Lingerie for the Easter Bride
THERE were never so many novel
ties as the Easter bride must -work
Into her lingerie this season. The
new style of toilet, which came in with
the Fall and is lasting over with few
changes through the Spring of has
completely revolutionized the models for
my lady's undergarments, for the hidden
toilet must be constructed on new prin
ciples to match the visible one.
Think of the poor little German
madchen. who begins to fill her linen
trunk with her own handiwork as soon
as her school days are over, when the
' .bridegroom is only an unknown quantity
, where ever would she be now in the
! face of the new fashions? I have 1
' ways thought the German maid's way
' a pretty custom, but quite out of the
' question for young Miss America, who
j roust always be in the latest fasliion.
Kow, more than ever, would she be in a
'quandary, even if the lingerie for the
Spring trousseau were cut after models
of only a few months ago.
Long, slender lines -must be attained to
j flow gracefu'Iy from the shoulder to the
i feet, without the. dividation at the waist
'line, as the old darky put It, where we
fiwere wont until a few snort months ago
to start afresh with many skirts, ruf
jflcs and flounces. To show how far we
Niave wandered from the old ideal. It is
:on!y necessary to take one glance at "the
tsoubrette," a charming novelty in the
'shape of a combination corset cover and
'chemise, which fits into the figure with
out a wrinkle or sign of unnecessary full
Wiess. " It forms one delicately curved line
.'from: the shoulder to the end of the
'Chemise skirt.
' The "soubrette" which caught my at
tention in a shop window was made of
nheer white cambric. Tiny pin tucks.
lbout three Inches across the front, ran
from the. low-neck corset cover to the
'bottom of the skirt, and straight bands
of insertion and lace followed the lines of
ftiie tucks. The garment was finished
'with a scant lace ruffle around the bot
'tom of the chemise and R narrower edge
'of the same design about the neck and
: shoulders.
A simple but unfailingly popular close
fitting chemise is here shown in model A.
It can be cut with a square or round
neck, and made with or without sleeves.
It Involves very little trouble in the
making, so that it can be made after a
dainty but simple design for every-day
use. or it can be worked by more elab
orate trimming into as exquisite a model
as the most fastidious bride would re
quire. This chemise can be given more char
acter by adding to the embroidered de
sign over the front a monogram Inclosed
Jn a .Napoleon wreath of embroidery or
a tinv circle of flowers. Or the chemise
can be edged with lace or finished with a
delicate embroidery or footing, through
which the bride's favorite ribbon is run.
The bride-elect must not fail to select
one color for the ribbon she uses as dec
oration for her underwear. White is, of
course, the most approved color, but if
the bride prefers pink or pale blue, she
may use that, provided she uses the. same
color with everything: else she falls to
strike the harmonious note she should In
Jier lingerie. This year, when the under
' garments are peculiarly elaborate and ei-
quisite, rosettes of ribbons are not In
frequently used instead of the more old
fashioned bows.
China silk ts in special favor for the
new Spring underwear. The really up
' to-date Kaster bride will see to it that
he has one complete set of underwear
! made of this silk to wear in the warmest
: weather or with her daintiest silk gown.
The shops are also offering along with
' the materials batiste, lawn and nain
' sook that we are In the habit of using
for our undergarments, a lovely French
dimity with invisible stripes and tiny dots
: in it, which is as pretty a material for
! fine underwear as could well be manu
factured. The three-piece undergarment made in
one is so far the triumph of this sea
son's combinations. Figure B shows the
best model that has been designed to
let one garment do the work of three,
: Insure comfort and give the eagerlv
sought-for effect of slenderness. The
model really consists of corset cover and
drawers only, but i so cut that if made
with gathered or circular ruffles, it gives
the additional appearance of a short
skirt. If It is preferred to have the
drawers fit more closely to the hip line,
they can be made with yokes and can
be dart-fitted or Joined to the yoke, so
as to insure perfect smoothness. Their
upper edge Is seamed to the corset cover.
This is plainly the year of the great
ness of gores. They are of utmost im
portance in the new underwear, even as
they are in the exterior toilet. Get your
gores right and you have conquered the
problem of the new fashions.
The petticoat shown in Fig. C is gored
until it fits smoothly over the upper
portion of the figure. A flounce can be
Inserted at the knee or only a dust ruf
fle employed. The corset cover, which
forms the upper part of this1 model, is
a solution of several difficulties, and it
would have been well for us had it been
designed several seasons ago. It would
have saved endless trouble with thin
Summer blouses. It closes at the back,
as most of the blouses do. so the unat
tractive fashion of silk bows over the
front of the cover need no longer be
used to hide the buttons that would per
sist in showing through the front of the
open-work lace and embroidery blouses.
