THE SUNDAY OltEGONIAN, PORTLAND, APIilL, 9, 1916.
7
SPORTS COATS TAKING PLACE OF
SILK SWEATERS FOR OUTDOOR USE
Hats and Surtouts of Reis Transparent Cloth Particularly Apropos for Week-End Visits Where Golfing or Other
Outdoor Activities in Wet Weather May Become Necessary.
INSTEAD of a silk sweater, some
dainty maids wear delightful little
sports coats made of tussah silk
In the natural or pale tan color. The
belt winds about itself in a new and
fetching: way and fastens with big but
tons covered with blue tussah. The
skirt, which has a jaunty Dutch sil
houette, is of blue tussah with an
"apron" of the tan tussah imposed upon
the front. The smart flare of skirt
and coat is partly in the cut, but partly
also due to facing of witchtex stiffen
ing fabric a light, resilient lining
which does not crush or grow limp if
exposed to damp weather. The par
ticularly taking sports hat is of tan
tussah and cream satin.
Both the coat and the picturesque
sou'wester hat are made of reis trans
parent storm cloth, which sheds water
like the proverbial duck's back. This
new fabric comes in plain and plaid
effects and the coat pictured is of
plaid reis. while the sou'wester is
plain. The coat is big and roomy, yet
Its lines are smart and trim. The collar
meets the down-turned brim of the
aou'wester and the edge of the coat
falls to the edge of the skirt beneath.
For motoring, sailboating or motor
boating. in wet weather these coats are
exactly the thing.
A jaunty slip-on topcoat of the new
reis transparent storm cloth with hat
to match will take up little room in
the week-end suitcase and may save
the day for you if the weather proves
damp. One of these coats and a down
turned hat of the storm cloth wiH
keep you dry and comfortable even in
pelting rain. The golf coat is short,
eo as not to interfere with the swing
of the drive, and should be worn over
a sport skirt of light, all-wool fabric.
Health and Beauty Hints Given.
If you are weary after a fatiguing
day, on reaching home take ten min
utes' rest lying on the back. When you
rise cleanse the face with cold cream,
rubbing lightly across the lines . and
in an upward direction to correct sag
ging o the muscles. A cloth wet in
very hot water should then be applied,
followed by several applications of
cold water. You will be surprised to
find yourself quite rejuvenated.
Parents often make a serious mis
take in urging food on their children
when they do not care for it. One meets
parents now and again who worry over
a. child because he does not fill him
self full up three times a day. A far
better plan would be to provide whole
some and reasonably attractive food
for the child, and then let him alone.
If he does not want to eat, don't press
food on him.
If you insist on using any cosmetic,
do buy the powder rouge. Put a bit of
cold cream on your face first, then
dust over lightly with a good face
powder, and finally dab on a little
rouge, the less the better. Never use
powder or rouge without a foundation
of cold cream. Do not economize on
the money ' you spend for powder or
rouge, for cheap cosmetics are only
used at the expense of your skin.
SPORT GIRL THIS SEASON TO BE
SIMPLY IRRESISTIBLE CREATURE
Vast Stores of Equipment for Summer Strategies Are Arriving in Shops, Including Enchanting Blouses, Plaid
and Striped Skirts Cut on Bias.
THE sport girl is the rage. One
meets her on the stage, in the
shop windows, on magazine cov
ers, on the advertising pages inside the
covers, and on the photographic pages
of Sunday supplements. She is per
vasive, this sport girl and an army of
her kind is now waiting in ambush
stores of equipment in the way of
smart toggery are daily pouring In
from shops and tailors and dressmak
ers, ready to march forth and en
thrall hearts masculine the moment
sport weather or, Jo other words, a
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late May temperature gives the pass
word. Woman dearly joves something dash
ing in the way of dress. Even in de
mure Victorian times the equestrienne
wore a long feather on her rigid, man
nish riding hat and an enormous skirt
that swept out behind her as she gal
loped and cantered her steed.
