THE SUXDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, APRIL 21, 1918.
PRETTY NECKWEAR ESSENTIAL IN BRINGING
COSTUME UP TO THE MOMENT OF SMARTNESS
No Spring Suit Is Quite All It Should Be Unless Accompanied by New Waistcoat Cuffs Held Equally as Impor
tant as Collars These Days by Fashionable and Correctly Dressed t omen.
flWk tS T -X -v-""4
' , .iy'i . : -"All
TIE point of supreme Interest on
which the tya focuwi In any
tprluB cooluotc la apt to b the
nrkwear of th.t costume. By tieck
rerv of course, one understands a
term mtanlnc not a collar particularly,
but a colUr-Jnd-Mo-forth. The collar
may extend Into a, waistcoat that
reaches quite to the hips, but It Is still
popularly known as "neckwear" at
least one finds It anions neckwear ex
hibits and sees It advertised as "new
Spring neckwear" In the newspapers.
t:uffs also are neckwear: so are
chemisettes. h;Of -sleeve, and even
whole blouses t minus sleeves), which
so by the name of cutmpes.
With all these fascinatinic and varied
accessories a very simple wardrobe may
be made to r3 fr several times as
elaborate as it Is. In fact, neckwear
la Its comprehensive classification, can
do more to brirnc a costume up to the
moment of smartness than any other
three accessories toKethrr.
No t-prlnr suit is quite all that It
should be unless It is accompanied by
one of the new waistcoats. The waist
coat may not show at all until the
coat Is unfastened, but if the splc and
pan new waistcoat la there the coat
will certainly be unfastened and
thrown hack sooner or later, whn op
portunity permits. other coats are
built especially to reveal waistcoats
and the original raison d'etre of the
waistcoat, you know, was to fill the
sap where coat fronts were skimped
COLOVEU JOXKS- Interesting article
on the discard, w htcli appeared in
this column of last Sunday s '
paper, bas elicited the following, also
on the discard, from r- . . Johnson,
another of our well-known local play
ers.
Mr. Johrwon was one of the pro
moters and "crack players" of the Port
land Whist flub, the memory of which
still lingers pleasantly in the minds of
many of our players. Mr. Johnson
brings to bear. In auction the same
adaptability and skill which marked his
career as a whist player and made him
then, as now. a partner to be sought
and a foe man calling for one's very
best and finest-cut steel.
The announcement will be received
with Interest that Mr. Johnson is soon
to furnish us with a write-up of the
old whist club, containing, among other
things, a brief reference to various of
Its members, the most of whom are
bow widely scattered, not a few hav
ing crorsed the great divide.
tils paer follows:
"An interesting discussion is going
" ll- l: ' " -1 " " " "
. - .r-- , r .... r; .
for conservation of worsted fabrics.
But the smartest effect Is obtained
when a coat fastening In the ordinary
ainitle or double-breasted manner is
unbuttoned and pushed back to show
the waistcoat, the loose belt buttoned
across the waistcoat holding- the lines
of the coat In to the figure, trimly, for
an unbuttoned Jacket that flies about
and salts, unbelted, from the shoulders
has a slovenly suggestion that is never
quite smart.
A very good-looking waistcoat Is of
white pique of rather wide welt, com
bined with the sheerest of white
organdy. The organdy is laid in Inch
tucks across the front, and a curving
panel that runs around the lower edge
of the waistcoat is of pique. Big pearl
buttons close the pique fronts, and the
long, narrow collar is of pique. An
other smart waistcoat Is of blue and
whits nlald cotton cheviot with collar
and facings of white pique. This waist
coat fastens In double-oreasieo. siyie,
and one front slopes obliquely from the
right side of the throat to a point Just
above the left side or tne waisiune.
a facing of white pique turning back
in a long, narrow lapei along mo
oblique line. The other front rises
smoothly to the throat, and there Is
no neck opening, a tall, close stock of
white pique encircling the throat. There
Is a.declded smartness about this high
collared waistcoat, under a belted
Jacket of dark blue serge or heather
mixture worsted.
on at the present time among some of
our local players with regard to the
discard. At old-time whist, when qual
ities Ot nanos wer uiwm - J
vealed than In modern auction bridge.
the question of the discard was at
tended with rather more perplexity
than Is the case in auction. In auction
each player practically, or nearly so,
places his hand face upward on the
table. The dealer usually begins by
telling everybody of his best suit; the
next one his. and so on. As the bid
ding proceeds, the value of each hand
ought to be fairly well visualized,
mentally, by the alert player, and the
exposure of dummy's hand should
further aid him in confirming, or, if
necessary, adjusting his mental ar
rangement of the cards in the different
hands.
