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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Sept. 5, 1915)
myrtle and bottle ?reen. very dark in shade. The favored material for formal tailored suits are silk serges, broad cloths., mohair and. worsted mixtures, velvet, and rather rich silks like faille clasique and satin Tetrazini. which are combined with broadcloth or fine French serge New veils for Fall are in every sixe. from bits of face veil of octagon or filadora mesh - with dainty allover or border patterns to extraordinarily long motor veils with a dashing border of black squares or dots along each er d, and. black "beauty spots" adroitly placed so that they come over the 'face when the veil is adjusted. GOOD ENOUGH TO SUP IN IS GAY LITTLE FROGK" WITH ITS FRILLS Like Bonny Highlander, Maid Wears Sekrf Plaited Over Shoulder With Soft, -Airy" TuUe SuppIantinV Folded Plaid Stunning Coat of Black Goldenrod Satin Is Suitable for Taxi and Restaurant Wear. BLACK AND WHITE DECORATION IS ADVISED FOR SHOP SHOW WINDOWS Laura Baldwin Doolittle Says Scheme Is Effective and Artistic, While Gray Is Approved. Rather Than Other " ' More Marked Shades. -s,ww.. vmr- Styles Again Require Figure , to Be Well Laced. Paakloa Indicates Small Waist w B In Voirur for Winter, Althonarh Billowy Skirt Will Add to Effect. . , - . - : i -. '-"' , - US - - y Y'- A I ;--. J V-'" v?? K GOOD enough to sup in; not too goo a to show Itself informally in 'a public restaurant, is this frock for a young woman; a gray little frock, if you please, with overlapping frills ar ranged in scallops. ' Pink Georgette crepe is the frock's material and on the sheer crepe are arranged the ruf fles and puffings of pink debutante eattn a soft, new satin for Fall. The little bodice is especially girlish, with its modest decolletage and quaint, frilled sleeves to the elbow. Like the bonny Highlander, this maid wears her scarf plaited over her shoul der, only instead of a folded plaid she has a scarf of soft, airy tulle. The scarf trails backward from the bodice and is knotted at the hips; through it one glimpses the wide girdle of opal escent beads which give color to the otherwise faintly tinted frock. The skirt, of flesh pink tulle, over catin nocturne of the same shade, is short enough to show pink satin slip pers and stockings of natural silk, so sheer that they take on a pinkish tone from the flesh beneath. The woman who wears dainty dan cing frocks requires an evening wrap to cover them and this etunning coat of black goldenrod satin is more suit able for taxi and restaurant wear in the semi-season than would be an elab orate wrap. The coat might be worn also in the afternoon with perfect pro priety. Its loose folds are gracefully con trolled under an unusual belt slashed to show underlays of richly colored brocaded silk.. The coat is lined with whte pussy willow taffeta which bIiowb in the folds at the edge, and the strik ing feature, of course, is the 'liandsome collar of ermine fur. Aids to Sleep on Hot Nights Simple and Effective. Kleetrie Kan Kvaporates Moisture on Bodr From Cold KponKe Hath and Rfiluivi Trmperature W itaout DaDgrr THERE is a pleasing fallacy that cooler nights come with the end oi August. Most persons find that sleep is as elusive these close. end-of-Summer niglits as it was in the mid-July sea son. An especially tricky elf is sleep, when one has just returned to the racket and the heavy atmosphere of town, after a sojourn in the cool and iuiet country. What with belated taxis and the clansing of trolley gongs until mid night, and the rattle and rumble of early trucks and milkcarts soon there after, little enough sleep does one get the first night or two back in town, ami small wonder that one sighs wake fully, for the chirp of crickets and the trill of tree toads lately deemed so intolerable. As a counter irritant for city noises, as well as for the sake of coolness, have an electric fan installed in your bedroom. The soft motion of the air currents will soothe you to sleep when still, heavy air would cause restless ocsing and turning in bed. There are persons who hesitate at the expense of an electric fan. which would give cool ness and comfort all Summer, yet will spend twice the amount of the fan's cost to get away to a stuffy hotel bedroom in the country for a few days. Another important aid to sweet sleep is a well-made bed. with sheets, espe cially the lower sheet, so large and so well tucked in that there my be no pulling out at ends or sides of the bed with consequent wrinkles. The upper sheet and a thin blanket, which may be drawn up toward morning, should be sufficient covering. Take a eponge bath in cold water before retiring. Without drying the body slip into the night garment, turn on the revolving tan, lie down on -t lie II k?-i ill .... smoothly drawn sheet and draw the other sheet over you." The moisture oh your body will be 'greater than, the moisture of ordinary perspiration; '.but it will be cool moisture and its evapora tion in the cool breeae of the -fan will reduce the temperature of the body sev eral 'degrees, and you will slip off into dreamland before you know it- Russian Influence Noted in New Autumn Styles. Corduroy f Green Just Tearkei Tip. of HlKh-Tpped Hoota, and Coat Kits SnuKly About Shoulders to Waistline. - THE Russian influence manifests it .self "strongly i in' - new" coats for Autumn.