TTTT: SUNDAY OREGONTAX. PORTLAND, JULY 18, 1915.
the hatbrim and Its beak catches the
veil's edge. This is a pretty notion
for one of the new sport veils In white
trellis or octagon mesh when the tiny
bird imitates a white dove.
On the lines of the smock coat for
morning wear is a short smock flip to
take the place of a breakfast Jacket
or morning blouse. These short
smocks fall just to the hip and a have
a lose belt to hold the loose.' smocked
garment In trim lines on the figure.
The smartest models are of white or
tan khakl-kool. an all-silk pongee,
with the smocking done by hand with
brown or leaf green silk. Elbow oleeves
and a low turnover collar mtko the
smock comfortable on Summer morn
ings. Among the advance styles In Fall
footwear is a dainty dancing boot of
glased kid with large pearl but tons.
The fad for laced boots is passing and
the buttoned boot, high enough to
hide its upper edge under the short
skirt, which promises to remain the
mode. Is the favored style with best
dressed women.
GENERAL NEWS OF WORLD INCLUDES
ACTIVITIES OF WELL-KNOWN WOMEN
Vice-President's Wife Declared Exceedingly Good Housekeeper Wiife of Governor Slaton Exhibits Fortitude in
Trying Situation Mrs. Rice, of Cleveland. With Fiive Marriageable Daughters and $11,000,000 Cuts Swath.
NEW TRIMMING NOTE IN BRIDGE AND
THEATER COAT ON REDINGOTE LINES
Suggestion Given for Wearing Apparel That Will Make Large Women Look Slender and Advice la to Avoid All
Bright Conspicuous Colors, as They Tend to Exaggerate One's Appearance.
Camping Garb May Have
Finished Smartness.
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IT -would be hard to find a better
tailored suit for the woman who
must coneider the importance of
lines with utmost discretion in order
to look as slim as may be. This is an
advance Fall suit, showing the new,
longer coat, in M-hich flatlji pressed
pleats give flare below the waist. Flat
pleats appear in the skirt also, and this
skirt hangs particularly well. It is
not too short for dignity, yet it does
not hide the good-looking walking boot
with top of cloth buttoned with flat,
rather large buttons. The style -of the
coat is mannish, with notched collar
and lapels.
If the woman who must make "slim
lines" her eternal watchword can find
a Fall coat cut excellently, she may
indulge her fancy for plaid or checked
material, with limitations. A coat very
pleaelng in harmony of tones combines
Hack, white and two shades of green
in a warm wool mixture. The flat
pleats from shoulder to belt, merging
Into pocket motifs, the cut of the
sleeves and the length of the-garment,-
all tend to make this coat becoming
to a woman of stout figure. The collar
buttons high at the neck a Fall Tea
ture.
Trie woman inclined to stoutness of
figure makes a mistake - in wearing
tight bodices which cruelly repeal her
departure from slender proportions
Better far is a type of frock which dis
guises the curves of bust and back
under a graceful, long-waisted bodice,
dropped to a broad girdle which en
circles the hips. The pleated skirt is
also excellent. It falls to the ankle
but reveals well-fitting buttoned boots
sufficiently for smartness. The frock.
a trotter model, is of navy blue pussy
willow taffeta.
Week-Bef ore Hints Given for
June Brides.
IteeularHy of Food Important Mat
ter for Hride-to-H to Watch.
Hair Attention Vital, Also.
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Vadereoat Will Be Warm With Very
Manalaa Shirt of Thin Flannel or
Tub Silk Bloomers Shall Itrplace
l'rttleoats.
yHOUGH many people believe that
Jk Old ciotnes are me proper ining
rear in the wilds, there is no reason
why any woman should make a fright
of herself just because she Is roughing
It 400 miles from civilization. ome of
the tailored camp costumes shown In
the shops are as smart as formal street
attire, though they allow for more plc
turesqueness of detail than would be In
good taste on the street. If the camp
is not pitched too far north, select
coat and skirt suit of brown khaki with
tan leather belt and low-waisted coat.
having snappy patch pockets. For a
colder latitude a similar suit of brown
corduroy will be comfortable and at
tractive also.
Under the coat will be worn a man
nlsh shirt of thin flannel or tub silk.
Fussy-willow shirting In narrow striped
patterns or in white Is a favorite for
such outing blouses, which, in all cases,
have collars that may be thrown open
and decorated with the loosely knotted
scarf or 'kerchief affected by ama
teur campers. Petticoats should be dis
pensed with and replaced by bloomers
of some light but sturdy material like
pongee or mohair. Khakl-kool, which
all-silk in weave and has strength.
combined with lightness, is the idea
fabric for such bloomers. The smar
buttoned boot of town must be replaced
by stout-soled tramping footwear.
