The Sunday Oregonian., September 21, 1913, SECTION FIVE, Page 6, Image 60

THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, SEPTE3IBER 21, 1913.
CUNNINGLY ARRANGED DRAPERIES
OFTEN CONVEY EFFECT OF HEIGHT
Long Lines Obtained by Draping Wide White Lace Over Chartreuse Crepe de Chine Fabric Carried From Knee
at Back Up Over Right Shoulder and Down in Front Again Chief Interest of Evening Wrap Centers at Back.
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boned girdles of the moment are also
used to give a etralgm-nacn sugges
tion. Transparent coats and mantles,
falling- from tbe shoulders, give a
charming line at the back; so do deep
lace berthas, and the fichu is particu
larly useful In achieving tbe desired.
Rowing, canoeing, bending to touch
the toes with the finger tips and sway
ing with -a. band held high over the
head, all tend to keep the back supple,
straight and youthful and every phys
ical director now gives back exercises
to her pupils.
OFTEX cunningly arranged drapery
conveys the effect of height; as
In this Instance where long lines
are obtained by the draping cf wide
white lace over chartreuse crepe de
chine. The management of the lace Is
eminently simple, the fabric being car
ried from the knoe at the back up over
the right shoulder and down the front
again, one end being brought around
to Join the starting point at the back.
The drapery of crepe de chine on the
left shoulder balances the lace well aud
the costume is completed by buttoned
strap suede slippers In the chartreuse
tone.
The chief Interest of the evening
wrap centers at tho back, and if this
view of the garment is net pleasing
tho wrap is an utter failure. The long,
straight lino from neck to heels, fa
vored In last year's wraps, is giving
place now to a more broken effect.
Draperies, hoods, deep lace collars and
other devices help to break up the line
at tho back and to suggest greater
elaboration. The wrap pictured Is a
French modol of green and gold bro
cade, showing the loose chasuble collar
Just now tho rage. The wrap accom
panies a gown of white chiffon and
iansdowne and whlto silk embroidered
gloves.
BACK IS VULNERABLE POINT OF
NEWEST FASHIONABLE CREATIONS
Ideal Silhouette From Side 'View Shows Perfectly Flat Line From Eacks to Hips, With Slight Sloping Inward to
Knee In Front All Is Bnnchiness aiid Confusion.
JK1EW YORK. Sept. 20. (Special.)
11 The astute dressmaker realizes
that at the back Is the vulner
able point of her creation and concen
trates her efforts now upon the rear
view of the'costurae. Once upon a time
in the memory of most women under
40 all Interest was focused at the
front and one -was Inclined to tako a
chance about her back, swinging
speedily round If a critical eye was
felt behind her. Now all this Is
changed and the critical eye behind
her has no terrors, for one Is serenely
certain that the back of one's frock
Is perfection and that from this view
point all the dressmaker's best and
most skillful endeavor Is on parade.
This metamorphosis In backs has
wrought a change In the feminine sil
houette and the side view of a woman
dressed in the garb of the eighties or
even the nineties, is now food for
mirth. In those days the line of the
back curved Inward from the shoulder
blades to the waistline; then there was
an outward curve from waistline to
hip, more or less pronounced ac
cording to the youth or maturity of
the fiKure; and from hip to foot the
eklrt sloped slightly outward. The
ideal silhouette from a side view now
adays shows a perfectly flat line from
neck to hip; then a line sloping inward
from hip to knee, accentuating a line
of the back that no modest woman
would have dreamed of exhibiting 10
years ago; and from knee to ankle the
skirt, drawn upward toward the front,
clings as closely to the curves of th
leg as the nature of its fabrio will
permit. At the front all Is bunchlness
and confusion. There are simply no
lines at all. The skirt drapery Is pulled
up, to fall loosely over the knees, huge
sashes are tied at the front of the
waistline, to hang more or less grace
fully over what tha Englishwoman
genteelly terms her "lower chest," and
bodices have little bolero jackets fall
ing above much bloused vests and
trimmed with frills of net or silk
which utterly disguise the curvc3 of
bust and waist.