-and Winter -and-f ur trimmings at-coiiar.-wrisvanov QB oi tha-coit. skirt. enhance the Russian suggestion. A smart model being displayed on Fifth avenue now, is of Kussian green corduroy, in seven-eighths, length- just long enough that is. to reveal a bit of the frock and dainty, high-heeled but toned boots which women wear in the street these days. The coat fits snu?ly over shoulders and arms and outlines the figure above the waist. Below a flat belt of the corduroy the coat-skirt flares away in fuM ripples, a band of skunk" fur' going all the way Tinpund the four and a half-yard edge: Collar ette . and. narrow cuffs are als6 ' of tkunk. r For a wee girl nothing is prettier than. a frock of white batiste, smocked in rose pink. Pink hairbcw, sash and socks match the smocking, and but-toned-strap slippers complete an 'en trancing costume for 5-vear-olds. - Among the new colors for Autunin are craws'-, wing blue, ' taupe. . mouse gray. l&niia .varied-list of greens,, including JUST what is a normal corset? An advertisement, the other day. spoke of new fitted frocks which made necessary a return t more normal corsets after the long period of relaxed figure lines. This leads one to con clude that a normal corset Is directly the opposite of a normal figure and perhaps the conclusidn is quite true, after all; for from time immemorial the corset has been a foe of the per fectly natural figure. At any rate, after & few blessed years of comfort and freedom, woman is to be "well-corseted" again.. No more sitting in a low chair or lying down in one's stays. No more relaxed noses: no more buttoning one's boots after one is dressed for the day. The new corsets are not so very radical not enough to inspire fearful forebodings in women who Insist upon perfect comfort; but their promise is ominous to one who can see the direction of lasnion s straws in the wind of the mode. A big department store in Manhat tan a week or two ago showed the new corset on a living model for two hours morning and afternoon, and various frocks were tried, on to give spectators an idea of the coming silhouette for Winter. This silhouette is small and dainty above the waistline and the waist is very small 'in appearance partly because the corset does pull It in a bit and partly because the skirt billows out voluminously below ft. The full skirt, short enough to show the feet in pretty buttoned boots, and the close-fitting bodice give the silhouette a dainty, feminine suggestion which undoubtedly many women will prefer to the free, natural lines that have been fashionable for several seasons. -But whether or not this new, arti ficial figure will be accepted by woman in general, in these days of much-extolled feminine progress, strength of mind and emancipation - from petty considerations of vanity who shall say? HALF MILLION SACRIFICED German Sympathizer Rejects Big Offer for Carbolic Acid. NEW YORK, Aug. 30. "Did I sacri fice a profit of half a million dollars to keep carbolic acid from the ammu nition makers?" repeated Dr. Hugo Schweitier. chemist and head of the Synthetic Patents Company. "I don't know; I shall figure it out. The amount contracted for was 6000 nounds a dav up to January 1, 1916. The other con tract was 4000 pounds a day to April 1. 1916. "The first contract calls for deliv eries for six months. That's 900,000 pounds of carbolic acid for 25 work ing days in the month. The smaller contract is 300,000 pounds by the same computation. The total is 1,200.000 pounds which I bought at $1.06. "The ammunition makers were pay ing $1.50 a pound for carbolic acid, and without effort' or an Instant's de lay I could have sold my contracts to them at that figure. There was an instantaneous profit of 44 cents a pound or $62$, 000 on the whole undertaking." Ir. Schweitzer's contracts were made with Thomas A. Edison's new carbolic acid plant, and included, the chemist says, all the acid made there in excess of Mr. Edison's own needs. As for Americans who sail on English ships. Mr. Schweitzer has . no . indulgence for them. "I do all I can to aid Germany with out injuring America, he said. "I do not think the loss of the lives of a few fool Americans, who Insist on traveling on. enemy ships, is any rea son for bringing this country into war." ADVENTURESS LEADS RING Beautiful Woman Forces Money From Millionaires of East. NEW YORK. Aug. 30 Harry B. Shirk, a Brooklyn lawyer, has confirmed a report that he was about to apply for an indictment, perhaps in New York County, agrainst a ring of blackmailers that has been getting thousands of dol lars from millionaires. A Pittsburg millionaire, who was entrapped into a $25U,0U0 demand, is Mr. Shirk's client, and the leaders of the ring are a woman of . French and Spanish extraction and much beauty and an Englishman. According to Mr. Shirk, the woman moves in Newport society under an as sumed name; she has a record in Lon don