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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Feb. 21, 1915)
0 BELT FASTENED UNDER ARMS GIVES NOTE OF NEWNESS TO LITTLE COAT Rich Russian Green Moire in Faille Weave Used for Coat for Dress-up Wear-Another Spring Model Is of Shepherd Checked Worsted and Has Flare Out and Modish Sleeve Set Into Small Armhole. A SINGLE note of novelly like a belt, fastened directly under the arm. jrlves newness and a know-in- suggestion to a new little coat on conventional lines. The material is brown and white-striped worsted in bedford cord effect and the coat collar is faced with sand-colored pussy wil low silk. Be buttons form the only trimming. Besides her smart Sprine cost, the little Rirl wears a new fluted mushroom hat of cream milan. trimmd with brown velvet ribbon and rosebuds. ' Jler white stocking and buttoned boots of buckskin match a white frock, con cealed by the coat. For dress-up wear, obiously. is a late model of rich Russian creen moire in faille weave, with belt and cu.s of plain preen faille classtque outlined in white- satin. The wide, double belt made of two lapplnB strips of the fa lie classique. is a smart feature of trtm-mln- The handsome trreen moire coat falls just below the frock and the whit buttoned boots and stockings add to the dress-up effect of the costume. The hat Is a new poke shape of natural straw, trimmed with a cluster of ber- rlNothin?r is quite so smart as shepherd-checked worsted for the PP''"S coat of childhood. A graceful new model has a flare out and the modish coat sleeve set into a small armhole. Tn RIGHTLY PLACED TOUCH KEY TO HOUSEKEEPING Effectiveness in Arrangement, Cleaning and Adjustment Do More to Make Home Attractive Than Much Labor. A WOMAN who is an excellent housekeeper was discussing an ac quaintance who never seemed to Bet her housework done. "She's not effective." explained the cod housekeeper. "She-ll work half an hour or more iustlne and straightening up a room and when he is done, it will not Cive the effect of being In order. She flutters about her house H day long doing this and do ing that and at night she is worn out and yet her house will be more or less in confusion Barbara Boyd. She doesn't do the effective things. , th-Of course, every housekeeper wants to run her house her own wa went on the good housekeeper, and I have no desire to thrust my methods on otI rrs. Only 1 know that my house is "can and orderly and that I do . not epend all my time on my housekeeping. Eye Catcher In Disorder. "Tou are the wonder of all your friends." I said, warmly. For it Is quite true that her house is always a P'ture of order and beauty, her table a flight in its cooking and service, let she inends a small amount of time upon her household duties as compared with most housekeepers with a home and family of the size of hers. One trouble with our friend s house keeping." went on the good housekeep er "is tht she doesn't have the things :. ' . i ji.,Mv rirh the eye in good THAI 1 ill -- - " - -- - order. The things that stand out most prominently in her room are usuau, ... confusion. She sweeps and dusts "and washes windows till she is exhausted. . . . . h.r house vou no- tire that her center table is littered with odds and ends, the fireplace untidy with ashes and bits of wood, the vases filled with faded or dead flowers. Ion don't see or think of the windows. Ton , . .. th Hi.Rtless condition n the chair rungs. You only see the odds .H mdi. the ashes, the faded flowers. Th.tr tnd out the most prominently L-t. x.tt't do the effective things, you I thought or tne sps w.m. ....... rooms of the vases of flowers always o laced in Just the right spots to give the most artistic background, of the new books and magazines invitingly laid upon the table. I really couldn't sav if her windows are always clean and her chair rungs dusted. There are so many more attractive things to hold the eve that few people who go to her home"waste time on window-panes and chair-rungs. ArtUtle Arrangement Key. Not but what her window-panes and ehair-rungs probably aro immaculate. She is not one of the housekeepers who believe in half doing things or playing a hypocrite's part in housekeeping or anything