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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Sept. 27, 1908)
TIIE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX. PORTLAND, SEPTE3IBER 27, 1908. """" III f Maddening Mixtures in Autumn Styles TUB wotran shopping bound needs to have her nerves steady and her head clear. This is a 'season to undo the one and unsettle the other. It Is a season of bewildering periods, hopelessly commingled with indescribable results. And It is a season of dismaying extravagance in quantities and prices. Isually a woman has a fairly good Idea of what the prevailing modes will be. This season It takes the seventh daughter born with a veil at that, to tell Just which modes will survive the first onslaught of feminine shoppers. Last season the prin cess sown for house-wear and the pleated skirt with cutaway coat led all other de signs. Thia year there seems absolutely no leader, but an awful struggle 'or su premacy among a dozen modes, each of which la equally trying to the needle of ' h lneranrienced home sewer. Even the most successful modistes tremble before this year's modes. Suggestions of tho princess do remain. but the waist line Is raised almost to the bust, and unless this high girdle effect is treated with Infinite care, the figure is hopelessly shortened. Then Instead of the panel and tucked or pleated effect In the gores of the princess robe, you have ab solutely no pleats, and perfectly fitted skirts with a few draped effects, particU' lurlr In the front of the bodice. One thing bear In mind, the sheath skirt as exploited by the dally press Is not being accepted by any one except stage managers who desire to secure startling effects in the way of costuming. Neither will well-dressed American women wear the Dlreotoire gown generally. The sheath gown Is simply a very snug-flttlng, one piece robe, split up on the side to disclose either the right limb enclosed In silk tights or contrasting color or an extreme Iv diaphanous under skirt of chiffon or similar fabrics which might Just as well be omitted so far as lending any re spectability to the garment. No American woman or mod kite Is taking this costume seriously. The Directolre costume, a shapeless yet perfectly cut robe, is so tight that its wearer has to edge along, not really walk. It is all In one piece, with a very ehort waist and a straight line smoothly fitted over the hips. It gives the effect of being narrower around the feet than at the waist line. It is being worn by ultra fashionable women in the privacy of their home or at exclusive entertainments, but w.-ll-bred women do not sport It In public The Dlreotoire influence, however, is making itself felt and this In combination with certain classic or Greek lines that are hard to attain. Unquestionably the straight lines prevail; everything has a slimpsy. sleazy look, that unless carefully and artistically attained, is absolutely dowdy, and all styles are calculated to strike terror to the heart of the-stout wo man. The fabrics are all clinging and very, very simple. Broadcloth and other cloths for house and street frocks are soft as silk and not much thicker. All the silks and satins are woven In very light weights and crumple in the hand like chiffon cloth. Plain supple silks and satins are offered for costumes to he worn for callln?. and even the woman who has no carriage is using silk or satin for her Autumn suit. A new cord ed silk called cotele bengallne, not un like an ottoman weave, Is very popu lar for coat suits, the long shapeless Dlrectolre or Louies coats. Chiffon moua sellna, marqulesette and new Cashmere silks, the latter looking like lovely old Cashmere shawls, with a satin sheen, are In great demand. Some bordered goods are still shown, but In different designs from thoee offered this Summer, the pat tern now being la flowers of the most ex quisite tones, so woven as to simulate hand-painting. Practically no suitings are shown except lor what are known as strictly tailored costumes. Everything for house wear and calling, receptions, etc. la either In silk or with so much silk combined with the wool mat the latter Is Invisible. The trimmings are beyond words, so rarely beautiful, so perfect In tone and handiwork. Net forms the foundation of nearly ail the new trimmings, and this is either braided with soft slue sou tache or embroidered In padded stltch ery. with a few beads. For combination with white silks, satins, chiffons and marquisettes, a charming trimming In various widths shows a dot and Greek ' pattern combined, all In white. You Treatment of The tendency of the young woman during vacation days la toward complexion-carelessness. She has heard so much of the efficacy of out-door life and sunlight on her general health that she forgets that sun and wind also hold possibilities for ruining her good looks, temporarily at least. There Is nothing which will make .a girl look so ungroomed and "blowzy" as intemperate tanning. A good color, the sort which comes with a healthful outdoor Ufa, Is entirely different from the extreme complexion-carelessness of which the would-be Summer girl Is guilty. I know of girls who deliberate ly alternate plunges in the surf with long rests on the unshaded sands for the express purpose of securing a lob- Chiffon Cloth and Tinbroldered Net Banding. S Iplflf can get the same design in all the pale and neutral colors. For combination