A littie frock having the features
Just referred to was worn by a youth
ful woman &t & Tusedo affair the other
day ami while preposterous in silhou
ette from the standpoint of a decade
ago this costume was really charming
and most graceful, from the viewpoint
of today. It was made of white liica
downe, a soft and ciinging weave of
silk and worsted and the skirt, narrow
at the foot, was looped and draped up
toward the front, revealing quite frank
ly the long, slender lines at the back
of the figure f ronwwaistltne to ankle.
Around the waist which was of a
measurement which would have horri
fied this pretty maid's mamma- rn her
own girlhood was tied A wide sash of
cedar green silk, the looped-under end
and knot coming at the front and fall
ing over the bunched up drapery' of
tho skirt. Over the mammoth sash.
measuring at least 12 inches where it
hung over the front of the skirt, was a
little bolero jacket, gathered in slight
ly at the lower edge and finished with
a pleating of white net, which fell over
the green sash. A tall frill of pleated
net finished the back of the neck and
tapered down the V'd fronts of the bo
lero. White buttoned buckskin boots
peeped out beneath the white frock and
long embroidered white silk gloves met
tbe elbow sleeves. A simple little cos
tume enough, but pronounced to a de
gree In its lines, which emphasized the
stralgbtness and youthfulness of tbe
young figure at the back by massing
all the materials and trimming at the
front.
No matter what milady's figure, her
tailor if he be a good one will irlve
her an under-20 back. He knows well
that as maturity approaches the curve I
of the back at the waistline becomes
more pronounced the matronly back
often having an almost grotesque in
ward curve at this point. So by artful
cutting and management of seams, the
tailored coat la made to hang outward
from the figure at the back of the
waistline, clinging closely again at the
hip. Sometimes a sectional belt, or
rows of buttons are used to create a
further illusion of straightness at the
waist. The corset also plays an Impor
tant part In giving the feminine back
youthful and fashionable contours.
The effect has been secured, primarily
by enlarging the waistline. Instead of
a belt measure of from, the envied 13
Inches of early Victorian days to an
average 19 or 20 Inches, the modern
maid confesses without a qualm to a
24 to 2tUlnch measurement and corsets
come now in sizes up to 34, indicating a
waist measure, over the costume,-of
from 32 to 36 inches. Think of a waist
a yard around! One a great-grandmoth
er would have swooned at "the
Idea, yet yard-round waists are by
no means uncommon, and costume
was never more graceful and love
ly than it is now in this era
of clinging stunts and draped ef
fects. The large waist is, of .course,
only a reversion to the natural and
classic type of figure. The more "nat
ural" the figure appears now, the more
cleverly usually Is it corseted; yet few
women have figures that can stand the
minus-corset test and some sort of sup.
port must be given over hips and ab
domen, and at the bust. This support Is
accomplisbed by a brassiere of em
broidery and lace, and an elastlo but
boneless so-called corset which confines
the hips while giving the flat-at-back-and-f
ront effect of An uncorseted figure.
Sometimes a high-placed sash, with i
butterfly bow at the center back, fill
lng In the little hollow which denotes
mature years, accomplishes the correct
back line successfully. The- wide.
Answers to Correspondents
BY LILIAN TINGLE.
SALEM Or., July 15. I failed to
find your column in The Oregonian
last Sunday and I missed it. I certainly
do enjoy reading- your answers to the
many questions. Will you kindly give
through The Oregonian recipes for
macaroons and for lady fingers, telling
Just how they should be put together
from first to last. Are "lady fingers"
baked in moulds or cut like cookies?
Thanking you for help received.
MRS. 31. E. Q.
I am sorry you have had to wait so
long for your reply. Tour letter, with
others, has been following me for
weeks and has just caught me. I am
glad you find thif column useful, and
you know it is always nice to hear
that one is missed in absence.
Baking is the most important point
in the making of either macaroons or
lady fingers, and that is, of course,
Just the part that is difficult to get
from a recipe. A little practice, how
ever, soon will give you the knack.
