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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Jan. 21, 1912)
DOMESTIC SCIENCE COURSE PROVES ATTRACTIVE TO SCHOOL GIRLS NOW Portland Mothers Declare Danfhten Are DeriTinf Great Benefit From Study of Home Problems u Given In Work in Public Schools Teachers Enjoy Rewards of Labor. i 'v. . 5 " : y . '- i .-; ottWOiW. I VVr - fir V.r !i "... l t L ' 5 ' $8 "W'N -I 'S-Ty AW Mm curse of coarseness thus veiled even the tlnr P'nk roses of the ten-cent tore can be used. Other slips which are to be veiled would find economical and dazzling" decking's in the cheaper sold and silver braids, put on In straight bands or In big- scattered bow knots. In fact, the veiled gown has Innumerable possibilities in Its scheme of under elegance. Among the very rewarding materials of thin sort are the beaded box fabrics and the bordered marquisettes sold by the yard. These textures are much re duced Just now, "and only a bit of vel vet or silk Is needed for the trimming. One enchanting coming-out gown seen recently was of crystal-beaded net. made up In a short-walsted bodice and straight tunic over white liberty satin. IQattler blue velvet formed the crushed belt of this frock, which fastened at the back, llttle-glrl way. with tiny knob-gjass buttons. A marquisette with a blurred chine border of pink rosea had the material put upside down In the tunic, so that the border ing crossed the figure at the hip. going down the sides toward the back like the eAgre of a coat; at the back the white part of the breadths were caught together with a knot of tiny artificial flowers, so that the bordering closed to gether In a V. None of the banding was used on the bodice, which was made of the white marquisette except for a back and front of pink chiffon. The undersleeves and modestle of the round waist were of white tulle, edged simply with a bias of pink satin. White, with touches of ptnk. Is gen erally preferred for the debuante gown, and despite its elegant details It Is generally commonly a very simple thing. But the beaded and tinseled ef fects are as suitable when the severer simplicity Is not becoming-, and with tinseled trimming or materials, of course, accessories match. A gown of gold tissue under white tulle was re cently worn by a New York debuante. gold fringes finishing the airy tunic end baby bodice and 'square sleeves. With this loveliness the girl wore old slippers and a band of gold in her hair. Her bouquet was of yellow orchids. These fairy, filmy effects, with more or less simplicity, are accorded all girls after sixteen the maiden rose buds in life's garden. In the point of style, the debutante" gown is never trained. The skirt es capes the floor all around, and Is de cidedly tight about the reet and skimpy over the hips: it may be plain or else trimmed as stated. Whatever the style of the bodice In other respects, the round neck and high waist line are exacted features: but sleeves may be quite short or three-quarter length. The Greek shirt, shown on the page, and discussed for women, is a dashing and appropriate thing in the tunic way for the debutante. When a gown has a long tunlo it Is full enough to hide the acantness of the petticoat, although the bottom line of the overdress Is held in tight. There ore no floating sash ends as hereto fore. Folded belts, belts of satin, silk or velvet or tinsel, without ends, take the place of the former sash. If the girl's figure Is meager she Is accorded pep luti tails to her bodice or else It takes the shape of a distinct coat. One shop creation which held flattering possibili ties In its hint to home sewers showed a rlaln pale blue satin slip topped by a bodice of figured cream lace. Blue satin braces combined with a belt fitted over the bodice, which was finished at the bottom with a puffed tall. Velvet Is Inappropriate for the debu tante costume, although it is much ad mired for her best street wear. For the little frock in which she makes her first bow to society there are only two exactions simplicity of effect and smartness. So surah silk or chiffon at 50 cents a yard may be used. MART DEAN. tt?w QDPiNfi HATS OF SOMBRERO TYPE BECOMING TO YOUNG FACES Tall Crown Is Made of Hemp and Wide Brim of Flexible Straw-Smart Models Are Also Decorated With Roses Mounted on Wire Stems. .AU ... ylaa my daughter took up I domestic science in her high school work. She never thought she would like It. but the more she studies the better she- llkee It: sh does very well in her cooklnjr at home, and takes a greater Interest In home life." The mothrr who wrote this recently to Miss Hedwig Bleeg. teacher of do mestic science in the Lincoln High School. Is only one of many throughout the city who hav sent similar