THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX. PORTLAND, SEPTEMBER 21, 1913.
'
v
DRESSMAKERS COVER UP LINES OF
MIDDLE AGE; WOMEN LOOK GIRLISH
Plsasing Variety Given to Plain Little Frock of Flowered Silk Back of Dancing Dress Made More Striking Than
Other Part of Costume by Drapery That Extends From Shoulders to Floor.
WHY is the Nemo Corset the most popular and fastest-
irk
selling corset in the market here and abroad i
BECA USE Nemo Corsets combine exclusive hygienic
and fashion features with great durability and
perfect workmanship, to such a degree that they are
without a rival the leading corsets of the world.
PICTURED BELOW ARE A FEW OF THE
fndtels In Nemo Corsets ttiat
m
' r xixtA . P$l 4-14
:?'-; -if jifP
FTER he feminine figure is
J kpt to t-xY on too decided curves
at the back of the waistline to
conform with 'e classic ideal of
beauty whh always suggests youth.
Dressmaker resort to various devices
to give mature figures rthis girlish
straightness at the back. One of the
most ski lful of such devices is the
pabel-sash of pleated chiffon, heavily
weighted at the edge, hanging from a
point a little above the natural waist
line. A soft girdle is swathed around
the waist under the panel and the
curve at the back is effectually hidden.
CLUB WOMEN READY TO
MEET AT HOOD RIVER
Largest and Most Successful Convention in History of Oregon Fed
eration Is Promised.
BT MRS. SARAH A. EVANS.
(President Oregon Federation of Women's
Club)
AS the time approaches for the an
nual meeting of the Oregon Fed
eration of Women's Clubs, the
Interest seems to grow daily and pres
ent Indications point to the largest and
most successful convention in the his
tory of the organization.
This week has registered 120 dele
gates, who have reported to the Hood
River committee. This does not In
clude those who have made reserva
tions at the hotels, which the com
mittee reports as being swamped with
applications.
During the past week all the clubs
of the state, a-s well as officers and
chairmen of the standing committees,
have received the programme booklet,
and from every quarter is being re
ceived the warmest words of commen
dation, not alone for the programme
but for the compact way in which all
necessary information regarding the
convention is arranged.
The "made-ln-Oregon" lunch, while
originally intended as a bit of social
diversion. Is developing into a real fea
ture and promises to be a star attrac
tion. Several members of the Manu
facturers' Association are talking of
going up, and have Inquired "if men
will be admitted to the lunch."
Let It here be known that every
session of the convention will be open
to everybody who wishes to attend.
Anyone may participate in the discus
sion of any question before' the house,
and will have all the privileges of the
convention accorded them except pre
senting motions and voting.
It is this democracy that distin
guishes the. Women's Club from all
other organizations.
When the reports are read, this year
will go on record as the banner year
for new clubs. Never before have the
acquisitions exceeded five new clubs.
This year 12 will answer to rollcall at
Hood River. This same prosperity has
characterized every department of the
federation work. "
Mrs. George Schulmerich. in sending
the application for the Creswell Civic
Improvement Club to Join the State
Federation, says: "I must tell you
about our Creswell Civic Improvement
Club, and what we have accomplished.
"The 15th of last March a few ladies
met and elected officers to form a cl'jb,
and the next day I was informed that
I had been elected president, notwith
standing I had been home in bed when
the honor was conferred upon me.
"On April 1 we had our first meeting-
and organized a club of 24 mem
bers. Work was mapped out that
could be done immediately.
We have a small plaza in the heart
of the town and a committee was ap
pointed to see what could be done with
It. in the way of planting flowers and
putting up swings. We got the electric
light company to donate some old poles
that were not in use and one of the
members sent a team and man to had!
them to the plaza. The committee
then had ten fine, larg-e rope swings
made. Several flower beds were planted
and a general clean-up of the place
was inaugurated.
"The city owned a piece of ground
for park purposes, but the underbrush
was so thick that a person could hardly
get through it. to say nothing of using
it for picnics or recreation.
"May SI was appointed 'clean-up'
flay, and it waa well advertised. We
took our husbands and children and
clnner with us and equipped ourselves
with axes, rakes, hammers and nails,
starting for the park early In the
morning, headed by the brass band.,
This street gown of taupe brocade is
accompanied by buttoned boots with
taupe suede tops.