else. Nor. do I believe in pre 1 Tit O?0 ?zTo coat is lined with Belgique blue pussy willow silk, which shows in the fac inRS of the off pocket-flaps from which emerges the sash ends of blue-golden-rod satin. White pearl buttons and collar and cuffs of pique embroidered in blue complete the coat. A hat to go with it is a blue pussy willow silk, to match the coat lining, with a velvet band and pink rose. tense. The point she was making is that you can spoil your best efforts by not doing the effective thing, and that if you do not grasp tnis iaci j work and work and never get the re- ....i wont The nther housekeeper realizes her house is not what she wants it to be. She keeps feverlsnuy clean ing, hoping in some way to remedy the deficiency. Then she scatters letters, business cards, the hanUDins tnrown in, nails, tack-hammers, anything and vervthinir that come to hand in the course of the day, all over everywhere and of course this eriect spoils an me T -V V f x j Ml Hi! nMI I I If' mm i i ' I WW Msmsry&eG PATRIOTIC PARASOLS TO BE POPULAR IN STYLES Summery Creations Made of National Colors Mounted on Black Enameled Wood Design to Be in Favor With Khaki Kool Silk Suits. t XEW RED, "WHITE A O BLl'E PARASOL FASHIOJIABIB. i EVEN without the stars, a red, white and blue parasol is unmistakably patriotic. Near the top are red and white stripes; the center of the cover is made up of blue and white blocks, and red and white blocks and red and white striping appears again at the edge. Pussy-willow taffeta, striped in red and white and sections of golden rod satin in plain color make up. the results of a dusted room. The other walks through her rooms, gathers up as she goes all articles out of place, gives a pretty twist to a scarf, straightens a picture, adds an extra pol ish to a table top, perks up a rose in a vase so that it stands at an alluring angle and in five minutes her room is perfect, because her touch in each case had counted in most effective fashion. The other has killed even the good things she has done. This one has brought to life even a dead background. If you aren't getting the pretty re sults in your home that you wish per haps this housekeeper's suggestions may be of value. Look about and see if in your house you are doing your work in the way to count most ef fectively. Are the pictures hung where they will give the most pleasing re sults? Are rthe chairs placed where they are most inviting and cosy? Does the library table tempt to reading, or the fireside to pleasant musing? Every article in our homes has a purpose or should have. Does it fill that purpose in the happiest manner? WOMAN' POSES AS DEAD St. I.ouisan Trying to Prove Her Kight to $12,000 Estate. . ST. LOUIS. Feb. 16. Mrs. Surilda Mary Adamson, of Dewey Station, near Belleville, has had her photograph made in Zahn's studio. East St. Louis, as if she were dead, to prove that she is the sister and heiress of George Hite Cook, who died leaving $12,000 in Oak land, Cal.. in 190S. Because no one knew his heirs, his photograph was made after death. When he had been dead two years his property, which was in cash, was, ac cording to the laws of California, paid into the state treasury, but it will not become the property of the state for 20 years. Meanwhile search was made in the vicinity of St. Louis for families of the name of Hite, and that of Luke Hite, an East St. Louis attorney, was found. Cook had resided in St. Louis and cover. The parasol handle is of black enameled wood, with a blue cord loop to slip over the wrist. With tailored suits of putty or sand colored covert, and with more Summery suits of the excellent new Khaki Kool silk, which is something like richly woven pongee, these gay red. white and blue sunshades will strike a vivid and pleasing note of brightness. Vrr--.r , j r li aiiiiiiiiiiiij Carondelet at one time between 1865 and 1S74, ana Deiore mat imu uccu -resident of Caseyville. 