THE SUNDAY OKEGOMAX, PORTLAXD. NOVEMBER' 190S.
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5 6' PEAUTY
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Some Fashions for Captious
If THE average American homo today
the phrase "iirt sixteen" la without
meaning. The much -pitted American
Sir comes Into her kingdom ao young
these days that IS Is mora apt to b cap
tious and aggressive than demurely
Mlai Sixteen of 1904 knows what she
wants, how she wants It and when she
wants It. and, alas, very few mothers
know how to temper her demands with
a Arm hand. In 90 cases out of 100 the
girl of IS or thereabouts, especially In
cities, dresses too elaborately and too
mrlklnaly for her years, and tf her
mother protests, the latter la accused of
bvlns- -vain and wishing to keep the
daughter In short frocks and braided
h!r to jweserve her own youthful ap
pearance. Therefore Miss Sixteen d
mands and sets what she wants, because
her mother would not be vainglorious
for. the world and Miss Sixteen Is the
worse for the yielding.
This little homily was suggested by the
fact that the styles In frocks and frills
for girls this season are bound to appear
either a trifle youthful or altogether too
grown up. There seems to be no happy
medium, but the wise girl and her wise
mother will choose the younger models.
The IMrectolre styles are not for the girl
of IS. She must stick to princess effects
for day wear and Empire lines for even
ing frocks.
Be careful tn the selection of materials
for the girl who would look youthful.
Satins, which are now so fashionable,
have no place In the wardrobe of the
srirl still In school. Let net nave even
lng clothes by all means, but they should
tM evolved from sort, inexpensive ana
simple materials, cashmere, lansdowns.
voiles and a hundred and one novelty
goods which appear under as many
fancy names.
Kvery young girl needs a smartly tai
lored suit for street wear and serge or
cheviot is by far better choice than a
oft-BiUshed cloth. These rough ma
terials will stand all kinds of weather
nrt nuir cleanings. The little suit
which we show today Is becoming to the
average figure. The coat Is seml-ntted
and has oddly shaped pockets, which will
be the Joy of every girl who wears It,
while the very full box-pleated skirt will
relieve her of that 'lanky" apppearance.
Browns and blues are the best choice of
colors. The Jacket should be lined in
matching satin. The buttons are cov
ered with satin, crossed over and over
with narrow silk braid and the trimming
braid used should match the cloth In
color exactly. The difference In the tex
ture of the cloth and braid will be suf
ficient contrast.
With a suit of this chsracter a young
girl needs two or three blouses, one of
soft French flannel In harmonizing
colors, one In matching silk, and perhaps
a wash waist or two.
For indoor wear the one-piece dress is
nortnlnlv the smartest. The very thin
girl, however, should avoid this style and
effect the fluffy blouses, -ine eemi-prm-'ceas
dress trimmed with large buttons,
which is here illustrated. Is a very prac
tical model for the house dress of a glr!
of 1. Cashmere would be a charming
material or a light-weight broadcloth,
trimmed with satin-covered buttons and
a simple gulmpe of tucked net. For a
girl of 1 I would prefer that the sleeves
be made of material like the dress with
Just the yoke of net. The dress could be
made a bit more elaborate by piping
each seam with satin folds, or if the
color of the gown by a pale one, each
seam could be outlined with narrow In
sertion of imitation Irish lace and yoke
In match. To make a house dress like
this model for a girl of 16 requires about
five yards of double-width goods.
Sailor Bhults. or as they are sometimes
called. "Peter Thompson Suits." are still
reigning favorites for school and every
day wear. The pleated skirt Is much
more youthful than the gored models,
snd with these suits are worn long. loose
ulsters. Dark blue Is a popular color and
a dep red. called "dregs of wine." Is
very fashionable Just now. Nothing but
French serge or French flannel will an
swer for such a suit. The braid should
be sewn on by hand. It should be In con
trasting color, preferably black or a nov
elty braid, combining black, white and a
color matching the dress itself.
