Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Feb. 21, 1909)
Lingerie for the Easter Bride THERE were never so many novel ties as the Easter bride must -work Into her lingerie this season. The new style of toilet, which came in with the Fall and is lasting over with few changes through the Spring of has completely revolutionized the models for my lady's undergarments, for the hidden toilet must be constructed on new prin ciples to match the visible one. Think of the poor little German madchen. who begins to fill her linen trunk with her own handiwork as soon as her school days are over, when the ' .bridegroom is only an unknown quantity , where ever would she be now in the ! face of the new fashions? I have 1 ' ways thought the German maid's way ' a pretty custom, but quite out of the ' question for young Miss America, who j roust always be in the latest fasliion. Kow, more than ever, would she be in a 'quandary, even if the lingerie for the Spring trousseau were cut after models of only a few months ago. Long, slender lines -must be attained to j flow gracefu'Iy from the shoulder to the i feet, without the. dividation at the waist 'line, as the old darky put It, where we fiwere wont until a few snort months ago to start afresh with many skirts, ruf jflcs and flounces. To show how far we Niave wandered from the old ideal. It is :on!y necessary to take one glance at "the tsoubrette," a charming novelty in the 'shape of a combination corset cover and 'chemise, which fits into the figure with out a wrinkle or sign of unnecessary full Wiess. " It forms one delicately curved line .'from: the shoulder to the end of the 'Chemise skirt. ' The "soubrette" which caught my at tention in a shop window was made of nheer white cambric. Tiny pin tucks. lbout three Inches across the front, ran from the. low-neck corset cover to the 'bottom of the skirt, and straight bands of insertion and lace followed the lines of ftiie tucks. The garment was finished 'with a scant lace ruffle around the bot 'tom of the chemise and R narrower edge 'of the same design about the neck and : shoulders. A simple but unfailingly popular close fitting chemise is here shown in model A. It can be cut with a square or round neck, and made with or without sleeves. It Involves very little trouble in the making, so that it can be made after a dainty but simple design for every-day use. or it can be worked by more elab orate trimming into as exquisite a model as the most fastidious bride would re quire. This chemise can be given more char acter by adding to the embroidered de sign over the front a monogram Inclosed Jn a .Napoleon wreath of embroidery or a tinv circle of flowers. Or the chemise can be edged with lace or finished with a delicate embroidery or footing, through which the bride's favorite ribbon is run. The bride-elect must not fail to select one color for the ribbon she uses as dec oration for her underwear. White is, of course, the most approved color, but if the bride prefers pink or pale blue, she may use that, provided she uses the. same color with everything: else she falls to strike the harmonious note she should In Jier lingerie. This year, when the under ' garments are peculiarly elaborate and ei- quisite, rosettes of ribbons are not In frequently used instead of the more old fashioned bows. China silk ts in special favor for the new Spring underwear. The really up ' to-date Kaster bride will see to it that he has one complete set of underwear ! made of this silk to wear in the warmest : weather or with her daintiest silk gown. The shops are also offering along with ' the materials batiste, lawn and nain ' sook that we are In the habit of using for our undergarments, a lovely French dimity with invisible stripes and tiny dots : in it, which is as pretty a material for ! fine underwear as could well be manu factured. The three-piece undergarment made in one is so far the triumph of this sea son's combinations. Figure B shows the best model that has been designed to let one garment do the work of three, : Insure comfort and give the eagerlv sought-for effect of slenderness. The model really consists of corset cover and drawers only, but i so cut that if made with gathered or circular ruffles, it gives the additional appearance of a short skirt. If It is preferred to have the drawers fit more closely to the hip line, they can be made with yokes and can be dart-fitted or Joined to the yoke, so as to insure perfect smoothness. Their upper edge Is seamed to the corset cover. This is plainly the year of the great ness of gores. They are of utmost im portance in the new underwear, even as they are in the exterior toilet. Get your gores right and you have conquered the problem of the new fashions. The petticoat shown in Fig. C is gored until it fits smoothly over the upper portion of the figure. A flounce can be Inserted at the knee or only a dust ruf fle employed. The corset cover, which forms the upper part of this1 model, is a solution of several difficulties, and it would have been well for us had it been