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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Sept. 5, 1909)
THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, SEPTE3IBER 5, 1909. 7 Extremes and Extravagances Seem to Be Trend of FashionsPrevailing Vogues for This Season Types of "Advance Styles" as Seen on Stage and Street Indicate That There Will Be No jimit to the Number of Striking Adaptations From "Period" Gowns. , IF WE are to believe the showing's of the Parisian magazines, or to place credence In the hint wafted from the ultra-fashionable cities of the East by traveling actresses, who are always the first to display "advance styles" on the stage and on the street, we are upon the eve of an era of extremes and ex travagances of fashion which has prob ably never been surpassed. To be sure, earh of the new styles heralded from abroad. 1s supposed to be an adaptation from some historic "period" (hence the "period" frowns), but there seems te be almost no limit to the number of these adaptations, and, as a result, we are to have the eccen v tricJTlea of nun erous periods and various centuries given to us In a nightmare conglomeration, from the Parisians czars or czarinas of feminine fashions. Already In the windows of the local shops, we begin to see the flint harbing ers of what la to come, and although Portland merchants, very sensibly, do not maJce a custom of Importing the bizarre monstrosities which are worn quite generally In the gay French capital, we may expect soon to see on display such modifications of all these extreme styles' as will be Indorsed by the Ameri can idea of good taste. Butterfly Gowns Here. The Jersey frock, for Instance, has already come into its own quite pro nouncedly, not only in the local shops, but on the street an well, and the "but terfly" gowns, and caps, with their gauzy, jewelled gaiety, are beginning to appear, along with graceful modifications of the "washerwoman frock." and the plain "apron" gown, with Its queer up turned plalta and bunchy draperies. Back and front views of some of the more eccentric of the gowns now being generally worn abroad and finding favor In New York, are given In the accom panying pictures, sketched by The Ore gonlan's artist from the advance models Just unpacked by one of the exclusive locul costuming establishments. No. 1 and No. 6 show an exemplifica tion of the butterfly scarf gown. In a moth-gray, soft, cllnping novelty fabric, with touches of dull silver lace. Jewelled I In butterfly tints, and with three large ornamental puttons of peculiar gray trar.slucence, showing "butterfly"- lights. The skirt hangs full and long, and like all the new gowns of the type, is Im practical for walking about, being used principally for calling and afternoon af fairs, where the wearer, for the most part. Is either indoors or In her car riage or taxlcab. The gimp Is of soft silver cloth. Jewelled with butterfly discs, and the cape collar Is edged with rich silver Jace to match. A suggestion of the back of a butterfly Is given by the scalloped back banel. with its two rows of "butterfly" buttons, hanging from the shoulders. Lower down, the scarf sweeps around from the bust, across the hips, very low, and forms a "butterfly" bow. New Scarf Gowns Out. Another type of the scarf gown, in which such lines are merely suggested. Is shown in sketches No. 2 and No. 8. TbJs gown -Is of biscuit colored chiffon crepe, with scarf and panels of deep sapphire blue satin. Three rows of stitched tucks diagonally across the front of the skirt, release its fulness In that peculiar draped fashion which dis tinguishes several of the new gowns. The drape of sapphire satin crosses the high belt at the back very simply, leav ing the loose flowing fabric to sweep away In e long, unbroken line. At the front the each Is draped In the empire fashion under the bust, the ends being looped loosely so as to fall almost to the knees, then are knotted together leaving the ends to fall to the hem of the frock. A panel of the sapphire satin Is set in the dlrectolre slit of the skirt at the left side, and other touches of the blue satin are inset to finish the neck in back and front. No. 8 shows the front and No. 4 the back, of one of the new Jewelled Jersey, or corslet gowns. The corslet is of flexible metal cloth, which is made of overlapping metal discs eewn upon a. closely woven, elastic cloth. It fits the figure closely, its elasticity allowing it to give with every motion of the body, and lending to It a peculiarly sinuous effect. Thp gown is in wistaria and gold, with huKe daisy embroidery of