nd Paris; 'the Englishman wears a monocle, and the other members of the group are two men and two women. And the woman is the last word - in "beautiful adventuresses. Mr. Shirk recently returned from Atlantic City, where he and Harry V. Dougherty, a detective, were bathing alongside the adventuress. "I am waiting for a certain report from Mr. Dougherty before I seek the indictments," said Mr. Shirk. "The blackmailers are being trailed, and they can't get away.' The story had it that the Pittsburg man met the adventuress at a hotel in Lake wood, N. J., in February,-1914 ; that she had eyes as big as cherries and was all curves, and that In April, at Atlantic City, she threatened to sue for breach of promise unless she got $250,000. GUIDE OF BLIND AFFLICTED Boy Who Piloted ArfHcted Father and Mother la Losing Sight. PHILADELPHIA. Aug. 30. Eight-year-old James Stewart, who. ever since he has been able to - walk, has been leading bib blind mother hnd father about the streets o they might beg, has been ordered sent -to the Penn sylvania Institute for the Training of the Blind, in Overbrook, for it has been learned that he, too, is gradually los ing his sight. - . . The case -was taken before Judge MacN'eille. in Juvenile court, by Chief Probation -Officer Mrs. Jane- Hippin. The blind mother made a plea that the boy not be taken from het on the ground that without him she would be unable to earn a livelihood. When the court made its decision che asked that a person be appointed to lead her about the streets while begging. An investigation by the court offi cers disclosed that the- boy was losing his sight for lack of proper treatment, and that he never had been sent to school. The court deemed the blind mother and father unfit guardians. At the school young Stewart, besides be ing given medical treatment, will re ceive, a schooling. . " The British a!t industry - -centers Cheshire and Gloucestershire. la Ilia Wit 3 8 .Two BY LAUR BALDWIN DOOLITTLE. Copyrieht'ed. 101o. by Laura Baldwin Doo little.) . mjw BLACK and white scheme for the LjL interior decoration of a sljop or a showroom is most admirable it seems to me. It is smart, it is distinc tive and' it la' a decidedly grood back ground for one's patrons. It does not clash with anything1 and accentuates the value of whatever is shown. I do not understand why there has been no one in Portland ready to adopt this effective, artistic and decidedly decorative scheme. Take a millinery shop, for instance, or a woman's outfitting: place, how much more effective hats and growns would be agrainst a background of black and white than when shown in a shop decorated and furnished in colors. No matter what the color of the hat or grown that is beine; shown, it would be In harmony with the background. Instead there is the everlasting green and brown that predominates in two thirds of the shops in town. Gray Is Approved. I am glad to see there are a few places done in gray which is much bet ter; since if a soft French grray is used with ivory woodwork there is a neutral tone against which all shades and col ors look well. A smart shop.in the East illustrates my point. The conventionalized de signs for the wall decorations are all in black on an ivory white ground and by the contrast look velvety and rich. The draperies are ivory white mohair with a hand-painted border in black. The valances are all in ivory with black conventional designs with black bor ders and cream white fringe. The carpet is a velvet Wilton in black and while check, that is soft, vlvety and soundless. There Is not a touch of color in the whole room excepting a few potted palms and it flowers, and the hats shown. The shop is lighted with the semi indirect lighting system and the whole thing is admirable as a setting for the smartly gowned women who frequent the place. Btnck and AVbite Not for Home. It is questionable whether anyone would really like a black and white room in a home. One might do .a room 5 m 1 il I f I II L Is i wMm ; :w tSpSllli wfelt 1 w w w 3- $&jg -r views cl.a black-and-white scheme for bedroom. By an English designer and rave over its aesthetic beauty for a while, but deep down in her soul. I am sure, there would be a reservation that would, if expressed, be against the suitability or desirability of such & scheme for home decoration. I am showing also a bedroom done in black and white, designed by an Eng lish decorator; but imagine the effect on the eyes to have to lie and stare at those black and white striped walls! However, there is a tiny black and white striped paper that gives the ef fect of gray that would be restful and effective on the wall. Then one could' use the black and white carpet and black and white furniture to good ad vantage. Black and white makes the sharpest contrast known, since black is the absence- of all color, and white the combination of all colors, conse quently it is ;not a restful scheme. "When one wants quiet and restfulness, all sharp contrasts must be - avoided and to insure rest when asleep, surely to go to bed in a black and white room would be contrary to all laws of reason or psychology Rest and Quiet Desired. It