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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Sept. 5, 1915)
THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, SEPTEMBER" 5, 1915." 7 NEW WRAP OF ROSE-COLORED VELVET, LINED WITH SATIN, IS QUEER IN SHAPE Latest Piece of Apparel Is Really Huge Inverted Bag, Slashed Across Top for Neck Opening, With Two Corners Falling at Sides and Weighted With Large, Enormous Chenille Tassels. i'; ; I ft ft' J I yC-' J, t -l- I I' Wv l i H fill I f T' I . ft$ QTTEEIR indeed is the"shape of ttars new wrap, which is of rose-colored velvet, lined with white satin Tettrazini. The wrap is really a huge Inverted, baft, slashed across the top for a neck opening and down one side for a front openluff. The two corners of the bag fall at the sides and are weighted with enormous chenille tassels. The straight collar, which falls away from the neck, yet fits the shoulders snuKly, is a distinc tive feature, fresh from Fans. Here is the sort of little frock which one may wear at luncheon or tea hour, which will, not easily, crush under a motor coat and which is dark enough in color not to be too conspicuous for frequent wear. It is made of black jpoldenrod satin and has an overskirt made of a length of the satin, selvidge-at-the-edse, draped to cascade in a diagonal line from hip to hem. The bodice with button-trimmed ffrmhole and sleeve is simple but dis tinctive. A wide crushed girdle nn ished with a beaded ornament defines the waistline and the neat little collar and cravat are of pink indestructible "voile and black lace insertion. Kxactly the sort of frock to wear under a motor coat and to lunch or iine in. en route, is pictured in this charming princess model of blue and green checked mohair, drawn up, bib apron fashion, over a long-sleeved gnlnipe of black satin debutante. The huge necktie, drawn under a lin en turnover collar. Is an important ad junct of smartness: so is the tailored hat a new felt sailor with an ostrich tip catching back the brim. Though not too short for grace and dlgnilv the skirt shows the trim buttoned walking boot to good advantage. Answers to Correspondents BY LILIAN" TINGLE. MYRTLE POINT. Or.. Auir. IS l'leaae ttl nip what would be suitable f.r a nice and simple wedding- breakfast Would youne; chickens be one thins suitable, and how should-' they bo cooked? At what time should the breakfast be served? ti The pronunciation of these words: Mousse, frappe and pates. p. j. A WEDDING breaktast Is practically the same as luncheon, served, after a morning wedding, any time from 11:30 to 1:3d. according to the time set for the ceremony and when and how the bridal couple is leaving Occasionally, where convenience or train time demand a verv earlv depart ure, the breakfast is ' informally served at a late breakfast" hour and is more like a real breakfast and less like a luncheon; but it usually takes place after the ceremony. Young chickens would be a good fea ture, if available, and if the number of guests to be served does not make the cooking and serving of chickens too difficult. If of broiling size, split, flatten and broil the chickens. Broiling is somewhat difficult with the ordinary vl cookstove. made without a broiler: but they may be Dartl;- nan-broiled and then finished in the oven, with good results. If of larger size, thev mav be fried. Directions for frying chicken were giv en recently in this column. Another way is to brown the frying pieces quickly (after flouring In the usual way) In deep fat. and then finish the cooking in a dripping-pan in the oven. Mashed, creamed . or browned pota toes might be served with the chickens, and a light vegetable, depending upon what is available. Canned peas, of good quality, may be used to save labor, if necessary. Nice little light rolls are. of course. Important, and you may serve a green or sliced tomato salad either with the chicken (in the French style) or sepa rately, as preferred. The salad, how ever, is not absolutely necessary for a simple breakfast. Cake, of course.. What Is a wedding without cake? And with the cake you may serve ice cream or - shertet (if G . , ts --f - f ' i T k v - f -.4' ? -5 1 -i ; ' cs i . I s , ' ' ' 'I f ' , I ' x i easily obtainable and enjoyed) or you may substitute a.m Bavarian cream of some sort, preferably serve! in tall glasses; or a whipped cream gelatine dessert of the snow-pudding or marsh mallow tj'pe, with whipped cream, would be easy and could be either white or tinted to suit your flowers. Keep the table simple and dainty. A fruit cocktail or chilled melons in place when the guests enter would both help the attractiveness of the table and simplify serving. Have good cof fee, of course: ripe olive", or salted nuts and bon bons, if you like, though the two last are not really necessary. Don't attempt too much for the amount of