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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Sept. 5, 1909)
CORRESPONDENCE PAGE OF FASHIONS- AND' BEAUTY HOW TO REMOVE THE BLEMISHES. OF VACATION SMART AND PRACTICAL PHASES IN THE NEW COATS ALMOST the first garment to be con sidered with Autumn wear la a top coat of soma sort, for with thia cov ering many a Summer gown may be worn until actually chill weather. Those who are provided with the hand some sleeveless coats of cloth or silk or satin, which have BO elegantly covered thin frocks and beea such distinctive fea tures of the ract season, will continue to wear them up to the last moment, with the addition of loose sleeves of a con trasting; material, set In under the orna mental armhole. Some coats doctored In this way showed sleeves of silk with cloth and others of a heavily lined lace with silk. In every case the two mate rials were effective together and the reconstructed garment suggested still more good service to come. One dressmaker's Idea was to make the ' sleeves detachable. To all Intents and purpose they were sewed In the gar ment, but In reality they were held on with safety pins, a bias piece extending beyond the armhole gathering for this purpose. First Madame puts on her s.eeves. fastening them at the shoulder and under the arm with a pin. After that, on goes the coat, whose shoulder portions, however, must be longer than Is common, to hide evidence of the make believe. The sleeves. In many Instances, were close at the top and fell In a be coming bell over the hand. The first new coats to appear with the young season are generally of a practi cal nature, such hip length garments aa would be used for walking, or the long length which suggest rain and chill winds- Every wool coat material hither to seen is repeated In these models now In every shop, and not uncommonly the upper garment -of a tailor sown will fol low the exact lines of the old coat. Brown and grays, of course, predomi nate, as alwaya. for odd coats, as these colors suit themselves to any gown. But numerous novelties In mixed materials are also seen, these admitting of dressy braid and velvet trimmings, which the plain cloth or cravenette coats In the best taste rarely show. The sleeve of the new coat Is, unfor tunately, too close to admit of entire comfort except with the tightest under sleevea, ' but the mannish finish of most of the necks gives plenty of ease there. The shawl collar In single piece, of vel vet, satin or silk. Is a favorite neck finish for a number of coats, both for misses and women. , The models here Illustrated demon strate eome very smart phases In practi cal Autumn coats, the designs suggesting good styles for ready-made buying or home-making. Figure AHere Is an excellent coat for traveling on land or sea, and one suitable as well for dry weather shopping or other practical purposes. The material Is a diagonal storm serge, a stuff which Is very swagger In a dark green, smoke Jgray or warm brown. The pockets, which i MISTRESS AND MAID IN THE ONE-SERVANT HOME THE difficulty of keeping- domestic help. If no other reason, should make the one-servant home the most solicitous of the welfare of its solitary maid. Bad servants abound, but It takes two to make an utter fail ure, and I am inclined to think, Judg ing; from close observation of many methods, that a number of the cases of dissatisfaction with domestio help may be laid at the mistress own door. The general houseworker, like every other servant, has only one pair of hands, and always less training than the maid who follows a special line of domestio work. Knowing all this, good housekeepers never expect too much of the single servant, and add their own efforts to hers In keeping the home in perfect working order. These ladies do all the thinking for the establish ment, and so keep the responsibility on their own shoulders. They attend to the buying; of all household necessaries themselves and plan every meal. They wash the finer glass and crockery and silver with their own hands, after the manner of the ladies of old. and help with the dusting and airing of chambers on laundry days. They know more of cook log than any maid who enters their service, and so are able to train "the lelp" In ways of economy as well as of exrelle-nt eating. In fact; a good servant Is generally assured If there Is a good mistress to begin with, for the housekeeper who Is herself properly trained may with time and patience turn the veriest greenhorn into a peaxl of servants. To many minds the nationality of the girl has a great deal to do with satis factory results. To others the quality which breathes from the stranger her self with the first Interview is every thing. t , One lovelv old Southern lady s method of reading the character of a new maid was to look straight Into her eyes dur ing the preliminary talk at