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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Oct. 10, 1915)
6 THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAN, PORTLAND, OCTOBER lO, 1915.- ELIZABETHAN DOUBLET IS REVIVED FOR ORIGINALITY IN DANCE FROCK Gold Cord, Gold Beads and Pearls Are Used as Embroidery Lovely New Evening Gown Is Designed for Women Who Wear White New Bodice Is Greatly Reduced. ' ,dS JWh I '"''' k ' 1st; I r X - r 1 .ojhiiM , 1 J l." A ' -J V: : J - ' " I -' "'i - ! - V- ' . '4 A ' I - I . f --.r: !:Sf IP p-t ' THERE always are women who in sist upon white evening- gowns, women who look their fairest in white, and one of the loveliest of the new white dance frocks is depicted here, a girlish little model of white indestructible voile over white satin debutante. Rows of closely placed iri descent sequins give the skirt a pan eled suggestion, and a drop of the flimsy voile beneath is edged with iri descent fringe. The princess girdle which defines the waistlines, and drops below it in a basque point, is of brocad ed white satin. White pearl earrings and a low coiffure band of pearls set In silver are items of importance in 'this white costume. Undoubtedly the Elizabethan doublet has been revived to give an original touph to the modern dance frock. The doublet in this instance is of daffodil yellow faille classique, slashed to show an under-doublet of deep gold satin. Around the slashes are gold cords and the doublet is embroidered with gold beads and pearls. The skirt, of daffo dil net, is in several layers, the lower most, and also the shortest, layer having a hoop of very light feather bone. The bodice is also notable. Of faille classique at the back, it has a chemise front of daffodil tulle, and the impressive sleeves are edged with gold cord. This modern dance frock has the very least possible bodice, a mere strip of material arranged girdle-wise over a deep yoke of tulle which is all but perfectly transparent. As a compro mise with modesty, however, the arms are demurely veiled by a gauzy tulle scan. Kale gray silk net is draped over goldenrod satin of the same deli cate shade and there is but one touch of definite color, a cluster of violets KKainsi me lett anouler. Pale gray satin slippers -and silk stockings match the frock, which is exquisite in its dove gray tone and airy, floating outlines. I Answers to Correspondents CENTERV1LLE. Wash.. Sept. 30. Will you please give a recipe, for a bleaching fluid : i prefer one that will take stains from flour sacks: and also to make pure white from orv-ani carpet warp. By so do- i sure jgu wm oolice many . jour readers. MBS. M. E. S I N liLEACHIXG is safest and most satisfactory in the end, but is slow. Javeiie water may be used for bl. aching cream-colored or unbleached materials, but great care is needed and tnere is always a weakening of the 11 tiers or me material bleached. Javelle water is made Dy mixing one part cnioriae or lime wiui z parts water and then combining with a'solution of lye. using one part lye to four parts water. After combining me mixtures let them settle, and filter or poor otf tne clear part. Keep closely corked, and do not expose to the light. Add a few table spoons of javelle water to enough water to cover the flour-sacks. Kins thoroughly after treating with the bleaching fluid. Oive a number of weak applications rather than one strong one. Try one flour sack first, in order to see just how little bleach Ins: fluid you. can use and yet obtain the desired results. The sack? should, of course, he washed and boiled before feeing bleached. After the bleaching, and the extra rinsing, use bluing lr the usual way. Solutions of citric and tartaric acid re both useful as bleaching agents. Thfv tl sn require thorough rinslnsr. Perhaps some reader may have other suggestions. PORTUND. Or.. Oft. S. Will you ltlr-HT answer through the columns of The Sunday Oreitonian how to make sweet pickles as near likt- the store kind as possible, out of dill pickles that have been put up in a ererk and are ready to eat now? Evtry year those I put up keep fine for about two months, and then I have to take trem rut of the dm crock and put them In M-tson ,pr end cover with cold vlnejrar sua aaai. ud tiiat aj 1 caa keep them, but that does not give tbe flavor of th commercial product, which I like very much. Kindly iclve amount of season. nir to each pound, of meat. A. READER. I find "commercial sausage" very variable in flavor, so cannot gruess what particular kind you may have in mind. White pepper Is sometimes used, so is mace, and cayenne. A hint of garlic is often found in commercial sausages. Possibly these suggestions may aid you in making a new combi nation of seasoning's to suit your taste. A little powdered bayleaf is another flavorer occasionally used in very min ute quantities in some kinds of com mercial sausage. Seaside. Or., Oct. 