the two tones ' Joining the corslet of dull gold metal cloth -to the soft, clinging fulness of the wistaria satin skirt. The daisy embroidery in wistaria and gold appears again In the short sleeves and at the bust, and a gimp of soft chiffon gauze, in bronze, with horizontal tucks finishes the oostume. The much-talked-of "washerwoman" frock, one of the charming combinations of color that help to excuse its extreme eccentricity. Is shown in No. B and No. 8. The skirt Is of Havana brown silk, and the apron and eurpliced bodice are of dlrectoire satin in pale yellow, with scattered coin dots in gold and brown, also loops of the brown silk. Another type of the apron frock Is shown In the smoke gray silk crepe affair sketched in No. 1 and No. 6. The eproh is edged with lace of combined gold and silver, and a touch of the same dainty combina tion Is seen finishing the neck of the gimp, whloh is of gray gauze, with fine horizontal tucks. One of the peculiar features of this costume, is the immense Inverted box plaits at the front, which give the smart panel effect and so dis tribute the extreme fulness of the soft gray crepe as to suggest the classic dTRpery of sculptery. New York Theatrical Season Will Open Early With Two Opera Companies in the Field Public Interest Is Also High In Dramatic Offerings Which Are to Be Produced by Rival Impresarios. THE early opening of the season In New Tors: Is a topic of Interest from coast to coast. This is not mere ly because of the Interest that people naturally manifest in the amusement world, which is centered in New York City, but because this throws the sea son open throughout the country relative ly early. It n quite startling to think of two full-fledged opera companies open by September 4 In New York. The Italian Opera Company at the Academy of Music is a completely new enterprise under general direction of G. Pinsutl. who has engaged a com pany said to be thoroughly good throughout, in which certain features will be set forth In order to offset the lack of the hieh-prlced stars. The highest prices will be li.60. and it is understood that some of the wealthiest Italians In the East are in support of the scheme. There is an enormous Italian popula tion In New York City and there is a very large number of Americans who would support opera at medium price, in consequence of which it is not im possible that Mr. Pinsutl may succeed. While toe names of his artists are not known to the general public, many of them are known to the people who are acquainted with the better opera houses of Europe. The list of princi pals Includes: Mmes. Ester Adelberto. Kster errablnl. Tina Tlfani, Matilde de Ctmpo, Augusto Faledmayer, f;uerina Kabri and Inez Perago, and Messrs. Nicola Zerola. Giuseppe Ar pialnl. Eugenio Battalnl. Primo Malnt. Vln-enzo Montanarl. Ernesto Caronna, Talllen Eegura. Alfredo Seccl. Paolo Wulnian. Giovanni Gravlna, Lulgl Lticerti. MlchelV Sampler!, Agide Jac chla and Giuseppe Angellnl. Oscar Hammeratein is ready to open his educational opera season, which bears the name because the great im presario figures that at the prices he will offer this season it will be possible for every one to become acquainted more intimately with opera. He also figures that ho will be educating a class which will shortly graduate an audience into the Manhattan. The ini tial opera of the season will be Meyer beer"s "Le Prophete." which will be given In French Angust 30. with M. Lucas in the title role. T.e Prophete" has been heard so seldom in New York as to he virtually a novelty. The title role uas been sung in Paris by Lucas with great success. In fact it was his work In this opera that first Impressed Mr. Hammerstein. It will also serve to introduce to the American public Mme. D'Alvarez. a Spanish contralto who has been one of the leading artists at the Koyal Opera in Antwerp. Mme. D'Alvarez will sing the role of Fides. Others in the cast will be MM. Leroux, tenor: Le.sk In and NIcolay, bassos. The second attraction will be Signer' Carasa. the young Spanish tenor found by Mr. Hammerstein In London, concern ing; whom the papers have printed many paragraphs. He will make his debut in "Aida" on Tuesday night, with Mme. Alice Baron, late of the Paris opera, said to be one of the beat French dramatic sopranos, who will make her American debut In the title role. Mme. Soyer will be the Amnerls, M. Pinataro, Henri Scott and others will be cast. Mr. Scott in a well-known concert basso from Philadelphia who makes his first appearance in opera upon this occasion. -Mme. Marguerite Sylva, who, a few years ago, was one of the