help and strength that you have. Sim plicity is always "good style." while overelaborateness is always a danger. The words you mention are French, and it is rather difficult to give the exact equivalent in English spelling, accent - and inflection being somewhat different. . "Mousse" is one syllable, like "moose." Frappe has two sylla bles of about equal stress, but the latter is very slightly, the heavier. like "Xra-pay. -epokeu -Quickly. The J same applies to pates . (plural), which has two syllables, , almost equally stressed, as "pa-tay." The "s" . is not sounded. Pate (or pates), however, is little needed in English, since we have perfectly good Anglicized equivalents in "pattie" or "patties" . for smajl "pates." and "pie" or "tart" for larger "pates." 0 . - Portland, Or., Aug. 27. Would, it be ask ing too much If you would have printed In The Sunday Morning Oregoniaa the fol lowing letter: If Mrs. Hoefci, of rural delivery, Sheri dan, Or., will send to The Oregonian for Sunday publication her recipe for ripe cu cumber pickles she would confer . a favor upon the writer, who some years ago had the pleasure of sampling them. Other read ers, no doubt, would appreciate the same P. s. "We shall all be grateful if Mrs. Hoefs is willing to share her knowl edge with us. Shedds, Or., Aug. 11. I'm living on a farm. 1 have a eplendid garden: and any quantities of nice brittle asparagus, green string bean. Last year 1 canned about - . r-rm ,.f (hi. lrlnH n Hah n a .J i - nearly that many canned again this year. Now I would like to know if tbere Is some other way I could use them beside the plain canning. If you -could,- kindly send mo tome recipes of using them- I -ahould be. yery glad, as I knew of but the one way of keeping them. I nave heard of pickling beau, but do not have such a recipe. I would be glad to find sale for them, also. If possible, as I could pick now about lOO pounds or more. They are so good 1 Just wish others could enjoy them, also. Thanking you in advance. MRS. J. S. Pain,, ordinary canned beans, ,of good quality, are, of course, the most gen erally , useful and the most salable.; but for variety or to take care of the beans when the supply of Jars is un equal to the demand it is possible to salt, to dry or to pickle string beans. For drying, use only very young, ten der beans. String them on a heavy thread and hang . in the air (if the weather is warm and dry) " or spread out upon wire or cioth drying racks or on platter, and dry in the air or in a warming oven or fruit dryer. If you dry them in the open air, cover with netting to keep off insects, and do not leave them out on a damp day or aftr sunset. Paraffine paper sacks, or the paper bags sold for cooking purposes, are good for storing dried beans; or they may be kept in tins, the object being to exclude the damp air and pre vent moulding. For use, soak over night In cold water before cooking in the ordinary way. ' ' Some makers advise blanching the beans previous to drying them by dip ping into boiling water for three min utes and then plunging into cold wa ter. Then drain well and dry. J have had no personal experience with the latter plan, but I think it might be worth your while to try a small quan tity each way and compare results. I should Te glad to know which yon find the more satisfactory. Salted beans, after being washed, are (if I remember rightly) packed In lay ers in a stone crock with salt sprinkled between the layers, a cloth and weight ed board being placed on top. After two days a little brine is added, if necessary, to make sure the beans are covered with liquid. The cloth should be washed frequently to prevent mould ing and fermentation. For use. the beans are freshened in cold water for as long a time as may be necessary and are then cooked in the usual way. The flavor, of course, is somewhat dif ferent from that of fresh beans. I have not tried jhese salted beans, and appear to have lost or mislaid the recipe given me by a German friend some time ago; but we tried, last year, on the recommendation of an Italian fruit dealer, the method outlined above, using green peppers r.nd green toma toes in place of beans and putting them into a cheesecloth bag in a cov ered crock. The results were quite good, the vegetables keeping until well into January and making very savory dishes after proper soaking and freshening. Pickled beans may be put up alone or in combination with cucumbers, pickling onions and cauliflower. Any of the general methods for scrur, semi sweet or mustard pickles might be adapted for beans. Following is a typi cal detailed recipe: Pickled string beans- One gallon beans, one quart pickling vinegar, two cups water, one cup sugar, two table spoons .mixed pickling spices, brine made with one and one-half table spoons salt in two quarts boiling water. String the beans, but do not cut them up as for cooking. ut only if nec sary to fit the jars. Put them into the boilini? salted water and cook until nearly tender, then drain. Meanwhile boil the vinegar, sugar and two cups water with the spices tied in a bag. The water is necessary with strong vinegar, but may be omitted or re duced in quantity if the vinegar seems too weak to stand diluting. Boil 15 minutes. Then add the beans and cook about 10 minutes longer, or until the beans are tender, but not soft. Can while hot. Less sugar may be used if liked or a very little more, though care is- necessary not to get the beans too sweet. .