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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Nov. 15, 1908)
THE SUNDAY OKEGOMAX, PORTLAXD. NOVEMBER' 190S. 9& n 5 6' PEAUTY jig Some Fashions for Captious If THE average American homo today the phrase "iirt sixteen" la without meaning. The much -pitted American Sir comes Into her kingdom ao young these days that IS Is mora apt to b cap tious and aggressive than demurely Mlai Sixteen of 1904 knows what she wants, how she wants It and when she wants It. and, alas, very few mothers know how to temper her demands with a Arm hand. In 90 cases out of 100 the girl of IS or thereabouts, especially In cities, dresses too elaborately and too mrlklnaly for her years, and tf her mother protests, the latter la accused of bvlns- -vain and wishing to keep the daughter In short frocks and braided h!r to jweserve her own youthful ap pearance. Therefore Miss Sixteen d mands and sets what she wants, because her mother would not be vainglorious for. the world and Miss Sixteen Is the worse for the yielding. This little homily was suggested by the fact that the styles In frocks and frills for girls this season are bound to appear either a trifle youthful or altogether too grown up. There seems to be no happy medium, but the wise girl and her wise mother will choose the younger models. The IMrectolre styles are not for the girl of IS. She must stick to princess effects for day wear and Empire lines for even ing frocks. Be careful tn the selection of materials for the girl who would look youthful. Satins, which are now so fashionable, have no place In the wardrobe of the srirl still In school. Let net nave even lng clothes by all means, but they should tM evolved from sort, inexpensive ana simple materials, cashmere, lansdowns. voiles and a hundred and one novelty goods which appear under as many fancy names. Kvery young girl needs a smartly tai lored suit for street wear and serge or cheviot is by far better choice than a oft-BiUshed cloth. These rough ma terials will stand all kinds of weather nrt nuir cleanings. The little suit which we show today Is becoming to the average figure. The coat Is seml-ntted and has oddly shaped pockets, which will be the Joy of every girl who wears It, while the very full box-pleated skirt will relieve her of that 'lanky" apppearance. Browns and blues are the best choice of colors. The Jacket should be lined in matching satin. The buttons are cov ered with satin, crossed over and over with narrow silk braid and the trimming braid used should match the cloth In color exactly. The difference In the tex ture of the cloth and braid will be suf ficient contrast. With a suit of this chsracter a young girl needs two or three blouses, one of soft French flannel In harmonizing colors, one In matching silk, and perhaps a wash waist or two. For indoor wear the one-piece dress is nortnlnlv the smartest. The very thin girl, however, should avoid this style and effect the fluffy blouses, -ine eemi-prm-'ceas dress trimmed with large buttons, which is here illustrated. Is a very prac tical model for the house dress of a glr! of 1. Cashmere would be a charming material or a light-weight broadcloth, trimmed with satin-covered buttons and a simple gulmpe of tucked net. For a girl of 1 I would prefer that the sleeves be made of material like the dress with Just the yoke of net. The dress could be made a bit more elaborate by piping each seam with satin folds, or if the color of the gown by a pale one, each seam could be outlined with narrow In sertion of imitation Irish lace and yoke In match. To make a house dress like this model for a girl of 16 requires about five yards of double-width goods. Sailor Bhults. or as they are sometimes called. "Peter Thompson Suits." are still reigning favorites for school and every day wear. The pleated skirt Is much more youthful than the gored models, snd with these suits are worn long. loose ulsters. Dark blue Is a popular color and a dep red. called "dregs of wine." Is very fashionable Just now. Nothing but French serge or French flannel will an swer for such a suit. The braid should be sewn on by hand. It should be In con trasting color, preferably black or a nov elty braid, combining black, white and a color matching the dress itself. The blouse which gives the sloping shoulder effect Is the one the young girls are seeking Just now. and nothing simpler than the one shown today could he found. It has enough fullness over the bust to make It becoming to the un developed figure, and no better material