2. What is the correct proportion of spices and vinegar for pickling a Ballon crock full of onions after they have been In brine from 10 days to two weeks? What kind and what proportion of sea soning should be used for about 10 doxen crawfish? We like them Just a wee bit hot. Thanking you for all your kindness. I am. J. S. There Is no particular "correct pro portion" for seasoning either of the things you mention, personal taste be ing the sole deciding factor. I do not know yours, so cannot decide for you. Mace, pepper corns, cloves, bits of bay- leaf, and tiny red peppers, allspice, ginger, mustard seed, cardamoms, are all used in combination by some peo ple in making1 pickled onions, others prefer just two or three of the above spices. The vinegar may be entirely unsweetened or one cup sugar may be added for one gallon vinegar. Directions for cooking crawfish were given very recently and therefore can not be repeated at present. It your present method is not. "hot and snicv and winey" enough, .try mixing a dash of cayenne, a few grains each of mace and clove, with a little sherry, and pour over the fish when- piled up ready serving-, were, again, individual taste is the deciding factor. Make the seasoning Just exactly as hot as you nappen to nice it. a. Portland, Or. Kindly give a recipa for 'Ansel Parfalt.-V Thanking- you In advance. w MRS. M. C. S. I hope the following will suit you: Arigrel parfatt One cud susrar. three- fourths cup water, whites of three eggs, one pint whipping- cream, one tablespoon vanitia. 0011 Da BUeTar and water to a thread as for ordinary boiled icinn. Pour on' the beaten whites. Beat until cool; add this to the cream beaten stiff. and the vanilla. Fold together thor oughly and freeze in paper cases in a un -parrait box" or in a mould lined with sherbet, or with water ice. or in a carefully oiled mould. and cover with oiled paper before the lid is put on. Pack the box or mould In eaual parts ice and salt and leave about four hours to freeze without stirring. but would like a ante, ylckle out of them If possible. Your columns are much help to me. Thanklns; you In advance. MBS. H. H. 1 do not think it possible to make '"store" sweet pickles out of dill pickles. You may, if you wish, drain and wash the pickles, pack them into glass jars, and cover with cold vinegar for three weeks. Then drain off the vinegar, and for each jar add a cup of sugar, half teaspoon extract of cloves, half teaspoon each extract of mace and cin namon, and put one tiny red pickling pepper into each Jar. Stir until the sugar Is dissolved, then pour the cold sweetened and flavored vinegar over the cucumbers and seal at once. The flavoring may be varied to suit per sonal taste, a little bayleaf and tar ragon being used by some makers. ASHLAND. Or.. Oct. . What is th. proper method of rooking- salted herring that are in brine in a kit? My father wrote me this question end I was "stumped" and immedlatelv I thought of you. Tour advice and receipt are al ways a comfirt and tbey have helped us so often. 1 .hail cirlaluiy appreciate it if Am enclosing ad. MRS. I. E. R. you can help hltu out. dressed envelope. The "proper" method depends upon personal taste. The herrings should be soaKea and washed in fresh. cold 'Water, the time of soaking depending upon tne saitness 01 the herring and the taste of the eater. Then they may oe anea in a ciotn. broiled and served with butter and lemon juice, or baked in tne oven. Or they may be steamed. picked apart, and heated in a slightly thickened milk or cream sauce and served plain or with horse radish. Another way is to simmer the fresh ened herrings in water to which a little vinegar is added. Drain and serve plain or with parsley and melted but ter, horse radish sauce, or mustard sauce. They may also tte made Into salads or combined with potatoes In several ways. A baked potato and 1 broiled salt herr'n' " is a classic com. bination. Salem. Or. Oct. 1. Will you please tell me througn your department or The Orego- n:e.P wnai Kina or seasoning I use lKrl- iinsar I make mjr sauaaire when suit it, using wit. black pctt and said Tips Show Trend of Fash ion's Vagaries. Knitted Jersey Snlt la Chle for Hunting Violet Pussy-Willow Silk Mke lovely Nea-llacee. mHB AUTUMN snorts Eirl mav he Jl perfectly equipped for a fortnight in the mountains or for a week of golf anywhere at an exclusive sporting goods shop which supplies golfing togs along with mashies and brassies, and correct bunting garb with the latest kind of shotgun. New for Autumn sports wear is a stunning tailored suit of striped knitted Jersey fabric, dark and rich in coloring and made in the approved style, with belt, pockets and skirt short enough to swing clear of the boot top. Heavier suits of English tweed and homespun have easy-fitttng coats to the hip, belted and patch pocketed Nor folk style. Lovely indeed is a negligee of violet