The almond meal for the macaroons
may be made at home by grinding very
finely blanched and dried sweet al
monds, or it may be obtained in tins.
ready ground, from the larger grocery
etores or sometimes from wholesale
confectionery houses.
Aiacaroons To one-half -pound fine
almond meal, add one jiound silted
! confectioner's sugar, a Aw drops of
almond flavoring and four beaten egg
whites. Mix thoroughly and squeeze
the mixture through a pastry tube (or
a cone of stiff paper If no pastry tube
is available) In "blobs, " about the size
of half a dollar, upon a baking sheet
covered with white ungreased paper.
Place in a rather slow oven, and do not
open the door for 10 minutes. For soft
macaroons givr les3 cooking than for
hard macaroons. Tn any case the tops
should feel firm before they are taken
from the oven, or they may fall, Va
riations of form and size are of course
possible but the macaroons should not
be too large or they will look clumsy
and not keep so well. Different "fin
ishes' may be given before baking.
For example, the tops may be brushed
with egg white, mixed with two or
three times Its bulk of water or may
be sprinkled with sugar, or with
chopped almonds, or decorated with a
strip of almond, a bit of candied cherry.
citron, preserved orange peel, angelica
or fruit paste. The macaroons can be
detached from the paper when cold.
Mazipan macaroons are made with
equal parts of almond meal and sugar
with egg white to make a flexible paste
that can be rolled and cut or made
into balls and patted flat. These mac
aroons are richer and denser than the
first kind given, and usually are cut in
tiny bars, diamonds or stars. They
often are decorated with bits of nut oi
fruit as above, and are sometimes
served in tiny paper cases, like choice
chocolates.
An intermediate macaroon can be
made by using two parts almond meal
to one part sugar. A little vanilla
flavoring is added by some makers as
well as the almond flavoring. Be care
ful not to get too much of the latter.
Try a small quantity at first until you
learn just how long it takes to cook
them Just as you like them in your
oven.
Lady fingers Tin baking sheets with
depressions the size and shape of lady
fingers are sold In most hardware
stores; but it is easier to shape these
little cakes by squeezing the mixture
In even "fingers," in rows, through a
pastry bag or cone of stiff paper. They
should be placed upon a baking sheet
which is covered with white paper
sprinkled with powdered sugar. Bake
them In a slow oven. They should hold
their shape. If they tend to rise, the
oven is too hot;' if they tend to spread
the oven is too cool. Use half the fol
lowing quantity for first practice:
Separate the whites and yolks of
four eggs. Beat the yolks, with one cup
sifted sugar until stiff and lemon-colored;
add a few drops of any preferred
flavoring, and fold In one and one-half
cups sifted flour and the stiff whites
of the four eggs. The mixture should
be stiff enough to hold its shape (the
French test Is "support a 2-franc
piece") but this stiffness Is attained
by careful beating and folding, not by
using a great deal of flour. Put the
stiff mixture into a paper cone, or
regular pastry bag, with an opening
about the size of a dime. Gently press
FAMOUS ACTRESS LOSES 70 LBS. OF FAT
Texas Guinan, Star of the "Passing Show" Company, Offers Her Own
Marvelous New Treatment to Fat Folks
NEW TREATMENT GIVES ELEGANCE OF FIGURE AND STARTLING RESULTS QUICKLY
If You Are Fat and Want to Get Thin, You Can Reduce as Many Pounds as You
Desire Uy 1 his Astonishing jiew JMethod
As Texas Guinan had to perform at
the matinee it seemed the easiest thing
in the world to arrange an interview
without consulting her. The vigilant
stage doorkeeper was easily pased.
The dressing-room was hospitably
turned open by a maid, and then
well. Miss Guinan. that is, what is left
of her, appeared.
"So you have come to learn the story
of my weight reduction, have you?'
said Texas in her breezy style, with her
frlorious countenance beaming in smiles
ut her supreme gladness, realizing how
appreciative the world was in Destow
lng admiration ana applause
upon her, all on account of the
new glory of her form, which
she transformed almost as if
bv magic with her own mar
velous new treatment.
