DOMESTIC SCIENCE COURSE PROVES
ATTRACTIVE TO SCHOOL GIRLS NOW
Portland Mothers Declare Danfhten Are DeriTinf Great Benefit From Study of Home Problems u Given In
Work in Public Schools Teachers Enjoy Rewards of Labor.
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curse of coarseness thus veiled even
the tlnr P'nk roses of the ten-cent
tore can be used. Other slips which
are to be veiled would find economical
and dazzling" decking's in the cheaper
sold and silver braids, put on In
straight bands or In big- scattered bow
knots. In fact, the veiled gown has
Innumerable possibilities in Its scheme
of under elegance.
Among the very rewarding materials
of thin sort are the beaded box fabrics
and the bordered marquisettes sold by
the yard. These textures are much re
duced Just now, "and only a bit of vel
vet or silk Is needed for the trimming.
One enchanting coming-out gown seen
recently was of crystal-beaded net.
made up In a short-walsted bodice and
straight tunic over white liberty satin.
IQattler blue velvet formed the crushed
belt of this frock, which fastened at
the back, llttle-glrl way. with tiny
knob-gjass buttons. A marquisette
with a blurred chine border of pink
rosea had the material put upside
down In the tunic, so that the border
ing crossed the figure at the hip. going
down the sides toward the back like
the eAgre of a coat; at the back the
white part of the breadths were caught
together with a knot of tiny artificial
flowers, so that the bordering closed to
gether In a V. None of the banding
was used on the bodice, which was
made of the white marquisette except
for a back and front of pink chiffon.
The undersleeves and modestle of the
round waist were of white tulle, edged
simply with a bias of pink satin.
White, with touches of ptnk. Is gen
erally preferred for the debuante
gown, and despite its elegant details
It Is generally commonly a very simple
thing. But the beaded and tinseled ef
fects are as suitable when the severer
simplicity Is not becoming-, and with
tinseled trimming or materials, of
course, accessories match. A gown of
gold tissue under white tulle was re
cently worn by a New York debuante.
gold fringes finishing the airy tunic
end baby bodice and 'square sleeves.
With this loveliness the girl wore old
slippers and a band of gold in her hair.
Her bouquet was of yellow orchids.
These fairy, filmy effects, with more
or less simplicity, are accorded all
girls after sixteen the maiden rose
buds in life's garden.
In the point of style, the debutante"
gown is never trained. The skirt es
capes the floor all around, and Is de
cidedly tight about the reet and skimpy
over the hips: it may be plain or else
trimmed as stated. Whatever the style
of the bodice In other respects, the
round neck and high waist line are
exacted features: but sleeves may be
quite short or three-quarter length.
The Greek shirt, shown on the page,
and discussed for women, is a dashing
and appropriate thing in the tunic
way for the debutante.
When a gown has a long tunlo it Is
full enough to hide the acantness of
the petticoat, although the bottom line
of the overdress Is held in tight. There
ore no floating sash ends as hereto
fore. Folded belts, belts of satin, silk or
velvet or tinsel, without ends, take the
place of the former sash. If the girl's
figure Is meager she Is accorded pep
luti tails to her bodice or else It takes
the shape of a distinct coat. One shop
creation which held flattering possibili
ties In its hint to home sewers showed
a rlaln pale blue satin slip topped by
a bodice of figured cream lace. Blue
satin braces combined with a belt fitted
over the bodice, which was finished
at the bottom with a puffed tall.
Velvet Is Inappropriate for the debu
tante costume, although it is much ad
mired for her best street wear. For
the little frock in which she makes her
first bow to society there are only
two exactions simplicity of effect and
smartness. So surah silk or chiffon at
50 cents a yard may be used.
MART DEAN.
tt?w QDPiNfi HATS OF SOMBRERO
TYPE BECOMING TO YOUNG FACES
Tall Crown Is Made of Hemp and Wide Brim of Flexible Straw-Smart Models Are Also Decorated With Roses
Mounted on Wire Stems.
.AU ... ylaa my daughter took up
I domestic science in her high school
work. She never thought she
would like It. but the more she studies
the better she- llkee It: sh does very
well in her cooklnjr at home, and takes
a greater Interest In home life."
The mothrr who wrote this recently
to Miss Hedwig Bleeg. teacher of do
mestic science in the Lincoln High
School. Is only one of many throughout
the city who hav sent similar reports
to their daughters' teachers.
