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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (July 18, 1915)
TTTT: SUNDAY OREGONTAX. PORTLAND, JULY 18, 1915. the hatbrim and Its beak catches the veil's edge. This is a pretty notion for one of the new sport veils In white trellis or octagon mesh when the tiny bird imitates a white dove. On the lines of the smock coat for morning wear is a short smock flip to take the place of a breakfast Jacket or morning blouse. These short smocks fall just to the hip and a have a lose belt to hold the loose.' smocked garment In trim lines on the figure. The smartest models are of white or tan khakl-kool. an all-silk pongee, with the smocking done by hand with brown or leaf green silk. Elbow oleeves and a low turnover collar mtko the smock comfortable on Summer morn ings. Among the advance styles In Fall footwear is a dainty dancing boot of glased kid with large pearl but tons. The fad for laced boots is passing and the buttoned boot, high enough to hide its upper edge under the short skirt, which promises to remain the mode. Is the favored style with best dressed women. GENERAL NEWS OF WORLD INCLUDES ACTIVITIES OF WELL-KNOWN WOMEN Vice-President's Wife Declared Exceedingly Good Housekeeper Wiife of Governor Slaton Exhibits Fortitude in Trying Situation Mrs. Rice, of Cleveland. With Fiive Marriageable Daughters and $11,000,000 Cuts Swath. NEW TRIMMING NOTE IN BRIDGE AND THEATER COAT ON REDINGOTE LINES Suggestion Given for Wearing Apparel That Will Make Large Women Look Slender and Advice la to Avoid All Bright Conspicuous Colors, as They Tend to Exaggerate One's Appearance. Camping Garb May Have Finished Smartness. 6 I r'V W ..firm f '"-..'..-' : -l y llf '. .-. '.: - .-. ; ; 52 . ! .,-.tjIJ ''A T Mkr "TV.,.,-, , 'ZL" &4 4. rrfM.viywi.;..: .... ; r IT -would be hard to find a better tailored suit for the woman who must coneider the importance of lines with utmost discretion in order to look as slim as may be. This is an advance Fall suit, showing the new, longer coat, in M-hich flatlji pressed pleats give flare below the waist. Flat pleats appear in the skirt also, and this skirt hangs particularly well. It is not too short for dignity, yet it does not hide the good-looking walking boot with top of cloth buttoned with flat, rather large buttons. The style -of the coat is mannish, with notched collar and lapels. If the woman who must make "slim lines" her eternal watchword can find a Fall coat cut excellently, she may indulge her fancy for plaid or checked material, with limitations. A coat very pleaelng in harmony of tones combines Hack, white and two shades of green in a warm wool mixture. The flat pleats from shoulder to belt, merging Into pocket motifs, the cut of the sleeves and the length of the-garment,- all tend to make this coat becoming to a woman of stout figure. The collar buttons high at the neck a Fall Tea ture. Trie woman inclined to stoutness of figure makes a mistake - in wearing tight bodices which cruelly repeal her departure from slender proportions Better far is a type of frock which dis guises the curves of bust and back under a graceful, long-waisted bodice, dropped to a broad girdle which en circles the hips. The pleated skirt is also excellent. It falls to the ankle but reveals well-fitting buttoned boots sufficiently for smartness. The frock. a trotter model, is of navy blue pussy willow taffeta. Week-Bef ore Hints Given for June Brides. IteeularHy of Food Important Mat ter for Hride-to-H to Watch. Hair Attention Vital, Also. K :if t ill f IV? lt ! -r f m i,- -. y.-. -' . .!!' 7.x ...... - .- ' iv (i ft' . V :':...-: '.v- ':.. -5- f Vj. ...... 7 'fJv . . ; ' - x ::... VJiii5t)vJgKNr-' " ' : w'1 ..::'. .-":;. .,.'': V ! ..... -.. . ' r- . - rv i Vadereoat Will Be Warm With Very Manalaa Shirt of Thin Flannel or Tub Silk Bloomers Shall Itrplace l'rttleoats. yHOUGH many people believe that Jk Old ciotnes are me proper ining rear in the wilds, there is no reason why any woman should make a fright of herself just because she Is roughing It 400 miles from civilization. ome of the tailored camp costumes shown In the shops are as smart as formal street attire, though they allow for more plc turesqueness of detail than would be In good taste on the street. If the camp is not pitched too far north, select coat and skirt suit of brown khaki with tan leather belt and low-waisted coat. having snappy patch pockets. For a colder latitude a similar suit of brown corduroy will be comfortable and at tractive also. Under the coat will be worn a man nlsh shirt of thin flannel or tub silk. Fussy-willow shirting In narrow striped patterns or in white Is a favorite for such outing blouses, which, in all cases, have collars that may be thrown open and decorated with the loosely knotted scarf or 'kerchief affected by ama teur campers. Petticoats should be dis pensed with and replaced by bloomers of some light but sturdy material like