"While you are not going
to get away wltn my secret.
saw Texas, it is true
that mv seventy
Sounds of weight re
uction was brought
about with my own
del ightf ul treatment,
but it cost me a pretty
sum of money to learn
oi it, ana i am not
giving m y secret o f
how I lost my weight
free to reporters, but
I have written a book
telling all about this
wondrous new treat
in e n t which rescued
me from the thralldom
of fat. This book has
Just come off the press
and is offered free to
fat-burdened men and wome
as I early learned in life th
the only Vf-ay to know hnppl.
nes
and
k
method
great
not lived in vain.
"But won't you give me an Inkling of
Its component parts? Just a suggestion
as to what If Is. or will I have to be
content to read your free book telling
all about it?" .
'That is exactly It." said Texas, "but
I don't mind telling you what tlie treat
ment is not. It does not consist of In
ternal drugs or a.edicine; mere is
nothlnsr to take Internally. Neither Is
there any pink-colored camphor water,
or worthless, harmful Btuff to ruo on
the body. There is no sweating, no
bandages, no Turkish baths. The treat
ment does not consist of a single ex
ercise or physical culture of any de
scription. There is no diet. One may
absolutely eat all the food they desire
of any kind, and go right on reducing
without depriving themselves in any
way.
There are no enemas or flushing of
the colon, no harmful massaging, no
sweating garments 10 wear, no im-
V. S,4 -4
it t
t
tie only way to know hnppl- . Vi- T.VlTi it
now of this harmless, quick . "Vs V
lethod of reducing weight I can do sci -TV(iis.i!j!Vfc;
reat good, then I will feel (hat I have " VS X
MISS TEXAS G VISA'S.
God's mtiMterpicee and the niont fasci
nating actress In America.
at the wondrous change In my appear-
merging yourself In hot baths with the ance. My fat just roiled away. After
tub filled with abnitr water or tmon the first three davs I noticed ft hetrin-
mtiltm, nor does it Include any medical nlng to 14ave me. My reduction grew
concoction of any doctor, and it has greater and greater until finally I was
nothing to do with any drug store ore- almost annalled with dellirht when I
scription to have filled. There is no realized the stupendous success of my
formula to carry out, no soaps to rub
on the skin: neither Is It a relielous
faith cure or Christian 6clence stunt.
It is not a vibratory electric massage
treatment, mental suggestion no, and
it Is not a belt or mechanical device
of any kind.
"1 have tried many such, fakes. I
tried drugs, pills, capsules, harmful
concoctions to rub on the body. I have
tried sweating ana taking Turkish
efforts and when I awoke, to the fact
that I had reduced 70 pounds of my fat
without leaving a wrinkle, and the
glory of my new figure and the grace
and beauty of my curves gave me the
admiration of the world. I enjoyed the
triumph of my life and the success of
my wh61e career when my manager,
Mr. Shubert, on account of my glorious
new figure, made me the star of the
'Passine Show.' and. mind vnu this verv
baths, exercising, physical culture and same manager had said I was doomed
everything- known to science without to oblivion Just a short time before
result, ana without losing weight. As when I tipped the scales at two hun-
I was about to despair and give up In dred and four pounds. I was crushed
disgust all further efforts to reduce my and bewildered when he told me he
enormous weight, which was two bun- could not give me a part in the -Pass-
dred and four pounds, I, by lucky acci- ing Show' unless I could reduce my
dent, learned or the most simple, harm- enormous weight, and my heart hangs
less, -rapid, safest fat-reducing treat- heavy with the memory of the fat days
ment on earth. I tried it on myself that are (rone, when mv fat. untrainlv
with &stonishlnJ7 results. Mv frfendR fle-ura made rne realize that T wn Iinnifi llullflinic. Lvh
stood aghast in amazement, marveling doomed to despair and failure. lornlo. Adv.
