Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Sept. 21, 1913)
THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX. PORTLAND, SEPTEMBER 21, 1913. ' v DRESSMAKERS COVER UP LINES OF MIDDLE AGE; WOMEN LOOK GIRLISH Plsasing Variety Given to Plain Little Frock of Flowered Silk Back of Dancing Dress Made More Striking Than Other Part of Costume by Drapery That Extends From Shoulders to Floor. WHY is the Nemo Corset the most popular and fastest- irk selling corset in the market here and abroad i BECA USE Nemo Corsets combine exclusive hygienic and fashion features with great durability and perfect workmanship, to such a degree that they are without a rival the leading corsets of the world. PICTURED BELOW ARE A FEW OF THE fndtels In Nemo Corsets ttiat m ' r xixtA . P$l 4-14 :?'-; -if jifP FTER he feminine figure is J kpt to t-xY on too decided curves at the back of the waistline to conform with 'e classic ideal of beauty whh always suggests youth. Dressmaker resort to various devices to give mature figures rthis girlish straightness at the back. One of the most ski lful of such devices is the pabel-sash of pleated chiffon, heavily weighted at the edge, hanging from a point a little above the natural waist line. A soft girdle is swathed around the waist under the panel and the curve at the back is effectually hidden. CLUB WOMEN READY TO MEET AT HOOD RIVER Largest and Most Successful Convention in History of Oregon Fed eration Is Promised. BT MRS. SARAH A. EVANS. (President Oregon Federation of Women's Club) AS the time approaches for the an nual meeting of the Oregon Fed eration of Women's Clubs, the Interest seems to grow daily and pres ent Indications point to the largest and most successful convention in the his tory of the organization. This week has registered 120 dele gates, who have reported to the Hood River committee. This does not In clude those who have made reserva tions at the hotels, which the com mittee reports as being swamped with applications. During the past week all the clubs of the state, a-s well as officers and chairmen of the standing committees, have received the programme booklet, and from every quarter is being re ceived the warmest words of commen dation, not alone for the programme but for the compact way in which all necessary information regarding the convention is arranged. The "made-ln-Oregon" lunch, while originally intended as a bit of social diversion. Is developing into a real fea ture and promises to be a star attrac tion. Several members of the Manu facturers' Association are talking of going up, and have Inquired "if men will be admitted to the lunch." Let It here be known that every session of the convention will be open to everybody who wishes to attend. Anyone may participate in the discus sion of any question before' the house, and will have all the privileges of the convention accorded them except pre senting motions and voting. It is this democracy that distin guishes the. Women's Club from all other organizations. When the reports are read, this year will go on record as the banner year for new clubs. Never before have the acquisitions exceeded five new clubs. This year 12 will answer to rollcall at Hood River. This same prosperity has characterized every department of the federation work. " Mrs. George Schulmerich. in sending the application for the Creswell Civic Improvement Club to Join the State Federation, says: "I must tell you about our Creswell Civic Improvement Club, and what we have accomplished. "The 15th of last March a few ladies met and elected officers to form a cl'jb, and the next day I was informed that I had been elected president, notwith standing I had been home in bed when the honor was conferred upon me. "On April 1 we had our first meeting- and organized a club of 24 mem bers. Work was mapped out that could be done immediately. We have a small plaza in the heart of the town and a committee was ap pointed to see what could be done with It. in the way of planting flowers and putting up swings. We got the electric light company to donate some old poles that were not in use and one of the members sent a team and man to had! them to the plaza. The committee then had ten fine, larg-e rope swings made. Several flower beds were planted and a general clean-up of the place was inaugurated. "The city owned a piece of ground for park purposes, but the underbrush was so thick that a person could hardly get through it. to say nothing of using it for picnics