with a brown satin comes a net of gold silk rather dull, embroidered In soft mauve and mossy gray green, with here and there a very few gold beads. On an oyster-white net was an em broidery of delicate pastel silks and opalescent beads. This trimming comes not only In banding, motifs and galoons, but it can be had in complete sets, forming boleros to be worn over Di rectolre or Empire gowns, girdles, sashes. HOUSE GOWN OP BLACK AM) WHITE MARQUISETTE. etc Not a few tasseled ornaments are offered, but little fringe is shown. A marked feature of the Fall openings has been the long sleeve, which modistes are doing their best to force upon the American women. Even some of the de collette gowns, so far as shoulders are concerned are accompanied by the regu lation Bernhardt sleeve, crinkly, soft and long enough to come clear down over the knuckle. The blouse shown in today's Illustra tions gives a very fair Idea of the appli cation of the trimming described above, on a foundation of chiffon cloth over Mes sallne. The odd little reveres are em broidered to match the banding. The calling costume was drawn from a model In ottoman silk of a most beauti ful shade of peacock green with Just a touch of the same shade of green, a har monious oyster-white and old-gold in the embroidery on collar and cuffs. The skirt. Post - Vacation Complexion Iills ster-Iike tan. This causes talk on their return to town but It also causes un complimentary comment later on when the social season opens and dainty evening frocks make mottled, blistered skins look the worse by violent con trast. If you have abused your skin In this fashion, try to undo the mischief as soon as possible. For general roughness and perhaps a tendency to fine, minute white scales, use water as hot as you can bear It, with almond meal shaken into it. The following formula gives a very sooth ing meal: Bitter almond meal 6 ounces Orri root (powdered) 4 ounces Wheat flour 4 ounces White castile coap (powdered).. 1 ounce Borax (powdered) 1 ounce Oil of berssmot 2 drachms Kxtract of musk 1 drachm Oil of bitter almonds 10 drops Mix the dry lngredlenta thoroughly, then sift and add the perfumes. Sift a second time and pour into a large, wide-mouthed Jar. Have ready a smaller box with a perforated top, and from time to time fill this with the meal and keep it on your washstand. The powder may then be sifted into your complexion brush or on your washrag. A very good lotion for whitening the skin is this: Tincture of bensoin H ounce Tincture of vnnUln 2 drachms Bargains Worth Seeking This Is the season of the year when the average shopper is apt to overtook the bargain counter or square. She Is eager to see the new things, not the "left-overs." 8he Is desperately afraid that he might buy something Just a little passe. Later she win realize that some of those very Summer left-overs would have been most wise purchases. To begin with watch the silk counter. Do not turn your back upon a remnant of flowered or figured Bummer silk of a soft quality. The smartest of chiffon, voile and marquesette frocks will be made over flowered, figured and even striped silks showing two or more col ors. A lovely chiffon cloth robe recent ly noted at an opening was of palest with its high girdle, coming almost to the bust line, was absolutely plain, but per fectly fitted, and the coat had long points on the sides, but was cut very short in the back. The house gown of black and white messallne tells how the Btrlped fabrics are employed as trimmings. It shows also the high-cut skirt and the ubiquitous vest of shirred chiffon and exquisitely embroidered banding. This striped ma terial In black and white -la very dashing but the color combination in the strip of embroidered net is most delicate, soft pinks, blues and dead white. The evening frock Bhows a tendency toward classic drapery. The silk is trim med with matching fringe around the tunic, and the draped bodice is finished at the back with long streamers of the silk, trimmed fith fringe. The bodice section or what was once called guimpe, is made from embroidered net. perfectly matching the shade of silk with Persian tones In the embroidery. A word of warning in making up all Fall raiment. Acold the conventional petticoat or drop skirt. Dressmakers still stand out for taffetas, because It has body, but get a supple taffetas, and If you can Induce the lady of autocratic habits to use it, select messallne of the softest quality. Tour frock must not be bouffant, but must give the effect of no lining, no petticoat, to be truly smart. MART DEAN. Rosewater, triple 1 pints Mix the two tinctures first and then add the water very slowly to guard against curdling. The result should be a milky looking lotion. Bathe the face at least twice a day with this, using soft old linen or antiseptic gauze. This lotion will reduce the burning sensation of over-tanning. Another milky emulsion which will not only reduce Inflammation, but re move the shine from an oily face is this: Tincture of benzoin 1 ounce Tincture of musk .2- drachms Tincture of ambergris 4 drachms Rectified spirits -...5 ounces Orange-flower water 1 pints Mix the tinctures together, then the spirits and finally add the orange flower water. In mild cases of freckles, this Is most efficacious. Very often an ugly, scaly rash is the penalty of over-indulgence In Summer resort sweets. This is particularly an noying wherever pressure of clothing Is felt, like waist-bands, collars, etc. If permitted to go on unchecked, these rashes sometimes suppurate and become quite painful. A soothing lotion Is as follows: Flder-flower water .' 