TIIE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX. PORTLAND, SEPTE3IBER 27, 1908. """"
III
f
Maddening Mixtures in Autumn Styles
TUB wotran shopping bound needs
to have her nerves steady and
her head clear. This is a 'season
to undo the one and unsettle the other.
It Is a season of bewildering periods,
hopelessly commingled with indescribable
results. And It is a season of dismaying
extravagance in quantities and prices.
Isually a woman has a fairly good Idea
of what the prevailing modes will be. This
season It takes the seventh daughter born
with a veil at that, to tell Just which
modes will survive the first onslaught of
feminine shoppers. Last season the prin
cess sown for house-wear and the pleated
skirt with cutaway coat led all other de
signs. Thia year there seems absolutely
no leader, but an awful struggle 'or su
premacy among a dozen modes, each of
which la equally trying to the needle of
' h lneranrienced home sewer. Even the
most successful modistes tremble before
this year's modes.
Suggestions of tho princess do remain.
but the waist line Is raised almost to the
bust, and unless this high girdle effect is
treated with Infinite care, the figure is
hopelessly shortened. Then Instead of the
panel and tucked or pleated effect In the
gores of the princess robe, you have ab
solutely no pleats, and perfectly fitted
skirts with a few draped effects, particU'
lurlr In the front of the bodice.
One thing bear In mind, the sheath skirt
as exploited by the dally press Is not
being accepted by any one except stage
managers who desire to secure startling
effects in the way of costuming. Neither
will well-dressed American women wear
the Dlreotoire gown generally. The sheath
gown Is simply a very snug-flttlng, one
piece robe, split up on the side to disclose
either the right limb enclosed In silk
tights or contrasting color or an extreme
Iv diaphanous under skirt of chiffon or
similar fabrics which might Just as well
be omitted so far as lending any re
spectability to the garment. No American
woman or mod kite Is taking this costume
seriously.
The Directolre costume, a shapeless yet
perfectly cut robe, is so tight that its
wearer has to edge along, not really walk.
It is all In one piece, with a very ehort
waist and a straight line smoothly fitted
over the hips. It gives the effect of being
narrower around the feet than at the
waist line. It is being worn by ultra
fashionable women in the privacy of their
home or at exclusive entertainments, but
w.-ll-bred women do not sport It In public
The Dlreotoire influence, however, is
making itself felt and this In combination
with certain classic or Greek lines that
are hard to attain. Unquestionably the
straight lines prevail; everything has a
slimpsy. sleazy look, that unless carefully
and artistically attained, is absolutely
dowdy, and all styles are calculated to
strike terror to the heart of the-stout wo
man. The fabrics are all clinging and very,
very simple. Broadcloth and other
cloths for house and street frocks are
soft as silk and not much thicker. All
the silks and satins are woven In very
light weights and crumple in the hand
like chiffon cloth. Plain supple silks
and satins are offered for costumes to
he worn for callln?. and even the woman
who has no carriage is using silk or
satin for her Autumn suit. A new cord
ed silk called cotele bengallne, not un
like an ottoman weave, Is very popu
lar for coat suits, the long shapeless
Dlrectolre or Louies coats. Chiffon moua
sellna, marqulesette and new Cashmere
silks, the latter looking like lovely old
Cashmere shawls, with a satin sheen, are
In great demand. Some bordered goods
are still shown, but In different designs
from thoee offered this Summer, the pat
tern now being la flowers of the most ex
quisite tones, so woven as to simulate
hand-painting. Practically no suitings
are shown except lor what are known as
strictly tailored costumes. Everything
for house wear and calling, receptions,
etc. la either In silk or with so much silk
combined with the wool mat the latter Is
Invisible.
The trimmings are beyond words, so
rarely beautiful, so perfect In tone and
handiwork. Net forms the foundation of
nearly ail the new trimmings, and this
is either braided with soft slue sou
tache or embroidered In padded stltch
ery. with a few beads. For combination
with white silks, satins, chiffons and
marquisettes, a charming trimming In
various widths shows a dot and Greek '
pattern combined, all In white. You
Treatment of
The tendency of the young woman
during vacation days la toward complexion-carelessness.