or recreation. "May SI was appointed 'clean-up' flay, and it waa well advertised. We took our husbands and children and clnner with us and equipped ourselves with axes, rakes, hammers and nails, starting for the park early In the morning, headed by the brass band., This street gown of taupe brocade is accompanied by buttoned boots with taupe suede tops. A pleasing variety is given to this plainly made little frock of flowered silk by the sling drapery at the back of the skirt. This form of drapery has been used by Cherult- this season on many of her most charming costumes. In this case the loop of the material comes quite low, giving long lines to a not overtall figure. The blue silk gown is flowerod with red post im pressionist figures. The sash is of plain blue meteor and the chic little velvet hat- has a blue ribbon bow and two pert red quills Just the costume The men chopped and slashed, while the women and children pulled and piled the brush and set great bonfires agoing. "At noon three tables were built and free coffee served to everyone, with a good dinner and a general good time was had. "By 4 P. M. we had two and a half acres cleared, ready for the celebra tion of July Fourth. "On the Fourth we had a parade of 10 floats: we hired the band and had a splendid programme of drills, songs and various amusements. In the even In our home dramatic club, which Is WINDOW DRAPERIES NOW PROBLEM IN THE HOME Two Sets of Curtains Give Most Pleasing Effect Inner Set Should Be of Madras or Lace and Heavier One Silk or Tapestry. ! item t ? ' t " ' , ' Ms--' 5" k I j JUKI.VG THE MOST OF WINDOWS. AUTUMN with Its business of mov ing: from one domicile to anoth er brings up anon the problem of window draperies. To the woman not blessed with the Inestimable eift of a naturally artistic eye, this problem becomes a real and disheartening; one. and Indeed. It Is no easy matter to think out. plan and hang: window drap eries that shall suggest luxury, suit their environment and fit into the lim itations of the family purse. There are two Important first consid erations that govern or should govern the selection of window draperies, whether the window Is to be com pletely veiled and is to serve .merely as a background, or whether It com mands an outlook sufficiently pleasing to be revealed. In, Lh-cU iHLaua for afternoon wear on sunny autumn dava. The back of this dancing frock has not been neglected, and is indeed more striking than any other part of the costume by reason of the flower-bor dered drapery which extends from shoulder to floor. . The arrangement of this draoery is clever. Made of a bor dered liberty silk scarf, it is looped gracefully at the hip and is deeply hemmed at the foot, a weighted layer of thin cotton giving substance to the slimpsy silk. The scarf divides above the girdle. "half being draped over each shoulder to the bustline. Lon gloves of embroidered silk match the dainty frock. a fine one, gave a play to help defray the expenses. Every Beat was sold ana many turned away. We also sold sand wiches and coffee on the ground that dav for the same purpose. "We paid all expenses of the ' day and have $130 left for future work. We expect to plant shade trees ana tlowers In the plaza this year. We have 50 rose bushes promised for our depot Dark and plaza. "We now have a membership of 50. "The Commercial Club co-operates with us and Is very helpful. The two clubs have Joined to beautify the depot park and if you ever pass through Cres well you will see the effects of our work. "We also have placed three garbage cans on the streets." "We are now trying, through the club, to get electric service one or two mornings, so we can use our electric irons and vacuum cleaners. Our eleo trlce service at present is only till mid night, and, in Summer, not at all In the mornings. "The club meets the first Tuesday of the month. We expect to bring up the i. 1 - J T5- are intended to admit llht and air, view Is a secondary consideration. If the window looks out on an unlovely prospect of back yards or brick walls, far better to veil It softly with creamy net or tinted silk and set a potted fern where the fronds will be delicately outlined against the light. The woman with an artistic sense realizes that while windows are meant to admit light, they need not admit too much light, which is demoralizing to the nerves. Sunny windows of course may be more heavily draped than win dows on the north front of the house, but two sets of