designed several seasons ago. It would have saved endless trouble with thin Summer blouses. It closes at the back, as most of the blouses do. so the unat tractive fashion of silk bows over the front of the cover need no longer be used to hide the buttons that would per sist in showing through the front of the open-work lace and embroidery blouses. This corset cover and skirt are made from batiste and trimmed with a fine white embroidery. But the same model was -used for an elaborate French lingerie creation for a bridal trousseau. About the low. round neck were three rows of Isce with half an Inch of material be tween each row. The lace insertion formed at the front of the corsage a heart, and on this was appllqued a me dallion of embroidery. In this case a con ventionalized American Beauty rose. The same idea was continued In the flounce of the ' skirt, except that there was a s-'rles of hearts and flowers about 12 Inches apart. Another beautiful adaptation of this model was hand embroidered with a con ventional border of pond lilies around the flounce of the skirt. Lace medallions, shaped like lily pads, were let Into the flounce at Intervals. The dust ruffle of fine lace was inserted under a tiny hand embroidered scallop. fan you think of a nicer present to give your best girl friend for a bridal gift than her wedding underwear, three jtccs in a box fixed up In French fash Ion and tied with great bows of ribbon? With models such as are offered now. these lovely lingerie creations can .he made at home, and surely the bride will prize alL the days of her life, till the lace Is a fine cobweb like her memories, such an offering from the friend who Is a dear associate of her youth. For the Easter trousseau kimonos no prettier materials can be found thaa those which the Japanese offer us in their flowered and embroidered silks, though It must be admitted that we have improved on their exact patterns and constructed new negligee patterns more suited to our needs. The little, negligee shown In Fig. D. is easily made, and since It involves little labor ought to be built in materials of several weights to make the wearer comfortable with the weather. Braid is a popular trim ming for ' the Spring kimono and wash fabrics suitable for building this gar ment come with a trimming of banding. A negligee made from the model shown was of pale blue viyella with splashes of corn color on the blue ground. It nag under each shoulder tuck would give a unique and pretty effect. The several gored skirt is not Bupplant ed in popularity for ordinary use: there fore women apparently think it is per fectly good taste to wear any old skirt with really charming negligees. But. of course, no woman of really good taste in dress would offend in this manner. House skirts for Spring and Summer wear should be made now from the thinner 1fi?F JMmi FIG. C CLOSE" FITTING CORSET COVER AND PETTICOAT. a border of pale blue braid made into a wall of Troy design. Another charming negligee was trimmed with a border of Japanese em broidery and real Japanese buttons, these coming all the way across the seas to an American girl from an admirer attached to our world encircling battle ship fleet. But real Japanese buttons are a luxury few of us can possess. It Is far simpler and almost as attractive to buy the Japanese embroidery and cover plain buttons with it. They are not to be used with button-holes, but as orna ments down the front of the kimono and on the sleeves as In Fig. D. The inser tion -of a tiny fold of the embroidery- Spring weight materials, so lliatwhen the bride puts on the new negligee, she will not spoil the effect by wearing a Winter skirt with It. The Easter bride has so many things to remember, so many things she needs in her trousseau, that It may be well to advise her not to forget to have made as soon as possible, at least two pretty house skirts. She can not afford to spoil her pretty gowns by ever wearing the skirts of them in the house, so two light weight skirts of voile or panama in seven gores will be about as useful as any thing she can provide herself with. They can be white. If she desires to preserve her bridal appearance MARY DEAN. Obtain Beautiful Carriage THERE Is no beauty like the beauty of poise, no single mark of distinc tion in face or figure that equals the grace of a well-carried body. Just now and then we catch a glimpse, mow the throngs of men and women who are dally passing us. of a figure so beautifully upright and graceful that we Fig. B Three Garments In One. remember It long after it is moved beyond our vision. I am not one of those who believe that a splendidly poised body should be a rare sight. It ought to be something we see always, so that we are distressed by an exception to the rule. But it is a rare sight, indeed, and simply because most of us fail to make the beet of our bodies, just as we fail to make the best of our selves, by forgetting, neglecting, the very things most important to our welfare Even the very children, whose bodies ought to be the poetry of motion, youth, and