e TOE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, XOVEMRER 12, 1916. DANCING FROCK OF GREEN SATIN-STRIPED SATIN POPULAR FOR MAIDS IN CHRISTMAS HOLIDAYS Frock of Soft Soiree Silk and Chiffon in New Raspberry Pink Shade, With Just a Touch of Dull Gold Embroidery on Bodice Front and Apron, Is Special Occasion Dress for Young Girl Usually Garbed in Dark Serge. A a jl rTv n Vvi,: !; w, v l -,T - -Hi -I" 1 ; - ? ' ' '! llli i rf'krJ I- ( lit If ;:r i4 , . V ?: VSjHl.t f 1 $ fcr' HlbjL. -.el Vi ii-r .?! Is v, - r 4 I l - r - 1 EVENT the little maid not yet "out" must have her delectable dancing1 Irock for Christmas week parties and dancing class affairs while the undergrads are home for the holidays. Youth and springtime pereonified are in this dancing: frock of palest green eatin-striped taffeta with a cluster of apple blossoms at the girdle and stray blossoms alighted, here and there on the upstanding frill of the gathered ekirt. Pale green slippers and silk stockings to match the frock, of course, and not a single bit of jewelry except the watch bracelet, which, one understands, has been "wished on" and may not be removed even for a dance. . A special occasion frock for the young girl who is usually garbed in the dark serge of school days is of soft soiree silk and chiffon "and in a new raspberry shade. There is just a touch of dull and gold thread embroidery on bodice front and apron. Through the chiffon bodice and shirred band on the .tunic is the gleam of white satin which forms the foundation frock. Nar row bands of fur outline the shirred hand and define a rounded neck omen ing, the low fur collar supporting a cape collar of the soiree silk which hangs at the back. , There is something delightfully quaint about the fur-edred apron of Georgette crepe which falls over a gathered skirt of satin. The round necked bodice is of eat in also a -dainty flesh-pink tone, with the fur otter around the decoliotage and arm open ings. Underneath is a guipe of flesh pink Georgette supporting the puffed sleeves.'. Pink stockings, and glazed kid danckij slippers below the simply cut, gathered skirt, which ie, of course, hemmed by hand in correct fashion, and with silk thread exactly matching the fabric. 7ven Candy Must Blend in Color on Best Tables. II luck and Yellow la Latent 'Combi nation for Formal Dinner AVlth Decorations Carefully Placed. A LITTLE, thing like candy of the wrong color can spil a beautifully set table, no matter how rich the silver or how heavy the snowy linen. There is a great deal of color value, too. In rightly selected bonbons, value that the expert hostess well appreciates. A new color scheme for the formal dinner is black and yellow, and a most distinguished dinner, given for a debu tante of the season last week, showed this decoration. The yellow candles had shades of striped black and yel ' low silk and the candlesticks were of black glazed earthenware. A vase of the same pottery, filled with yellow roses formed the centerpiece. Small yellow china dishes at each plate held salted almonds, and in sev eral tall comports of the black glazed earthenware were chocolate-coated and pale-yellow bonbons, not piled helter skelter, formally arranged in pyramid fashion, a row of chocolate, a row of - .ji-U1 : V) i ' X - "' A 11 3t t, . ' : : N if If i : 1; - - I-- ' , it? r ? vR WA yellow, and so on to the top. The cameo medallions hand - painted in I place cards of yellow cardboard had black and white at one corner. BY ANNIE BLANCHE SHELBY. ONFORMABLY to a number of re- j I quests, starting today I will for a time devote a portion of my weekly talk to a brief form of Instruc tion for the beginner at auction. While In a sense it may seem that I have been putting "the cart before the horse," my readers will'. I know, par don the digression for the sake of the greatest good to the greatest number, y Auction In Brief. Auction is a partnership game played by four persons, two playing against two. Players cut for partnefs.' Those cut ting the two higher cards play agaisnt those cutting the two lower. When two or more cards of equal value are cut, the suits they stand for determine which is the higher or the highest card. A club card would rank as the highest, the diamond next, then the heart; the spade as the lowest. In cutting the ace ranks as the lowest card. The player cutting the lowest card has the deal. The entire pack of cards is used. The cards are dealt, one at a time, from left to right. Each player receives 13 cards. The deal passes in regular or der to, the left. Prior to dealing the cards must be cut by the player at the dealer's right. In cutting at least four cards must be left in each packet. To avoid confusion as 'to whose turn it is to deal, as well as for the sake of convenience, two packs of cards are used. . The pack not. in play Is called the "still pack." It is shuffled by the dealer's partner .and placed to tne left of tne player next to deal. The trump suit, or no trump, as the case