Risky laaevatlea Costly.
"This, of course. Is Irrespective of
the discard, but as It is more or less
correlated with it, the player who is
called upon to lead to his" partner's
discard might well benefit by bearing
in mind the mental picture so formed.
"I make no pretentions to mentorshlp
In auction bridge, and any opinions
herein advanced should be accepted
merely as the crude offerings of a
player who Is fond of the game, and,
let me confess, fond also of risky inno
vations now and again, not to be found
in the usually accepted book rules.
"On an adversary's trump declara
tion, I favor a discard from one's long
est or strongest suit: on a no-trump
call, from one's shortest or weakest.
Of course in either case one would not
discard from queen twice guarded if
it could possibly be avoided. However,
with ace. queen and one or more other
cards of a suit in dummy's hand to my
right, and one or two sure tricks in
my own hand in an established suit.
I would risk baring my king in dum
my's suit rather than discard a win
ning card or two, depending upon a
finesse In the dummy hand for an en
try. This, preferably, when playing
against an experienced adversary. With
others, or with timid players, it is
safer to take no chances.
"To revert to my opening statement:
When the strength of the different
hands Is so well exploited to begin
with, as It generally is in auction, it
should not be a difficult matter to
lead a card suitable to one's partner's
hand, regardless at times of what his
discard may have been, especially when
the lead is up to an exposed hand."
Aathoritlea Differ oa Discards.
The discard from one's longest suit
at an adverse trump declaration, from
one's shortest or weakest suit at. a
no trump, was, in effect, one of the
generally accepted discards at whist,
the rules In whist reading somewqat
as follows: When trump strength is
known to.be against you, discard from
your longest suit; when trump strength
on your side, or has not yet been
declared, discard from your weakest
suit. The principle governing the play
In both games is the same. When
trumps are strongly against you, you
cannot expect to make the long cards
of your suit, and, as a rule, you can
better spare one or more cards of this
suit then guards to a weaker one.
When, however, trump strength is on
your side, or when, as at a no-trump
declaration at auction, all suits are
equal, so far as trick-taking purposes
are concerned, the cards of your long
suit are by many considered too valu
able to throw away, and they advocate
rather the discard from the weakest
suit.
While on the subject of the discard
it may be Interesting to note Just what
various of the authorities do say on the
subject. While, as Colonel Jones af
firms, many of them treat of it briefly,
others again discuss it at greater or
less length, though not so exhaustively
perhsps as was the case at whist.
Milton C. Works latest book. "Auc
tion Declarations," as the name Indi
cates, deals exclusively with the dec
larations. This book, therefore, has
nothing to say concerning It, or, for
that matter, any form of play.
"Expert Auction," by K. V. Shepard,
contains the following: "The combina
tion discard is now used almost every
where. It combines ability to call for
a suit by means of a single unneces
sarily high card, or by an echo, with
ability to disapprove of a suit by means
of Its lowest card.
"Two cards of any denomination call
for a suit If played in reverse order, or
reject a suit If played in normal order.
The six lowest cards discarded singly
reject a suit, the seven highest cards
discarded singly call for a suit.
"The first discard made is usually the
most Important to note. Late discards
should not be considered, unless made
very emphatic by an echo or by the
unnecessary discard of an honor, since
It often happens that late in a hand
cards of moderate size must be dis
carded from a suit not desired to pro
tect another suit from attack.
Gnardlng la Held Important.
"If you note that your partner does
not discard from a particular suit, you
should try to guard the one from which
he is discarding, and discard from the
one he appears to be guarding. Al
ways remember that a discard from
great strength means only the loss of
a single trick, but unguarding a weak
suit, or failure to save one or two
cards of your partner's strong suit,
may mean the loss of several tricks.