most popular of light opera prima donnas In America, will make her American debut in grand opera in the title role of Carmen, in which she won distinct triumphs in Europe. M. Duffault, a French tenor entirely new to New York, will sing Ion Jose. Mme. Walter-Villa will sing Mlcaela, and the Toreador will be M. Las kin. "Lucia" will be the bill on Thursday evening, and "Travlata" is scheduled for later in the week. The conductor will be Sturanl who, last season was the musi cal conductor at the Philadelphia Opera-House. While there have been no definite plans and consequently no announcements, it is hardly to be doubted that Mr. Hammerstein will send this company onto the road after the close of the New York engagement around November 10, when the Man hattan opens. Mr. Hammersteln's plans for Chicago are leaking out here and there. He in tends to be on the ground during the same month that the Metropolitan will be there and to remain there definitely after he can set into motion his plans for a 81,000.000 opera-house. This brings back to mind the occurrence of last season, when Caruso was billed for Chicago and could not sing. Mr. Hammerstein and Otto H. Kahn. of the Metropolitan, have always been friends and to do him a kindness Mr. Hammerstein let the Metro politan have Zanatello. It is said that Mr. Knhn told Hammerstein that in re turn he should have any courtesy he should ask. However, when Mr. Ham merstein wanted the Auditorium he found that Klaw & Srlanger had leased the theater to the Metropolitan. This decided Mr. Hammerstein to. play a sea son of four weeks during the same dates it ilwW that the Metropolitan is to be there, con sequently Chicago, like New York, will be able to boast two of the greatest or ganizations of the world at the earns time, Meanwhile light opera is on Broadway with quite as much swing and dash as in midwinter, inasmuch as 'The Gay HuBsars" has been pronounced as suc cessful and attractive as "The Merry Widow." by which people insist upon drawing their measurements. This is Henry W. Savage's new Hungarian op eretta with which he opened the Knick erbocker. Muriel Terry, in the leading role, has made such a success that al ready Mr. Savage has decided to star the English singer next season in a new musical piece called "Prinee Willie." Al though the young girl is English. Jhe daughter of Colonel Charles Terry of the British army stationed at Lahore, India, where Miss Terry was born, her singing of English may be regarded as something of a novelty, as, after receiving a musical education in the Koyal College of Musio she left England and was engaged at the National Theater in Mannheim, where she became the leading mezzo soprano. She aprjears In the "Gay Hussars as Volunteer Cadet Marosl and is the first woman in several years who ha scored a success in a boy's part. The operetta has plenty of Hungarian color and dash and Is probably on for another of those indefinite runs which Mr. Savage so well understands how to handle, in fact bring about. Riotous ap plause began with the last note of the overture and never stopped. David Belasco, for one, has decided to put all his energy toward developing the American actor and playwright ana states ooenlv that every play to be staged by him this Winter, and every actor In his companies will be an Amer ican. Mr. Belasco further announces that he will give Blanche Bates her lorur-awaited opportunity to appear in "Twelfth Night" and "As You Like It.' How far these are American plays, how ever, is something our energetic and talented impressarlo does not tell us. David Warfield, too, is becoming more decided that he wants to play bnyiocK, and Mr. Belasco is planning to give him the chanoe. David Warfield is a man with a tremendous mentality, ana tnere is reason to believe that his Shylock would be a memorable and notable one. He will continue to play "The musio Master" until Spring, when he will have a new play, tuancne caies win In a new play as soon as she has com pleted her tour in "The Fighting Hope." Mr. Belasco has Just opened his season at Atlantlo City with Ditriohsteln's "Is Matrimony a Failure?" He will also put on shortly a new play by Eugene Walter called "Just a Wife." in which Charlotte Walker, the playwright's beautiful wife, will play the principal role. Mr. Belasco will also begin rehearsing a special company in a new American play of his own as soon as the Ditrlch steln play is off his hands. There will be other plays by Clyde Fitch. William De MUle, Avery Hopwood, Austin Strong and a new writer, Alice Bradley. Meanwhile Charles Ftohman Is corral ling