draperies will always give the most pleasing effect. The inner set, next the pane, will be pref erably of madras, net, sheer musline or lace and the heavier curtains of silk, tapestry, velour or mercerized fnhrfr pfnfirHIng- 1 n th DUrSe. - PRESERVE T PRESERVE l f i i rrn ni re riS T WW1 -asfe .AWMMHra I NO 40? FUNCTION: Reduces large upper limbs to natural size. FEATURE: Broad bands of semi-elastic Lastikops Web bing control the flesh, smooth out the ridges, expand com fortably when you sit down. No. 409 With low bust, extra-long skirt; sizes J aa 20 to 36 Sold in Good Stores subject of "better babies' at our next meeting." In concluding this splendid record 01 accomplishments, Mrs. Schulmerlch asks: "Now do you think we deserve a place in the Oregon Federation of Women's Clubs?" By return mail the welcome into the state family was extended to the Cres well Civic Improvement Club. Following is an appeal from Mrs. Moore, past president of the General Federation, on behalf of the fifth Na tional Conservation Congress.' If any clubwomen should be contemplating a visit to Washington in November, cre dentials for the convention may be se cured by applying to the state presi dent. Mrs. Moore says: In my position as vice-president ot the Fifth National Conservation Congress I am impressed with the thought that the club women of America -will find much to in terest them in connection with the sessions of the congress which meets in Washing ton. November IS, 19 and 20. The influence of many of the leaders in Washington official life will be exerted to give the congress the social prestige to which it is entitled. The social side is, however, merely inci dental to tho importance of the congress from the point of view of the women of America. We are deeply interested in the questions involved in the conservation of the natural and vital resources of the Nation, and out part of the work is of real moment. All of the officers of the Fifth National Conservation Congress have an earnest rec ognition of the value of co-operation by the women, and they Join with me in ex pressing the hops that you and your or ganization will do all that is possible to se cure a generous attendance at the Wash ington meeting and active participation in its deliberations. Notice will be sent In regard to dele gates, details of attendance, programme, etc., in ample time to make the same known to your state organizations. I would ask that In replying to this let ter you kindly use one of the official letter heads of your organization so that our office may perfect Its mailing list. Mrs. Frank White, of North Dakota, chairman of the membership commit tee cf the General Federation, has just sent out the following letter to the in dividual clubs of the state, hoping that many more of them will affiliate di rectly with the National body, which is composed of both clubs and federa tions. In her letter Mrs. White has made plain the value of this direct re lation. She says: Tour club Is now a member of your state federation. I am writing to ask you to consider seriously the question of Joining the general federation. It la true that through your state yon have an Indirect connection with the can tral organization, but It Is not close and vital and you give nothing In return. The general federation earnestly desires to have every club In direct membership, and thus bind together all the clubwomen of our great country In a sisterhood of love and service. It is already the most powerful organization of women In the world, with a membership of nearly 1,000,000. It reaches Into every state In the Union; It furnishes programmes for study to Increase the intelligence and efficiency of the in dividual; It suggests plans and policies for the betterment of local conditions; it spreads Information in regard to the great questions of the day; it Is unifying the aspirations and ideals of our women; It Is an increasing force for righteousness in public and private life. The membership fee la only 10 cents per Lsiu t jinnff. oi. no. Mthez riat'mial so-, YOUR FIGURE FUNCTION: Makes an extremely long corset com fortable when seated. FEATURE: The new Nemo Lasticu rve- Back, of semi-elastic Lastikops Goth; very long skirt clings closely when you stand, expands when you are seated. No.322 long skirt,low bust) CO CQ No. 324 Bamenedium bust i Sizes 20 to 36. In Every Country Where Corsets Are Worn. clety that aska so little from Its local branches. The general federation, how