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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Feb. 21, 1915)
TITE SUNDAY OKEGOXTAX, PORTLAyD. FEBRUARY 21, 1915. CHILDREN'S STYLES ARE FOLLOWING CLOSELY THOSE OF THEIR ELDERS Practical Coat for Girl of 11 Years Made of Black and White Worsted in Large Checked Pattern Higher Waist line Appears and Collars and Cuffs Increase in Size. f ' 5' " I I""! y v" " ' iDwP tli fill L . -i 5 - It .!,' -ff- ?5 v-js , - vV4'f iff-TL I . o 5t !- &P""'-i i f J ? i il ?vv',,il!Jw&' i -4 j, t- !,! -v',",!MelfllR5? I-? s - f vCci-f 14 i I '"!' C2fiiHs5.1 1 I - fc-. Jk. is. "",K?iif I s5ri 1 ; - -1 - . o5, '''. siJJiiif ?liiSilif3 THKHE is unmistakable smartness and newness about the practical coat for a girl of 10 or 11 years. The material Is black and white norsted in the rather larse checked pattern now especially fashionable. Col lar and cuffs are of dull, green suede leather. The ball buttons are covereu with this lull green suede, as is also the oblons belt buckle. The belt is held by invisible Bnap-fasteners under the buckle and at the point of the tab end. The bias-cut pockets are a smart feature of this coat. With widened skirts, children's coats how higher waistline.', exactly as do the i-oats of women. The upper part of this coat of putty-colored moire poplin is srarcfly more than a deep yoke. Bands of flatly stitched silk braid and amber buttons Ttnjted with onyx trim the coat effectively. The fullness is confined at the back, where the mate rial is gathered along the yoke. The black buttoned boots and simple hat denote a costume intended for every day and not dress wear. Much of the style in a new childish costume is due to the bis collar and cuffs of striped pique, edsed with Iritih lace. The pique stripes are deep blue, matchins the blue shade of the coat and the buttons are of smoked pearl. Hijrh placed pockets susjrest the raised waistline, although the coat is a sim ple, flare model, lapped at the front and closed with snap-fasteners under tho ornamental buttons. Smart boots. wears the little lady, boots of' shinin patent leather with buttoned tops putty-colored kid . of How to Clean Ribbon Told. Kibbon or silks may be cleansed ly washing them in the following manner: A verv thick iather of castile soap and lukewarm water is made and the riD ter until clean, smoothing it all th while through the hanU. Kinso well in several supplies of tepid water. The last rinsing water should have a tablespoonful of methylated spirit to a quart of water. Jf a slight stiffening is required a little gum arabic dissolved in hot wa ter, boiled rice water, or a cup of milk can be added to the last rinsing water. After rinsing the ribbon or silk it should be spread on a smooth towel, pulled into shape and folded in a towel. It should be left this way till it is nearly dry. A piece of white mUslin is then placed over it on the ironing hoard and the Ironing should be done over the muslin:-if the iron touches the silk it makes it too shiny. Some silk or satin waists can be ironed on the wrong side. Care or Shoes Necessity. The care of the shoes is an absolute necessity with the new fashion of short dresses. The laced shoe has come in again for both morning and afternoon wear, though the type varies. For morning the vamp has a finish of dull tan or black leather, with a light fawn or tan top. For afternoon the vamp is of patent leather and the top is of paler shades, is trimmed with a bit of the patent leather and is altogether a more decorative type of boot. Cigar Aiihea on Carpet. Exchange. A woman will tolerate a mewing cat all day, and then become impatient with her husband during the few hours f hnmn in the evening. (Note: Above was written by a persecuted me riu- ' - . . , oohoa on h,.r, or silk dinD ih this. This should husband wno aru?v v, tw thrust in and drawn out of the wa- the carpet last mgnw CHILDISH PLAY OR SCHOOL COAT HAD BETTER BE BOUGHT READY-MADE Economy Thus May Be Realized-Garments for Little "Women" Have Seasonable Smartness, Embracing Mili- tary Features the Same as for "Grownups." TIOL'HH many mothers still take pleasure and find profit in mak ing up the children's small frocks in the home sewing-room during Len ten weeks, It is the exceptional mother, brave and self assured in her skill with ccissors and needle, who essays to build a childish coat. There is a smart ness, a snappy style about even the least expensive of the ready-made models that is beyond the endeavor of the average home dressmaker, and when costs of material, time, the ex pense of a seamstress-by-the-day, and nervous energy are computed, the ready-made coat is apt to be by far the more economical choice. It is wiser, at any rate, if expense must be raved on the little girl's outer