7 ounces Glvcerlne . 1 ounce Borax H drachm Apply at least twice dally with soft linen or antiseptic gauze. KATHERINB MORTON. ecru over a flowered silk in delicate blues, pinks and greyish green on a white ground. Odd little sleeveless Jackets will also be worn about the house this Winter, over net or lace robes, and for these flowered. Persian or Cashmere silk remnants are most desirable. Pompa dour effects trimmed with black velvet ribbon and Jet or rhlnestone ornaments will be very smart over a white, cream or mode colored house robe. Look out for scraps of embroidered or braided net. If It la slightly soiled and therefore ridiculously cheap lucky you! It can be cleaned at home with French chalk or gasoline and will prove Just the right touch on your net or silk blouse. Strips of heavily beaded net or bead or pearl ornaments large enough to sim ulate a huge clasp or barbaric ornament best described as a long, narrow girdle buckle will be invaluable. They will be used on soft, short-waisted evening gowns, stretched right across the bust, like a huge clasp. A strip of plain or fancy net in cream, black or white Is a good bargain. Net flounces are replacing silk ones on silk petticoats. A few little rhlnestone ornaments or fancy buttons with flat shanks are a good pick-up. likewise, for velvet ' rib bon bands will be worn around the throat. On these a touch of rhlnestone trimming is most effective. Don't despise three or four handsome buttons tossed Into the remnant basket. If they will combine In coloring with your house frock or ptreet suit, they will be useful. Three striking big buttons on the front of a coat or to fasten tho drapery o'f a blouse will give Just the needed touch of distinction to the cos tume. MARY DEAN. SANDWICHES Brown Bread Sandwiches For this purpose use either Neuchatel or Phila delphia cream cheese. If the former is very hard, you must moisten It a trifle with sweet milk, or, better still, cream. Add Just a dash of paprika to give It tang and a little salt. Finally, to each cheese add half a cup of nut meats, ground In your meat chopper. English walnuts are best for this purpose. Al monds are flat In flavor. Spread this mixture on thin slices of brown bread, brushed with melted butter. e Nut Salad Sandwiches. Grind Eng lish walnuts or hickory nuts In your meat grinder, mix with an equal quantity of celery chopped very, very fine, and add to this mixture mayon naise, made with plenty of lemon Juice. Have white bread cut thin, brush lightly with melted butter, lay on a crisp lettuce leaf, spread this with the nut and celery mixture, lay the second slice of bread upon it, and serve at once. Olive Sandwiches. Cut the meat off the stones and chop the olives very fine. Mix with mayonnaise dressing and spread on unbuttered white bread, cut very thin. Tongue and Veal Sandwiches. Re move from cold tongue and veal every scrap of fat, gristle and skin. Grind In your meat chopper, moisten Just a trifle with soup stock and season high ly with paprika and a mere dash of nutmeg. Spread lightly on thin white bread, and serve very cold. A half warm meat sandwich Is not appetizing. If you prefer a salad sandwich, add to the ground tongue and veal a little mayonnaise. Another very dainty meat sandwich which must be served crisp is made from white bread, brushed lightly with butter, a crisp nasturtium leaf or sprig of water cress, and a sliver of highly seasoned cold chicken, spread with a little mayonnaise. Suggestions for Laundress. Every one cannot afford to send every difficult piece to an expert laundress, who sometimes charges as much to do up a garment as It originally cost. It is often necessary, for reasons of economy, to do up most of one's things at home. Sometimes a laundress Is brought In to help. In other homes the work Is done by the family. And this is a season when the vaca tionists have to struggle with the prob lem of clean clothes and the laundry bill, and it is a sturdy fight. . Many dollars can be saved by knowing how to d things one's self. For In stance, here Is a good suggestion from an expert laundress on things to avoid when washing colored frocks: Never use hot water. Always have clean warm water. Never put bluing In such frocks, as It alters the colors for a time, if not forever. Wash such frocks in a strong lather, adding a tablespoonful of ox gall. If the material is lawn or organdie or swlss it Is good to put a tablespoonful of gum arable water in with the starch. Wring or squeeze the gown well, and dry it as quickly as possible. CALLING COSTUME OF PEACOCK GREEN OTTOMAN SILK. The Etiquette of College Life THE girl who enters her freshman year at college faces a system of etiquette as rigid as the rules of class and lecture-room which are post ed on the bulletin board. If she has not been posted on college good form, she learns by experience more or less sad, and that Is why I am offering to day a few suggestions for the girl at the beginning of her college career. First, a freshman must never make any advances except to members of EVENING GOWN OF LAFAYETTE MES SALINE. her own class. Even if she happens to know some upper-classman outside of college she must not take it upon her self te make the first step