My daughter has learned to serve so
well, and handles her work with such
confidence that we are all delighted,
writes another mother. "I want to
thank you for so kindly assisting my
daughter In learning the art of cooking
and also In finding that there is a real
pleasure In It. he thought cooking
uninteresting before going to rour
class, but now takes pleasure In It. The.
year's work exceeds my greatest ex
pectations." Js the message, of another
mother.
Tearbera Rewards Are la Wrsu
Sueh results are tha teacher's reward
for the sometimes uphill work of show
ing the young student not only how to
do th practical things of home, life,
but also the scientific and social valuo
of them. With capacity to do any kind
of work well comes pride In the doing
of It: with a knowledge of reasons for
different process, comes Intelligent
pleasure and interest In them.
-Ws have lost pride In our work,
says s. well-known writer on domestio
problems, "and have transferred our
distaste, for poor work to work itself to
the great danger of our physical and
moral health.
If "the maintenance of a finer order
of home" Is a matter of deepest con
cern to every member of the commu
nity, it follows that the appropriate
training of the home-maker is essen
tial to the general welfare.
The preparation of food Is only a part
of the domestic science work In the
Portland High Schools. Even more im
portant Is the study of food in relation
to health and life: studies of the com
position, food value and money value
of different typical foods: consideration
of diets for different ages and condi
tions: the use and abuse of "food fads":
dangers from narrow or perverted per
sonal tastes in diet; some knowledge of
the "wider housekeeping" in regard to
the purity of foods prepared outside
the home.
These and similar topics are taken
op under the head of "food study" In
tbe later part of the domestio science
course. The work In chemistry becomes
thus more Important and vital to a girl
and an effort Is made for close corel
latlon between the departments.
Heme Problem Imeortaat.
The term before graduation, the stu
dent takes up the study of problems In
household management, care and reno
vation of household materials, the re
quirement of a sanitary dwelling: study
of division of income and expenditure,
and similar practical topics, together
with a short study In the development
of home and family life, the ethical re
lations of the home to society, and the
responsibility of the home as a factor
In public health and education.
It is apparently not generally under
stood by parents that cooking, food
study and home economics may be tak
en as optional subjects outside the do
mestic science course proper; but quite
frequently this Is done. Often girls who
have taken a part of the work in cook
ing "Just to fill In their programme
have returned to finish the course, or
to take post-graduate work before go
ing on to higher institutions.
High school domestic science counts
as "entrance credit" at many if not all
the colleges of the state, and Is. of
course, particularly useful for those
who are planning to take advanced
work at the Agricultural College.
It Is In the home, however, that the
benefits of domestic science training
are more immediately felt. It Is a study
which brings a girl efficiency and a
broader outlook: and, no matter how
high or low the social or financial
standing of her parents may be. It will
help her to lead a happier and richer
life and to be a more valuable social
unit.
Textiles Ect., for 1912 Debutantes
THE debuante of IU has reason to
congratulate herslf. for never
were "coming-out" styles more
suited to maidenhood. The best things,
indeed, have a fairy loveliness, for dia
phanous textiles, gold and sliver tissues
and beaded and embroidered gauzes are
de rlguer. Then how smart are tha
trails of tiny flowers used on the plain
textures, the wee posies of satin and
bullion you see sewed to lengths of tar
latan In ths shops, and those whose use
may baffle you. On a net or chiffon
dress these floral garlanding arc
charming, suggesting the trappings of
Tltanla. They are put at the center of
skirt ruchlngs, as "garlands at the top
of lace flounces and over bodices they
trail with light suspender lines or
merely He about the neck aad at tbe
bottom of sleeves.
A brilliant wrinkle for the home
sewer these ravishing outside deck
ings may be simulated on an undersllp
with the cheapest artificial flowers.
But these must only be on the slip
which is to be covered wlthchlffon or
soma other filmy material. With the
Menus for One
Week
Tuesday.
Spanish bmn soup.
Broiled chops. Potato omelet.
Minced carrots with peas.
Chicory salad.
Scalloped apples with lemon syrup.
Coffee.
Wednesday.
Scotch barley broth.
Liver loaf with tomato sauce.
Glazed onions. Mashed potatoes.
Lettuce salad.
Orange pudding.
Coffee.
Thursday.
Brown soup, with German soup balls.
Stuffed pork tenderloins. Apple sauce.
Brown potatoes. Lady cabbas.
Field salad. French dressing.
Orange Jelly.
Coffee.
Friday.
Cream of celery soup.
Brown fricassee of fish in casserole, with
tomato tic.