gar ments, to make up the formal coat of tilk or other high-priecd material at borne, and to buy outright the school and play coat at JS to $10 price. These manufactured coats can be of fered at moderate cost since so many hundred models of each style are turned out. The most expert designers, in touch with latest and most authorita tive style-inspirations, are employed, and materials are bought in quantity at about half what the individual mother would pay over the counter. Every lit tle coat, however simple in type, has Its seasonable smartness of style. Its ckillful trick of rut. its new and un usual details of trimming, and the wise mother is willing to pay for these things, economizing if need be on some other branch of the childish wardrobe not o conspicuously in evidence as the coat. Check Worntrdu In W Fnvor. There is a pleasing freshness and Fpringlike suirge.'t'on about shepherd checks and mothers find these fabrics satisfactory for Childish coats because soil traces are not especially dtscern able on the mixed ground as they would be on plain material. The martest checked coats for little girl hood this year are simple' in style, a Kay lining of bright colored silk furn ishing color contrast rather than brok en patches of color in silk trimmings. IVautifully cut in the new flare ef fect is a shepherd checked mohair coat for a tot of five. The checked pattern is in black and white and the only trimmings on the coat are some large flat pearl buttons, so close together that they touch, arc grouped above the waistline on the front. A snap-fastener also holds one of the belt-tabs over the sash so that the latter need not be un tied when the coat is removed. This smart little mohair coat is lined with the soft Dutch blue pussy willow eilk and to match the coat, there are two sets of pique collar .and cuff belong ings; one set of white pique embroid ered in blue silk, and the other set of blue and white striped pique embroid ered in white cotton floss. Coat In Leather-Trimmed. Or block-checked worsted in choco late brown and white is a good-looking coat for an older girl of 11 years. This coat has a turned-down collar and narrow, turned-back cuffs of buff suede. Buttons covered with the suede and a suede belt buckle give added style and individuality. The coat has a high-placed belt, dropped an inch or two below the armpits and the skirt flares in circular effect. Two pockets of exaggerated size, cut from the checked material on the bias, are set below the belt at either side of the front. The coat is lined with green pussy-willow silk. A blue serge coat for a girl of ten has also the high-placed belt and a flare cut below, while over shoulder and arm the fit is close though not in the least binding or tight. This coat is immensely military, with cord loops over brass eagle buttons down the front as far as the belt, and a gilt belt clasp that imitated the double clasp of the naval officer's belt. A lining of red goldenrod satin adds the final touch of regimental dash. With this delightful coat the lucky little girl will wear a regimental turban of blue mi lan trimmed with a cockade of pleated red ribbon, and her boots will be the fascinating new "Little Trooper" boots of patent leather, wit5 red cloth tops and brass eagle buttons. TInr Glrl Provided For. Charming coats for little girls are of pussy-willow taffeta, all shlrrings, puffings and ruffles. Sometimes the entire skirt of the coat is of over lapping ruffles.' the belt taking the form of a knotted girdle. Other girls wear more dignified coats of moire poplin, mohair and worsted mixture and faille classique, a soft yet substan tial faille weave that has great luster. Plum and peacock blue are favored shades with mothers of exclusive taste. Sand-colored and putty-colored coats are also seen in abundance, but these last two shades soil very easily and though fashionable, are not very prac tical for little people. The girl of 10 wears her coat just over the bend of the knee and the hem of the frock does not show below the coat. Smaller girls of three to seven wear coats short enough to reveal the turn of the knee and also an inch of dainty frock beneath the coat-edge. When the girl has reached her teens even before, if she is well grown and tall for her age her coat drops mid way between knee and ankle and her frock is an inch shorter, so that it may not show below the coat. With the smart Spring coat, my little woman will wear white stockings of fine but not sheer cotton or of heavy white silk and buttoned boots of white buck skin or of black or tan calf or patent leather. Some mothers put short socks on their children as soon as the sprout ing crocuses promise Spring, but it is safer to abide by the long stockings until warm weather is really