than surah silk could be suggested for It. It would take about four yards of silk to make this blouse. A goods now found In smart shops, called wool taffeta, Is admirably suited for such a garment, and Correct Carriage and Walk Is DEAR, worried woman. In the throes of changing styles and a corset transformation, stop worrying about the decrees of Dame Fashion and the whims of corsetleres, and look to your carriage, your walk. Th modiste does r.ot live, the corset-Otter has not yet been bora, who can give yon the lines attained by standing and walking correctly. Try as these two experts will, they cannot hide tha defects which follow a "sloppy" carriage and a slouching walk. Learn how to hold yourself and how to walk. and you can snap your finger at the changes decreed by those who make fashions. The new corset, fitting like a relent less hardness from bust to far below the hip line, wtH make you woefully uncom fortable, but It will not give yon an at tractive figure nor yet bestow upon you tliat sartorial blessing "style." Tou can attain that only through good carriage, which provides the perfect structure upon which good clothes may be hung and look smart. Give the woman who slouches or lounges or "slumps" the latest triumph from Paquln's or Worth's and she will yet look like a frump. Io you know how to stand correctly? Perhaps. Hut knowing, do you put your knowledge to practical use? The other night at a smart rlayhouse I saw a willowy actress In one of those new hiplesx gowns oi glistening rose colored s.itlu. That Is. she thought she was willowy but she was only angular, fhe actually thrust out one hip when sl.e stood and walked, until It looked like a ho .k on which to har.g a hat. After the play a pretty girl who pre ceded me up the aisle ruined the effect of a beautiful pearl-grav opera cloak by :k i.g with one shoulder fully an Inch and half higher than the other. Kew of thee defects sie due to actual phv.icsl Wo-mlttes. They sre du to h.iblt. and a habit which can be cured. ; the blouse can be trimmed" with bands over the shoulders, neck and cuffs, or simply finished off with silk stitching. There Is a new fabric which is Quite the rage for misses Just new and pre senta a very stunning effect. It Is a shepherd's plaid in red, blue, brown or black, and "this is overlsld with a broad Mm I llv ' ''ilWlfr ilfflX SMART SUIT stripe of soft broadcloth In the dominant color. Another smart combination was seen the other day In tan French serge, trimmed with a soft red and white braid. One of the newest shades for misses' house gowns in known as mignonette green. Such a gown set off with a little green and black trimming with a touch of gold through It. Is most effective. Among the novelties seen In the shops particularly for misses are: Large beaver sailors with brims turn ing down In a modified mushroom style. They are worn without any trimming 1 A most common cause of bad carriage In women Is some bad habit contracted when going to school. Perhaps you car ried your books In the crook of your right or left arm, bracing them on the hip. Naturally, you threw out the hip to support the books without any weight MISSES' FANCY BLOUSE. on the arm. As a result, your one hip ts more prominent th.ui the other, If you r yrung tou can correct the defect by eternal vigilance, holding the protruding A Sweet Sixteen save the band of matching ribbon about the crown. ' Windsor ties In every possible shade, made of heavy surah silk. These ties are worn with Peter Thompson suits, or any blouse with a Poter Pan collar. Dogskin gloves tor rougn ana reaay wear. These gloves have but one button OF SERGE. a large white button sewed on. as the patent clasp has proven Impractical for many reasons. Ready-made bloomers for long walks and general outdoor wear. They are found to be a great saver of laundry. These bloomers are made of pongee silk or soft woolen materials. A new hair ribbon sold under several fancy names, and which does not crease with tying. This ribbon has rather - a wirey quality, which trnds to make the bow stand out and keep in place. MARY DEAN. Secret of Style hip in and keeping your shoulders abso lutely on a level. You' never fail to glance in-a mirror as you pass it in elevator, store or shop window. And what do you study? The angle of your hat, the set of your veil? Let them go from this time' on and take a quick glance at your figure. See how you 'ace carrying yourself. Just 'about three or four of these illuminat ing views of yourself as others see you will set you to thinking about