"My success in reducing my own fat
proves that there is no such word as
fail.' I simply would not be resigned
to my fate, and although every on
said. 'Texas, there is no way out of
your dilemma,' and told me that no fat
reducing specialist could reduce my
weight, I determined not to give up in
despair, with the result that I abso
lutely conquered mv fat. My new, great
book on obesity, which gives full par
ticulars of my simple, safe, quick,
harmless fat-reducing treatment, is
now ready and will be sent free to all
who wish to reduce their weight any
number of pounds."
It is simply astonishing tho furor
this new treatment is causing among,
the intimate friends of Miss Guinan t
whom she has given it. A letter from
the world's most famous rtancer, La
Petite Adelaide, says: "Dear Miits
rGuinan: Let me congratulate you upon
the hfcrh excellence of your remark
able new obesity treatment, which I
find reduces me as rapidly as 1 desire.
Sincerely, Adelaide." Other letters of
praise and gratitude are pouring in to
Miss Guinan 'from all parts of the
country from those who have reduced
with her successful treatment. Louisa
Brunelle, the Quaker maid, one of the
earth's greatest beauties, states she
lost 10 pounds the first week with thij
astonishing new treatment. It Is said
this remarkable treatment is not unlike
the treatment used by the court ladles
and famous actresses of the Old World,
who have -been using a similar remedy
throughout Europe, and tho remarkable
thing is that Texas Guinan is the first
to introduce it in America. Her fre
book, which Is now ready for distri
bution, should be requested by all who
desire quick reduction. It is written in
a fascinating style. It explains how,
by her treatment, Texas Guinan, who
is acknowledged America's most suc
cessful star, reduced her own weight
seventv pounds, and conquered the
monster FAT.
This glorious little woman is doing
her utmost to benefit fat men ami
women who are in need of a perfect
home treatment. Everything will be
sent to you in a perfectly plain pack
age, So that in your own room, away
from all prying eyes, you may plan
to reduce your weight at once. Miss
Guinan wants to help all who are bur
dened with superfluous fat, and thereby
make life reully worth while.
Write her at once, and learn the an
guish she felt when her girlish beauty
started to develop to abnormal pro
portions. Read of the tears she wept
when that monster "fat" made her real
ize tliut she must give up her pro
fession and fade into oblivion. Lea in
how she experimented, how she tried
everything ami. finally, with patient
enort and determination, sue conquered
her fat. Learn of these things, so you
may improve your own form and de
stroy your own fat so it will not be
longer necessary for you to suffer tli
Jibes and sneers of others. Kememlter
there is no exercising or physical cul
ture of any description in her treat
ment, no harmful massage or worth
less poison body lotions. You may eat
as many meals dally as you desire and
go rlgh't on rapidlv reducing. A most
astonishing part of this fat-reducing
treatment is that it does not produce
wrinkles or leave the skin flabby. All
who have been dieting and starvlnir
themselves, trying to reduce their
weight, and who have been taking ex
ercises and Internal baths and who
have been taking internal and external
remedies should write for a copv of her
great FREE book entitled "UAFIIJ
WEIGHT REDUCTION WITHOUT EX
KRC1SE, DIET OR INTERNAL REME
DIES," so that you may start to reduce
your burdensome fat as rapidly as you
desire. Simply write a brief letter or a
postcard and ask for her new hook.
Everything will bo sent absolutely free.
Do not send any money, because it is
absolutely free.
Address TKXAS GVIS AS, Jnlte 6r.l,
Angeles. tall.
Perfect Boots Needed in
Windy Weather
When Feminine Draperlc Whisk
Around, Fair Sex Must Consider
Just Hovr Their Feet Look.
tne mixture in even "lingers, on a
clean paper; lightly sift a thin film of
confectioner s sugar over the "fingers.
which should stand jjp in a nice round
form. Bake as described above, stick
the fingers together, in pairs, with a
little egg white or frosting.
Husum, Wash., July 19. Will you
kindly publish In your paper the dif
ference between fried cakes and dough
nuts? SUBSCRIBER.
The terms are used without any par
ticular distinction of meaning by many
people. Principally, however, I be
lieve the term "doughnuts," really be
longs to the plainer varieties and "fried
cake" to the richer, sweeter mixtures.