This corset cover and skirt are made
from batiste and trimmed with a fine
white embroidery. But the same model
was -used for an elaborate French lingerie
creation for a bridal trousseau. About
the low. round neck were three rows of
Isce with half an Inch of material be
tween each row. The lace insertion
formed at the front of the corsage a
heart, and on this was appllqued a me
dallion of embroidery. In this case a con
ventionalized American Beauty rose. The
same idea was continued In the flounce
of the ' skirt, except that there was a
s-'rles of hearts and flowers about 12
Inches apart.
Another beautiful adaptation of this
model was hand embroidered with a con
ventional border of pond lilies around
the flounce of the skirt. Lace medallions,
shaped like lily pads, were let Into the
flounce at Intervals. The dust ruffle of
fine lace was inserted under a tiny hand
embroidered scallop.
fan you think of a nicer present to
give your best girl friend for a bridal
gift than her wedding underwear, three
jtccs in a box fixed up In French fash
Ion and tied with great bows of ribbon?
With models such as are offered now.
these lovely lingerie creations can .he
made at home, and surely the bride will
prize alL the days of her life, till the lace
Is a fine cobweb like her memories, such
an offering from the friend who Is a dear
associate of her youth.
For the Easter trousseau kimonos no
prettier materials can be found thaa
those which the Japanese offer us in
their flowered and embroidered silks,
though It must be admitted that we have
improved on their exact patterns and
constructed new negligee patterns more
suited to our needs. The little, negligee
shown In Fig. D. is easily made, and
since It involves little labor ought to
be built in materials of several weights
to make the wearer comfortable with
the weather. Braid is a popular trim
ming for ' the Spring kimono and wash
fabrics suitable for building this gar
ment come with a trimming of banding.
A negligee made from the model shown
was of pale blue viyella with splashes
of corn color on the blue ground. It nag
under each shoulder tuck would give a
unique and pretty effect.
The several gored skirt is not Bupplant
ed in popularity for ordinary use: there
fore women apparently think it is per
fectly good taste to wear any old skirt
with really charming negligees. But. of
course, no woman of really good taste in
dress would offend in this manner. House
skirts for Spring and Summer wear
should be made now from the thinner
1fi?F
JMmi
FIG. C CLOSE" FITTING CORSET COVER AND PETTICOAT.
a border of pale blue braid made into a
wall of Troy design.
Another charming negligee was
trimmed with a border of Japanese em
broidery and real Japanese buttons,
these coming all the way across the seas
to an American girl from an admirer
attached to our world encircling battle
ship fleet. But real Japanese buttons are
a luxury few of us can possess. It Is
far simpler and almost as attractive to
buy the Japanese embroidery and cover
plain buttons with it. They are not to
be used with button-holes, but as orna
ments down the front of the kimono and
on the sleeves as In Fig. D. The inser
tion -of a tiny fold of the embroidery-
Spring weight materials, so lliatwhen
the bride puts on the new negligee, she
will not spoil the effect by wearing a
Winter skirt with It.
The Easter bride has so many things
to remember, so many things she needs
in her trousseau, that It may be well to
advise her not to forget to have made
as soon as possible, at least two pretty
house skirts. She can not afford to spoil
her pretty gowns by ever wearing the
skirts of them in the house, so two light
weight skirts of voile or panama in seven
gores will be about as useful as any
thing she can provide herself with. They
can be white. If she desires to preserve
her bridal appearance MARY DEAN.
Obtain Beautiful Carriage
THERE Is no beauty like the beauty
of poise, no single mark of distinc
tion in face or figure that equals
the grace of a well-carried body.
Just now and then we catch a glimpse,
mow the throngs of men and women
who are dally passing us. of a figure so
beautifully upright and graceful that we
Fig. B Three Garments In One.
remember It long after it is moved beyond
our vision.
I am not one of those who believe that
a splendidly poised body should be a rare
sight. It ought to be something we see
always, so that we are distressed by an
exception to the rule. But it is a rare
sight, indeed, and simply because most
of us fail to make the beet of our bodies,
just as we fail to make the best of our
selves, by forgetting, neglecting, the very
things most important to our welfare
Even the very children, whose bodies
ought to be the poetry of motion, youth,
and grace, begin In "their school days to
grow careless, to hunch their shoulders,
drop their heads and walk as though
there was no special joy or freedom or
opportunity in the exercise that we all
take for granted, unless illness comes
along and we are deprived of it.
