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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Dec. 26, 1915)
n tin; sun.vY orecoxiax. portjlaxt. decembei. gc. mis. 1 1 with which most of them are , I FROCK OF SILK WITH TRIMMING OF VELVET IS FRESH, NEW AND DAINTY On c;stlkrr4 Skirt at Back and Front Ar Dnp Band f Mirtwn Thai Disappear at Side Under Draprriea in New tala. Effect "VUitiag Netcue- Fashioned in Japanese Kimono Effect. r 1 pv j . .:- -As' - ; . W - v - 7 ' " -V. j - v vfe J IM r X :; ' ;V A y- v v; ,: A y f v fNL :": r ' U Vi I - " ' ' . V 5 .. : i i ' - y - - - ni V' ii i i.trr ! 1 'A ; ' 1 . ! r :V mn4 fra a4 tfalaly U lal I,rt; frtK-k f color! pur !:. with trlmralac of Warot !(. tb Iwo hU br romiigf a'imtrsbty. Tfco thr4 I hp4 clrtjr lor h I ti an4 lara4-ap, aofl eaT r in tt. rn lh thr-4 '.rt at Bark aad f-ont r dt bn-l vf maroon tL lick d..Mppar al Iho pMao Bt4r 4fprf la a aw win fforl for all d'ar'"! row mpr.Il to wMth of t fliur., front aa4 tacK line bola tatnar Tat. Inline helIlT wk InMl of tfe rt r!n for tao d'bataat t. ai4 tftf ou.o partr wind t wll a dni;o. Ttl aUurta fro- a aa Jot omy!ot. Tr war al Tuwdi. Oor fill pttl'-oat of mbrol-4r4 t l toor'l a a wiriona aklrt of ia pur wit:w ta(Tta printed w it ptak ro- TK kojiew l of pt'a Muo lfT-t la matirk an I Iho mK. with II 4nc Iin inp) trmr. I of ro piak ie. T&o ahirt I aouat4 ovor r' vink i!k ! to bodies, with It air:rh Uc b rt n . I or hout- 4r anj arm by trn.l pf peart. l:vry aoRul r kr lfvUt ) for ta bo;iHr koaw-M'tr. ant tri n'W mil from ljoin Wkttmiw pni i trpial of th lborato -Tt.itin BltC.' Tbi Bliu M fninat In Jdbo klmonw fFl. Tti ntjtriAl wa :wrti cropo bro .l-4 ta !! with linio of puT wi low tn a Ruttc&iBc too Tbo br PANTALETTE BECOMING VOGUE FOR SPORT WEAR Skirt I !! Torki.h Carairat. llrrp( Whra NVrarrr la Walking or Ska tin if. VrNrt aaJ Far I'ord Abundaatly o Winter Govna. EXI-LT In lb Ibo panta lrtt 'l w br4iM oir from Vxtit. nl ntn lhn ral a4ptatton ha b-a ton about Nw lor Ik t b'l4l l took If th .trtrwn wnrnaa misbl ra!ljr brine fcr!f , cunHT th Turkish tnur. A lntrttn ao4l a a fouBdj t inq Klip roroprt4lnc a bloujM. cut In oft- witl pntct. Tbo nilrl I brkk-lrl oatio. If tbl I u th (ktrt f Biiln'cht blu bro4-lo(n. trdr! with BBlural mt.rt. Tbo bm of tbo oklrt I n ilti'W aboo th fur bjr trtrro band of njtrkin atltcblric dun la lb color f ta btouaw. Tho coat U a fcair-l'ntrth Bowt with Inline lin and It. Ion. ha th border of hahi for. Tbo bleb collar ! fcd with -lt of a brlrk Ion., and tft l ir. f tha rli with a fur adema. Tb biirnr ar not ltM oacp( wbn the warr la wa.klr and Ibo aklrt ln fra (mm too flur. W h-n tha aklrt and coal aro r noi d ih wrr awr onadr that baa a allo r'nBt mir wM h aa ajaay ir a raiffoa or tiaart robo. or. If aka doa aot car for that. Ih bloRr alio la compl'to In ltalf tor booJuir wear. :ola lltybaw AaVwof I daw. rVhr mpl of lb pxntalatl anrl- ahaw th aklrt with tha haw f ' tur attarha lo Ih band aftar Ih riur of ta old-Urn patticowl. ft coura. enlf aitra womaa wilt b UkalT l 4pt t&la trac-Turklh carraant: bul ar!r arr aauaual afjla ba ant adr crttiLn at ftral and. fia"y. It baa b-t takaa up b all If of f.mlnlniCT vntil. la tba lnurw of llm. It baenrnaa a atandard. r aa-nlna- war tbara aro a, at.it B-owa drapad lo a climsa of ifinut lrtHir. Tb wndrful ma -lartAia wMa reaip lha iawu and tha rultl'a Maaa on wMi-h tha ar butli anak than arraptabia aaa to aaai. f conaaraatlw I'. Hltn, howavar. tha tlfnlRf draw I mf maliti'". pllltt t or othar rapranl lrll. It mouatad a paitto-oait of .tin ar taff'ta. Th projalod akatina f4 ha hroafhl abuul oma lntrtln and whathar ah adopt th Wlntar aport of lloliand or pr.fr lo contlnu a dvwca of Tarpatrhur. la aum lotanr Ih new dra ar mad of her chiffon crap thai partly conraala and partljr ravaal th Back, th ahouldara and th lrea. aka II la a. Ww Aro Lwwat. Of eoura. tha hack ar hlK and th ! ar lona. which tndicat lb' ar for dyllma uo: and. Ilk wia. thai th akalrr will not nr eta thai aport In h opo, bul will ba a palrvn o( on or mor vf th Indoor rink. :id thw aoml-dlaphanou ma tariai. thcr ar any number of broadcloth codt-drcaaea In whit and la awatel