A pleasing variety is given to this
plainly made little frock of flowered
silk by the sling drapery at the back
of the skirt. This form of drapery has
been used by Cherult- this season on
many of her most charming costumes.
In this case the loop of the material
comes quite low, giving long lines to
a not overtall figure. The blue silk
gown is flowerod with red post im
pressionist figures. The sash is of
plain blue meteor and the chic little
velvet hat- has a blue ribbon bow and
two pert red quills Just the costume
The men chopped and slashed, while
the women and children pulled and
piled the brush and set great bonfires
agoing.
"At noon three tables were built and
free coffee served to everyone, with a
good dinner and a general good time
was had.
"By 4 P. M. we had two and a half
acres cleared, ready for the celebra
tion of July Fourth.
"On the Fourth we had a parade of
10 floats: we hired the band and had
a splendid programme of drills, songs
and various amusements. In the even
In our home dramatic club, which Is
WINDOW DRAPERIES NOW
PROBLEM IN THE HOME
Two Sets of Curtains Give Most Pleasing Effect Inner Set Should
Be of Madras or Lace and Heavier One Silk or Tapestry.
! item t ? '
t " ' , ' Ms--' 5" k I j
JUKI.VG THE MOST OF WINDOWS.
AUTUMN with Its business of mov
ing: from one domicile to anoth
er brings up anon the problem
of window draperies. To the woman not
blessed with the Inestimable eift of
a naturally artistic eye, this problem
becomes a real and disheartening; one.
and Indeed. It Is no easy matter to
think out. plan and hang: window drap
eries that shall suggest luxury, suit
their environment and fit into the lim
itations of the family purse.
There are two Important first consid
erations that govern or should govern
the selection of window draperies,
whether the window Is to be com
pletely veiled and is to serve .merely
as a background, or whether It com
mands an outlook sufficiently pleasing
to be revealed. In, Lh-cU iHLaua
for afternoon wear on sunny autumn
dava.
The back of this dancing frock has
not been neglected, and is indeed more
striking than any other part of the
costume by reason of the flower-bor
dered drapery which extends from
shoulder to floor. . The arrangement of
this draoery is clever. Made of a bor
dered liberty silk scarf, it is looped
gracefully at the hip and is deeply
hemmed at the foot, a weighted layer
of thin cotton giving substance to the
slimpsy silk. The scarf divides above
the girdle. "half being draped over
each shoulder to the bustline. Lon
gloves of embroidered silk match the
dainty frock.
a fine one, gave a play to help defray
the expenses. Every Beat was sold ana
many turned away. We also sold sand
wiches and coffee on the ground that
dav for the same purpose.
"We paid all expenses of the ' day
and have $130 left for future work. We
expect to plant shade trees ana tlowers
In the plaza this year. We have 50
rose bushes promised for our depot
Dark and plaza.
"We now have a membership of 50.
"The Commercial Club co-operates
with us and Is very helpful. The two
clubs have Joined to beautify the depot
park and if you ever pass through Cres
well you will see the effects of our
work.
"We also have placed three garbage
cans on the streets."
"We are now trying, through the
club, to get electric service one or two
mornings, so we can use our electric
irons and vacuum cleaners. Our eleo
trlce service at present is only till mid
night, and, in Summer, not at all In the
mornings.
"The club meets the first Tuesday of
the month. We expect to bring up the
i.
1
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T5-
are intended to admit llht and air,
view Is a secondary consideration. If
the window looks out on an unlovely
prospect of back yards or brick walls,
far better to veil It softly with creamy
net or tinted silk and set a potted fern
where the fronds will be delicately
outlined against the light.
The woman with an artistic sense
realizes that while windows are meant
to admit light, they need not admit too
much light, which is demoralizing to
the nerves. Sunny windows of course
may be more heavily draped than win
dows on the north front of the house,
but two sets of draperies will always
give the most pleasing effect. The
inner set, next the pane, will be pref
erably of madras, net, sheer musline
or lace and the heavier curtains of
silk, tapestry, velour or mercerized
fnhrfr pfnfirHIng- 1 n th DUrSe. -
PRESERVE
T PRESERVE
l f i i rrn ni re riS T
WW1 -asfe .AWMMHra I
NO
40?