Such boots are laced and should be
supplemented by leather puttees when
a long hike through brambles and ove
rocks is in prospect.
The camping hat Is preferably o
felt, with a supple brim that can be
dragged over the -eyes to protect from
sun and over the neck to protect from
trickling raindrops. A woman who de
tests mosquitoes and the deadly midge
of mountain camps Is taking along
one of the big mantilla veils, which
may be thrown over the head and hut
falling below the shoulders all around.
This smart adjunct of town she Intend
to make use of in camp and undoubted
ly the big square veil will serve to
keep insects at safe distance from he
complexion, as well as adding some
thing of chic to her smart camping cos
tume.
White Golfine Coats Are
"All the Rage."
Vkttwoa Mar Wear Small,
Mmart-Tallored Hat Draaed With
Veil, bat Hat and Veil tthonld lie
. Snawy White.
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HITE golfine coats with low
belts, big pockets and collars
that fasten up snugly about the
throat are smart with yachting dresses
of white linen. The yachtwoman may
wear a small, smart tailored hat draped
with a veil, but hat and veil should be
snowy white, like coat and frock. The
large sampan veils of white trellis mesh
with dainty border are ideal for yacht
Ing. An arrangement of elastic holds
the veil securely to the hat and it
folds blow about the face and shoulders
in the brisk sea breeze. The open trellis
mesh does not disguise the features as
docs a chiffon veil, but It erves to
keep the hair trim and tidy, which is
the chief purpose of a yachting veil.
9mm
Dathing rorsets of rubberized fabric
co.ne only to the waist at the back, ex
tending four or five Inches below In
front to give the derlrabie trim, flat
line to the figure. Garters are attached
to this lengthened front, though the
woman who swims usually wears round
garters of silk elastic as the other sort
hamper the leg stroke In swimming.
The corset Is usually a well-fitting rub
berized waist which, without constrict
ing the figure, gives neat, trim lines
beneath the pretty bathing dress of
satin, mohair or pussy willow silk.
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NEVER forget that every time you
go to bed with your face tired it
will be that much plainer on the wed
ding day. Bring it around first . with
hot-water packs clothes dipped in hot
water and then wrung out these laid
on and renewed often for quite 15 min
utes. Massage the skin with cold
cream first, and if the soap wash Is
taken after the steaming use cream
afterward.
The hot-water cloths are also ex
cellent for putting in shape a throat
that has been abused with high stocks
and linen collars. Use two small towels,
folding them first and dipping them In
the water and wringing them, one at
the front of the throat, the other lap
ping over it at the back. Steam the
chest, shoulders and back of the neck
In the same way so that they will ac
cord with the reviving throat, and
after the steaming rub in glycerine and
rose water.
If the throat or face needs to be
definitely bleached, it is best to use a
simple whitener such as would be sup
plied by a cucumber or lettuce lotion
formulas for which have . often been
given here. A lotion much .simpler to
make than either of . these, however,
and which is quite as good, follows
this formula:
Tincture of benzoin... 'bounce
Tincture of vanilla .2 dram
Roaewater, triple 3 pint
Mix the tinctures and add the water
to prevent precipitation and curdling;
this should be a milky emulsion. It is
good for sunburn, roughness and for
cooling the unnatural flush caused by
excitement on the wedding day, and
should be put on all over the face and
throat so as to make the bleaching
even. ;..
The bride-to-be must look well to
the regularity of her food if she ex
pects lotions and drops, etc., to be of
much avail, 'for all 6f these things
must; be -aided by nature. Merely
through neglect in the matter of eat
ing in the" last weeks before her mar
riage many a girl has fainted at the
sltar. On the wedding day especially
the girl who fears she might get nerv
ous should eat a good and substantial
breakfast, even if the morning cere
mony is to be followed by a midday
feast.
The hair must be shampooed a week
before the wedding so that It will be
in condition for a pretty arrangement.
But if on the important morning It
still seems unmanagable use a little
good brllllantine when combing back
the fronts and under the back, for this
will keep the locks trim and effect a
handsome gloss. Alcohol or violet wa
ter. when freshly applied will do the
same thing, and none of these will in
terfere with the waving. . BruEh the
hair well on the wedding morning, or
ge somebody to do it. for this will
start the-flow of- natural oils needed
land remove any dust - that may have
lodged eince the shampoo and which
would certainly not improve the look
of the wedding veil.
Terry Cloth Coats Latest for
Wear on Beach.
Flag Hatpins Summer's Patriotic
Trinket Short Smock Coat Ap
pears High Cilaaed Kid Ilaarlaa;
Hoot ew One.
KV YOKK. July 17. Mrs. Thomas
It. Marshall, the wife of the Vlce-
'resldent of the United States. Is
esteemed a remarkablo housekeeper.