The blouse which gives the sloping
shoulder effect Is the one the young
girls are seeking Just now. and nothing
simpler than the one shown today could
he found. It has enough fullness over
the bust to make It becoming to the un
developed figure, and no better material
than surah silk could be suggested for
It. It would take about four yards of silk
to make this blouse. A goods now found
In smart shops, called wool taffeta, Is
admirably suited for such a garment, and
Correct Carriage and Walk Is
DEAR, worried woman. In the throes
of changing styles and a corset
transformation, stop worrying about
the decrees of Dame Fashion and the
whims of corsetleres, and look to your
carriage, your walk. Th modiste does
r.ot live, the corset-Otter has not yet been
bora, who can give yon the lines attained
by standing and walking correctly. Try
as these two experts will, they cannot
hide tha defects which follow a "sloppy"
carriage and a slouching walk. Learn
how to hold yourself and how to walk.
and you can snap your finger at the
changes decreed by those who make
fashions.
The new corset, fitting like a relent
less hardness from bust to far below the
hip line, wtH make you woefully uncom
fortable, but It will not give yon an at
tractive figure nor yet bestow upon you
tliat sartorial blessing "style." Tou can
attain that only through good carriage,
which provides the perfect structure upon
which good clothes may be hung and
look smart.
Give the woman who slouches or
lounges or "slumps" the latest triumph
from Paquln's or Worth's and she will
yet look like a frump.
Io you know how to stand correctly?
Perhaps. Hut knowing, do you put your
knowledge to practical use?
The other night at a smart rlayhouse
I saw a willowy actress In one of those
new hiplesx gowns oi glistening rose
colored s.itlu. That Is. she thought she
was willowy but she was only angular,
fhe actually thrust out one hip when
sl.e stood and walked, until It looked like
a ho .k on which to har.g a hat.
After the play a pretty girl who pre
ceded me up the aisle ruined the effect
of a beautiful pearl-grav opera cloak by
:k i.g with one shoulder fully an Inch
and half higher than the other.
Kew of thee defects sie due to actual
phv.icsl Wo-mlttes. They sre du to
h.iblt. and a habit which can be cured. ;
the blouse can be trimmed" with bands
over the shoulders, neck and cuffs, or
simply finished off with silk stitching.
There Is a new fabric which is Quite
the rage for misses Just new and pre
senta a very stunning effect. It Is a
shepherd's plaid in red, blue, brown or
black, and "this is overlsld with a broad
Mm I llv '
''ilWlfr ilfflX
SMART SUIT
stripe of soft broadcloth In the dominant
color. Another smart combination was
seen the other day In tan French serge,
trimmed with a soft red and white braid.
One of the newest shades for misses'
house gowns in known as mignonette
green. Such a gown set off with a little
green and black trimming with a touch
of gold through It. Is most effective.
Among the novelties seen In the shops
particularly for misses are:
Large beaver sailors with brims turn
ing down In a modified mushroom style.
They are worn without any trimming
1
A most common cause of bad carriage In
women Is some bad habit contracted
when going to school. Perhaps you car
ried your books In the crook of your
right or left arm, bracing them on the
hip. Naturally, you threw out the hip
to support the books without any weight
MISSES' FANCY BLOUSE.
on the arm. As a result, your one hip
ts more prominent th.ui the other, If you
r yrung tou can correct the defect by
eternal vigilance, holding the protruding
A
Sweet Sixteen
save the band of matching ribbon about
the crown.
' Windsor ties In every possible shade,
made of heavy surah silk. These ties
are worn with Peter Thompson suits, or
any blouse with a Poter Pan collar.
Dogskin gloves tor rougn ana reaay
wear. These gloves have but one button
OF SERGE.
a large white button sewed on. as the
patent clasp has proven Impractical for
many reasons.
Ready-made bloomers for long walks
and general outdoor wear. They are
found to be a great saver of laundry.
These bloomers are made of pongee silk
or soft woolen materials.
A new hair ribbon sold under several
fancy names, and which does not crease
with tying. This ribbon has rather - a
wirey quality, which trnds to make the
bow stand out and keep in place.
MARY DEAN.
Secret of Style
hip in and keeping your shoulders abso
lutely on a level.
You' never fail to glance in-a mirror
as you pass it in elevator, store or shop
window. And what do you study? The
angle of your hat, the set of your veil?