the Intelli gence office. If the girl looked back frankly, sweetly, sympathetically with that gentle, half smile which says. "I know I am going to love you" she hired her on the spot. The device Is rtainlv worth trying. There Is a standard of prices and privileges. The general houseworker !of any experience demands from $18 "to $25 a month, and in most locali ties it Is an unwritten law that she will ave every Thursday afternoon and alternate Sunday evening to herself. But in the matter of outings It is better to err on the safe side and grant too Imanv than too few, for tne heart giaa Idened by a little change from hard (work Is apt to keep some of its smiles the next day. The respectable young man who calls once a week with serious Intent must have the privilege of the kitchen for his courtship. On Christmas some one of the girls relatives or friends should be allowed to dine with her If she wishes It. and If she Is a Catholic In belief and wants to go to high mass occasionally, the comfort should he allowed her. The mistress must remember. In fact, in all her behavior toward her servant that the latter Is not bound to stay: and If she goes about things rightly she can soon make her helper see that she has the maid's Interest as well as her own at heart. And this. too. without making the maid feel that the mistress is trying to regulate butt In on her own personal affairs. System Is Indispensable for the proper running of the one-servant home. Every day must have Its spe rlnl duties, and in no wise Is it pru dent for the mistress to make a habit of changing the day's work or Inter rupting the maid with demands for other and sjulte unexpected service. The general houseworker must rise very early Monday morning and do some part of the laundry before break fast, or at least put the clothes to soak. She then gets a simpler break fast than Is common: and If she has been properly trained, she takes down the fresh white muslin cap and apron which are banging In the closet and puts them on before carrying in the breakfast, which she must also serve. are set oddly under a scalloping made In the coat Itself, are a novel and capacious feature. Certainly nothing Is more attrac tive in a coat than a pocket big enough to hold the small necessaries that go with an outdoor getup. Such a coat would be preferable ready- made, unless a home sewer feels herself entirely capable of getting the good hang required, and knows all tne oiner ins ana outs of coat-making. The expert "sewer will find the model easy enough to ac comnlisli. and only four yards of double width goods would be required for the medium figure. Figure B. Another coat of a very use ful Quality Is given wun tnis loose raoaei. The design -fills every need for automo- blling or traveling, but the very simpnc lty of It makes it perfectly suitable also for hard walking service. - Cloth, eraven- ette, diagonal serge, mixed cheviot, aTe all correct materials. The buttons should be of bone In a matching color, and though a piping of a contrasting material could be used at the front and on pockets and cuffs, a stnsle material and handsome etltchlng would make a more distinctive garment. For a medium flsure 8 5-8 wards of ma terlals 27 Inches wide would be required. Figure C This model, with perfect suitability could be used for the top varment of a girl s practical tailor rrocK. Navy blue, diagonal serge or brown in any of the Autumn shades seen, would be smart and useful choices In color, with the collar and buttons velvet. Such belted Norfolk styles will be most ap proved for misses' wear, for many an un formed young fUure needs Just their ease and loose effect. Topped by a hat somewhat dressier In effect, and with neat boots and gloves, a Norfolk coat dress may also form a girl's best street frock, for It Is an error to suppose that that a school miss requires the flxy effects of her elders. For a girl of IS. 24 yards of serge 44 Inches wide would be required for this model. Figure D. This dapper little garment, whose- very plainness is Its chief charm depicts the smartest topcoat of the sea son for women. A soft shade of brown covert or that with a greenish tinge a pure tan would be too light for Autumn use Is the preferred material; and If the coat Is lined with farmer's satin, or a stout quality of twilled silk. It would do service far into the Winter. The lining Is a very Important point In the smartness of a coat, and the beet effects always are obtained by having the doubling match the outside color aa nearly as possible. However, a coat In pale cream cloth may be lined and trimmed with black satin, for Paris models set the stamp of possibility on such freaks of fancy. But other French coats will show the garment and lining In one color, though a flowered figure In the lining may deepen the tone. With the wider widths of covert cloth, onlv 24 yards would be