all the plays and actors that he can lay his hands upon, tio matter from what section of the world they may happen to hall. For Instance, on Thurs day flight he gave "Arsene Lupin" its first performance in English at the Lyceum Theater in New York and in London. This Is said to be the most absorbing and interesting detective play the modern stage has yet seen. William Courtenay, Sidney Herbert and Doris Keane have the chief parts in a cast that numbers over 30. "Arsene Lupin" is in three acts and four scenes, by Francis De Crolsset and Maurice Leblanc, and Is at present the great vogue In Paris. Its story begins af the palatial home of Gounay-Martin, a pleblan grown tremendously rich. Along with the acquisition of millions Gounay-Martin has acquired a taste for prize pictures. Parvenu-that he Is. he has amassed a magnificent gallery. Some of the canvases are hung in the castle at Charmarace, which Gounay-Martin has bought. Others he keeps in his town house in Paris. Gounay-Martin has bought the castle from the young Duke of Charmarace, who at the same time has become engaged to Miss Germalne Gounay-Martin. Germalne has as her companion a charming little Russian, Sonla, whose melancholy air attracts the Duke, especially when Sonla Is rude ly treated by Germalne. It doesn't take the Duke long to feel pity and then affection for the pensive little Russian. Otherwise everything would be serene In the castle If It were not for the fact that Gounay-Martin has received a letter which troubles him exceedingly. The famous thief, Arsene Lupin, writes him that tomorrow he is going to call at Gounay-Martin's house in Paris, and that he desires such and such a picture and certain carefully described articles of value. Gounay-Martin Is very much excited FURNITURE AND RUG PRICES SMASHED To the dismay of the trade, we are still knocking high prices into a cocked hat. Such price-cutting is a revelation to people who know furniture and carpet values, but it brings the business, and that is what we want. Glance over our offerings today, come and see the goods and you will agree with us that our prices are not duplicated elsewhere. Lest you should forget, we are still closing out our entire carpet stock at actual cost. A SAFE PLACE TO TRADE BEST VALUES, LOWEST PRICES Box Seat Chair Box seat Chair, ex actly like cut; quar t e r e d oak, uphol stered with genuine leather and well padded. This chair is well worth $4.50. We are giving a spe cial price for this week only. Reduced to 2.85 Bed Davenport, reg. $28, now. .$20.00 Kitchen Treasure, now S3. 50 Iron Bed, regular $6, now $4.00 Mission Rocker, reg. $7.50, now. 85. 00 6-ft. Pedestal Extension Table. .8.50 Dining Chair, Cane Seat $1.00 Schmeer's Solid Comfort Silkoline Mattress Only S6.50 77 This mattress contains nothing but white felted cotton in layers, and pure silk floss; this is the best mattress made for the price. Try one 6.50 ROOM RUGS 9x12 Axmlnster Rugs. . . ... .818.50 8x12 extra quality Seam less Tapestry 16J10 9x12 good Tapestry Rug. . :t3.50 8x11 Tapestry Rug $10.50 9x12 all-wool Ingrain Rug.S 8.75 9x9 all-wool 'Ingrain Rug. 8 7.50 9x12 Union Art Square 9 5-50 Stoves and ranges, complete line W 9 Dresser, exactly like cut; has French bevel plate mirror, 20x 30, shaped; size of top, 21x42, all hardwood, golden oak finish; has divided drawers and serpen tine. This is a very large dress er and the construction is first class. Regular price $20. Our extra special price... .13.50 Early English or Golden Quartered Oak Buffet. This Buffet, exactly like illus tration, made with good select ed quartered oak; size of top 21x42 inches, French bevel plate 10x38 ins.; has divided draw ers ; one large drawer for linen, also cupboard on each side, -with art glass, protected by wood panels. This buffet is good value 20.00 rat Parlor Suite, 3 pieces, like illus tration ; mahogany finished frame, upholstered with green velour; loose cushions; this suite is exceptional good value. Our special price 15.00 Taubenheimer & Schmeer Carpet & Furniture Co. 174 First Street Corner Yamhill and annoyed at the letter. He would flee in his automobile but that accom plices of Arsene Lupin have come to the castle and under pretext of buying a second-hand automobile have stolen all the Gounay-Martin machines that are capable of speed. When Gounay-Martin gets to his town, house in Paris the next morning it is too late. Arsene Lupin has done his work: and left his marks. But Guerchard arrives. He is the very pink of Paris policemen. He questions Sonla, but she hesitates. Guerchard searches her coat. He finds a piece of