She has heard so
much of the efficacy of out-door life
and sunlight on her general health that
she forgets that sun and wind also
hold possibilities for ruining her good
looks, temporarily at least.
There Is nothing which will make .a
girl look so ungroomed and "blowzy"
as intemperate tanning. A good color,
the sort which comes with a healthful
outdoor Ufa, Is entirely different from
the extreme complexion-carelessness of
which the would-be Summer girl Is
guilty. I know of girls who deliberate
ly alternate plunges in the surf with
long rests on the unshaded sands for
the express purpose of securing a lob-
Chiffon Cloth and Tinbroldered Net
Banding.
S Iplflf
can get the same design in all the pale
and neutral colors. For combination
with a brown satin comes a net of gold
silk rather dull, embroidered In soft
mauve and mossy gray green, with
here and there a very few gold beads.
On an oyster-white net was an em
broidery of delicate pastel silks and
opalescent beads. This trimming comes
not only In banding, motifs and galoons,
but it can be had in complete sets,
forming boleros to be worn over Di
rectolre or Empire gowns, girdles, sashes.
HOUSE GOWN OP BLACK AM) WHITE MARQUISETTE.
etc Not a few tasseled ornaments are
offered, but little fringe is shown.
A marked feature of the Fall openings
has been the long sleeve, which modistes
are doing their best to force upon the
American women. Even some of the de
collette gowns, so far as shoulders are
concerned are accompanied by the regu
lation Bernhardt sleeve, crinkly, soft and
long enough to come clear down over the
knuckle.
The blouse shown in today's Illustra
tions gives a very fair Idea of the appli
cation of the trimming described above,
on a foundation of chiffon cloth over Mes
sallne. The odd little reveres are em
broidered to match the banding.
The calling costume was drawn from
a model In ottoman silk of a most beauti
ful shade of peacock green with Just a
touch of the same shade of green, a har
monious oyster-white and old-gold in the
embroidery on collar and cuffs. The skirt.
Post - Vacation Complexion Iills
ster-Iike tan. This causes talk on their
return to town but It also causes un
complimentary comment later on when
the social season opens and dainty
evening frocks make mottled, blistered
skins look the worse by violent con
trast. If you have abused your skin In this
fashion, try to undo the mischief as
soon as possible.
For general roughness and perhaps
a tendency to fine, minute white scales,
use water as hot as you can bear It,
with almond meal shaken into it. The
following formula gives a very sooth
ing meal:
Bitter almond meal 6 ounces
Orri root (powdered) 4 ounces
Wheat flour 4 ounces
White castile coap (powdered).. 1 ounce
Borax (powdered) 1 ounce
Oil of berssmot 2 drachms
Kxtract of musk 1 drachm
Oil of bitter almonds 10 drops
Mix the dry lngredlenta thoroughly,
then sift and add the perfumes. Sift a
second time and pour into a large,
wide-mouthed Jar. Have ready a
smaller box with a perforated top, and
from time to time fill this with the
meal and keep it on your washstand.
The powder may then be sifted into
your complexion brush or on your
washrag.
A very good lotion for whitening the
skin is this:
Tincture of bensoin H ounce
Tincture of vnnUln 2 drachms
Bargains Worth Seeking
This Is the season of the year when
the average shopper is apt to overtook
the bargain counter or square. She Is
eager to see the new things, not the
"left-overs." 8he Is desperately afraid
that he might buy something Just a
little passe. Later she win realize that
some of those very Summer left-overs
would have been most wise purchases.
To begin with watch the silk counter.
Do not turn your back upon a remnant
of flowered or figured Bummer silk of
a soft quality. The smartest of chiffon,
voile and marquesette frocks will be
made over flowered, figured and even
striped silks showing two or more col
ors. A lovely chiffon cloth robe recent
ly noted at an opening was of palest
with its high girdle, coming almost to the
bust line, was absolutely plain, but per
fectly fitted, and the coat had long points
on the sides, but was cut very short in
the back.
The house gown of black and white
messallne tells how the Btrlped fabrics
are employed as trimmings. It shows
also the high-cut skirt and the ubiquitous
vest of shirred chiffon and exquisitely
embroidered banding. This striped ma
terial In black and white -la very dashing
but the color combination in the strip
of embroidered net is most delicate, soft
pinks, blues and dead white.