Jellied vegetable salad.
Ginger sponge pudding.
Coffee.
Saturday.
Vegetarian broth.
Broiled steak. Parsnip cakes.
Potato nests.
String bean salad.
Fig compote with cream.
Coffee.
Sunday.
Oyster plant soup.
Chicken en casserole.
Glased sweet potatoes. Peas.
Chicory and grape fruit salad.
Chocolate trifle with fresh coco aim t.
Coffee.
Monday.
Glblst soup, with Italian paste.
Paprlca beef browned potato border.
Buttered celerlac
Lettuce salad.
Hot Mima cake with cream.
Coffee.
Philadelphia Pepper Pot.
Exchange.
Cleanse and boll for an hour three
pounds of honeycomb tripe and three
pounds of "velvet" tripe. At the end of
the hour pour off the water; add fresh
boiling hot from the kettle, and cook
until the tripe is tender. In another
kettle boll a knuckle of veal slowly
for three hours. Then cut the lean
meat and the tripe Into Inch pieces and
return to the veal broth. Pour into
this kettle more than half of the tripe
broth and add a tablespoonful of
sweet marjoram (dried) and Summer
savory with thyme. Mix the dried
herbs well together before they go
into the broth, and use rather more
of the thyme than of either of the
others. Now put into the pot a few
peppercorns, one red pepper (minced),
and salt to taste. Cut raw white pota
toes Into small cubes: make small,
light dumplings not larger than a
marble drop Into the boiling pot, and
cook SO minutes. This recipe should
make rather more than a gallon. When
cold (If it is not all eaten while hot),
it should form a perfect jelly. It will
keep for a week, and is as good when
warmed up as at first, not losing Its
flavor. If desired, a few allspice may
be added. This Is done sometimes,
but it is not so good as In tbe original
state.
Marriage of an Heiress.
London Opinion.
The heiress was about to marry a
penniless peer. To him she said:
"My dear, I'm rather a new woman,
you know, so do you mind asking; the
bishop to omit the word 'obey' In our
wedding ceremony?"
Lord Lacland stroked his mustache,
smiled cynically and answered:
"No. I don't mind, my love, I'll Just
tell the old boy to make It 'love, honor
and supply."
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SOMETHING like the dashing som
brero type Is this new Spring hat
which has a tall crown of hemp
and a wide brim of flexible straw braid
rolled back against it. Hats of this
ti-na rnlled dlrectlv off the face In
front, are becoming to young faces
five roses are mounted on wire stems,
so that they sway a bit when the head
Is moved, though their weight holds
them against the crown of theiat.
The rolled back brim is evident again
In this smart little- model for morning
wear in the soutn. ine nL
of blue straw of the light, flexible
front, are hecoming to young tacea m mue oi.io.vv -
and the shape Is Just now high in favor, j quality that may be bent and crushed
The Lewis model pictuned is in prune I in the hand without injury. Over the
color with a brim slightly lighter than.! blue straw brim is mounted a high bee
the hemp crown. The velvet roses are hive crown of white taffeta silk ana
in a splendid Burgundy shade, and all against this silk crown, at one side.
is poised a big snowy butterfly, made
of white wings and a bit of the blue
straw. There is a smartness and tail
ored effect combined with an exquisite
daintiness about this hat that makes it
indescribably charming.
Tying ostrich in knots Is not alto
gether a new idea. The graceful wil
low plumes were all made in this way.
But here are white split ostrich feath
ers actually knotted in bowknot style,
and this superb feather bow Is the
only trimming on a smart Spring hat
of khaki colored hemp, designed to ac
company a white pernio frock for
Riviera wear. This white frock was
trimmed with bead embroidery In am
ber coloring and the white pearl but
tons have amber centers. The boots
completed the color scheme, being of
white buckskin with tan cloth tops on
whioh were flat white pearl buttons.
SPRING MILLINERY NOW PROVES
MOST CHARMING TO FAIR WOMEN
Hats Please Individual Taste as Well as Fashion's Ee-mirement-Taffeta in Chameleon Effect Is Craze, and
Every Bonnet Now Shows "the White Feather" Pompons of Maline Airy and Beautiful
NEW YORK, Jan. 20. (Special.)
The most interesting thing about
the new Spring millinery is its
diversity. There seems to be no set
style; no hard and fast type by which
one must abide, to be in the fashion.
Crowns are high and they are low.