required by the medium figure for this trim walking coat. MARY DEAN. The slatternly look that the maid of all work presents so often on wash day, and sometimes, alas! at the front door, is Inexcusable, and the offense may be traced directly to the mistress neglecting to provide the details so necessary for a neat and fitting ap pearance. Such Items as whits after noon aprons, caps or the. muslin bows which stand for them, and band col lars and cuffs are usually supplied by the mistress, and they again become her property when the maid takes it into her bead to seek pastures new. As to the matter of wearing the cap, since American-born maids object to it on the score of the degredation it im plies, the matter must me discussed and settled before the girl Is engaged. The girl having finished waiting- at the breakfast table, she removes the greasy dishes and leaves the others to the lady or ladles of the house, -who clear them up promptly with a bowl of hot water that the girl leaves on the table or In the pantry. After that the mistress sweeps up whatever crumbs may have fallen at the table, dusts the dining-room and parlor and airs both rooms. She also concerns herself with the bedrooms, if the wash is a serious matter, calling some other member of the family to help her turn the mattresses, or leav ing this neat precaution unconsidered for the one busy day. Tuesday Is the universal Ironing day, and in time of emergency the maid must often be assisted by her mis tress.. Therefore, clear starching and the moat rewarding methods of Iron ing nne garments should be part of every housekeeper's education. Just as Is the knowledge of how the maid should do the thing. Tuesday night the maid mixes her bread. Wednesday she bakes It, and perhaps makes a dessert or cake nicer than usual. Thursday morning, besides o'.ier duties, she gets every dish to be eaten at dinner ready before taking her afternoon off frequently comes back to cook the dinner. Friday she sweeps and perhaps washes windows, and if she lives In a godly household she gets ready on Saturday for Sun day. This system of routine may be var ied, of course, but the best work Is obtained by having a definite day for a definite thing, for all caprice In the manner of running the domestic end of the home only brings disorder. The rights of the mistress, though no more Important than those of the maid, are equally so. She Is entitled to a respectful man ner always, no matter what the ser vant may think. She must have "Tea, ma'am" and "No, ma'am." with the re ception of all orders. She Is Justified In holding Mary responsible for a too lavish breakage of fine crockery. She must exact a neat, well-groomed ap pearance of hands and head, as well as the white cap and apron and trim black dress for table and door attend ance. But since It Is antagonizing to the noblest of us to have our manners In cessantly under observation and pol ish, the mistress must go about the maid's education In the gentlest way. She must let her feel though reproofs are dally, and the harrowing thought comes sometimes that Mary will go as soon as her fine training Is over that the sltuatioln Is one for the good of the commonwealth. She must say. In ef fect If not in word, "Mary, you are one of us now, and we want you to love us as we do you." Even with the stroke of Justice Mary's feelings must be considered the bank account' of the poor heart which, after all. gives the best of its service to others. PRUDENCE STANDISH. When Men Go Shopping;. New York Globe. "For the first time In the five years that I have been sitting near this telephone.' said a drugstore cashier, "I heard one man telephone to another this afternoon and ask him to go shopping with him. Shopping! and men, too! Of course. FIGURE A. everybody knows that men unmarried ones, that Is have to go Into a store once In a while to buy socks and collars and a few other little things to wear; but I had always supposed that when driven to such extremities they sneaked in the back way and made their purchases as modestly as possible. Tet there was a man who actually telephoned in a public place for another man to meet him In another public place and go shopping In a third place still more public "I am afraid I can never feel the same toward men again." A Wedding Ring: for Chaperons. Cleveland Plain Dealer. "There was a scheme all right," re marked the Jewelry salesman after the woman customer had gone. "And the thing that made a hltmwith me was that she was so frank about it. She had a good-sized solitaire diamond that her father or uncle or somebody had given her. It seemed, and she had been wearing It on her right hand. She said she was going to wear it on her engagement finger and wanted a plain band wedding ring to go with It. She didn't try to four-flush about It, though didn't tell me she was married or going to be or anything like that. She said she was going West to visit a friend and she thought a wedding ring worn along with an engagement ring would be a protection to her In traveling. Floure C. FIGURE D. j ,................. ... . . Timely Recipes Creamed Cabbage The tender new green cabbages with pointed tops and delicate flavor are required for this dish. ; For four persons who are fond of this suc culent and nourishing vegetable two cab bases would be needed.