grace, begin In "their school days to grow careless, to hunch their shoulders, drop their heads and walk as though there was no special joy or freedom or opportunity in the exercise that we all take for granted, unless illness comes along and we are deprived of it. For the ordinary woman to obtain a beautiful carriage is not half so hard a task as many women suppose, just be cause so few. of them possess this truly wonderful beautllier. First of all. beau tiful carriage expends on two things, not on one the poise of the body and the poise of the mind. The mental attitude has a great deal more to do with the bearing of the body than most of us sup pose. Note how the body expresses every emotion we feel, fear, anger, happiness, etc.; so it is natural that our whole atti tude toward life should affect the way we can carry ourselves. The first thing any -oman who longs to obtain a graceful irriage of the body should do is to make sure that her mental outlook on life in eeneral is a hopeful one. that she believes in herself and' that opportunity to prove the reasonableness of this be lief comes at some time or in some fash ion to everv one of us; herself included. So I would say, as the first rule to ob serve in vour attempt to obtain beautiful poise, hoid up your head, lift the chin a little, so that your friends can say to you, "'You are looking up." It is probably true, as charged, that many a woman does not really know what beautiful carriage Is. But she that has eyes to see need not long remain in ignorance on this point. If she lives in a city that boasts of an art museum, let her study therein the originals, or the re plicas, of old Greek statues, whose sub jects are standing and leaning, walking and running always with perfect grace and1 freedom. The Greeks of old not only understood what beautiful carriage Is; they also had joy In theif bodies healthy, natural joy and they gave their bodies the practice in physical exercises that was required to keep them in supple and responsive condition. Here are some simple bodily exercises that will aid any woman to secure a proper balance and control of her body: Stand' firmly on both legs. Change weight, making right leg the strong one. Incline head to right, body to left. You are now in harmonic balance. By In clining the body to the right you become awkward, and If this is continued in you will probably fall: so you may learn by this simple exercise the value of balance and begin to learn to stafid correctly. When the weight does not rest alike on the two feet, you must always bar in mind the fact that the head sympathizes with the strong leg, and that it should lean ever so slightly to the side of the leg that bears the weight, and' so show Nature's line of- beauty. Another exercise, which' will help you to be graceful, is equally simple. Put the body's weight on both feet, heels togeth er, toes apart. At the waistline rotate the body to the right as you simultane ously turn the head to the left. Be sure that this rotation is made by the waist, and not by the thighs. Now turn about, rotating the body to the left and the head to the ri?:ht. Practice until you secure real flexibility at the walst-line, and you will find you have secured the most im portant aid to grace, which so largely depends on control of the muscles at the waist. Then, when you have learned' to stand well and to have real use of your body, learn to walk all over again learn walk ing as an art. Do not walk as the most of us do, with our legs stuck stiffly out, the body dragging and the arms swing ing with no life or ease. . . There are almost as many ways to Car ey the body as there are people in this world, and yet there are only a few sim ple rules for the perfect walk. The line of the body is of great importance: so also Is the proper hip "movement. There is no better practice to observe in secur ing the perfect walk tryin the often rec ommended one. Place a book or bundle on your head and' see if you can walk with It poised there. Then draw a line along the floor, and see how straight your average walk is. Each step should be a foot apart, measured by your own foot; and in making these practice steps lift the thigh forward, letting lower leg and foot hang loosely. . The unbending at the knee plants the foot immediately as weight bears on it. The body and head should' swayin in sympathy with every motion of the legs. KATHERINH3 MORTON. Dinner Menus for Week BT LIUAX TINGI-E. Tuesday. Corn Soup. Spanish Stew with Ripe OUvm. Boiled Potatoes. Spinach and Lentil Salad. Baked Apples. Sweet Oatmeal Crisps. Coffee. Wednesday. Cream of Spinach Soup. BraWed Heart. Stuffed. Brown Sauce-. Mashed Potato. . Turnip Cubes. Celery and Orange Salad. Little Date Puddings. Coffee. Thursday. Parsnlj Chowder. Curried Lima Bean. Boiled Rice. Apple Celery and Ptmiento Salad. Cucoanut Pudding. Coffee. rridy. Broiled Smelt. Sauce YinaiRrette. potato Balls. Italian ;uochi au Oratin. Mixed Vegetable Salad. Raistn Pie. Coffee, httturduy. Fish Soup Croat on Broiled Shoulder Chops. Mint Oapea. potato