Brims are drooping and they curl up
ward. Trimmings rear aloft in piquant
and daring effects and they droop
downward and touch the shoulder. The
main thing to be considered in all this
diversity of type Is becomingness; and
it will be a hypercritical woman or a
hopelessly homely one who cannot,
this Spring-, find a hat that exactly
suits her taste and type.
Hemp seems to be the favorite straw
with smart milliners and at least three
fourths of the high - priced and ex
clusive models are built of hemp;-or
of hemp combined with some coarser
and heavier straw. A beautiful model
pictured one of tho most charming
Paris hats of the early season is a
Lewis hat of prune-colored hemp with
a dashing, rolled-back brim of coarse
straw braid in a sllg-htly palor prun
shade.
On top cf the crown are five big vel
vet roses in. a splendid, deep Burgundy
red, and each rose Is fastened to a long
wire stem so that the flowers quiver
and sway as the head moves with all
the fascination of movement that
makes the feather aigrette trimming so
beautiful.
Prune la Sow Color.
Prune, by the way, is the color on
which Madame Mode has set her par
ticular fancy this season, and with the
deep prune, raisin and grape shades are
combined soft creams, rich Burgundy
reds and a very dark navy blue. Prune
and navy in combination are shown in
another French hat pictured, this mod-
.1 v. i n alan Kw T our 1 a The shArje is
of fine mllan in navy blue and at either
side of the nign crown are niiioaimig
big velvet bows that are knotted in the
new circular "plnwheel" effect, the
bows being attached to the crown in
such manner that the upper edges meet
and form a pent-house or peaked effect.
One of these pinwheels is in the fa
vorite prune color and the other Is
American Beauty shade! Who but a
French milliner would dream of com
bining prune. American Beauty and
blue and accomplish with the combi
nation an effect of unparalleled smart
ness? Yet the real feature of Spring mil
linery Is the Francois First feather.
Indeed, every other hat now shows the
"white feather" in a bold and un
ashamed way. These Francois First
feathers or Rembrandt feathers as
they are sometimes called, since this
trimming belongs to the time of Rem
brandt. Francois First of France and
t i . vtit a Trinff-innd slant back
jauntily from the exact center of the
front of the nat, ana tne crown ui un
hat they accompany must have some
thing of the soft, Tam effect of the
hats of the period referred to. These
soft crowns are made of velvet, of taf
feta in the new changeable or chamel-
,nlnr ffaots nf UMV Of hemD. OT
of straw braids of flexible quality. And
sometimes tne unaer siae oi ine ig,
Tarn crown Is of a darker material, the
. h.i.. h.inr ininari with a corded
piping. These Tam crowns are usually
set wltnm roiling Drims oi
a few models have brims made of the
same fabric as the crown as, for In
stance, the attractive model by Marie
Crozet, which is built throughout of
chameleon taffeta in green and blue
and which has a Francois First feather
in shades of green and blue, to match
the silk.
Tnrbaa Style Being Worm.
Another taffeta hat by Vlrot is in
East Indian turban style; that Is, the
soft folds of lustrous silk are swathed
round and round a high crown, lap
ping across each other in front. There
is no brim on this toque, but at the
top of the silk swathing is a puffed
crown-top of the taffeta which is in
the very darkest possible shade of navy
blue, the shade called crow's wing be
cause of the blue-black lights in it.
Directly in the center front of this
Vlrot model rises inevitable the Fran
cois First feather a fluffy brush af
fair made of ostrich.
These white feathers at the front of
the hat give an effect of knowingness
and sophistication to the face, and
sometimes, one regrets, the face is a
little hardened by the style; but the
white feather of Francois and Rem
brandt seems to have come to stay at
least during the weeks of the early
models for street wear with tailored
suits. Only two types of hats are re
quired In these first Spring weeks;
smart, rather severely trimmed hats for
use with tailored costumes of mohair
or lightweight worsteds, and very
dressy hats for use with the elaborate
gowns that are worn at afternoon func
Sons of a ceremonious nature.
In the latter classification cornea a
stunning hat by Maria Guy, which is
one of the most beautiful millinery
creations in shape and line and color
ingseen in many a day. Indeed, so
beautiful is this Maria Guy confection
that the original model has been du
plicated several times by its creator,
lace being combined in each case with
a long plume in the palest coloring.