Let them go from this time' on and
take a quick glance at your figure. See
how you 'ace carrying yourself. Just
'about three or four of these illuminat
ing views of yourself as others see you
will set you to thinking about your car
riage. The angle of your hat, the pow
dering of your nose, will sink Into insig
nificance compared to the fashion in
which you miscarry your clothes.
"But," perhaps you exclaim, "how can
I tell when I am standing or walking
correctly?"
Here is a simple test. Take a heavy
book, weighing not less than two pounds,
and place it on your head. It It falls off
when you think you are standing in an
absolutely correct position, than there Is
something wrong. If you- can balance It
when walking, your carriage Is at least
erect. .
In the correct standing position the
head Is in a line with the rest . of the
body, not thrust forward nor held back
ward. The chin is In, the chest is thrust
out, the abdomen is depressed- and the
knees are straight, not wobbly or uncer
tain. The heels are together or with one
Just an Inch In advance of the ether,
and at an angle of not more than 45
degrees, nor less.
To thru rt the head forward Is an af
fectation. The sunken chest and round
shoulders Indicate poor health. The ab
domen thrust forward suggests slovenli
ness. I would not attempt In this small spaoe
to tell you how to walk correctly, for if
you have an awkward or slouchy walk
you need actual lessons from an expert,
and I consider a first-class dancing mas
ter an expert teacher of correct walk
ing. He will fhow you how to step for
ward on the toe and bail of the foot first.
Instead of on the heeL He will correct
the unsightly habit, acquired by some
women, of throwing the feet out toward
the side .when walking snd the iiih1iV
bad habit of dragging the feet. He will
give you lessons in calisthenics by which
you will secure balance.
If you do not stand or walk correctly,
by all means spend less money on your
clothes and more on physical culture.
Ten dollars' worth of lessons along these
lines will make a ten-dollar frock look
smart, and the lack of the lessons may
ruin the appearance of a gown 'costing
$50 or more.
Learn how to sit properly. Do not
slouch or slump down in the chair with
the middle of your back touching the
back of the chair, your entire frame
sunken and your head hanging forward.
The spine must be erect In sitting, and
the support should come at the base, not
tn the middle, of the spine. Remember
that your waist line forms the hinge on
which you bend, never your shoulders or
the small of your back, as some girls
seem to think.
And if you are round-shouldered or
have one shoulder higher than It ought
to be, send me a self-addressed and
stamped envelope, and I will send you
some exercises to correct the habit which
Is endangering the Frenchiest frock ever
designed. K A TH ERIN B MORTON.
Flora McFlimsy Up-to-Date
f "V OLLY Is going to a dance tonight
mj and her gloves have not come
' home from the cleaner's.! I must
hurry downtown for a new pair be
cause the shops are all closed when
she gets away from the office."
This was Mrs. Blank's excuse when
coated and- hatted, she met a caller
at her front door. Away she rushed
to the elevated railway station, and
the caller glanced at her pityingly.
"I never knew the time that Polly
did have anything to wear and yet
she draws a good salary. I wonder
what's the matter?"
"The matter" Is Polly's mother,- who
has not taught Polly how to take care
of her clothes.
Polly has a lovely evening frock
which demands 20-button white gloves.
She bought a pair of gloves especially
to wear with that frock, but one Sun
day afternoon when she wanted to pay
some calls she found that her 12-but-ton
white gloves were soiled, also her
tan-colored gloves, also her chamois
gloves so she rumpled up her party
gloves and forgot to send them to the
cleaner. Her mother ' paid four dollars
for another pair of shoulder gloves
all because Polly forgot to send them
to the cleaner In time.
Then Polly had a lovely old rose
house frock of softest cashmere.
Around the bottom It became discol
ored. Polly said, "Oh, let it go. When
It gets real dirty I'll send it to the
cleaner." This . she did and the
cleaner made a mistake, used the
wrong cleansing fluid, rotted the pretty
cashmere, and closed the Incident by
paying Polly Just about one-third of
what the gown was worth.
Now do you understand why Polly
never has anything to wear?