For the ordinary woman to obtain a
beautiful carriage is not half so hard a
task as many women suppose, just be
cause so few. of them possess this truly
wonderful beautllier. First of all. beau
tiful carriage expends on two things, not
on one the poise of the body and the
poise of the mind. The mental attitude
has a great deal more to do with the
bearing of the body than most of us sup
pose. Note how the body expresses every
emotion we feel, fear, anger, happiness,
etc.; so it is natural that our whole atti
tude toward life should affect the way we
can carry ourselves. The first thing any
-oman who longs to obtain a graceful
irriage of the body should do is to
make sure that her mental outlook on
life in eeneral is a hopeful one. that she
believes in herself and' that opportunity
to prove the reasonableness of this be
lief comes at some time or in some fash
ion to everv one of us; herself included.
So I would say, as the first rule to ob
serve in vour attempt to obtain beautiful
poise, hoid up your head, lift the chin a
little, so that your friends can say to
you, "'You are looking up."
It is probably true, as charged, that
many a woman does not really know
what beautiful carriage Is. But she that
has eyes to see need not long remain in
ignorance on this point. If she lives in
a city that boasts of an art museum, let
her study therein the originals, or the re
plicas, of old Greek statues, whose sub
jects are standing and leaning, walking
and running always with perfect grace
and1 freedom. The Greeks of old not only
understood what beautiful carriage Is;
they also had joy In theif bodies healthy,
natural joy and they gave their bodies
the practice in physical exercises that
was required to keep them in supple and
responsive condition.
Here are some simple bodily exercises
that will aid any woman to secure a
proper balance and control of her body:
Stand' firmly on both legs. Change
weight, making right leg the strong one.
Incline head to right, body to left. You
are now in harmonic balance. By In
clining the body to the right you become
awkward, and If this is continued in you
will probably fall: so you may learn by
this simple exercise the value of balance
and begin to learn to stafid correctly.
When the weight does not rest alike on
the two feet, you must always bar in
mind the fact that the head sympathizes
with the strong leg, and that it should
lean ever so slightly to the side of the
leg that bears the weight, and' so show
Nature's line of- beauty.
Another exercise, which' will help you
to be graceful, is equally simple. Put the
body's weight on both feet, heels togeth
er, toes apart. At the waistline rotate
the body to the right as you simultane
ously turn the head to the left. Be sure
that this rotation is made by the waist,
and not by the thighs. Now turn about,
rotating the body to the left and the head
to the ri?:ht. Practice until you secure
real flexibility at the walst-line, and you
will find you have secured the most im
portant aid to grace, which so largely
depends on control of the muscles at the
waist.
Then, when you have learned' to stand
well and to have real use of your body,
learn to walk all over again learn walk
ing as an art. Do not walk as the most
of us do, with our legs stuck stiffly out,
the body dragging and the arms swing
ing with no life or ease. . .
There are almost as many ways to Car
ey the body as there are people in this
world, and yet there are only a few sim
ple rules for the perfect walk. The line
of the body is of great importance: so
also Is the proper hip "movement. There
is no better practice to observe in secur
ing the perfect walk tryin the often rec
ommended one. Place a book or bundle
on your head and' see if you can walk
with It poised there. Then draw a line
along the floor, and see how straight
your average walk is. Each step should
be a foot apart, measured by your own
foot; and in making these practice steps
lift the thigh forward, letting lower leg
and foot hang loosely. . The unbending
at the knee plants the foot immediately
as weight bears on it. The body and
head should' swayin in sympathy with
every motion of the legs.
KATHERINH3 MORTON.
Dinner Menus
for Week
BT LIUAX TINGI-E.
Tuesday.
Corn Soup.
Spanish Stew with Ripe OUvm.
Boiled Potatoes. Spinach and Lentil Salad.
Baked Apples. Sweet Oatmeal Crisps.
Coffee.
Wednesday.
Cream of Spinach Soup.
BraWed Heart. Stuffed. Brown Sauce-.
Mashed Potato. . Turnip Cubes.
Celery and Orange Salad.
Little Date Puddings.
Coffee.
Thursday.
Parsnlj Chowder.
Curried Lima Bean. Boiled Rice.
Apple Celery and Ptmiento Salad.
Cucoanut Pudding.
Coffee.
rridy.
Broiled Smelt. Sauce YinaiRrette.
potato Balls.
Italian ;uochi au Oratin.
Mixed Vegetable Salad.
Raistn Pie. Coffee,
httturduy.
Fish Soup Croat on
Broiled Shoulder Chops. Mint Oapea.
potato Omelet. Chicory Salad.