reports to their daughters' teachers. My daughter has learned to serve so well, and handles her work with such confidence that we are all delighted, writes another mother. "I want to thank you for so kindly assisting my daughter In learning the art of cooking and also In finding that there is a real pleasure In It. he thought cooking uninteresting before going to rour class, but now takes pleasure In It. The. year's work exceeds my greatest ex pectations." Js the message, of another mother. Tearbera Rewards Are la Wrsu Sueh results are tha teacher's reward for the sometimes uphill work of show ing the young student not only how to do th practical things of home, life, but also the scientific and social valuo of them. With capacity to do any kind of work well comes pride In the doing of It: with a knowledge of reasons for different process, comes Intelligent pleasure and interest In them. -Ws have lost pride In our work, says s. well-known writer on domestio problems, "and have transferred our distaste, for poor work to work itself to the great danger of our physical and moral health. If "the maintenance of a finer order of home" Is a matter of deepest con cern to every member of the commu nity, it follows that the appropriate training of the home-maker is essen tial to the general welfare. The preparation of food Is only a part of the domestic science work In the Portland High Schools. Even more im portant Is the study of food in relation to health and life: studies of the com position, food value and money value of different typical foods: consideration of diets for different ages and condi tions: the use and abuse of "food fads": dangers from narrow or perverted per sonal tastes in diet; some knowledge of the "wider housekeeping" in regard to the purity of foods prepared outside the home. These and similar topics are taken op under the head of "food study" In tbe later part of the domestio science course. The work In chemistry becomes thus more Important and vital to a girl and an effort Is made for close corel latlon between the departments. Heme Problem Imeortaat. The term before graduation, the stu dent takes up the study of problems In household management, care and reno vation of household materials, the re quirement of a sanitary dwelling: study of division of income and expenditure, and similar practical topics, together with a short study In the development of home and family life, the ethical re lations of the home to society, and the responsibility of the home as a factor In public health and education. It is apparently not generally under stood by parents that cooking, food study and home economics may be tak en as optional subjects outside the do mestic science course proper; but quite frequently this Is done. Often girls who have taken a part of the work in cook ing "Just to fill In their programme have returned to finish the course, or to take post-graduate work before go ing on to higher institutions. High school domestic science counts as "entrance credit" at many if not all the colleges of the state, and Is. of course, particularly useful for those who are planning to take advanced work at the Agricultural College. It Is In the home, however, that the benefits of domestic science training are more immediately felt. It Is a study which brings a girl efficiency and a broader outlook: and, no matter how high or low the social or financial standing of her parents may be. It will help her to lead a happier and richer life and to be a more valuable social unit. Textiles Ect., for 1912 Debutantes THE debuante of IU has reason to congratulate herslf. for never were "coming-out" styles more suited to maidenhood. The best things, indeed, have a fairy loveliness, for dia phanous textiles, gold and sliver tissues and beaded and embroidered gauzes are de rlguer. Then how smart are tha trails of tiny flowers used on the plain textures, the wee posies of satin and bullion you see sewed to lengths of tar latan In ths shops, and those whose use may baffle you. On a net or chiffon dress these floral garlanding arc charming, suggesting the trappings of Tltanla. They are put at the center of skirt ruchlngs, as "garlands at the top of lace flounces and over bodices they trail with light suspender lines or merely He about the neck aad at tbe bottom of sleeves. A brilliant wrinkle for the home sewer these ravishing outside deck ings may be simulated on an undersllp with the cheapest artificial flowers. But these must only be on the slip which is to be covered wlthchlffon or soma other filmy material. With the Menus for One Week Tuesday. Spanish bmn soup. Broiled chops. Potato omelet. Minced carrots with peas. Chicory salad. Scalloped apples with lemon syrup. Coffee. Wednesday. Scotch