Perhaps you think that taking great
care of her gowns makes a girl fussy
and old maldlsh, but she can do this
without being objectionable or prig
gish. When she comes home from the
party at midnight or later, she need
not fling her dress across a chair, in
stead she should put It In place upon
the padded coathanger and leave It
outvwhere sucwill see it first thing in
the morning. If she Is not too- tired
she will look it over before retiring,
and If there are any bad spots show
rub a little magnesia, which costs five
cents a cake, on the spot. - In the
morning. If the spot doeB not come off
Ith brushing, she should place the
fabric over some folds of old cloth or
blotting paper and with an Inflamma
ble cleansing fluid rub out the stain.
The longer she leaves a stain in the
fahric, the less liable It is to come out.
If her gloves are not badly soiled,
she will rub them with magnesia and
lay them away In blue tissue paper.
Slight soil will come off 24 hours later
with brushing. If they are very much
soiled the very next morning, she will
stretch them on a cloth-covered board
outdoors and rub them with gasoline,
then leave them to dry In the sun and
air. and finally lay them away In blue
tissue paper with sachet bags.
She never puts away a hat .without
brushing It thoroughly. A hat well
cared for will last an entire season.
Any reputable milliner will refurbish
the hat purchased from her for a song.
A good felt or beaver can be re
blocked, broken wings can be mended
or renewed, ribbon can be sponged and
made Into fresh knots. But if you
toss "your hat all covered with dust
Into the box, the duet will become
ground into the fabric and. shape, and
neither can be renovated.
Girls are more apt to abuse their
shoes than any article of clothing.
Never put shoes away wet or muddy.
Put them on shoe trees, rub them with
vaseline to remove the mud or pre
vent hardening and have them pol
ished the first thing next day.
MARY DEAN.
Bcadwork the Thing Now.
Once upon a time the thing for chil
dren to do was to make so-called horse
reins, long things knitted upon pins stuck
In the head of a spool of fancy colored
worsteds. Now the thing seems to be to
string narrow bead necklaces1. Almost
all the small girls have a device some
thing like two violin bridges set up on a
board.
Fine threads run from one to the other
of these bridges and- on these the beads
are -strung. The children make fancy
patterns, quite as gorgeous in their way
as were the color combinations of the
worsted work.
Now the All-Night Plumber.
New Tork Sun.
'I knew that most every line of city
activity keeps open all night," said the
Brooklyn" man. "but it was a surprise to
me to find an all-night plumber, and that
In quiet Brooklyn. This plumber an
nounces that he can be reached at any
time, day or night, Sundays and holi
days; all one has to do is to telephone
and his men will be on the Job in short
order. I should be afraid to try it.
though, for with rates for ordinary day
time plumbing what the comlo papers
say. they are, I suspect the night rates
would be altogether-out of reach"
Checks for Trimming.
Many of the newest fall dresses are
showing a touch of trimming or piping
of checked material. For instance, a
black suit Is beautiful trimmed with a
tiny piping of black and white checked
serge. A dress of plain material serge
or panama is very modish trimmed with
bsnds of checked taffeta. What a differ
ence a new touch like this mrkes. Even
in an old-fashioned dress quite a new
effect may --be obtained by Just a little
modern trimming, which lightens up the
whole and at once shows the wearer is
Alp to date.
The Girl and Her Young
HAT a lot of pleasure In life the
girl owes to' her men friends yet
how many perplexities these same
men friends occasion! Tou will notice
that I do not refer to the heartaches men
can cause, because they form another
story. Today we are going to talk Just
about men friends not the men you girls
really, truly love or who love you.
Tou see, I receive many, many letters
from girls asking how to treat men in
their own homes and in public, what
presents they may accept or give and
scores of similar Inquiries.. Often I won
der if all these girls are motherless, or
is the American mother so absorbed in
making both ends of the family Income
meet or getting through with the Fall
sewing, that she cannot be troubled with
questions.
Just for half an hour I mean to usurp
the place of these mothers who must
be so very busy, and talk frankly with
their girls.
One girl writes: "I spoke of an ac
quaintance the other night as a gentle
man friend, and a lady who was visiting
us laughed. Why!"
Not having been present, I cannot ex
plain Just why the guest laughed, but
I can imagine. It was because this girl
spoke of a man as her gentleman friend.