seems much better to me to stand by the soft pastelle shades of blue and rose or yellow with soft grays or ivory backgrounds that made the rooms of Marie Antoinette so charming,- than to seek for novelties at the expense of rest and quiet. There i a. lot of this black and white decoration, though that will stand the test of time; for instance, some of the work done by the Austrian artists in silhouette. The ones I have in mind are by Jungnickle and Ne chaudsky. Their work was shown re cently in the Austrian Museum of Art and Industry in Vienna." The draped human figure in conven tional design evidently was not intend ed to represent any particular period. To me they are exceptionally graceful and decorative. I do not see why the same idea might not be carried out to represent any period desired and made to rival the designs of. Kate Greenaway; also those of Watteau and Fragonard that are today finding such favor in the East for wall decoration's. These designs of the Viennese artists show such delicate balance, refinement and beauty; and since all appreciation of beauty is founded on a well-ordered design that carries out these points, I do not Fee why they should not be appreciated 50 years from now as well as today. I can see great possibilities along this line. - This frightful war may interfere with the art development in Austria, as well as in every other country at war today. . France Bans Black and White. France has put the ban on the Black and 'White cult and her decorators are planning new things along entirely different lines that will have no in dication of any Austrianinfluence, for, of course, it was Austria who first introduced the Black and White craze. There is a long list of notables along this line, amongst whom are Professor Josef Hoffmann, the one who first attracted attention to his scheme by the use of sharp . contrasting lines, and some others are Lungnickle, Lichtblau and Nechausky. - Mile. Noelie de la Sabiiere, of Parls says mere is a reviving .interest in house decorations in Paris. The first paralyzing, stunning effect of the war is lessening and the artists are be ginning to work again, but nothing bizarre or startling, no sharp . con trasts nor splotches nor daubs or color are being shown, but rather a re turning to the more refined types of the historical French periods. This influence may have its effect on Paul Poiret, who has the Martine School in Paris. In the past it has been said that he was following too closely the methods of the Munich schools and being & loyal Frenchman he will, no doubt, turn away from all semblence to anything German. School of Deslam Is laiqae. This Martine school of design is unique. Its work is done by a revo lutionary method. The pupils are nearly all of the lower working class and enter this school at the age of 10 and 12 years. They are left entirely to their own resources in working out their art. There are no tuition or critics. They are not told what is good nor what is bad. They simply work as they please, then M. Poiret visits the,. school. And selects -what "iie'-con- "kss" 1 j- - z ; I -mv- -wr.-. siders worth while and it is reproducer absolutely as the child designed it by professional workmen and thus our futurists designs or what looks much like them. A child paints a flower with no shading of color and it is re produced in the fabric just as painted. This school is named for M. Poirefs daughter, Martine, who was a baby when the idea of this school originated in his mind and it is his thought that the school will grow and develop as she grows, but just now we are getting the crude simplicity of design and color that is barbaric; however, it is coming nearer to nature and away from all preconceived notions of art and one wonders what it will do for ' the future work in design and color. Poking Observatory. London Standard. It is believed that he observatory at Pekin is the oldest in the world, hav ing been founded in 1219 by Kublai Khan, the tlrst Emperor of the Mogul dynasty. After Vacation Peel Your Discolored Skin i Women returning from the peaaide with browned, reddened or freckled complexionr will be wise in immediately taking: up the mercolized wax treatment. Weather beaten skin bad best come off. for no amount of .beautifying" will ever make such skin pretty to look at. The aureau safest, easiest way to shed the despoiled cuticle is with the treatment suggested. Put the wax on before retiring, as you would cold cream, and rinse it off next morning with warm water. Minute par ticles of scart skfn will peel off day by da, gradually showing the healthy, youthful skin beueath. Cwe ounce of mercolized wax obtainable at any drug store, is enough to make any discolored or spotted com plexion eleer, white and satiny soft. Its actiou is so gentle no injury la caused and the face shows no trace of its use. But ning heat. Irritating winds and dirt are such wrinkle-makers that the daily ut of the following a stringent-tonic lotion at this season is highly advisable- Powdered, naxolite. l uz MssIvel in witch hazel, i. pi. I'sed as a face bu,lh this Is a vima- did wrinkle-remover' aaci .preventive. i.