tissue paper that could have contained the pendant stolen from Germaine, but the jewel is not to be found. But Guerchard continued his search, and while he is at work the Duke, all the while a calm spectator, signs one of his cards, which passes Sonla through the line of agents surrounding the castle. Guerchard is furious at her escape. especially when he discovers that it was the young Duke who accomplished it. Then the thought strikes him is not the Duke and Arsene Lupin one and the same? However, Arsene Lupin continues to play with the police and with Guer chard as he might play with toys. The great detective receives a letter in which the thief tells him that he will come at midnight" for the tiara he left 'behind him the night before. The tiara Is handed to Guerchard by Gounay-Martin. The Duke and Guerchard are left together both awaiting the coming of Arsene Lupin. Gerald du Maurler, the well known English actor will join . the Prohman forces, and is now rehearsing a part in "Arsene Lupin." Irene Vanbrugh is another English . actress engaged for the chief role in Flnero's "Mid-Channel." Mr. Frohman will not only fcring over English plays and actors but he has also a definite assurance from Sir Conan Doyle that the author will oome to America for the first performance of his new play "The Fires of Fate" which Mr. Frohman has decided to put on at the Hudson Theater. Mr. Froh man will make another simultaneous presentation of Plnero's play "MldChan- nel, which will have Ethel Barrymore in the principal woman's part In Am erica. The London rehearsals have al- Cosy Little Six-Room Bungalow By Bungalowcraft Company, 403 Chamber of Commerce, Los Angeles, Cal. i - ready commenced at the St. James The ater. The next great play to be given early In the season by Mr. Frohman is "Israel" the new play by Henri Bern stein which is to have its first produc tion et the Gaiety Theater in New York with a cast which will Include Con stance Collier, Edwin Arden, recently with Miss Doro, and Graham Brown the well known London actor who Is com ing to New Tork to create in English the part of the son "Thibault," Prince de Clar in the Bernstein play. Marie Tempest's American tour in "Peri elope," another play by G. Somer set Maugham, will begin in December and continue until the end of April. Another English actor is Vernon Steel, for some time a member of the Play house Company who has been engaged as leading man for Billy Burke. This charming little actress will again be heard in "Love Watches" on tour. She will play as far West as San Francisco returning to Chicago for the month of November and while there she will re hearse a new play to succeed Marie Tempest at the Lyceum Theater In New York. Quite too good to keep is the ex perienoe of one of the New York re porters who found Mr. Frohman rather difficult to draw into personal gossip The story is told as follows: Enter, a long, lean, hungry-looking official. "Is thlB Mr. Frohman?" "Yes." said the manager. "Won't you sit down; here, try one of my cigars." "You're just back from London?" asked the newcomer. "Well, nearly so," said Mr. Frohman. "All right; near enough for my pur poses," went on the stranger. "The fact is, I am a reporter on the New York Dally Screech, Mr. Frohman, and I want to know what you can tell me about Mr. and Mrs. Blank's domestic affairs. I understand they are both members of your London company." "They are members of one of my London companies." said Mr. Froh man.' "but I am sure I don't know a thing about their domestic affairs; and anyhow, you wouldn't have me signal my return to America by talking Lon don gossip, would you?" "Oh, no," said the reporter of the Dally Screech reassuringly, "but can you give me anything for copy? Will you. at any rate, tell me whether Mr. and Mrs. Blank are living happily to gether?" "Now as man to man, which would you rather do have another cigar or oblige me to give some sort of an an swer?" asked Mr. Frohman playfully. "I think I would rather have some kind of an answer," answered the re- porter, hope ever rising eternal in the reportorlal breast. "Well, then, you can say for me," answered the manager, "that so far as Mr. Frohman knows, Mr. and Mrs. Blank are living happily, but not to gether." EMILIE FRANCES BAUER. WILL SHOW NAVAL POWER Kaiser to Inspect Greatest German Fleet Ever Assembled. (BERLIN, Sopt. 4. (Special.) On board the Imperial yacht Hohenzollern the Kaiser will, tomorrow. Inspect at Klet the greatest German naval force ever assem bled. H--'l The fleet taking part In the maneuvers consists of 16 battleships, four large ar