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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (April 9, 1916)
THE SUNDAY OltEGONIAN, PORTLAND, APIilL, 9, 1916. 7 SPORTS COATS TAKING PLACE OF SILK SWEATERS FOR OUTDOOR USE Hats and Surtouts of Reis Transparent Cloth Particularly Apropos for Week-End Visits Where Golfing or Other Outdoor Activities in Wet Weather May Become Necessary. INSTEAD of a silk sweater, some dainty maids wear delightful little sports coats made of tussah silk In the natural or pale tan color. The belt winds about itself in a new and fetching: way and fastens with big but tons covered with blue tussah. The skirt, which has a jaunty Dutch sil houette, is of blue tussah with an "apron" of the tan tussah imposed upon the front. The smart flare of skirt and coat is partly in the cut, but partly also due to facing of witchtex stiffen ing fabric a light, resilient lining which does not crush or grow limp if exposed to damp weather. The par ticularly taking sports hat is of tan tussah and cream satin. Both the coat and the picturesque sou'wester hat are made of reis trans parent storm cloth, which sheds water like the proverbial duck's back. This new fabric comes in plain and plaid effects and the coat pictured is of plaid reis. while the sou'wester is plain. The coat is big and roomy, yet Its lines are smart and trim. The collar meets the down-turned brim of the aou'wester and the edge of the coat falls to the edge of the skirt beneath. For motoring, sailboating or motor boating. in wet weather these coats are exactly the thing. A jaunty slip-on topcoat of the new reis transparent storm cloth with hat to match will take up little room in the week-end suitcase and may save the day for you if the weather proves damp. One of these coats and a down turned hat of the storm cloth wiH keep you dry and comfortable even in pelting rain. The golf coat is short, eo as not to interfere with the swing of the drive, and should be worn over a sport skirt of light, all-wool fabric. Health and Beauty Hints Given. If you are weary after a fatiguing day, on reaching home take ten min utes' rest lying on the back. When you rise cleanse the face with cold cream, rubbing lightly across the lines . and in an upward direction to correct sag ging o the muscles. A cloth wet in very hot water should then be applied, followed by several applications of cold water. You will be surprised to find yourself quite rejuvenated. Parents often make a serious mis take in urging food on their children when they do not care for it. One meets parents now and again who worry over a. child because he does not fill him self full up three times a day. A far better plan would be to provide whole some and reasonably attractive food for the child, and then let him alone. If he does not want to eat, don't press food on him. If you insist on using any cosmetic, do buy the powder rouge. Put a bit of cold cream on your face first, then dust over lightly with a good face powder, and finally dab on a little rouge, the less the better. Never use powder or rouge without a foundation of cold cream. Do not economize on the money ' you spend for powder or rouge, for cheap cosmetics are only used at the expense of your skin. SPORT GIRL THIS SEASON TO BE SIMPLY IRRESISTIBLE CREATURE Vast Stores of Equipment for Summer Strategies Are Arriving in Shops, Including Enchanting Blouses, Plaid and Striped Skirts Cut on Bias. THE sport girl is the rage. One meets her on the stage, in the shop windows, on magazine cov ers, on the advertising pages inside the covers, and on the photographic pages of Sunday supplements. She is per vasive, this sport girl and an army of her kind is now waiting in ambush stores of equipment in the way of smart toggery are daily pouring In from shops and tailors and dressmak ers, ready to march forth and en thrall hearts masculine the moment sport weather or, Jo other words, a &; ivii " & " 't '-K4-,f4j" I V-'- Vv-g?' f0 ' y JJw. I ' ' y ' 1 V .":":-: S ' - I' i - ;- 1 - ' 'I 1 I ' ' -7H 1 V ' i r & , ill v late May temperature gives the pass word. Woman dearly joves something dash ing in the way of dress. Even in de mure Victorian times the equestrienne wore a long feather on her rigid, man nish riding hat and an enormous skirt that swept out behind her as she gal loped and cantered her steed. In sport toggery the modern maid may indulge this hankering after dash to its utmost. Dashing, sport raiment is. and the more dashing the more de sirable. Gone ia the yard-ions ridins plume and sweeping skirt of Victorian days, but the modern riding girl has a dash all her own incidentally - one that would have caused her Victorian grand mamma to faint; for actual breeches replace the skirt of the '40s. Judged by modern standards, how ever, there is nothing startling or in the least horrifying about these sensi ble riding breeches, fitted to a nicety and almost hidden under the flaring coat skirt and - the tall riding boot. Riding coats this Spring are smart, fit ting in at the waistline and flaring out below the hips in a particularly dash ing manner. Some of the best tailors are putting facings of resilient lining fabric at the edge of the