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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (April 21, 1918)
THE SUXDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, APRIL 21, 1918. PRETTY NECKWEAR ESSENTIAL IN BRINGING COSTUME UP TO THE MOMENT OF SMARTNESS No Spring Suit Is Quite All It Should Be Unless Accompanied by New Waistcoat Cuffs Held Equally as Impor tant as Collars These Days by Fashionable and Correctly Dressed t omen. flWk tS T -X -v-""4 ' , .iy'i . : -"All TIE point of supreme Interest on which the tya focuwi In any tprluB cooluotc la apt to b the nrkwear of th.t costume. By tieck rerv of course, one understands a term mtanlnc not a collar particularly, but a colUr-Jnd-Mo-forth. The collar may extend Into a, waistcoat that reaches quite to the hips, but It Is still popularly known as "neckwear" at least one finds It anions neckwear ex hibits and sees It advertised as "new Spring neckwear" In the newspapers. t:uffs also are neckwear: so are chemisettes. h;Of -sleeve, and even whole blouses t minus sleeves), which so by the name of cutmpes. With all these fascinatinic and varied accessories a very simple wardrobe may be made to r3 fr several times as elaborate as it Is. In fact, neckwear la Its comprehensive classification, can do more to brirnc a costume up to the moment of smartness than any other three accessories toKethrr. No t-prlnr suit is quite all that It should be unless It is accompanied by one of the new waistcoats. The waist coat may not show at all until the coat Is unfastened, but if the splc and pan new waistcoat la there the coat will certainly be unfastened and thrown hack sooner or later, whn op portunity permits. other coats are built especially to reveal waistcoats and the original raison d'etre of the waistcoat, you know, was to fill the sap where coat fronts were skimped COLOVEU JOXKS- Interesting article on the discard, w htcli appeared in this column of last Sunday s ' paper, bas elicited the following, also on the discard, from r- . . Johnson, another of our well-known local play ers. Mr. Johrwon was one of the pro moters and "crack players" of the Port land Whist flub, the memory of which still lingers pleasantly in the minds of many of our players. Mr. Johnson brings to bear. In auction the same adaptability and skill which marked his career as a whist player and made him then, as now. a partner to be sought and a foe man calling for one's very best and finest-cut steel. The announcement will be received with Interest that Mr. Johnson is soon to furnish us with a write-up of the old whist club, containing, among other things, a brief reference to various of Its members, the most of whom are bow widely scattered, not a few hav ing crorsed the great divide. tils paer follows: "An interesting discussion is going " ll- l: ' " -1 " " " " . - .r-- , r .... r; . for conservation of worsted fabrics. But the smartest effect Is obtained when a coat fastening In the ordinary ainitle or double-breasted manner is unbuttoned and pushed back to show the waistcoat, the loose belt buttoned across the waistcoat holding- the lines of the coat In to the figure, trimly, for an unbuttoned Jacket that flies about and salts, unbelted, from the shoulders has a slovenly suggestion that is never quite smart. A very good-looking waistcoat Is of white pique of rather wide welt, com bined with the sheerest of white organdy. The organdy is laid in Inch tucks across the front, and a curving panel that runs around the lower edge of the waistcoat is of pique. Big pearl buttons close the pique fronts, and the long, narrow collar is of pique. An other smart waistcoat Is of blue and whits nlald cotton cheviot with collar and facings of white pique. This waist coat fastens In double-oreasieo. siyie, and one front slopes obliquely from the right side of the throat to a point Just above the left side or tne waisiune. a facing of white pique turning back in a long, narrow lapei along mo oblique line. The other front rises smoothly to the throat, and there Is no neck opening, a tall, close stock of white pique encircling the throat. There Is a.declded smartness about this high collared waistcoat, under a belted Jacket of dark blue serge or heather mixture worsted. on at the present time among some of our local players with regard to the discard. At old-time whist, when qual ities Ot nanos wer uiwm - J vealed than In modern auction bridge. the question of the discard was at tended with rather more perplexity than Is the case in auction. In auction each player practically, or nearly so, places his hand face upward on the table. The dealer