-"Drop the well washed halves or quarters In boiling salted water and cook till tender. Then drain and cut them up in big flakes, and serve the dish piping hot with a boiled sauce made of a cupful of cream, thick ened with a teaspoonful of flour and sea soned with a little salt and black pepper. Cauliflower and Parmesan Cheese Cut the flowers from the stems so that they will lie flatly In the dish. Boil them until tender, but not enough to risk their breaking. Then arrange them In a flat baking dish on a bed of the boiled outside leaves so as to make them loojc like a whole cauliflower. Sprinkle thickly with grated Parmesan cheese, add a tablespoonful of butter, put over the mound In bits, sprinkle all with breadcrumbs and bake until well browned. rompey's Head A hard white cabbago FIGURE B. may be used for this. Remove outside leaves and turn down others to see that all dirt Is removed. , A wormy cabbage must be discarded as the vegetable must be parboiled whole. Put it in a large poi of briskly boiling water and cook for 20 minutes, taking care to take it out be fore the shape has alteied. Let ' chill a little and then carefully turn r 9 the outside leaves and cut a largv. hole down from the top, removing the heart. Fill the cavity with highly seasoned forcemeat chopped beef ham or chicken and securely pin the outer leaves over the filling with a meat skewer. Then dredge lightly with flour and meat drippings and bake In a slow oven, basting as with roast. This delicious mess Is wonderfully cooked by some of the old French negroes who are still to be found In South Carolina and Louisiana. . At a family dinner it is usually the only meat dish supplied. Carrots a la Francaise Take three bunches of tender new carrots, a little parsley, pepper and salt, a pinch of powdered white sugar, one lemon and two ounces of butter for this dish. Scrape and put the .carrots In cold water and boil till tender. Then dram them and put in a stewpan with the butter, the juice of the lemon and other seasonings. Cook 10 minutes, more In this way, and serve piping hot with, chops or roast lamb. THE Joys of -aeatlon have one un enviable result beauty, which gets an added boost In one way through Improved health, is damaged In others. The tan which looked well' enough at the seashore becomes a threat of positive ugliness when town Joys loom up. Freckles lose their rea son for being once their owner is away from leafy Arcadia; and hair spoiled by one thing or another demands res titution of charm. The Summer Girl writes me of every vacation blemish under the sun, and she invariably adejs, "For goodness sake, tell nie what to do. I am a per fect fright." A big batch of letters tell of tan alone, so l6t me begin with that. Much of the Injury caused by sun, wind and glare might be avoided If the owner of the sensitive skin onlx took the precaution to face the outdoor Jaunt with a. light eoating of cold cream well massaged Into the pores and coated in turn with a harmless powder, also well rubbed In. An ounce of prevention, where skin trou bles are concerned, is worth a pound of cure, and since tan In Its worst forms is very hard to remove, let me advise everybody to remember the makeup, and a red brown veil as well, next Summer. Even the scarifying effects of the winds soon to come may be much les sened by the cold cream and powder makeup, so Jot down the word in your memorandum book- for November. To remove successive layers of tan that coating, taken on little by little, and which looks at last as much like varnish as anything massage, steam ing and good creams are necessary, and even then the cure, in many cases, will be extremely slow. In fact, sun burned hands have been known to hold some part of the artificial brown ing for a good year, and there are skins which never entirely recover from a good cooking. Other skins will re spond in a very short time to system atic treatment. Begin by steaming the face every day, after that wiping it carefully, and while still warm applying the cold cream. Follow this with gentle mas sage, keeping the thumb steady against the face, and moving the four fingers of the two .hands in a circular way. Cucumber cream is thought to be spe cially efficacious in treatment of tan, as it is both slightly bleaching and healing In its effects. A cuoumber lotion Is also admirable and has the advantage of being more easily made at home. The following formula gives an excellent lotion for sunburn, but It is equally effective in cases of mere roughness and redness: Oil of sweet almonds.... 