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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Nov. 12, 1916)
TOE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, XOVEMRER 12, 1916.
DANCING FROCK OF GREEN SATIN-STRIPED SATIN
POPULAR FOR MAIDS IN CHRISTMAS HOLIDAYS
Frock of Soft Soiree Silk and Chiffon in New Raspberry Pink Shade, With Just a Touch of Dull Gold Embroidery
on Bodice Front and Apron, Is Special Occasion Dress for Young Girl Usually Garbed in Dark Serge.
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EVENT the little maid not yet "out"
must have her delectable dancing1
Irock for Christmas week parties
and dancing class affairs while the
undergrads are home for the holidays.
Youth and springtime pereonified are
in this dancing: frock of palest green
eatin-striped taffeta with a cluster of
apple blossoms at the girdle and stray
blossoms alighted, here and there on
the upstanding frill of the gathered
Pale green slippers and silk stockings
to match the frock, of course, and not
a single bit of jewelry except the
watch bracelet, which, one understands,
has been "wished on" and may not be
removed even for a dance.
. A special occasion frock for the
young girl who is usually garbed in
the dark serge of school days is of soft
soiree silk and chiffon "and in a new
raspberry shade. There is just a touch
of dull and gold thread embroidery
on bodice front and apron. Through
the chiffon bodice and shirred band on
the .tunic is the gleam of white satin
which forms the foundation frock. Nar
row bands of fur outline the shirred
hand and define a rounded neck omen
ing, the low fur collar supporting a
cape collar of the soiree silk which
hangs at the back. ,
There is something delightfully
quaint about the fur-edred apron of
Georgette crepe which falls over a
gathered skirt of satin. The round
necked bodice is of eat in also a -dainty
flesh-pink tone, with the fur otter
around the decoliotage and arm open
ings. Underneath is a guipe of flesh
pink Georgette supporting the puffed
sleeves.'. Pink stockings, and glazed
kid danckij slippers below the simply
cut, gathered skirt, which ie, of course,
hemmed by hand in correct fashion,
and with silk thread exactly matching
7ven Candy Must Blend in
Color on Best Tables.
II luck and Yellow la Latent 'Combi
nation for Formal Dinner AVlth
Decorations Carefully Placed.
A LITTLE, thing like candy of the
wrong color can spil a beautifully
set table, no matter how rich the silver
or how heavy the snowy linen. There
is a great deal of color value, too. In
rightly selected bonbons, value that
the expert hostess well appreciates.
A new color scheme for the formal
dinner is black and yellow, and a most
distinguished dinner, given for a debu
tante of the season last week, showed
this decoration. The yellow candles
had shades of striped black and yel
' low silk and the candlesticks were of
black glazed earthenware. A vase of
the same pottery, filled with yellow
roses formed the centerpiece.
Small yellow china dishes at each
plate held salted almonds, and in sev
eral tall comports of the black glazed
earthenware were chocolate-coated and
pale-yellow bonbons, not piled helter
skelter, formally arranged in pyramid
fashion, a row of chocolate, a row of
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yellow, and so on to the top. The cameo medallions hand - painted in
I place cards of yellow cardboard had black and white at one corner.
BY ANNIE BLANCHE SHELBY.
ONFORMABLY to a number of re- j
I quests, starting today I will for
a time devote a portion of my
weekly talk to a brief form of Instruc
tion for the beginner at auction. While
In a sense it may seem that I have
been putting "the cart before the
horse," my readers will'. I know, par
don the digression for the sake of the
greatest good to the greatest number,
y Auction In Brief.
Auction is a partnership game played
by four persons, two playing against
Players cut for partnefs.' Those cut
ting the two higher cards play agaisnt
those cutting the two lower. When two
or more cards of equal value are cut,
the suits they stand for determine
which is the higher or the highest card.
A club card would rank as the highest,
the diamond next, then the heart; the
spade as the lowest. In cutting the ace
ranks as the lowest card. The player
cutting the lowest card has the deal.
The entire pack of cards is used. The
cards are dealt, one at a time, from left
to right. Each player receives 13
cards. The deal passes in regular or
der to, the left. Prior to dealing the
cards must be cut by the player at the
dealer's right. In cutting at least four
cards must be left in each packet.
To avoid confusion as 'to whose turn
it is to deal, as well as for the sake
of convenience, two packs of cards
are used. . The pack not. in play Is
called the "still pack." It is shuffled
by the dealer's partner .and placed to
tne left of tne player next to deal.
The trump suit, or no trump, as the
case may be, is determined by bidding.