That little phrase Is obsolete, fallen into
disuse. In the good old days we had
gentlemen and ladies who were In a
class by themselves and deserved the
tltlo, but of late years the words have
be(:n so absurd that they are no longer
good form. The poor little sweatshop
girl whose escort to the Hackman's an
nual ball may be a third-rate puglillst,
always calls him her "gentleman friend, "
consequently girls who are up to date
have "men friends."
Then the dreadful problem of calls
from men how many girls write about
that! .
. "May I ask a man to call upon me?"
Certainly you may but not the liret
time you meet him, unless It Is at a
house party or week-end stay where- you
become friendly at this, your "rst visit
to a mutual friend. Generally a girl '
waits until she has met a man several
times before extending, the favor, for as
a favor she must regard It.
The man who asks the privilege of
calling may place the girl In a most em
barrassing position. For some reason
she may not desire to have their ac-
MISSES' SEMI
qualntance advance further, and yet she j
dislikes to appear Inhospitable. A man
will show In little ways his desire to con
tinue the acquaintance. A girl does not
Invite a man who is clearly indifferent to
her. And the simplest mode of invitation
Is to suy, "We are always' home Sunday
afternoon and evenings," or whatever
time you , and your mother arrange to
be at home together.
If the new caller is an American man.
you may introduce him to your parents,
who are then at liberty to retire from the
parlor to the library or sitting-room, and
A SIMPLE SCHOOL. DRESS.
leave you to entertain the man. This
te a custom in all American homes, but
first he should certainly meet your
mother, or father, In case your mother
is dead, whoever is socially the head of
your house.
But if he Is a foreigner, do not take
this chance. In Europe a chaperon Is
always present during a man's call, and
-PR INC ESS DRESS.
the breezy, easy ways of the Americas
tirl often mislead the foreigner.
No young woman arcepts uny Invita
tions to the theater, dances, etc., from
a man who has not called at her home.
He must call before entertaining her
away from the house.
In both cities and town, girls under 20
go to the theater with men unchaperoned,
but they do not go to restaurants for
supper after the play.
if a young man comes-from a distant
Men Friends
city to see a eirl he does not become
a guest at her hurae upon his own sug
gestion. If he writes of his coming and
the girl's family desire to entertain him
the letter of invitation Is written by the
mother or by the girl In her mother's
name. If he is a stranger to the fam
ily and this is his first trip to see tho-pirl.
he should arrange to stop at a hotel and
call on her after registering at the hotel,
disposing of his luggage and removing
all trace of travel.
A &rl writing to a mere man acquaint
ance addresses him as "My dear Mr.
fimlth," and not until he is counted as an
id friend docs she address him as "!.-..
Jack." Her subscription must ha equally
unaffected and impersonal, "Yours sin
cerely, or "Very cordially yours." never
"Liovlngly your." Save something for
your engagement letters; do! -
A man who is merely a friend dnps
not call ofrener than once a week on
a girl, and if they are living in different
cities they do not write oftener .than
once a week.
A girl never accepts expensive presents
from a man to whom she is not engaged.
Flowers, books, bonbons and music or
some trinket pertaining" to the girl's par
ticular hobby, like photography, golf,
etc., are permissible, never jewelry. And
she never suggests that a man take her
to any place of entertainment, theater,
driving, etc. The suggestion must come
from him.
And last there ts the girl who writes,
"What shall I do If a man kisses me un
awares? I do not want him to do this,
but I do want to hold his friendship.
My. answer to the girl k, "Do not try
to Keep nis inennsmp. rie is not trie
type of man whose friendship in worth
while. PKUDENCE3 STANDI SH.
The Good of Onions
as Food
THE dislike of onions la a mere affec
tation of gentility. No healthy man
or woman ever really disliked onions.
but owing to faulty gastronomic per
spective It has been thought "nice" to
pretend that their flavor and savor are
obnoxious.
As a matter of fact onions are the
foundation of all cookery, good and bad.
Moreover, says the London Express, there
Is not one of the affected onion despis
ers who does not eat them, and enjoy
them, without knowing whence comes the
subtle aroma which is so alluring and
Individual. This is where a good cook
excels.