Perhaps that Is one reason why the
Vice-Pi esident Is contented with being
the fifth wheel in the (iovernment
p.itimii. r.r rhii. nUn. aiiiMi.H I wagon. Mrs. Marhall was iois
at the edge, are admirable for wear I Kimsey. of Angola. Ind.. when she mar
under transparent frocks. There are 1 rei the future Vice-President In 18S5
also nainsoon petticoats witn double
front and back breadths, but these
seem clumsy and bulky for Summer
wear. A petticoat of white pussy wil
low silk trimmed with a flounce seal
loped by hand at the edge Is the best
sort of petticoat for Summer wear un
der thin frocks, and if the silk Is laun
dered carefully it should retain Its
sonwy whiteness as long as the petti
coat lasts.
Chocolate Set for Porch in
Blue and White Attractive.
Adaptation of Japanese lalnt Deala;a
Favorite, and Kaary May lie Car
ried Oat In Uoltlrs.
OTHIN'G Is prettier for serving
Summer refreshments than blue
and white china, and a chocolate set of
this color will be alluring for the
breakfast table or the porch tea table.
The tail Jug and six graceful cups
re tinted In a pale grayish blue with
a design in deeper blue straying over
the gray-blue surface. The pattern Is
an adaptation of the Japanese palm
design, to be found on blue and white
Japanese toweling, and to the artistic
housekeeper will be suggested at once
SMART on the bathing beach this
Summer are terry cloth bath coats
which are slipped on over the wet
bathing costume when the air is a bit
chilly. These coats' fall Just to the
edge of the short bathing dress and
are belted quite low on the hips. They
have big pockets and broad collars
that may be turned up about the neck.
In red and white terry cloth or blue
and white, they are attractive and are
assuredly the thing, from the numbers
of them that have been observed at
fashionable beaches. over stunning
bathing dresses of satin and taffeta
silk. .
'-.
Flag hatpins are the patriotic trin
kets of the Summer. One may suit
one's personal leaning In patriotism,
for flags of (all warring nations are
shown; but of course no American maid
who is conscientious about being
"strictly neutral" will combine any
other nag with her Stars. and Stripes
hatpins. Another novelty in Summer
Jewelry is a tiny pin in the shape of
a bird which holds the veil at the hat
1 brim's front. - The bird is attached to
Mrs. John Slaton Is the wife of the
Governor of Georgia, who recently
commuted the sentence of Leo Krunk,
and she was with him In their mansion.
near Atlanta, when it was besieged by
mob. She showed remarkable forti
tude in the trying conditions.
The sensation of Southampton "the
little Newport" is Mrs. William Ixwe
Klce. Mrs. Rice came from Cleveland
to New York recently, bringing five
marriageable daughters and about $11.-
000.000. She has entertained lavishly
at one of the principal hotels, wnere
she has a suite of is rooms. This
Summer she has taken a house at
Southampton and is entertaining large
house parties In a most lav Is n a. i
The expression of personality Is the
key to Interior decoration, says Mrs.
Samuel Swift, one of New lorki fore
most decorators. She helped so many
of her friends with suggestions for the
decoration of their homes that the
gravitation Into a business career was
natural. Decoration has become more
and more woman's work In recent years
and Mrs. Swift has distinctive Ideas
which have found wide appreciation.
She is now on a trip to see what the
West needs In the way of - artistic
decoration. Mrs. Swift is English by
birth and the English home appeals to
her as the special development of per
sonality In decoration. English homes.
she says, express generations oi good
taste and as their decoration repre
sents so many generations of selection
they are not necessarily pure penoa.
The French style is much more favored
In this country, but Mrs. &wi:i noias
that It is more formal than the
English.
Mrs. Sherwood Aldrlch. of Southamp
ton wife of a well-known mining man
y
r
nrc worn for molorins nnd ssilini;. but
in no way d they r pla-- the while
.-port t-"il 'r silk mrii'-r worn on golf
r l mils court with Into lin-n f ro ks,
lust mats for lh- car nre khakl-kool.
a licht hut Isrni all-silk mc with
t!i tfXture of pon:-e or rs.tnh Mlk. In
fully or nd color, with !. of the
H;miuii sport vi'il of white nladora
uu-sli. such a com Is tnart indeed for
country motoring on .- warm day.
tine of the Mriklnit wrddinc form
of June was an Hiikle-lenicth modtl
whi h hnu si the fei-t fr.tnkly. The
i tlt-cant-e iind ex penslvfiiess of this wed
. liintr Kown partly made up fnr Its un
; oiiveimoiinl letictti. for its material
! was the richest lvnry-t inted coldenrod
js.-itln. drapttl in a scalloped tunic over
i a petticoat of point Iu hesse lace. The
'long slteves were of t!us costly lace.
and a bolero of it fell over the Inch
waistline. From the shoulders, at back,
fell the lonu tram of goltleniwd satin,
and over thi.i the wonderful point lace
veil. ThoiiKli the la.-e petticoat was
short, the train, curving around the feet
as the bride received her quests, gave
the gown an effect of regulation length.