pussy willow silk, which describes tself as a tea gown and is intended for wear when informal guests are ex pected. The violet silk gown falls in interrupted lines from a square neck to a hem that sweeps the floor. There is the slightest suggestion of an in ward curve at the waist line, in prin cess effect, and the gown has long llts for armholes. Underneath is a chiffon lining, also violet, to wheh are auacnea very long sleeves when wrinkle on the arm. Bands of rose fox edge these sleeves and a border of the fox outlines the skirt edge. Ribbon is promised a special vogue this Winter and some of the smart lit tle turbans for wear with Kail suits are made almost entirely of ribbon. A notable example is a turban with vel vet brim, upturning against one sid; the entire crown is draped with wide, navy-blue ottoman ribbon and a huge bow of the ribbon is draped across the back. There is a deal of skill in the draping of such a bow which must blend with the hat s lines, to be chic; but when a ribbon bow is smart, ah how smart it can be! Over a turban of this sort is drawn one of the new face veils in lattice or hexagon mesh with a staying vinet pattern. Start Now on Some of Your Christmas Work. WOMEN WHO ATTRACT INTEREST ARE CAUGHT BY PHOTOGRAPHER Miss Bertha Brackman, 19, Is Champion Swimmer of Ohio Valley Wife of American Ambassador to Russia Is Hospital Nurse Duchess Torlonia Visits in America. v mvi vj Lj lzj l in r-'TP-TT'rp-rT-Jrpjrr-R v . tf ?Sry f i vJ . I . cJJ- 7orc?fi;. , -Ltr 'J U TflsS SXvr Czar ' W?503 - -:- - JiJy t U HO ZZZ 1 V ;v - -X . - 1aV - r I 1 I JUST now, before Winter festivities get into full ewinp, is an excellent time for tucking- away a few Christ mas gifts in anticipation of the busy season ahead. Aprons, fancy ones and practical ones, make such acceptable ifts that one can always use at least three when apportioning the Rifts at Christmas time. One woman always gives a special friend an apron at gift time, and they have come to regard this as an. institution, the friend await ing with intense interest to see the latest variety of apron. There is a delightful little sewing apron In pro gress now for that friend. It is made from two thicknesses of fine batiste. The other piece is embroidered first. There are two buttonholed slits near tbe center front of the apron, leaving a panel effect which is elongated Into a rounded bib, also buttonholed. There Is a wreathed medallion for an initial and several little floral sprays to be worked In light pastel colors. After this much of the embroidery Is done the outer piece is basted to a plain piece .of the material and the two are buttonholed together around the entire outside edge, with the exception of the top. When tbe facing has been placed across the back of the apron, through which can be run a ribbon, and the bib Is tacked in place on the plain foun dation, there will be a deep-pocketed sewing apron that is as practical as could be desired. A separate lace-edged pocket Is a feature in a new sewing apron which is made of voile, is quite rounded and faced very plainly and demurely for at least four inches. The pocket is at tached by lace-edeed ribbons to the band of the apron by snap-fasteners or button and buttonholes. A stole apron for a dear little kid die's first day at school is too pretty not to mention. Is is exactly the same back and front and slips over the head, tying on each side with dainty ribbona A few tucks at the top give a pretty flare to the apron, which Is rounded, lace-edged and embroidered. Russian Cap Is Attractive. The Russian peasant cap of pink velvet is a high turban, certain to be becoming to a round face. Black taf feta or faille, as a sailor, has a black ostrich band and a pump bow at the back. A close black, satin toque has tricorn points, a flesh-colored crown of taffeta, a brim of velvet and a frill of black mallne. Daggers of jet will be worn. Fancy omamenta of beads are smart. Buckles of colored pyroxylin are o. k. A cannon wheel ornament is seen: alu aeroplanes and small bouquets of velvet flowers to tit 'nio the tricorn corners THE champion woman swimmer of the 'Ohio Valley is Miss Bertha Bmckman. 19 years old. She beat a squad of 20 picked swimmers from Cincinnati lately In a three-mile swim down the river against a strong head wind. She thinks of trying the Eng lish Channel swim after the war . Mrs. George T. ifarye. wife of the American Ambassador to Russia, is returning to Petrograd by way of Nor way, airs. Marye came from Russia a few months ago for a visit to her home n California. She has been the guest of her sister. Mrs. Moreland, in Pitts burg, and has visited Newport . and New York. She is returning now to her work of nurtiing in Russian hospi tals. At the beginning of the war Mrs. Marye took a course in nursina; and assumed the direction of the woman's department of a hospital at Petrograd. The Duchess Torlonia