usually begins by telling everybody of his best suit; the next one his. and so on. As the bid ding proceeds, the value of each hand ought to be fairly well visualized, mentally, by the alert player, and the exposure of dummy's hand should further aid him in confirming, or, if necessary, adjusting his mental ar rangement of the cards in the different hands. Risky laaevatlea Costly. "This, of course. Is Irrespective of the discard, but as It is more or less correlated with it, the player who is called upon to lead to his" partner's discard might well benefit by bearing in mind the mental picture so formed. "I make no pretentions to mentorshlp In auction bridge, and any opinions herein advanced should be accepted merely as the crude offerings of a player who Is fond of the game, and, let me confess, fond also of risky inno vations now and again, not to be found in the usually accepted book rules. "On an adversary's trump declara tion, I favor a discard from one's long est or strongest suit: on a no-trump call, from one's shortest or weakest. Of course in either case one would not discard from queen twice guarded if it could possibly be avoided. However, with ace. queen and one or more other cards of a suit in dummy's hand to my right, and one or two sure tricks in my own hand in an established suit. I would risk baring my king in dum my's suit rather than discard a win ning card or two, depending upon a finesse In the dummy hand for an en try. This, preferably, when playing against an experienced adversary. With others, or with timid players, it is safer to take no chances. "To revert to my opening statement: When the strength of the different hands Is so well exploited to begin with, as It generally is in auction, it should not be a difficult matter to lead a card suitable to one's partner's hand, regardless at times of what his discard may have been, especially when the lead is up to an exposed hand." Aathoritlea Differ oa Discards. The discard from one's longest suit at an adverse trump declaration, from one's shortest or weakest suit at. a no trump, was, in effect, one of the generally accepted discards at whist, the rules In whist reading somewqat as follows: When trump strength is known to.be against you, discard from your longest suit; when trump strength on your side, or has not yet been declared, discard from your weakest suit. The principle governing the play In both games is the same. When trumps are strongly against you, you cannot expect to make the long cards of your suit, and, as a rule, you can better spare one or more cards of this suit then guards to a weaker one. When, however, trump strength is on your side, or when, as at a no-trump declaration at auction, all suits are equal, so far as trick-taking purposes are concerned, the cards of your long suit are by many considered too valu able to throw away, and they advocate rather the discard from the weakest suit. While on the subject of the discard it may be Interesting to note Just what various of the authorities do say on the subject. While, as Colonel Jones af firms, many of them treat of it briefly, others again discuss it at greater or less length, though not so exhaustively perhsps as was the case at whist. Milton C. Works latest book. "Auc tion Declarations," as the name Indi cates, deals exclusively with the dec larations. This book, therefore, has nothing to say concerning It, or, for that matter, any form of play. "Expert Auction," by K. V. Shepard, contains the following: "The combina tion discard is now used almost every where. It combines ability to call for a suit by means of a single unneces sarily high card, or by an echo, with ability to disapprove of a suit by means of Its lowest card. "Two cards of any denomination call for a suit If played in reverse order, or reject a suit If played in normal order. The six lowest cards discarded singly reject a suit, the seven highest cards discarded singly call for a suit. "The first discard made is usually the most Important to note. Late discards should not be considered, unless made very emphatic by an echo or by the unnecessary discard of an honor, since It often happens that late in a hand cards of moderate size must be dis carded from a suit not desired to pro tect another suit from attack. Gnardlng la Held Important. "If you note that your partner does not discard from a particular suit, you should try to guard the one from which he is discarding, and discard from the one he appears to be guarding. Al ways remember that a discard from great strength means only the loss of a single trick, but unguarding a weak suit, or failure to save