TO make pulled
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ill FD r-t?
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In Soft II I uea. Chocolate Set Is
for Iorch.
.............
woman hunters of tjlg game, has come
to New York after a hunt In Africa
and Is making her home for the time
in the big city, surrounded by pet
tigers and other trophies of the chase.
Lad y Mackenzie went on her last ex
pedition for the express purpose of
getting moving pictures of wild anl
mals in their native surroundinss and
she brouitht back with her a series of
remarkable films. One of them shows
Lady Mackenzie and one of her ihlef
shooters standing before the charne of
a three-ton rhinoceros until, at a dis
tance of only -3 feet from the camera.
he was brought down by a bullet from
an express rifle.
pulled bread, pull pieces of
fre:-.ly baked loaf.
hen bake these pieces in a q'lick oven
ill brown.
To make a filling for hickory-nut
ake. whip cream very stilf. sweeten
ami flavor to tustn and add nuts cut
uther fine.
Olives and phrlmps chopped together
make an excellent s.tlad. with the ad
dition of mayonnaise.
A girl with clever fingers can make
good little shirtwaist bows out of her
brother's castoff ties.
A stub pen can be used in an emer
gency for tip:. lining ino tiny screws
in a pair of eyeglasses.
A red brick kitchen floor will keep-
beautlfully clean and red If a drop of
paraffin oil be used in the water it is
washed with.
Small Boys Brownie Suits of
Khaki Galatea.
Late Sport Coata for Summer Are
Smart In Proportion to Their Sim
ilarity to Man'a Coat.
the thought of Japanese toweling dol
lies and the blue paim docorated choc
olate set in combination. This cotton
toweling comes In rolls of ten yards
at about 10 cents the yard and makes
admirable tray cloths. doilie and small
serviettes for breakfast or luncheon
table.
Kaffles" case and a "society burglary."
Mr. Aldrlch decided to make the facts
public.
One of the pretty debutantes of this
year In Marie Thayer. She Is the sec
ond of three daughters of Mr. and Mrs.
Benjamin B. Thayer, who have a beau
tiful home on East Seventy-ninth street
In the Fifth-avenue district. Miss
Thayer's mother was Marie Ucneuard.
member of n old French family.
-
Lady Mackenzie, one of the famous
O KOWNIE suits for the small boy are
D of khaki colored galatea with big
buttons of brown bone. A tight-fitting
little coat has a broad, high belt with
two breast pockets above, the coat fas
tening far toward the left side. At the
back there la a section or pleating
which starts below the shoulders and
extends under the belt to the coat edee
this irive the uarment a aaucy flare
at the back. The breeches are aa Ugh
as breeches can be without bursting
the seams, and they come two Inches
below the knee, three bone buttons run
ning up the outer side. With this quain
lirownte suit goes a wide-brim aailo
of white milan. trimmed with a band
of wide brown groscrain ribbon. Tan
buttoned boots and white or natural
silk socks match the costume.
The more like a man's coat the Sum
mer sport Is. the smarter Its aspect. 1
has patch pockets, wldo raglan sleeves
and strapped trimming, and it is of
mannish wool mixture, usually In brown
and cream, blue and black, green and
black or black and gray. These coats
Handy Hints for the Home
The number of shee;, estimated to have
I t n nhum last n n."'i in Aunrllli inl
New Ze.lnna ess 6' r'4. hlrh pro-
luced seven pountt n 1U1 te,e PUUCfl rmrn
heart, inrlu-.lns; Urnbs. am admit seven
pound, for I h. tre Iim.s ..oti
DARKEN GRAY
HAIR, EASY,
New Treatment Not
Harmless.
SAFE
a Dye.
If your hair is gray, streaked with
gray, prematurely ot Jjst turning gray;
if your Lair Is faLtng; If you have
danaruff and your head Itches, simply
shampoo your k!; and hair a few
times with Q-Uan Hair Color Kestorer.
Nothing else required. In a day or so
ail your gray hair will . rn to Its nat
ural youthful dark shade." Entire head
of hair wiil become clean, fresh, lus
trous, wavy. Ihlcic. soft, full of life,
dark and handsome. M-Uan Is harmless,
is not a dye. Also stors Itching cs!n
and falling hair. t;et a big 7-oz. bottle
for I0 cents. ArPl" as directed on bot
tle. If W-Kan dun't ilarken your gray
hair, il'e relur.ded. Call or write hunt
ley Drug Co, Portiand. Or. Out-of-town
fOiKa supplied by parcel post.
dt.