Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Oct. 10, 1915)
THE SUNDAY OEEGONIAX, PORTLAND, OCTOBER lO, 1915. NOVELTIES IN EVENING GOWNS ARE 5 APPEARING FROM BEST COUTQURIERS Blue and Green Net Over Silver Cloth Produces Colors of Fly, Which Effect Is Emphasized by Having Butterfly Motif in Jet and Crystal Bead Em pieced in Girdle Hoops and Trains Also Noted. ffK C 7 J; ' tcfn Jit - ? X A ,rW - sw-S X ' r I , v -i y Pi ,'1 ! i liS'illi a mijij. mum ijomiiiiii njj ym m iiiul. " j 1 i , 1 . 1 t y : il L ' rl V 1 1 f 1 if N : tevh Vi r ! BLUB and green net over silver cloth produce an unusually beau tiful effect for evening wear. The blue, green and silver colors of the darting fly are emphasized by a girdle empiecement in jet and crystal beads, in which is wrought a butter fly motif. In the skirt, the blue and firreen nets are combined in long, dove tailed points set together with threads of -silver. The draped sleeve, half cov ering yet revealing the upper arm, Js an especially graceful feature of this costume. Hoops have made their appearance for the coming Winter and lo, here Is the bustle also. Under the bouffant drapery at the back is an actual bustle arrangement of light featherbone and the trim, long basque is boned at the Bides. The frock is of black pussy willow taffeta vailed with black tulle and below the square decolletage is a. V-shaped vest of flesh tinted silk veiled with the tulle. Jet beads edge the floating tulle sleeves and jet trimming is placed across the back of the sash and at the lower edge of the basque. Here and there among the short 4ance frocks of Autumn are to be noted graceful costumes that introduce the train one of the most beautiful fea tures of feminine dress. From an au thoritative couturier comes a classic reception gown of dull blue crepe em broidered in dull and bright silver threads. The material is skilfully draped over a close slip of white gol denrod satin and a low girdle of blue and jet beads holds the soft crepe to the figure above the clinging yet flow ing lines of skirt and train. Paris, in her sentiment of somberness, decrees that arms shall be veiled this year. That the amount of veiling is not ar kitrary is proved by these gauzy sleeves of blue net. Handmade Cretonne Desk Set Is Pretty. tilrl With Mmble KlnKrrs Can Mnke Ideal Christmas lreacnt for Some Friend. A PRETTY cretonne desk set may be made by the girl who is nimble with her fingers, and will be an ideal Christinas present for some friend who takes pride in her well-appointed bou doir. The desk set includes a deskpad with cretonne-covered corners, a cre tonne-covered rack for stationery, or for letters already opened, a cretonne-cov ered memorandum or address book and a cretonne-backed blotter. The ink well mui. be of metal or glass and can be purchased in some dainty design that seems to harmonize with the desk set. To make the deskpad. cut a large oblong of cardboard and cover one side of it with cretonne, turning in the cor ners neatly and pasting with library paste. Set this under heavy weights ana proceea to maKe the corner sec tions, each of pasteboard in triangle die, covered with the cretonne. A piece of blotting paper is to be pasted on the reverse side of the large card board; then the four corners of cre tonne will be pasted down on the blot ting pad. The memorandum book is an ordi nary DianKDooK provided with a cre tonne slip-cover. The blotter is made of several sheets of. blotting paper, about six inches long by three inches wide, attached to a cardboard of equal size, covered with cretonne on one side and blotting paper on the other. Bore a hole through this strip of covered cardboard and tie blotters to it. They may be pulled off as clean blotters are required. The rack for stationery is made of pieces of cardboard, covered with cretonne and then attached to gether. The back may be nine inches wide and seven inches high, the front nine Inches long and four inches high. Klde pieces will be four inches high and an Inch wide, botton piece nine inches long and an inch wide, 7 cf 7n c -Z?ve.r3s 'nr Go ts7 4 pea in WOMEN TAKEN TO TASK FOR NOT AIDING TALK Some of Kindest Hostesses Almost Forget to Attend Conversation While Planning Creature Comfort. stories, but always with one eye oa his plate. Just &s we were all eagerly listening for the most enthralling bit of one adventure came an interrnuption from our hostess, who addressed her, husband reproachfully across the table: "John, you're neglecting Mr. Blank. I'm sure he would take a little more meat if you asked him." Then, after the recital of a little story to which, I thought, she had seemed to listen with some interest, she murmured, absently: "Yes.' very nice, wasn't it?" And then, with fervor: "But do let me persuade you to have some, fruit!" It really was amusing to watch the face of that poor missionary. I did so wish it had been possible to