coat to give it a crisp yet supple flare from the figure. The coat has long mannish lapels and soft roll collar. The Spring riding girl selects a cross-saddle habit of pin checked worsted or dark manish mix ture tailored in very best style for there must be, no doubt about the per fection of a riding habit. It is one cos tume with which convention permits no liberties to be taken. There is a high mark for its style of cut and fin ish and this mark it must meet. Tan boots and gloves, a simple straw riding sailor, a loose riding skirt of white tub silk and a carefully tied Ascot complete the riding habit. The girl who does a good deal of motoring in all weathers, or who loves to tramp on rainy days, or who de lights to sail in a brisk breeze and heavy sea. will appreciate to the full the new wet-weather coats of reis transparent storm cloth which add to their practical qualities a very decided smartness. Lines Are Graceful. Their lines are graceful and know ing, and one may choose a box coat model with deep patch pockets and con vertible collar for wear with a rough tweed golf skirt; or a dress-length coat. belted at the waistline and furnished with deep pockets and a slicker collar that turns up above the ears. With this attractive coat should be worn a sou'wester hat made of the same ma terial, a light, transparent waterproof fabric that is highly glazed and shows a smart plaid pattern over the surface. Beer and Martial et Armand have brought out rainy-day coats of moire cire. some of them trimmed with strap pings of patent leather. The new reis transparent storm coats are not un like them in appearance, and have the same sporting, ready-for-rough-weather look that is so fetching. Sport Skirts Rale the Day. The sport skirt is so well established as the very backbone of the Summer sport wardrobe that already the trunk makers are getting out all sorts of de vices for trunks and wardrobes by means of which six to 12 sport skirts may be kept in orderly readiness. It will be a lucky girl who has 12 sport skirts at command, but every girl will own at least three this Summer, and one of the three will surely be of plaid worsted with the plaid cnt on the bias so that there is a V effect, pointing either downward or upward, at the front. The broad awning-striped ma terials are made up the same way, and some of these stripes are really aston ishing in color and in width. At a good price in a smart shop is an orange linen spbrt fabric with purple and red stripes four inches across. A pretty girl the other day stopped, en thralled, before it And said to her com panion "Isn't it the stunningest thing you ever saw? I am going to have a skirt of it for the Country Club." The golf links and tennis courts are going to be gay spots next July, if these sport fabrics are prophetic. Skirt Displays Pootwtar. Sport skirts of worsted or tweed have interlinings of witchtex at the hem to make them flare away from the feet, and the feet are always visible to several inches above the instep; sometimes in rubber-soled tennis shoes, high or Oxford style, and sometimes in buttoned boots of white buckskin, if the sport skirt is donned for ordinary morning wear, rather than for any par ticular sport that demands its own kind of footwear. Lanvin has evolved a sport suit that is supremely chic. It includes a short, flaring skirt and a medium-length flaring coat of tan covert. The skirt is faced deeply with white alpaca and the collar and reveres of the coat are of the same material. Rows of white bone buttons, set close together, run down the sides of the skirt, down the front of the jacket and down the inner side of the sleeve. This is the first time in the memory of woman that buttons have- been set down the inner side of a sleeve instead of the outer, and the effect has created a furore. Another triumph for Lanvin. There is a new sort of sport middy this year. It is the Hussian sport blouse, a cousin to last season's smock, but a much daintier affair. It slips on over the head and is belted, at the waistline, the part that falls over the hips having slashes at each side like a man's skirt. Sometimes there . is smocking at the shoulders, or the full ness may be added by box pleats. The deep collar tapers in front to a long slash which is closed over a buttoned flap. i OPERA SEASON NOW OVER HAS BEEN FULL OF GREAT MUSIC European Composers Are Not Forgotten Altogether, but Offerings Are Mostly From Artists on This Side certs Are Achievements in All Orchestra Cities. BY KMILIE FRANCES BAUER. NEW YORK. April 8. (Special.) With New York still blanketed in snow, it is difficult to believe that the season is over. It would prob ably be impossible to speculate on how many aspirants for musical honors have presented themselves this season. There have been many names which appeared but the one time and there have been pitifully few new names which will be heard again. It has been said that money sometimes buys ex perience In Europe, that young ar tists have to spend thousands for op portunities to gain a foothold and a renutatlon. In this country such op portunities are not available, and while it is better so. it make the game absolutely impossible- for many. With