All players have the right to bid. The
dealer has the first right, then the
player to his left, next bis partner, and
lastly the player to his right. All play
era must bid, double, or redouble or
If all four players pass, the hands
are thrown up and the deal passes to
the player next in turn to deal.
The player who bids the greatest
number of tricks or an equal number
of a higher trick valuation becomes
known as "the declarer," and plays his
own and his partner's hands. The only
exception to this is when the two part
ners bid for the same thing. Then the
player who first made the bid, not the
one calling the greater number o
tricks in it, plays the two hands.
In bidding, one names not only "no
trump," or a certain suit, but a defi
nite number of tricks, as "one no
trump," "two spades," etc
A player may bid any number of
times, naming a greater number of
tricks In .the bid originally made or
changing to another bearing in mind
that bids must be on a constantly in-,
creasing ratio so long as he is over
bid or there has been e double or re
double. Save under these conditions
no player can raise his first or original
When three players in their regular
order "pass," the bidding ceases. The
highest bid holds good and the play
The. player to the left of the declarer
leads to the first trick. TUen the part
ner -of the declarer, who becomes
known as "dummy," places his cards,
face upward, upon the table and the
declarer pltrys .the hand in connection
with his own. Dummy has nothing
whatever to say in regard to the play.
Bids have different numerical values
according to the particular suit named.
The highest is the no-trump bid. next
spades, then hearts, then diamonds,
and, lastly, clubs.
The value of the no-trump bid is 10,
spades 9, hearts 8, diamonds 7, clubs 6.
For the sake of convenience the suits
are spoken of as "major" and "minor."
Spades and hearts are major, diamonds
and clubs minor.
The score sheet is divided into two
portions by a horizontal line. Below
the line are recorded trick points made
by the declarer when he fulfills his
contract that is, takes as many tricks
as he has named in his bid.
Above the line are recorded points
for honors, slam and penalties; also
the rubber bonus.
Game consists of 30 points, obtained
by trick scores alone. As Was been
explained, points toward game can only
be made by the declarer, and then only
when he makes good his contract.
The "xubber" is the best of three
games. If a side wins two games in
succession, the rubber is decided and
the third is not played. The rubber
bonus is 250 points. This is recorded
in the honor score.
Tricks have no counting value until
after six have been taken. "Six tricks
are known as "the book." Every trick
taken over and above the book counts
six. seven, eight, nine or. ten points,
according to what has been bid. when
the declarant makes good. For in
stance, if he has bid "three hearts," he
must take that number of tricks over
the book (nine, in all) in order to score.
If he takes less than that number, he
gets no trick score, even though he
make have taken the odd trick or
tricks. If he takes more than the
number he has bid he receives the
value of each over-trick.
The odd trick is the trick taken over
and above the six tricks which con
stitute the' book.
When the declarer falls to take the
number of tricks he contracts to take
the' adversaries score F0 points per
trick wherein he falls. This regardless
of the value of the bid; that is, whether
it be a no trump, a spade, heart, 'dia
mond or club. At a double the ad
versaries score 100 points for each
missing trick; at a redouble, 200.
These are known as "penalty points"
and are scored in the adversaries' honor
score, or above the line.
The adversaries never score in the
trick score, even though they win the
odd trick or tricks.
When the declarer makes good his
ontract, at a double, he scores dou
bled value of each trick in the trick
score. He also scores In the honor
score SO points for making at a double,
and 50 points also in the honor score
for each trick he may take in excess
of the number bid.
When the declarer makes good at
redouble he scores the redoubled
value of each trick in the trick score.
00 .in the honor score for making
good at a redouble and 100 also in
the honor score for each trick taken
n excess of the number bid.
These also are known as penalty
One double and one redouble only
re allowed. A double may be declared
only over an adversary's declaration; a
redouble only over an adversary's dou-
A double is not a bid in the sense
that it increases the value of the bid
made (save only when the results are
recorded), but it opens the way for
The ho'nors at a no-trump declaration
are the four aces; at trump, the five
highest cards of the suit ace, king.
ueen, jack and ten. The side holding
the majority of honors receives the
honor score. At a trump there is al
ways an honor score; at no trump it
often happens that each side holds
wo aces, so there is no honor score,
n other words, "aces are easy."
If four aces are held in one hand.
the honor score for the side is 100; .if
our aces, divided, are held by one side.
he honor score is 40; if three aces are
held by one side, the honor score is 30.