The evening frock Bhows a tendency
toward classic drapery. The silk is trim
med with matching fringe around the
tunic, and the draped bodice is finished
at the back with long streamers of the
silk, trimmed fith fringe. The bodice
section or what was once called guimpe,
is made from embroidered net. perfectly
matching the shade of silk with Persian
tones In the embroidery.
A word of warning in making up all
Fall raiment. Acold the conventional
petticoat or drop skirt. Dressmakers
still stand out for taffetas, because It
has body, but get a supple taffetas, and
If you can Induce the lady of autocratic
habits to use it, select messallne of the
softest quality. Tour frock must not
be bouffant, but must give the effect of
no lining, no petticoat, to be truly smart.
MART DEAN.
Rosewater, triple 1 pints
Mix the two tinctures first and then
add the water very slowly to guard
against curdling. The result should be
a milky looking lotion. Bathe the face
at least twice a day with this, using
soft old linen or antiseptic gauze. This
lotion will reduce the burning sensation
of over-tanning.
Another milky emulsion which will
not only reduce Inflammation, but re
move the shine from an oily face is
this:
Tincture of benzoin 1 ounce
Tincture of musk .2- drachms
Tincture of ambergris 4 drachms
Rectified spirits -...5 ounces
Orange-flower water 1 pints
Mix the tinctures together, then the
spirits and finally add the orange
flower water. In mild cases of freckles,
this Is most efficacious.
Very often an ugly, scaly rash is the
penalty of over-indulgence In Summer
resort sweets. This is particularly an
noying wherever pressure of clothing
Is felt, like waist-bands, collars, etc.
If permitted to go on unchecked, these
rashes sometimes suppurate and become
quite painful. A soothing lotion Is as
follows:
Flder-flower water .' 7 ounces
Glvcerlne . 1 ounce
Borax H drachm
Apply at least twice dally with soft
linen or antiseptic gauze.
KATHERINB MORTON.
ecru over a flowered silk in delicate
blues, pinks and greyish green on a
white ground.
Odd little sleeveless Jackets will also
be worn about the house this Winter,
over net or lace robes, and for these
flowered. Persian or Cashmere silk
remnants are most desirable. Pompa
dour effects trimmed with black velvet
ribbon and Jet or rhlnestone ornaments
will be very smart over a white, cream
or mode colored house robe.
Look out for scraps of embroidered or
braided net. If It la slightly soiled and
therefore ridiculously cheap lucky you!
It can be cleaned at home with French
chalk or gasoline and will prove Just
the right touch on your net or silk
blouse.
Strips of heavily beaded net or bead
or pearl ornaments large enough to sim
ulate a huge clasp or barbaric ornament
best described as a long, narrow girdle
buckle will be invaluable. They will be
used on soft, short-waisted evening
gowns, stretched right across the bust,
like a huge clasp.
A strip of plain or fancy net in cream,
black or white Is a good bargain. Net
flounces are replacing silk ones on silk
petticoats.
A few little rhlnestone ornaments or
fancy buttons with flat shanks are a
good pick-up. likewise, for velvet ' rib
bon bands will be worn around the
throat. On these a touch of rhlnestone
trimming is most effective.
Don't despise three or four handsome
buttons tossed Into the remnant basket.
If they will combine In coloring with
your house frock or ptreet suit, they will
be useful. Three striking big buttons
on the front of a coat or to fasten tho
drapery o'f a blouse will give Just the
needed touch of distinction to the cos
tume. MARY DEAN.
SANDWICHES
Brown Bread Sandwiches For this
purpose use either Neuchatel or Phila
delphia cream cheese. If the former is
very hard, you must moisten It a trifle
with sweet milk, or, better still, cream.
Add Just a dash of paprika to give It
tang and a little salt. Finally, to each
cheese add half a cup of nut meats,
ground In your meat chopper. English
walnuts are best for this purpose. Al
monds are flat In flavor. Spread this
mixture on thin slices of brown bread,
brushed with melted butter.
e
Nut Salad Sandwiches. Grind Eng
lish walnuts or hickory nuts In your
meat grinder, mix with an equal
quantity of celery chopped very, very
fine, and add to this mixture mayon
naise, made with plenty of lemon Juice.