You can see that "fried cake" is really
the more general term and may include
crullers, doughnuts, "Berlin pancakes,"
"wonders," "Flirts,"-fried muffins, fried
turnovers, and so forth. In short, all
doughnuts are fried cakes, but all
fried cakes are not doughnuts.
Well-Shod Feet for Breezy Autumn.
WHEX the wind whisks around to
W the north and plays pranks with
feminine draperies feminine feet are
unpleasantly consplouous Unless the
feet are perfectly booted In footwear
faultless and seasonable. The correct
street boot for Autumn has. a but
toned top and rather long, graceful
lines, so that the foot looks trim, neat
and also slender and aristocratic. If
the buttoned top is also of leather con
trasting with the vamp or foxing, of
the boot so much the better for smart
ness. Just now the buttoned top of
light kid on a vamp of patent leather
Is the extremely smart notion, but such
boots are correct only with rather for
mal gowns of meteor, charmeuse or
lansdowne, a buttoned walking boot of
patent leather with black calf top ac
companying the shopping or trotter
costume.
Two modern and also practical street
boots are pictured a patent leather
dress boot with buttoned top of gray
kid and curved heel of moderate
height, and a cloth top buttoned boot
foxed off with calf and trimmed with
perforated stitching;
Portland, Or., June 24. Enclosed you
will find a stamped self-addressed en
velope for which please send informa
tion by return mail. What Is used to
color black rose beads? Kindly advise
me of the quantity for lavender, navy
blue, pink and green. An early reply
will be greatly appreciated.
MRS. O. F.
It Is impossible for me to' "send"
recipes, or to make personal replies
to my many correspondents, and I can
not even give you the "early reply"
that you wish, since your letter hi.3
had to follow me to Switzerland. How
ever, I am hoping that you saw some
directions for making colored breads
which I gave in my last "Answers t
Correspondence." I do not know any
method of coloring black rose bead
(except, of course, painting them), th
point being to keep the rose-petal pulp
from turning black, by boiling, by use
of acids, and by the careful avoidance
of iron or of chipped enamel utensils
For green or blue beads, white
very pale colored rose petals could be
used; or the red petal pulp might be
bleached, at the expense, of course, of
its fragrance. Green beads, however,
are best made from sweet scented
green leaves, such as sweet briar,
woodruff, or lemon verbena. Shades of
pink can be obtained irom pink or red
roses, by varying the amount of "flller'
used. Lavender may be derived from
pink or red by the cautious use of a
minute quantity of soda or of blue col
oring. Artificial coloring such as
"fruit color paste," dyes for vegetable
fabrics, or water-color paints, may, of
course, be added to any light-colored
bead-pulp. No exact quantities can be
quoted, as so much depends upon the
Quantity and original color of the pulp,
and the exact final shade desired. The
best plan Is to add the" coloring ma
terial very gradually until the exact
shade you want is obtained. You can
get lighter, tones by the addition of
more "filler, or darker tones Dy aaamg
a little blackened pulp. The latter, how
ever. Is seldom necessary. The per
fume may be Intensified by polishing
the finished beads with scented oil.
m w m
Portland. Or., July 23. Would like
a recipe for English butter scotch.
ismssiis.
Butter Scotch Two cups sugar, one
cup butter, one cup milk, one-eighth
teaspoon cream or tartar. stir tne
milk and sugar over the fire until dis
solved. Add the butter gradually and
the cream of tartar. Cook to the hard
ball. Pour into a greased tin and mark
in squares, break when cold and wrap
the pieces in wax paper and. tinfoil to
keep them crisp.
Emmet, Idaho, July 25. Will you
kindly give a recipe for making, also
canning, hot tamales? I have never
found any so good as th-ose made in
Portland. R. C. J.
I am sorry to disappoint you, but
must ask ' you to write again a little
later. Recipes tor making hot tamales
were published recently In this column
and the "time limit" has not yet ex
pired. I 'have had no personal experi
ence In canning tamales, but I should
Judge that there would be no particular
diference in principle from the usual
household method of meat canning by
"Intermittent sterilization," so fre
quently (and recently) described in this
column.