At a trump three honors, often spoken
f as "simple honors," score the value
of two tricks of the suit declared; four
honors, the value of four tricks; flvj
honors, the value of five tricks. Four
honors if held in one hand score the
value of eight tricks; four in one hand.
he fifth in the partner's, the value of
nine tricks; five honors in one hand, the
value of 10 tricks. To illustrate: Three
honors at a spade trump would equal
8, four would equal 36. five 45; four
honors in one hand would score 7
four in one hand, the tifth in the part
ner's. 81; five in one hand, 90.
"Slam" is a term used to indicate that
one sid has won the-cntire 13 tricks.
It entitles such players to 100 points
in the honor score.
"Little slam" Is a term to indicate
that one side has won 12 of the 13
tricks. The players so winning receive
60 points in the honor score.
To determine results at tlTe end of
the rubber, the two scores of each side,
that is. the score above and "the score
below the line,, are added separately,
and the smaller sum subtracted from
the larger. The difference shows the
number of points the winning side is
ahead. It will happen not Infrequently
that one side has won the rubber bonus.
yet the opponents having the larger
score are in reality tne winners of the
"Love score" is a term used when
side has no score: "love all" when
neither side has a score.
Penalties for revokes, leading out of
turn, exposed cards, etc., must be re
ferred to under "The Laws of Auction,"
space not admitting of the requisite ex
Now that the glorious Fall Weather
has given way to Autumnal winds and
weeping skies and that the one topic
which has enlisted the attention for
weeks, the election, is about at an end.
the various card clubs of the city, social
and otherwise, are rapidly resuming
their regular meetings. A great re-
viva of Interest is being manifested
and the desire to study and thus gain
tangible results from the meetings is
very apparent. It is safe to predict
that by the end of the f eason Portland
may Boast or a consiaeraDie larger
number of sound, educated players than
The social round In the respect of
cards was set in motion a few after
noons ago when Mrs. and Miss Hirnch.
vapll known, both for "heir card ability
and gracious hospitality, were hostesses
at a large "bridge at their spacious
home on St. Clair street. Many -of the
best women players of the city were
bidden and the affair was highly en
joyable. both from a social and an ar
A large "bridge." in which a number
of players participate was also given
on Tuesday afternoon last at the home
of Mrs. Cora Puffer. 613 Third street.
SOCIETY, SPORTS, LITERATURE AND DRESS ARE
MEANS OF BRINGING WOMEN INTO LIMELIGHT
Niece of Ambassador to Japan, Indianapolis 13-Year-Old Girl Swimming Champion, "Diamond Queen of Argen
tina," Mary Roberts Kinehart and Mrs. Earl Carroll, Skyscaper Bride, Figure in News.
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LAURA uURTS is the -niece or
George W. Guthrie, the Ambas
sador to Japan, and a well-known
society girl of Pittsburg. She appeared
in some tableaux at Bar Harbor for
One of the best-known of the titled
American women In London arrived in
New York recently, accompanied by her
husband. She is Lady Fermor-Hesketh
and she was Florence Sharon, of Cali
fornia, when she married in 18S0. Her
husband w very wealthy, and she
brought him a large fortune.
Little Thelma Darby,, of rndianapolls,
only 13 years old. astonished the sport
ing world by winning the 880-yard
championship swim for women at St.
I.ouis. and making it in record time.
Her time was 16 minutes 8 seconds.
Thelma's mother i very proud of her.
"She is just a happy-go-lucky young
ster," she jffiid. "and never worries or
seems to give her swimming a thought.
The closer the race the better she likes
It. She still plays with dolls and dishes
and her kitten as though she were
eight or nine. She began going in the
water when she was six."
Mrs. Leon Cohen, known as "The Dia
mond Queen of the Argentine." may
have gone to Europe with the notion
that all the dressmnkene of Paris were
at the front. But she very soon found
that there were plenty of good gowns
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to be had at the old spots, and she
dazzled the homecomers on the Dutch
ship witn her wardrobe as much as
with her jewels. Mr. Cohen i in New
York, on her way to Buenos Ayres. Her
husband is a wealthy merchant of that
Mary Roberts Rinehart, the well
known author, is one of several women
writers who have visited the war zone
for tlie purpose of learning at first
hand and writing about the great war.
Mrs. Earl Carroll i spending her
honeymoon with her husband on the
roof, of a 19-story skyscraper In New
York. Both are musicians. Mr. Car
roll built a bungalow way up in the
air, whence a grand view of the Jersey
shore is obtainable. There is plenty of
fresh air and sunshine, too. And next
season Mrs. Carroll will have a garden
around her odd home.