lonaa. trimmed with fur and ploltlna remarkably atmpl atyl that ar condu- to youthful flicur r f -fi-cta. IHom of th. for Inatanca, ar oaptc affair, faatanad down tha front with aalf-button and with a bait of lathr. of fur or of Ih cloth. pod al th normal lln and drawn to rlhr with a matal buckle. Th fur wvay b natural raccoon, nat ural mukral. molaakin. baar or Mudaon eeal. and aaually It la arranged In border ft or I about Ih hra of Ih aklrt and compl! th neck and the alee. Th (marital model ha Ih aktrt aot lea than It Inch from th around. Incidentally. Ih bootmaker ban provided ahoea of oxasa-eraled balcht ao that lhr may bo no blatua between aklrt hem and Ih hoa top. Kver ao much elet and Velveteen enter Into the achame ok Ih akallnc rotum. .:rh. of coura. la vary popular, bul It by no moan baa tb (laid to lt-If. On of Ih moat-liked roior I ruby, which I onitime kaown a crubed blackberry, dahlia or p-iunia. Then thr la tha richer red wbarh ba baa dub bad OaMbaldl. In compl t rn.nl lo Italy" baro of a former war. All th ahade of red lnd themele admirably to fur application, whether th laltr ba yellow fo. whit coney, black lyns. vray krtmmer or aal. tne aa !-! Ih fur aocordin to her color preference and al.o trrnnHnr lo whether her ficur bo youihrul ot omawhal mature. Another fabric that la la trrroendou evidence wherever aporf -arrarnli are exploited la etocklnceit or wool Jery cloth. Ilecenl example of that fabric how It with a aort of ansora flnlah. which rather relieve It of the proaalc and utilitarian auitcratlon aaaoclaled with It In paat yeare. Th color, too. have expanded to In clude unuxial nuancca. auch a reaeda ureen. Itaf red. tobacco brown and varloua yellow tone. Whit atockln elte I very popular. prcUlly when trimmed with dark fur. Hawaii Hal Areawyaalea. With aurh roilumn th mall hat 1 worn. It I pcrmlaaibl to have a fly away win-, a Jaunty quill or a fur pompon by way of ornamentation. All th hat ar flat and low. aome of tbm elliptical, while other ar at- t round and poard on the head Ilk an Inverted bowl. For the moat part they ar compoaed of velvet or of fur. matchlnc tbal which trim Ih co lume. To wear with the akaMn suit, there r wool or allk bloomer that are more comfortable than Ih uaual petti coat. Home of th bloomer ar In kna lencth. while other are faahlnned with th Idea of reachlnrx almoat to th eda of th klrt. The elastic band with which most of them are finished permit tha lenRth adjustment. so that the wearer can suit herseit. AIo. to wear with the skating- suit, there I much to commend the annora acarf with It matching cap. There are beautiful example of these, made of white wool with applique roses or other floral motifs decorating the ends of the scarf and one side of the cap. Quit new Is the scarf hat. which is a toque affair with a Ions streamer end knitted In one with It, and of length sufficient to wind one or twice about th neck. Veil laaportaat This Year. Then there 1 the Important matter of th Yell, and vary Important it Is. Indeed, this year. The voirue Just now Is to drape or shirr the veil around the hat crown and allow It to fall loose about Ih face and shoulders, or to throw It back over the hat and away from the face so that It falls In draped fold down the shoulders in back. Kor sport wear chiffon veil are used much In lh same way as the made-lace veil. The smartest of these chiffon veils ar very Ions: and have blir velvet spots used for borders or are of emerald a-reen. purple or black stripes on a neutral around. They are arranged o that the chiffon fold eoftly over the hat crown and la leath ered Into a knot at the back of the head from which tha two long- ends fall below the waist. Millinery Modes Demand Hair Be Coiled Softly. 