estab lished. Small Hats for Childhood Also. Like her mamma, this Spring, the little maid has a rather 'small, chic hat, worn a bit forward to shade the eyes. Some of these hats, with narrow rolled brims and high crowns of straw and silk, are exceedingly smart. Mili tary effects are seen also, and all childish hats are most simply trimmed, with tailored bows or cockades of rib bons, or with tiny flower or fruit clus ters posed against a band of velvet ribbon. New mushrooms for Spring are of beautifully fine mllan straw with a fluted or ripple brim. Silk hats of pussy-willow taffeta with pleated frills and trimmings of velvet ribbon and grape clusters, or small chenille vegetables are especially gooa styie. Silk Case Suggested to Pre serve Veils. When Gossamer Fabric Begin to (iroiv Limp, Value In Style I NOW that, veils are so fashionable, and every well-dressed woman has half a dozen or more different sorts of veils to take care of, the resourceful needleworker is busily evolving con venient receptacles in which to keep them. One veil may be folded up. thrust through with a pin, and tossed into the top bureau drawer; but when there are six or seven veils to look after, disaster will certainly follow this method. And the moment a veil becomes crushed and tangled up among half a dozen of Us fellows, its freshness and becomingness is ruined. Veils are impalpable things. Fresh ness is their chief charm and when that Is gone, the veil, no matter how expensive it was. had better be thrown away. The fashionable veil of the mo ment Is especially sheer and gossamer like of fabric; it is also crisp when per. fectly fresh. The moment it begins to grow limp so that it will not float out correctly from the hat, its value from a stS'le standpoint has departed. The best way to keep a number of veils spie and span is to have a long veil case of cretonne or silk, in which the veils may be kept, each folded flatly over a separate piece of cardboard. When the veil Is removed from the hat, fold It immediately around the card board, which should be long enough to reach from one edge of the veil to the other. The case should be a little longer than the cardboard strips and a little wider than their width say about 5 inches wide- by 18 long. It may be made of any dainty, flowered silk or of cretonne matching the dress er belongings. If desired sachet may be sprinkled on the strip of cotton sheeting laid between cover and lining, and the case should be closed with snap-fasteners to keep out the dust Such a veil case, just completed, is of pink goldenrod satin to" match a pink boudoir, with a lining of paler pink pussy willow silk. A narrow band of gold galloon finishes the edges of the case all around and two snap fasteners hold the envelope flap in place. Subdued Tone Suggested for Military Frocks. Flowered Organdies Are Bock In Fashion Norfolk Is Smart Coun try Club Coatume. THOUGH Army blue seems the color of colors for a new Spring suit on military lines, these suits are really much more distinctive in the natural tones, which are known as sand, wet sand and putty shades. The military suggestion of such a costume in bright Army blue is really a little too obvious and suggestive of light opera; but these suits in sand or putty, ev-'.n when trimmed lavishly with frog ornaments, braid and eagle brass but tons, are fetching and correct. Color is added by a petticoat of bright pussy willow silk and vivid cherries or ber ries glowing through the invariable veil draped over the small hat. Flowered organdies are back in fash ion and every woman will want to have two or three of these charming frocks this Summer. Very lovely effects mav be obtained by mounting the flowered organdie over thin silk. The silk need not necessarily match the tint of the flowers at all; for instance, a lavender-flowered organdie is mounted over pale pink pussy-willow silk; a rose flowered organdie is mounted over faint lilac, and so on. Black velvet ribbon sas'hes are much fancied with these pretty costumes and the sharp note of b,lack seems to make 'the soft colors of the organdie all the softer and more dainty. , For smart country club costumes in Norfolk style there is a new silk ma terial called Khaki-Kool. which comes In various crisp weaves resembling shantung and rajah pongees and in smart shades -of sand, putty, dread nought gray and in pearl and -cyster white. These costumes are very sim ple and very smartly tailored, with belted coats above- wide circular skirts. The natural shade of the Khaki-Kool is sometimes matched by natural, silk stockings; stockings to match the dark and light gray shades are also care fully selected for wear with black pumps or boots. This Khaki-Kool has a virtue of springing up, however it is crushed, and will without