ever, wishes to be democratic, and hence puts the fee so low that no club can truth fully say, "I can't afford It." Membership entitles you to send delegates to the biennial meetings, but the best thing that will come to you will be the broaden ing of your horizon from the contempla tion of National questions, and frotn the Inspiration of knowing that you are a vital part of this great, wonderful general federation of Women's Clubs. Will yon not apply to the general fed eration secretary of your state for Instruc tions in regard to Joining? Wo need you. and you need us. In a dainty cover of blue the Fort nightly Club, of Kugene, presents its programme and other information for the use and benefit of its club mem bers and their friends. The club has taken for its study this year the modem" drama, including such writers as Peabody, Strlndberg, BJorn son, Synge, Teats, Suderman, Maeter linck, Shaw, Galsworthy, Sowberry, Gibson, Brieux and several others, se lecting from each their strongest or most criticised works. Some of the titles are accompanied by suggestive quotations, as for in stance, among the questions ror Gal worthy's "Stride" are: "Is the play a brief for the cause of labor?" "Are the respective Ideals of John Anthony and David Roberts incompatible?" This Is a most commendable feature, as It at once opens up the toplo to in telligent and well-directed discussion. But from its announcement the club does not tnean to make the year one wholly of work, for several social functions are scheduled. A unique feature of the book is 13 quotations on "Friendship," the first letter of each spelling the word "Fort nightly." It Is entitled "Friendship in Fortnightly." . The 'lub was organized in 1893, Joined the State Federation in 1904 and affiliated with the National organiza tion in 1910. The club shows an en rollment of 97 members, with the fol How to Keep Face Young and Attractive (National Hygienic Review.) The way to ward off old age is not to fear it, not to allow one's self to be op pressed by the dread of advancing years. Use only legitimate preventives and avoid trying experiments with preparations not indorsed by physi cians. An entirely safe and very ef fective way to keep the complexion young-looking and beautiful is to ap ply ordinary mercolized wax at bed time, using it like cold cream, washing it off in the morning. This gradually absorbs the withered, faded cuticle, which is replaced by the more youth ful, pink-tinted underskin. One ounce of this wax, to be had at any drug store; is enough to completely rejuve nate a wornout complextion. Crow's feet and other wrinkles, the first signs of advancing age, may be removed by a simple, harmless prep aration made by dissolving an ounce of powdered saxolite in a half pint witch hazel. It is used as a face bath. Adv. AND GUARD YOUR HEALTH f- FUNCTION: Reduces abdominal fat and drives it away permanently. FEATURE: Improved Auto Massage device; broad bands of semi-elastic Lastikops Webbing give firm support and constant automatic massage. No.356 withlowbust)tQ CA No.357-medium bust f Very long skirt; sizes 20 to 36. lowing officers: President, Miss Julia Burgess; vice-president, Mrs. Helen de Lano; recording secretary, Mrs. Iva Gray; corresponding secretary. Miss Mary Perkins; treasurer. Mrs. Bertha Rolfe. Many Devices for Care of Clothes Are Cheap Coat and Skirt Hansrera, Shoe and Glove Trees and Brushes May Be Secured for a Sasur, and Are In dispensable to Good Dresner. There are so many devices now-a-days for taking care of clothes, keep ing them in shape, neat looking and clean, that there is not the slightest excuse even for the suit of year before last to look out of shape or wrinkly. Health and BT MRS. MAE MARTYN. Mrs. O. L.: Tou complain of brittle. faded hair. You will find that keeping the scalp clean and healthy is the most effective way to restore the natural beauty and softness, but in selecting your shamDOO avoid soaps or mixtures containing "free" alkali. By dissolving a teaspoonrul cantnrox in a cup oi not water you will have a mild, soothing, cleansing mixture that makes the head feel fine and removes all dust, dand ruff and excess oil, leaving the scalp clean and pliant and assuring a beau tiful growth of long, lustrous, fluffy hair. E. G.: Nature never Intended woman to have fuzz on her cheek. Get from your druggist a small original package of delatone and mix a little of the powder with water. Apply the paste to the obnoxious hairs and