take aside my hostess one of the kindest women who ever breathed and tell her that the dear, good than would be infinitely happier if she'd only allow him to eat less and talk more. , It's a good thing to have a passion for the truth, but a hostess may make her guests feel uncomfortable If she gets into the habit of correcting each slight inaccuracy that crops up in the little stories told by members of her family and friends. , A house I know, where live three charming sisters, is quite given over to this habit. Two of the sisters are widows and have married daughters who often visit this home with their children. The guests at their table often find themselves feeling distressed and uncomfortable, for the conversa tion is punctuated by corrections in terposed by one sister and another in the interest of truth. For instance, we are quite carried away by a description of a country walk given by one of the daughters. It is almost possible to see the wonderful, purple haze of the bluebells In the dis tance and to glory in the golden splendor of the landscape when sud denly comes Aunt Mary's gentle inter ruption: 'My dear, not Ave miles. I'm sure Harry said It was only -three to the corner of the wood." This habit of putting people right is an annoying one and should be avoided sedulously by the tactful hostess. The friends gathered round our table want to hear the little story; they don't really care when it happened or just how far away the scene was set. Rose Leaf Slumber Pillow Is Joy Forever. Head Rent, Packed With Frixrint Petals, Will Ilrina Peaceful Slumber, BY HELEN CALVERT. SOME of the kindest and best of women are so occupied with plan ning for creature comfort they almost forget to attend to conversa tion. This Inattention, however praise worthy its cause, is not flattering. I was once at table with a foreign missionary who was being entertained at Sunday dinner in the hospitable and kindly house where I was staying at the time. This missionary had traveled much and had many thrillingly exciting ana some amusing stories to tell us. but. our Hospitable hostess was anxious that her visitor should eat really good dinner. She enjoyed his CI LUMBER pillows, haven't you heard O of them? Why, they're just ordi nary pillows stuffed with rose leaves from the garden, and they will likely make the most hardened sufferer from insomnia sleep the sleep of childhood. Unless you dry the leaves this pillow keeps sweetly scented for only about a week, but if you want a truly exquisite one that will be a joy forever, gather the roses early in the morning on a dry day and strew the petals on a tray. Leave them In the full glare of the sunlight until they are entirely dry. then sprinkle with a little table salt and pack away in a jar. Cover and leave for 10 days, stirring well each morning. At the end of that time take one ounce each of cloves and allspice, coarsely ground, and the same amount of stick cinnamon, broken and shred ded fine. Transfer the petals to an other vase or jar and then mix in the spices. scattering them alternately among the layers of flowers. Cover the jar tightly, and let it stand in a dark place for about three weeks. Now for the last stage. Prepare a quarter of an ounce each mace, allspice and cloves, all coarsely 'ground and pounded in a mortar, half a grated nut meg, half an ounce of cinnamon, broken fine, one ounce of powdered orris root and a quarter of a pound of dried lav ender flowers. Mix all these well to gether, with the rose leaves. Now take your pillow case and stuff it with relays of cotton wool, sprin kling the rose leaf mixture thickly on each layer; when It is full sew up the end seam. You can make many other kinds of beauty pillows, using -appropriate ma terials for covers and filling them with any sweet-scented flower, such as clover, clove pinks, verbena, sweet- scented geranium, heliotrope or laven der. All of these flowers should be bruised slightly before being used as a filling. t or- the real potpourri just fill your jar with layers of rose leaves and the spice mixture alternately and add a few drops of oils, either rose, geranium or bitter almond. Then over the whole pour one ounce of cologne. Fashions Improve Greatly. It is only necessary to look back at any of the fashion plates which may happen still to survive, displaying the modes which prevailed last Summer, in order to realize this fact very clearly, and to congratulate ourselves upon the many changes for the better which are very evident in the fashions as they are being worn at the moment and as they are likely to prevail in the immediate futu re. Tiny Tots May Learn to Knit Dolly's Sweater. Task Will Be Quite to Fanoy of Young Girl and Would Relieve Her From lloredom. ANY little girl more than 7 years old may be taught to knit, and the homely accomplishment may relieve her from boredom many and many a time later in life. Here is