The lace, which is of gold Chantllly, is
mounted over a graceful, low-crowned
frame which has a large head size so
that the big crown settles far down
over the hair. The brim is wide and
soft and at one side rolls over and
over, back against the crown, this
rolled over brim forming a tube, into
which is thrust the stem of the superb
white ostrich plume that droops over
the side of the hat on the shoulder-v.,.-
i ho.n ronented also in
.champagne colored malines lace with
- nna and in SllVBr
a piumo in i-ii o duiw
Chantllly with a pale gray plume.
Hatbrlma Have "Own Movements."
Every hat brim has a little move
ment of Its own to paraphrase a pop
ular musical hit. The French milliner
speaks often of the "movement" of a
hat brim, which may be piquant, or pic
turesque or "sympathetic," and which
must be emphasized by the arrange
ment of the trimming, if the completed
hat Is to express anything and, mind
you, every French hat does express
something, which Is the secret of Its
Ineffable chic. You may not entirely
grasp the meaning, but you are certain
to feel the chic
To get back to brim movements; It is
really remarkable how many ways the
hat manufacturers have found to make
a brim roll; and it is exactly in this
point of the roll or "movement" of the
brim that 'lies the smartness of the
model. The very exclusive hat has a
subtle roll .Impossible to Imitate, yet
replete with chic and charm. Cheaper
models roll also, but the roll may be
too emphatic which will make Just the
difference between dash and hardness.
It Is the woman who has an instinctive
comprehension of this subtle quality
of meanings in hat trimmings and hat
shapes who makes a clever home mil
liner. On the Riviera now everybody Is
wearing champagne color. Hats are
of light tan straw or of lace dyed In
champagne tint and gloves and boots
likewise take on a yellowish cast. At
Monte Carlo recently a r rcntu .
ess attracted mucH- attention by her
costume all In tones of the fashion
able champagne and light castor color.
Her gown was of palest tan mohair
with broad bands of crochet lace in
the same shade, set into the tunic and
forming- the bodice drapery. The
waistline was emphasized with a soft,
knotted sash of taffeta, weighed with
fringe, and the draped hat crown was
of the same pale tan taffeta, the brim
being of coarse straw braid In a deep
er castor tone. Sloping off at one
side of the draped crown was a stun
nlng plume of a rich prune color the
emphatic darker color-tone that saved
the costume from monotony. With this
dainty gown were worn fairy-like boots
of cream-colored suede with vamps of
pale tan and flat buttons in ivory
tint. The gloves were of champagne
colored silk embroidered on the wrists
In self color.
Latest in Perfumes.
Washington (D. C.) Herald.
The latest luxury for the woman who
likes a faint suggestion of sweetness
about all her belongings Is the cake of
perfume which may be tossed among1
lingerie or laces without the trouble of
sewing sachet powder up in cotton bat
ting and silk pads. These cakes of
perfume are put up attractively, and
when the perfume fails as all per
fumes do when exposed to the air the
surface of the cake may be scratched
and a new surface of sweetness ex
posed. These cakes of perfume are not
by any means Inexpensive, a small size
costing almost $1, but the perfume is
dainty and refined, and by scraping1
the surface occasionally the cake may
be used some time.
I
A Skin Tightener
to Reduce Wrinkles
(From Popular Medicine.)
In beauty culture, as In the treat
ment of disease, the tendency nowa
days is to seek the removal of causes,
rather than to treat symptoms or ef
fects. In the matter of wrinkles, for
Instance, we know that the lines or
furrows are caused by the skin becoming-
loose in places, so it does not per
fectly fit the flesh beneath. The skin
then "wrinkles" or sags. Naturally the
proper' thing to do is to tighten the
skin make it fit then there's no room
for lines, wrinkles and folds, and no
surplus skin to sag or bag.
The best known formula for the pur
pose is: Saxolite, 1 oz., in pint
wltchhazel. Use as a wash lotion. The
effect is truly remarkable, especially
as results are Immediate. Ask the
druggist for the powdered saxolite,
which dissolves more quickly than any
other form. Adv.
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15
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TcgjpM Lola Montez Crams
-ikV J WILL
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A V iM PEESEEVE
II J IMPROVE
Iff' X Your Complexion
K i J . Periled by Nettie
IT' f Harrison, for 25
II V--"y jtJ years the Leadln
fl B I HT Beauty Specialist
ie, ,V,i II ol the W est.
LJ50 .Km i It is used dally
'C5 M I thousands
.T" f' I f V ol women.
Ej WL ( , lar. 3 Month
' . .1 X V v ' IJ Treatment
(rnrC SAMPLE ND BEAUTY BOOK J
riLL mil unm humon ca.. u funcisuI
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