is visiting her old home in New York. She was Miss Elsie Moore, of that city, before she was married to the Duke, who she met while traveling abroad. Her husband Is in the United states as purchasing agenc ior tne Italian government. The suit to annul the marriage of Dorothy Gates, known to the stage as uorotny frumps, to Philip- Herr man, son of James S. Herrman. i wealthy builder, will come up in the courts soon, uorothy is a chorus girl at the winter Garden and, as she is only 15, she is represented in the pro ceedings by a guardian. Her husband is just her age. Ho is a Harvard stu dent and she says she married him because he threatened to commit sui cide ii she would not. ... Report on the Rialto has it that little This time the wealthy fiance come from Chicago, but he is not to be named for a time yet not till Anna gets through her engagement with the Follies. ... Mrs. (Tharles DeT-oosey Oelriohs. was Miss Marjorie Turnbull before her mar riage, is considered one of the beauties of Newport. She spends her Winter in New York, where she is orfe of tho active members of the Kmart set. Anna . Pennington Is to marry a "Chi cago millionaire." It used to be a "Pittsburg millionaire" that all the show girls were always about to marry. CUT GLASS REGAINS ITS DRESSING TABLE PLACE Combination Much in Favor Includes Silver. Which Adds Air of Luxury to Boudoir. : ,3-:. .. ? .. '. ' , - i v- ' ' - ;v I t ' ' ' fM- ' Mt : J linn- in ii i rr-Mirisi-,i,iMiiiriirrtii fi I lni iHnwMUlsmisliilHi lis til us mi J T I I FOR MILADY'S DRESSER. J I j CUT GIASS Is coming Into favor again for the dressing table, and a combination of cut glass and silver is especially fashionable. The toilet bottles are of heavy cut glass with massive silver stoppers and the two bottles, one for cologne and the other for a favorite toilet water, rest on a silver tray which in pattern matches the silver stoppers of the bot tle. ..... Silver-lopped Jai and powder boxes of cut glass are again adorning the dress ing tabic, and women are getting out their handsome sets of silver-backed brushes and mirrors, relegated to ob scurity for a while because of the pop ularity of Ivory-backed toilet belong ings. There is nothing handsomer for tbe dresser than silver, and in combi nation with the pure White of glass. the gleam of silver Is' both dainty and luxurious in suggestion. Most women will be glad to. welcome silver back to tbe boudoir Baby's Hot Water Bottle Important. A cunning cover for the miniature hot water bottle which in called into requisition for childish toothaches, ear aches and colics is made of canton flan nel. A small plcot edge of mercerised cotton is crocheted aroim.l th wl-n and the opening, which is drawn un over the neck of the botlle with it narrow tape. On one side of the flat cover is embroidered, in blu outliue. the Image of a pleasant old tabby cn;, whose silhouette, as she sits smiling over her whiskers. Just fills the. shap--t cover of the bottle. . The reverse sirto of the canton flannel bag is embroid ered to resemble the back of the same tabby. The .bag. besides retaining thi heat and giving a more comfortable sensation when In contact with tender skin than the rubber bottle, will dis tract the mind of a young invalid from her ills and insure a more speedy convalescence. Corn and Cliwsc Sou f Tic Oootl. One tablespoon minced peppers, two tablespoons butter, three tablespoons flour, one and one-half cups milk, one cup corn, one cup grated cheese, salt and pepper, three eggs. Cook the pep pers In the butter lor two minutes; add the flour and, as soon as smoothly- blended, the milk, adding this slowly and stirring constantly until boiling ppint is reached. Remove from the tire, ariu tne corn and cneese. also the salt and pepper and the yolks of the eggs lightly beaten. Last of all fold in the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Bake in a souffle dish or in small individual ramekins. If cooked all in one dish about 40 min utes will be required for the baking, but when cooked individually this time can be much reduced. Strong Body Means Health. A knowledge of the law of Immunity teaches that when our health is at Its best our restraining power is at its Dest. uence we say we are Immune to disease. While it Is wise and neces sary to avoid, control and destroy disease-producing germs wherever found. It is necessary to render the body as nearly Immune as possible and then keep It In that condition. No Trouble to Remove Superfluous Hair (Toilet Tips) It is an easy matter to rid the skin of objectionable hair or fuzx. If you pro ceed as follows: Mix a paste with some water and a little powdered detatonc. apply to hairy surface and In 2 or 1 minutes rub off, wash the sktn jiiJ the hairs are gone. This method of ban ishing hairy growths is palnlest' and does not mar the skin, but to avoid dis appointment' be certain to get real dcl aton. Ad