a simple direction for making a knitted sweater for dolly a task that will be quite to the fancy of the youthful knitter. In cidentally, she will learn a good deal about knitting. Use one hank of Shetland wool in any pretty color and a pair of knitting needles, about No. 5 size. Cast on 20 stitches for the back of the sweater and knit 20 ribs. Then cast on 10 more stitches, knit across and cast on 10 at the opposite side. You have on the needle now, 40 stitches, which gives the width from sleeve edge to sleeve edge. When you have knit 10 ribs, the sleeves will be finished up as far as the shoul der line. About eight stitches may be bound off for the back of the neck. Eight stitches from the .40 on the needle leaves 32 stitches, so when you have knit half of the 32, or 16 stitches, bind off eight for the neck and con tinue to knit across the remaining IS stitches. You must now abandon work on the whole sweater and finish each front separately. To do this slip off the 16 stitches on the opposite side of the bound-off portion on a big safety pin and fasten securely. Take the empty needle and commence knitting where the end of your worsted Is. Knit as far as the bound-off place and back twice, which will give you two ribs for the shoulder. Now cast six stitches to make the front wide enough and knit across the 22 stitches for 10 rows. This completes the sleeve. Bind off under the sleeve for 10 stitches (the original number oyu cast on for the sleeve) and then knit across and across, straight down the front until the front is as long as the back. Finish the op posite front in the same way and sew up the underarm seams with a bit of worsted. Cuffs may be knitted on the sleeves if desired, and even a little collar added. Every Nemo is an extra value simply as a corset. For the hygienic features, which are priceless, you pay nothing extra WONDERLIFT Selelpforall wmen Self-Reducing FOR STOUT WOMEN 50 W Will Keep This Corset On Send the Old One Home!" CO say thousands of women when fitted in a -Self-Help" Nemo Wonderlift Corset They don't want to lose, even for a minute, the relief and supreme comfort this corset-marvel instantly gives; and that's the highest form of approval. Of the many thousands of women who got acquainted with the Wonderlift during last week's "Self-Help" Exposition, it is safe to say that nine out of ten will never be satisfied to wear any other corset. Nemo SELF-REDUCING Corsets, introduced nearly twenty years ago, have steadily gained in popularity, and now are worn by millions of women throughout the civilized world. The Nemo WONDERLIFT Corsets will also make a place of their own, furnishing a different service and appealing to other millions of women who do not require the Self-Reducing service. - There are basic differences between the Nemo WONDERLIFT Corsets and the Nemo SELF-REDUCING Corsets. Examples of each are pictured above. WONDERLIFT For women of every figure, from slight to extra-fall. The Wonderlift Bandlet wplifls, sup ports and holds in place the vital abdominal organs, thus preventing, relieving and often cur ing the ills peculiar to women. This corset is a distinct boon and blessing to all womankind. No. 555 For tall full figures; high, full bust and back; medium skirt. Fine white coutih sixes 24 to 36 SS.OO. No. 554 Same, but for abort fall fig-urea $5.00. No. 556 For slender figures and medium figures; sixes from 20 up. Of fine, light, strong coutil SS.OO. In Good Store EvmrywohmTK SELF-REDUCING Made expressly for stout women, to reduce the size and weight of the figure and support the abdomen. The Self-Reducing Idea has been de veloped into such a variety of models that every stout woman, no matter bow difficult her figure, can be correctly corseted. For example: No. 322 For average stout figures; medium bust and skirt; elastic Lasricurve Back. No. 326, same, for taller figure S3-50. No. 344 For full figure of medium height; has "invisible" Self-Reducing Straps. No. 345, same for taller full figure J 3-SO. Thm Nmo Hygienic- Famhion nartfore, Nmw York sifters, and underneath a pan closet, sanitary bread box and numerous other conveniences. The same cabinet with a nickel table top instead of enamel sells for 18.50. A vegetable cutter which is in turn a potato chipper or dicer, a cucumber or tomato slicer, a bread grater, a pastry cutter and a nutmeg grater costs 60 cents and comes in the shape of a hollow cylinder with grat ings of different kinds on various sides and a lid at one end which does the dicing. New Bronze Shade Popular. An addition to the host of lovelv tans and browns that are an evolution of the popular sand color is a new shade called bronze. This name hardly de scribes the color, which really seems to change its hue with each new color combination. It harmonizes equally well witn yenow or green: in fact. It has the advantage of artistic combination with almost any color and can