your car riage. The angle of your hat, the pow dering of your nose, will sink Into insig nificance compared to the fashion in which you miscarry your clothes. "But," perhaps you exclaim, "how can I tell when I am standing or walking correctly?" Here is a simple test. Take a heavy book, weighing not less than two pounds, and place it on your head. It It falls off when you think you are standing in an absolutely correct position, than there Is something wrong. If you- can balance It when walking, your carriage Is at least erect. . In the correct standing position the head Is in a line with the rest . of the body, not thrust forward nor held back ward. The chin is In, the chest is thrust out, the abdomen is depressed- and the knees are straight, not wobbly or uncer tain. The heels are together or with one Just an Inch In advance of the ether, and at an angle of not more than 45 degrees, nor less. To thru rt the head forward Is an af fectation. The sunken chest and round shoulders Indicate poor health. The ab domen thrust forward suggests slovenli ness. I would not attempt In this small spaoe to tell you how to walk correctly, for if you have an awkward or slouchy walk you need actual lessons from an expert, and I consider a first-class dancing mas ter an expert teacher of correct walk ing. He will fhow you how to step for ward on the toe and bail of the foot first. Instead of on the heeL He will correct the unsightly habit, acquired by some women, of throwing the feet out toward the side .when walking snd the iiih1iV bad habit of dragging the feet. He will give you lessons in calisthenics by which you will secure balance. If you do not stand or walk correctly, by all means spend less money on your clothes and more on physical culture. Ten dollars' worth of lessons along these lines will make a ten-dollar frock look smart, and the lack of the lessons may ruin the appearance of a gown 'costing $50 or more. Learn how to sit properly. Do not slouch or slump down in the chair with the middle of your back touching the back of the chair, your entire frame sunken and your head hanging forward. The spine must be erect In sitting, and the support should come at the base, not tn the middle, of the spine. Remember that your waist line forms the hinge on which you bend, never your shoulders or the small of your back, as some girls seem to think. And if you are round-shouldered or have one shoulder higher than It ought to be, send me a self-addressed and stamped envelope, and I will send you some exercises to correct the habit which Is endangering the Frenchiest frock ever designed. K A TH ERIN B MORTON. Flora McFlimsy Up-to-Date f "V OLLY Is going to a dance tonight mj and her gloves have not come ' home from the cleaner's.! I must hurry downtown for a new pair be cause the shops are all closed when she gets away from the office." This was Mrs. Blank's excuse when coated and- hatted, she met a caller at her front door. Away she rushed to the elevated railway station, and the caller glanced at her pityingly. "I never knew the time that Polly did have anything to wear and yet she draws a good salary. I wonder what's the matter?" "The matter" Is Polly's mother,- who has not taught Polly how to take care of her clothes. Polly has a lovely evening frock which demands 20-button white gloves. She bought a pair of gloves especially to wear with that frock, but one Sun day afternoon when she wanted to pay some calls she found that her 12-but-ton white gloves were soiled, also her tan-colored gloves, also her chamois gloves so she rumpled up her party gloves and forgot to send them to the cleaner. Her mother ' paid four dollars for another pair of shoulder gloves all because Polly forgot to send them to the cleaner In time. Then Polly had a lovely old rose house frock of softest cashmere. Around the bottom It became discol ored. Polly said, "Oh, let it go. When It gets real dirty I'll send it to the cleaner." This . she did and the cleaner made a mistake, used the wrong cleansing fluid, rotted the pretty cashmere, and closed the Incident by paying Polly Just about one-third of what the gown was worth. Now do you understand why Polly never has anything to wear? Perhaps you think that taking great care of her gowns makes a girl fussy and old maldlsh, but she can do this without being objectionable or prig gish. When she comes home from the party at midnight or later, she need not fling her dress across a chair, in stead she should put It In place upon the padded coathanger and leave It outvwhere sucwill see it first