4 ounces Fresh cucumber Juice... 10 ounces Essence of cucumbers... 3 ounces White castile soap, powd. ounce Tincture of benzoin. . .2-3 drachm The cucumber Juice Is obtained by boiling cucumbers In very hot water. HOW TO OPEN UP HOUSES CLOSED DURING SUMMER THE housekeeper who knows her bus iness has a special way of opening up the house which has been closed all Summer. First, somebody Is sent through all the home to fling windows wide, the housekeeper herself following at the heels of the window-opener to place a saucer of disinfectant In each room. A tablespoonful of chloride of lime makes an Inexpensive and most powerful disinfectant, with scarcely a perceptible odor. Within an hour after it has been placed in a musty room, or under a sink, the atmosphere, lately so offensive in every corner of the room. Is sweetened. The use of a disinfectant of this purify ing description is also a healthful precau tion to take with a home which has been bottled up this long while, so to speak. The lively germ which sneaked in at the last moment on skirt tails and boots and In every waft of dust and which can thrive in Egyptian darkness or nothing at all has no fondness for the new, clean smell. It vanishes as the chaff before the wind, and takes a good deal of the harmful gas generated by water pipes with it. The next day the housekeeper airs all the bedding she has not already aired, for, of course, not a scrap of bed linen has been used without its purifying air Kn,v Thou h oroceeds to ctean room after room almost as carefully as she did in the Spring. After each has been swept, ehe goes over rugs and wool carpets cotton ones will not always stand the treatment with a rag dipped in warm soapsuds, wasning over eacn cwsnra with a rag dipped in ammonlated water vninv a Hrv as nossible. This per formance renews the colorings of Turkish and domestic carpets, and the atmosphere of a room is further purified by it. w4ninwe o washed next and fresh muslin curtains hung, while the parlor curtains of net or lace. If sufficiently clean, will be taken down and given a good brushing with a whisk broom, and The Wardrobe That Shows Wear SUMMER costumes are usually picilj well damaged by the end of August, and It Is neither wise nor always pos- to mibstltute a new gown for the old one at thia late period of the Sum ,. Ti,t a little touch here and there will do a deal toward a fresh, new look, and nowhere Is this touch more needed than at the stock and wrist portion of gowns. rt in a. mistake to economize on neca ruchings, for nothing gives so much a look of untidiness as a soiled neck or wristband. Little quillings used for the neck and sleeves of gowns are now going for a song 124 or 16 cent" sometimes buying the prettiest bands. A square ard of white or cream scrim, in a nne quality, and cut bias and made up into folds, nrovides a neat finish for gowns not too fine. Fasten the neck and leeve folds to a tape or riDDon, ior in this shape the fixing will wash. Lace sleeves and yoKes may aiso iw well cleaned at home with a little trou th, xoiieH lace at every point Die. " r - - - - with a thick paste made of magnesia and benzine. Leave this on a day and nignt and then brush off the hardened paste ,- with a stiff brush. If the in hhj ' , work Is thoroughly done, the lace will look like new after this process. A thick paste made of Fuller's earth and cold water, spread on In the same way, and left on for the same length of time, will also admirably clean pale cloth gowns and wraps. Hat flowers which have become faded or dingy, may be very easily renewed. Give the hat a good brushing and then carefully trim the petals of the flower with a sharp pair of scissors. After that dip a clean paint brush into the They should be sliced very thin, skin and all. and be allowed to cook slow ly until resolved to a soft mush. Then strain through a fine sieve, and then through a cloth. The essence is made by putting an ounce and a half of the Juice Into the same quantity of high proof alcohol. Put the essence and the soap in a large Jar with a cover and shake well; and when the soap Is dis solved put in the cucumber Juice and shake the bottle again thoroughly. Then pour the mixture Into a bowl and add the oil and benzoin, stirring all the while till the liquid Is creamy. Keep this lotion or milk In small, tightly corked bottles, set away in a dark closet, and always shake before using. As with tan, massage and steaming are valuable agents In banishing the Summer crop of freckles. The cucum ber and lettuce creams and lotions used for tan are likewise good, the cucum ber especially holding the arsenic need ed for bleaching. . But massage Is most necessary In both cases, as this promotes the activity of the skin and helps It to throw off