The ancient Egyptians considered the
onion almost too sacred to eat, and had
a mitigated veneration for it, which may,
or may not, have been inspired by their
gourmet-priests. It must always be re
membered, in this connection, that In re
cent times it is a horticultural fact that
the excessive taste of the onion has been
very much mellowed.
In "The Queen of the Air" Buskin at
tributed the degradation of peasant life
very largely to the use of the rank
scented onion and garlic. This is absurd,
although it must be remembered that
throughout .our literature we find fre
quent references to the grossness of their
odor. Take, for instance, Bottom's direc
tions to the clowns: "Most dear actors,
eat no onions nor garlic, for we are to
utter sweet breath."
Among the many quaint traditional at
tributes of the onion is the old garden
er's belief that the Rose loves the Onion,
and puts forth its sweetest blossoms when
planted in propinquity. Alphonse Karr,
in his "Journey Round My Garden,"
speaks of yellow garlic (the "moly" of
Homer): "It Is more than it appears to
be; it has the power of keeping us siife
from enchantments, spells and evil pres
ages. A crow may fly past you on your
left hand, but you need not entertain any
fear if you have yellow garlic in your
garden."
The leek, which Is of the onion tribe,
wis so esteemed by the Kniperor Nero,
according to the historians, that his sub
jects gave him the name of Porophagus
(from Allium porrum. tho leek), for he
ate them with oil for several days In
every month to clear his voice, abstaining
from bresd on these leek-eating days.
There Is Bible authority, too, for their
usefulness. The Israelites in tho deFert
pined for "the leeks and the onions and
the garlic," which they had enjoyed so
abundantly in Egypt.
Onions are quite the best nervine
strengthener known, no medicine being
equally useful in cases of nervous pros
tration or so quick to restore and tone
up tha Jaded physical system. The very
bourgeois French Soupe a l'Olgnon Is a
truly wonderful nerve tonic, and, properly
made, one of the most dejlclous prepara
tions In the world.
Again, tlie onion absorbs all morbid
matter In Its neighborhood. It has been
found on more than one occasion tuat
during an epidemic of cholera a string
of onions hanging in a house amid other
houses which were all infected became
unintelligibly diseased and black, but
proved thereby protective to the inmates
of that particular house. An onion en
thusiast, writing of Italy, says: "All
the social atmosphere of that delightful
land is laden with the fragrance of the
onion; Its odor is a practical democracy.
In the churches all are alike; there la
one faith, one smell."
The famous and fatuous Beau Brum
mel. in the height of his glory, was asked
whether a gentleman might eat onions
Immediately before going into the com
pany of gentlewomen. "No man is so
well-looking and fascinating," he replied,
"that on entering a ballroom he can af
ford to .handicap himself with a strong
odor."
The naturalist. Frank Buckland, had
the highest opinion of onions as a cure
for insomnia. "I am sure the essential
oil of onions has specific powers; In my
own case it never falls; if I am much
pressed with work and feel that I am
not disposed to Sleep i em iu u uum
small onions, and their effect s magical.
The usefulness or tne onion as a means
of divination must not be foreotten. In
Folkard's "Plant Lore and Legends" na
onot-es a verse common in his time in the
countryside, and which, in a modified
form may, it is said, yet be met with:
In thse' same days young wanton gyrles
that meet for marrlase be.
Doe search to know tha name of them
that shall their husbands be;
Four onyons, five, or eight they tak,, and
make in every one
Such names as they do fancie most, and
best thins; to think upon:
Then near -the chimney them they set, and
that same onyon then
That first doth sproute doth surely bear
the name of their good man.
Another and possibly more practical use
for onions is conveyed in this old recipe:
"Onyon juice annoynted on the bald head,
in the sun, bringoth the hairs againe very
speedelie." This, surely, must be one of
the cheapest hair-restorers on the mar
ket. .Onion plaster for bronchitis, onion
broth for Influenza, and onion poultico
for chilblains are all housewifely and old
fashioned remedies.
It was Louis Eustache L'do, the grent
cook, who originally dubbed the onion
"the foundation of all Rookery," and
he certainly knew what he was talking
about. It is at once the most democratic
and most aristorratc if roots, "a radical
of the radicals," and vet one without
which the King's table would be in
complete. To despise it is at once vulgar
aud Ignorant.