may be, is determined by bidding. All players have the right to bid. The dealer has the first right, then the player to his left, next bis partner, and lastly the player to his right. All play era must bid, double, or redouble or pass. If all four players pass, the hands are thrown up and the deal passes to the player next in turn to deal. The player who bids the greatest number of tricks or an equal number of a higher trick valuation becomes known as "the declarer," and plays his own and his partner's hands. The only exception to this is when the two part ners bid for the same thing. Then the player who first made the bid, not the one calling the greater number o tricks in it, plays the two hands. In bidding, one names not only "no trump," or a certain suit, but a defi nite number of tricks, as "one no trump," "two spades," etc A player may bid any number of times, naming a greater number of tricks In .the bid originally made or changing to another bearing in mind that bids must be on a constantly in-, creasing ratio so long as he is over bid or there has been e double or re double. Save under these conditions no player can raise his first or original bid. When three players in their regular order "pass," the bidding ceases. The highest bid holds good and the play begins. The. player to the left of the declarer leads to the first trick. TUen the part ner -of the declarer, who becomes known as "dummy," places his cards, face upward, upon the table and the declarer pltrys .the hand in connection with his own. Dummy has nothing whatever to say in regard to the play. Bids have different numerical values according to the particular suit named. The highest is the no-trump bid. next spades, then hearts, then diamonds, and, lastly, clubs. The value of the no-trump bid is 10, spades 9, hearts 8, diamonds 7, clubs 6. For the sake of convenience the suits are spoken of as "major" and "minor." Spades and hearts are major, diamonds and clubs minor. The score sheet is divided into two portions by a horizontal line. Below the line are recorded trick points made by the declarer when he fulfills his contract that is, takes as many tricks as he has named in his bid. Above the line are recorded points for honors, slam and penalties; also the rubber bonus. Game consists of 30 points, obtained by trick scores alone. As Was been explained, points toward game can only be made by the declarer, and then only when he makes good his contract. The "xubber" is the best of three games. If a side wins two games in succession, the rubber is decided and the third is not played. The rubber bonus is 250 points. This is recorded in the honor score. Tricks have no counting value until after six have been taken. "Six tricks are known as "the book." Every trick taken over and above the book counts six. seven, eight, nine or. ten points, according to what has been bid. when the declarant makes good. For in stance, if he has bid "three hearts," he must take that number of tricks over the book (nine, in all) in order to score. If he takes less than that number, he gets no trick score, even though he make have taken the odd trick or tricks. If he takes more than the number he has bid he receives the value of each over-trick. The odd trick is the trick taken over and above the six tricks which con stitute the' book. When the declarer falls to take the number of tricks he contracts to take the' adversaries score F0 points per trick wherein he falls. This regardless of the value of the bid; that is, whether it be a no trump, a spade, heart, 'dia mond or club. At a double the ad versaries score 100 points for each missing trick; at a redouble, 200. These are known as "penalty points" and are scored in the adversaries' honor score, or above the line. The adversaries never score in the trick score, even though they win the odd trick or tricks. When the declarer makes good his ontract, at a double, he scores dou bled value of each trick in the trick score. He also scores In the honor score SO points for making at a double, and 50 points also in the honor score for each trick he may take in excess of the number bid. When the declarer makes good at redouble he scores the redoubled value of each trick in the trick score. 00 .in the honor score for making good at a redouble and 100 also in the honor score for each trick taken n excess of the number bid. These also are known as penalty points. One double and one redouble only re allowed. A double may be declared only over an adversary's declaration; a redouble only over an adversary's dou- A double is not a bid in the sense that it increases the value of the bid made (save only when the results are recorded), but it opens the way for urther bidding. The ho'nors at a no-trump declaration are the four aces; at trump, the five highest cards of the suit ace, king. ueen, jack and ten. The side holding the majority of honors receives the honor score. At a trump there is al ways an honor score; at no trump it often happens