mored cruisers and 10 other cruisers, eight coast-defense Ironclads, five torpedo boat flotillas, all, with the exception of one flotilla, consisting of large modern craft; two submarine mining vessels, two special divisions of mine-destroying craft, and four submarines, the latter of which left a Danzig yard only four weeks ago. The strategical part of the maneuvers will take place in the North Sea, and the tactical maneuvers in the Baltic, More than six months have been occupied in preparatory practice by the various squadrons. Much time especially has been devoted to torpedo attacks by day and night. From September E to September 8, spe cial landing maneuvers will take place on the eastern coast of Schleswlg-Hol-steln. Striking figures showing the growth of the German Navy sinne 1905 sre con tained in a recent official publication. The vessels now number 1X3, with a ton nage of 638,393, as against 120 ships of a tonnage of 500. 9S3 In 1905. The engine power has risen from 6?2.6)!0 horsepower to 980.680. These figures do not Include torpedo craft and submarines. The vessels added In less than four years Included eight battleships and 13 cruisers. The Navy now comprises 29 battleships, of 321,703 tons, and 52 cruis ers of 21.602 tons. The torpedo craft number 90. Father and Mother Compared. Exchange. An Important difference. between Mother and Father: Father has to have the measles In order to sympathize with the children, but Mother dt-3i't. Th emlmatod oopulatlnn of BntfarMj nd TVa!? In 3S..1SO.00O, as rcatnst 81. 51". 000 tea yar BR". PLAN HO- 3 3-A . The illustration shows a clever hand ling of a roomy little house for a nar row lot. This is one of two houses Just completed in Oakland. Cal., at a cost of about C600. each, with good plumbing, plastered walls and small cellar. An economical feature of this house is that it is built with 14-foot studs, thus giving an 8-foot celling for each floor, and as will be seen, the slanting cut off the eecond-etory ceUing Is taken In by the closets, thus giving full height ceilings to the upper bedrooms. The house is only 24-foot front by 28 feet deep, but there is no pent-up air about it. The exterior . is weather boarded battering up to the water table and then shingled with shingle roof. The porch recesses back of the front line, and a. small shed roof projects beyond It, not only for shade Btid protection, but to break up the front of the house. The floor arrangement was mads with constant thought of convenience, as well as cozy comfort and beauty. There is a fine, large brick mantel nd fireplace, a handsome built-in buffet In the diningroom; the kitchen Is built in complete cabinet style, with every con venience right at hand. Laundry trays and a toilet are on the screen porch, and eaoh bedroom has plenty of closet room, some of the closets being large enough for trunks and storage. The lin en closet is right beside the bathroom door, at the head of the stairs. The com plete working plans and specifications for this house may be had for J10, and any inquiries regarding bungalows or bungalow building, addressed to the Bun galowcraft Company, 403 Chamber of Commerce. Los Angeles, Cal., will re ceive prompt and detailed replies without charge. PJBCOfflHG Is an ordeal which all women approach with indescribable fear, for nothing compares with the pain and horror of child birth. The thought of the suffering and danger in store for her, robs the expectant mother of all pleasant anticipations of the coming'event, and casts over her a shadow of gloom which cannot be shaken off. 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D., Chief Consulting Physician to the Invalids' Hotel and Sur iol In.ritiite at Buffalo, a book of 1008 large pages and over 709 illustrations, in strong paper covers, to any one sending 21 one-ceat stamps to cover cost of mailing only, or, in French Cloth binding for 31 stamps. Over 680,000 copies of this complete Family Doctor Book were told in cloth binding at regular price of $1.50. Afterwards, one and a half million copies were given away as above. A new, np-to-date revised edition is now ready for mailing. Better send NOW, before all are gone. Address Wokld's Dis rBNSAJtr Mbdical Association, R. V. Pierce, M. D., President, Buffalo, N. Y. DR. PIERCE'S FAVORITE PRESCRIPTION THE ONE REMEDY tor woman's peculiar ailments good enough that its makers are not afraid to print on its outside wrapper it every ingredient. No Secrets No Deception. THE ONE REMEDY for women which contains no alcohol and mo habit-forming drags. 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