thing in the morning. If she Is not too- tired she will look it over before retiring, and If there are any bad spots show rub a little magnesia, which costs five cents a cake, on the spot. - In the morning. If the spot doeB not come off Ith brushing, she should place the fabric over some folds of old cloth or blotting paper and with an Inflamma ble cleansing fluid rub out the stain. The longer she leaves a stain in the fahric, the less liable It is to come out. If her gloves are not badly soiled, she will rub them with magnesia and lay them away In blue tissue paper. Slight soil will come off 24 hours later with brushing. If they are very much soiled the very next morning, she will stretch them on a cloth-covered board outdoors and rub them with gasoline, then leave them to dry In the sun and air. and finally lay them away In blue tissue paper with sachet bags. She never puts away a hat .without brushing It thoroughly. A hat well cared for will last an entire season. Any reputable milliner will refurbish the hat purchased from her for a song. A good felt or beaver can be re blocked, broken wings can be mended or renewed, ribbon can be sponged and made Into fresh knots. But if you toss "your hat all covered with dust Into the box, the duet will become ground into the fabric and. shape, and neither can be renovated. Girls are more apt to abuse their shoes than any article of clothing. Never put shoes away wet or muddy. Put them on shoe trees, rub them with vaseline to remove the mud or pre vent hardening and have them pol ished the first thing next day. MARY DEAN. Bcadwork the Thing Now. Once upon a time the thing for chil dren to do was to make so-called horse reins, long things knitted upon pins stuck In the head of a spool of fancy colored worsteds. Now the thing seems to be to string narrow bead necklaces1. Almost all the small girls have a device some thing like two violin bridges set up on a board. Fine threads run from one to the other of these bridges and- on these the beads are -strung. The children make fancy patterns, quite as gorgeous in their way as were the color combinations of the worsted work. Now the All-Night Plumber. New Tork Sun. 'I knew that most every line of city activity keeps open all night," said the Brooklyn" man. "but it was a surprise to me to find an all-night plumber, and that In quiet Brooklyn. This plumber an nounces that he can be reached at any time, day or night, Sundays and holi days; all one has to do is to telephone and his men will be on the Job in short order. I should be afraid to try it. though, for with rates for ordinary day time plumbing what the comlo papers say. they are, I suspect the night rates would be altogether-out of reach" Checks for Trimming. Many of the newest fall dresses are showing a touch of trimming or piping of checked material. For instance, a black suit Is beautiful trimmed with a tiny piping of black and white checked serge. A dress of plain material serge or panama is very modish trimmed with bsnds of checked taffeta. What a differ ence a new touch like this mrkes. Even in an old-fashioned dress quite a new effect may --be obtained by Just a little modern trimming, which lightens up the whole and at once shows the wearer is Alp to date. The Girl and Her Young HAT a lot of pleasure In life the girl owes to' her men friends yet how many perplexities these same men friends occasion! Tou will notice that I do not refer to the heartaches men can cause, because they form another story. Today we are going to talk Just about men friends not the men you girls really, truly love or who love you. Tou see, I receive many, many letters from girls asking how to treat men in their own homes and in public, what presents they may accept or give and scores of similar Inquiries.. Often I won der if all these girls are motherless, or is the American mother so absorbed in making both ends of the family Income meet or getting through with the Fall sewing, that she cannot be troubled with questions. Just for half an hour I mean to usurp the place of these mothers who must be so very busy, and talk frankly with their girls. One girl writes: "I spoke of an ac quaintance the other night as a gentle man friend, and a lady who was visiting us laughed. Why!" Not having been present, I cannot ex plain Just why the guest laughed, but I can imagine. It was because this girl spoke of a man as her gentleman friend. That little phrase Is obsolete, fallen into disuse. In the good old days we had gentlemen and ladies who were In a class by themselves and