FUNCTION: Reduces
large upper limbs to
natural size.
FEATURE: Broad bands of
semi-elastic Lastikops Web
bing control the flesh, smooth
out the ridges, expand com
fortably when you sit down.
No. 409 With low bust, extra-long
skirt; sizes J aa
20 to 36
Sold in Good Stores
subject of "better babies' at our next
meeting."
In concluding this splendid record 01
accomplishments, Mrs. Schulmerlch
asks: "Now do you think we deserve a
place in the Oregon Federation of
Women's Clubs?"
By return mail the welcome into the
state family was extended to the Cres
well Civic Improvement Club.
Following is an appeal from Mrs.
Moore, past president of the General
Federation, on behalf of the fifth Na
tional Conservation Congress.' If any
clubwomen should be contemplating a
visit to Washington in November, cre
dentials for the convention may be se
cured by applying to the state presi
dent. Mrs. Moore says:
In my position as vice-president ot the
Fifth National Conservation Congress I am
impressed with the thought that the club
women of America -will find much to in
terest them in connection with the sessions
of the congress which meets in Washing
ton. November IS, 19 and 20.
The influence of many of the leaders in
Washington official life will be exerted to
give the congress the social prestige to
which it is entitled.
The social side is, however, merely inci
dental to tho importance of the congress
from the point of view of the women of
America. We are deeply interested in the
questions involved in the conservation of the
natural and vital resources of the Nation,
and out part of the work is of real moment.
All of the officers of the Fifth National
Conservation Congress have an earnest rec
ognition of the value of co-operation by
the women, and they Join with me in ex
pressing the hops that you and your or
ganization will do all that is possible to se
cure a generous attendance at the Wash
ington meeting and active participation in
its deliberations.
Notice will be sent In regard to dele
gates, details of attendance, programme, etc.,
in ample time to make the same known to
your state organizations.
I would ask that In replying to this let
ter you kindly use one of the official letter
heads of your organization so that our
office may perfect Its mailing list.
Mrs. Frank White, of North Dakota,
chairman of the membership commit
tee cf the General Federation, has just
sent out the following letter to the in
dividual clubs of the state, hoping that
many more of them will affiliate di
rectly with the National body, which is
composed of both clubs and federa
tions. In her letter Mrs. White has
made plain the value of this direct re
lation. She says:
Tour club Is now a member of your state
federation. I am writing to ask you to
consider seriously the question of Joining
the general federation.
It la true that through your state yon
have an Indirect connection with the can
tral organization, but It Is not close and
vital and you give nothing In return. The
general federation earnestly desires to have
every club In direct membership, and thus
bind together all the clubwomen of our
great country In a sisterhood of love and
service. It is already the most powerful
organization of women In the world, with
a membership of nearly 1,000,000. It
reaches Into every state In the Union; It
furnishes programmes for study to Increase
the intelligence and efficiency of the in
dividual; It suggests plans and policies for
the betterment of local conditions; it
spreads Information in regard to the great
questions of the day; it Is unifying the
aspirations and ideals of our women; It Is
an increasing force for righteousness in
public and private life.
The membership fee la only 10 cents per
Lsiu t jinnff. oi. no. Mthez riat'mial so-,
YOUR FIGURE
FUNCTION: Makes an
extremely long corset com
fortable when seated.
FEATURE: The new Nemo
Lasticu rve- Back, of semi-elastic
Lastikops Goth; very long skirt
clings closely when you stand,
expands when you are seated.
No.322 long skirt,low bust) CO CQ
No. 324 Bamenedium bust i
Sizes 20 to 36.
In Every Country Where Corsets Are Worn.
clety that aska so little from Its local
branches. The general federation, how
ever, wishes to be democratic, and hence
puts the fee so low that no club can truth
fully say, "I can't afford It."
Membership entitles you to send delegates
to the biennial meetings, but the best thing
that will come to you will be the broaden
ing of your horizon from the contempla
tion of National questions, and frotn the
Inspiration of knowing that you are a
vital part of this great, wonderful general
federation of Women's Clubs.
Will yon not apply to the general fed
eration secretary of your state for Instruc
tions in regard to Joining? Wo need you.
and you need us.