be matched easily In silk, velvet and net. Here is something different for the woman who Is tired of usual colors. Early Hats Made of Plush. Hatter's plush is used in the early Autumn hat models. It is very pliable and thin and looks very much like satin at a little distance. A heavy satin hat is seen in a medium large sailor shape and in a mushroom shape that is turned up in the back somewhat like those that were so popular dur ing the Summer. A very shiny kid that looks a good deal like patent leather, only much more supple. Is also used, either as the hat covering or trimming. Small, long turban shapes and large drooping forms, both very much like those seen in the old Go dey's Lady Book of the '60s. are mod ernized just enough to take off the too old-fashioned air that they would have If copied direct. This brings back to stylo the fancy birds' plumage ornaments. LITTLE TRIMMING GOES LONG WAY IN FALL HAT Paris Sajs "Chapeau Is Decorated, Not Trimmed," and Smartness Is De cided by Shape and Material, Felt and Velour Being Popular. Kitchen Conveniences Offered. A convenient kitchen cabinet in a light oak finish is offered in the sales at one store for 22.50. It has shelved closets above, protected by doors and lined with enamel to match the top of the table part, which pulls out to a convenient width when in use.. It has glass bottles and jars, sugar and flour -a v - ' - 4 Hi 4 wis ; if Ve ...v. SOT MUCH TRIMMING, BIT THAT Jt'ST RIGHT. A LITTLE trimming goes a long way where the Fall hat Is con cerned. As Parts phrased it early in the sea son: "The Autumn hat is decorated, not trimmed." An apple, a plum, a bird, a tuft of ostrich, is all sufficient to add chic to milady's new chapeau. which depends for its chief claim to smartness on - its up-to-the-moment shape, and its manner of setting on the head. .e hat material also has a good deal to do with the matter. Felt and velour hats are coming in again and quite as many of these blocked models are seen now as draped hats made of velvet. One popular hat is a semi-tailored model of dark green velour with a cluster of mixed ostrich in shades of tan and. green at one side. New York's Municipal Library. Pittsburg Dispatch. There Is one library owned and man aged by the City of New York about which there is probably less known, outside of the circles of the legal pro fession and students of municipal af fairs, than any other library in that town. And this, curiously enough, in spite of the fact that the volumes on Us shelves are subpenaed in court more than the general public knows anything about. This institution is the city li brary, in the City Hall, and which has on its shelves 10.000 volumes. The of ficial reason for this library's being is to furnish a complete and official record of the municipal affairs and his tory of the City of New York. From the viewpoint of the bibliophile or the historian, the most valuable books in the library are the records of the town In the days when the Dutch ruled Man hattan, and it was known as New Am sterdam. The old Dutch records con sist of seven fat volumes, covering the period Detween 1647 and 1S74. Novelties in Pocket books. Pocketbooks of white kid, or of black and white kid. have come with the Autumn. The black and white pocket books present many novelties, but the all white bag, though perishable, is particularly lovely: especially with light-colored and white suits. The final artistic note is given to these pocket books by a lining of black and white stripped taffeta. Canning lYltlmut Cooking Rule Out. A genera rule for canning fruit without cooking is the following: Make a syrup and boil five minutes, allow ing one cupful of sugar and one cupful of water to each jar. Pare the fruit and pack whole In the jar; in each Jar put one tablespoonful of pure alcohol or brandy and pour in the hot syrup until brimful and seal. ITCHING ECZEMA ON FAM RASH Extended to Chest. Very Sore. Caused Loss of Sleep. Oo(h intf. Aggravated Breaking Out. HEALED BY CUT1CURA SOAP AND OINTMENT "My eesema arst began as a raeh ea my face, and then extended to my chest. It used my face and cheat to be very sore and it also caused disfigurement for the time being, also itching, burning aad lees of Bleep. The skin waa red and inflamed and I irritated the affected parts by eratetdng. My clothing also aggravated the In inking ot on my body. "The trouble lasted about three months aad I used many remedies but found Ovtf ntra Boap and Ointment brought about relief while the other remedies simiied to kave no affect. I bathed the affected parts with Catscura Soep and afterward appaed the Ointment, WMfcta a few days they af forded reMef and wHaln two weak I was completely healed." (Signed) Oawetl Notoa HIU. 219S Turk St., Baa rraodaoa, CaL, March 30, ISIS. Sample Each Free by Mai) With S3-p. Bldn Book oa request. Ad dress post-card "Cmrleara. !, T. Bee. Said throughout. Ike