111. Attorney Hite advertised In St. Louis papers for anyone who could recognize the signature of George Hite Cook, and his advertisement was answered by Mrs. Adamson who said that he was her brother, but that he and her hus band had quarreled about politics shortly after the war and she had not seen her brother since. George Hite Cook was born in New York in 1840. Not long before his death he was known to possess $60,000, with which it is thought he bought land. Attorney Hite thinks that Mrs. Adamson has almost completed the proof of her relationship to Cook, but proof of knowledge of the signature is said to be necessary Half-Worn Velvet Makes Pretty Pillow Covers. Nnmeroun Other Wan of Utllljilnit Discarded Dress Arc Offered In House Decorations. WHEN the velvet frock has reached its very last stage and may no longer be steamed or draped it may still serve a useful purpose to cover couch pillows. Many persons think that velvet for house decorative pur poses is not at its best until it is more than half worn, and instead of paying large prices for "antique'' pieces or the fabric or the extra sums asked for the velvet which has been made old by the artifices of commerce, the housewife, with an eye to artistry in house decoration, may use up her old velvet frocks to advantage. For couch pillows, small table covers, desk pads, table mats to go under lamps, portfolio covers, etc.. the old velvet is perfectly satisfactory. Even when only comparatively small pieces are good enough to use they may be sewed together in strips and the seams covered with narrow gold braid or tiny bands of satin. While the dark col ored velvets, wine, dark blue, dark green dark violet, etc.. are usually Sdered more attractive - tot house fittings, black velvet is at the moment quite as desirable. The present Passion for the accentuation of the black note in house furnishing makes the black velvet couch cushions, table mat. etc., pntirelv suitable. . , . Naturally the black material cannot be used in very large pieces without creating a too sombre effect, but when Se up with gold brjld and fringed or .trapped - with band- ot bro4"d fooking covert Another way of using the velvet to create rich effects in pil Jow col erings or for tne ocr purposes mentioned is to make " the back ground of the cover against wmcn fre appliqued small bright co lore d de signs cut from brocade or tigured satin 0rFootVrest pillows also may be made of velvet. They generally have n ob ? ', taoestry. a third smaller. In theffcenter.P andy' their length corre- PtZTt the eaemsQwoue,d be in the conven tnat ie oc i-.- hut very charming "nal. rPiamde where the Yearns cross ones are mae w must be some sense 01 u".B... Boyish Coiffure Latest Idea From Pans. Being' More Popular. THE latest Parisian peculiarly boyish appearance to . rf.ii-a rrivPS a byTntaauetnhSJ kind of ha.rdre.sln which8 accompanies he exaggerate simple forage cap. in Mwk. ve vet or astrakan. The general effect s distinct lv attractive, though it must tie aa milled that it savors of the eccentric. The Tittle side curls which Span""?" Jail '-cnuletas" are still much worn, out these curls are now cut short and almost in a straight line. A to tne success of the forage cap, it is im- scirmTnlUcap shares with thl velvet tricorne al. the m.l.tary ho ors of the wimer -- .- Pretty model, designed by one of the most celebrated milliners in Paris, was made of astrakan. with a soft crown of prune velvet, and at one side was a V c'Bter ot Prun.-colored grapes covered wiBU."" aDes The leaves wmi-" 1 , - - -xne icovco satin. This was a were made of black satin. beautiful model ana , not fall to oe . , . A well-known Paris milliner.' who is much appreciate uy SrVSv 5 nivesanrVopr This rather ru.iar shape has already had considerate succesa ...... whether it will be accepted by the many remains to oe i""' A cocked hat was made of dull vio- lot velvet ten wim-n ni ;-.-''. shaped brim' caught up by tarnished silver ornamenm. - took the form of large rosettes made of silver loops and the hat was worn far down on the head, little hair show ing on the forehead. Indeed, it may be accepted aa a fact that fringes unless they are extremely soft, are out of fa vor for the moment. . . 