In a dainty cover of blue the Fort
nightly Club, of Kugene, presents its
programme and other information for
the use and benefit of its club mem
bers and their friends.
The club has taken for its study this
year the modem" drama, including such
writers as Peabody, Strlndberg, BJorn
son, Synge, Teats, Suderman, Maeter
linck, Shaw, Galsworthy, Sowberry,
Gibson, Brieux and several others, se
lecting from each their strongest or
most criticised works.
Some of the titles are accompanied
by suggestive quotations, as for in
stance, among the questions ror Gal
worthy's "Stride" are: "Is the play a
brief for the cause of labor?" "Are the
respective Ideals of John Anthony and
David Roberts incompatible?"
This Is a most commendable feature,
as It at once opens up the toplo to in
telligent and well-directed discussion.
But from its announcement the club
does not tnean to make the year one
wholly of work, for several social
functions are scheduled.
A unique feature of the book is 13
quotations on "Friendship," the first
letter of each spelling the word "Fort
nightly." It Is entitled "Friendship in
Fortnightly." .
The 'lub was organized in 1893,
Joined the State Federation in 1904 and
affiliated with the National organiza
tion in 1910. The club shows an en
rollment of 97 members, with the fol
How to Keep Face
Young and Attractive
(National Hygienic Review.)
The way to ward off old age is not to
fear it, not to allow one's self to be op
pressed by the dread of advancing
years. Use only legitimate preventives
and avoid trying experiments with
preparations not indorsed by physi
cians. An entirely safe and very ef
fective way to keep the complexion
young-looking and beautiful is to ap
ply ordinary mercolized wax at bed
time, using it like cold cream, washing
it off in the morning. This gradually
absorbs the withered, faded cuticle,
which is replaced by the more youth
ful, pink-tinted underskin. One ounce
of this wax, to be had at any drug
store; is enough to completely rejuve
nate a wornout complextion.
Crow's feet and other wrinkles, the
first signs of advancing age, may be
removed by a simple, harmless prep
aration made by dissolving an ounce
of powdered saxolite in a half pint
witch hazel. It is used as a face bath.
Adv.
AND GUARD YOUR HEALTH f-
FUNCTION: Reduces
abdominal fat and drives
it away permanently.
FEATURE: Improved Auto
Massage device; broad bands
of semi-elastic Lastikops
Webbing give firm support and
constant automatic massage.
No.356 withlowbust)tQ CA
No.357-medium bust f
Very long skirt; sizes 20 to 36.
lowing officers: President, Miss Julia
Burgess; vice-president, Mrs. Helen de
Lano; recording secretary, Mrs. Iva
Gray; corresponding secretary. Miss
Mary Perkins; treasurer. Mrs. Bertha
Rolfe.
Many Devices for Care of
Clothes Are Cheap
Coat and Skirt Hansrera, Shoe and
Glove Trees and Brushes May Be
Secured for a Sasur, and Are In
dispensable to Good Dresner.
There are so many devices now-a-days
for taking care of clothes, keep
ing them in shape, neat looking and
clean, that there is not the slightest
excuse even for the suit of year before
last to look out of shape or wrinkly.
Health and
BT MRS. MAE MARTYN.
Mrs. O. L.: Tou complain of brittle.
faded hair. You will find that keeping
the scalp clean and healthy is the most
effective way to restore the natural
beauty and softness, but in selecting
your shamDOO avoid soaps or mixtures
containing "free" alkali. By dissolving
a teaspoonrul cantnrox in a cup oi not
water you will have a mild, soothing,
cleansing mixture that makes the head
feel fine and removes all dust, dand
ruff and excess oil, leaving the scalp
clean and pliant and assuring a beau
tiful growth of long, lustrous, fluffy
hair.
E. G.: Nature never Intended woman
to have fuzz on her cheek. Get from
your druggist a small original package
of delatone and mix a little of the
powder with water. Apply the paste
to the obnoxious hairs and In 2 or 3
minutes rub off and the hairs will
come with it. After the skin Is washed
and dried, it will be velvety and free
from hair or blemish.