9aaall ( rwwna of llala Cilve Woman r Meant Hair Advantaae la Art of llala; Kaahlonable. VISITING FOREIGNERS DIVIDE PUBLIC ATTENTION WITH PROMINENT WOMEN Belgian Chevalier's Wifj Corrects Imprisonment Story France Decorates American Sculptor Heirs Settle Post Estate Mrs. Brand Whitlock Will Return to Europe Mrs. Jay Gould . Wears Striking Dress. A LX. arrangement of the hair, thcae XI days, must bo soft, without Inter llnlnas so to speak ot artificial na ture. In order that the hat may fit on the head. A hat of two or three sea aon ago. with larg headalxe and crown, would tumble down now and eclipae its wearer for women's neadi have become arnaxingly small. All tM Winter hats have rather small crowns, no matter what the width of brir.i. or height of the millinery model. On clli r women they fit down around the head In mere becoming manner It all dc- penda on the amount of hair under the hat. The woman who has been warinir a coronet braid, or an ordinary switch twirled into a figure eight or a psyche knot, finds the problem easy enough ah merely leaves off her false hair and .does ber own locks In me new French twist style pinned closely to her head. But the woman with na turally long, thick hair is in aoniewhat of a quandary. What to do with the hair la a question. I'lled on top of the head It makes a lump over which the low-crrywned sailor of the moment wlil not fit: colled at the neck. It Interferes uncomfortably with the choker neck wear of the season: arranged In Creek knot at the crown, it makes tne head-aize of the hat ao lixht that in half an hour there resulta a dull n-.il- ache caused by constriction over the forehead. The only answer Is to do the hair softly and locsely. Instead of In any compact twist, coll or wad: so loosely and softly, that when the hat is donned the hnlr will crush down 'iidrr It without discomfort. And the re.-ret of doinr ti hair thus loosely, ant! having It look presentable when t.ie hat la removed. Is to keep It exquisitely groomed. That means a shampos at least one In ten days, careful brush ing every night If It Is naturally wavy, or nightly manipulation of the scalp if the hair Is straight and must he curled artificially. A ninrcel ware costs about "i cents and in this weather should taat almost a week If the hair Is covered with a thin silk cap at night. A little balr. marcelled, will go a long way In making a becoming and modish coiffure. Carry Saner. Tkl. I. .1.. lih anr .1 . 1 i r' a I . meat j flh or can be poured over boiled rice ror a side dish. 1'ui two taoiespoons or knii-p In a iiptnin then atir Into It Iwo lablespoonf uls of flour. Add a scant tablespoonf ul of curry powder and a teaspoonful bf onion Juice and cook a mom.ni ne two but do not allow them to brown. Htir in gradually on cup of milk and coon umu pihwih mu ivn ened. Add a cup of cream, season with salt and Jut before serving add, if you like, a hard-oonea egg cnoop-u .inc. GIFT OPERA BAGS NOW ELABORATE AFFAIRS Rich and Attractive Deairna Are Offered in Shops and Are Beaufiful Enough to Meet Mot Exacting Woman's Tastes. - . ra -iff v t il -J T? - .i7 -. Jl i f2. Jt ' i "vi. V v. v : -' m:w nrimt na exclvsitb affaiki. THAT Santa Clau go on giving opera beg la proved beyond per adirnture by the number of the dainty belonging ranged In the shop windows the day, aid by aid with pearl-bandied lorgnettes. Jcwel-aet rbala and fan of exquUit dealgn. Tb opera bag I an Indlapenaab! ft era in th eomplt evening toilette, and ome of Ihes bags are marvelous af fair, running up Into high sums. Moat dlraMe In lyl and sl.apa I that I rich and bandma wllhout being too gaudy to plea the woman of critical taatc, Th bag lUelf I mad of pussy-willow silk In an en chanting whad of melon pink and over the upper portion la coarae gold net, attached to the melon-pink silk under gold luce which points downward In three places, almost to the bottom of the bag. Above, the shirred casing In which Is run the gold cord that forms the long handles Is a puff of the gold net. then an edge of gold lace, then an Inner frill of emm white lace, attached to tha bag's lining of daffodil satin. The bag I shirred at the bottom to a gold brsld-covered hoop of wood In which is fastened, also by means of sold braid, a circular mirror. a r v '4". i:,- ' g e- . " 'I IJ'; aWW - . .JT "ly-. , jr,rt ( Jh .;. f. v ' r -. w f IfiWI IX ' i :. s ,?L ' tun. ' 1S ! --it j:--,- -a . J Urs p Close. Tlj7iz Carton dz JVi&rJ:. Jinmt JSczvz JJz3--fcL , ' .1 f .v JT . a-' f - v ww" i S ' r- k ya" jf f f L;, - I I .:-"'--.::r:-; .. I - - J, ' - M11K. CAKTOX lli WIAHT. wife of