pongee or mohair. Khakl-kool, which all-silk in weave and has strength. combined with lightness, is the idea fabric for such bloomers. The smar buttoned boot of town must be replaced by stout-soled tramping footwear. Such boots are laced and should be supplemented by leather puttees when a long hike through brambles and ove rocks is in prospect. The camping hat Is preferably o felt, with a supple brim that can be dragged over the -eyes to protect from sun and over the neck to protect from trickling raindrops. A woman who de tests mosquitoes and the deadly midge of mountain camps Is taking along one of the big mantilla veils, which may be thrown over the head and hut falling below the shoulders all around. This smart adjunct of town she Intend to make use of in camp and undoubted ly the big square veil will serve to keep insects at safe distance from he complexion, as well as adding some thing of chic to her smart camping cos tume. White Golfine Coats Are "All the Rage." Vkttwoa Mar Wear Small, Mmart-Tallored Hat Draaed With Veil, bat Hat and Veil tthonld lie . Snawy White. w HITE golfine coats with low belts, big pockets and collars that fasten up snugly about the throat are smart with yachting dresses of white linen. The yachtwoman may wear a small, smart tailored hat draped with a veil, but hat and veil should be snowy white, like coat and frock. The large sampan veils of white trellis mesh with dainty border are ideal for yacht Ing. An arrangement of elastic holds the veil securely to the hat and it folds blow about the face and shoulders in the brisk sea breeze. The open trellis mesh does not disguise the features as docs a chiffon veil, but It erves to keep the hair trim and tidy, which is the chief purpose of a yachting veil. 9mm Dathing rorsets of rubberized fabric co.ne only to the waist at the back, ex tending four or five Inches below In front to give the derlrabie trim, flat line to the figure. Garters are attached to this lengthened front, though the woman who swims usually wears round garters of silk elastic as the other sort hamper the leg stroke In swimming. The corset Is usually a well-fitting rub berized waist which, without constrict ing the figure, gives neat, trim lines beneath the pretty bathing dress of satin, mohair or pussy willow silk. f : n - .-I . ; ;- ' 7 mi ! 7 7 7 . ....---7 - ' . II II- - tT "vi1 HI . - 'I " i-: ? I f II II aw" , I'L . A 1A - : 17'.' , ' I 1 v , : -i I t' I ) I I r AgfrSoerarX?- Z I', 1 ' J ,-V I ; t i - yJi I' l si . . I Ml U - ' I : J - i l i f s - - - -. r ; n I V 7 V U- ! r 7!a- - IA I ' vN " NEVER forget that every time you go to bed with your face tired it will be that much plainer on the wed ding day. Bring it around first . with hot-water packs clothes dipped in hot water and then wrung out these laid on and renewed often for quite 15 min utes. Massage the skin with cold cream first, and if the soap wash Is taken after the steaming use cream afterward. The hot-water cloths are also ex cellent for putting in shape a throat that has been abused with high stocks and linen collars. Use two small towels, folding them first and dipping them In the water and wringing them, one at the front of the throat, the other lap ping over it at the back. Steam the chest, shoulders and back of the neck In the same way so that they will ac cord with the reviving throat, and after the steaming rub in glycerine and rose water. If the throat or face needs to be definitely bleached, it is best to use a simple whitener such as would be sup plied by a cucumber or lettuce lotion formulas for which have . often been given here. A lotion much .simpler to make than either of . these, however, and which is quite as good, follows this formula: Tincture of benzoin... 'bounce Tincture of vanilla .2 dram Roaewater, triple 3 pint Mix the tinctures and add the water to prevent precipitation and curdling; this should be a milky emulsion. It is good for sunburn, roughness and for cooling the unnatural flush caused by excitement on the wedding day, and should be put on all over the face and throat so as to make the bleaching even. ;.. The bride-to-be must look well to the regularity of her food if she ex pects lotions and drops, etc., to be of much avail, 'for all 6f these things must; be -aided by nature. Merely through neglect in the matter of eat ing in the" last weeks before her mar riage many a girl has fainted at the sltar. On the wedding day especially the girl who fears she might get nerv ous should eat a good and substantial breakfast, even if the morning cere mony is to be followed by a midday feast. The hair must be shampooed a week before the wedding so that It will be in condition for a pretty arrangement. But if on the important morning It still seems unmanagable use a little good brllllantine when combing back the fronts and under the back, for this will keep the locks trim and effect a handsome gloss. Alcohol or violet wa ter. when freshly applied