Have white bread cut thin, brush
lightly with melted butter, lay on a
crisp lettuce leaf, spread this with the
nut and celery mixture, lay the second
slice of bread upon it, and serve at
once.
Olive Sandwiches. Cut the meat off
the stones and chop the olives very
fine. Mix with mayonnaise dressing
and spread on unbuttered white bread,
cut very thin.
Tongue and Veal Sandwiches. Re
move from cold tongue and veal every
scrap of fat, gristle and skin. Grind
In your meat chopper, moisten Just a
trifle with soup stock and season high
ly with paprika and a mere dash of
nutmeg. Spread lightly on thin white
bread, and serve very cold. A half
warm meat sandwich Is not appetizing.
If you prefer a salad sandwich, add to
the ground tongue and veal a little
mayonnaise. Another very dainty
meat sandwich which must be served
crisp is made from white bread,
brushed lightly with butter, a crisp
nasturtium leaf or sprig of water
cress, and a sliver of highly seasoned
cold chicken, spread with a little
mayonnaise.
Suggestions for Laundress.
Every one cannot afford to send every
difficult piece to an expert laundress, who
sometimes charges as much to do up a
garment as It originally cost.
It is often necessary, for reasons of
economy, to do up most of one's things
at home. Sometimes a laundress Is
brought In to help. In other homes the
work Is done by the family.
And this is a season when the vaca
tionists have to struggle with the prob
lem of clean clothes and the laundry bill,
and it is a sturdy fight. .
Many dollars can be saved by knowing
how to d things one's self. For In
stance, here Is a good suggestion from
an expert laundress on things to avoid
when washing colored frocks:
Never use hot water. Always have
clean warm water. Never put bluing In
such frocks, as It alters the colors for a
time, if not forever.
Wash such frocks in a strong lather,
adding a tablespoonful of ox gall.
If the material is lawn or organdie or
swlss it Is good to put a tablespoonful of
gum arable water in with the starch.
Wring or squeeze the gown well, and
dry it as quickly as possible.
CALLING COSTUME OF PEACOCK GREEN OTTOMAN SILK.
The Etiquette of College Life
THE girl who enters her freshman
year at college faces a system of
etiquette as rigid as the rules of
class and lecture-room which are post
ed on the bulletin board. If she has
not been posted on college good form,
she learns by experience more or less
sad, and that Is why I am offering to
day a few suggestions for the girl at
the beginning of her college career.
First, a freshman must never make
any advances except to members of
EVENING GOWN OF LAFAYETTE MES SALINE.
her own class. Even if she happens to
know some upper-classman outside of
college she must not take it upon her
self te make the first step In continu
ing the friendship. In the college
where there are "fraternities" or simi
lar societies, the freshman must, step
very carefully. She must never, never,
under any circumstance, mention one
of these societies to a member of a
society, and if by any chance a mem
ber should mention her society, the
freshman must act as If nothing had
been said. In some colleges it is bad
taste for a freshman to pass the chap
ter houses of these societies excepting
in company of one of their members.
It is also in bad taste for a freshman
to allow her eyes to rest, more than
casually on the -pin of membership,
and many an unwary freshman has
been branded as too "fresh" who has
innocently remarked that Bhe liked
the pin that a certain girl was wear
ing. A freshman who is being "rushed."
or, as they say in the West, "spiked."
by a society is in great danger of what
Is known as "swelled head." and noth
ing is more detrimental than this for
'
ISP
chances of "making" the society she de
Blres. And the freshman who is not be
ing "rushed" and who Is not "in with"
the girls who are, must take great pains
not to do what Is known as "butting In."