Receptacle for Best .' Corset
Must Be Attractive.
Dainty Womaa Waatn Dainty N'est
for Coatly Article of Wardrobe.
Magistrate (to Mr. Simple, who has
been summoned for creating a disturb
ance and giving false alarms) Well
Guilty or not guilty?
Mr. Simple Uullty, sir; but it was
like this, sir: Op my way home I found
a policeman's whistle My son being
ill. I let him play with it. and he ac
cidentally swallowed It. and now he's
got whooping cough, and every time he
coughs I get tho house surrounded by
policemen. Chicago Journal.
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wide bowl of tiny forget-me-nots. The
wedding cake may be in the center of
Some of the bride's girl friends may
be asked to help serve. Place small
dishes of nuts, olives and candies on
the table. If a hot dish is to be served.
It le a good plan to have it In a chafing-dish
at one end of the table. The
sandwiches and cakes should be placed
on large plates on the sideboard. The
Ices may be served from the kitchen
or from the other end of Mhe table by
one of the girls.
A very pretty confection Is creamed
strawberrirn. These are made by cov
ering perfec berries with pink fondant.
A pretury arranged lunrneon naa ior
the centerpiece low plaque of violets.
and at each cover was a bouquet ot
violets. Tlie ice cream was vanilla.
served In sherbet glasses, with a row
of candled violets round the, edge and
spoonful of violet sirup poured over
it. The rakes were Iced with white, and
Candled violet with citron leaves
topped each one.
During dessert the hostess presentea
parcel to the guest of honor, wrapped
in violet tissue paper. Inside were sev
eral sets of bureau drawer pads, made
of lavender and white sllkaleen. with
violets; a dozen bags made of lavender
ribbon filled with lavender: some
square sachets made of ribbon " five
inches wirte. three of them tied to
gether, with a few artificial violets
tucked Into the bows, and some tiny
heart-shaped ones with ribbons to fast
en them to coat bankers. The girls had
got together one afternoon and made
theie. and It cost no more t.ian I. cents.
Corset Bags for Cbrlataaaa Gifts.
mHERE is nothing that gives the
JL dainty woman more satisfaction
than an attractive receptacle for her
"best corset." The corset Is such a
costly item of the wardrobe nowadays
that it deserves a dainty nest of its
own. to keep It speckless and separate
from other belongings.
Some of these cases are of hand
painted ribbon. 'The one pictured is of
palest yellow linen, hand-embroidered
with daisies in white and yellow, the
long, narrow bag drawn up on pale
Buffet Style Proposed for
Simple Wedding Breakfast.
THE easiest way to eerve a wedding
breakfast, unless the house is very
large or there are very few guests, is
buffet style. In the center of the table
there was be a silver basket of bride
rosea and maidenhair ferns, . or a low,
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then traveled slowly, hesitatingly down
the shaggy neck.
"Iiowker gave a quick spring and
landed on Antony's knees, sniffing
eagerly at his vest. Thrn. with dis
concerting suddenness he lifted his pert
little head and caught Antony uinaVr
the fat chin with his cold, bewhis
kered nose. Antony drew back his
head with a grunt that was almost a
chuckle, and liuwker boldly tood up
with his paws on Antony's shoulder
and sniffed at his enr."
Dog Knows How to Make
X N the October Woman's Home Com-
JL panion there is a story about a dog
who made friends with a stranger. The
writer describes the incident in this
"Then, his native curiosity getting
the better of him. he stood up and
cautiously approached. The man did
nothing except emit noises. Bowker
came closer and sniffed tentatively at
his trouser legs. He detected some
thing of absorbing interest there. A
man who smells of dog is to be neither
feared nor hated.
"Bowker lifted his nose and sniffed
higher. Then, very gently, he raised
himself on his hind legs and placed
his forepaws on Antony's knee, look
ing up inqufrlngly into the blind eyes.
"The rumbling died out in Antony's
throat. Slowly he raised a groping
hand and rested it for a moment on
the dog's paws. A little moist tongue
came out and touched it. Antony's
hand sought the hard little head and
11 X V I s s
Bathe with Caticura Soap and hot water
to free the pores of impurities and follow
with gentle application of Cuticura Oint
ment to soqihe and heal. Absolutely
nothing' better, purer or sweeter for all
skin troubles and toilet uses.
Sample Each Free by Mall
with ai-o. book oa the akin. AdHna pon-eard:
"Cwtacura. Dope 7 Bootoa.. Bale avrrBera.