one or two cards of your partner's strong suit, may mean the loss of several tricks. "If you have no suit which you desire- led. at least you probably have a suit in which you can save a trick or two if you discard wisely. As a gen eral thing, three-card suits suffer more from discards than either longer or shorter suits containing equally high cards. Two-card suits and four-card suits are next worse, and suffer about equally. Next come one-card suits and five-card suits, which also suffer about equally from discards. Six-card -suits suffer less damage than any previously mentioned; seven-card suits still less, and so on. "Considerable experience is required to tell even approximately, what can best be spared from some hands. It is folly to hoard up all the cards of a long suit without re-entry cards if your partner cannot put you in. Late in the band someone will probably be forced to lead the suit, but in the mean time all chance to stop another suit, or to help your partner establish his long suit, may have been wasted by discards from your weak suits. On. the other hand, if the chances to play. out a long suit are promising, discards had better be risked elsewhere. With ace and queen of a suit wherein you hold the "doubleton" king, showing In dummy on your right, and the declarer leading a long suit, it may be necessary to blank your king to save guards to another suit. If the ace of a suit of which you hold the king lies at your left with queen. Jack, ten at your right, you cannot well spare even one of several guards to your king." As will be noted, Mr. Johnson's sug gestion to unguard a king If it becomes necessary so to do in order to save guards in another suit, when ace, queen and others of this suit are in dummy's hand to your right, is In line with the method advocated by "Shepard" under the same conditions. Expert Advice Proves Polat. Charles Emmet Coffin, in his popular little work, "The Gist of Auction Bridge." one of the latest, if not the latest, work on auction, has the fol lowing to say on the subject of the dis card: "The discard is one of the most Im portant conventions In the game and the least understood by the average player. One rrequently hears the ques tion at the beginning of play: 'How do you discard? A good answer would be: "According to the accepted code.' "1. The discard of a six or lower card Is from.the weak suit. "2. The discard of a card higher than the six Is known as the encouraging discard,' and shows protection in that suit. "3. Discarding any card, and then a lower one, known as the "reverse dis card,' or echo, is a request for that suit to be led. "4. The discard after the first Is made to protect the hand as much as possible, and does not have the same meaning as the first. "5. Discard of the best card shows entire command of that suit. ". Discard of the second best shows that you hold no more of that suit. "7. Do not unguard an honor, or blank an ace, or discard a singleton early In the game, as you might pre vent a proper lead to partner. "Discarding requires good memory and Judgment. The cards in dummy s hand will often aid In Knowing wnai cards to hold or to throw away. "It is important to watch carefully all of partner's discards and get the Information he is Intending to give! you." As I have considerable still to say on the subject of the discard, I will reserve further discussion until another issue. In the meantime perhaps one or more other players may favor us I COLOR EFFECTS TOO OFTEN NEGLECTED BY HOUSEWIVES IN ARRANGEMENT OF NEW HOME Many Women Who Have Come to Point of Knowing Period Furniture Fail to Take Enough Interest in Selecting ... w i t- fi-"iA WWU AfivA HarmnnlniiB F!lpmPTlts. Wall Hangings ana ALMOST everyone recognizes and appreciates beauty in any single examDle of decoration. What Is not so general Is an appreciation of re lated decoration. Color and design in Its relation to each room of the house and to all of the rooms collectively is a study that is too often disastrously neglected. Manv women who have come to the point of knowing period furniture fail to take Interest enough in period de sign to select wall hangings, draperies, etc.. that in any way correspond with their furnishings. Others whose fur nishings are entirely informal lose mental sight of what is already in their HOMELIKE ITTEJfSILS OF ENGLISH COTTAGE TEA HOUR. SOME quaint, homelike Implements j of the English cottage tea hourj are pictured. Afternoon tea Is an j Important respast in England and a great deal of trouble is taken to have its equipment complete and perfect. One illustration shows two -very in teresting tea cosies; and a tea cosy, if you happen never to have seen such a thing, is a wadded jacket which is slipped over the teapot to keep- the tea, piping hot for a second cup., One of the pictured tea cosies is made of canton flannel buttonholed around the I Wear MADE MANY X fuss: i 1 tit---.