'
Portland, Or., July 19 Kindly give
recipe for caramels made with glycer
ine; also recipe for Chinese soy. Thank
ing you in advance. MRS. A. J.
I hope the following is what you
want:
Chocolate caramels Three-fourths
cup finely grated sweet chocolate, one
cup brown sugar, one cup milk, two
tablespoons butter, three-fourths table
spoon glycerine, one teaspoon Karo
syrup or molasses (as preferred In fla
vor), one-half teaspoon vanilla essence.
Boil the syrup, butter, glycerine, sugar
and milk for two minutes, add the
chocolate and boil to a hard ball. Turn
into buttered tins, mark with a car
amel cutter and cut In squares. Wrap
in paraffins paper.
I. have no recipe for Chinese soy; the
following for Japanese soy Is the best
I can offer Tind I fear will not be very
useful. It Is best to buy soy at an
Oriental shop and get the real thing,
which, by the way, Is often useful in
purely American dishes.
Japanese Soy An equal weight of
soy, coarse barley meal and salt, Wash
the beans and boil until tender, pound
or grinj them and add the meal grad
ually. Put the mass Into an earthen
bowl. Cover with a cloth and let it
stand for a few days In a warm place
until it is fermented, but not mouldy.
To each pound of salt add four pints
water to make a brine and stir this
Into the fermented mass. Keep covered
three months, stirring well daily. Then
strain through cloth, pressing the solid
part to extract all the moisture. Let
stand until "settled." then decant oft
the clear part and bottle for use.
Chinese soy is. I think, similarly
made, but is boiled and rebolled with
such additional materials as sugar,
mace, ginger and pepper, but of tills
I am not at all sure. The best plan,
as I said, is to buy It ready made. It
Is not very costly and Is quite trouble
some to make.
Signs of "AH Wool."
Two good ways of telling whether or
no the cloth you buy for "all wool"
Is really what It Is represented to be.
are given by Miss Annabell Turner, of
the home economics department of the
University of Wisconsin in the Univer
sity Bulletin.
"Unravel a sample of the material ex
posing the warp and weft threads sep
arately," she says. "Wool fibers are
more curly than the cotton. Then bum
some of the threads; if cotton, they will
burn quickly; if wool, more slowly,
with an odor like that of burning feath
ers or bone.
"If cotton and wool have been spun
together In the same thread, the abova
test Is not reliable. In such a case, tho
alkali test should be used. Mix together
one tablespoonful of lye and one pint
of water. Place the sample of goods
In a granite dish, cover with solution
and boil for five minutes. At tho end
of this time all the wool will be dis
solved out leaving the cotton intact.
so that it Is very easy to see how much
cotton was used to adulterate the 'pure
wool' fabric."
ONYX REPLACES SILVER
ON THE DRESSING TABLE
Every Feminine Bureau Rampant With Multitude of Near-Ivory Toilet
Trinkets Clocks, Photograph Frames and Others to Follow.
T.................... ...... ... ......... . . t
ONYX FOR BEDROOM,
' . '."-"ft
OW that Ivory dresser belongings
have been taken up by everybody.
In the shape of pyroxylin backed
brushes, jars, clocks and photograph
frames galore, and every feminine bu
reau Is rampant with a multitude of
near-ivory trifles, tumbling over each
other Just as plated silver dresser sets
used to do when these belongings were
the rage, exclusive milady has demand
ed something new and expensive for
her dressing table, and it has arrived
In the shape of carved onyx trays, jars
and boxes. Undoubtedly clocks, photo
graph frames and all the rest of the
tribe will speedily follow.
In the lid of an attractive new de
sign onyx powder Jar Is a sunken
opal whose fire seems to glow warmly .
from the milk-white onyx background.
The dainty box for jewelry, the shallow
tray and the green-rimmed hairpin
tray all are part of the set. which
would grace the dressing table of a
princes