Chevalier Carton de Wiart, who arrived recently as a member of the Belgian delegation come to study Industrial conditions in the United States, wants to correct ' the report which became current before her ar rival that she was imprisoned by the German for S months. The lime Carton de Wiart who was imprisoned was the wife of the Minister of Justice, and the sister-in-law of Chevalier Car ton de Wiart The Chevalier's wife has been with him through the vicissi tudes of the war and the luxuries of life in America are very grateful to her. She will have a great deal of social attention in New York and Washington and will visit other large cities of the Kast. a a Anna Vaughn Hyatt is an American JYjT 23jT(3J2cZ sculptor who has Just received from the French government the rosette of merit. It was conferred by Ambassa dor Jusserand at the time of the un veiling of Miss Hyatt's statue of Joan of Arc in New York City. It is announced that Mrs. E. B. Close, daughter of the late C. V. Post, has compromised her stepmother's claim to the estate, which through a legal tech nicality was awarded to her by th courts. The amount paid Mrs. Post is said to be 6, 000. 000. a Mrs. Brand Whitlock. who has been with her husband in Belgium through the trying times of the war and Its occupation by the Germans, is now in the United States, but expects to re- turn with her husband to Belgium in a month. She was Miss Klla Brainerd. of Springfield, 111. a Mrs. Jay 'Gould was one of the strik ingly good-looking guests at a recent wedding-. She wore a costume that effectively brought out her brunette Hawaiian beauty and she was gener ously admired. She posed for a photo graph in her attractive dress and cop ies of the picture have been greatly in demand. The tiniest uob exhibited at the Toy Dog Society's show in New York in October was "Empress Baby," a black-and-tan fiva inches long, owned by Mary Kmpress. a well-known "movie" actress. He too the olue ribbon in his class. SOCIETY MAKES COUNTRY VISITS FOR HOLIDAY WEEK HOUSE PARTIES Costume Details Are Important-Skating and Sport Clothes Are First Requisite-Dance Frock for Christmas Is Necessity and Ethereal Styles Are Vogue Motor Coat, Afternoon Frock and Filmy Negligee Required. SOCIETY, so soon to lane wins, southward, delays its flight a little, -ift-r immediate Christmas festivi- u. -.a over in lend the grace of its presence at. various out-of-town house parties, always an important part of midwinter entertaining. Every hostess who has a large house In the country finds the holiday week house party a pleasant way to pay off scores In the entertaining line. When the house is luxurious ana me couui.j roundabout funnlshes plenty of the Bort of soorts society adores, there is no dif ficulty bringing together as many- guests as the menage win dau. the difficulty is to cut flown me ist of iliglbles who would liKe to oe asked. .... For skating during noiiaay wees. . i . .i.l lliil. nnoln nt A there is a ueiecmuie . which combines a short, very short skirt of green velvet and a coat of white glazed kid. also rather short and trimmed with strappings of the kid and flat while buttons. The skating boots are of white kid, also, and a . i . . .. valwr la tier! peray nine iij' " i e " - around with a white glazed kid ribbon tied In a bow at the front. A black fox muff accompanies this delightful llllio SKaiios vu.i.-...-. On the Ice at the Hippodrome will be Worn a SKiri OI Blum o"u .o...B- Short enOUgn lo auow lull enowo, of black leather with bands of black fur at the top. The coat, of tan glazed kid. is trimmed with red fox collar and cutis. ao tumio leCt Ol tniS BUIl 1 1 1 ' l JB BABUUS -" of brick red velvet banded with red lox. Dancing Dreaaea Are Ethereal. 1 IH IM I II K I"" " 1 " .. -. j parly are a most Important considera tion, XOr ail BUCn BillucllllKH mil v with a dance, usually a dinner-dance, to which the young people at neighbor ing house parties are uiuucu. ethereal are the new Winter dance rrocKS mat iv ci.-w .toiib . - that they can be packed in a trunk wltnoul ruinous enni in mmr i.,.. draperle. but the modern lady' maid 1I..U...I ...... L. a unit ha IS an BCrOIIlOlinoeu uuirvi knows Ju.