In continu ing the friendship. In the college where there are "fraternities" or simi lar societies, the freshman must, step very carefully. She must never, never, under any circumstance, mention one of these societies to a member of a society, and if by any chance a mem ber should mention her society, the freshman must act as If nothing had been said. In some colleges it is bad taste for a freshman to pass the chap ter houses of these societies excepting in company of one of their members. It is also in bad taste for a freshman to allow her eyes to rest, more than casually on the -pin of membership, and many an unwary freshman has been branded as too "fresh" who has innocently remarked that Bhe liked the pin that a certain girl was wear ing. A freshman who is being "rushed." or, as they say in the West, "spiked." by a society is in great danger of what Is known as "swelled head." and noth ing is more detrimental than this for ' ISP chances of "making" the society she de Blres. And the freshman who is not be ing "rushed" and who Is not "in with" the girls who are, must take great pains not to do what Is known as "butting In." Value of CarefulTrunkPacking WHEN a girl is old enough to pay visits by herself among her friends she Is old enough to understand the im portance of having her luggage smart and her various trunks and bags neatly packed and fitted. Not every girl can have a maid at her beck and call to do all the packing and see that all her garments are carefully laid away, with all precau tions taken against wrinkles, but there Is no excuse ever for careless packing or untidy, old-fashioned luggage. Economy had best be practiced anywhere else than here, for at a large house party the trunk is bound to be more or less on view, and It Is a mistake to forfeit the respect of the maid who unpacks the trunk by a heterogeneous mixing of underwear and hats, waists, tennis racquet and boots. New ribbons In old underwear will do much to make the lingerie appear dainty and sweet. Pretty cases of bright colored silk and satin for the collars, ties, belts, veils, etc., give evidence at once of an orderly trend of mind and the desire to have all the personal belongings as per fect In their way as possible, and these cases are all extremely easy to make out of old scraps and odd lengths of silk and ribbon. Then again gowns, hats and waists which are carefully packed and folded at the end as well as at the com mencement of each visit will enable the girl to appear well dressed at all times, no matter how limited her outfit, whereas if the clothes are thrown carelessly Into their trays their pristine freshness will soon vanish, not to be restored by any amount of ironing or refreshing. In packing hats, and especially the size and shaped hats of today, with their un usual amount of delicate and perishable flower and ribbon trimming, it -will be found an excellent plan to fasten the hat securely in the tray by means of tape or ribbon instead of simply stuffing the empty corners with tissue paper to pre vent the straw from becoming bent or broken In slipping about. A piece of rib bon or tape is tacked, pinned, or. If pos sible, sewed Into the four sides of the tray and then the other end of this tape Is pinned nicely to the edges of the hat and the four ends tied together in the center. In this way it Is impossible for the hat to budge from its position no matter how roughly the trunk may be handled. A hat trunk in which each hat can be pinned to Its own rest Is, of course, the best solution for safekeeping In trav eling, but It Is not always convenient to take the extra trunk, especially this year, when the "Merry Widow" hat demands very nearly a Saratoga for Itself alone. Instead of using countless wads of tis sue paper between gowns or waists, a tray cover of lawn or dimity will do much to simplify packing. These Covers are made the length and width of the tray, with top flaps, which are tied together with ribbon over the gown which they protect. Bordered with frills of lace or embroidered batiste, and further adorned with insertions of lace, these cases do The best thing for such a Sirl to do. If she wishes to find favor with the fra ternity or society element, is to "go in" for some college activity, theatricals, class politics, athletics or high scholar ship, and by enthusiasm and success in her chosen line, prove her Independence . and ability. An important chapter in the college girl's book of etiquette might be called "The College Girl and Her Professor." Especially in a college where they are men professors many things may be said under this head. The girl who "fusses" her Instructors is disliked even more by them than by her fellow students. It Is a grave mistake for a girl to make a point to wait after class to discuss her . ; work with her instructor unless she has been requested-to do so. ' A great pitfall for the unwary fresh- , man lies in "crushes." If a freshman Is so fortunate as to meet the Incarnation of all her Ideals of feminine grace and j virtue, good form requires that she keep j the fact severely to herself. If her en- j thuslasm gets the better of her. If she j. sends her Idol violets and orchids, French j , bon-bons and opera tickets, she makes ; Welsh rarebits and fudge for her, mends I her clothes and darns her stockings and i tries to Imitate her mode of halrdreaslng, j gait and tone of voice, she Is apt to lose j the friendship