doubt be fancied also for Summer motor-coats. Clever Heel Device Added to New Outing Shoe. Footwear for Sport l'e Has Flat Lines as In Co-ed Styles, but Pre cautions for Health of Wearer Are Taken. LOOK closely at a new outing shoe for tennis, golf, yachting and gen eral country-club wear and one will perceive that the -foot in such a shoe does not rest flat about the sole, but is lifted considerably by a clever heel device set between the shoe itself and the rubber sole. Despite the comfort and delight of flat-soled outing shoes, they have been found dangerous to the health of their wearers and to the con tour of the feet, for the heel-less shoe offers no support to the delicate arch Outing; Shoes no I.onacer Endanger A rota of Foot. under, the Instep, and onco this arch has become weakened ever so little, dis astrous results follow. This new outing shoe corrects the fault of the old-style, flat-soled model, although the comfort of the latter and the informal characteristic lines have been retained. The outing shoe is of white buckskin and Russian leather, with a sole of rubber or leather, as its wearer may choose. Wicker Basket for Garden Tools Is Unique. Useful and Ornamental Article Is Recommended ns Kastrr Gift for Woman Who I.Ikes to Potter Out THE woman who loves to potter 'about her garden will be over joyed to receive as an Raster gift one ot fhe really luxurious tool baskets of wicker and leather, which are exceed ingly practical affairs, though they probably would arouse some scorn in a professional gardener of the sterner sex. The basket is of natural wicker, lined with colored leather and is a roomy affair 12 inches in diameter and 12 Inches deep about the size of an ordinary bucket. Over the top curves a stout wicker handle, by which the basket may be carried on the arm. In leather pockets around the inner side of the basket are various neces sities of the fair gardener's avocation, paskages of twine, rolls of fine wire, snipping scissors, cutting shears, and so on; and in the center of the basket are the requisite tools, spade, trowel, gardening fork, small rake and the like. If the gift ha3 too practical a look, in spite of Its substantial cost, roses, tulips, orchids, or any preferred flowers may fill the basket, their stems hiding the tools and the inten tion of the basket from the recipient at first plance. Paper Curlers at Klght. Atchison Globe. Sent in: "A woman will make her self hideous with a thousand paper curlers in her hair and carbolic acid and grease on her face, and then won der why her husband prefers to call on some sweet-scented creature with pink ribbons ' on her dress. 5 WOMEN FIND WAY INTO NEWSPAPER HALL OF FAME BY THEIR STATIONS Mrs. R. L, Beeckman, Wife of Rhode Island Governor; Mrs. T. P. Gore. Blind Senator's Mate, and Texa F.xccu- tive's Wife Pose for Photographer. i ifyi T: sift? ' ,v - 8 lM$r: ' Yr' -?&$r 'i . . i - 'uv; S-n' h : I ! - -, ... f V. Gore jT ' V t .-1 A 1 v - i 1 - , x-;- f J 1 ' . V ' NEW YORK. Feb. 20. (Special.) The first lady of Rhode Island is Sirs. R. Ij. Beeckman. Her hus band is a member of an old New York family and is -one of the most promi nent residents of Newport. He went in for politics recently and at the last election was chosen Governor of his state. Mrs. T. P. Gore, the wife of the blind Senator from Oklahoma, is one of the leaders in the Congressional circle at Washington. She was Nina Kay. She married Mr. Gore when he was a resi dent of Texas in 1900. Her home since iam hn heen in Lawlon, Okla.. most of her time is spent in Washing ton. Miss Hatine Lasc.mitch. who is a member of a distinguished Serbian fam ily, is now in New York" trying to raise funds for poor Serbians. She -is a lead ing suffragist. Since the war began she has been working in the hospitals of Belgrade and other cities. She came over with Mrs. Slavko Grouitch. an American woman, who has returned to raise a Serbian relief fund. . Mrs. James E. Ferguson is the wife of the new Governor of Texas and dis penses the hospitality cf the new state administration at the Governor's man sion in Austin. It promises to be a lively season socially in the Texas cap ital. The inaugural ball was the big gest function of its kind ever seen in Texas. Mrs Lewis Buckley Stillwell, the wife of the eminent consulting engineer, is spending the Winter in New York at the Plaza Hotel. Mrs. Stillwell. who was Mary K. Thurston, lived in Pitts burg for many years and was con spicuous in the social life of that city, but her home in recent years has been "Thorwald" at Lakewood, the fashion able colony in New Jersey. 