- The spices may also be varied to suit personal taste. Or a mustard dressing might be added, either hot or mud, as preferred. Portland, Or.. Aug. 10. I have your recipe for dill pickles with grape leaves, but I do not understand if the brine should first be boiled and cooled, or wh-ether It should be hot when poured -over the pickles or not heated at aiL You did not say it should be boiled, but I am told It should always be boiled first. What do you mean by "watch ing for signs of softening?" Will they get soft? I would hate for them to be soft. Can it bo prevented? I know I am asking lots of questions, but I never made any dill pickles and I am told so many different ways of making them. Some say they will not keep in a stone jar all Winter. Will I have to "seal tham In glass jars to make them keep? ' It would take so mapy Jars if 1 do. VYiiI you please answer this in next Sunday's paper, as 1 have my cucumbers all picked. Will you give a recipe for mak ing sour pickles that are crisp? Mine ars always soft. Thanking -you so kindly. Please do answer Sunday. MRS. C. ANXIOUS. I am sorry that owing to my ab sence from Portland your letter reached me only a few days ago: How ever, your pickles will take no harm in the brine. It is really safer to boil the brine for the dill pickles. If wanted for Immediate use the brine may be poured on while hot. The pickles will then be ready for use in about a week. But -generally the cold boiled brine is used. They can be kept in a stone jar all Winter with care and good luck but it is "chancy" and sealed glass Jars are safer and less trouble. In a crock you have to watch for signs of soften ing and remove at once any that be gin to go that way, lest they infect the others. The softening is caused by a micro-organism. The pickles ought not to go soft, of course, but care is necessary and even with care it some times happens. If you find any going soft take them out and either rescald and cool the brine or use new brine with enough vinegar to make it slightly acid. Softening is most like ly to take place if the brine and cu cumber juice do not undergo acid fer mentation ( supposing that the pickles are made without vinegar) or where the pickles are exposed to th air. Conseqnently you need to be sure the Lpickle liquid is at least slightly acid In taste and tQ keep the cucambers under the liquid with a weighted board after covering them with a cloth The cloth should be replaced by a 'clean one (washed and -boiled and rinsed quite free from soap) about every 10 days and the crock should have a well fitting lid. Store the pickles in a cool place as soon as the fermentation has taken place. Considerable skill and judgment, really, i& needed in making this so called "simple" pickle; hence, for a beginner the methods calling for weak vinegar and sealed glass jars are more likely to be .successful than the "natural fermentation" method, used, in the "grape vine leaf recipe. Other dill pickle recipes bad appeared previously' in this column before the one you mention. Recipes for sour pickles have also appeared recently. Kairview. Or.- l followed the recipe in The Oregonian you gave, for dill pickles, which wa : "Take ripe cucumbers, wash, place In jars, put tablespoon of salt and spiay of dill in each Jar, cover with luke warm water, screw lids on,' place jars In warm place until cloudy." I put 24 quart jars behind the range a week ago and every jar is leaking now and still cloudy. Please advise m what to do. and greatly oblige one who is ever grateful for your many recipes.. .. MRS. E.A.. B. See the answer given above. I think you have k'ept your pickles in too warm a place for too long a time. If they have not by now stopped leaking and do not look right, open, . rinse them, see that ; none are - soft, repack and cover with diluted cold vinegar, salted to taste, and put some dill into each jar. Evidently you did not quite understand the recipe. Explanations had been previously given. "Ripe" cu cumbers were not called for, but "dill pickle size," At th end of lasf June Great Britain owned StiS merchant steamers of more than tons each, Germany possessed 124 and America CS. WOMEN "OK MANY- COUNTRIES HELP TO MAKE WORLD'S IMPORTANT NEWS Daughters of J. P. Morgan