never since has she had to worry about her complexion. Of late, she has found it more and more difficult to secure this ideal, non-greasy, disappearing toilet cream. And she isn't willing to get along without it. It means more to her than iust a cream to keep her skin soft and pleasing in texture. She feels that it imparts a sense of elegance to her person that subtle nicety that often proves more charming than beauty itself. Here is what she writes. Villa Farnesina, Dear Sirs: . CaPri Iia!y- Please tell me -what I am going to do -when I can no longer seeure Crime Ehayal It has tttl only doubled in price but J haz e had great difficulty in finding any here in A'ales. Could you send it to me directs I have used it for many years, and I shall not know how to do without it. A woman can be as sweet and dainty as she wants to be. Taking care to use CREME ELCAYA every time before applying your face powder will Tepay you many times in terms of personal loveliness. You would under stand this better than I could tell you could you see some of the many frank letters written me by women in all parts of the world. This special formula, given hereunder, would not be followed unfailingly by so many women of beauty were Begin today to make your skin beautiful by this easy formula A little Crime Elcaya rubbed gently into the shin; then if you need color, a very little good Rouge spread carefully over the cheeks before the Cream is quite dry; and after that the film of Face Powder over all. Before you'd believe it possible, your kin will be so cood to look at that you will eo often to your mirror. And the joy of knowing that you give pleasure to all who see you will add new joy to life. CREME ELCAYA is the original non-greasy disappearing toilet cream. It was introduced first in New York in 1900. To-fay its purity and superiority are acknowledged throughout the world. Your dealer has ELCA YA and has sold it for years. Ask him. James C. Crane, Sole Agent Crcme 111 cars Elcaya Face Powder Elcaya Rouge) 1-1S Madison Ave., New York O James C Crane ISIS ter, it is safest to be able to count at least your book in your own hand. The adversaries" book varies in the1 different hands according to the num her of tricks the declarant contracts to take. To ascertain the number of tricks in a given case which comprise your book, subtract the number the declar ant acreea to take from 15. the total number f tricks. Tho difference rep resents your book. If. forjnstance, de clarant bids "4 hearts," or contracts to win in all 10 tricks, as 10 from 13 is 3. your book ia 3 tricks. If declar ant's contract is for "5 no trumps." in all 11 tricks, as 11 from 13 is 2. your book is 2 tricks. If you take simply the number comprising your book, in this case two tricks, declarant makes good. It Is the number one or more you take in excess of your book that means defeat for the declarer and pen alties to you. A double, when one sits on the right of the declarant, calls for exceptional strength, as the strong adversary, the declarant, plays after rather than be fore you. and he, rather than you. has the advantage of position. A player Is in the best position to double when tho declarant sits to his right. In such case he plays after rather than before the strong player, l'osition has more to do In determining the right or wrong of certain policies than many players begin to comprehend. When there is a doubt between a double which apparently would be suc cessful and a bid which would likely go game one should calculate as closely as porsible whether penalties or game will he of the greater value in the long run. While it is impossible to say definitely in this regard, as a rule it Is better to choose the rubber game unless one can see a 30' or greater point penalty, or the ordinary game unless at least a 200-point penalty is seemingly in sight. At the beginning of play it is well generally to pile up penalties; then buckle down and work for game. A double frequently results In a re double, and If successful gives the de claring side a score far out of propor tion to what it would have had had you observed the policy of silence. For this you have no one to blame Jbuf yourself. Many players are under tho impres sion that it is their bounden duty, no matter what the cost, to take their p.-irtncr out of a double. This is en tirely fallacious. If a player under such conditions have a bid which he would have been justified in announ cing under normal conditions, he gen erally fliould announce it. Lacking tbe strenglh necessary to the bid and be ing unable to redouble, his policy is a pass. If at such a time you make a poor bid you often place your partner in dilemma from which he finds It difficult to extricate himself. He may have nothing at your bid and can see nothing but the chance of complete rout. He cannot go back to his own bid. for if the adversary was Justified In doubling it at the lower figure. It would be infinitely simpler and entail greater chance of sucess to do so at the higher fmure. Your partner may have been well pleased at the double; h.j may even have contemplated a re double, llow