In 2 or 3 minutes rub off and the hairs will come with it. After the skin Is washed and dried, it will be velvety and free from hair or blemish. Katie: Yes, powder has ruined more complexions than it has aided and while you use it you can hope for nothing better than an imitation of a real complexion. Take my advice. Get from your druggist 4 ounces spurmax and dissolve in pint hot water or witch hazel, then add 2 teaspodnfuls glycerine and you will have an ideal yet Inexpensive lotion, which seems a part of the skin. Apply this spurmax lotion sparingly and rub lightly for an instant and it will vanish, leaving the skin clear and soft. The daily use of this spurmax lotion rids the skin of that coarse, sallow, oily aopearance and renders thi complexion divinely fair and beautiful. Elaine: Tes, there Is a harmless way to make your eyes sparkle, a way that will also strengthen and rid them of that dull ache and tired feeling you mention. Make and use the following eye tonic: Dissolve 1 ounce crystos In 1 pint Clear water, men put 2 or 3 drops in each eye a few times dally. It is an excellent thing for Krarvulated eyelids, to reduce inflammation and take out soreness. Miss C: Dandruff is the cause of your trouble. Cleanse the scalp thor- FUNCTION: Produces extreme figure -redaction below waist-line. FEATURE: Triple reducing device Ifands of semi-elastic Lastikops Webbing across hips and thighs; Lasticnrve Back, as in No. 322. No. 512 Extremely low bust, extra-long skirt; r nn aizes 19 to 30 KOPS BROS., Mlrs N. Y. J The best of it is that these devices are most of them Just about as cheap as can be and so within the price of all. Coat hangers, skirt hangers and hangers for trousers are to be had in a hundred shapes from three cents up, bo that it is not a bit of extravagance to have one for each garment. Then shoe trees and slipper extenders will keep footwear trim and neat long past its usual, time, especially if it is put away in a shoe box with a lid that shuts out all dust. There are even little trees for gloves, good to put kid gloves on when they are moist from a dance or warm day. The clothes brush heads a host of other sorts, all of which may be kept In a handy placo that each one who leaves the house may be positive of spotlessness hat brush, sleeve brush, velvet brush, all of them Indispensable. It is well if each child in the family is taught the use and the value of these little things that help in the care of clothes, for he cannot learn too early. Beauty Hints ouyhly, then twice a week massage a little of this home-made tonic Into the scalp. Make the tonic by pouring 1 ounce quinzoin into pint alcohol, to which la then added pint water. This quinzoin tonic is soothing and heal ing to Itching, tender scalps and is wonderfully effective In restoring the gloss and fluffiness to dull, stringy hair and its continued use will induce a lovely growth of long, heulthy, beau tiful hair. Distress: You 'can quickly remove that burdensome fat and regain your former figure if you use parnotis, pre pared at little expense, as follows: Into 1 pints hot water put 4 ounces parnotis and strain when cool. Take a tablespoonful before each meal un til your weight is sufficiently reduced, then discontinue treatment. No ill re sults follow this method of reduction and your flesh and Bkin will be left firm and smootn. Maurice: The sallow, yellow color of your neck and chin. Of which you speak, are caused by sluggish blood and wnicn is not properly eliminating tne poisons irom tne system, xry this blood purifier and tonic; Into V pint alcohol (whisky must not be used) pour 1 ounce kardene, then add hi cupful sugar and hot water to make a full quart. Take 1 tablespoonful of thi oio-iasnioned diooo cleanser ana tonio before each meal. This Is snlendid for that weak, worn feeling and restores the vital organs to a healthy condition. and Its timely use will save much serious sickness. Eva: If your skin Is wrinkled or saggy, you need the stimulating and beautifying effect of some nlmtle vegetable jelly cream, which can be easily ana cneapiy made at home. Try tnis one, wnicn is tne Dest of many l have used: Get from your druggist one ounce almozoin and dissolve In pint cold water, adding two tea- sooonfuls glycerine. Use this with a gentle massage and as a Jelly mask on wrinKiea surrace ana it win work wonders on your skin, eradicating wrinkles and restoring that velvety, youthful glow. jrteaa jsirs. Martyn s book. "Beauty. 15. Adv. '1