and George Gould Much in Public Eye in New Rescued From Arabic Bulgarian and Roumanian Royalty Being Watched With Increased Interest. j ' -: -" ? : - . - - - . i V- . " VI- i yftt' fry11 SrBagB' -L yj& - ' m, EW YORK, Sept. 4. Mrs. -A.: J. Drexel, Jr., is the daughter - of George Gould. She is one of the most beautiful women of New :York society, and she affects the latest thing in head-dress. Anne Morgan, daughter pf the late J. Pierpont Morgan, has two Rusfctanwolf hounds. One is white and the" other black, and she calls them Brandy and Soda. Miss Morgan has been much in the public eye since her father's death and no week passes without some new picture of her or story about her find ing its way into the New York papers. One of the survivors of the Arabic disaster is Stella Carol. She Is a child singer, who was on her way to this country to sing under the management of Hugo Goerlitz, of New York. While she figures as- a "child Ginger,' be cause she is not yet 21, Miss Carol is married and her name appeared on the ship's list as Mrs. Lebland. Miss Carol was a discovery of Mrs. Amy Sherwin, who is Mr. Goerlitz's wife. She heard the child singing on the streets of Lon don to pick up pennies for her sick mother, who was a charwoman. She recognized the possibilities of her voice and had it trained: At the same time she gave the child a new n.me, Stella Carol. Clajre Galligan. of New Rochelle, IX! Drexel. Jr., is the daughter of I j 1 111 I - .i.Y-S T I FALL FASHIONS NOW APPEAR IN CROWDS AT FASHIONABLE CAFES Taxi Coat of Silk Guards Dance Frock on Long Motor Rides From Country Home Twentieth Century Hoop Gives Proper Silhouette Featherboned Bodice Enters With Trim Waistlines. LONG before the real social season is in full swing society appears informally yet in gala array in the restaurants. At luncheons, at cosy teaa and at suppers after the play the fashionables may oe " seen-, not en masse, as later in the season, but here and there in groups, and the charming frocks, hats and wraps Just unpacked from their Paris ooxes begin to make their bow to the new mode. f- Even in the less expensive restau rants one may get glimpses of author itative new styles, for these are the days when everything that antedates August is hopelessly passe, and the fashions of Winter are entering the arena. Most useful, at this time, is the little frock of fresh, modern mode and not too perishable character to be worn under a motor coat. Style ot Rigid 3tow. From the big. country houses gay parties motor into town for theater and supper afterward or for dinner and the theater; the new plays are opening now and the supper places are begin ning to show some of the Winter as pect of gaiety. Until the season real ly opens one may dine," or even sup, in almost any sort of frock, extravagant ly decollete or of style and materia,! that bespeak the afternoon costume Of course the woman who .adores dancing will seize any opportunity to wear a dance frock especially a" new dance frock, fresh. from Paris and she will even risk its airy prettiness under a heavy motor coat during a 20-mile motor spin into town. Some" of the loveliest new restaurant dance frocks show several layers of tulle, through which the foundation of satin gleams delicately. ";"' , Tulle Lajerii Shaded. A charming effect is "obtained by shading the tulle layers f fom the tint of the satin foundation at the foot to a very pale shade at the waistline, and this effect is particularly beautiful; in rose pink. It has been seen also;, in shades of light brown; one XrocK worn the other night having six layers; of tulle, shading from pale tan to the faintest buff, over a foundation of pale tan satin nocturne. Bronze -dancing slippers and stockings of natural silk accompanied this . enchanting restau rant dance, frock. But the ; arrangement of shaded browns are not the' chief interest in this frock; the attention of every wom an was arrested, and vaptured by tne v L lis - I I - j?" 1 Mil - v o a .5 !' iCI'J I 1' -. 1 carried off many of the honors in the annual water carnival of the National Woman's Lafesaving League at Sheepe head Bay. She took the 220-yard cham pionship race and scored in all 16 points, tying with Lucy Freeman for the Harry Chisholm trophy. Eleanore. Queen pt Bulgaria, wears the simple native costume of her sub jects. Queen Sophia, before her mar riage to the Bulgarian King, was the Princess Eleanore of Reutz-Kostritz, a favorite at the Russian court. She is distinguished for her work in the Red Cross field, having been head of one swing "of the tulle skirt, unmistakably betraying hoops beneath. Ces hoops have , come at . last, though, they are worn' only with dancing dresses of diaphanous fabrics. . This new 20th century hoop is not ponderous like the vast crinoline of the 1850 belle: It is light to wear, col lapses cleverly when one sits