Omelet. Chicory Salad. Orange Marmalade Pudding. Coffee. Sunday. Oxtail Soup Firelesa Cooker Style. ChU'kn In Casserole. Hot Biscuits. Baked Squasr. sccimpeu I'maioerv Smelt Salad (Jellied!. Wafers. Chocolate and Almond Cream Pudding O'oid.) Coffee. Monday. Cream of Celery Soup. Brown Oxtail Fricassee, with Mixed Vegetables. Picjuante Sauce. Baked Potatoes. Cabbage Salad. Apricot Loaf (Dried or Canned). -Coffee. Cultivating Domestic Politeness WE HAVE all been compelled to lis ten to the oft-repeated accusation that we have no manners nowa days, either at home or abroad, that, in fact, we live in a mannerless age. This is a depressing sentiment, after all that has been written and said about good man ners, but I feel fairly sure that each gen eration has said almost exactly the same of the character of that frankness, and their . way of expressing it, else more harm will be wrought than good. Especially in a large family contain ing several grown people is this cour tesy necessary. So many individuali ties have grown up in the same atmo sphere that, unless good manners have been the rule of their days spant to gether, friction and endless discord are FIG. A A SIMPLE, BUT POPULAR CHEMISE. Fig. D An Easily Made Kimono. thing about itself. The "gentleman of the old school" la always moving backward, and some of us are prone to look upon him as the only real gentleman. Our mothets and fathers tell us that they would never have dreamed of doing or saying the rude things we do, but here in an old book published in ISolt. similar accusations are made against them. 1 be lieve that we have not changed so much for the worse in I'uinners as many well being persons seem to think we have, though it true that we have given up much of the ceremony and the formality that used to rule the well-bred world. Good manners, after all. are the expres sion of good hearts, and good hearts are found in every genelation. We are all Just as anxious and just as interested to have real courtesy a part ui uui lives as we ever were, and especially would we like to feel sure that we were going always to keep an ideal of good manners in our family life. In "The American Gentleman's Guide to Polite Manners," previously alluded to, there are some quaint rules of etiquette to apply in the family quaint only in their form of expression, for the substance is as good today as it ever was. "In the inner temple of your home, says the Guide, "render your family the reverence due. toward your father use a deferential manner mingled with respect. Let the familiarity of domestic intercourse never degenerate into a rude disregard of the restraints of refinement, nor an un feeling disregard of the feelings of oth ers. Cultivate domestic politeness." ".Cultivate domestic politeness" this Is a motto that every one of us shouldCear religiously in mind. Of course it is amusing to young people to read in tho 'Guide" how a boy addressed his mother: "Mother, you are the most beautiful and irre sistible of your beautiful and irresist ible sex." We do not use such high flown language now, but the fact re mains that a boy's manner towards his mother Is one of the most important parts of his education. And really, a little bit more formality on the part of the modern boy would not come amiss, in the least. Do boys remember always to offer the best chair to their mother as she comes into the room; to rise and open the door when she goes out, many times with her hands laden with sewing, bric-a-brac or books? All a boy ever needs to learn of the right attitude to observe toward women he can learn through the cour tesies that he should be required to pav to his mothers and sisters. What is the ideal of true family courtesy? It 'is the test of whatever real courtesy w'e have in us, because the family sees us at all times and un der all conditions, even when we are tired and hurried and disappointed, three states of mind and body chat are apt to have a disastrous effect on the good manners that we plume ourselves on thinking we have at all other times. There is only one rule for domestic politeness, and, of course. It is "put yourself in his place.' I firmly believe that among the various members of the average family a certain frankness that Is not practiced on the outside should obtain, so that they may learn important things from one another. But the family should be most careful apt to develop. ' It is hard to conceive of tude children in a family where grown people are unfailingly polite to one another. How many of us have seen a child's rudeness so exact an imi tation of grown-up rudeness In words, look, manner, everything? It , would be ludicrous, were It not a reproach. What are the rules of courtesy to be observed in the family? Many of us, who love our families very dearly, can not but begin to wonder just hoWfar we have offended in not observing the proper rules, and where we should be gin to improve. But believe me. the rules are very simple, as all really important things are. And first of all, we must never let the accusation prove