1 1 no nrn rnntin- aome preny rno.uii uing to patronize the picturesque, coif fure launched by the beautiful Mile. Forzanne, the coiffure which leaves a sort of half fringe falling on one side of the forehead while the hair is drawn back on the other side. But this style of hairdressing demands a young and pretty face Little Girls' Object Lesson. Atchison Globe. An Atnniann wnman returned home yesterday and found her little daugh ter teaching a younger orotner nuiv i brush his teeth. "You shouldn't have given him your toothbrush, dear,' said ho woman, "it isn't sanitary." "I didn't." replied the girl, "I gave him vours. SOUR STOMACH, COLDS, HEADACHES REGULATE YOUR BOWELS 10 CENTS Turn the rascals out the headache, biliousness, constipation, the sick, sour stomach and bad colds turn them out tonight with Cascarets. Don't put in another day of distress. Let Cascarets sweeten and regulate your stomach; remove the sour, undi gested and fermenting food and that misery-making gas: take the excess bile from your liver and carry off the de sT lO frllWl PRICE 10 CENTSJ FULL SKIRTED FROCK IS OF PUSSY WILLOW GREEN Taffeta Is Decorated With Hand-Painted Butterflies in Colors of Black and Orange. fit"' - - ; f'3 ." j 'Aui i5! u W N it ."-V . ; i 11 1 h 1 l :Cpt 'til . tt, $i V ' w. 'Ar ft Hi R II 'l i ! J v h " t if f'l . a. &r i v . , .;v M- . , rZ 'six f li VICTORIA5T MODES REVIVE USST willow green taffeta, with hand-painted butterflies in DiacK and orange written across its sur face, is used for an enchanting full skirted costume of the late Victorian nrn A "DHTT TT? P? IN NEW SPRING WAISTS Open Neck Is Comfortable and Improves Shape of Throat and Compromise . Collar Is Also Suggested. HE r,m Spring sewfng on which HE first fepring senine v, v. ,-.t--i rirpssmaker BUUIilu start is to make herself most of the separate waists she will need dur- T U . n a rn r a ing the coming season. iucao Domilar as ever for utility as Veil as p F more formal use, and the girl who has a generous supply and some weu-cui skirts will look well-dressed for all daytime occasions. The new waists aro quite different from those of last Summer. They are more tailored, the sleeves arc usually long, tucks are revived, and the collars are trimmer. The earlier models emphasize tne high collar effect introduced this Win ter but it is doubtful If American women will stand for them when the hot weather approaches. The open neck not only is more comfortable, but it improves the shape of the throat. There is a compromise collar that can be worn buttoned close to the throat or turned into shallow V and revers. Thl3 is an excellent choice for the waists that are worn during exercise. When the neck is cut open it is in a much more shallow and narrow V than last Summer, and the collars fit closer to the back of the neck. Another method Is to have the nigh soit co ar of tho material buttoned to a cnT band not more than a quarter inch deep. For hot weather this permits the neck being turned into a V to which is pinned soft turndown collars. Shoulder Yoke Is Feature. nother feature of the new blouses is the shoulder yoke. Generally this is from three to five inches wide, but composed waste matter and constipa tion poison from the bowels. Then you feel great. A Cascaret tonight will straighten you out by morning a 10-cent box from any drug store will keep your bead clear, stomach sweet, liver and bowels regular and make you feel bully and cheerful for months. Don't forget the children. AS CAR ETS.W0R K WH I LE YOU. SLEEP. ,-Hr Xc- - - . - . - . It HAXU-PAIVTHD FROCK. period. The little coat, lace frilled, is quaintly in keeping, and so is tho braid , ..-utt rfrnnninir brim. Tho parasol, the new Vanity Fair, as it is called, is or pompaaour mnim a trimming of green isricia. TGI QHOWN r w. t i t.w. ... it viin(4 ncross the hack I and I. brought two inches in front of . ordinary shoulder seam. - " Mnrh nn neinsi 1 icn i hk " vogue aa ever. It is especially kouI on the dressier ilk and crepe tiouea anu on sneer cninon, naniunui.ci ...... and batiste. This gives a professional . . t walsi and tho extra cost v.aa ,.h rTnn h.ini Keren ei iui-n aim uaiiiiiui " o look to the waist, and tho extra cost is less than for otner trimmings . ,,.i, u,,)nirr l that much sew ing is dispensed with, as careful hast ing is tho only preparaimn n jiirr for different places and Uitt H, iimiimI cost is 10 PFFVKH nnNSTiPATEn I UU I II LOVE "CALIFORNIA SYRUP OF FIGS" Harmless "Fruit Laxative Cleanses Stomach, Liver and Bowels. Look at the tongue, mother! If coated, it is a sure sign that your lit tle one's stomach, liver and bowels need a gentle, thorough cleansing at once. When peevish, cross, listless, pale, doesn't sleep, eat or act naturally. Ot is feverish, stomach sour, breath bad, has stomach ache, sore throat, diarrhoea, full of cold, give a teaspoonful of "Cali fornia Syrup of Figs." and in Jut a few hours all the foul, constipated Jlrs .M.. Yes. dandruff can bo entire ly removed and destroyed by proper head washing. , However, you must not K.,. I.nrl hsf 1!MC use. anv mas-esn 11 i.