she might otherwise gain, j An Important heading under college eti- i quette is "Dress." Two things only are all-Important, neatness and fitness. The i freshman whose hair always looks trim. : whose shoes always are well cared for. j who never wears a discarded afternoon j gown during college hours, nor a stuffy j woolen frock at dinner. Is put down as a ' thoroughbred and la on the right track ' to social success. It is a great mistake for a girl to In- dulge her Ideas of a "typical callege : get-up." The "Peter Tom," the Tarn , O'Shanter and sweater may do very well f for the campus of a oountry college, but when a girl la a city college appears In i the street In this attire she ls in danger ' of oalllng forth the rebuke of one of the wise seniors who has her alma mater's Interest at heart. For the athletic girl. , especially, there Is great temptation to ; discard the closely-fitting collar and belt ; and to go about in a costume that most girls outgrow at 14 or 15. The suitable ' dress for a college is the dress that is suitable for any girl of her age. con structed on as simple a plan as possi ble. In most college dormitories there 1 a great deal of borrowing and lending of clothing, Jewelry, shoes, text-books and money. College etiquette does not la boo this practice, but it does taboo the disagreements that It is apt to lead to. The tactful girl who makes It clear at the beginning that her supply of cloth ing, money and Jewelry Is sufficient only to satisfy her own demands loses none of the right kind of popularity and avoids the embarrassment of having to force the return of her rightful possessions. But the most Important chapter in the college girl's book of etiquette should be' on the art of being entertaining. When a group of college girls get together they want above all things to be enter tained. It Is never entertaining to hear a girl boast of her high scholarship or her numerous so-called "suitors." No one wants to hear about how hard an other girl Is working, how little she sleeps, how much the weather annoys her or how she "loathes" the dormitory fare. And above all things, guests do not want to hear about another girl's famllv. At a college spread, when a girl begins. "Well, my mother says," ; "When my sister went abroad." or "That reminds me of my fathers' aunt," she la generally Interrupted. The girl who can tell the pattest story. who can lead off In the latest college song; the girl who forgets her own af- ; fairs and can laugh heartily after five . or six hours of hard brain work Is the . girl who obeys the most Important rule of college etiquette. PRUDENCE STANDJSH. much to make the trunk look attractive when opened to view. If the lingerie is kept In one partition, a case the length, width and depth of that division will keep all the underwear neatly together, and when the trunk is to be unpacked the case can be simply taken out and the gar ments laid away intact la the drawer without being separated. This same style of case, made of bright , flowered organdie or of embroidered ; handkerchief linen, with a lace ruffle at the border of the top pieces where they are tied together, has been used a great , deal in packing delicate waist in a dress suitcase and has been found most satis factory in protecting delicate and perish- ' able gowns. Many girls in fact keep their best silk and lace bodices in these cases at all times. Milliners Multiplying. Millinery Trade Review. Millinery ranks fourteenth among the pursuits In which women are engaged as breadwinners. It Is a distinctly woman's occupation, 94.4 per cent of all milliners In the United States being women. Only two occupations have a larger pro portion of women: Dressmaking, with 97.5 per cent, and housekeeping, with 94.7 per cent. Seamstresses are 91.9 percent of them women. These four occupations were the only occupations in which women con stitute over nine-tenths of all persons em ployed. Almost nine-tenths of the women mil liners are native whites. In the large cities more' than half the milliners wore under 35 years of age. Probably when they exceed that age they marry and if they remain in business it is done in the husband's name and the census credits him with belng a merchant. In 1S90 there was one milliner to every 32;i women 15 years of age and over. In 1900 one to every 2S5. This change is thought to reflect the ad vance in the prosperity or the country, since millinery to a certain extent la a luxury, and In family budKets form an item that probably responds quickly to fluctuations in Income. If the manual training schools and technical institutions continue to run out milliners In the next ten years as they have in the last decade there will be one milliner to every K women, and in the not rar distant future. Camphor for Mice. Country people long ago discovered that lumps of camphor scattered through their pantries and cellars would drive off the pest of tiny red ants that sometimes, and without apparent cause, Infest places where food is placed. It Is now known that mice and rats also have an aversion to camphor and will not go where it is. A lump of it placed at the mouth of rat and mice holes, while waiting for the carpenter Is a sufficient deterrent. If one Is in the habit of placing table cloths in hampers to wait for washing day. a lump of camphor in a cheesecloth bag tied to the hamper will keep mice away, aud always be in Its place. i