Orange Marmalade Pudding.
Coffee.
Sunday.
Oxtail Soup Firelesa Cooker Style.
ChU'kn In Casserole. Hot Biscuits.
Baked Squasr. sccimpeu I'maioerv
Smelt Salad (Jellied!. Wafers.
Chocolate and Almond Cream Pudding
O'oid.)
Coffee.
Monday.
Cream of Celery Soup.
Brown Oxtail Fricassee, with Mixed
Vegetables.
Picjuante Sauce. Baked Potatoes.
Cabbage Salad.
Apricot Loaf (Dried or Canned). -Coffee.
Cultivating Domestic Politeness
WE HAVE all been compelled to lis
ten to the oft-repeated accusation
that we have no manners nowa
days, either at home or abroad, that, in
fact, we live in a mannerless age. This is
a depressing sentiment, after all that has
been written and said about good man
ners, but I feel fairly sure that each gen
eration has said almost exactly the same
of the character of that frankness, and
their . way of expressing it, else more
harm will be wrought than good.
Especially in a large family contain
ing several grown people is this cour
tesy necessary. So many individuali
ties have grown up in the same atmo
sphere that, unless good manners have
been the rule of their days spant to
gether, friction and endless discord are
FIG. A A SIMPLE, BUT POPULAR CHEMISE.
Fig. D An Easily Made Kimono.
thing about itself. The "gentleman of the
old school" la always moving backward,
and some of us are prone to look upon
him as the only real gentleman.
Our mothets and fathers tell us that
they would never have dreamed of doing
or saying the rude things we do, but here
in an old book published in ISolt. similar
accusations are made against them. 1 be
lieve that we have not changed so much
for the worse in I'uinners as many well
being persons seem to think we have,
though it true that we have given up
much of the ceremony and the formality
that used to rule the well-bred world.
Good manners, after all. are the expres
sion of good hearts, and good hearts are
found in every genelation. We are all
Just as anxious and just as interested to
have real courtesy a part ui uui
lives as we ever were, and especially
would we like to feel sure that we were
going always to keep an ideal of good
manners in our family life.
In "The American Gentleman's Guide to
Polite Manners," previously alluded to,
there are some quaint rules of etiquette to
apply in the family quaint only in their
form of expression, for the substance is
as good today as it ever was.
"In the inner temple of your home,
says the Guide, "render your family the
reverence due. toward your father use a
deferential manner mingled with respect.
Let the familiarity of domestic intercourse
never degenerate into a rude disregard of
the restraints of refinement, nor an un
feeling disregard of the feelings of oth
ers. Cultivate domestic politeness."
".Cultivate domestic politeness" this Is
a motto that every one of us shouldCear
religiously in mind.
Of course it is amusing to young
people to read in tho 'Guide" how a
boy addressed his mother: "Mother,
you are the most beautiful and irre
sistible of your beautiful and irresist
ible sex." We do not use such high
flown language now, but the fact re
mains that a boy's manner towards his
mother Is one of the most important
parts of his education. And really, a
little bit more formality on the part
of the modern boy would not come
amiss, in the least. Do boys remember
always to offer the best chair to their
mother as she comes into the room;
to rise and open the door when she
goes out, many times with her hands
laden with sewing, bric-a-brac or
books? All a boy ever needs to learn
of the right attitude to observe toward
women he can learn through the cour
tesies that he should be required to
pav to his mothers and sisters.
What is the ideal of true family
courtesy? It 'is the test of whatever
real courtesy w'e have in us, because
the family sees us at all times and un
der all conditions, even when we are
tired and hurried and disappointed,
three states of mind and body chat are
apt to have a disastrous effect on the
good manners that we plume ourselves
on thinking we have at all other times.
There is only one rule for domestic
politeness, and, of course. It is "put
yourself in his place.' I firmly believe
that among the various members of the
average family a certain frankness
that Is not practiced on the outside
should obtain, so that they may learn
important things from one another.
But the family should be most careful
apt to develop. ' It is hard to conceive
of tude children in a family where
grown people are unfailingly polite
to one another. How many of us have
seen a child's rudeness so exact an imi
tation of grown-up rudeness In words,
look, manner, everything? It , would
be ludicrous, were It not a reproach.
What are the rules of courtesy to be
observed in the family? Many of us,
who love our families very dearly, can
not but begin to wonder just hoWfar
we have offended in not observing the
proper rules, and where we should be
gin to improve. But believe me. the
rules are very simple, as all really
important things are. And first of all,
we must never let the accusation prove
true that we have not the' proper re
spect for older members of the family
that we live too much for the young.