down or crowds through a narrow space and gives the tulle skirts an - inimitable saucy swing. Less delicately airy than the tulle dance frock for restaurant--wear is tht little frock of pussy willow taffeta, all in one color, as fashion now decrees. These frocks are seen in all-white, all turquoise, all-primrose and all-green the most dainty, dainty shade of green, a shade which the Southerners "call "Spring" green. Such a frock, made of Spring green pussy willow, was noted one night last week. The full gathered skirt swung clear of the floor by eight Inches, for most dance frocks of that model are as daringly short as the law allows. Rose Worn at Girdle. Rows of box-pleated quilling, made of the silk and having fringed-out edges, ware festooned on the skirt in enormous scallops from hem to above the knee, and this coquettish skirt, if you please, held Itself out over a 20th century hoop in the approved manner. The bodice was made, apparently, of two bobs of the pale green pussy wil low, lifted at back and fixnt from the girdle, on a guimpe of gathered white tulle. The little tulle sleeves had box pleatings of green silk and the tulle was drawn up modestly in a rounded decolletage. A white rose and some green leaves nestled against the gir dle. The prettiest, restaurant dance frock seen in many a day was noted recently. A full skirt of flesh pink tulle with two ruffles of the tulle was lifted over the hips into the new "wing" puffs, which give what the French call now "the illusion - of the hips." ' - Wiapi Wilt for -Opera. The front of the bodice of flesh pink tulle also was carried backward from the shoulders in two long, floating scarves, which, knotted together, fell at the back of the hips. The frock had a broad girdle of pink satin debutante on which was a mosaic design, wrought with tiny jink roses and, opalescent beads. it is a-bit early yet to look lor Jav- York "Child Sineer" Amone Those of the largest Red Cross hospitals dur ing the Russian-Japanese war. She mav be called upon soon aeain, should her country be drawn into the present war. to do the effective Red Crois work for which she is noted. Princess Jleana and the Prince Mircia, whose father is King I-'erdlnand of Roumania, have the distinction of being the handsomest of the younger gen eration of the royalty of Europe. It is probable that the kingdom of their father may be involved in the great European war, arraying itself with the allies against the Teutons. Should Roumania take up arms against the Germans, it is believed in Europe that the fall of Constantinople will be but a matter of time, inasmuch as Rou- Kmonia and the Balkan States are the I keystone to Turkey. islji expensive evening wraps. These are waiting, in their tissue-stuffed boxes, to make their grand bow when the opera opens. Here and there one observes a stunning wrap, but for the most part women are driving up to the restaurants these September, evenings in taxi coats of silk or in motor coats of heavier fabric if the trip has been made from out of town. A practical taxi coat for either afternoon or even ing wear over light frocks is of black goldenrod satin. line.d with white satin of the same material, and in the rip pling effect at the loot of the garment the white satin reveals itself constant ly. This coat follows the new silhouette; that is, it has a very full ripple skirt flowing out from a belt which encir cles the natural waistline. Above the coat fits rather closely over shoulders and arms and even defines the curve of the bust, although it is not stiff ened with feathering as are some of the new bodices for Autumn. Motor Coats for Cafes. The black satin coat has a tall choker collar which fastens across with a cord and loop and there is an adjustable collar of ermine which may be added on cool evenings. One sees fetching little frocks in silk and in silk and serge or silk and mohair combinations on women who motor into town for luncheon and shipping. One such frock is worth a word of description. A princess model it is, with the skirt of blue and green checked mohair running up bib fashion to make the bodice. The bib attaches itself to a long-sleeved guimpe of black satin nocturne and there is a very wide double strap belt of the checked mohair, corded and buttoned with satin. Turnover collar and cuffs of organdie give a tailored trimness to this frock and it is matched by a new felt sailor trimmed with a dash ing but minute wing. Yacjtl Wood for Decks. Washington (D. C.) Post, In response to the advertisement of the United States Navy Department for 1,500,000 teak decking logs, a Manila lumber firm has submitted an offer of 500,000 feet of yacal, a Philippine wood resembling teak, which is regarded as the equal of teak for construction pur poses. This is the first time that such offers of Philippine woods have been made to .the JCavy.