the blemish. In cases of long standing freckles, even massage has been known to do won ders, but, of course, a good lotion must also be used. The formula below gives a freckle lo tion approved by a world-famed Journal: Lactic Acid 4 ounces Glycerine 2 ounces Rose water 1 ounce Apply several times daily with a soft cloth or bit of absorbent cotton. If the burning Is severe for any bleaching lo tion is smarting use the lotion less fre quently and apply the cucumber or let tuce cream immediately afterwards. For the scaly eruption which some times comes to a sensitive skin through a long sojourn at the seashore, borax and glycerine may be used after the bath with advantage. Take 7 ounces of plain dis tilled water and add 1 ounce of glycerine and y, drachm of borax. Apply the lotion night and morning and several times during the day. With this eruptive condition of the skin though It may be only a temporary defect the diet should be light, fresh fruits, milk and vegetables cooked with out meat, constituting almost the entire bill of fare. As to the hair which has been spoiled with salt water and injudicious basking In the sun while It Is still wet, I have only a word, and It Is quickly spoken. All that can be done is to begin at once with a course of healing shampoos, oil or vaseline scalp rubs, and massage. Eggs and castile soap, as I have said many times, supply the most rewarding of all Bhampoos. This treatment will correct the harshness at once and help in time to restore the color. But If the hair is very badly faded or Is In unsightly streaks, it may need to be touched up with a coloring fluid. If it comes to that, let the Summer girl write me for a for mula for the dye suited to her locks, and inclose, of course, the necessary self, addressed and stamped envelope for an swer KATHERINE MORTON. then Jeft to flutter on the clothesline for a time. Linoleum covered floors are washed with plain soap and water many a han'd some linoleum is spoiled by the too-lavish use of strong saops and the floor, which has been treated to a varnish stain, and which only one rug or two will cover. Is rubbed well with wax-oil and then pol ished with a dry cloth till It looks like a sheet of burnished brass or bronze. Wax oil is a preparation put up to or der at the paint supply store. The seller knows the right proportion for each In gredient, and when he hands you the big quart bottle, which he warrants to last a good year, he demands only 25 or so cents In exchange. Many another thing the good house keeper does before she considers her house set to order: but the way she sweetens up her kitchen utensils is a feat In Itself. She prepares the clothes boiler or some other huge vessel with hot water liberally doctored with soap powder and ammonia, and renewing the batlkr-i often as is necessary, she dumps into it load after load of pots and pans and lets them boll themselves clean. Many a housewife Is affronted when faced with the suggestion that the reason for her rice pudding or coffee Is not as good as usual is because the vessel was not In a state of perfect cleanliness. But the truth remains notwithstanding good "vittles" are more often than not ruined by uncleanly cooking vessels. To give them the sand scrubs needed requires time and hard labor, so why not always employ the boiling process for sweetening up the kitchen goods? At any rate, it is necessary after months of non-usase. for soap and water In themselves cannot remove all the dirt that clings to cooking utensils. And to employ them after they have been stand ing a long while is to Imperil not only the palate's finer taste, but also the heakh of all the family. MART DEAN. water color required and paint your posies with a few deft strokes not even ly, but here and there, as Nature would1 do. Muslin frocks which are only crumpled or wilted by seashore air. and not soiled, may be revived excellently with a little sponging with gum arabic and water and a good pressing afterwards. But only use a little of the gum a small bit to a bowl ful of water. Washed ribbons may not be the height of elegance, but they are far preferable to soiled ones. Castile soap Is the best to use. This is scraped In a powder and dissolved in water, which is added to the wash water. Have this only lukewarm, and sop the ribbons instead of scrubbing them, lifting them at last from the rinse water and drying them In the shade without ringing. If they are likely to fade much, soak them in cold water and salt before the wash. Press them still damp between cloths with the iron not too hot. TOP With Mrs. NETTIE HARRISON'S 4-DAY HAIR COLOR. It is the only entirely successful and satisfactory prepa ration for the purpose. Simple - Harm less - Certain. Sold for 20 years, and its friends are legion. It never fails. Price $1.00. At all druggists and at THE 5KIDMORB DBl fi CO., 131 Third St., Portland. aft km