In sport toggery the modern maid
may indulge this hankering after dash
to its utmost. Dashing, sport raiment
is. and the more dashing the more de
sirable. Gone ia the yard-ions ridins plume
and sweeping skirt of Victorian days,
but the modern riding girl has a dash
all her own incidentally - one that
would have caused her Victorian grand
mamma to faint; for actual breeches
replace the skirt of the '40s.
Judged by modern standards, how
ever, there is nothing startling or in
the least horrifying about these sensi
ble riding breeches, fitted to a nicety
and almost hidden under the flaring
coat skirt and - the tall riding boot.
Riding coats this Spring are smart, fit
ting in at the waistline and flaring out
below the hips in a particularly dash
ing manner. Some of the best tailors
are putting facings of resilient lining
fabric at the edge of the coat to give
it a crisp yet supple flare from the
figure.
The coat has long mannish lapels
and soft roll collar. The Spring riding
girl selects a cross-saddle habit of pin
checked worsted or dark manish mix
ture tailored in very best style for
there must be, no doubt about the per
fection of a riding habit. It is one cos
tume with which convention permits
no liberties to be taken. There is a
high mark for its style of cut and fin
ish and this mark it must meet.
Tan boots and gloves, a simple straw
riding sailor, a loose riding skirt of
white tub silk and a carefully tied
Ascot complete the riding habit.
The girl who does a good deal of
motoring in all weathers, or who loves
to tramp on rainy days, or who de
lights to sail in a brisk breeze and
heavy sea. will appreciate to the full
the new wet-weather coats of reis
transparent storm cloth which add to
their practical qualities a very decided
smartness.
Lines Are Graceful.
Their lines are graceful and know
ing, and one may choose a box coat
model with deep patch pockets and con
vertible collar for wear with a rough
tweed golf skirt; or a dress-length coat.
belted at the waistline and furnished
with deep pockets and a slicker collar
that turns up above the ears. With
this attractive coat should be worn a
sou'wester hat made of the same ma
terial, a light, transparent waterproof
fabric that is highly glazed and shows
a smart plaid pattern over the surface.
Beer and Martial et Armand have
brought out rainy-day coats of moire
cire. some of them trimmed with strap
pings of patent leather. The new reis
transparent storm coats are not un
like them in appearance, and have the
same sporting, ready-for-rough-weather
look that is so fetching.
Sport Skirts Rale the Day.
The sport skirt is so well established
as the very backbone of the Summer
sport wardrobe that already the trunk
makers are getting out all sorts of de
vices for trunks and wardrobes by
means of which six to 12 sport skirts
may be kept in orderly readiness. It
will be a lucky girl who has 12 sport
skirts at command, but every girl will
own at least three this Summer, and
one of the three will surely be of plaid
worsted with the plaid cnt on the bias
so that there is a V effect, pointing
either downward or upward, at the
front. The broad awning-striped ma
terials are made up the same way, and
some of these stripes are really aston
ishing in color and in width.
At a good price in a smart shop is an
orange linen spbrt fabric with purple
and red stripes four inches across. A
pretty girl the other day stopped, en
thralled, before it And said to her com
panion "Isn't it the stunningest thing
you ever saw? I am going to have a
skirt of it for the Country Club." The
golf links and tennis courts are going
to be gay spots next July, if these
sport fabrics are prophetic.
Skirt Displays Pootwtar.
Sport skirts of worsted or tweed
have interlinings of witchtex at the
hem to make them flare away from the
feet, and the feet are always visible
to several inches above the instep;
sometimes in rubber-soled tennis shoes,
high or Oxford style, and sometimes in
buttoned boots of white buckskin, if
the sport skirt is donned for ordinary
morning wear, rather than for any par
ticular sport that demands its own kind
of footwear.
Lanvin has evolved a sport suit that
is supremely chic. It includes a short,
flaring skirt and a medium-length
flaring coat of tan covert. The skirt
is faced deeply with white alpaca and
the collar and reveres of the coat are of
the same material. Rows of white bone
buttons, set close together, run down
the sides of the skirt, down the front
of the jacket and down the inner side
of the sleeve. This is the first time in
the memory of woman that buttons
have- been set down the inner side of
a sleeve instead of the outer, and the
effect has created a furore. Another
triumph for Lanvin.