"If you have no suit which you desire-
led. at least you probably have a
suit in which you can save a trick or
two if you discard wisely. As a gen
eral thing, three-card suits suffer more
from discards than either longer or
shorter suits containing equally high
cards. Two-card suits and four-card
suits are next worse, and suffer about
equally. Next come one-card suits and
five-card suits, which also suffer about
equally from discards. Six-card -suits
suffer less damage than any previously
mentioned; seven-card suits still less,
and so on.
"Considerable experience is required
to tell even approximately, what can
best be spared from some hands. It
is folly to hoard up all the cards of
a long suit without re-entry cards if
your partner cannot put you in. Late
in the band someone will probably be
forced to lead the suit, but in the mean
time all chance to stop another suit,
or to help your partner establish his
long suit, may have been wasted by
discards from your weak suits. On. the
other hand, if the chances to play. out
a long suit are promising, discards had
better be risked elsewhere. With ace
and queen of a suit wherein you hold
the "doubleton" king, showing In dummy
on your right, and the declarer leading
a long suit, it may be necessary to
blank your king to save guards to
another suit. If the ace of a suit of
which you hold the king lies at your
left with queen. Jack, ten at your right,
you cannot well spare even one of
several guards to your king."
As will be noted, Mr. Johnson's sug
gestion to unguard a king If it becomes
necessary so to do in order to save
guards in another suit, when ace, queen
and others of this suit are in dummy's
hand to your right, is In line with the
method advocated by "Shepard" under
the same conditions.
Expert Advice Proves Polat.
Charles Emmet Coffin, in his popular
little work, "The Gist of Auction
Bridge." one of the latest, if not the
latest, work on auction, has the fol
lowing to say on the subject of the dis
card: "The discard is one of the most Im
portant conventions In the game and
the least understood by the average
player. One rrequently hears the ques
tion at the beginning of play: 'How
do you discard? A good answer would
be: "According to the accepted code.'
"1. The discard of a six or lower
card Is from.the weak suit.
"2. The discard of a card higher than
the six Is known as the encouraging
discard,' and shows protection in that
suit.
"3. Discarding any card, and then a
lower one, known as the "reverse dis
card,' or echo, is a request for that
suit to be led.
"4. The discard after the first Is
made to protect the hand as much as
possible, and does not have the same
meaning as the first.
"5. Discard of the best card shows
entire command of that suit.
". Discard of the second best shows
that you hold no more of that suit.
"7. Do not unguard an honor, or
blank an ace, or discard a singleton
early In the game, as you might pre
vent a proper lead to partner.
"Discarding requires good memory
and Judgment. The cards in dummy s
hand will often aid In Knowing wnai
cards to hold or to throw away.
"It is important to watch carefully
all of partner's discards and get the
Information he is Intending to give!
you."
As I have considerable still to say
on the subject of the discard, I will
reserve further discussion until another
issue. In the meantime perhaps one
or more other players may favor us I
COLOR EFFECTS TOO OFTEN NEGLECTED BY
HOUSEWIVES IN ARRANGEMENT OF NEW HOME
Many Women Who Have Come to Point of Knowing Period Furniture Fail to Take Enough Interest in Selecting
... w i t- fi-"iA WWU AfivA HarmnnlniiB F!lpmPTlts.
Wall Hangings ana
ALMOST everyone recognizes and
appreciates beauty in any single
examDle of decoration. What Is
not so general Is an appreciation of re
lated decoration. Color and design in
Its relation to each room of the house
and to all of the rooms collectively is
a study that is too often disastrously
neglected.
Manv women who have come to the
point of knowing period furniture fail
to take Interest enough in period de
sign to select wall hangings, draperies,
etc.. that in any way correspond with
their furnishings. Others whose fur
nishings are entirely informal lose
mental sight of what is already in their
HOMELIKE ITTEJfSILS OF ENGLISH COTTAGE TEA HOUR.
SOME quaint, homelike Implements j
of the English cottage tea hourj
are pictured. Afternoon tea Is an j
Important respast in England and a
great deal of trouble is taken to have
its equipment complete and perfect.