disconcerting, then, to find his plans frustrated and a poor bid one which also stands a chance of being doubled substituted for his good one. Bear in mind, then, that un less you have a genuine bid to offer, your partner being doubled, you had hot pafs and leave the question to hii.i. Have confidence In hini and tn Ins judgment: credit him with the acu men necessary to handle the situation In the be-t rifctnner possible to your mutual interests. Announce no policy .and do nothing which jour holding does not fully Justify. ' Dm exception v.'UJxli I will cBJeavur Yours faithfully. it rot an aid to keeping them beautiful. Countless numbers would not have used it and no other for ten to fifteen years had it not helped them to have that irresistible attribute of lovely women an exquisite skin. Go now and get your minor and look closely at your skin. Is it tine-grained, soft and fresh like a girl's? Docs, it bring you a glow of pleasure just to look at it? If so, Crcme Elcaya will help you to keep it beautiful. If not. to point out exists to the above. Tour partner starts, we will sy. with h, club. Second player passes. You have a goocl heart bid. but do not announce it for the reason that you can h- l; hi m at clubs and that you will go game hi readily at clubs ns heurts. Fourth plsyer bids diamonds: your partner goes to "2 clubs." and the process is continued until your partner lias been forced to a high figure and his left (oup right) opponent doubles. Now announce hearts. You do not increase the contract in so doing, and If it should happen you also are doubled by the player who originally doubled you at least sit on the right tide of him and have the advantage of position, which was not so in the case of your partner. Conditions at Brest Bad as Reported, Says One. Hood Itlter Boy. JaM Itctaraed From France Saya lloya Kraiutred to Siren on Rlankrti Thrown oa Mad Kaee Deep Many Ilr. HOOD 'RIVErt Or., March 8. (Spe cial.) Horace It. Skinner, son of Mr. and Mrs. Frank K. Skinner of the Oak Grove orchard district, is the first of three Hood Itiver members of the 1st gas regiment which had a i.iruc share in pursuing the Huu.s to their lair in the last months of the war, to return home. Mr. t-kinner. while he modestly d--cline's to discuss himself, has much praise for his comrades, two of whom are Sergeants Joseph M. Johnson, grad uate of Whitman college. Walla Walla, Wash., and Sergeant Henry Bragg, grad uate of the Oregon Agricultural col lege where he was a basketball star, "was recommended for the distinu "Sergeant Ulagg." says Mr. Skinner, was recommended for the distin guished service cross for general ef ficiency at the front. He was recom mended for a commission, w hich was lost as a result of the armistice. Ser geant Johnson stood mighty high with the men." Mr. Skinner says conditions at Brest were all Jhat they have been reported. Men of combat divisions jusl back front hot service were called on to shift materi.ils, coal chips or cngago In other work. "Fortunately foi me," hvsays," I was made a color guard just before we got to Hrest and escaped all of the work; but incn of my company went thruuh the mill. Wc would stand there an hour and a half in mud knee deep awaiting our meals of slum. Many men died. We slept at night on blankets thrown on this mud. It was fearful." FRECKLES March Hrlit Oat I aalga'ly Spots, llow to Remove !&ally. The woman with tender skin dreads March because it Is likely to cover her face with ugly freckles. No matter how thick her veil, the sun and wind have a strong tendency to make her freckle. Fortunately for her peace of mind. Othine double strength. makes it possible for even tho.o most suscep tible to freckles to keep their skin clear and white. No matter how stub born a case of freckles you have, the double strength Othinc should remove them. Get an ounce from your druggist and bani.h the freckles, iio&cy buck, if it fails. Adv. J " "w'-TTrT'g Mr. Skinner thinks conditions could! have been bettered. He says the un expected early signing of the armis tice, coupled with official delinquen cies. re to blame for the regrettable conditions. He says those In charge at Brest, when hih officials, appeared on tours of Inspection, became very busy Just previous to the visits In shovel ing mud and laying rows of duckboards for the visiting officials. Mr. Skinner has ramn praise and f'Vfr criticism for the V. M. A. TINT AWAY GRAY OR FADED HAIR The Safe, Harmless Method by Which Thousands of Women Keep Looking Young. TRIAL PACKAKE FT KRKU There are many hair "dyes" and so called "restorers." but there is only one "Brownatone" Hair Tint safe, harmless, instant in results, easy to apply and preferred by every avdman who has tried it. Drwt. atone Is My Brst )Vrleal." Thi wonilcrf ill preparation docs not rih or wash off. If you want a. dc -litrhtful Mjrpris. Jtit bru.li or comb :i little "Krouna1"nr" tlirouli mir jtny, ftreakei. r hla-hei bnir and t it rhanpf like ma?K t froldon. toft or de'p rich brown, or black any hriu ticMrrd the cxacl color to feet off your complexion. 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