There is a new sort of sport middy
this year. It is the Hussian sport
blouse, a cousin to last season's smock,
but a much daintier affair. It slips on
over the head and is belted, at the
waistline, the part that falls over the
hips having slashes at each side like
a man's skirt. Sometimes there . is
smocking at the shoulders, or the full
ness may be added by box pleats. The
deep collar tapers in front to a long
slash which is closed over a buttoned
flap. i
OPERA SEASON NOW OVER HAS
BEEN FULL OF GREAT MUSIC
European Composers Are Not Forgotten Altogether, but Offerings Are Mostly From Artists on This Side
certs Are Achievements in All Orchestra Cities.
BY KMILIE FRANCES BAUER.
NEW YORK. April 8. (Special.)
With New York still blanketed
in snow, it is difficult to believe
that the season is over. It would prob
ably be impossible to speculate on how
many aspirants for musical honors
have presented themselves this season.
There have been many names which
appeared but the one time and there
have been pitifully few new names
which will be heard again. It has been
said that money sometimes buys ex
perience In Europe, that young ar
tists have to spend thousands for op
portunities to gain a foothold and a
renutatlon. In this country such op
portunities are not available, and
while it is better so. it make the
game absolutely impossible- for many.
With the concert of "request num
bers" given recently the Philharmonic
Orchestra, under Josef Stransky, closed
a series of 46 concerts since November
1. This is a tremendous achievement,
requiring steady rehearsing and re
sulting in great strides for the organ
ization. Mr. Stransky is beyond doubt
a taskmaster of more than ordinary
ability, and he has shown the best
results in the homogeneity of his or
chestra. In a year when novelties from abroad
were rare there were several works
from foreigners of more than passing
Interest, but far better than that, there
were several works by native compos
ers, and even if some of these did not
represent the experienced routine of
Strauss, Reger, Ravel, rebussy et al.
there was a new spark of interest
aroused, and to the movement in gen
eral it was Infinitely of greater worth.
So far as the musical life of this
country is concerned it was better to
hear Seth Bingham's "Fantasy" for or
chestra, and Walter Kramer's two
symphonic sketches "Chant Negre" and
"Valse Trlste," Fritz Stahlberg's suite
for orchestra and Severn's concerto for
violin than to have brought over any
of the European work.
Europe Has Representation.
But it must not be imagined that
the old-world composers were over
looked. Mr. Stransky alone put to the
credit of the Philharmonic Orchestra
first productions of Max Reger's "Var
iations on a Theme by Mozart," op.
132: Arnold Schoenberg's older work,
"Pelleas et Nelisande." which could not
be regarded as the most representative
of his present moods; "Die Okoaniden."
by Sibelius; Zdenko Fibich's idyll, "At
Evening"; Dargomijsky's "Caeat
choquo" and Frederick Delius' piano
concerto, a beautiful work brought for
ward by Percy Grainger.
The New York Symphony Orchestra,
under Walter Damrosch, which is well
launched on its transcontinental tour.
SILK GLOVES PROPER IN
MOST ELABORATE DRESS
Smart Styles of Season Come in Various Shades White Ones Have Black
Embroidery on Backs, With Bracelet Band or Frills.
EVERT woman is glad when the
season for silk gloves comes
'round again. They are so cool,
so comfortable, so easily drawn on and
off, and so especially easy to keep spic
and span. It is more or less of a bother
to wash Wlhter gloves of kid and
chamois, and still more of a bother to
stretch them into shape when dry.
Sometimes it is even necessary to
thrust the end of a curling iron into the
fingers to open them up into shape.
Not so with the convenient silk glove,
however. Rinsed out in two minutes
and hung up to dry, it is all ready to
slip on an hour or so.
This season's silk gloves are very
smart indeed on the hand, and they
come in white, in various shades of
gray, and in fawn, for war with dainty
tailleurs, and in darker shades and in
black for general wear. Some of them
have little frills on the wrist in con
trasting color, navy blue frills, for in
stance, orw tan gloves, black frills on
white gloves, and so on.