Value of CarefulTrunkPacking
WHEN a girl is old enough to pay
visits by herself among her friends
she Is old enough to understand the im
portance of having her luggage smart and
her various trunks and bags neatly
packed and fitted. Not every girl can
have a maid at her beck and call to do all
the packing and see that all her garments
are carefully laid away, with all precau
tions taken against wrinkles, but there Is
no excuse ever for careless packing or
untidy, old-fashioned luggage. Economy
had best be practiced anywhere else than
here, for at a large house party the trunk
is bound to be more or less on view, and
It Is a mistake to forfeit the respect of
the maid who unpacks the trunk by a
heterogeneous mixing of underwear and
hats, waists, tennis racquet and boots.
New ribbons In old underwear will do
much to make the lingerie appear dainty
and sweet. Pretty cases of bright colored
silk and satin for the collars, ties, belts,
veils, etc., give evidence at once of an
orderly trend of mind and the desire to
have all the personal belongings as per
fect In their way as possible, and these
cases are all extremely easy to make out
of old scraps and odd lengths of silk and
ribbon. Then again gowns, hats and
waists which are carefully packed and
folded at the end as well as at the com
mencement of each visit will enable the
girl to appear well dressed at all times,
no matter how limited her outfit, whereas
if the clothes are thrown carelessly Into
their trays their pristine freshness will
soon vanish, not to be restored by any
amount of ironing or refreshing.
In packing hats, and especially the size
and shaped hats of today, with their un
usual amount of delicate and perishable
flower and ribbon trimming, it -will be
found an excellent plan to fasten the hat
securely in the tray by means of tape or
ribbon instead of simply stuffing the
empty corners with tissue paper to pre
vent the straw from becoming bent or
broken In slipping about. A piece of rib
bon or tape is tacked, pinned, or. If pos
sible, sewed Into the four sides of the
tray and then the other end of this tape
Is pinned nicely to the edges of the hat
and the four ends tied together in the
center. In this way it Is impossible for
the hat to budge from its position no
matter how roughly the trunk may be
handled. A hat trunk in which each hat
can be pinned to Its own rest Is, of course,
the best solution for safekeeping In trav
eling, but It Is not always convenient to
take the extra trunk, especially this year,
when the "Merry Widow" hat demands
very nearly a Saratoga for Itself alone.
Instead of using countless wads of tis
sue paper between gowns or waists, a
tray cover of lawn or dimity will do much
to simplify packing. These Covers are
made the length and width of the tray,
with top flaps, which are tied together
with ribbon over the gown which they
protect. Bordered with frills of lace or
embroidered batiste, and further adorned
with insertions of lace, these cases do
The best thing for such a Sirl to do. If
she wishes to find favor with the fra
ternity or society element, is to "go in"
for some college activity, theatricals,
class politics, athletics or high scholar
ship, and by enthusiasm and success in
her chosen line, prove her Independence .
and ability.
An important chapter in the college
girl's book of etiquette might be called
"The College Girl and Her Professor."
Especially in a college where they are
men professors many things may be said
under this head. The girl who "fusses"
her Instructors is disliked even more by
them than by her fellow students. It
Is a grave mistake for a girl to make a
point to wait after class to discuss her . ;
work with her instructor unless she has
been requested-to do so. '
A great pitfall for the unwary fresh- ,
man lies in "crushes." If a freshman Is
so fortunate as to meet the Incarnation
of all her Ideals of feminine grace and j
virtue, good form requires that she keep j
the fact severely to herself. If her en- j
thuslasm gets the better of her. If she j.
sends her Idol violets and orchids, French j ,
bon-bons and opera tickets, she makes ;
Welsh rarebits and fudge for her, mends I
her clothes and darns her stockings and i
tries to Imitate her mode of halrdreaslng, j
gait and tone of voice, she Is apt to lose j
the friendship she might otherwise gain, j
An Important heading under college eti- i
quette is "Dress." Two things only are
all-Important, neatness and fitness. The i
freshman whose hair always looks trim. :
whose shoes always are well cared for. j
who never wears a discarded afternoon j
gown during college hours, nor a stuffy j
woolen frock at dinner. Is put down as a '
thoroughbred and la on the right track '
to social success.