true that we have not the' proper re spect for older members of the family that we live too much for the young. Let the members of a family that has an older person In its midst make a resolution it they have not already done so that they will make jrrand mother, or grandfather, or aged auntie, feel that he or she is the central figure of the household and of first consid eration. The old Hebrew maxim. "Thou shalt rise up before the hoary head, and honor tho face of tho old man," should be the guide of every one of us in our dealings with tho aged members of the family, and that fam ily which observes to the full tho in junctions of this ancient saying will have established in its midst a beauti ful sentiment that will make It marked among the families of its acquaint ance. The woman who always lets her children disregard the attentions that are due her pays for it. I firmly be lieve, not only in the lack of good man ners which her children show through life toward older people, but she also oftentimes receives from her sons and daughters less affection than the mother who rears her brood in the fear of good manners. In the old fashioned phrasing, ren der reverence where reverence is due; and nowhere else is true courtesy, true politeness, of so great importance as in the inner circle of the family. Culti vate domestic politeness, and there wfll be no need of trying to instil polite ness in any member of the family for use in the outside world. You can al ways count on its being ready to hand, if it has been practiced daily at home. PRUDENCE STANDISH. Buttons Work of Art THE woman who does not own her fair share of jeweled ornaments this season can be almost as suc cessfully decorated If she possessetr a number of the exquisite, fancy buttons that are everywhere on view. Buttons, that we regarded a few seasons ago, when our ideas were strictly tailor made, as mere useful articles, often to be tucked away out of sight, are now real art treasures. The button has come into Its own again. Our grandmothers knew the beauty of trimming the best gowns with fancy buttons, sometimes of col ored glass, cut like jewels. I still have some beautiful bright green buttons cut from an old green barege. If the contents of the trunk in the attic Is not quite exhausted, you may be able to find in it buttons on the gowns of half a century or more ago, that will vie with the new ones in decorative qualitj". It would be pleasing to think that the exquisite designs In fancy buttons that are so in evidence in tho shops are all original, but a glance into any old fashion book or museum, where miniature treasures are displayed, will prove that the French ladies of yester year have given us as many sugges tions for our latest buttons as they have models for our latest gowns. But the manufacturers have devel oped a number of original ideas, as well as exquisite repetitions of the old buttons. The miniature buttons show heads of famous beauties on blue enam eled backgrounds set In rims of cut steel. A more conventional, but equally handsome, button is mounted on a metal -which looks like platinum, in a lattice work design, with a rhinestona set at each intersection of the metal. A less elegant button, but one that would serve equally well as a trimming for any of the catawba shades of the season. Is of red enamel, set In a circle of filagree gold, with a fine gold thread crossing the surface of the enamel. Mother-of-pearl makes a beautiful center for many ot the rarest buttons. Such a button, an inch and a half across, was framed In a border of cut steel, and a smoked pearl button was inclosed in a setting of old gold. Small er pearl buttons, set In circles of rhlne stone, gave almost the effect of Jew eled breastpins. The large brass button is everywhere evidence. Worn on a military coat, it would give every appearance of high rank, but seen atclose range it has no national stamp, but is hammered into an intricate variety of curiq.us de signs. As a last word in buttons, the home dressmaker can still use her talent. Buttons covered with Oriental embroid eries which give the desired effects can be further beautified by working over the embroidered covering a fine silver or gold thread. Read this to the end. The obiect of this advertisement is to make you THINK about your hair. Is it thin? Is it lifeless! Does it comb away easily 1 Are there little white flakes in your hair! Does your scalp itch ? Is it too dry? If you say "yes" to any of these questions, it is time to PEE VENT future hair and scalp trouble by using ED. PINAUD'S HAIR TONIC (Eau da Quinin) Use it faithfully for one month you will see your hair improve wonderfully. It will gradually become heavier and more beau tiful. DANDRUFF WILL DISAPPEAR dandruff, you know, is the hair's worst enemy. Any good dealer will sell you a 50c. or $1.00 bottle of ED. PINAUD'S famous Hair Tonic this will be ample to test this great French preparation thoroughly. After you use one bottle, we are content to leave the matter to your judgment. PARFHERIE Ef). P1NAUD, NEW YORK