will do the same thing, and none of these will in terfere with the waving. . BruEh the hair well on the wedding morning, or ge somebody to do it. for this will start the-flow of- natural oils needed land remove any dust - that may have lodged eince the shampoo and which would certainly not improve the look of the wedding veil. Terry Cloth Coats Latest for Wear on Beach. Flag Hatpins Summer's Patriotic Trinket Short Smock Coat Ap pears High Cilaaed Kid Ilaarlaa; Hoot ew One. KV YOKK. July 17. Mrs. Thomas It. Marshall, the wife of the Vlce- 'resldent of the United States. Is esteemed a remarkablo housekeeper. Perhaps that Is one reason why the Vice-Pi esident Is contented with being the fifth wheel in the (iovernment p.itimii. r.r rhii. nUn. aiiiMi.H I wagon. Mrs. Marhall was iois at the edge, are admirable for wear I Kimsey. of Angola. Ind.. when she mar under transparent frocks. There are 1 rei the future Vice-President In 18S5 also nainsoon petticoats witn double front and back breadths, but these seem clumsy and bulky for Summer wear. A petticoat of white pussy wil low silk trimmed with a flounce seal loped by hand at the edge Is the best sort of petticoat for Summer wear un der thin frocks, and if the silk Is laun dered carefully it should retain Its sonwy whiteness as long as the petti coat lasts. Chocolate Set for Porch in Blue and White Attractive. Adaptation of Japanese lalnt Deala;a Favorite, and Kaary May lie Car ried Oat In Uoltlrs. OTHIN'G Is prettier for serving Summer refreshments than blue and white china, and a chocolate set of this color will be alluring for the breakfast table or the porch tea table. The tail Jug and six graceful cups re tinted In a pale grayish blue with a design in deeper blue straying over the gray-blue surface. The pattern Is an adaptation of the Japanese palm design, to be found on blue and white Japanese toweling, and to the artistic housekeeper will be suggested at once SMART on the bathing beach this Summer are terry cloth bath coats which are slipped on over the wet bathing costume when the air is a bit chilly. These coats' fall Just to the edge of the short bathing dress and are belted quite low on the hips. They have big pockets and broad collars that may be turned up about the neck. In red and white terry cloth or blue and white, they are attractive and are assuredly the thing, from the numbers of them that have been observed at fashionable beaches. over stunning bathing dresses of satin and taffeta silk. . '-. Flag hatpins are the patriotic trin kets of the Summer. One may suit one's personal leaning In patriotism, for flags of (all warring nations are shown; but of course no American maid who is conscientious about being "strictly neutral" will combine any other nag with her Stars. and Stripes hatpins. Another novelty in Summer Jewelry is a tiny pin in the shape of a bird which holds the veil at the hat 1 brim's front. - The bird is attached to Mrs. John Slaton Is the wife of the Governor of Georgia, who recently commuted the sentence of Leo Krunk, and she was with him In their mansion. near Atlanta, when it was besieged by mob. She showed remarkable forti tude in the trying conditions. The sensation of Southampton "the little Newport" is Mrs. William Ixwe Klce. Mrs. Rice came from Cleveland to New York recently, bringing five marriageable daughters and about $11.- 000.000. She has entertained lavishly at one of the principal hotels, wnere she has a suite of is rooms. This Summer she has taken a house at Southampton and is entertaining large house parties In a most lav Is n a. i The expression of personality Is the key to Interior decoration, says Mrs. Samuel Swift, one of New lorki fore most decorators. She helped so many of her friends with suggestions for the decoration of their homes that the gravitation Into a business career was natural. Decoration has become more and more woman's work In recent years and Mrs. Swift has distinctive Ideas which have found wide appreciation. She is now on a trip to see what the West needs In the way of - artistic decoration. Mrs. Swift is English by birth and the English home appeals to her as the special development of per sonality In decoration. English homes. she says, express generations oi good taste and as their decoration repre sents so many generations of selection they are not necessarily pure penoa. The French style is much more favored In this country, but Mrs. &wi:i noias that It is more formal than the English. Mrs. Sherwood Aldrlch. of Southamp ton wife of a well-known mining man y r nrc worn for molorins nnd ssilini;. but in no way d they r pla-- the while .-port t-"il 'r silk mrii'-r worn on golf r l mils court with Into lin-n f ro ks, lust mats for lh- car nre khakl-kool. a licht hut Isrni all-silk mc with t!i tfXture of pon:-e or rs.tnh Mlk. In fully or nd color, with !. of the H;miuii sport vi'il of white nladora uu-sli. such a com Is tnart indeed for country motoring on .