barley broth. Liver loaf with tomato sauce. Glazed onions. Mashed potatoes. Lettuce salad. Orange pudding. Coffee. Thursday. Brown soup, with German soup balls. Stuffed pork tenderloins. Apple sauce. Brown potatoes. Lady cabbas. Field salad. French dressing. Orange Jelly. Coffee. Friday. Cream of celery soup. Brown fricassee of fish in casserole, with tomato tic. Jellied vegetable salad. Ginger sponge pudding. Coffee. Saturday. Vegetarian broth. Broiled steak. Parsnip cakes. Potato nests. String bean salad. Fig compote with cream. Coffee. Sunday. Oyster plant soup. Chicken en casserole. Glased sweet potatoes. Peas. Chicory and grape fruit salad. Chocolate trifle with fresh coco aim t. Coffee. Monday. Glblst soup, with Italian paste. Paprlca beef browned potato border. Buttered celerlac Lettuce salad. Hot Mima cake with cream. Coffee. Philadelphia Pepper Pot. Exchange. Cleanse and boll for an hour three pounds of honeycomb tripe and three pounds of "velvet" tripe. At the end of the hour pour off the water; add fresh boiling hot from the kettle, and cook until the tripe is tender. In another kettle boll a knuckle of veal slowly for three hours. Then cut the lean meat and the tripe Into Inch pieces and return to the veal broth. Pour into this kettle more than half of the tripe broth and add a tablespoonful of sweet marjoram (dried) and Summer savory with thyme. Mix the dried herbs well together before they go into the broth, and use rather more of the thyme than of either of the others. Now put into the pot a few peppercorns, one red pepper (minced), and salt to taste. Cut raw white pota toes Into small cubes: make small, light dumplings not larger than a marble drop Into the boiling pot, and cook SO minutes. This recipe should make rather more than a gallon. When cold (If it is not all eaten while hot), it should form a perfect jelly. It will keep for a week, and is as good when warmed up as at first, not losing Its flavor. If desired, a few allspice may be added. This Is done sometimes, but it is not so good as In tbe original state. Marriage of an Heiress. London Opinion. The heiress was about to marry a penniless peer. To him she said: "My dear, I'm rather a new woman, you know, so do you mind asking; the bishop to omit the word 'obey' In our wedding ceremony?" Lord Lacland stroked his mustache, smiled cynically and answered: "No. I don't mind, my love, I'll Just tell the old boy to make It 'love, honor and supply." r-i xv f . M:y-- .xwr .;Vi.v "'T -x ymWPfi i- . . ..V ' V $ , f i . iy v -- - - :'.. vVfetri "k "..-j - r k -Vk 1 tww osvsfJCfA. : . .?.;.- ".. . , ' 1 "V. ' SOMETHING like the dashing som brero type Is this new Spring hat which has a tall crown of hemp and a wide brim of flexible straw braid rolled back against it. Hats of this ti-na rnlled dlrectlv off the face In front, are becoming to young faces five roses are mounted on wire stems, so that they sway a bit when the head Is moved, though their weight holds them against the crown of theiat. The rolled back brim is evident again In this smart little- model for morning wear in the soutn. ine nL of blue straw of the light, flexible front, are hecoming to young tacea m mue oi.io.vv - and the shape Is Just now high in favor, j quality that may be bent and crushed The Lewis model pictuned is in prune I in the hand without injury. Over the color with a brim slightly lighter than.! blue straw brim is mounted a high bee the hemp crown. The velvet roses are hive crown of white taffeta silk ana in a splendid Burgundy shade, and all against this silk crown, at one side. is poised a big snowy butterfly, made of white wings and a bit of the blue straw. There is a smartness and tail ored effect combined with an exquisite daintiness about this hat that makes it indescribably charming. Tying ostrich in knots Is not alto gether a new idea. The graceful wil low plumes were all made in this way. But here are white split ostrich feath ers actually knotted in bowknot style, and this superb feather bow Is the only trimming on a smart Spring hat of khaki colored hemp, designed to ac company a white pernio frock for Riviera wear. This white frock was trimmed with bead embroidery In am ber coloring and the white pearl but tons have amber centers. The boots completed the color scheme, being of white buckskin with tan cloth tops on whioh were flat white pearl buttons. SPRING MILLINERY NOW PROVES MOST CHARMING TO FAIR WOMEN Hats Please Individual Taste as Well as Fashion's Ee-mirement-Taffeta in Chameleon Effect Is Craze, and Every Bonnet Now Shows "the White Feather" Pompons of Maline Airy and Beautiful NEW YORK, Jan. 20. (Special.) The most interesting thing about the new Spring millinery is its diversity. There seems to be no set style; no