-i, ...... something made just for shampooing. as. lor instance, a nmij which will only cost about three cents per shampoo and not only thoroughly remove the dandruff, dust and excess oil but will induce rapid growth or hair dry quickly and evenly as well as leave the hair soft, easy to care for and so fluffy it will look very much heavier than it really is. Vou can easily make it yourself by dissolving a teaspoonful of canthrox (which you can get at your druggists) In a cup of hot water. Phvllis: Many Indolent people are slender, many active people are fat. Kxercise is not the determining cause. It will not add or reduce weight, fedlm ination is the only way. You can re duce and keep Just right by using this home-made, mixture ,:e'4 LUI,';'''' parnotis from your druggist and dis solve it in 1 M: pints of hot water, strain and allow it to cool. Take a tablespoonful three times a day. This is harmless, acts quickly and leaves firm, natural Hues to the figure. cents a vard f"r nil cotton material". 15 cents" for silks and cr. !.. and I cents for chiffons, m-l '! tulle- In preniirlng a blmiee f"r ln-nif I itc'i. ing baste all neams if " w ''' hand. ulng rather closer Miii-he. 1 o not pres open the semr.s. This is iiono for nil rediilar seams sn.l f"r yoke-, for the arinholos and cuffs leave the seams open or the work cannot be done. Kor the large armhole. however, this is unnecessary. Hems aie tiirne.l twice as if for ordinary stitching, but are basted rather more clonely. When the material Is Rathercd t. tn voke. ns Is popular this Sprinit. il i safer to stitch the gathers Mrt on the machine to hold them Arm. After the hemstitching I finished the srsm Is cut as close to the stitching as the material permits. A looselv woven fabric that frays easily must not bo trimmed too close. TlKHue nt Alwajn reHril. I have often seen oew In it' women ad vised to baste tissue paper under thf scums to prevent pullliiK. This is onl necessary for silk nets and tulle, oth er materials hemstitch far better with. out it. t .in., of lmmsiiti-hinK In scrolls row.-, and even design are a feature of manv of the new lressy blouse. r or inm have the design drawn or IjmM on. or for rows measure carefullv and n,arlc all lines with a basting stttrh In a line white cotton thread. An cfte. live use of these lines for one of the plain, er tailored shirtwaist In crepe le chine. linen or wash llks or lanem is i " three rows three-eighths of an men apart on each side of the front ctlns. which mav ho merely iace,i oat o-.t lh Hrst row of stltihlll catches the edge of the f.-ing on the right side; on the left is set .lust enough beyond tne lacing, in- " - little nnrrower man tne oin.i. i.. even when the blouse la closed. Mini lar row are set above the hem on the cuffs and collar and ran also he use.l lntea,l of a single line on the oe. There s wide latltu.le in mm" i" for the new blouses. Most of lli. in an soft, as batiste. mull. handUer. hief linen, cotton voile, crepe do chine and Ueorgette crepe for service, an. I chif fons, nets, all-over lace, either plain or combined with chiffons, satin or crepe for more elaborate use. Theie Is a lustrous, washable taffeta ti at is pop-i..- ...u- uii.l is smmosc.1 to ulv- Bood wear. The newer taiTet. bv the way, do not cut like tne on sun -rleties. t'ottca repr lllone lien. If you expect to travel much tin- c,,..,,,.r u nractiral blouse insy !'' .nA p, ta.