that each side holds wo aces, so there is no honor score, n other words, "aces are easy." If four aces are held in one hand. the honor score for the side is 100; .if our aces, divided, are held by one side. he honor score is 40; if three aces are held by one side, the honor score is 30. At a trump three honors, often spoken f as "simple honors," score the value of two tricks of the suit declared; four honors, the value of four tricks; flvj honors, the value of five tricks. Four honors if held in one hand score the value of eight tricks; four in one hand. he fifth in the partner's, the value of nine tricks; five honors in one hand, the value of 10 tricks. To illustrate: Three honors at a spade trump would equal 8, four would equal 36. five 45; four honors in one hand would score 7 four in one hand, the tifth in the part ner's. 81; five in one hand, 90. "Slam" is a term used to indicate that one sid has won the-cntire 13 tricks. It entitles such players to 100 points in the honor score. "Little slam" Is a term to indicate that one side has won 12 of the 13 tricks. The players so winning receive 60 points in the honor score. To determine results at tlTe end of the rubber, the two scores of each side, that is. the score above and "the score below the line,, are added separately, and the smaller sum subtracted from the larger. The difference shows the number of points the winning side is ahead. It will happen not Infrequently that one side has won the rubber bonus. yet the opponents having the larger score are in reality tne winners of the rubber. "Love score" is a term used when side has no score: "love all" when neither side has a score. Penalties for revokes, leading out of turn, exposed cards, etc., must be re ferred to under "The Laws of Auction," space not admitting of the requisite ex planations. Now that the glorious Fall Weather has given way to Autumnal winds and weeping skies and that the one topic which has enlisted the attention for weeks, the election, is about at an end. the various card clubs of the city, social and otherwise, are rapidly resuming their regular meetings. A great re- viva of Interest is being manifested and the desire to study and thus gain tangible results from the meetings is very apparent. It is safe to predict that by the end of the f eason Portland may Boast or a consiaeraDie larger number of sound, educated players than at present. The social round In the respect of cards was set in motion a few after noons ago when Mrs. and Miss Hirnch. vapll known, both for "heir card ability and gracious hospitality, were hostesses at a large "bridge at their spacious home on St. Clair street. Many -of the best women players of the city were bidden and the affair was highly en joyable. both from a social and an ar tistic standpoint. A large "bridge." in which a number of players participate was also given on Tuesday afternoon last at the home of Mrs. Cora Puffer. 613 Third street. SOCIETY, SPORTS, LITERATURE AND DRESS ARE MEANS OF BRINGING WOMEN INTO LIMELIGHT : Niece of Ambassador to Japan, Indianapolis 13-Year-Old Girl Swimming Champion, "Diamond Queen of Argen tina," Mary Roberts Kinehart and Mrs. Earl Carroll, Skyscaper Bride, Figure in News. V ' 1 T: A fy',e i? I I w .-t S : t V, 1 - 1. i & I - ' I fSiZr' Zecw CZ?AzttJ xi-TTJm LAURA uURTS is the -niece or George W. Guthrie, the Ambas sador to Japan, and a well-known society girl of Pittsburg. She appeared in some tableaux at Bar Harbor for charity. One of the best-known of the titled American women In London arrived in New York recently, accompanied by her husband. She is Lady Fermor-Hesketh and she was Florence Sharon, of Cali fornia, when she married in 18S0. Her husband w very wealthy, and she brought him a large fortune. Little Thelma Darby,, of rndianapolls, only 13 years old. astonished the sport ing world by winning the 880-yard championship swim for women at St. I.ouis. and making it in record time. Her time was 16 minutes 8 seconds. Thelma's mother i very proud of her. "She is just a happy-go-lucky young ster," she jffiid. "and never worries or seems to give her swimming a thought. The closer the race the better she likes It. She still plays with dolls and dishes and her kitten as though she were eight or nine. She began going in the water when she was six." Mrs. Leon Cohen, known as "The Dia mond Queen of the Argentine." may have gone to Europe with the notion that all the dressmnkene of Paris were at the front. But she very soon found that there were plenty of good gowns SZj-S' jETcSrr-Z C3tr'r-o7 to be had at the old spots, and she dazzled the homecomers on the Dutch ship witn her wardrobe as much as with her jewels. Mr. Cohen i in New York, on her way to Buenos Ayres. Her husband is a wealthy merchant of that city. Mary Roberts Rinehart, the well known author, is one of several women writers who have visited the war zone for tlie purpose of learning at first hand and writing about the great war. Mrs. Earl Carroll i spending