the concert of "request num bers" given recently the Philharmonic Orchestra, under Josef Stransky, closed a series of 46 concerts since November 1. This is a tremendous achievement, requiring steady rehearsing and re sulting in great strides for the organ ization. Mr. Stransky is beyond doubt a taskmaster of more than ordinary ability, and he has shown the best results in the homogeneity of his or chestra. In a year when novelties from abroad were rare there were several works from foreigners of more than passing Interest, but far better than that, there were several works by native compos ers, and even if some of these did not represent the experienced routine of Strauss, Reger, Ravel, rebussy et al. there was a new spark of interest aroused, and to the movement in gen eral it was Infinitely of greater worth. So far as the musical life of this country is concerned it was better to hear Seth Bingham's "Fantasy" for or chestra, and Walter Kramer's two symphonic sketches "Chant Negre" and "Valse Trlste," Fritz Stahlberg's suite for orchestra and Severn's concerto for violin than to have brought over any of the European work. Europe Has Representation. But it must not be imagined that the old-world composers were over looked. Mr. Stransky alone put to the credit of the Philharmonic Orchestra first productions of Max Reger's "Var iations on a Theme by Mozart," op. 132: Arnold Schoenberg's older work, "Pelleas et Nelisande." which could not be regarded as the most representative of his present moods; "Die Okoaniden." by Sibelius; Zdenko Fibich's idyll, "At Evening"; Dargomijsky's "Caeat choquo" and Frederick Delius' piano concerto, a beautiful work brought for ward by Percy Grainger. The New York Symphony Orchestra, under Walter Damrosch, which is well launched on its transcontinental tour. SILK GLOVES PROPER IN MOST ELABORATE DRESS Smart Styles of Season Come in Various Shades White Ones Have Black Embroidery on Backs, With Bracelet Band or Frills. EVERT woman is glad when the season for silk gloves comes 'round again. They are so cool, so comfortable, so easily drawn on and off, and so especially easy to keep spic and span. It is more or less of a bother to wash Wlhter gloves of kid and chamois, and still more of a bother to stretch them into shape when dry. Sometimes it is even necessary to thrust the end of a curling iron into the fingers to open them up into shape. Not so with the convenient silk glove, however. Rinsed out in two minutes and hung up to dry, it is all ready to slip on an hour or so. This season's silk gloves are very smart indeed on the hand, and they come in white, in various shades of gray, and in fawn, for war with dainty tailleurs, and in darker shades and in black for general wear. Some of them have little frills on the wrist in con trasting color, navy blue frills, for in stance, orw tan gloves, black frills on white gloves, and so on. An excellent style, both smart and conservative, is represented by gloves of white silk with black embroidery on the backs and a bracelet band of black silk at the wrist. The buttons also are black. One and two-button gloves will be fashionable this Spring, since sleeves are so long, and silk gloves will be cn regie with even the most elaborate and formal costumes. Things Worth Knowing MILITARY photographs of the ene my's position are now made by means of a camera carried aloft on a huge skyrocket. The uses of whaie oil. are more nu merous at the present time than ever before. " f One man in 203 is six feet high. If you count the number of times the letter "a" is used in a book, you will find the average to be less than one in a thousand. The true shape of the earth still awaits accurate determination. A recent invention provides an um brella frame or skeleton and any suit able number of interchangeable covers therefor, whereby a new cover may be substituted for an old, worn or dam aged one, or a cover of one color or figure may be substituted for another, according to the costume of a lady carrying the same. ' A dinner table around the earth 16 times would be required if the inhabit ants of the world sat down at' a meal together. With less than half of her available farming land utilized, the United States produces one-sixth of the world's wheat, four-ninth of its corn, one fourth of its oats, one-eighth, of its cattle, one-third of its hogs and one twelfth of its sheep. Scarletina is difficult to control, as its cause is unknown, and mild cases may occur which are almost impossible of detection, but which serves as a focus for further spread of the disease. The bootblack business is now fol lowed by the blind. When you take a seat in the chair it is only necessary to tell the attendant whether your shoes are black or tan. The charts of the coast and geodetic survey will be publicly displayed at the leading postofflces of the country to get persons familiar with their use. Sheep used as beasts of burden in Northern India carry loads of 20 pounds. Pacific island of Midway is import ing shiploads of soil in order to pro duce land capable of feeding cattle. .Laundry Helps Given. To have your clothes just as clean and white as possible, put a teaspon ful of peroxide in