deserved the tltlo, but of late years the words have be(:n so absurd that they are no longer good form. The poor little sweatshop girl whose escort to the Hackman's an nual ball may be a third-rate puglillst, always calls him her "gentleman friend, " consequently girls who are up to date have "men friends." Then the dreadful problem of calls from men how many girls write about that! . . "May I ask a man to call upon me?" Certainly you may but not the liret time you meet him, unless It Is at a house party or week-end stay where- you become friendly at this, your "rst visit to a mutual friend. Generally a girl ' waits until she has met a man several times before extending, the favor, for as a favor she must regard It. The man who asks the privilege of calling may place the girl In a most em barrassing position. For some reason she may not desire to have their ac- MISSES' SEMI qualntance advance further, and yet she j dislikes to appear Inhospitable. A man will show In little ways his desire to con tinue the acquaintance. A girl does not Invite a man who is clearly indifferent to her. And the simplest mode of invitation Is to suy, "We are always' home Sunday afternoon and evenings," or whatever time you , and your mother arrange to be at home together. If the new caller is an American man. you may introduce him to your parents, who are then at liberty to retire from the parlor to the library or sitting-room, and A SIMPLE SCHOOL. DRESS. leave you to entertain the man. This te a custom in all American homes, but first he should certainly meet your mother, or father, In case your mother is dead, whoever is socially the head of your house. But if he Is a foreigner, do not take this chance. In Europe a chaperon Is always present during a man's call, and -PR INC ESS DRESS. the breezy, easy ways of the Americas tirl often mislead the foreigner. No young woman arcepts uny Invita tions to the theater, dances, etc., from a man who has not called at her home. He must call before entertaining her away from the house. In both cities and town, girls under 20 go to the theater with men unchaperoned, but they do not go to restaurants for supper after the play. if a young man comes-from a distant Men Friends city to see a eirl he does not become a guest at her hurae upon his own sug gestion. If he writes of his coming and the girl's family desire to entertain him the letter of invitation Is written by the mother or by the girl In her mother's name. If he is a stranger to the fam ily and this is his first trip to see tho-pirl. he should arrange to stop at a hotel and call on her after registering at the hotel, disposing of his luggage and removing all trace of travel. A &rl writing to a mere man acquaint ance addresses him as "My dear Mr. fimlth," and not until he is counted as an id friend docs she address him as "!.-.. Jack." Her subscription must ha equally unaffected and impersonal, "Yours sin cerely, or "Very cordially yours." never "Liovlngly your." Save something for your engagement letters; do! - A man who is merely a friend dnps not call ofrener than once a week on a girl, and if they are living in different cities they do not write oftener .than once a week. A girl never accepts expensive presents from a man to whom she is not engaged. Flowers, books, bonbons and music or some trinket pertaining" to the girl's par ticular hobby, like photography, golf, etc., are permissible, never jewelry. And she never suggests that a man take her to any place of entertainment, theater, driving, etc. The suggestion must come from him. And last there ts the girl who writes, "What shall I do If a man kisses me un awares? I do not want him to do this, but I do want to hold his friendship. My. answer to the girl k, "Do not try to Keep nis inennsmp. rie is not trie type of man whose friendship in worth while. PKUDENCE3 STANDI SH. The Good of Onions as Food THE dislike of onions la a mere affec tation of gentility. No healthy man or woman ever really disliked onions. but owing to faulty gastronomic per spective It has been thought "nice" to pretend that their flavor and savor are obnoxious. As a matter of fact onions are the foundation of all cookery, good and bad. Moreover, says the London Express, there Is not one of the affected onion despis ers who does not eat them, and enjoy them, without knowing whence comes the subtle aroma which is so alluring and Individual. This is where a good cook excels. The ancient Egyptians considered the onion almost too sacred to eat, and had a mitigated veneration for it, which may, or