-t how to fold the lovely frock In a box between layers and layers or tissue paper, so that It emerges crisp and dainty, ready for wear the moment the trunk is opened. Some of the Christmas week dartce dresses are of lustrous, soft silk draped up in the blancheuse, or "washer woman' manner over petticoats of lace, or of chiffon or net veiling pastel tinted satin. Other models follow the Vic torian style with over-lapping tiers of lace ruffles all the way up the skirt to a girlish sash. But whatever the individual style of the frock its silhouette must show a widely spreading skirt stopping short of the ankle. and a close little bodice showing the arms if not all of the neck and shoulders. The debutante has a more modest decolletage than the young married woman, or the girl in her third season who may wear a girdle of draped silk, caught up over the bust in front and a few inches above the waistline at the back by strands of beads which presumably hold this apology for a bodice from falling entirely off. Hoop la Vaed. At the waistline there is apt to be a narrow boned girdle of crinoline and featherbone. which holds the frock in to the curve of the figure, giving the slim-waisted effect now fashionable and nine dance skirts out of ten own to a hoop, small and unobtrusive and set Just below the hips, or of ample size, distending the edge of the frock. A charming color combination, noted in several new dance frocks for the mldseason, is pale pink, pale blue and pale lilac. A lovely little frock of this type has a skirt of silver-threaded lace over faint pink satin debutante. The skirt gathers into a fitted and evidently boned girdle of pale blue satin, and long strips of lilac tulle draped over the shoulders, pass under the girdle and down the skirt to the hem. These Btrips are crushed together into almost no width at all at the girdle, but a yard-wide strip Is tacked together at the edge of the skirt, over the silver lace petticoat. A posy of rosebuds, forfc-et-me-nots and violets, focuses the color scheme at the corsage. Other Cowtamea Are Needed. Other costumes besides a skating i. A . K Anm'A f i-tn At ta'ill I . a rs. u i l mm me ii " . in quired to see milady through a fash ionable noiiaay ween iiuuoo yai ijr mi one thing, a warm coat, fur-lined and collared for motoring, and appropriate costumes for the morning and after noon. In the morning sport togs will be the rule warm. Ehort skirt of wool or corduroy with tailored blouses of silk. ' and a smartly cut sport coat suitable for golf and tramping. Kor indoor wear, bridge and tea-hour, there must be a dainty frock or two of silk and chiffon, or' of silk and cloth with pretty, high-heeled clippers or the daintiest of buttoned footwear to match. Such a frock will be smartly simple in style, and will doubtless have chif fon sleeves and some new sort of skirt drapery, perhaps the incoming wing style with stiffening beneath. And not least Important is the becoming negli gee for boudoir gossips, the very pret tiest and most luxurious negligee one can secure, of filmy lace or chiffon over silk and gaily trimmed with ribbons, silver tassels or tiny rosebuds. Glass Buttons. Metallic effects in laces and braids are causing much comment and admira tion, but not any more so than the at tractive buttons of metal. They may be of gold, silver or gunmetal. They ' may be purchased as small as a pea or as large as a silver dollar. Buttons of glass are very popular. The buttons made to produce spangled effects de serve particular mention. These can be procured in a variety of color combina used in connection with the spangled bands, ornaments and othec trimmings so much in vogue just now. Other glass buttons are ornamented with narrow bands of silver, which are visible be neath the glassy surface. Carrots. Cut a number of scraped carrots in halves lengthwise and boil them in salted water. When they are tender take them out of the water, drain and place in a stewpan with a lump of but ter, some chopped parsley-, pepper, salt and sugar and squeeze the juice of a lemon over them. Toss about over a moderate lire for a few minutes and serve on a hot dish. A