your soaking water. This acts as a harmless bleach to your linen. A slice of lemon in your boiler will also have the same effect. When blueing clothes add just a lit tle common table salt in the water. It helps to distribute the blueing and pre vents the clothes from looking streaked or patched. How many have heard the old legend, "The girl whose apron is wet, 'tis said, while she's over a tub, will never be wed?" Fortunately, this catastrophe may be easily prevented by wrapping gave 21 concerts in the subscription series, five gala concerts in Carnegie Hall, and the same orchestra and its conductor presented the six Carnegie Hall concerts in the young people's course. Mr. Damroscti also gave more attention to the American composers than he has done heretofore. Among the important works heard by his orchestra may bo mentioned John A. Carpenter's suite, "Advftnturefi in a Perambulator," a symphony by Victor Kolar. one of the first violins of the orchestra, a pupil of Dvorak: Daniel Gregory Mason's "Pageant oT Cape Cod" music, and David Stanley Smith's lovely overture. "Prince Hal." Among the novelties which were re ceived with the most enthusiasm may be mentioned Mr. Damrosch's own music composed for Margaret Anglin's productions of Greek drama in the open air theater of Berkeley. This music presented by the orchestra brought into requisition the contralto Merle Alcock. who sang the same num bers at the Greek Theater, as she did in Aeolian Hall this Winter. Mr. Damrosch only presented in New York, however, excerpts from "Iphigenia in Aulis," and not the music which he wrote also for "Media." From foreign sources Mr. Damrosch's novelties Included Schoenberg's "Kam mersinfonie," excerpts from Ravel's "Pantomime Ballet," "Daphnls et Chloe," a ' suite from Bruneau's "L'Attaque du Moulin," Florent Schmidtt's "Pupazzi" and two ex quisite mood pictures by Delius, en titled "Summer Night on. the River" and "On Hearing the First Cuckoo." Another equally important offering made by Mr. Damrosch through the medium of Marcia Van Dresser was a set of Gustav Mahler's songs with or chestra, unquestionably among the most beautiful offerings on any con cert stage this season. The Boston Symphony Orchestra gave its usual ten concerts, its only new of fering having been Ernest Schelling's "Impressions From an Artist's Life" for piano and orchestra with the com poser at the piano. The Russian Symphony Orchestra of which organization the reason of being Is to present novelties by Russian com posers, gave four subscription concerts, and succeeded in bringing forward sev eral interesting works, not previously heard in this country. The principal one of these was Strawinsky's "First Symphony," a work surprisingly simple for the expectations which had been aroused for the contrary effects but it must not be forgotten that this was the "First Symphony" and the composer underwent a decided change of heart by the time he wrote the music pre sented by the Diaghileff Russian dan cers in "L'Oiseau de Feu." Other novelties presented by air. Alt- , , .! I ( 5 i; " v s ; V, 13 ri : n - : l: :&::' -:'-; JL t t J l Fashion Commends SIlkGIores. 4 an old newspaper over the top of the washing board to absorb the water, which otherwise would soak into her dress. The problems of quick laundering for your crepe de chine waist may. be sim plified by wrapping your waist, when it is first washed, in a Turkish towel. This absorbs the moisture quickly, but leaves sufficient dampness for it to be ironed easily. White crepe de chine may be colored to one's taste by soaking crepe paper of the desired shade in water, using the rsult as a dye. Girdle Devices in Fashion. Spring and Summer frocks will de fine the natural waistline, and one notes that there are many devices for getting away from the conventional girdle or belt. Skirts gathered in three or four shirrings at the waist are for slender figures only. These shirrings are done in the French manner; long stitches on the right side, tiny ones on the wrong side, and the stitches care fully p.nder each other in the shirrings. This draws up the material in even folds. Report of Japanese Rice Crop. Returns issued by the Japanese De partment of Agriculture and Commerce, as reported In the Japan Gazette, show that the actual crop of rice In Japan last year was 279,571,810 bushels, the first and second estimates having been 285.031,000 and 278,505,125 bushels, re spectively. The crops during recent vears have been as follows, in bushels: 1910. 233,166.896; 1911. 258,562,665; 1912. 251,112.545: 1913. 251,276,335: 1914. 285. 031,010; 1915. 