An excellent style, both smart and
conservative, is represented by gloves
of white silk with black embroidery
on the backs and a bracelet band of
black silk at the wrist. The buttons
also are black. One and two-button
gloves will be fashionable this Spring,
since sleeves are so long, and silk
gloves will be cn regie with even the
most elaborate and formal costumes.
Things Worth Knowing
MILITARY photographs of the ene
my's position are now made by
means of a camera carried aloft on a
huge skyrocket.
The uses of whaie oil. are more nu
merous at the present time than ever
before. " f
One man in 203 is six feet high.
If you count the number of times
the letter "a" is used in a book, you
will find the average to be less than
one in a thousand.
The true shape of the earth still
awaits accurate determination.
A recent invention provides an um
brella frame or skeleton and any suit
able number of interchangeable covers
therefor, whereby a new cover may be
substituted for an old, worn or dam
aged one, or a cover of one color or
figure may be substituted for another,
according to the costume of a lady
carrying the same. '
A dinner table around the earth 16
times would be required if the inhabit
ants of the world sat down at' a meal
together.
With less than half of her available
farming land utilized, the United States
produces one-sixth of the world's
wheat, four-ninth of its corn, one
fourth of its oats, one-eighth, of its
cattle, one-third of its hogs and one
twelfth of its sheep.
Scarletina is difficult to control, as
its cause is unknown, and mild cases
may occur which are almost impossible
of detection, but which serves as a
focus for further spread of the disease.
The bootblack business is now fol
lowed by the blind. When you take a
seat in the chair it is only necessary
to tell the attendant whether your shoes
are black or tan.
The charts of the coast and geodetic
survey will be publicly displayed at the
leading postofflces of the country to
get persons familiar with their use.
Sheep used as beasts of burden in
Northern India carry loads of 20
pounds.
Pacific island of Midway is import
ing shiploads of soil in order to pro
duce land capable of feeding cattle.
.Laundry Helps Given.
To have your clothes just as clean
and white as possible, put a teaspon
ful of peroxide in your soaking water.
This acts as a harmless bleach to your
linen. A slice of lemon in your boiler
will also have the same effect.
When blueing clothes add just a lit
tle common table salt in the water. It
helps to distribute the blueing and pre
vents the clothes from looking streaked
or patched.
How many have heard the old legend,
"The girl whose apron is wet, 'tis said,
while she's over a tub, will never be
wed?" Fortunately, this catastrophe
may be easily prevented by wrapping
gave 21 concerts in the subscription
series, five gala concerts in Carnegie
Hall, and the same orchestra and its
conductor presented the six Carnegie
Hall concerts in the young people's
course. Mr. Damroscti also gave more
attention to the American composers
than he has done heretofore.
Among the important works heard
by his orchestra may bo mentioned
John A. Carpenter's suite, "Advftnturefi
in a Perambulator," a symphony by
Victor Kolar. one of the first violins
of the orchestra, a pupil of Dvorak:
Daniel Gregory Mason's "Pageant oT
Cape Cod" music, and David Stanley
Smith's lovely overture. "Prince Hal."
Among the novelties which were re
ceived with the most enthusiasm may
be mentioned Mr. Damrosch's own
music composed for Margaret Anglin's
productions of Greek drama in the
open air theater of Berkeley. This
music presented by the orchestra
brought into requisition the contralto
Merle Alcock. who sang the same num
bers at the Greek Theater, as she did
in Aeolian Hall this Winter. Mr.
Damrosch only presented in New York,
however, excerpts from "Iphigenia in
Aulis," and not the music which he
wrote also for "Media."
From foreign sources Mr. Damrosch's
novelties Included Schoenberg's "Kam
mersinfonie," excerpts from Ravel's
"Pantomime Ballet," "Daphnls et
Chloe," a ' suite from Bruneau's
"L'Attaque du Moulin," Florent
Schmidtt's "Pupazzi" and two ex
quisite mood pictures by Delius, en
titled "Summer Night on. the River"
and "On Hearing the First Cuckoo."