her honeymoon with her husband on the roof, of a 19-story skyscraper In New York. Both are musicians. Mr. Car roll built a bungalow way up in the air, whence a grand view of the Jersey shore is obtainable. There is plenty of fresh air and sunshine, too. And next season Mrs. Carroll will have a garden around her odd home. Receptacle for Best .' Corset Must Be Attractive. Dainty Womaa Waatn Dainty N'est for Coatly Article of Wardrobe. Good Alibi. Magistrate (to Mr. Simple, who has been summoned for creating a disturb ance and giving false alarms) Well Guilty or not guilty? Mr. Simple Uullty, sir; but it was like this, sir: Op my way home I found a policeman's whistle My son being ill. I let him play with it. and he ac cidentally swallowed It. and now he's got whooping cough, and every time he coughs I get tho house surrounded by policemen. Chicago Journal. 1 - :-r .... 'v.. r - - il i wide bowl of tiny forget-me-nots. The wedding cake may be in the center of the table. Some of the bride's girl friends may be asked to help serve. Place small dishes of nuts, olives and candies on the table. If a hot dish is to be served. It le a good plan to have it In a chafing-dish at one end of the table. The sandwiches and cakes should be placed on large plates on the sideboard. The Ices may be served from the kitchen or from the other end of Mhe table by one of the girls. A very pretty confection Is creamed strawberrirn. These are made by cov ering perfec berries with pink fondant. A pretury arranged lunrneon naa ior the centerpiece low plaque of violets. and at each cover was a bouquet ot violets. Tlie ice cream was vanilla. served In sherbet glasses, with a row of candled violets round the, edge and spoonful of violet sirup poured over it. The rakes were Iced with white, and Candled violet with citron leaves topped each one. During dessert the hostess presentea parcel to the guest of honor, wrapped in violet tissue paper. Inside were sev eral sets of bureau drawer pads, made of lavender and white sllkaleen. with violets; a dozen bags made of lavender ribbon filled with lavender: some square sachets made of ribbon " five inches wirte. three of them tied to gether, with a few artificial violets tucked Into the bows, and some tiny heart-shaped ones with ribbons to fast en them to coat bankers. The girls had got together one afternoon and made theie. and It cost no more t.ian I. cents. Corset Bags for Cbrlataaaa Gifts. itT-T - mHERE is nothing that gives the JL dainty woman more satisfaction than an attractive receptacle for her "best corset." The corset Is such a costly item of the wardrobe nowadays that it deserves a dainty nest of its own. to keep It speckless and separate from other belongings. Some of these cases are of hand painted ribbon. 'The one pictured is of palest yellow linen, hand-embroidered with daisies in white and yellow, the long, narrow bag drawn up on pale yellow ribbons. Buffet Style Proposed for Simple Wedding Breakfast. THE easiest way to eerve a wedding breakfast, unless the house is very large or there are very few guests, is buffet style. In the center of the table there was be a silver basket of bride rosea and maidenhair ferns, . or a low, v - ,4 w " y -..' , J f " ' i t . - J , ..' , .':: .. . S then traveled slowly, hesitatingly down the shaggy neck. "Iiowker gave a quick spring and landed on Antony's knees, sniffing eagerly at his vest. Thrn. with dis concerting suddenness he lifted his pert little head and caught Antony uinaVr the fat chin with his cold, bewhis kered nose. Antony drew back his head with a grunt that was almost a chuckle, and liuwker boldly tood up with his paws on Antony's shoulder and sniffed at his enr." Dog Knows How to Make Friends. X N the October Woman's Home Com- JL panion there is a story about a dog who made friends with a stranger. The writer describes the incident in this fashion: "Then, his native curiosity getting the better of him. he stood up and cautiously approached. The man did nothing except emit noises. Bowker came closer and sniffed tentatively at his trouser legs. He detected some thing of absorbing interest there. A man who smells of dog is to be neither feared nor hated. "Bowker lifted his nose and sniffed higher. Then, very gently, he raised himself on his hind legs and placed his forepaws on Antony's knee, look ing up inqufrlngly into the blind eyes. "The rumbling died out in Antony's throat. Slowly he raised a groping hand and rested it for a moment on the dog's paws. A little moist tongue came out and touched it. Antony's hand sought the hard little head and Remove Pinto And BtacKtiedds 11 X V I s s Willi Qiticum Bathe with Caticura Soap and hot water to free the pores of impurities and follow with gentle application of Cuticura Oint ment to soqihe and heal. Absolutely nothing' better, purer or sweeter for all skin troubles and toilet uses. Sample Each Free by Mall with ai-o. book oa the akin. AdHna pon-eard: "Cwtacura. Dope 7 Bootoa.. Bale avrrBera.