279,571.810. To Trove She Could. Life. Astounded Mother Why. Tottie. you never told me you had invited so many children to this party! Small IIostess--That's 'cause you said that I could never keep a secret. -Con- schuler were six tableaux under the name of "Exhibition Pictures" by Mourssorgsky. a "Serbian Fantasy" by Rimsky-Korsakof f. "Overture on Three Grecian Themes" by Glazunoff. and the conductor's own orchestral arrange ment of Rachmaninoff's fantasia for two pianos. The People's Symphony Society un der F. X. Arens, gave three orchestral concerts in Carnegie Hall: at the Met ropolitan Opera House thre were 19 orchestral concerts and the Minneapolis Orchestra gave one of the most inter esting contributions to the series. The X'hiladelphia Orchestra under its conductor Leopold Stokovski, will come lo the Metropolitan Opera House to present Mahler's herculean work, which has been given now in Philadelphia a number of times. The soloists will b the same as those who presented it at its first performance in Philadelphia. In addition to these concerts by pro fessional orchestras, Arnold Volpe has shown remarkable results with his young men who gave one public con cert at Aeolian Hall. This organization known as the "Young Men's Symphony Society," was founded by the late Al fred Seligman, and it Is kept alive by a bequest from the great philanthropist. Carmen Closes Season. New York's last week of opera at the Metropolitan included two perform ances of "Carmen," to give Miss Farrar her complete list of appearances. She also was heard in a special matinee of "Madame Butterfly" with Botta as Pinkerton and De Luca as Sharpess. Wagner had two representations. The first was "DasRaeingold," with Mine.' Kurt and the closing performance, "Siegfried" with Mme. Gadski. Mme. Barrientos was heard with Caruso and Ahato in . "Rigoletto," while the cast was further distinguished by Mme. Homer as Maddalena. The Metropolitan Opera Company with its orchestra and entire force go to Boston for the next four weeks, while the opera house in New York will be given over to the Diaghileff Ballet Russe. A great event of the week was the first appearance in song recital of Emmy Destinn. It must be admitted that there was much speculation as to how great a success the noted opera singer would be in the recital field and it is due Mme. Destinn to say that she acquitted herself in a masterly manner. Heis is one of the most beautiful voices of the stage, indeed it would be differ cult to realize anything more beautiful than the purity of her high floating tones. Long before Mme. Destinn was actually known in this country, her reputation as writer, painter, pianist and singer had reached these shores. When she became a favorite at the Metropolitan these qualities were over- HEALTHTC0M F0 RT B EAUTV A good friend has set us to thinking. She said: "Your Wonder lift ads remind aw of patent medicines." Which means that our ads have given her the idea that the Wonderlift is a sick woman's corset. Probably that's our fault we may have said too much about the marvelous health features when, in reality, the Wonderlift is quite as remarkable as a style corset. Here's the fact: The very features that make Nemo "Won derlift Corsets so healthful also mould the figure into perfect fashion-lines. No. 555 For instance: 1. The Wonderlift Bandlet pro motes health by giving perfect physical support. It also prevent! the corset from riding tip and twisting, thus preserving smooth, fashionable lines. 2. It reshapes and reduces a too-full figure, and builds up and rounds out a too-slim figure. In other words, it corrects natural figare-defects; insures comfort. 3. The Nemo "firidge" assures freedom from pressure overgastrio region, promotes free breathing and good d i ges tion , i. e.: HEAL TH It also induces an erect, grace' fal, fashionable pose, without which real STYLE is impossible. EMPHATICALLY th Nemo Wonderlift IS a S r YLE Corset of the high est class, and it is MADE SO by its wonderful HYGIENIC FEATURES There's one Wonderlift model for very slim figures with sharp hip bones and concave abdomen No. 557, at $5.00. Another for the biggest women, with rolls of flesh all over No. 998, at $10.00. This is the only corset of i ts kind ever made. Then there are other models, not so extreme: 554 for short stout women S5.0O 555 lor tsller full figures $5.00 556 for slender to medium $5.00 10OO model de luarr. of lustrous brocsde. for average full figurea $10. We confidently re peat this prediction: In due time, nearly every woman who wears a corset will wear a Nemo Won derlift. NEMO SELF-REDUCING $3.50, $4, $5, up to $10 NEMO MILITARY-BELT For the Slender $3.50 GOOD STORES EVERYWHERE Viait the Permanent NEMO EXPOSITION NEW GARDEN PIER Atlantic City. N. J. Num Hnieaic-FaaliiaB laititote. New Tark looked, but as she appeared on a recital platform devoid of stage accessories, make-up and costume, she radiated all the big brain power which has made her the unique figure that she Is and. she gave the sort of a recital which can only be given by a great artist. FRECKLE-FACE Sun and Wind IlrinK Out I Kly Spotn. How to Hrmore Kaslly. Here's a chance. Miss Freckle-Face, to try a remedy for freckles with the guarantee of a reliable dealer that it will not cost you a penny unless it removes the freckles: while if it does give you a clear complexion the ex pense is trifling. Simply get an ounce of othine dou ble strength from any druggist and a few applications should show you how easy it is to rid yourself of the homely freckles and get a beautiful complex ion. Rarely Is more than one ounce needed for the worst case. Be sure to ask the druggist for the double-strength othine, as this is the prescription sold under guarantee of money back if It falls to remove freckles.