Another equally important offering
made by Mr. Damrosch through the
medium of Marcia Van Dresser was a
set of Gustav Mahler's songs with or
chestra, unquestionably among the
most beautiful offerings on any con
cert stage this season.
The Boston Symphony Orchestra gave
its usual ten concerts, its only new of
fering having been Ernest Schelling's
"Impressions From an Artist's Life"
for piano and orchestra with the com
poser at the piano.
The Russian Symphony Orchestra of
which organization the reason of being
Is to present novelties by Russian com
posers, gave four subscription concerts,
and succeeded in bringing forward sev
eral interesting works, not previously
heard in this country. The principal
one of these was Strawinsky's "First
Symphony," a work surprisingly simple
for the expectations which had been
aroused for the contrary effects but
it must not be forgotten that this was
the "First Symphony" and the composer
underwent a decided change of heart
by the time he wrote the music pre
sented by the Diaghileff Russian dan
cers in "L'Oiseau de Feu."
Other novelties presented by air. Alt-
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Fashion Commends SIlkGIores.
4
an old newspaper over the top of the
washing board to absorb the water,
which otherwise would soak into her
dress.
The problems of quick laundering for
your crepe de chine waist may. be sim
plified by wrapping your waist, when
it is first washed, in a Turkish towel.
This absorbs the moisture quickly, but
leaves sufficient dampness for it to be
ironed easily.
White crepe de chine may be colored
to one's taste by soaking crepe paper
of the desired shade in water, using
the rsult as a dye.
Girdle Devices in Fashion.
Spring and Summer frocks will de
fine the natural waistline, and one
notes that there are many devices for
getting away from the conventional
girdle or belt. Skirts gathered in three
or four shirrings at the waist are for
slender figures only. These shirrings
are done in the French manner; long
stitches on the right side, tiny ones on
the wrong side, and the stitches care
fully p.nder each other in the shirrings.
This draws up the material in even
folds.
Report of Japanese Rice Crop.
Returns issued by the Japanese De
partment of Agriculture and Commerce,
as reported In the Japan Gazette, show
that the actual crop of rice In Japan
last year was 279,571,810 bushels, the
first and second estimates having been
285.031,000 and 278,505,125 bushels, re
spectively. The crops during recent
vears have been as follows, in bushels:
1910. 233,166.896; 1911. 258,562,665; 1912.
251,112.545: 1913. 251,276,335: 1914. 285.
031,010; 1915. 279,571.810.
To Trove She Could.
Life.
Astounded Mother Why. Tottie. you
never told me you had invited so many
children to this party!
Small IIostess--That's 'cause you said
that I could never keep a secret.
-Con-
schuler were six tableaux under the
name of "Exhibition Pictures" by
Mourssorgsky. a "Serbian Fantasy" by
Rimsky-Korsakof f. "Overture on Three
Grecian Themes" by Glazunoff. and the
conductor's own orchestral arrange
ment of Rachmaninoff's fantasia for
two pianos.
The People's Symphony Society un
der F. X. Arens, gave three orchestral
concerts in Carnegie Hall: at the Met
ropolitan Opera House thre were 19
orchestral concerts and the Minneapolis
Orchestra gave one of the most inter
esting contributions to the series.
The X'hiladelphia Orchestra under its
conductor Leopold Stokovski, will come
lo the Metropolitan Opera House to
present Mahler's herculean work, which
has been given now in Philadelphia a
number of times. The soloists will b
the same as those who presented it at
its first performance in Philadelphia.
In addition to these concerts by pro
fessional orchestras, Arnold Volpe has
shown remarkable results with his
young men who gave one public con
cert at Aeolian Hall. This organization
known as the "Young Men's Symphony
Society," was founded by the late Al
fred Seligman, and it Is kept alive by a
bequest from the great philanthropist.
Carmen Closes Season.
New York's last week of opera at the
Metropolitan included two perform
ances of "Carmen," to give Miss Farrar
her complete list of appearances. She
also was heard in a special matinee of
"Madame Butterfly" with Botta as
Pinkerton and De Luca as Sharpess.
Wagner had two representations. The
first was "DasRaeingold," with Mine.'