hard and fast type by which one must abide, to be in the fashion. Crowns are high and they are low. Brims are drooping and they curl up ward. Trimmings rear aloft in piquant and daring effects and they droop downward and touch the shoulder. The main thing to be considered in all this diversity of type Is becomingness; and it will be a hypercritical woman or a hopelessly homely one who cannot, this Spring-, find a hat that exactly suits her taste and type. Hemp seems to be the favorite straw with smart milliners and at least three fourths of the high - priced and ex clusive models are built of hemp;-or of hemp combined with some coarser and heavier straw. A beautiful model pictured one of tho most charming Paris hats of the early season is a Lewis hat of prune-colored hemp with a dashing, rolled-back brim of coarse straw braid in a sllg-htly palor prun shade. On top cf the crown are five big vel vet roses in. a splendid, deep Burgundy red, and each rose Is fastened to a long wire stem so that the flowers quiver and sway as the head moves with all the fascination of movement that makes the feather aigrette trimming so beautiful. Prune la Sow Color. Prune, by the way, is the color on which Madame Mode has set her par ticular fancy this season, and with the deep prune, raisin and grape shades are combined soft creams, rich Burgundy reds and a very dark navy blue. Prune and navy in combination are shown in another French hat pictured, this mod- .1 v. i n alan Kw T our 1 a The shArje is of fine mllan in navy blue and at either side of the nign crown are niiioaimig big velvet bows that are knotted in the new circular "plnwheel" effect, the bows being attached to the crown in such manner that the upper edges meet and form a pent-house or peaked effect. One of these pinwheels is in the fa vorite prune color and the other Is American Beauty shade! Who but a French milliner would dream of com bining prune. American Beauty and blue and accomplish with the combi nation an effect of unparalleled smart ness? Yet the real feature of Spring mil linery Is the Francois First feather. Indeed, every other hat now shows the "white feather" in a bold and un ashamed way. These Francois First feathers or Rembrandt feathers as they are sometimes called, since this trimming belongs to the time of Rem brandt. Francois First of France and t i . vtit a Trinff-innd slant back jauntily from the exact center of the front of the nat, ana tne crown ui un hat they accompany must have some thing of the soft, Tam effect of the hats of the period referred to. These soft crowns are made of velvet, of taf feta in the new changeable or chamel- ,nlnr ffaots nf UMV Of hemD. OT of straw braids of flexible quality. And sometimes tne unaer siae oi ine ig, Tarn crown Is of a darker material, the . h.i.. h.inr ininari with a corded piping. These Tam crowns are usually set wltnm roiling Drims oi a few models have brims made of the same fabric as the crown as, for In stance, the attractive model by Marie Crozet, which is built throughout of chameleon taffeta in green and blue and which has a Francois First feather in shades of green and blue, to match the silk. Tnrbaa Style Being Worm. Another taffeta hat by Vlrot is in East Indian turban style; that Is, the soft folds of lustrous silk are swathed round and round a high crown, lap ping across each other in front. There is no brim on this toque, but at the top of the silk swathing is a puffed crown-top of the taffeta which is in the very darkest possible shade of navy blue, the shade called crow's wing be cause of the blue-black lights in it. Directly in the center front of this Vlrot model rises inevitable the Fran cois First feather a fluffy brush af fair made of ostrich. These white feathers at the front of the hat give an effect of knowingness and sophistication to the face, and sometimes, one regrets, the face is a little hardened by the style; but the white feather of Francois and Rem brandt seems to have come to stay at least during the weeks of the early models for street wear with tailored suits. Only two types of hats are re quired In these first Spring weeks; smart, rather severely trimmed hats for use with tailored costumes of mohair or lightweight worsteds, and very dressy hats for use with the elaborate gowns that are worn at afternoon func Sons of a ceremonious nature. In the latter classification cornea a stunning hat by Maria Guy, which is one of the most beautiful millinery creations in shape and line and color ingseen in many a day. Indeed, so beautiful is this Maria Guy confection that the original model has been du plicated several times by its creator, lace being combined in each case with a long plume in the palest coloring. The lace, which is of gold Chantllly, is mounted over a graceful, low-crowned frame which has a large head size so that the big crown settles far down over the hair. The brim is wide and soft and at one side rolls over and over, back against the crown, this rolled over brim forming a tube, into which is thrust the stem of the superb white ostrich plume that droops over the side of the hat on the shoulder-v.,.