One illustration shows two -very in
teresting tea cosies; and a tea cosy, if
you happen never to have seen such a
thing, is a wadded jacket which is
slipped over the teapot to keep- the
tea, piping hot for a second cup., One
of the pictured tea cosies is made of
canton flannel buttonholed around the
I Wear
MADE
MANY
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Hi-: J Au
1 Royal Worcester Corset Company,
Worcester, Mass. .
with opinions on the subject. Indi-
vidual opinions, from those capable of
xrapenes in.. icdijuhu
rooms in buying something new. and
often because of this, by introducing
an inharmonious element, mar a fairly
good effect instead of improving it.
Some factors figure noticeably in the
capacity of "pulling things together";
"tying" is the technical word. This
tying usually involves a repetition of
color. One of the most useful qualities
of the Oriental rug is that in repeating
all of the other colors of the room it
forms a base of unison.
While tt is not necessary to have the
walls papered or painted alike through-out-r-lndeed.
it is distinctly agreeable
to vary .the monotony, particularly in
a series of bedrooms it is pleasing to
have the groundwork the same, chang-
edges in colored wool; the other is of
linen and chints and is supposed to
represent an old woman, her petticoat
of linen, her bonnet and mantle of the
chintz, while face and hands are rudely
indicated on the linen with cotton
thread machinery. The same picture
shows a comfortable looking English
teapot of glazed earthernware, a toast
rack of painted wood and a decorative
bell to summon the maid when more
hot water is needed.
Another picture shows various fire
side implements; a toast fork, toast
warmer,. hearth brush, candlestick and
trivet for the simmering teapot.
iPrf ffyiS -i ' H (Ma ul
if"" Vi ; V
$ V -
W i? w-f rs
Oil loll Mace
BONTON FRONT LACE
WITH THE NEW LJ'fL CLASP.
WOMEN WEARING FRONT LACE
COMPLAIN ABOUT the CLASP PINCHING.
nil.iCT.iil.ssIr,S
THIS can be entirely avoided by
wearing a Bon Ton FRONT
LACE corset with the O-I-C Clasp
which does not pinch or break or
squeak and always stays flat.
Ask YOUR dealer to show you some
of the Bon Ton FRONT LACE
corsets having this very practical and
new O-I-C Non-Pinching clasp.
Prices $3.50, S5, $6.50, $8 and up.
Makers oBon Ton Corsets. Royal
New York Chicago
giving them, are, at all times, welcome
I and will receive due consideration.
ing the colors of the overprinting at
will.
Choose one general tint and keep it
with whatever number of variations
you please. Say. for example, the
ground color is fawn. This may be
lightened to old ivory in dark rooms.
Or if gray is chosen it may be light
ened to pearl in dark rooms. In the
first case the ceiling should be old
ivory throughout; in the latter palest
gray throughout.
In a fawn scheme the living rooms,
hall, and perhaps dining rooms may
be covered alike. One bedroom may be
in Chippendale flowered pattern on an
ivory ground with old rose, or straw
colored, or old blue taffeta curtains
over glass curtains of ecru scrim. The
next room may be in a stripe on an
ivory ground, repeating the color
chosen for the taffeta draperies, and
the third may be plain old ivory with
figured draperies on an ivory ground.
Gray Scheme Admissible.
In the gray scheme above the same
order may be carried out. A touch of
coral color would be lovely in a pale
gray room and of turquoise in the
next room, and these two combined
with dull green on a light gray ground
in draperies tor the third.
Patterned papers are indispensable
when walls are not in first-class con
dition. They need not be assertive.
Many of the self-colored papers printed
in small allover patterns give a well
blended background that saves old and
slightlyi shabby but good furniture
from being too clearly outlined against
it. It may also be noted that such
papers make as good backgrounds for
pictures as plain walls do.
That manufacturers are studying
decorative relations is well instanced
in the recent readjustment of scale.
Furniture of large and clumsy scale,
such as the old mission, is no longer
approved. Even copies of Jacobean
furniture have been reduced In size to
make them appropriate to small room
dwellings and to correspond with this
movement. Renaissance and Jacobean
wall coverings that were formerly
large in design and rich in coloring are
now being made lighter in tint to har
monize with lighter woodwork and
much smaller in pattern scale to bring
them in proper relation with modern
rooms.