- warm day. tine of the Mriklnit wrddinc form of June was an Hiikle-lenicth modtl whi h hnu si the fei-t fr.tnkly. The i tlt-cant-e iind ex penslvfiiess of this wed . liintr Kown partly made up fnr Its un ; oiiveimoiinl letictti. for its material ! was the richest lvnry-t inted coldenrod js.-itln. drapttl in a scalloped tunic over i a petticoat of point Iu hesse lace. The 'long slteves were of t!us costly lace. and a bolero of it fell over the Inch waistline. From the shoulders, at back, fell the lonu tram of goltleniwd satin, and over thi.i the wonderful point lace veil. ThoiiKli the la.-e petticoat was short, the train, curving around the feet as the bride received her quests, gave the gown an effect of regulation length. TO make pulled crumb out of ill FD r-t? IQX721 : X "v. :; In Soft II I uea. Chocolate Set Is for Iorch. ............. woman hunters of tjlg game, has come to New York after a hunt In Africa and Is making her home for the time in the big city, surrounded by pet tigers and other trophies of the chase. Lad y Mackenzie went on her last ex pedition for the express purpose of getting moving pictures of wild anl mals in their native surroundinss and she brouitht back with her a series of remarkable films. One of them shows Lady Mackenzie and one of her ihlef shooters standing before the charne of a three-ton rhinoceros until, at a dis tance of only -3 feet from the camera. he was brought down by a bullet from an express rifle. pulled bread, pull pieces of fre:-.ly baked loaf. hen bake these pieces in a q'lick oven ill brown. To make a filling for hickory-nut ake. whip cream very stilf. sweeten ami flavor to tustn and add nuts cut uther fine. Olives and phrlmps chopped together make an excellent s.tlad. with the ad dition of mayonnaise. A girl with clever fingers can make good little shirtwaist bows out of her brother's castoff ties. A stub pen can be used in an emer gency for tip:. lining ino tiny screws in a pair of eyeglasses. A red brick kitchen floor will keep- beautlfully clean and red If a drop of paraffin oil be used in the water it is washed with. Small Boys Brownie Suits of Khaki Galatea. Late Sport Coata for Summer Are Smart In Proportion to Their Sim ilarity to Man'a Coat. the thought of Japanese toweling dol lies and the blue paim docorated choc olate set in combination. This cotton toweling comes In rolls of ten yards at about 10 cents the yard and makes admirable tray cloths. doilie and small serviettes for breakfast or luncheon table. Kaffles" case and a "society burglary." Mr. Aldrlch decided to make the facts public. One of the pretty debutantes of this year In Marie Thayer. She Is the sec ond of three daughters of Mr. and Mrs. Benjamin B. Thayer, who have a beau tiful home on East Seventy-ninth street In the Fifth-avenue district. Miss Thayer's mother was Marie Ucneuard. member of n old French family. - Lady Mackenzie, one of the famous O KOWNIE suits for the small boy are D of khaki colored galatea with big buttons of brown bone. A tight-fitting little coat has a broad, high belt with two breast pockets above, the coat fas tening far toward the left side. At the back there la a section or pleating which starts below the shoulders and extends under the belt to the coat edee this irive the uarment a aaucy flare at the back. The breeches are aa Ugh as breeches can be without bursting the seams, and they come two Inches below the knee, three bone buttons run ning up the outer side. With this quain lirownte suit goes a wide-brim aailo of white milan. trimmed with a band of wide brown groscrain ribbon. Tan buttoned boots and white or natural silk socks match the costume. The more like a man's coat the Sum mer sport Is. the smarter Its aspect. 1 has patch pockets, wldo raglan sleeves and strapped trimming, and it is of mannish wool mixture, usually In brown and cream, blue and black, green and black or black and gray. These coats Handy Hints for the Home The number of shee;, estimated to have I t n nhum last n n."'i in Aunrllli inl New Ze.lnna ess 6' r'4. hlrh pro- luced seven pountt n 1U1 te,e PUUCfl rmrn heart, inrlu-.lns; Urnbs. am admit seven pound, for I h. tre Iim.s ..oti DARKEN GRAY HAIR, EASY, New Treatment Not Harmless. SAFE a Dye. If your hair is gray, streaked with gray, prematurely ot Jjst turning gray; if your Lair Is faLtng; If you have danaruff and your head Itches, simply shampoo your k!; and hair a few times with Q-Uan Hair Color Kestorer. Nothing else required. In a day or so ail your gray hair will . rn to Its nat ural youthful dark shade." Entire head of hair wiil become clean, fresh, lus trous, wavy. Ihlcic. soft, full of life, dark and handsome. M-Uan Is harmless, is not a dye. Also stors Itching cs!n and falling hair. t;et a big 7-oz. bottle for I0 cents. ArPl" as directed on bot tle. If W-Kan dun't ilarken your gray hair, il'e relur.ded. Call or write hunt ley Drug Co, Portiand. Or. Out-of-town fOiKa supplied by parcel post. dt.