- i ho.n ronented also in .champagne colored malines lace with - nna and in SllVBr a piumo in i-ii o duiw Chantllly with a pale gray plume. Hatbrlma Have "Own Movements." Every hat brim has a little move ment of Its own to paraphrase a pop ular musical hit. The French milliner speaks often of the "movement" of a hat brim, which may be piquant, or pic turesque or "sympathetic," and which must be emphasized by the arrange ment of the trimming, if the completed hat Is to express anything and, mind you, every French hat does express something, which Is the secret of Its Ineffable chic. You may not entirely grasp the meaning, but you are certain to feel the chic To get back to brim movements; It is really remarkable how many ways the hat manufacturers have found to make a brim roll; and it is exactly in this point of the roll or "movement" of the brim that 'lies the smartness of the model. The very exclusive hat has a subtle roll .Impossible to Imitate, yet replete with chic and charm. Cheaper models roll also, but the roll may be too emphatic which will make Just the difference between dash and hardness. It Is the woman who has an instinctive comprehension of this subtle quality of meanings in hat trimmings and hat shapes who makes a clever home mil liner. On the Riviera now everybody Is wearing champagne color. Hats are of light tan straw or of lace dyed In champagne tint and gloves and boots likewise take on a yellowish cast. At Monte Carlo recently a r rcntu . ess attracted mucH- attention by her costume all In tones of the fashion able champagne and light castor color. Her gown was of palest tan mohair with broad bands of crochet lace in the same shade, set into the tunic and forming- the bodice drapery. The waistline was emphasized with a soft, knotted sash of taffeta, weighed with fringe, and the draped hat crown was of the same pale tan taffeta, the brim being of coarse straw braid In a deep er castor tone. Sloping off at one side of the draped crown was a stun nlng plume of a rich prune color the emphatic darker color-tone that saved the costume from monotony. With this dainty gown were worn fairy-like boots of cream-colored suede with vamps of pale tan and flat buttons in ivory tint. The gloves were of champagne colored silk embroidered on the wrists In self color. Latest in Perfumes. Washington (D. C.) Herald. The latest luxury for the woman who likes a faint suggestion of sweetness about all her belongings Is the cake of perfume which may be tossed among1 lingerie or laces without the trouble of sewing sachet powder up in cotton bat ting and silk pads. These cakes of perfume are put up attractively, and when the perfume fails as all per fumes do when exposed to the air the surface of the cake may be scratched and a new surface of sweetness ex posed. These cakes of perfume are not by any means Inexpensive, a small size costing almost $1, but the perfume is dainty and refined, and by scraping1 the surface occasionally the cake may be used some time. I A Skin Tightener to Reduce Wrinkles (From Popular Medicine.) In beauty culture, as In the treat ment of disease, the tendency nowa days is to seek the removal of causes, rather than to treat symptoms or ef fects. In the matter of wrinkles, for Instance, we know that the lines or furrows are caused by the skin becoming- loose in places, so it does not per fectly fit the flesh beneath. The skin then "wrinkles" or sags. Naturally the proper' thing to do is to tighten the skin make it fit then there's no room for lines, wrinkles and folds, and no surplus skin to sag or bag. The best known formula for the pur pose is: Saxolite, 1 oz., in pint wltchhazel. Use as a wash lotion. The effect is truly remarkable, especially as results are Immediate. Ask the druggist for the powdered saxolite, which dissolves more quickly than any other form. Adv. rnk'fli-jJTTyiaii:iigiiH 15 I LADIES TcgjpM Lola Montez Crams -ikV J WILL U Te" PEOTECT A V iM PEESEEVE II J IMPROVE Iff' X Your Complexion K i J . Periled by Nettie IT' f Harrison, for 25 II V--"y jtJ years the Leadln fl B I HT Beauty Specialist ie, ,V,i II ol the W est. LJ50 .Km i It is used dally 'C5 M I thousands .T" f' I f V ol women. Ej WL ( , lar. 3 Month ' . .1 X V v ' IJ Treatment (rnrC SAMPLE ND BEAUTY BOOK J riLL mil unm humon ca.. u funcisuI mJ I 1 AUDI r IND BEAUTY BOOK MIS. NETTIE MAJ.JU5GN C8., UN FBAMCISMI A