It is a great mistake for a girl to In-
dulge her Ideas of a "typical callege :
get-up." The "Peter Tom," the Tarn ,
O'Shanter and sweater may do very well f
for the campus of a oountry college, but
when a girl la a city college appears In i
the street In this attire she ls in danger '
of oalllng forth the rebuke of one of the
wise seniors who has her alma mater's
Interest at heart. For the athletic girl. ,
especially, there Is great temptation to ;
discard the closely-fitting collar and belt ;
and to go about in a costume that most
girls outgrow at 14 or 15. The suitable '
dress for a college is the dress that is
suitable for any girl of her age. con
structed on as simple a plan as possi
ble. In most college dormitories there 1 a
great deal of borrowing and lending of
clothing, Jewelry, shoes, text-books and
money. College etiquette does not la
boo this practice, but it does taboo the
disagreements that It is apt to lead to.
The tactful girl who makes It clear at
the beginning that her supply of cloth
ing, money and Jewelry Is sufficient only
to satisfy her own demands loses none
of the right kind of popularity and avoids
the embarrassment of having to force the
return of her rightful possessions.
But the most Important chapter in the
college girl's book of etiquette should be'
on the art of being entertaining. When
a group of college girls get together
they want above all things to be enter
tained. It Is never entertaining to hear
a girl boast of her high scholarship or
her numerous so-called "suitors." No
one wants to hear about how hard an
other girl Is working, how little she
sleeps, how much the weather annoys
her or how she "loathes" the dormitory
fare. And above all things, guests do
not want to hear about another girl's
famllv. At a college spread, when a
girl begins. "Well, my mother says," ;
"When my sister went abroad." or "That
reminds me of my fathers' aunt," she la
generally Interrupted.
The girl who can tell the pattest story.
who can lead off In the latest college
song; the girl who forgets her own af- ;
fairs and can laugh heartily after five .
or six hours of hard brain work Is the .
girl who obeys the most Important rule
of college etiquette.
PRUDENCE STANDJSH.
much to make the trunk look attractive
when opened to view. If the lingerie is
kept In one partition, a case the length,
width and depth of that division will keep
all the underwear neatly together, and
when the trunk is to be unpacked the
case can be simply taken out and the gar
ments laid away intact la the drawer
without being separated.
This same style of case, made of bright ,
flowered organdie or of embroidered ;
handkerchief linen, with a lace ruffle at
the border of the top pieces where they
are tied together, has been used a great ,
deal in packing delicate waist in a dress
suitcase and has been found most satis
factory in protecting delicate and perish- '
able gowns. Many girls in fact keep their
best silk and lace bodices in these cases
at all times.
Milliners Multiplying.
Millinery Trade Review.
Millinery ranks fourteenth among the
pursuits In which women are engaged as
breadwinners. It Is a distinctly woman's
occupation, 94.4 per cent of all milliners In
the United States being women.
Only two occupations have a larger pro
portion of women: Dressmaking, with 97.5
per cent, and housekeeping, with 94.7 per
cent. Seamstresses are 91.9 percent of
them women. These four occupations were
the only occupations in which women con
stitute over nine-tenths of all persons em
ployed. Almost nine-tenths of the women mil
liners are native whites. In the large
cities more' than half the milliners wore
under 35 years of age. Probably when
they exceed that age they marry and if
they remain in business it is done in the
husband's name and the census credits
him with belng a merchant. In 1S90 there
was one milliner to every 32;i women 15
years of age and over. In 1900 one to
every 2S5.
This change is thought to reflect the ad
vance in the prosperity or the country,
since millinery to a certain extent la a
luxury, and In family budKets form an
item that probably responds quickly to
fluctuations in Income. If the manual
training schools and technical institutions
continue to run out milliners In the next
ten years as they have in the last decade
there will be one milliner to every K
women, and in the not rar distant future.
Camphor for Mice.
Country people long ago discovered that
lumps of camphor scattered through their
pantries and cellars would drive off the
pest of tiny red ants that sometimes, and
without apparent cause, Infest places
where food is placed. It Is now known
that mice and rats also have an aversion
to camphor and will not go where it is.
A lump of it placed at the mouth of rat
and mice holes, while waiting for the
carpenter Is a sufficient deterrent. If one
Is in the habit of placing table cloths in
hampers to wait for washing day. a lump
of camphor in a cheesecloth bag tied to
the hamper will keep mice away, aud
always be in Its place. i