If a room is small it is usually best
not to cut up the wall space into pan
eling. Exception is pleaded for the
over mantel, which may be made quite
lovely by having a painting or good
low toned lithograph paneled into it
under a narrow molding. Note the ef
fect of this treatment in the illustra
tion. When the ceiling is low by all means
avoid stripping the wall horizontally
with dado frieze or paneled base.
The sort of room that is distinctly
improved by paneling is one that is too
corsets
CORSETS
f
i ... i
Frdni
ice
Worcester Corsets, Adjusto Corsets
San Francisco j
This I should like it to be distinctly
understood.
long for its width. The space may
with fine advantage be divided into
upright panels, not necessarily of
equal width. Indeed, the best effect
is to be had by placing a large panel
in the middle space with one or more
panels at either side of it. Panels re
ferred to here are not made of solid
wood, but are mere outlines made of
narrow . wood molding tacked on to
form outlines after the wall has been
canvased. The paint is then put on
over the canvas molding and all.
The .average dining room is being
treated by the best decorators as a
breakfast room. It has entirely lost
Its somber aspect and is done in light
bright tones. Figured papers are per
missible. Scenic effects are in favor.
This presupposes that pictures are hot
to be used. Wall covering is, of course,
a matter upon which there can be no
set rules. It is much a question of
personal preference.
The general trend of good taste is to
wards simple, unostentatious effects.
Where furniture and walls are in good
condition and well chosen plain light
tinted neutral tones are best for the
living room.
Backgrounds are third in importance
in decorative schemes. In considering
relative decoration, the relation of first
importance is that between occupants
and the entire room. Second only to
this is the importance of articles in the
foreground. These also shoul'd have a
scale of prominence. . The things that ,
will under no circumstances be hidden
or covered are fixed points of interest.
The floor covering, wall covering, win
dow curtaining, and ceiling as back
grounds final in character must recede
to give them proper place, conceding
them the foreground. Just as a good
accompanist never drowns the voice of
the singer, but almost imperceptibly
follows rather than leads.
Simple Rule Laid Down.
There is a simple rule in regard to
the relationship of colors. It is this:
Any two colors, however violently they
clash, can be made to harmonize by in
terjecting a little of each one into the
other. Suppose, for example, you have
brown woodwork and you want light
blue walls. 'After the blue is all mixed
add a little brown just the color of the
woodwork. The blue paint, calcimine,
or whatever it is will still be blue, but
it will have just the right tinge to
make it go well with the brown. In
other words, the two colors will have
become related.
This is an invaluable rule to remem
ber in painting the outside of houses
that have some prominent permanent
color feature. If the house has a green
roof, in. painting over the rest of the
house a little of that same green color
mixed into any color decided upon for
the sides will enforce harmony.
It is an easy matter for the veriest
amateur to mix a little of the color of
her woodwork with any tint she may
admire and spread a wash of this mix
ture on a bit of white cardboard. Hhis
color card will be a sort of talisman to
take with her in selecting the match
ing up fabrics, papers, etc.
MRS. J. S. I should make casement
curtains for your windows and make
them of soft casement cloth. Let them
be on rods and rings that slide easily.
The place for clothes hooks is in the
clothes closet. A telephone desk and
stool is not objectionable. It seems to
me from your diagram that you have
space enough in your hall to have a
little closet built in. This would be the
best thing for you to do. The wraps
of guests are carried into the dressing
room of the hostess if no other con
venience Is provided for.
The water of the Antarctic Ocean has
been proved to be colder than that of
the Arctic seas.
FRECKLE-FACE
Son and Wind Brine Out I'gly Spots.
How to Remove Easily.
Here's a chance, Miss Freckle-face, to
try a remedy for freckles with the
guarantee of a reliable dealer that it
will not cost you a penny unless it re
moves the freckles; while if it does glue
you a clear complexion the expense is
trifling.
Simply get an ounce of othine dou
ble strength from any" druggist and a
few applications should show you how
easy it is to rid yourself of the homely
freckles and get a beautiful complex
ion. Rarely is more than one ounce
needed for the worst case.
Be sure to ask the druggist for the
double strength Othine as this strength
is sold under guarantee of money back
if it fails to remove' freckles. Adv.