-uHh cotton crelte. It will pay to get a pood quality thai does nol wash flat. Wash a a.impio iimv Ing. These need no Iron inn. A good model for such a blouse i-. cut over a plain shirtwaist pattern wnti set-in long slef ves. nnmne.i nn : . i - . i,.ni icinr,i with link cuff luii- tons. If one Is slender, the fronis ma- be shirred slightly at ine snoui.i.. seams. Taste the duck over ine ir turn in the e.lges and stlteh twl. e. on the extreme ede and a half Inch aa. This last stitching catehea the raw o,iir of the front, which Is turned in on the wrong side. The one-piece shltt sleeve is sei in... tho lather loose urmhole wa.iout ful ness. It Is stitched In flat, tho stitch ing n tho outside as In lh yoke. Gather the slight fullness at the han.l Into two Inches and a half at back of arm. Cut the cull oounie, mm. ....... turn In the edges, slip the siee u. between, baste, and stu. h to tnut. h the yoke. Stitch all around the cuff on rlRht side the opening Is at Hie back of the arm. Work a buttonhole on top close to gathers and put a button en the other side of the cuff to cor respond. At tho bottom 'f the cull work a buttonhole on each side or tin stitching Just big enough to h"1d link cuff buttons. ollar Pattern All. One model of blouse Is single-breast -ed and buttons up the fr-nt with sev en pearl or crochet buttons. The ironts aro faced back with the material to the depth of mi inch and u halt, mid the top is squared across Just b. low the hifch collar, which may button or can be fustcned with small pins. Stlteh along the eilgo and half an Inch with in. The wider purt of the racing can be hemmed with invisible stlchea by hand. When desired tills collar turns down Into a shallow roll with narrow revers. Unless an expert cutter It Is wiser to get a pattern for these ad Justublo collars. The bottom of a blouse is finished in various was. Kor the wash ones I prefer to have the fullness gathered Into a narrow band al the waist line at the back, the band being stitched I" tho under arm seams. Tics are a.ble.l to hold In the lullness In front win. Ii tails free. A favorite finish N a three quarter Inch easing at the l.pttnni or the blouse through which Is run an elastic. This should he an Inch less than the waist measure. Kor tho stout figure the blouse may be finished Int" a three-quarter Inch baud t" which Is added a circular tail of the tiiatciul to prevent the blouse riding up. As wash materials shrink badly, with this treatment either make tho blouse longer-waisted tliun usual, or set the c.lgo in the full depth of the band so it may be raised to the top. If necessary, after laundering. Highest Height la HajHom. Kxehanne. A baseball uniform Is a b" 'a notion of tho finest sartorial achievement. Illtiliwar ' Wrpla. From lslO to lsl-1 .Michigan spent J7 2.",a nan on bithw.os waste, undigested food and sour bil gently moves out of Its Utile bowels and you have a well, playful child You needn't coax sick children to take this harmless fruit laxative; they love Its delicious taste and It alwaa makes them feel splendid. Ask voiir druggist for a LO-.-rnt bot tle of "California f-vrup of 1'iKs." which -n-..,-ilr.r. fnr liables. children ol f all ages, and for grown-ups plainly on each bottle. neware m old here, 'let the genuine, made bv California Klg Syrup Company." lie fuso any other kind Mli contempt.--d. CHILDREN The Home Beauty Parlor I list ill-bed: - great manv women have tho sanio trouble with face pow der that vou have. It lies upon tho skin and la easily noticeable, i or this reason I never use powder. Instead I dissolve 4 ounces of spurinnx (from anv drug store! in either pint hot water or witch hazel and add 2 leaspoonf uls glycerine. The skin lakes to thla lo tion naturallv and absorba It ao thai only one application a day Is necessary. Hub gently when applvlng It to lh face, peek and nrins. and do not use more than enoiiRh to cover nicely, ton will find that this lotion u.t only whitens, but it overcomes oillness, pimples and other In Ho annoyances. Worried: Wrinkles aro tho nreli il. strovers of woman's beauty. However, seien.-o haa revealed a remedy. It is no longer necessary for women to endur.i these unsightly ravages of time. I'sn plain iilino.oln cream-Jelly. i ou can make It at home at little expense. Ask voiir druggist for ono ounce ahiio.oin. dissolve il in 's pint eold watei, thtn aod 2 teaspoonfuls of glycerine. Regu lar use of this preparation will eradi cate our wrinkles, tone up your flesh, and make you look surprisingly oun "Kcl'ty Licau's Ucauty Hook, fi. Aiv.