may not, have been inspired by their gourmet-priests. It must always be re membered, in this connection, that In re cent times it is a horticultural fact that the excessive taste of the onion has been very much mellowed. In "The Queen of the Air" Buskin at tributed the degradation of peasant life very largely to the use of the rank scented onion and garlic. This is absurd, although it must be remembered that throughout .our literature we find fre quent references to the grossness of their odor. Take, for instance, Bottom's direc tions to the clowns: "Most dear actors, eat no onions nor garlic, for we are to utter sweet breath." Among the many quaint traditional at tributes of the onion is the old garden er's belief that the Rose loves the Onion, and puts forth its sweetest blossoms when planted in propinquity. Alphonse Karr, in his "Journey Round My Garden," speaks of yellow garlic (the "moly" of Homer): "It Is more than it appears to be; it has the power of keeping us siife from enchantments, spells and evil pres ages. A crow may fly past you on your left hand, but you need not entertain any fear if you have yellow garlic in your garden." The leek, which Is of the onion tribe, wis so esteemed by the Kniperor Nero, according to the historians, that his sub jects gave him the name of Porophagus (from Allium porrum. tho leek), for he ate them with oil for several days In every month to clear his voice, abstaining from bresd on these leek-eating days. There Is Bible authority, too, for their usefulness. The Israelites in tho deFert pined for "the leeks and the onions and the garlic," which they had enjoyed so abundantly in Egypt. Onions are quite the best nervine strengthener known, no medicine being equally useful in cases of nervous pros tration or so quick to restore and tone up tha Jaded physical system. The very bourgeois French Soupe a l'Olgnon Is a truly wonderful nerve tonic, and, properly made, one of the most dejlclous prepara tions In the world. Again, tlie onion absorbs all morbid matter In Its neighborhood. It has been found on more than one occasion tuat during an epidemic of cholera a string of onions hanging in a house amid other houses which were all infected became unintelligibly diseased and black, but proved thereby protective to the inmates of that particular house. An onion en thusiast, writing of Italy, says: "All the social atmosphere of that delightful land is laden with the fragrance of the onion; Its odor is a practical democracy. In the churches all are alike; there la one faith, one smell." The famous and fatuous Beau Brum mel. in the height of his glory, was asked whether a gentleman might eat onions Immediately before going into the com pany of gentlewomen. "No man is so well-looking and fascinating," he replied, "that on entering a ballroom he can af ford to .handicap himself with a strong odor." The naturalist. Frank Buckland, had the highest opinion of onions as a cure for insomnia. "I am sure the essential oil of onions has specific powers; In my own case it never falls; if I am much pressed with work and feel that I am not disposed to Sleep i em iu u uum small onions, and their effect s magical. The usefulness or tne onion as a means of divination must not be foreotten. In Folkard's "Plant Lore and Legends" na onot-es a verse common in his time in the countryside, and which, in a modified form may, it is said, yet be met with: In thse' same days young wanton gyrles that meet for marrlase be. Doe search to know tha name of them that shall their husbands be; Four onyons, five, or eight they tak,, and make in every one Such names as they do fancie most, and best thins; to think upon: Then near -the chimney them they set, and that same onyon then That first doth sproute doth surely bear the name of their good man. Another and possibly more practical use for onions is conveyed in this old recipe: "Onyon juice annoynted on the bald head, in the sun, bringoth the hairs againe very speedelie." This, surely, must be one of the cheapest hair-restorers on the mar ket. .Onion plaster for bronchitis, onion broth for Influenza, and onion poultico for chilblains are all housewifely and old fashioned remedies. It was Louis Eustache L'do, the grent cook, who originally dubbed the onion "the foundation of all Rookery," and he certainly knew what he was talking about. It is at once the most democratic and most aristorratc if roots, "a radical of the radicals," and vet one without which the King's table would be in complete. To despise it is at once vulgar aud Ignorant.