Katie: Yes, powder has ruined more
complexions than it has aided and
while you use it you can hope for
nothing better than an imitation of a
real complexion. Take my advice. Get
from your druggist 4 ounces spurmax
and dissolve in pint hot water or
witch hazel, then add 2 teaspodnfuls
glycerine and you will have an ideal
yet Inexpensive lotion, which seems a
part of the skin. Apply this spurmax
lotion sparingly and rub lightly for an
instant and it will vanish, leaving the
skin clear and soft. The daily use of
this spurmax lotion rids the skin of
that coarse, sallow, oily aopearance and
renders thi complexion divinely fair
and beautiful.
Elaine: Tes, there Is a harmless way
to make your eyes sparkle, a way
that will also strengthen and rid them
of that dull ache and tired feeling you
mention. Make and use the following
eye tonic: Dissolve 1 ounce crystos
In 1 pint Clear water, men put 2 or
3 drops in each eye a few times dally.
It is an excellent thing for Krarvulated
eyelids, to reduce inflammation and
take out soreness.
Miss C: Dandruff is the cause of
your trouble. Cleanse the scalp thor-
FUNCTION: Produces
extreme figure -redaction
below waist-line.
FEATURE: Triple reducing
device Ifands of semi-elastic
Lastikops Webbing across
hips and thighs; Lasticnrve
Back, as in No. 322.
No. 512 Extremely low bust,
extra-long skirt; r nn
aizes 19 to 30
KOPS BROS., Mlrs N. Y.
J
The best of it is that these devices
are most of them Just about as cheap
as can be and so within the price of
all.
Coat hangers, skirt hangers and
hangers for trousers are to be had in
a hundred shapes from three cents up,
bo that it is not a bit of extravagance
to have one for each garment. Then
shoe trees and slipper extenders will
keep footwear trim and neat long past
its usual, time, especially if it is put
away in a shoe box with a lid that
shuts out all dust. There are even
little trees for gloves, good to put kid
gloves on when they are moist from a
dance or warm day.
The clothes brush heads a host of
other sorts, all of which may be kept
In a handy placo that each one who
leaves the house may be positive of
spotlessness hat brush, sleeve brush,
velvet brush, all of them Indispensable.
It is well if each child in the family
is taught the use and the value of these
little things that help in the care of
clothes, for he cannot learn too early.
Beauty Hints
ouyhly, then twice a week massage a
little of this home-made tonic Into the
scalp. Make the tonic by pouring 1
ounce quinzoin into pint alcohol, to
which la then added pint water. This
quinzoin tonic is soothing and heal
ing to Itching, tender scalps and is
wonderfully effective In restoring the
gloss and fluffiness to dull, stringy
hair and its continued use will induce
a lovely growth of long, heulthy, beau
tiful hair.
Distress: You 'can quickly remove
that burdensome fat and regain your
former figure if you use parnotis, pre
pared at little expense, as follows:
Into 1 pints hot water put 4 ounces
parnotis and strain when cool. Take
a tablespoonful before each meal un
til your weight is sufficiently reduced,
then discontinue treatment. No ill re
sults follow this method of reduction
and your flesh and Bkin will be left
firm and smootn.
Maurice: The sallow, yellow color
of your neck and chin. Of which you
speak, are caused by sluggish blood
and wnicn is not properly eliminating
tne poisons irom tne system, xry this
blood purifier and tonic; Into V pint
alcohol (whisky must not be used) pour
1 ounce kardene, then add hi cupful
sugar and hot water to make a full
quart. Take 1 tablespoonful of thi
oio-iasnioned diooo cleanser ana tonio
before each meal. This Is snlendid for
that weak, worn feeling and restores
the vital organs to a healthy condition.
and Its timely use will save much
serious sickness.
Eva: If your skin Is wrinkled or
saggy, you need the stimulating and
beautifying effect of some nlmtle
vegetable jelly cream, which can be
easily ana cneapiy made at home. Try
tnis one, wnicn is tne Dest of many l
have used: Get from your druggist
one ounce almozoin and dissolve In
pint cold water, adding two tea-
sooonfuls glycerine. Use this with a
gentle massage and as a Jelly mask
on wrinKiea surrace ana it win work
wonders on your skin, eradicating
wrinkles and restoring that velvety,
youthful glow.
jrteaa jsirs. Martyn s book. "Beauty.
15. Adv.
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