- -y- Hi-: J Au 1 Royal Worcester Corset Company, Worcester, Mass. . with opinions on the subject. Indi- vidual opinions, from those capable of xrapenes in.. icdijuhu rooms in buying something new. and often because of this, by introducing an inharmonious element, mar a fairly good effect instead of improving it. Some factors figure noticeably in the capacity of "pulling things together"; "tying" is the technical word. This tying usually involves a repetition of color. One of the most useful qualities of the Oriental rug is that in repeating all of the other colors of the room it forms a base of unison. While tt is not necessary to have the walls papered or painted alike through-out-r-lndeed. it is distinctly agreeable to vary .the monotony, particularly in a series of bedrooms it is pleasing to have the groundwork the same, chang- edges in colored wool; the other is of linen and chints and is supposed to represent an old woman, her petticoat of linen, her bonnet and mantle of the chintz, while face and hands are rudely indicated on the linen with cotton thread machinery. The same picture shows a comfortable looking English teapot of glazed earthernware, a toast rack of painted wood and a decorative bell to summon the maid when more hot water is needed. Another picture shows various fire side implements; a toast fork, toast warmer,. hearth brush, candlestick and trivet for the simmering teapot. iPrf ffyiS -i ' H (Ma ul if"" Vi ; V $ V - W i? w-f rs Oil loll Mace BONTON FRONT LACE WITH THE NEW LJ'fL CLASP. WOMEN WEARING FRONT LACE COMPLAIN ABOUT the CLASP PINCHING. nil.iCT.iil.ssIr,S THIS can be entirely avoided by wearing a Bon Ton FRONT LACE corset with the O-I-C Clasp which does not pinch or break or squeak and always stays flat. Ask YOUR dealer to show you some of the Bon Ton FRONT LACE corsets having this very practical and new O-I-C Non-Pinching clasp. Prices $3.50, S5, $6.50, $8 and up. Makers oBon Ton Corsets. Royal New York Chicago giving them, are, at all times, welcome I and will receive due consideration. ing the colors of the overprinting at will. Choose one general tint and keep it with whatever number of variations you please. Say. for example, the ground color is fawn. This may be lightened to old ivory in dark rooms. Or if gray is chosen it may be light ened to pearl in dark rooms. In the first case the ceiling should be old ivory throughout; in the latter palest gray throughout. In a fawn scheme the living rooms, hall, and perhaps dining rooms may be covered alike. One bedroom may be in Chippendale flowered pattern on an ivory ground with old rose, or straw colored, or old blue taffeta curtains over glass curtains of ecru scrim. The next room may be in a stripe on an ivory ground, repeating the color chosen for the taffeta draperies, and the third may be plain old ivory with figured draperies on an ivory ground. Gray Scheme Admissible. In the gray scheme above the same order may be carried out. A touch of coral color would be lovely in a pale gray room and of turquoise in the next room, and these two combined with dull green on a light gray ground in draperies tor the third. Patterned papers are indispensable when walls are not in first-class con dition. They need not be assertive. Many of the self-colored papers printed in small allover patterns give a well blended background that saves old and slightlyi shabby but good furniture from being too clearly outlined against it. It may also be noted that such papers make as good backgrounds for pictures as plain walls do. That manufacturers are studying decorative relations is well instanced in the recent readjustment of scale. Furniture of large and clumsy scale, such as the old mission, is no longer approved. Even copies of Jacobean furniture have been reduced In size to make them appropriate to small room dwellings and to correspond with this movement. Renaissance and Jacobean wall coverings that were formerly large in design and rich in coloring are now being made lighter in tint to har monize with lighter woodwork and much smaller in pattern scale to bring them in proper relation with modern rooms. If a room is small it is usually best not to cut up the wall space into pan eling. Exception is pleaded for the over mantel, which may be made quite lovely by having a painting or good low toned lithograph paneled into