90 miles from New York. How to Save Kettles and Pans Is Told. Though Expensive to Begin With. Aluminum Is Ueclnred to Give Best Service In Knl Knnmeled Pans Require Care Also. SAUCEPANS and kettles arc a con siderable item in the hardware ac count. If they are taken care of, how ever, they will be found to last a long time. Different metals need different treat ment. Aluminum is an ideal metal for pans. It is rather expensive to begin with, but will be found economical in the end. It is a good investment. Pans made from this metal must be carefully washed and cleaned. Wash aluminum vessels as soon as they are done with as far as the cooking is concerned. Wash them well with soap and water. On no account use soda; this will turn the metal black. To clean aluminum mix whiting into a paste with water. Rub on, and polish off well. This will make them beauti fully bright. Enameled pans also need care or the enamel cracks and chips off. If any food has caught in an enamel pan, steep it in water for a little while. Do not scrape the burn off, for this in jures the enamel. Dip a cloth in salt and gently rub the burned parts. This will bring it off without injury. As a rule, wash them with hot water and soap, both inside and out. Iron saucepans will stand wear and tear fairly well: soda in moderation will not hurt them. When iron, sauce pans are greasy, remove as much of it as possible with paper, then burn the paper. Wash the pan inside and out with hot water and soap, to which a lump of soda has been added. First of all remove with an old knife all soot that may have accumulated at r X iiinnioniii. This will polish tlirin bcnu. tifully. Never allow tin- flume of a gas Jet to come out beyond t ls nr: f 1h.- kottlo. the bottom of the pan; this not only makes the contents of the pan a long time in cooking but wastes gas and tire, as the soot prevents the heat pet ting to the pan. Whifn the pan has been, thoroughly washed go over it both inside and out with a cloth dipped in silver sand. Rinso thorough ly, wipe out. and place on a rack to drv. See that iron saucepans oiy thoroughly, or rust results. Kettles need cleaning at intervals, nlihnnirh thev are only used for water. Sometimes a kettle will get lined with "fur." It should then be cleaned in the following way: Put about a teacup of unslaked .lime into the kettle: fill up ,ith water and boll It for about an hour. Emnty. rinse the kettle again and again; finally boll some fresh water in it to clear all trace of the lime away. Iave water in the kettle all night. If this pours off clear in the morning the kettle is safe to use. Kettles should never be left for any length of t me with water in mem When going away empty them thnrniifrhlv and turn tliem upside down. i,.i., them in . a dry place. To prevent a kettle furring place a small marble or pebble in it. and keep one In alwavs. This Is a good, plan both for an iron and enamel kettle. Tin kettles are useful, in .that they boil nuickly. but their life is not long. To orolonc their days keep them dry when not in use. Watch that there iu no siicn of rust inside or out. To elean' din a cloth In whiting and WW STOMACH UPSET? END GAS, SOURNESS-PAPE'S INDIGESTION, DIAPEPSIN In Five 'Minutes! No Stomach Misery, Heartburn, Gases or Dyspepsia. You can eat anything your stomach craves .without fear of indigestion or dyspepsia, or that your rood win ier ment or sour on your stomach, if you will take Pape's Diapepsin occasion ally. Anything you eat will be digested; nothing can ferment or turn into acid, poison or stomach gas. which causes belching, dizziness, a feeling of fullness rir eating- nausea. Indigestion tlike ( a lump ot lead in stomach), bilious ness heartburn, water brash, pain In stomach and Intestines. Headaches from stomach are absolutely unknown where Pane's DiaDepsin Is used. It really does all the work of a healthy stomach. It digests your meals when vour stomach can't. It leaves nothing to ferment, sour and upset the stom ach. Get a large fifty-cent case of Tape's Diapepsin from your druggist, then eat anything you want without the slightest discomfort or misery, beside every particle of impurity and gas that is in your stomach and intestines will vanish. Should you be .suffering now rrom Indigestion or any utomach disorder, you can get relief in fiv minutes Adv. GetThisSetofThree Calendars Free Thr hcauiiful ralrnriats ideal drrnralioni lf jour boudoir, librarv or Hen. 1 hrr are printed In olt. nunc colors on heavy art paper, (Sua 4H by 11 Kindly tend Se In rntr wrapping and mailing. GouraucFs Oriental Cream The ideal liquid face powder baa been the favorite on two Cootinrnta lor nearly three quarters ol a century. FERD. T. HOPKINS k SON, fr.pt. 37 Grl Jmi SrrrM. Nw Vetf LET ME REMOVE YOUR Send this FREE ..t-- -ial " Baa1'"" 1". "'1 iw ' iiffr rl hm 4iflciirrJ With trrwMdMM fiiirrl ro. I mm ewt- I ftthr mMxtitf. Ynu mi tr r mm S? 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