Let the members of a family that has
an older person In its midst make a
resolution it they have not already
done so that they will make jrrand
mother, or grandfather, or aged auntie,
feel that he or she is the central figure
of the household and of first consid
eration. The old Hebrew maxim.
"Thou shalt rise up before the hoary
head, and honor tho face of tho old
man," should be the guide of every one
of us in our dealings with tho aged
members of the family, and that fam
ily which observes to the full tho in
junctions of this ancient saying will
have established in its midst a beauti
ful sentiment that will make It marked
among the families of its acquaint
ance. The woman who always lets her
children disregard the attentions that
are due her pays for it. I firmly be
lieve, not only in the lack of good man
ners which her children show through
life toward older people, but she also
oftentimes receives from her sons and
daughters less affection than the
mother who rears her brood in the
fear of good manners.
In the old fashioned phrasing, ren
der reverence where reverence is due;
and nowhere else is true courtesy, true
politeness, of so great importance as
in the inner circle of the family. Culti
vate domestic politeness, and there wfll
be no need of trying to instil polite
ness in any member of the family for
use in the outside world. You can al
ways count on its being ready to hand,
if it has been practiced daily at home.
PRUDENCE STANDISH.
Buttons Work
of Art
THE woman who does not own her
fair share of jeweled ornaments
this season can be almost as suc
cessfully decorated If she possessetr a
number of the exquisite, fancy buttons
that are everywhere on view. Buttons,
that we regarded a few seasons ago,
when our ideas were strictly tailor
made, as mere useful articles, often to
be tucked away out of sight, are now
real art treasures.
The button has come into Its own
again. Our grandmothers knew the
beauty of trimming the best gowns
with fancy buttons, sometimes of col
ored glass, cut like jewels. I still have
some beautiful bright green buttons
cut from an old green barege. If the
contents of the trunk in the attic Is
not quite exhausted, you may be able
to find in it buttons on the gowns of
half a century or more ago, that will
vie with the new ones in decorative
qualitj".
It would be pleasing to think that
the exquisite designs In fancy buttons
that are so in evidence in tho shops
are all original, but a glance into any
old fashion book or museum, where
miniature treasures are displayed, will
prove that the French ladies of yester
year have given us as many sugges
tions for our latest buttons as they
have models for our latest gowns.
But the manufacturers have devel
oped a number of original ideas, as
well as exquisite repetitions of the old
buttons. The miniature buttons show
heads of famous beauties on blue enam
eled backgrounds set In rims of cut
steel.
A more conventional, but equally
handsome, button is mounted on a
metal -which looks like platinum, in a
lattice work design, with a rhinestona
set at each intersection of the metal.
A less elegant button, but one that
would serve equally well as a trimming
for any of the catawba shades of the
season. Is of red enamel, set In a circle
of filagree gold, with a fine gold thread
crossing the surface of the enamel.
Mother-of-pearl makes a beautiful
center for many ot the rarest buttons.
Such a button, an inch and a half
across, was framed In a border of cut
steel, and a smoked pearl button was
inclosed in a setting of old gold. Small
er pearl buttons, set In circles of rhlne
stone, gave almost the effect of Jew
eled breastpins.
The large brass button is everywhere
evidence. Worn on a military coat,
it would give every appearance of high
rank, but seen atclose range it has
no national stamp, but is hammered
into an intricate variety of curiq.us de
signs. As a last word in buttons, the home
dressmaker can still use her talent.
Buttons covered with Oriental embroid
eries which give the desired effects can
be further beautified by working over
the embroidered covering a fine silver
or gold thread.
Read this
to the
end.
The obiect of this advertisement
is to make you THINK about your hair.
Is it thin?
Is it lifeless!
Does it comb away easily 1
Are there little white flakes in your hair!
Does your scalp itch ?
Is it too dry?
If you say "yes" to any of these questions,
it is time to PEE VENT future hair and scalp
trouble by using
ED. PINAUD'S
HAIR TONIC
(Eau da Quinin)
Use it faithfully for one month you will
see your hair improve wonderfully. It will
gradually become heavier and more beau
tiful. DANDRUFF WILL DISAPPEAR
dandruff, you know, is the hair's worst enemy.
Any good dealer will sell you a 50c. or $1.00
bottle of ED. PINAUD'S famous Hair Tonic
this will be ample to test this great French
preparation thoroughly.
After you use one bottle, we are content to
leave the matter to your judgment.
PARFHERIE Ef). P1NAUD, NEW YORK