it under a narrow molding. Note the ef fect of this treatment in the illustra tion. When the ceiling is low by all means avoid stripping the wall horizontally with dado frieze or paneled base. The sort of room that is distinctly improved by paneling is one that is too corsets CORSETS f i ... i Frdni ice Worcester Corsets, Adjusto Corsets San Francisco j This I should like it to be distinctly understood. long for its width. The space may with fine advantage be divided into upright panels, not necessarily of equal width. Indeed, the best effect is to be had by placing a large panel in the middle space with one or more panels at either side of it. Panels re ferred to here are not made of solid wood, but are mere outlines made of narrow . wood molding tacked on to form outlines after the wall has been canvased. The paint is then put on over the canvas molding and all. The .average dining room is being treated by the best decorators as a breakfast room. It has entirely lost Its somber aspect and is done in light bright tones. Figured papers are per missible. Scenic effects are in favor. This presupposes that pictures are hot to be used. Wall covering is, of course, a matter upon which there can be no set rules. It is much a question of personal preference. The general trend of good taste is to wards simple, unostentatious effects. Where furniture and walls are in good condition and well chosen plain light tinted neutral tones are best for the living room. Backgrounds are third in importance in decorative schemes. In considering relative decoration, the relation of first importance is that between occupants and the entire room. Second only to this is the importance of articles in the foreground. These also shoul'd have a scale of prominence. . The things that , will under no circumstances be hidden or covered are fixed points of interest. The floor covering, wall covering, win dow curtaining, and ceiling as back grounds final in character must recede to give them proper place, conceding them the foreground. Just as a good accompanist never drowns the voice of the singer, but almost imperceptibly follows rather than leads. Simple Rule Laid Down. There is a simple rule in regard to the relationship of colors. It is this: Any two colors, however violently they clash, can be made to harmonize by in terjecting a little of each one into the other. Suppose, for example, you have brown woodwork and you want light blue walls. 'After the blue is all mixed add a little brown just the color of the woodwork. The blue paint, calcimine, or whatever it is will still be blue, but it will have just the right tinge to make it go well with the brown. In other words, the two colors will have become related. This is an invaluable rule to remem ber in painting the outside of houses that have some prominent permanent color feature. If the house has a green roof, in. painting over the rest of the house a little of that same green color mixed into any color decided upon for the sides will enforce harmony. It is an easy matter for the veriest amateur to mix a little of the color of her woodwork with any tint she may admire and spread a wash of this mix ture on a bit of white cardboard. Hhis color card will be a sort of talisman to take with her in selecting the match ing up fabrics, papers, etc. MRS. J. S. I should make casement curtains for your windows and make them of soft casement cloth. Let them be on rods and rings that slide easily. The place for clothes hooks is in the clothes closet. A telephone desk and stool is not objectionable. It seems to me from your diagram that you have space enough in your hall to have a little closet built in. This would be the best thing for you to do. The wraps of guests are carried into the dressing room of the hostess if no other con venience Is provided for. The water of the Antarctic Ocean has been proved to be colder than that of the Arctic seas. FRECKLE-FACE Son and Wind Brine Out I'gly Spots. How to Remove Easily. Here's a chance, Miss Freckle-face, to try a remedy for freckles with the guarantee of a reliable dealer that it will not cost you a penny unless it re moves the freckles; while if it does glue you a clear complexion the expense is trifling. Simply get an ounce of othine dou ble strength from any" druggist and a few applications should show you how easy it is to rid yourself of the homely freckles and get a beautiful complex ion. Rarely is more than one ounce needed for the worst case. Be sure to ask the druggist for the double strength Othine as this strength is sold under guarantee of money back if it fails to remove' freckles. Adv.