Kurt and the closing performance,
"Siegfried" with Mme. Gadski. Mme.
Barrientos was heard with Caruso and
Ahato in . "Rigoletto," while the cast
was further distinguished by Mme.
Homer as Maddalena.
The Metropolitan Opera Company
with its orchestra and entire force go
to Boston for the next four weeks,
while the opera house in New York will
be given over to the Diaghileff Ballet
Russe.
A great event of the week was the
first appearance in song recital of
Emmy Destinn. It must be admitted
that there was much speculation as to
how great a success the noted opera
singer would be in the recital field and
it is due Mme. Destinn to say that she
acquitted herself in a masterly manner.
Heis is one of the most beautiful voices
of the stage, indeed it would be differ
cult to realize anything more beautiful
than the purity of her high floating
tones. Long before Mme. Destinn was
actually known in this country, her
reputation as writer, painter, pianist
and singer had reached these shores.
When she became a favorite at the
Metropolitan these qualities were over-
HEALTHTC0M F0 RT B EAUTV
A good friend has set us
to thinking. She said:
"Your Wonder lift ads remind aw
of patent medicines."
Which means that our
ads have given her the
idea that the Wonderlift is
a sick woman's corset.
Probably that's our fault
we may have said too
much about the marvelous
health features when, in
reality, the Wonderlift is
quite as remarkable as a
style corset.
Here's the fact:
The very features
that make Nemo "Won
derlift Corsets so
healthful also mould
the figure into perfect
fashion-lines.
No. 555
For instance:
1. The Wonderlift Bandlet pro
motes health by giving perfect
physical support. It also prevent!
the corset from riding tip and
twisting, thus preserving smooth,
fashionable lines.
2. It reshapes and reduces a
too-full figure, and builds up and
rounds out a too-slim figure. In
other words, it corrects natural
figare-defects; insures comfort.
3. The Nemo "firidge" assures
freedom from pressure overgastrio
region, promotes free breathing
and good d i ges tion , i. e.: HEAL TH
It also induces an erect, grace'
fal, fashionable pose, without
which real STYLE is impossible.
EMPHATICALLY
th Nemo Wonderlift IS a
S r YLE Corset of the high
est class, and it is MADE
SO by its wonderful
HYGIENIC FEATURES
There's one Wonderlift model
for very slim figures with sharp hip
bones and concave abdomen No.
557, at $5.00.
Another for the biggest women,
with rolls of flesh all over No.
998, at $10.00. This is the only
corset of i ts kind ever made.
Then there are other models,
not so extreme:
554 for short stout women S5.0O
555 lor tsller full figures $5.00
556 for slender to medium $5.00
10OO model de luarr. of lustrous
brocsde. for average full figurea $10.
We confidently re
peat this prediction:
In due time, nearly
every woman who
wears a corset will
wear a Nemo Won
derlift. NEMO SELF-REDUCING
$3.50, $4, $5, up to $10
NEMO MILITARY-BELT
For the Slender $3.50
GOOD STORES EVERYWHERE
Viait the Permanent
NEMO EXPOSITION
NEW GARDEN PIER
Atlantic City. N. J.
Num Hnieaic-FaaliiaB laititote. New Tark
looked, but as she appeared on a recital
platform devoid of stage accessories,
make-up and costume, she radiated all
the big brain power which has made
her the unique figure that she Is and.
she gave the sort of a recital which
can only be given by a great artist.
FRECKLE-FACE
Sun and Wind IlrinK Out I Kly Spotn.
How to Hrmore Kaslly.
Here's a chance. Miss Freckle-Face,
to try a remedy for freckles with the
guarantee of a reliable dealer that it
will not cost you a penny unless it
removes the freckles: while if it does
give you a clear complexion the ex
pense is trifling.
Simply get an ounce of othine dou
ble strength from any druggist and a
few applications should show you how
easy it is to rid yourself of the homely
freckles and get a beautiful complex
ion. Rarely Is more than one ounce
needed for the worst case.
Be sure to ask the druggist for the
double-strength othine, as this is the
prescription sold under guarantee of
money back if It falls to remove
freckles.